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Soldering to stainless is going to be hard, I think. I believe it's usually brazed using copper as filler but look into that before trying it. It looks like the leak is on the spring clamped return or vent line to me? Believe earls performance makes some m14x1.5 fittings but I'm not sure if they're available in flare, inverted flare, or braze-on. That's the ORB thread size the Jeep AW4 uses for the cooler line fittings which is the only reason I've heard of them, people were buying from earls years ago to get away from the factory quick connect adapters. Edit: yeah I'm having a hard time finding this, that's a very niche set of specs. You may need to settle for finding an m14x1.5 stainless flare adapter to something else and then turning the something else end to what you need using a lathe. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Jul 14, 2022 |
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Jul 14, 2022 07:39
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To clarify, the soldering will be to seal the hard line where it goes through the tank plate. AFAIK the tubing ends are just flared in some fashion. The one that’s leaking is the return line with a rubber hose - that should be easy. Put a bubble flare on the new line and clamp it. I’d prefer to only do this once, which is why I need to find hard line fittings. I *may* be able to re-use the existing fitting for now. I guess part of this is a ‘where do I learn about fuel line fittings?’ request because I knew I would have to do something like this eventually. Edit: When I say I’m adamant about staying metric, I really don’t care about the threads. I just don’t want to carry non-metric tools. If a metric wrench fits on the nuts that’s probably fine. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jul 14, 2022 |
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Jul 14, 2022 15:36
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Is it a common enough vehicle to be able to find a complete replacement line set? It's not a 90s Chevy pickup but there might be something out there. The only thing I remember about making them yourself is there was usually a good reason the designers used hard lines in some areas and rubber in others.
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Jul 15, 2022 18:09
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No aftermarket that I know of and this factory part is discontinued. In fact, there’s a recall on the gas tank (I suspect mine was done but a lot haven’t been) that Toyota can’t complete because they’re missing the part that broke here. If you try to get the recall done they offer to buy the whole vehicle back for around $13,000. I should say there is some aftermarket - the usual ‘fix’ is a 45 gallon aftermarket fuel tank. I do not want to go that route since I usually have to purposely drive my ICE vehicles so the gasoline doesn’t go bad. Also I like my spare tire where it is.
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Jul 15, 2022 19:44
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I'd bend up a replacement and put something common on that end. Stainless hard line to stainless fitting would be an easy tig job. Just got to sweat matching up the correct ID then. Re-read stuff. If the cover plate is steel then welded steel hardline would be option a. B would be drill it out and compression fitting on the plate. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 15, 2022 |
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Jul 15, 2022 23:15
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My intention is to (mostly) copy what this person did:  They recreated the stock steel lines with NiCopp and silver-soldered where they go through the plate. The steel lines are currently soldered and need to be desoldered for removal. That person, however, just put flares on the end and used a rubber hose to connect. I would prefer to do it as close to factory as possible.
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Jul 15, 2022 23:40
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Advent Horizon posted:My intention is to (mostly) copy what this person did: I think silver soldering needs a smaller gap than silver brazing. I'd silver braze it!
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Jul 16, 2022 03:45
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I'd do what makes it easier to fix next time.
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Jul 16, 2022 13:36
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Heck, I'd probably just put AN bulkhead and 90-degree fittings and adapt from there, personally, though the remaking and soldering in lines is also something I might do as well.
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Jul 18, 2022 20:33
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Darchangel posted:Heck, I'd probably just put AN bulkhead and 90-degree fittings and adapt from there, personally, though the remaking and soldering in lines is also something I might do as well. Same. I know AN breaks the "no non-metric wrenches" rule but holy gently caress they are so much nicer to work with. If you standardize on one line size you shouldn't need more than two or three wrenches, total.
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Jul 18, 2022 21:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Same. I know AN breaks the "no non-metric wrenches" rule but holy gently caress they are so much nicer to work with. If you standardize on one line size you shouldn't need more than two or three wrenches, total. i was gonna say that he might get lucky with a size that lines up pretty close between standard and metric, but that doesnt look likely. 1/4" ID has a 9/16" wrench size, which is interchangeable with 14mm, but 3/8 (much more likely for a fuel supply) uses 11/16" which is like 17.5mm. no luck
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Jul 19, 2022 04:45
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Supply should be 8mm (5/16 is close enough), return should be 6mm (using 3/16). I’m willing to put AN fittings on the bracket, but I do need to have hard lines down to the pump. I also don’t have access to the top of the tank when installed, YET. I eventually plan to put in an access panel but that will not be right now. Is there a good write-up somewhere on AN fittings?
