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BlackMK4 posted:It is a big jump, for sure. The massive tire point change with NASA this year still hasn't brought complete parity. I'd thought that I'd stay in endurance-DOT-R-land for a while and practice race craft and stuff... and still may but just yikes. Edit: Oh hey - anyone try the Hankook Z214s? mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jul 25, 2022 |
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Jul 24, 2022 16:01
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Well they told me to hold off on upgrading anything until I had some track time under my belt and it turns out that the advice of 'upgrade your brakes and tires first' is 100% accurate. I was able to reach the breaking point with my stock tires and brakes at the Glen a few months ago but this past weekend at Pitt was just plain disappointing because I was reliably and easily pushing them both past their limit without much effort. This is how it starts, isn't it? I'm just gonna get a new set of tires because of course I need new tires! The car has a few years on it already. Brakes are important too! Then I'll be at my next track and thinking of what I need to tweak next and two years from now I'll be working on a dedicated track car. Also it's really incredible how different the different NASA regions operate. Northeast very much seemed to be of the 'fly by the seat of your pants and you'll figure it out' school vs. Great Lakes' 'every single outing is going to have an explicit purpose and we are going to drill the poo poo out of you'. I really wish my first track day was with the Great Lakes group as I feel it would have been way less terrifying. Still glad I've done both though. My instructor says that if I can get some reliable brakes I should be able to easily qualify for HPDE-2. Everything else in my driving was well done in his view, but because my brakes were so unreliable it was impossible to have a few laps where I could demonstrate consistency. I plan on upgrading to a set of Michelin PS4s since the car I'm driving is still my daily. So it's still more my daily driver than it is a track car. Can anyone recommend a set of brake pads that would be the equivalent step up in performance while still being decent for street driving?
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Jul 25, 2022 14:28
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I used Ferodo DS2500s for that application on my e36 M3. That and fresh GOOD fluid may be your best bet. You'll still eventually cook them and want to step up to more of a track pad.
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Jul 25, 2022 15:19
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PIZZA.BAT posted:I plan on upgrading to a set of Michelin PS4s since the car I'm driving is still my daily. So it's still more my daily driver than it is a track car. Can anyone recommend a set of brake pads that would be the equivalent step up in performance while still being decent for street driving? What brake fluid are you using and how old was it? How much brake pad thickness did you consume for the weekend? I think I saw you post in another thread that you had severe brake fade with heat soak - I'd be more suspicious of your fluid than pads. You have a heavy, high HP car - it will need fresh (<1yo, preferably <6mo) and quality fluid (start with ATE TYP200 and go up from there) There is no such thing as a good combo street/track brake pad. Everyone who gets serious about this hobby ends up swapping pads or getting a dedicated car. Most people don't need to switch until they're intermediateish, but if you drive tracks that are hard on the brakes or your learning style is hard on the brakes, you may need to make this jump sooner.
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Jul 25, 2022 23:31
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Stock four year old fluid. Yes I know this was colossally stupid to do and I've learned my lesson
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Jul 26, 2022 00:24
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Just put in the fluid I gave you and a set of hawk dtc 30s and swap them out. You can probably run the hawks in the summer on the street if you really want. Not in the winter probably. The 30s are a lot less aggressive than the 60s I have. Edit: HP Plus maybe? https://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/collections/racing-brake-pads/products/hawk-performance-hb350n-496-brake-pads-rear?variant=4086235237600 (Those aren't right for your car just the first ones I found) KillHour fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jul 26, 2022 |
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Jul 26, 2022 00:47
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Eh I was not impressed with the HP+. Obnoxious on the street and still overheated on the track. I found the DS2500 better in both regards. But yes, you'll probably want to go to a full track pad and swap them for track days.
