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PainterofCrap posted:If you have the confidence, build it from scratch. When you say you’d pour footings, do you mean sinking the posts in the concrete or something else? We are redoing the patio that this would be on here now, and the plan is to get the design/location of the posts settled and put concrete footings in those locations and brick the rest of the way.
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Jul 22, 2022 17:17
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I think you dig a hole like you're gonna put in a post, but then you drop in a 8" cardboard form, backfill with dirt on the outside, concrete on the inside, with steel studs sticking to bolt your Lego base to
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Jul 22, 2022 17:48
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Soylent Majority posted:When you say you’d pour footings, do you mean sinking the posts in the concrete or something else? We are redoing the patio that this would be on here now, and the plan is to get the design/location of the posts settled and put concrete footings in those locations and brick the rest of the way. I don't know exactly how you properly do it but I do know if you put the posts in the concrete, they will rot and it'll be a giant pain in the rear end to dig them out and do it right next time.
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Jul 22, 2022 17:51
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Hadlock posted:I think you dig a hole like you're gonna put in a post, but then you drop in a 8" cardboard form, backfill with dirt on the outside, concrete on the inside, with steel studs sticking to bolt your Lego base to Like this but no cardboard. Pour the concrete directly in the hole. The natural soil is compacted well enough, better than you'll do backfilling it with loose soil. Putting bolts in it is more complicated than in willing to type. Search how to set anchor bolts. Maybe a small hunk of cardboard tube at the top for a nice finish.
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Jul 22, 2022 17:55
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StormDrain posted:Like this but no cardboard. Pour the concrete directly in the hole. The natural soil is compacted well enough, better than you'll do backfilling it with loose soil. Putting bolts in it is more complicated than in willing to type. Search how to set anchor bolts. Depends on what you've got. I don't have a post hole digger so I'm making holes with a miniex. I use sonotubes to avoid needing to dump $400 worth of concrete in each hole 
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Jul 22, 2022 18:10
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BonerGhost posted:I don't know exactly how you properly do it but I do know if you put the posts in the concrete, they will rot and it'll be a giant pain in the rear end to dig them out and do it right next time. Is treated wood illegal in your state 4x4 post ought to last you at least a decade, twenty years if you put any kind of sealant on the end grain
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Jul 22, 2022 18:34
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But why not just use concrete anchors and avoid ground contact all together? Cast in place or expansion, both are pretty easy to use.
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Jul 22, 2022 18:38
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Motronic posted:Depends on what you've got. I don't have a post hole digger so I'm making holes with a miniex. I use sonotubes to avoid needing to dump $400 worth of concrete in each hole Ya but you're a recreational handyman who doesn't need my clarification. The rest of us are going to wreck our shoulders with a clamshell digger like a real homeowner. Then we'll mix too much water with my quickrete and wet set anchor bolts at a 5 degree angle.
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Jul 22, 2022 18:49
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StormDrain posted:Ya but you're a recreational handyman who doesn't need my clarification. Straight enough!
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Jul 22, 2022 19:01
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StormDrain posted:Ya but you're a recreational handyman who doesn't need my clarification. Had a contractor at a previous job gently caress up anchor bolt patterns in a foundation by enough that the whole foundation had to be pulled out and recast. It was for a 50' lattice tower. The foundation was 4' diameter x 16' deep.
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Jul 22, 2022 19:37
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brugroffil posted:Had a contractor at a previous job gently caress up anchor bolt patterns in a foundation by enough that the whole foundation had to be pulled out and recast. Goddamn. My smoothest anchor bolt project was one where the subcontractor suggested we cast embeds and welded threaded rod to that after laying it out. All the embeds made it in and the rods were welded in place and it all went to plan. My worst anchor bolt project was one where I suggested we cast embeds and weld threaded rod to that after laying it out. Nobody trusted the strength of the embeds after pouring and it sucked up hours of my time reviewing it. It was fine.
