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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



FEH! DP with bonus shameful snipe. FEH.

Have a photo of me inspecting a rowhome in Elfreth's Alley a few years ago.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jul 20, 2022

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

C'mon, come right out & say it: With few exceptions, developers have been using garbage & building garbage since the mid-70's. It's really stark after 35-years of inspecting structures built from 1740 to this year.

This is unfortunately true, and makes people really mad (because they don't want to hear that they bought junk).

I currently own the newest home I've ever owned and it was built right around my absolute cutoff: 1968. Right before all of the engineered materials craze took off (at least for custom homes - it was already happening in levittowns, etc). I'm shuddering thinking about 1970s particle board subfloors and what it sounds like to walk on them.

an iksar marauder
May 6, 2022

An iksar marauder glowers at you dubiously -- looks like quite a gamble.
Aw, so my 1988 apartment is play doh garbage, shucks

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I very briefly lived in a lovely 3/2 house in the peak building boom part of Frisco, Texas (also fastest growing city in America circa 2002 by some metric) and the sheetrock felt like 4mm hardboard, walls shook when you opened/closed the doors, I think the house was six years old and at least three major plumbing devices had failed by the time I moved out, including a toilet valve that flooded the house. Everything weighed about half as much as it should have

I have not lived in a more "disposable by design" before or since, and I've spent a fair amount of time in questionable accomodations outside of the US, really impressed they got that house built inspected and approved. One good gust is going to come along one day and knock down the whole neighborhood

The schools there are amazing though

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Painting baseboards and trim white-How many coats of primer would you recommend?



We did one room with two coats of primer because you could still see the wood a bit after the first coat and one coat of semi-gloss to finish. Any reason for two coats of primer or would we be ok with just one?

Here’s how it looked after a coat of primer:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


nwin posted:

Painting baseboards and trim white-How many coats of primer would you recommend?



We did one room with two coats of primer because you could still see the wood a bit after the first coat and one coat of semi-gloss to finish. Any reason for two coats of primer or would we be ok with just one?

Here’s how it looked after a coat of primer:


You should do 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. Paint needs 2 coats to have the correct color.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

nwin posted:

Painting baseboards and trim white-How many coats of primer would you recommend?



We did one room with two coats of primer because you could still see the wood a bit after the first coat and one coat of semi-gloss to finish. Any reason for two coats of primer or would we be ok with just one?

Here’s how it looked after a coat of primer:



The correct number of coats for that gorgeous wood trim is zero, IMHO

gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)

nwin posted:

Painting baseboards and trim white-How many coats of primer would you recommend?



We did one room with two coats of primer because you could still see the wood a bit after the first coat and one coat of semi-gloss to finish. Any reason for two coats of primer or would we be ok with just one?

Here’s how it looked after a coat of primer:


Zero.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Right guys I get it. Leave it as wood. I lost that battle already so 1 coat of primer and 2 coats of paint it is.

Thank you!

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
Well since you already started the baseboards - it would probably still look good if you just left the casings/doors/etc as is, especially since there doesn't appear to be matching wood crown molding/chair rails.

If you are doing everything yourself, it's going to take forever...just pay painters to come in and spray it with lacquer. :newlol:

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Are the doors wood tone as well? Are you painting those?

This is just one of those things that is going to more or less be undoable, and given that blue carpet there are other ways to make the room look good.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Next stop, painting your maintenance free, red brick exterior home white

:cheerdoge:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

Next stop, painting your maintenance free, red brick exterior home white

:cheerdoge:

Gotta paint the brick fireplace too.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Motronic posted:

Gotta paint the brick fireplace too.

No you gotta cover that up with shittily painted trim, like my POs did :psyduck:

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

Hadlock posted:

Next stop, painting your maintenance free, red brick exterior home white

:cheerdoge:

Some dumb motherfuckers around the corner from us did this. Every single house in this neighborhood is brick, and you’re supposed to get rubber stamp approval from the board for any color changes. Not worth doing anything though, what are we gonna do, force them to remove it?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yes? Paint stripper and media blasters exist. If they have to they can grind off the top eighth inch of the brick. gently caress it.

(Actually it's total bullshit that some board or anyone else should have a say in what color your house is, ugh. But the brick-painters should get lots of angry glares and passive-aggressive comments at the annual block party!)

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Some trade-tube YouTuber moved in a neighborhood over from me into a beautiful tan brick house from the 40s. A PO did their due diligence when adding an addition and the brick matches almost perfectly. You almost can't tell, and certainly not from the street or anything.

