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amethystbliss posted:Would love some advice on how to handle this tile in the bathroom. The other day we heard a random crash and turns out a few of the ceiling tiles in the shower had fallen off. A few more were loose so we scored them and took them down (should probably do the rest this weekend). Luckily the only damage was a small chip at the top of the shower door. I can't tell if it's the angle or not, but is the ceiling above the shower straight? Like...it's not warping downward, or sagging, right? Any ceiling flex could also cause tiles to fall. Either way, yeah moisture + failure to backbutter would also do that.
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Jul 18, 2022 05:34
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I'm getting a mini-split system installed today. All of my rooms have a ceiling fan wired to 2 outlets, 1 each for fan/light. I think the mini-splits would eliminate the need for ceiling fans, if I take these down is there anything interesting to do with a fixture already wired for 2 switches?
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Jul 18, 2022 19:03
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Like, BESIDES a spinning disco ball or ...?
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Jul 18, 2022 19:11
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phosdex posted:I'm getting a mini-split system installed today. All of my rooms have a ceiling fan wired to 2 outlets, 1 each for fan/light. I think the mini-splits would eliminate the need for ceiling fans, if I take these down is there anything interesting to do with a fixture already wired for 2 switches? Keep the fans.
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Jul 18, 2022 19:35
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Is there any reason why that shower would NEED tiles that high up and on the ceiling? I have a very similar set up and the tile stops maybe half a foot above the shower head.
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Jul 18, 2022 19:47
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Tiles up to the ceiling look nicer imo. Tiles on the ceiling are a bit much unless you have some architecture magazine level place
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Jul 18, 2022 20:06
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phosdex posted:I'm getting a mini-split system installed today. All of my rooms have a ceiling fan wired to 2 outlets, 1 each for fan/light. I think the mini-splits would eliminate the need for ceiling fans, if I take these down is there anything interesting to do with a fixture already wired for 2 switches? Definitely keep the fans. You'll use them when you don't have the splits going, and they will supplement the fans on the units when they are. If you go at least a year (get through every season) and still don't want the fans, then take them down.
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Jul 18, 2022 20:23
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We pretty much never turn the fans in our house off, except briefly to switch the rotation when it gets cold out, then back again in the spring
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Jul 18, 2022 20:31
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I can see keeping the fans in the living room and kitchen, since they are larger rooms. But the bedroom ones I feel like the mini-split in just fan mode would be ok. But yes, this isn't a thing I'll be doing this weekend, just a longer term plan.Hadlock posted:We pretty much never turn the fans in our house off, except briefly to switch the rotation when it gets cold out, then back again in the spring Ok, this is the first house I've lived in with more than 1 ceiling fan. Leaving a fan on in a room you're not in doesn't seem like it's really doing anything?
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Jul 18, 2022 20:33
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brugroffil posted:Tiles on the ceiling are a bit much unless you have some architecture magazine level place I don't have an architectural mag place, but I do have a steam shower. And you absolutely need to waterproof the ceiling for the shower enclosure if you're doing that.
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Jul 18, 2022 20:38
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phosdex posted:I can see keeping the fans in the living room and kitchen, since they are larger rooms. But the bedroom ones I feel like the mini-split in just fan mode would be ok. But yes, this isn't a thing I'll be doing this weekend, just a longer term plan. Yeah your questions kind of read like someone who just moved from the rust belt to a more temperate climate The fans use hardly any electricity at all, especially at the lower settings so we just leave them on 24/7 The fans do a great job of mixing the air so the whole house is a more consistent temperature, and for example, my desk is over by the wall/window but because the fan is on its not super hot. Without the fan the room becomes unevenly hot, and the air can feel stale etc In our previous house we didn't have ceiling fans, so we had a vornado floor fan in each room set on low, improved comfort by about 100% especially on hot days In the winter you switch the rotation in reverse and it helps draw up the cold air from the center of the room and pushes the warm air down the walls to keep the air temperature homogeneous, rather than 85F air at the ceiling and 65F air down by the floor and couch Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jul 18, 2022 |
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Jul 18, 2022 20:51
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Eh, ceiling fans in an empty room don't do much. They mix the air inside the room, sure, but I wouldn't really expect that to affect the rest of the house? Especially without a forced air system that's constantly moving air around the house. Fans in an occupied room, however, are incredibly useful with or without other HVAC. I would go out of my way to install fans in every bedroom and living space. They can massively improve comfort of people inside the room without having to screw with the HVAC temperature setting. IMO don't get rid of the fan willfully. Maybe if the light fixture needs replacing you could just install a light-only fixture, but don't buy a new light fixture to explicitly get rid of the fan.