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Jul 22, 2022 21:19
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My worst anchor bolt project was when the township code inspector failed my footings a week after he watched the mason pour them, stating that hurricane anchors were a code requirement. I had to rent a Hilti, bought a 5/8" diamond bit, six tubes of that hideously expensive concrete adhesive that mixes as you trigger it, and 40-J-anchors. I cut all of the angled bits off & glued them in to pass. Cost about $400. It never sat well with the code assholes that I was doing my own build, rather than hiring
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Jul 23, 2022 01:01
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So this week I learned that the PO, while renovating the house prior to selling it, didn't bother to properly vent any of the drain lines in the entire house! The only vertical vent stack in the house just stops somewhere in the middle of the wall cavity of the master bathroom, which is exactly where some very foul odors crop up whenever I wash dishes. There are some old vent pipes in the attic that go out through the roof, but they aren't connected to anything at all. That's fun.
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Jul 23, 2022 01:07
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StormDrain posted:recreational handyman This is good terminology.
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Jul 23, 2022 01:25
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I'm probably being too paranoid and maybe a dumb question, but are there laboratory home air tests for asbestos (like those radon mail in test kits)? We have some pics from previous renovations and it looks like a bunch of black thinset or adhesive all over the concrete floor underneath their ceramic tile that was ripped up to put on floating floor. House construction date is towards the later safer years (1989), but seeing as adhesive was never tested and I can't go back in time to get a sample, this was the only check I could think of for peace of mind.
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Jul 29, 2022 |
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Jul 23, 2022 05:19
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You can get a lab test done on a physical solid sample, but asbestos is solid and mostly inert until disturbed so I don't think you can get an "air test". You'll need a substantial sample, at least a few grams Unless it's in a surface you regularly brush up against, or you're about to do a demolition, it's probably not reason for concern. Don't get me wrong, you don't want lung cancer, but unless you worked in a mine, or professionally installed it for a living, asbestos properly installed will probably not be a problem Hadlock fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Jul 23, 2022 |
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Jul 23, 2022 05:27
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PageMaster posted:I'm probably being too paranoid and maybe a dumb question, but are there laboratory home air tests for asbestos (like those radon mail in test kits)? We received some pics from previous owner renovations while also asking for some permit info/history, and it looks like a bunch of black thinset or adhesive all over the concrete floor underneath their ceramic tile that they ripped up to put on floating floor. House construction date is towards the later safer years (1989), In the (insurance claims) industry, we don't even test for lead or asbestos unless the house was built before 1978. Even if the floor tile was asbestos, it's not friable (doesn't break into bits small enough to be airborne) even when scraped up.
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Jul 23, 2022 14:32
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The only spot it would be is your duct work. If you wanted to open it up to a spot there you can scrape out a chunk of dusty crud you could have it sent to a lab. If it's been years though and you were built in 89 the odds of there being anything there in the first place or anything left are very low.
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Jul 23, 2022 14:58
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Thanks all. My concern was if they did kick up a bunch during their Reno of pulling up tile and carpet (assuming the black marks are adhesive/mastic) and had the AC circulating air for a couple years before we bought and now having the stuff everywhere in the house. I do realize we can't tell for certain from just pictures and house age, and that this might be overly cautious and worrying. Digging through the AC duct at the register might be an option. I also found companies that do air testing, (basically air suction in the house then microscopic analysis of results/fibers for air clearance purposes, but that seems more tailored to commercial and industrial purposes and might be overkill.
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jul 23, 2022 |
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Jul 23, 2022 16:31
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PageMaster posted:Thanks all. My concern was if they did kick up a bunch during their Reno of pulling up tile and carpet (assuming the black marks are adhesive/mastic) and had the AC circulating air for a couple years before we bought and now having the stuff everywhere in the house. I do realize we can't tell for certain from just pictures and house age, and that this might be overly cautious and worrying. Digging through the AC duct at the register might be an option. I also found companies that do air testing, (basically air suction in the house then microscopic analysis of results/fibers for air clearance purposes, but that seems more tailored to commercial and industrial purposes and might be overkill. That's to make sure that the remediation company has done their job right and the hepa filters ran long enough to clear the airborne fibers from literally wrecking out asbestos materials.