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Jul 19, 2022 05:55
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If you werent unhappy with the idea of a rear wheel carrier i'd just use this as an excuse to fit a 150L long rage fuel tank.... https://longrangeautomotive.com.au/...9RxNV19wMTAxMTE But im also a bad influence and have an aversion to fuel stations. Mostly for drat good reason...  That hurt at 17L/100 towing...
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Jul 19, 2022 10:19
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Advent Horizon posted:Is there a good write-up somewhere on AN fittings? Pegasus Racing has some good tech articles in general, their AN hose and fitting one is a pretty decent overview - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00096 They'll custom make hoses if you want as well otherwise they're a good supplier to deal with but I'm not sure how much the shipping would hurt in your case.
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Jul 19, 2022 13:10
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Ferremit posted:If you werent unhappy with the idea of a rear wheel carrier i'd just use this as an excuse to fit a 150L long rage fuel tank.... He specifically said he won't do this as it doesn't get driven enough to keep the fuel from getting old even with just the factory tank, though.
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Jul 19, 2022 15:36
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Advent Horizon posted:Supply should be 8mm (5/16 is close enough), return should be 6mm (using 3/16). A pox on manufacturers who don't put in access plates. Oddly enough, first time I experienced an electric pump and access plate to go with it was a Toyota - my girlfriend-now-wife's '78 Celica. Odd that Toyota chose not to do that on the LC. Russell has an AN basics: http://www.russellperformance.com/misc/support/ NitroSpazzz posted:Pegasus Racing has some good tech articles in general, their AN hose and fitting one is a pretty decent overview - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00096 I like Pegasus, too. They once upon a time sent out free posters with a to-size chart on it - I have one up in my garage.
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Jul 19, 2022 16:52
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Rather than drop the fuel tank, this weekend I did some good puttering around the shop. I was out there this afternoon and glanced up to see this fine gentleman had come in out of the rain:  Note: Not my dog. This is Atlas, he’s a neighbor. He used to be a chonk but was put on a diet sometime in the last year. He loves neck scritches and stealing Doc’s bones from my shop couch. The big project I ‘completed’ was finally making a welding cart. This is my first fab project ever, and I’d welcome any critiques/ideas for improvement:  I started with a Harbor Freight hand truck that’s rated to 800 pounds and has solid rubber tires. I like that it can roll around outside without catching on pebbles and also that it takes up less overall floor space than a normal cart. It can also fit two tanks if I ever get ambitious enough to try welding aluminum or stainless. I ran out of the sample wire spool right before doing the hooks so those were done with a different brand and size of wire. I think I like the .30 I started with more than the .24 but I’ll need to do some more practice before I’m really sure. I went to .24 since I’m eventually going to need to do a lot of sheet metal work and I don’t foresee running through the big spool for a long time. I’d like to add more storage to the cart; above the welder is probably the best place to add any:  I’d like to store the tip goo jar, pliers, gloves, and maybe spare tips. Any ideas?
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Jul 25, 2022 05:06
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Nice work. I would make a ring a few inches tall or even a half ring welded to the bottom where the bottle sits to keep it in place better instead of ratchet straps (well it would replace the lower one at least). If you change bottle sizes though then maybe not. Use it for a bit and you'll figure out your needs/likes and dislikes.
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Jul 25, 2022 14:00
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How stable is it? It looks like it will introduce the welder to the ground if you try and swap the tank without thinking about it mid project.
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Jul 25, 2022 14:32
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It actually does stay up without the tank; this was a test fit:  The welder weighs about 80 pounds and most of the heavy stuff is ahead of the axle. The only thing behind the axle is the spool. The Harbor Freight hand truck is surprisingly heavy and the back strap is flush with the uprights (so the welder sits further forward), which also really helps.  I’ve been rolling the tank around on it for the last month, ratchet strapped, and I’m actually really happy with how one tank stays put. If I get a second tank I’ll probably need to add a couple tabs to the base plate but that’s a problem for future me. The whole thing with welder and tank is actually quite stable. Honestly it feels more stable than most carts because it’s flat on the round rather than rolling on cheap casters.
