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Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Oof, that sounds awful.

But yeah I dunno. If the filter knob works, I'm pretty sure the problem must be between its wiper and VOut. Q4's responsible for making up the loss in volume caused by the clipping and the tone stages, so either that's busted or there's a short somewhere bypassing it. Maybe C18 to the volume wiper? No idea how the board looks on the trace side so I'm just guessing based on the layout.

But 100% guessing here.

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Elissimpark
May 20, 2010

Bring me the head of Auguste Escoffier.
See, that's the kinda analysis I can't do yet. Even for a guess, its better than my "sure are a lot of arrows on this here line-y picture".

I'll have a look at the things in that part of the board.

Thanks!

ynohtna
Feb 16, 2007

backwoods compatible
Illegal Hen
My first reaction would be to re-clean the board and go hunting for solder whiskers or a component lead that I'd missed soldering while thinking of something else.

free Trapt CD
Aug 22, 2013

*~:coffeepal:~*
I've got plenty of java
and Chesterfield Kings

*~:h:~*

Elissimpark posted:

I'm currently catching up on all the DIY pedal kits I bought a year ago and I'm currently testing a Swollen Pickle clone (this, if you're interested: https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/product/gherkin)

All the fancy fuzzy, scoop-y, crunch-y knobs are working and it makes noise, but the volume doesn't seem to do anything. I thought it wasn't doing anything at all until I maxed the volume on my audio interface and its seems to be responding fine.

My electronics knowledge is not fantastic, but I can't why it would produce a signal but not amplify it. It feels if the volume isn't working then it wouldn't make any noise.

Would anyone be able to provide some insight?

This may seem like an insultingly simple suggestion, but I've hosed up the volume pot before with accidental solder bridges between legs etc., and there's also the possibility that the part itself might have broken I guess? Rare of course.

If your output is extremely low-volume but still fuzzed-up as it's supposed to be I'd suspect that might have something to do with it, or potentially a solder bridge between the 'G' and 'OU' pads connected to the ribbon cable.

What does it sound like after you turned up the interface volume? Clean, distorted? What about when bypassed?

Elissimpark
May 20, 2010

Bring me the head of Auguste Escoffier.

free Trapt CD posted:

This may seem like an insultingly simple suggestion, but I've hosed up the volume pot before with accidental solder bridges between legs etc., and there's also the possibility that the part itself might have broken I guess? Rare of course.

If your output is extremely low-volume but still fuzzed-up as it's supposed to be I'd suspect that might have something to do with it, or potentially a solder bridge between the 'G' and 'OU' pads connected to the ribbon cable.

What does it sound like after you turned up the interface volume? Clean, distorted? What about when bypassed?

Turning up the interface volume gave me the fuzz tone, the knobs all seemed to be working as I could hear the changes in the fuzz. The LEDs were doing their thing - that's why I turned up the volume in the first place, because they were obviously responding to the dynamics of my bass. Bypass was clean, normal volume tone.

Not insulting in the slightest - its easy to overlook stuff like that sometimes. The pots weren't soldered in - for some reason when I soldered it up last year I decided install the pots in the enclosure and then slide the pcb onto the pot legs but hadn't soldered them.

I couldn't see any bridges between the 'g' and 'ou' pads or anything similar elsewhere.

In a stroke of brilliance, I decided to remove the transistors as I couldn't test them easily on the board. Transistors are fine, however I may have hosed the pcb trying to get the solder out of the holes. My sucker wasn't being particularly effecttive and I can never get wick to work like it does on YouTube, so I may have burnt off one of the little rings. Joy.

Things I have learnt: always use those little socket things for transistors, rather than soldering them directly to the board. gently caress desoldering.

Major Operation
Jan 1, 2006

I was looking around the internet for better instructions on installing Graphtech Ratio tuners for a Warmoth guitar I am (slowly) assembling. I think maybe Graphtech has a patent on the progressive gear ratios in tuning machines? Although they offer a variety of plates for retrofitting an existing guitar with tuners already screwed down, I'm going to need to do some drilling for the alignment pins because I'll be installing on a new neck.

Ended up on the Graphtech YouTube page and their header image caught my attention:


Like, OK, I get it... an image of someone carefully measuring a nut blank isn't going to be very exciting for a header image. But what was the thought process on this one?

Anyways, I did eventually find a helpful video of someone doing the install I was looking for. I've done two sets of 6 in-line tuner installs before but not in this style, with the dual alignment pins. For vintage style tuners I was able to use a straight edge to get all 6 aligned and then taped them down while I drilled screw holes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQiJetIUD4A

MettleRamiel
Jun 29, 2005

Major Operation posted:

I was looking around the internet for better instructions on installing Graphtech Ratio tuners for a Warmoth guitar I am (slowly) assembling. I think maybe Graphtech has a patent on the progressive gear ratios in tuning machines? Although they offer a variety of plates for retrofitting an existing guitar with tuners already screwed down, I'm going to need to do some drilling for the alignment pins because I'll be installing on a new neck.