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Jul 26, 2022 02:08
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PIZZA.BAT posted:Stock four year old fluid. Yes I know this was colossally stupid to do and I've learned my lesson This is your biggest issue, next is your pads. Ideally flush the fluid a week or two before the event but do it at least once every six months if you're tracking the car. Grab some ATE TYP200 and flush that old junk out of there. I'd bet you could get pedal fade on the street doing a few 0-100-0 runs without trying too hard. Hawk blue->HP->DTC30 in order of aggressive street pad to track pad. I run blue on the E30 on the road and other than dust they're fine for daily use while still holding up to spirited driving and light track duty... hell that's what we ran on our endurance car for years because they're "good enough", super easy to modulate and would hold up to 10+ hours of racing.
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Jul 26, 2022 10:01
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Hawk Blues are more robust than HP+; however, the compound is old old old old old (and probably shouldn’t be used on track, much like the HP+).
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Jul 26, 2022 19:28
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Here are my two best sessions from last weekend. Car had a lot of overheating issues, but I think I still put down a few decent times. Sad I couldn't get to the 2:10 mark on the second day but I think it was just too hot for the poor car. Definitely appreciate any feedback on what I'm loving up (other than my heel-toe I know that is absolutely horrid. I need to get new pedal covers because holy poo poo is it bad in this car). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4B8Ok2t2r-Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e9ES8CbyAE Actually, does anyone have experience with pedal sets in the FoRS? I'd like some recommendations. This situation is dire. 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jul 27, 2022 |
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Jul 27, 2022 19:20
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Phone posted:Hawk Blues are more robust than HP+; however, the compound is old old old old old (and probably shouldn’t be used on track, much like the HP+). I just tossed out my trusty old Blues and they are old as poo poo but I have to disagree a little. I found them to have good bite and grip and were pretty even-handed and predictable up to the kinds of mid range temps seen at an HPDE. The new ER-1s I just ran at Laguna Seca yesterday seem to be Hawk's heir apparent to a couple of different pads including the Blues and it showed. They are definitely an enduro pad but have more range than other enduro pads. Unfortunately I can't give a full review of them because something in my brake system started making GBS threads the bed on me and was overloading the fronts badly. Made entering the hairpin and corkscrew, umm, interesting.
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Jul 28, 2022 05:24
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I'd trust the Blues over the HP+, my comment was more of "don't use HP+ at a track day and don't use Hawk Blues unless if you got a brand new set for like $5".   In the case of the HP+, 800F ain't that hot; a Miata on 200TW tires can get them out of bounds.
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Jul 28, 2022 05:38
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I've had both and I agree in general. If anyone is looking for a do-all pad that is "good on the street and at least ok on track" just don't. Get a track day pad that is good on track and won't cause you to kill a pedestrian on your way to the track. Blue was that pad for me anyways, until now.
Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jul 28, 2022 |
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Jul 28, 2022 05:46
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Alright sounds good. One more question and KillHour I know you explained this to me several times at the track but I'm an idiot and need someone to explain this to me like I'm an idiot: what's the deal with swapping out rotors when you change pads? My only take away is 'sometimes you need to do it and sometimes you don't' and I want to actually understand when I should or shouldn't change them
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Jul 28, 2022 13:07
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The pads leave some of themselves behind on the rotor. This is called the transfer layer. That coating being happy is a big chunk of the brakes working well. Pad a and b might be cool with swapping while a and c hate each other.
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Jul 28, 2022 13:21
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Change your rotors any time you change to a different pad material. That means if you're switching between street and track pads, you're switching rotors as well.
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Jul 28, 2022 13:36
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Depends on the manufacturer, jesus christ Carbotechs are/were notorious for how finicky they were about bedding in procedures and making sure that the transfer layer was good. On the other hand, Hawks DGAF and I would swap out DTC-60s and HP+ regularly on the fronts.
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Jul 28, 2022 23:29
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KillHour posted:Actually, does anyone have experience with pedal sets in the FoRS? I'd like some recommendations. This situation is dire. You need the two piece adjustable throttle pedal spacer they sell for the Mk3 Focus. I was able to set it to be roughly the same spacing as my E46. I left mine on my car when I sold it to a friend but he’s promised to keep it for me if he sells the car (I miss my Focus and want another one). The factory pedal locations are loving garbage.