So of course this guy is saying he's going to paint the whole thing because his wife can see the difference. :cripes:

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

The Dave posted:

Are the doors wood tone as well? Are you painting those?

This is just one of those things that is going to more or less be undoable, and given that blue carpet there are other ways to make the room look good.

The blue carpet is leaving for a beige/tan.

The doors are wood tone as well. Not sure if we’re leaving those as-is or not. They’re solid doors I’ve been told compared to hollow ones.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

nwin posted:

The blue carpet is leaving for a beige/tan.

The doors are wood tone as well. Not sure if we’re leaving those as-is or not. They’re solid doors I’ve been told compared to hollow ones.



You need to not lose this battle.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

You need to not lose this battle.

Also, and sorry to make this personal, but your wife has bad opinions

You can probably sell those doors for a pretty penny, somebody obviously paid top dollar for solid, really clear (no knots) top quality wood, it would be difficult to find doors that nice today

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


nwin posted:

The blue carpet is leaving for a beige/tan.

The doors are wood tone as well. Not sure if we’re leaving those as-is or not. They’re solid doors I’ve been told compared to hollow ones.


These are basic 70s/80s solid pine or fir doors. The grain is going all over the place with no effort to match anything. They're like 7 different colors and definitely look a bit dated. You're not painting some precious 150yr old heart pine or anything. Do whatever you want with them. They're definitely much better quality than modern hollow core doors.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

These are basic 70s/80s solid pine or fir doors. The grain is going all over the place with no effort to match anything. They're like 7 different colors and definitely look a bit dated. You're not painting some precious 150yr old heart pine or anything. Do whatever you want with them. They're definitely much better quality than modern hollow core doors.

Thank you! And yeah, I’m glad they aren’t hollow but I’m not amped about the random mismatch.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

These are basic 70s/80s solid pine or fir doors. The grain is going all over the place with no effort to match anything. They're like 7 different colors and definitely look a bit dated. You're not painting some precious 150yr old heart pine or anything. Do whatever you want with them. They're definitely much better quality than modern hollow core doors.

Agreed. The trim looks like inexpensive wood trim as well and didn't strike me as anything special.

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
Yeah they're not precious heirlooms or anything, but not-professionally-painted white doors and trim aren't going to look any better, they're going to "stick" in the frame, and are now committed to a life of being repainted every few years. I just don't see the benefit, unless it's really important to the home's color scheme

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

devmd01 posted:

Some dumb motherfuckers around the corner from us did this. Every single house in this neighborhood is brick, and you’re supposed to get rubber stamp approval from the board for any color changes. Not worth doing anything though, what are we gonna do, force them to remove it?

Force the issue to dissolve the board. gently caress that board. When done paint your brick vibrant pink.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015
Probation
Can't post for 44 hours!
Buy good trim/door paint and it'll look good. I've had good results with sprayers and foam rollers.

e: always buy good paint, don't cheap out.

brugroffil fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jul 21, 2022

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005
I think you should do faux-granite accent spray on all the trim and really knock that look out of the ballpark.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Yeah they're not precious heirlooms or anything, but not-professionally-painted white doors and trim aren't going to look any better, they're going to "stick" in the frame, and are now committed to a life of being repainted every few years. I just don't see the benefit, unless it's really important to the home's color scheme

Haha what?

Pull the doors and paint them loose and let them cure. Don't use garbage paint.

I literally just did this for 6 doors 6 months ago and no sticking. Paint looks great. Light brush marks as Sherwin intended.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

H110Hawk posted:

Force the issue to dissolve the board. gently caress that board. When done paint your brick vibrant pink.

I have considered it if only to get off the board, nobody wants to run. Hell I could probably make a case for dissolution that we are violating bylaws since we haven’t had an election or annual meeting in over two years.

We really, generally don’t give a gently caress, the proscriptive list of things is very, very short, most importantly a “home must be owner-occupied” clause…gently caress American homes for rent, they have something like 30% of the properties in the division behind ours and it’s obvious which ones they are.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
As someone who lives in a mid century house where the PO painted the focal point brick fireplace, and fir beams, I'm able to see my neighbors identical house with original finishes and it makes my hate grow stronger every day for people who unnecessarily paint brick.

Such an easy thing to do and so loving difficult to get it back. There are so many other options people have to change up how things look before nuking the brick.

Rasputin on the Ritz
Jun 24, 2010
Come let's mix where Rockefellers
walk with sticks or um-ber-ellas
in their mitts

brugroffil posted:

Buy good trim/door paint and it'll look good. I've had good results with sprayers and foam rollers.

e: always buy good paint, don't cheap out.