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Jul 18, 2022 21:04
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Is there actually any cool fixture or something that could use having the 2 switches?
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Jul 18, 2022 21:48
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phosdex posted:Is there actually any cool fixture or something that could use having the 2 switches? With some creative rewiring, sure. Off the shelf? Probably not. Depending on the ceiling construction (an open attic makes adding lights easy, compared to swapping a single to a double gang switch box and feeding power up which isn't much harder) I'd use that added hot wire to add accent lighting somewhere in the room, like a pair of spots on each side of the bed, or focus on a wall with art on it.
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Jul 18, 2022 22:07
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So disco ball it is. One to spin, one to light it up.
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Jul 18, 2022 23:31
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phosdex posted:So disco ball it is. One to spin, one to light it up. 
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Jul 18, 2022 23:39
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Yay water issues! If you live near NYC You’re aware of the 2 inches of rain in like 1.5 hours we got today. And of course, I have an old sump pump that I planned to replace within the next few months, and it seems to have died. Specifically the plug for the float I think is what died?   If I plug in just the back plug the pump comes on. But my understanding is letting the pump run dry is very bad no good. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get this working cheaply or easily while I find someone to replace the whole thing?
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Jul 19, 2022 05:10
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That’s a good and easy DIY project, replacing a sump pump is pretty straightforward. Only tool you’ll need is something to cut the pipe. Union sleeve to put it back together, an end that will screw into your new sump pump outlet, and some pipe dope/glue.
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Jul 19, 2022 11:08
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Pretty sure you can just get a new float switch at any LowesDepot? If the pump still runs, no need to replace the whole thing. But yes, do NOT let the pump run dry. Stand by and run it yourself if you have to and unplug when it's low, but don't just walk away.
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Jul 19, 2022 12:36
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DaveSauce posted:Pretty sure you can just get a new float switch at any LowesDepot? If the pump still runs, no need to replace the whole thing. This. If you watch it refill for a few cycles you can use a plug cycle timer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/BN-LINK-Period-Repeat-Intermittent-Interval/dp/B0184CG9K0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cycle+timer&qid=1658231256&sr=8-6 Harbor freight sells sump pumps of various ratings. I recall when my septic pump went out Home Depot did too. (I did not replace my own septic pump, the price to not get covered in poo was like $500 and that was worth it IMO)
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Jul 19, 2022 12:47
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Is there a way to calculate rough energy use and cost between hot water heaters? We have a 15 year old 50 gallon tank style that I am trying to replace before it dies. I've got a quote to replace it with a new 50 gallon water heater with a direct vent and leak alarm for $3200. Or I Navien tankless model for $7900. The old style unit has a 10 year warranty and could probably go 15 years max, while the tankless has 15 year warranty and should probably go 20 years. Rough ballpark numbers from the vendor show an operating cost of $320 a year for the old style at $1.09 a therm (whatever that is) vs $195 a year for the tankless. Based on those numbers I'd actually come out ahead with the older style since I'd only be saving $125 a year and would only presumably get another 10 years out of it. But I'm worried my math is overly simplistic or that I am underestimating energy costs and future energy costs.
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Jul 19, 2022 15:46
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Is there a way to calculate rough energy use and cost between hot water heaters? Do you not live in a country with something like Energy Star? That big yellow sticker does what you're asking. I think the number on the side is for a family of 4 with $10c/kWh, per month US Mexico and Costa Rica offer it, it's probably available elsewhere
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Jul 19, 2022 16:01
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The tank doesnt have an energy star rating so trying to calculate this all based off of vendor spec sheets unfortunately. The math looks like a tankless is more expensive in the long run though based on what I can find, so likely an old school tank model is what ill go with despite the lack of efficiency. Maybe in 20 years ill get a new boiler/water heater combo unit or something.