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Jul 23, 2022 17:02
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H110Hawk posted:That's to make sure that the remediation company has done their job right and the hepa filters ran long enough to clear the airborne fibers from literally wrecking out asbestos materials. The price isn't too insane for just a residence, and they might be able to look at the pictures and give some input, too, just for peace of mind (and less dangerous than just Google). A surprising number of residential "reassurance testing" hits came up, maybe a rasponse to the crazy gone Reno/flip market here? PageMaster fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jul 24, 2022 |
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Jul 24, 2022 01:44
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PageMaster posted:The price isn't too insane for just a residence, and they might be able to look at the pictures and give some input, too, just for peace of mind. A surprising number of residential "reassurance testing" hits came up, maybe a rasponse to the crazy gone Reno/flip market here? It's a real thing especially with lead paint. I'm worried about our neighbors house getting flipped and 100% intend to ask the city if they put environmental testing (as required for the work it needs) is being done. I don't want to be one of those houses where the neighbors sand off their lead paint and blow it out the window into my back yard. Asbestos is generally going to mop up really well and isn't going to be a thing unless it's in the ducts (most of it stuck enough now) or you kept the furniture from the previous owners.
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Jul 24, 2022 01:50
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H110Hawk posted:It's a real thing especially with lead paint. I'm worried about our neighbors house getting flipped and 100% intend to ask the city if they put environmental testing (as required for the work it needs) is being done. I don't want to be one of those houses where the neighbors sand off their lead paint and blow it out the window into my back yard. Updating just in case anyone else has the same problem and reads this thread so this isn't just a problem post with no solution.. Thanks for the help; we did not keep any of their stuff, but the ducts are a main concern of mine as well. We did run the AC with a HEPA filter for 24 hours (I know this is bad for the blower which is why we don't do this all the time). Found a contractor that will do an air test (gather air sample and do on site PCM analysis). This basically gives a total count of all fibers per some volume, so if that's below the permissable exposure limit we're comfortable. Also doing one surface dust wipe, and wipe is sent to lab to see if asbestos found on it; after feedback here I'll probably have them wipe the ductwork and register at one of the supply registers or nearby horizontal surface at the return grille. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jul 24, 2022 |
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Jul 24, 2022 20:06
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We live on the edge of the deep south. Our front "yard" largely consists of a small courtyard with brick pavers that gets moderate shade most of the day. I'm pretty new to the region. The brick pavers are bog standard, real red brick pavers (not concrete things dyed red) The pavers and front steps (also red brick/pavers) were already starting to get some moss intrusion from the far edges, and the bricks/grouting seem to be getting black stuff (mildew?) it's not crazy bad but wife took some pics out front and it's visible in the background and getting close to needing to be dealt with Is this solvable with a 1500 psi pressure washer rental from Lowe's and 15 minutes of my time, or what's the solution here
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Jul 24, 2022 21:20
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Hadlock posted:We live on the edge of the deep south. Our front "yard" largely consists of a small courtyard with brick pavers that gets moderate shade most of the day. I'm pretty new to the region. The brick pavers are bog standard, real red brick pavers (not concrete things dyed red) For the same price you can buy one from hazard fraught. Ours is great. Be careful you might obliterate your brick. Don't get too close. I might even try dumping vinegar on it. Who knows why but it seems like a thing I would do. Also don't know if that reacts with brick or what you are trying to nuke.