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Jul 25, 2022 15:57
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Advent Horizon posted:It actually does stay up without the tank; this was a test fit: Hey that looks really good! I would want to move the wheels back but if you say it's stable then it must be. Make some keyholes in it for chains for the tank, or I think you said you'll make mounting loops for it. That'll be more convenient than straps and will last longer. Big hooks for the ground wire and feed are nice too.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:32
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If you really want to zazz it up, you can add a little fence on the bottom to locate the tank and keep it stable, and a bracket on the back to keep it centered as well, in addition to a chain holding it in place.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:38
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I like that cart idea - may steal it! I'd probably add lean back wheels like some of the heavy duty dollies so you can lean it back and not have to hold it up. Something like this: (that's even a cylinder transport dolly) You could even make them swing out so they're out of the way when it's upright.
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Jul 25, 2022 23:05
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Adding supports like that might actually make it less stable since they’d be behind the axle. Since everybody has said something, I’ll go ahead and add a couple pieces of angle to keep the tank from moving side to side. I’m still going to use the ratchet straps, though, since they tug it up super tight and also don’t make a ton of noise. It has been brought to my attention that most vehicles don’t have drain plugs for the fuel tank. That is stupid. I hadn’t realized how lucky I am to be able to do this: 
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Jul 31, 2022 20:01
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Doesn't a drain plug also make things crazy easy for a fuel thief? I wonder if that feature's disappearance started right around the same time as the first oil crisis. Also, a drain plug isn't really needed if you have an access port on the top of the tank for the fuel pump. That seems like the better solution. Way too many manufacturers skip that one too though.
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Aug 2, 2022 18:55
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PBCrunch posted:Doesn't a drain plug also make things crazy easy for a fuel thief? Like that's stopped the thieves who just roll up with a drill and punch through a plastic gas tank. I'm 100% certain it went away because it costs more than no drain plug and the number of people who will ever have good reason to need a drain plug on their fuel tank is vanishingly small.
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Aug 2, 2022 20:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:Like that's stopped the thieves who just roll up with a drill and punch through a plastic gas tank. ^^^ It's can my gas can fit under plus drill. I doubt it's a consideration past can we save a nickle. People put the wrong or lovely gas in all the time. And it's never the manufacturers fault so gently caress em.
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Aug 3, 2022 02:52
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honda whisperer posted:I doubt it's a consideration past can we save a nickle. People put the wrong or lovely gas in all the time. And it's never the manufacturers fault so gently caress em. They don't even put drain plugs on transmissions, the last car I changed the fluid on that had one was a 62 with a powerglide. The next step beyond is the lifetime fill transmissions without dip sticks. Then there's the savings of not putting an access hole for the fuel pump, that's a second or third owner problem usually.
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Aug 3, 2022 03:13
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I just used the vehicle fuel pump to drain the last 2 tanks i had to take out. Not sure you really need a drain on anything with an electric pump. In my case I just popped a fuel hose off in the engine bay after the filter, lined up my jerry cans and used a longer hose to fill them after jumping the fuel pump relay. As a bonus it means the fuel all runs through the filters too so you dont get any poo poo like when you drop it via a drain.
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Aug 3, 2022 11:30
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All the non motorcycle fuel tanks I've ever pulled has been to do the fuel pump, all on GM trucks I didn't want to cut an access hole in. I suppose you could bang on the tank hoping it will start spinning again.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:13
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Tomarse posted:I just used the vehicle fuel pump to drain the last 2 tanks i had to take out. Not sure you really need a drain on anything with an electric pump. This is perfect when everything is going well, but fuel pumps nearly universally fail when you have just filled the tank. I've been lucky so far, but I know it won't last and I'm going to have to deal with 20 gallons of gas and a failed pump in the next tank I drop.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:51
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SpeedFreek posted:They don't even put drain plugs on transmissions, the last car I changed the fluid on that had one was a 62 with a powerglide. The next step beyond is the lifetime fill transmissions without dip sticks. Jiffy lube can't gently caress up draining the wrong sump. Checkmate.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:57
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What would be the logistics of pre-emptively adding a drain port to a fuel tank in situ? Could you drive until the engine is sputtering from lack of fuel, jack the body up on an incline to drive remaining fuel to one side, drill a hole away from the fuel (with a special drill bit?), and install some kind of self-sealing drain port?