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Jul 29, 2022 00:41
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RIP Paul Walker posted:You need the two piece adjustable throttle pedal spacer they sell for the Mk3 Focus. I was able to set it to be roughly the same spacing as my E46. I left mine on my car when I sold it to a friend but he’s promised to keep it for me if he sells the car (I miss my Focus and want another one). Any idea where I can buy that?
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Jul 29, 2022 00:58
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Breedt Product Design 253.859.1100 abreedt@bptdesign.com 811 1st Ave. S Kent, WA 98032 These guys made it, looks like their site no longer lists it but I bet if you call they’ll make you one. Invoice said I ordered the thin one which is the one you’ll want I think. The 3D printed ones suck. I may have one sitting around if you want to try it tho.
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Jul 29, 2022 04:33
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Phone posted:On the other hand, Hawks DGAF and I would swap out DTC-60s and HP+ regularly on the fronts. This was our experience with Hawk pads as well, they seem to play fairly well together. Worst case we'd do a few 0-60-0 runs to 'bed the pads' and clean the rotors but we never had issues. We also did a quick brakleen spray and wipe down between swaps, whether it did anything...
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Jul 29, 2022 10:49
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NitroSpazzz posted:This was our experience with Hawk pads as well, they seem to play fairly well together. Worst case we'd do a few 0-60-0 runs to 'bed the pads' and clean the rotors but we never had issues. We also did a quick brakleen spray and wipe down between swaps, whether it did anything... This would be ideal if you had fixed calipers and if I ever upgrade the Volkzda to big brakes this is what I'll try to do. The other thing to think about with rotor swapping isn't just pad material because if you are running stock or stock adjacent rotors on track they're probably getting cooked and it could have an adverse effect on your street pads life/noise/etc.
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Jul 30, 2022 01:21
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That is decidedly car dependant re stock rotors. I'm in a miata and use the cheapest white box rotors I can find, and I can't remember how many sets of DTC-60s I've run through on a single set of rotors. They still measure within spec, no runout, no signs of cracks. I'm replacing them with my next set of DTC-60s cause they're a bit grooved at this point. I'm pushing enough at this point that my times are not far off from the spec miata lap record, so it's not like I'm easy on the brakes. FWIW, I run DTC-60s all around on track, and hp+ front / DTC-60s in the rear for street / autocross. I'm sure it'd be better if I ran HP+ on the rears, but it's a miata and the rears don't do all that much and are a PITA to do pad swaps because of the ebrake setup. I ran HP+ for I think my first 4 events, at which point I was driving around the brake fade by the 10 minute mark in the session (with typ 200 fluid). After a day's worth of sessions one of the front pads disintegrated so I drove home on a metal backing plate 
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Jul 30, 2022 02:01
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Anyone have experience with headrest gopro mount setups? For spirited street use and one of the smaller hero cameras. Last time I did it with a hockey stick and some u-bolts but I misplaced that at some point and was wondering if anyone has tried an off the shelf example. Going to be listing some cars and want to have good driving videos.
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Jul 31, 2022 16:39
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KillHour posted:Here are my two best sessions from last weekend. Car had a lot of overheating issues, but I think I still put down a few decent times. Sad I couldn't get to the 2:10 mark on the second day but I think it was just too hot for the poor car. Definitely appreciate any feedback on what I'm loving up (other than my heel-toe I know that is absolutely horrid. I need to get new pedal covers because holy poo poo is it bad in this car). Yes. The Steeda pedals are cool and good. I have a set for my ST and it makes a huge positive difference. I only put on the throttle but that's the only one you need. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-1...VQaAlIOEALw_wcB
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Aug 1, 2022 01:40
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I was looking at those but people are saying it's dangerous because of how close it is to the brake pedal. Ideally I'd like something to make it longer so I can hit it with my heel, not necessarily much wider.