Ended up on the Graphtech YouTube page and their header image caught my attention:


Like, OK, I get it... an image of someone carefully measuring a nut blank isn't going to be very exciting for a header image. But what was the thought process on this one?

Anyways, I did eventually find a helpful video of someone doing the install I was looking for. I've done two sets of 6 in-line tuner installs before but not in this style, with the dual alignment pins. For vintage style tuners I was able to use a straight edge to get all 6 aligned and then taped them down while I drilled screw holes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQiJetIUD4A

I mean, that's pretty much spot on the face I make when I'm about to carfully measure how much I nut

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Any idea what musical equipment I can make with these?



Arduino Uno, Uno R3, Mega 2560, and what appears to be a Raspberry Po display shield. Plus a bunch of random-rear end components and parts:



Maybe I could load Mutable Instruments onto one of the Arduinos…?

snorch
Jul 27, 2009
The Mutable modules are generally built around the STM32 chips and you'd have a tough time porting the firmware to atmega.

I think Arduinos are best for controller applications. They have a bunch of ADC pins you can use to read knobs, sensors, etc. and running on 5V makes outputting MIDI super easy with nothing but a couple of 220 ohm resistors.

https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/communication/Midi

If you search you can also find full-fledged MIDI libraries out there that make putting together messages a lot simpler.

Or you could try generating sound with them, there are plenty of synth projects out there to draw from, though they're mostly pretty lo-fi due to the PWM output and necessarily low sample rates.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Hmm, pulse output makes me think of clock, gates, and sequencing. Unfortunately I'm not sure if I can use them to DIY a Turing machine, but I'm sure there's some module I can make. I'll think it over, thanks!

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Oh yeah:



:cool:

Elissimpark
May 20, 2010

Bring me the head of Auguste Escoffier.
Long shot here, but has anyone had experience installing an Artec 'mudbucker' bass pick up?

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Elissimpark posted:

Long shot here, but has anyone had experience installing an Artec 'mudbucker' bass pick up?

Installing how? Are you replacing the stock pickup on a recent Gibson/Epiphone or doing something else like routing out a Precision and throwing it in the neck position?

They're supposed to be constructed a lot closer to the original Gibson pickups and sound more like them that Gibson's current ones, which are more like Thunderbird pickups under fancy covers.

Elissimpark
May 20, 2010

Bring me the head of Auguste Escoffier.

DrChu posted:

Installing how? Are you replacing the stock pickup on a recent Gibson/Epiphone or doing something else like routing out a Precision and throwing it in the neck position?

They're supposed to be constructed a lot closer to the original Gibson pickups and sound more like them that Gibson's current ones, which are more like Thunderbird pickups under fancy covers.

The pick up 'set' is a cover, which screws to the bass, and the magnet/coils/poles bit which sits under it. The coils don't have a way of being fixed to the bass or the cover, so it's not exactly clear how it should be installed.

I've googled about but no-one seems to have pics of what they're doing to keep the coils in place. It's usually 'here's the hole I routed - oops, pick up installed!'

I could just jam it in place with foam but I that seems inelegant.

Kingo Ligma
Aug 24, 2019

Ask me about calling people racist because I failed geography.

Elissimpark posted:

The pick up 'set' is a cover, which screws to the bass, and the magnet/coils/poles bit which sits under it. The coils don't have a way of being fixed to the bass or the cover, so it's not exactly clear how it should be installed.

I've googled about but no-one seems to have pics of what they're doing to keep the coils in place. It's usually 'here's the hole I routed - oops, pick up installed!'

I could just jam it in place with foam but I that seems inelegant.

Jazzmaster pickups are the same arrangement and literally sit on foam which compresses when you screw the pickup down

Elissimpark
May 20, 2010

Bring me the head of Auguste Escoffier.

Kingo Ligma posted:

Jazzmaster pickups are the same arrangement and literally sit on foam which compresses when you screw the pickup down

I did not know that. All the pick ups I've handled (which, to be fair, is not many) were ensconced securely in their cover. Do the jazzmasters have springs on the screws, or is it foam all the way?

Either way, that makes everything easier. I've got heaps of foam lying about!

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Elissimpark posted:

The pick up 'set' is a cover, which screws to the bass, and the magnet/coils/poles bit which sits under it. The coils don't have a way of being fixed to the bass or the cover, so it's not exactly clear how it should be installed.

I've googled about but no-one seems to have pics of what they're doing to keep the coils in place. It's usually 'here's the hole I routed - oops, pick up installed!'

I could just jam it in place with foam but I that seems inelegant.