So what is the right paint for interior and exterior doors? Because our PO sure as hell didn't use any of the right options.

Front door is some kind of cheap latex that is coming off all over the place. I'm like 99% sure the weekend before they listed it, because if it had been on for longer than we've lived here it would have looked like hell for the showing.

I'm pretty sure the side door is the same rental-grade white interior paint that's on all the walls. The poo poo will quite literally scrub off the door with a damp sponge.

A bathroom door has the thinnest, shittiest paint imaginable and I can only assume they repurposed a child's acrylic paint set for it. It's white, but is doing absolutely zero good at covering the previous color (salmon).

All in all just annoyances. It is a house that was single owner from the late 50s until the 10s when they died, and then a rental for a few years while the kids fought over how to split the estate. Lots and lots of maintenance deferred by elderly people and then kicked down the road with rental grade temporary fixes. We've taken care of the major poo poo (water heater, electrical panel) and started in on the dumb minor poo poo like a fence that hadn't been painted in a decade and these doors.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

As far as the "correct" paint that depends on what you're painting over. Older homes often have oil based paint on trim and doors. If that's the case you need to use oil based paint or put a compatible midcoat/primer on to allow latex to stick (I use oil based Killz for that). It's possible they put latex paint over oil and that's something that doesn't work even if you clean/prep things properly.

I'd be less concerned with the paint and most concerned that there was absolutely no prep done/latex over oil, so it all needs to be taken off and prepped properly or absolutely no paint you can buy will stick to it.

Most of painting and it's success is about the prep work.

The paint that's just rubbing off is probably very cheap ceiling white or primer. You want some amount of gloss for doors/trim or they will do that and get filthy and probably stay filthy.

Poopelyse
Jan 22, 2011

by Fluffdaddy

Rasputin on the Ritz posted:

So what is the right paint for interior and exterior doors? Because our PO sure as hell didn't use any of the right options.

Front door is some kind of cheap latex that is coming off all over the place. I'm like 99% sure the weekend before they listed it, because if it had been on for longer than we've lived here it would have looked like hell for the showing.

I'm pretty sure the side door is the same rental-grade white interior paint that's on all the walls. The poo poo will quite literally scrub off the door with a damp sponge.

A bathroom door has the thinnest, shittiest paint imaginable and I can only assume they repurposed a child's acrylic paint set for it. It's white, but is doing absolutely zero good at covering the previous color (salmon).

All in all just annoyances. It is a house that was single owner from the late 50s until the 10s when they died, and then a rental for a few years while the kids fought over how to split the estate. Lots and lots of maintenance deferred by elderly people and then kicked down the road with rental grade temporary fixes. We've taken care of the major poo poo (water heater, electrical panel) and started in on the dumb minor poo poo like a fence that hadn't been painted in a decade and these doors.

did we buy the same house? my house is the exact same deal - original owner from the 50s died a few years ago, his son rented it out for a few years, and then sold to us. absolutely everything is painted over. pretty sure if he could, he would've painted over all the windows. absolute poo poo tier landlord i'm sure. at least it seems the original owner actually cared about the house. not as much deferred maintenance as you it sounds.

Rasputin on the Ritz
Jun 24, 2010
Come let's mix where Rockefellers
walk with sticks or um-ber-ellas
in their mitts

Poopelyse posted:

did we buy the same house? my house is the exact same deal - original owner from the 50s died a few years ago, his son rented it out for a few years, and then sold to us. absolutely everything is painted over. pretty sure if he could, he would've painted over all the windows. absolute poo poo tier landlord i'm sure. at least it seems the original owner actually cared about the house. not as much deferred maintenance as you it sounds.

Oh the deferred maintenance is just minor poo poo that someone who's 80 doesn't want to deal with and can kick the can on until they're dead. poo poo like small bits of damaged siding, an electrical panel that worked but was right at end of life, bathroom poo poo that needed to be re-caulked and re-grouted, and general gutter neglect. The kind of crap that someone in their 30s or 40s can bang out in a month's worth of weekends but an elderly person doesn't want to gently caress with. They took really good care of the house, and the old guy was apparently pretty handy.

Honestly the worst of the problems are all poo poo that the kids obviously did to spruce it up for renters. Tons of rental grade flooring that's going to get replaced, obvious home depot bathroom renovations, etc.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Rasputin on the Ritz posted:

So what is the right paint for interior and exterior doors? Because our PO sure as hell didn't use any of the right options.


As Motronic said, prep is important. Something that the topcoat can bind to, I also like Kilz or Zinsler oil based for that application.