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Jul 19, 2022 16:15
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devmd01 posted:That’s a good and easy DIY project, replacing a sump pump is pretty straightforward. Only tool you’ll need is something to cut the pipe. Union sleeve to put it back together, an end that will screw into your new sump pump outlet, and some pipe dope/glue. Thanks, but I'm going to contract this out. The way my house is set up all of the rain runoff purposely drains into the pump (NYC, so everything is concrete). If it doesn't work, I will absolutely get water in the basement. I also want a battery backup. DaveSauce posted:Pretty sure you can just get a new float switch at any LowesDepot? If the pump still runs, no need to replace the whole thing. I saw that as an option, and I may just go do this depending on lead time to getting a replacement installed. They seem to be like $30.
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Jul 19, 2022 16:15
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Anyone have any ideas on how to track down mildew smell in a bathroom? We've cleaned all the surfaces, scrubbed the walls and I even installed a vent fan. After all that it only takes one shower to make the place stink after a few hours unless I leave the fan going full blast. The fan does have a rather long run so I might need to increase the CPM but its already loud as hell. I guess better question is who would I call to investigate and fix. General Contractor? Mold specialist?
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Jul 19, 2022 17:14
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Have you treated the drains?
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Jul 19, 2022 17:53
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Which of you fuckers dumped all your humidity in the east bay this year? Holy balls, it's so humid compared to last summer. Every door is sticking now.
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Jul 19, 2022 18:46
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BaseballPCHiker posted:The tank doesnt have an energy star rating so trying to calculate this all based off of vendor spec sheets unfortunately. Don't buy tankless unless you want to buy tankless. They cost more to buy, install, and sometimes operate depending on your usage patterns. NEVER buy an electric tankless. Also what sort of fly by night water heater doesn't have an energy rating tag? I thought you were in the USA? What's the make/model? You 99.9% want to replace like for like tank for tank and Get Three Bids. Unless you're moving to a heat pump model you're potentially getting taken for a ride at $3200 unless there are serious code upgrades to be done. A water heater replacement is the sort of thing you can use a LowesDepot Lowest Bid Plumber for if there is no other upgrade needed and you watch them. (Make sure their copper is wiped down after sweating, they shine it before sweating it.) If you need anything "creative" done then hire a plumber yourself.
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Jul 19, 2022 19:24
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Arkanomen posted:Anyone have any ideas on how to track down mildew smell in a bathroom? We've cleaned all the surfaces, scrubbed the walls and I even installed a vent fan. After all that it only takes one shower to make the place stink after a few hours unless I leave the fan going full blast. The fan does have a rather long run so I might need to increase the CPM but its already loud as hell. I guess better question is who would I call to investigate and fix. General Contractor? Mold specialist? What kind of condition is your tub/shower surround? Is it tile? If so, what is the grout like? What are the corners like (where it should be caulked)? How about where it meets other walls/the floor? It's hard to give any real advice without an idea of condition and preferably pictures. Bathrooms that a lot of people think are "okay" still are really well past their useful service life and need to be ripped out. How old is your house? Has the bathroom been renoed? If so when and to what extent?
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Jul 19, 2022 22:05
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Motronic posted:What kind of condition is your tub/shower surround? Is it tile? If so, what is the grout like? What are the corners like (where it should be caulked)? How about where it meets other walls/the floor? Thanks for the possible leads. Built in 1996, its one of those solid plastic all-in-one inserts. The grout needs to get replaced but its only present around the upper edge and the water doesn't really splash up there. Looking now, there is some black gunk around the doors so its time to bleach it again but its not a lot. I replaced the floor (laminate for laminate plant) a year ago and there wasn't any water intrusion or dry rot on the subfloor. I caulked everywhere and then put one of those peel-and-stick "caulk tape" over it to double layer. I also had to recaulk down the metal grate in the middle. I didn't see any leaks there either. Think I'll go and redo all that and bleach it all this weekend.
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Jul 19, 2022 22:39
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Bleach is not an effective mold remediation product on semi-porous or porous surfaces. Bleach kills mold on contact but does not soak in well and it neutralizes in hours. Try Concrobium.
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Jul 19, 2022 22:43
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Motronic posted:I don't have an architectural mag place, but I do have a steam shower. And you absolutely need to waterproof the ceiling for the shower enclosure if you're doing that. Is the steam shower worth it?