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Aug 1, 2022 02:02
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KillHour posted:I was looking at those but people are saying it's dangerous because of how close it is to the brake pedal. Ideally I'd like something to make it longer so I can hit it with my heel, not necessarily much wider. Closer can be fine too. It's a trade off thing. Longer would be a pedal cover. Sometimes a little of both is the answer. Pedal, seat, and wheel position are a very I'm tuning the car for a specific driver thing. Nailing that, and making the car easier for YOU to drive let's you focus more on the driving and less on the mechanical steps to achieve what you want. I know in the cars i have gotten to track if i try to do the rotate the foot heel toe my knee winds up in the dash and it's a mess. When I get the gas and brake closer I can roll my foot over to blip and I prefer that. It does make it possible to hit gas and brake at the same time but I got used to where I wanted my feet and it works well. Option C, there may be an auto blip upgrade for that car. Drive by wire means the ecu could handle your Rev matching. I have not tried this myself as an upgrade. It's drat neat on the 370z though.
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Aug 1, 2022 02:18
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Anyone else racing at Thompson in CT this weekend? I'll be in the #924 Crapple Computer 1987 Porsche 924s  Same team last year minus 1 driver, we also did NHMS Lemon's in October and had a clutch failure on test day, followed by 13 laps and a second clutch failure (used parts, never again). OG Clutch failure Friday in testing:  Clutch #2 "lightly used" that we stayed up til 1AM Friday installing after 13 laps Saturday morning: 
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Aug 3, 2022 18:11
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That's terrible luck.
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Aug 4, 2022 21:31
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Car had a few breakdowns but we checkered 5th out of 13 cars entered in C class. Our fastest time out of all our drivers was a 1:30. I was doing no better than 1:39 in practice Friday but after a track walk (didn't do one last year) and some input from teammates I got my time down to a 1:33.
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Aug 9, 2022 17:00
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Oof 924/944 clutches *suck*. I've been racing Spec944 for the past 2 years ask me how I know. I was super happy to see your car in the Lemons social photos. RE: brakes, I use this when changing pads to clean up rotors and get a new transfer layer: https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Research-Flex-Hone-Rotors-Medium/dp/B007INTE3Q
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Aug 13, 2022 07:29
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I'm heading out to a track day event at Thunderhill Friday and it's going to be hot, I forgot how bad it gets out there. Any tips for making a 95+ day out there bearable? This is a first time Novice group, so I don't expect to be pushing the car too hard.
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Aug 14, 2022 16:05
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Bring water. No more. More. Probably just an entire cooler full of ice and water TBH. Also, a hat. You will be surprised how much time is just spent hanging around. Pop up tents are nice, but make sure you have spare wheels or cinder blocks to tie it down just because it's hot doesn't mean it's not windy. Other than that, have fun!
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Aug 14, 2022 17:28
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Also recommend sugar-free sports drinks. You will be sweating and need to replace electrolytes, too. Find somewhere shaded and make a friend. Most people at a track day will be happy to let you park a chair under their canopy.
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Aug 14, 2022 19:10
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Anyone got an amazing way to get wheel weight adhesive off? Currently letting penetrating oil soak into the glue. Thought there might be a new trick.
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Aug 14, 2022 22:02
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Goo-Gone and a plastic spudger is my usual go-to. Mainly the Goo-Gone. Never Goof-Off though.
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Aug 15, 2022 23:08
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3M specialty adhesive remover
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Aug 17, 2022 19:13
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I'm going over the checklist for this weekend one last time and had a total brain fart - I have no tow hook. Mazda gave me convenient screw in bumper spots with plastic covers and a foam cutout in the trunk where two tow eyes should be. Every other car I've owned came with one and I was so sure this one did too, it looks like they've been removing these at port for a while. Is this a big deal at all for an A novice group? There's no nasty gravel or anything where I'm going, just pavement and some packed and very dry dirt.
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Aug 18, 2022 04:59
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See if you can find a tow hook that screws into the spot, not sure if general parts stores carry this stuff or not but worth checking. If you don't have a tow hook and need a tow they'll have to use suspension points or something else which may or may not play nice with bodywork. You shouldn't need it but I'd much rather have it and not need it than the other way around.
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Aug 18, 2022 09:52
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My dumb usdm evo doesn’t even have a hole to put a front tow hook so be thankful you even have that!
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Aug 18, 2022 12:54
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