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Aug 3, 2022 18:08
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what I'm not sure who is more drunk, me or you E: maybe me, but still
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Aug 4, 2022 01:54
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PBCrunch posted:What would be the logistics of pre-emptively adding a drain port to a fuel tank in situ? Could you drive until the engine is sputtering from lack of fuel, jack the body up on an incline to drive remaining fuel to one side, drill a hole away from the fuel (with a special drill bit?), and install some kind of self-sealing drain port? on a steel tank? not only no, but lol no. the fuel vapor is explosive, and cutting/drilling might throw sparks or at least introduce heat where you dont want it the classic solution is to fill the tank with water to displace all the gas fumes, but that assumes you can flip it downside up better to just get a virgin tank to work on, then swap it if its plastic, maybe you could do what you describe, but i still wouldn't trust something to seal where you can't get to the back of it all more trouble than its worth i think
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Aug 4, 2022 05:35
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Yeah, if the tank doesn’t have a plug I wouldn’t add one. I get to pull the tank on a 1982 Corolla after this, guess we’ll see if Toyota used plugs on everything back in the day. I’m trying to get the shop cleaned up; I finally finished building a crate for the A440F automatic we pulled out of the FJ62. I still need to add a bunch of spray foam inside but at least the carpentry is done. This seems safe:  Now that I’m not generating piles of sawdust for a few days I can finally finish up the welding cart and then pull the FJ62 back in. I expect the Corolla to show up any day now, too. Another new project!
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Aug 4, 2022 05:48
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I figured out a good shelf for my welding cart - a .30 ammo can is perfect for holding a spare spool, tips, plus any other odds and ends. I also added a couple tabs on the base to really hold the cylinder, plus a pegboard loop for the pliers. Owning a welder is weird. Now I’m wandering around the hardware store thinking about stuff I could hot-glue together.
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Aug 5, 2022 05:16
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I like the compactness of your cart, I made mine to be able to fit a 2nd machine in the future but when I have to travel with it I have regrets. With a mig it's so drat easy, as long as I don't think I'll need to take it apart anytime soon it's getting welded. Won't fit on the trailer, chop and put it back together later.
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Aug 5, 2022 17:42
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That turned out pretty nifty. I'm going to have to do something when I get my TIG to accommodate both machines - which reminds me I need to acquire a pure Argon bottle for that, too. Right now I just have the cart that goes with my Hobart (an earlier 135.)
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Aug 5, 2022 22:52
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Yesterday a friend messaged asking if I had any 4x6 speakers - he’d been cleaning his GMT400 and got a bug to fix a blown speaker. I said I didn’t, but we could check with Dale the unpermitted junkyard guy. Sure enough, the lot is now more full than before the city cleaned it out last fall. We found a speaker and I picked up a switch for a future 2Lo project. I’ve already figured out the wiring and should be able to relabel this:  …I also bought another transmission and transfer case. I don’t need them, but it’s good to have a spare transfer case core, right? I’m not sure what model transmission it is, but it’s for a B-series diesel. I’ve got to go out sometime this week and drag it out of the woods. Today was (is, actually, they’re still running past our house) the first Alaska Ironman competition; we grabbed some breakfast and watched the bikers for a bit. This poor woman had her third tire puncture right across from us:  She was only halfway through the bike portion, too. I hope her luck improved! Pulled the FJ62 into the shop to get the gas tank dropped; I have also confirmed that the body shop who did work on it a few years ago installed the windshield wrong. It is leaking quite badly:  I have supplies on the way to remedy that for now, but really I will need to pull the windshield and repair the sheetmetal seam behind the gasket. Just one more indication that this will end up as a frame-off sooner or later. Speaking of restoration, as I started taking pieces off to get at the gas tank I ended up having the fuel filler shield fall off onto my face:  That thing is trashed and I can’t get a replacement because they all go bad - it’s right in the path of crap from the rear tire. I now have my first sheet metal repair project lined up, I guess. I then went to get the electrolysis tank going and needed to clean up my rebar anodes. I was just finishing up when my grinder rapidly went from working great to not working at all:  Good thing I was wearing PPE! I’m almost afraid to wash my jacket because there’s so many little wires and I don’t want to kill our washer.
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Aug 8, 2022 06:05
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