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Jul 20, 2022 01:05
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Is there a way to calculate rough energy use and cost between hot water heaters? Ask whoever is installing the tanked unit if there's a warranty extension available. Some vendors offer one (it's essentially a second anode and a sticker). Stay current on replacing the anode and flushing the tank, and you'll definitely get a longer life out of it. You can get a $20 leak alarm from anywhere and it'll do the same thing.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:22
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Arkanomen posted:Built in 1996 In most cases this is "gut to the studs reno" time unfortunately. DkHelmet posted:Is the steam shower worth it? Oh my god yes.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:23
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We want to switch away from the combo washer-dryer that came with the house. (Washer and dryer mounted above one another as a single appliance. You see them a lot in apartments.) We need a water-efficient washer because we're on a well and a problematic septic system. We need stackable because we have very little space. Consumer Reports thinks LG front-loading washers are very water-efficient, very reliable, and work well. Is there stuff I need to know about LG?
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Jul 20, 2022 01:24
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We want to switch away from the combo washer-dryer that came with the house. (Washer and dryer mounted above one another as a single appliance. You see them a lot in apartments.) We need a water-efficient washer because we're on a well and a problematic septic system. We need stackable because we have very little space. Consumer Reports thinks LG front-loading washers are very water-efficient, very reliable, and work well. Is there stuff I need to know about LG? They are nearly the same same as that hateful apartment all in one format, you absolutely do want to make sure you get the stacking kit so they are properly and securely connected, you probably want water hammer arrestors on the hot and cold feeds to the washer (the valves SLAM open and shut - this is the kind of thing I've used: https://www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/arresters-and-trap-primers/arresters/minirester?template=P3Brochures). BUT, they're overcomplicated pieces of crap that are more expensive to maintain when they break. They are not more expensive than the alrernative of the beating something like a speedqueen will take on your well and septic, so run with it. They will probably be fine.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:52
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Motronic posted:In most cases this is "gut to the studs reno" time unfortunately. Good thing mine was built in 1997.  But seriously I’ve not found any instances of lovely work, it probably helps that every single house in this neighborhood was custom. You might find a couple that are really similar if you paid attention walking around but every single house is unique.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:58
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devmd01 posted:Good thing mine was built in 1997. You likely know more than me, and definitely do about your place, but it’s funny because our inspector said the custom home builds are where the crazy stuff comes out in his reports. He said the crews that focus on building homes for the national home companies aren’t perfect, but the areas of concern are fairly consistent across all inspections and the issues are mediocre/poor quality and not major safety flags. Meanwhile custom builds are done by unknown and inexperienced crews because the buyers are trying to save on labor. Could be the inspector was trying to make me feel better about buying a starter home and not a $1M mansion with a garage apartment and water slide in the fancy neighborhood, though 
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Jul 20, 2022 02:44
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Look, any of you could have gotten the best tile/bathroom guy who was given all the budget he wanted to make the best water tight bathroom. But in the 90s and early 2000s that was not a nice mud bed shower, etc like those pink tiled bathrooms that are still around and fine form the 50s and 60s. It was new materials that were intended to be less expensive and mostly save labor that we have largely moved past now to the 5th to 10th generation of those same types of materials. I haven't seen many bathrooms from the late 80s and early 90s that are still serviceable, regardless of development of custom built home. It's a thing of the times and the materials/methods available. (not counting guest bathrooms and others that aren't used on a regular basis......because this is all about water/steam/humidity destroying things) I'm afraid even doing out "best" right now that poo poo like redguard and kerdi may not last as well as those 50s high labor/high material bathrooms.
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Jul 20, 2022 02:49
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Motronic posted:
C'mon, come right out & say it: With few exceptions, developers have been using garbage & building garbage since the mid-70's. It's really stark after 35-years of inspecting structures built from 1740 to this year. Arkanomen posted:... The grout needs to get replaced...Looking now, there is some black gunk around the doors so its time to bleach it again but its not a lot. I Caulk has a nasty tendency to look fine even while & after its adhesion fails, so when you see black crap on caulk or grout, it's not on the grout, it's in it, and most importantly, behind it...so, if you're getting black grout or caulk, it has to all be torn out & re-done. For the same reason, do not use grout tape or other 'labor-saving' seal tapes. They trap all kinds of crap. Practice laying caulk until you get good at it, or hire in someone that can. Someone up-thread mentioned cleaning out your drains & traps. Try that too. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jul 20, 2022 |
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Jul 20, 2022 05:03
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