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Jul 24, 2022 21:33
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I have a dumb thing I'm obsessing over, and I'm throwing myself on the mercy of goons. We have a decorative wrought-iron chandelier we want to hang from the ceiling in our living room. The ceiling is knotty pine, we're being careful to hang it far below the ceiling, and will never leave the room while it's lit. Because the ceiling is decades-old knotty pine, God only knows where the joists are. I like these hooks, but they're attached to the ceiling by a single screw. I like this one a lot less, but it's held by four screws rather than one. The chandelier weighs no more than 10 pounds. (Held skillet in one hand, chandelier in the other, switched skillets until they felt the same, skillet weighed out at 7.5 pounds.) So. Given that I'm driving the screw into wood planks, not necessarily into a joist, does it matter which of these I use? The chandelier's not going to brain anybody if it falls, I'd just like to avoid the emotional wear and tear.
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Jul 24, 2022 22:34
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H110Hawk posted:hazard fraught Uh oh you said the magic words, now somebody is going to put us in our place for spending too little money on tools Vinegar isn't gonna work, I have like 1000 sq ft of front lawn/patio I'll see what hf is charging these days. Lowe's wants $25 for a half day rental
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Jul 24, 2022 22:52
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Hadlock posted:Uh oh you said the magic words, now somebody is going to put us in our place for spending too little money on tools I think the best coupons used to get you down to $65. I spent $75 on mine pre pandemic. It's great. This one-ish: https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-garden/outdoor-power-tools/pressure-washers/1750-psi-13-gpm-corded-electric-pressure-washer-63254.html Mine is blue. They sometimes have competing ones in this same pressure class, if you can wait it tends to go on sale a lot.
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Jul 24, 2022 23:11
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Hadlock posted:Uh oh you said the magic words, now somebody is going to put us in our place for spending too little money on tools Life has thrown an opportunity in front of you to get a pressure washer; you should take it. My dad has one, and it slapped. I hosed down all kinds of stuff with it (rugs, outdoor furniture, my concrete, etc.) I think if you get an adjustable-pressure wand for it you an even use it on your car, and even go higher for your rims/tires. Hell, I'm pretty sure my dad used his to wash his vinyl siding once every couple of years. You'll find stuff to point it at. Worst case, if you end up jonesing to use it you can start putting up signs around your neighborhood "Pressure Washing, Reasonable Rates, 555-555-5555"
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Jul 25, 2022 05:20
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Soylent Majority posted:Toja Grid Stuff I'm in summer #2 with my Tojagrid pergola. I just anchored the footers right to my concrete pad. I don't think it's going anywhere, it's not like a steel roofed pergola that could get swept away in some wind. Also not having a roof meant code in my area didn't care about it. My system is 12'x8'x'8 LxWxH with the mesh shade cover. I used 6x6 cedar posts for the build as I saw some people reviewing saying that the 4x4 builds look a little bit weak and I agree that my 6x6 assembly looks extremely good. Since installation I've strung up some lights, put a table under it and used it for several gatherings. Some tips for assembly... We foolishly assembled the top 4 posts first and did a thing where we lifted the roof up and slid the posts under it. It was SO HEAVY using 6x6 posts. I think if I ever assemble another tojagrid pergola I would try to do the top beams assembly in the air even though those posts are pretty unwieldy up on ladders... If you try to assemble it like I did, probably will need 3 people w/ 3 ladders or 2 trained powerlifters to do it safely. I feel lucky I didn't injure myself. e: image double e: w/ the lights and stuff 
extravadanza fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jul 25, 2022 |
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Jul 25, 2022 14:13
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I'll throw this out there, I have that same HF pressure washer, and while it's great at washing cars and light duty stuff like siding, I'd never use it to clean sidewalks etc, unless you want to do it a 1.5 inch wide strip at a time. It just doesn't have enough guts for work like that unless you're super close to the surface.
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Jul 25, 2022 14:23
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Costco has a pretty decent 2000 psi pressure washer.