Jamming foam under a bass pickup is pretty common practice. That's how Precision and Jazz Bass pickups work as well. Some product descriptions for the Artec even mention it - https://tlcguitargoods.com/en/artec-mudbucker-basgitaar-pickup-brug-chroom.html

quote:

These pups require a cavity of at least 66x48mm with a depth of 20-30mm. The buckers are non-splitable and are best mounted with a piece of pickup foam. The screws for the cover are included.

Elissimpark
May 20, 2010

Bring me the head of Auguste Escoffier.

DrChu posted:

Jamming foam under a bass pickup is pretty common practice. That's how Precision and Jazz Bass pickups work as well. Some product descriptions for the Artec even mention it - https://tlcguitargoods.com/en/artec-mudbucker-basgitaar-pickup-brug-chroom.html

Oh, yeah, I've got foam under the J's in my current bass, it just seemed a unweildy way to keep the coils and magnet in the cover.

I wish more websites would have useful information like that. That's pretty handy if you're looking to buy online.

Kingo Ligma
Aug 24, 2019

Ask me about calling people racist because I failed geography.

Elissimpark posted:

I did not know that. All the pick ups I've handled (which, to be fair, is not many) were ensconced securely in their cover. Do the jazzmasters have springs on the screws, or is it foam all the way?

Either way, that makes everything easier. I've got heaps of foam lying about!

Weirdly enough I've had jazzmasters with and without screws, I tend to put them on though

Kingo Ligma fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Aug 6, 2022

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Pollyanna posted:

Hmm, pulse output makes me think of clock, gates, and sequencing. Unfortunately I'm not sure if I can use them to DIY a Turing machine, but I'm sure there's some module I can make. I'll think it over, thanks!

Actually, you know what? I need a looper and a tuner. That should be completely possible.

EDIT: Nope, the Uno, Uno R3, and Mega 2560 are too low power to handle anything audio related. That's not gonna work. Hmm.

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Aug 6, 2022

ynohtna
Feb 16, 2007

backwoods compatible
Illegal Hen
This is the new hotness for audio DSP hacking, Pollyanna: https://www.electro-smith.com

(They also do good a VCO submodule if you've still got an itch in that direction.)

snorch
Jul 27, 2009
You could probably use them well as crusher/mangler FX, lower sample rates are still perfectly within reach. Once upon a time Mutable had an atmega-based synth called Shruthi which had a sample rate of 32ish khz using nothing but the PWM output, that required some trickery to achieve but I'm sure you can find similar implementations in some Arduino audio projects.

There's also FM and speech synthesis stuff you can explore.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


ynohtna posted:

This is the new hotness for audio DSP hacking, Pollyanna: https://www.electro-smith.com

(They also do good a VCO submodule if you've still got an itch in that direction.)

Ngghggghghhgghggggg want. But I want to use up what I already have before buying anything (says the rear end in a top hat who already has a couple orders coming in from Digikey and Amplified Parts).

snorch posted:

You could probably use them well as crusher/mangler FX, lower sample rates are still perfectly within reach. Once upon a time Mutable had an atmega-based synth called Shruthi which had a sample rate of 32ish khz using nothing but the PWM output, that required some trickery to achieve but I'm sure you can find similar implementations in some Arduino audio projects.

There's also FM and speech synthesis stuff you can explore.

Sequencing, gate fuckery, and general logic might work for them. Especially since I don’t have any physical generative sequencing. Maybe I can turn one of these into a Euclidean rhythm generator or a Turing machine?

Boody
Aug 15, 2001

Pollyanna posted:

Ngghggghghhgghggggg want. But I want to use up what I already have before buying anything (says the rear end in a top hat who already has a couple orders coming in from Digikey and Amplified Parts).

Sequencing, gate fuckery, and general logic might work for them. Especially since I don’t have any physical generative sequencing. Maybe I can turn one of these into a Euclidean rhythm generator or a Turing machine?

Mozzi might be working looking at, or the arduino tone library - https://sensorium.github.io/Mozzi/

Alternatively the arduino midi library https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/communication/Midi - Should be easy to find examples of arpeggiators, sequencers, etc.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Mozzi looks interesting, actually. Hmmmmmmmm. Could be a voice module. I'll take a look, thanks!

snorch
Jul 27, 2009


Finally getting this old project off the backburner.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.




Sigh, here we go.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

snorch posted:



Finally getting this old project off the backburner.

:dudsmile:Sax-a-ma-phone

MettleRamiel
Jun 29, 2005

snorch posted:



Finally getting this old project off the backburner.

Details, please

snorch
Jul 27, 2009
Basically I want to build a synthesizer that looks and plays like a saxophone. This has been my obsession for a couple years now, and so far I've got physical modeling synthesis working on a STM32 development board, using a Yamaha WX5 as a controller. The ultimate goal is to have it all self-contained in a single unit that can just be played casually without a whole bunch of messing around.