I like Sherwin and I used Duration in a semi gloss. Given another shot on it I would have gotten Emerald Trim Enamel though.

Soylent Majority
Jul 13, 2020

Dune 2: Chicks At The Same Time
Anyone have opinions about this sort of Pergola Lego system? https://tojagrid.com/collections/brackets-6-x-6

Mrs Majority is gunning to diy a pergola, wants a "modern look", and found these which seem straightforward enough to use, but i've seen mixed reviews on the quality of the metalwork - big rear end booger welds on the inside requiring a bunch of working down the ends of the 6x6s in one case. Is there something better I should be looking at to gin up a simple say 10x10ish pergola? Also looking for something to create some shade/give a structure for some wisteria to grow on, so I'm thinkng some sort of like this louvered look:


not sure how the gently caress i'd notch the crossbeams all together like that tho

Also these legos have a base that looks like you'd just bolt into a concrete footing - is this really a stable/durable way to secure something like this? I've always sunk posts into concrete but if its just as good I think she's leaning towards the aesthetic:

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
My house was owned by the same family since 1945, until we bought it last year. The original purchaser's grandson was the last of the family to live in it, and then it was rented for 7 years... to us! And then they sold it to us! All told I think we've gotten pretty lucky, the hardwood floors on the main floor were refinished in the near past, as well as most of the woodwork in the house (we have a spare door in the garage that wasn't refinished and I can see the difference). Ironically there was a bathroom reno, and they pained the existing trim white, and painted one side of the original wood door white, which overall I prefer aesthetically, because I can't envision the color of the trim in the rest of the house working in a bathroom. A white and blue bathroom works much better for me than a white and blue and golden oak bathroom.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Soylent Majority posted:

Anyone have opinions about this sort of Pergola Lego system? https://tojagrid.com/collections/brackets-6-x-6

Mrs Majority is gunning to diy a pergola, wants a "modern look", and found these which seem straightforward enough to use, but i've seen mixed reviews on the quality of the metalwork - big rear end booger welds on the inside requiring a bunch of working down the ends of the 6x6s in one case. Is there something better I should be looking at to gin up a simple say 10x10ish pergola? Also looking for something to create some shade/give a structure for some wisteria to grow on, so I'm thinkng some sort of like this louvered look:


not sure how the gently caress i'd notch the crossbeams all together like that tho

Also these legos have a base that looks like you'd just bolt into a concrete footing - is this really a stable/durable way to secure something like this? I've always sunk posts into concrete but if its just as good I think she's leaning towards the aesthetic:


Also interested to hear some others thoughts on Toja. I've been researching pergolas for my own backyard, I have a big concrete patio that just bakes in the evening.

The toja product seems easy to assemble, but I've held off because of the price. For the price of their brackets plus lumber it approaches the cost of some of the options at Costco, and by itself it doesn't provide any shade. You still have to add slats or a sail cloth.

That base is fine as long as you anchor it properly. It's not intended to provide moment support (ie keep the post from hinging at the base). The rigidity of the assembly comes from having four posts anchored, like a table. Basically don't cantilever something off those bases.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
There are a lot of water-based trim and door enamels out these days that are acrylic-alkyd hybrids and do really great directly over existing oil based paint provided you do good prep by thoroughly scuff sanding and I like to follow that with a quick denatured alcohol wipe down. Ben Moore's Advance and SW's ProClassic Acrylic-Alkyd and Emerald Urethane are all hybrid products and I would have no qualms putting them directly over oil in my house (and have done so with the Emerald Urethane). Oil primer would make it more forgiving for any marginal surface prep though and I certainly wouldn't talk anyone out of using it if they wanted to take the extra step.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Soylent Majority posted:

Anyone have opinions about this sort of Pergola Lego system? https://tojagrid.com/collections/brackets-6-x-6

...
not sure how the gently caress I'd notch the crossbeams all together like that tho

If you have the confidence, build it from scratch.

To do the notching, take the first joist and measure & mark off those notches. Then use it as a template for the rest. The easiest way to get clean, perfectly aligned notches is to use a circular saw, chop-saw or table saw with a dado blade (two blades with a spacer block in the middle, and the blades riveted together).

Soylent Majority posted:

Also these legos have a base that looks like you'd just bolt into a concrete footing - is this really a stable/durable way to secure something like this? I've always sunk posts into concrete but if its just as good I think she's leaning towards the aesthetic:

I would pour footings.

Here's a site for scratch-building a pergola: https://www.quiet-corner.com/diy-build-pergola/

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