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Jul 25, 2022 14:41
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Yeah I am seeing conflicting reports that 800psi is enough, and other guys saying 3000 is needed Watching one guy professionally clean brick and then watching the HF reviews it certainly seems like the professional guy with 3000 psi is getting a lot more done more quickly Looks the the HF model has "laser pointer" mode where it concentrates the stream on a tiny spot and that would do the trick, but that's like a three day job across 1000 sq ft plus two sets of brick steps which is a lot more than the 2-3 hours I had mentally budgeted for the project
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Jul 25, 2022 17:57
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Hadlock posted:Yeah I am seeing conflicting reports that 800psi is enough, and other guys saying 3000 is needed 2500-3000 is where you can really start getting things done. But more importantly than pressure you have to be flowing enough water. I would rather have a 3 GPM 1500 PSI pressure washer for cleaning concrete than a 2 GPM 3000 PSI. Of course the former is a $1800 240v unit while the latter is a $600 gas thing. I dunno how cleaning brick goes, but concrete goes easiest when you're running a big surface cleaner and those need a lot of waterflow.
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Jul 25, 2022 18:22
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I’ve had good experiences renting a giant gas one from Sherwin Williams on the rare occasions I’ve needed to pressure wash something. They’re big commercial 5000PSI beasts and you can rent the round concrete scrubbers too. It’s been a few years but I don’t remember it being horribly expensive.
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Jul 25, 2022 18:28
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I'm looking for a keypad door lock with a key override and a manual deadbolt. I saw the Schlage BE365 used to come highly recommended but recently changed their manufacturing process and is now shipping a ton of duds. Any recommendations? Wi-fi and other fancy features are totally unnecessary.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:04
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Just ranting.. Why is it the small repair jobs always become big ones? Back deck stairs needed new treads (literally just replacing a couple 2x6s - it's 3 steps). When taking the old ones off the stringer breaks. Grumble, fine, start pulling that off, realize it's a piece of junk (maybe homemade?) and toenailed/screwed into the wall with no bracing and 2 screws only. Wtf. The space under the stairs has decking, notice it's starting to go rotten, so rip that out. Find out that the old stringers were actually just resting on a deck board that's spanning a 32" space because for some reason the joist stopped there and didn't go all the way across. Explains the extra sponginess of the stairs - I'm surprised that my family didn't get hurt with the stairs collapsing. Rip out more deck boards, install a new joist so the stairs can sit on something solid, only to realize the stringers that were installed was actually the wrong size (3 steps instead of 4), and the PO probably just got the wrong one and jury rigged it into place - which explains why the stairs always were a bit weird in layout. At least now the stairs are nice and solid - 2 hours job turns into a 2 day job with running back and forth to HD.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:15
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Harriet Carker posted:I'm looking for a keypad door lock with a key override and a manual deadbolt. I saw the Schlage BE365 used to come highly recommended but recently changed their manufacturing process and is now shipping a ton of duds. Any recommendations? Wi-fi and other fancy features are totally unnecessary. We've had a Schlage FE595 for 3 years and are very happy with it. Easy to add/delete codes when employees join/leave. Hindsight 20/20 I will probably be adding a Z-Wave based security system like Ring and it'd be nice to have the door log attempts and successes to the security system. EDIT: Also wish I could schedule locked times for codes. Outside of hours people should be there? Can't get in without certain code. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jul 25, 2022 |
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Jul 25, 2022 20:14
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Harriet Carker posted:I'm looking for a keypad door lock with a key override and a manual deadbolt. I saw the Schlage BE365 used to come highly recommended but recently changed their manufacturing process and is now shipping a ton of duds. Any recommendations? Wi-fi and other fancy features are totally unnecessary. Yale Assure is pretty nice, it does have a motorized deadbolt though and I suspect that will be the weak point for longevity.
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Jul 25, 2022 20:18
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Harriet Carker posted:I'm looking for a keypad door lock with a key override and a manual deadbolt. I saw the Schlage BE365 used to come highly recommended but recently changed their manufacturing process and is now shipping a ton of duds. Any recommendations? Wi-fi and other fancy features are totally unnecessary. I've had a kwikset for a few years that works and has those features. Only five buttons though, so limited code options. The first set of batteries lasted years and the next died within a few months which is odd. Third set seems fine for now!
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Jul 25, 2022 20:59
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