So now the hard part is putting together a wind controller from scratch. Right now I'm in the process of 3D printing the very first iteration. I've got the breath and lip sensing pretty much worked out, but the keys are still a big question mark. I know the fashionable thing to do is EWI-style capacitive keys but I really want something with more feel to it.

That's my sax story.

MettleRamiel
Jun 29, 2005

snorch posted:

Basically I want to build a synthesizer that looks and plays like a saxophone. This has been my obsession for a couple years now, and so far I've got physical modeling synthesis working on a STM32 development board, using a Yamaha WX5 as a controller. The ultimate goal is to have it all self-contained in a single unit that can just be played casually without a whole bunch of messing around.

So now the hard part is putting together a wind controller from scratch. Right now I'm in the process of 3D printing the very first iteration. I've got the breath and lip sensing pretty much worked out, but the keys are still a big question mark. I know the fashionable thing to do is EWI-style capacitive keys but I really want something with more feel to it.

That's my sax story.

That sounds awesome.

You need to document the build process

JamesKPolk
Apr 9, 2009

Thought I knew this, but wow, lotsa diodes

Blew one of these:
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/gs1m-tr13/micro-commercial-components

It is just doing reverse power protection, the idea is to short if I feed it negative instead of positive voltage (because, e.g., I plugged the thing in wrong). On different designs I've used schottky diodes for this I think and have spares in the right size.

Could I swap like a 1N4001 for that? I'm looking at the current and I think it should be fine? this one's rated in amps but I need like 30-50ma tops for the circuit its on

e: looking at ~datasheets~ this seems like an obvious yes, I'm gonna try and report back

petit choux
Feb 24, 2016

JamesKPolk posted:

Thought I knew this, but wow, lotsa diodes

Blew one of these:
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/gs1m-tr13/micro-commercial-components

It is just doing reverse power protection, the idea is to short if I feed it negative instead of positive voltage (because, e.g., I plugged the thing in wrong). On different designs I've used schottky diodes for this I think and have spares in the right size.

Could I swap like a 1N4001 for that? I'm looking at the current and I think it should be fine? this one's rated in amps but I need like 30-50ma tops for the circuit its on

e: looking at ~datasheets~ this seems like an obvious yes, I'm gonna try and report back

this is surface mount? Is this what you're doing now? Show us pics!

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.




So help me god I will make this thing.

Other than this PCB+panel set and another PCB I bought, I’m gonna DIY all my modules. On my shortlist are:

- Basic square wave (classical comparator-based circuit)
- VCO (SSI2131)
- Quad VCA (SSI2164)
- VCF (SSI2140)
- Clock divider (I forget but it involves op-amps)

Why am I DIYing? Because I’m a cheap motherfucker.

Oh, and I haven’t done anything involving electronics or electrical theory since physics classes in college. Wish me luck!!! :shepface:

petit choux
Feb 24, 2016

Pollyanna posted:



So help me god I will make this thing.

Other than this PCB+panel set and another PCB I bought, I’m gonna DIY all my modules. On my shortlist are:

- Basic square wave (classical comparator-based circuit)
- VCO (SSI2131)
- Quad VCA (SSI2164)
- VCF (SSI2140)
- Clock divider (I forget but it involves op-amps)

Why am I DIYing? Because I’m a cheap motherfucker.

Oh, and I haven’t done anything involving electronics or electrical theory since physics classes in college. Wish me luck!!! :shepface:


You got everything you need at your
soldering station
Make sure you have enough lighting and
magnification

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Well, I also need to know how circuits work and how to design them! I’m already confused and unsure how heavy my resistor should be between 12V and a red LED! I’m a noob!!!

Rod Hoofhearted
Jun 18, 2000

I am a ghost




Pollyanna posted:

Well, I also need to know how circuits work and how to design them! I’m already confused and unsure how heavy my resistor should be between 12V and a red LED! I’m a noob!!!

I’ve done over 20 DIY kits, half of them Befaco, and I still don’t know anything about how it all works. It’s basically the equivalent of painting by numbers. :lol:

It’s not even necessarily the cheapest way to get into eurorack any more, with all the Behringer and Dreadbox modules out there. But it sure is cool as poo poo! :thumbsup:

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


The Befaco one is gonna be easy, it’s just soldering parts. Making my own modules with just some parts and a stripboard, on the other hand…well, I’m sure goons can fill me in on the hard parts.

ynohtna
Feb 16, 2007

backwoods compatible
Illegal Hen
Befaco boards can be very tightly packed. Ganbare!

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Kvlt!
May 19, 2012





Can anyone help me with orienting this transformer? The build guide doesn't say anything about which way it should go

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