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My brother just replaced the water pump on his first-gen Colorado, and this happened: He said he started it and let it warm up, then everything came apart once he gave it some revs. Any ideas what went wrong?
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Aug 4, 2022 16:08
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given the entire tube of rtv used? assembly error. The cracks in the pump housing and the way the lower right bolt/housing chunk is bent away from the pump's main shaft would indicate something hitting the pump and hard. If the pump seized it could have cracked like that if the casting was marginal. There's not enough information here to say if it was the pump itself(is the pump shaft seized?), something adjacent that happened to have let go shortly thereafter(a/c compressor seized killing the belt, bunching it and breaking the pump?), or incorrect methods of assembly(drat that fat wad of rtv).
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Aug 4, 2022 16:18
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I can imagine a scenario where the belt jumped one pulley, the slack got wrapped around the other pulley and tightened up, and the shock load caused the housing to crack, especially if the belt had enough time to fray enough that you have loops of raw metal exposed from the belt End user may have rolled the belt on but then did not check it was fully seated before testing, and rolled back off Another vote for improper install Hadlock fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Aug 4, 2022 |
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Aug 4, 2022 16:30
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   edit: https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1602&category_id=365 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Aug 4, 2022 |
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Aug 4, 2022 17:55
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cursedshitbox posted:There's not enough information here to say if it was the pump itself(is the pump shaft seized?), something adjacent that happened to have let go shortly thereafter(a/c compressor seized killing the belt, bunching it and breaking the pump?), or incorrect methods of assembly(drat that fat wad of rtv). Counterpoint: I've had two water pumps crack like this with zero other apparent causes. One was a pump that had been in place for at least a year or more on the original SBC in my C10, the other was a newly-replaced pump on the 2.5L Pinto motor in my old Ranger. Both were possibly questionable manufacture; the SBC had a generic one from Summit racing, the Ranger was the cheapest one I could find on Rockauto. In both cases I threw a new pump on again and had no further problems. I do agree with that giant gob of RTV being a problem in the OP's case, but the pump on that Ranger was completely RTV-free, nothing but O-rings.
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Aug 4, 2022 18:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:I do agree with that giant gob of RTV being a problem in the OP's case, but the pump on that Ranger was completely RTV-free, nothing but O-rings. I don't think anyone is suggesting the RTV is the cause, just a glaring indication of level of skill and care used for reassmebly. With that kind of indication and among the other possibilities mentioned I'd guess there's a better than average chance that the gasket surface wasn't cleaned properly and/or bolts were ham fisted on in the wrong order/torque and cracked the casting.
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Aug 4, 2022 19:22
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:2 issues with my 2016 WRX Limited, manual transmission. A month left on my extended warranty, so good time for things to crap out. Subi dealership and another shop I've used before both say that my transmission release bearing is most likely toast, and while they're in there, may as well replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, shift fork, pivot ball, everything. Not covered under warranty, of course. Looking like an expensive day. gently caress. They were both surprised I got 71k out of the original clutch. No word on the battery/alternator issue yet.
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Aug 4, 2022 20:15
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Motronic posted:I don't think anyone is suggesting the RTV is the cause, just a glaring indication of level of skill and care used for reassmebly. With that kind of indication and among the other possibilities mentioned I'd guess there's a better than average chance that the gasket surface wasn't cleaned properly and/or bolts were ham fisted on in the wrong order/torque and cracked the casting. This is exactly what I was going to say - I feel like there's something under the flange in a spot or two and the cracks are from tightening the bolts. I could be wrong, but...
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Aug 5, 2022 00:27
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Subi dealership and another shop I've used before both say that my transmission release bearing is most likely toast, and while they're in there, may as well replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, shift fork, pivot ball, everything. Not covered under warranty, of course. Looking like an expensive day. gently caress. From dealership: - Battery is toast (it's 10 days old) - Alternator is good - Starter is good Tried to warranty the battery again for a different brand at AutoZone 30 minutes later, and they ran their own test: - Battery is good - Alternator is good - Starter is good  Getting my whole clutch assembly replaced tomorrow at a different shop.
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Aug 5, 2022 01:05
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Subi dealership and another shop I've used before both say that my transmission release bearing is most likely toast, and while they're in there, may as well replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, shift fork, pivot ball, everything. Not covered under warranty, of course. Looking like an expensive day. gently caress. They were surprised you made it to 71k? I'd been driving manual most of my life until recently; I've never worn a clutch out (I've had clutches outlast transmissions...). Now I HAVE replaced clutches if the transmission was already off, just because they're wear items and the labor has already been done at that point anyway. I agree the disc and pressure plate should be replaced with it (unless the clutch is pretty much new, I always replace them if the transmission is coming off), flywheel could be resurfaced if it's not a dual mass unit. But I would hope some of the labor would be warranty. 
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Aug 6, 2022 03:56
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STR posted:They were surprised you made it to 71k? I'd been driving manual most of my life until recently; I've never worn a clutch out (I've had clutches outlast transmissions...). Now I HAVE replaced clutches if the transmission was already off, just because they're wear items and the labor has already been done at that point anyway. Nothing was covered under warranty. The dude said I could call up Subaru of America and try to plead for some help, but meh. I declined a full transmission tear down because dealership labor is a ripoff, and called up my preferred shop, who quoted me a grand under what the dealership wanted for everything. I brought it to my preferred shop today and got the whole clutch kit/flywheel/everything swapped out for $2200. When I picked up the car, he told me not to start it, and just adjust my seat and play with the clutch for a minute or so. And then when I do start it, to not try to feather the gas; rather slowly let the clutch out and let it catch first, then give it some gas. He said most people stall out after a new clutch. And holy loving poo poo he was right. I pushed the clutch in for the first time and felt like I stomped it to the floor. I never realized just how tough my clutch pedal was to push in at the end. This thing feels like a brand new car. I dropped it off at 730am and it was done by 3pm. e: I stalled out twice picking my daughter up from a friends house tonight. It’s crazy how different a new clutch is. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Aug 6, 2022 |
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Aug 6, 2022 04:30
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I have a stupid question and didn’t see a more appropriate thread to ask in. My family used to own a 1974 F250. It was the dedicated farm truck. Was bought new at the time, never left the farm, was definitely a work truck but was well taken care of. I was out of the country for a few months in 2004 and the truck and all farm equipment was sold. I want the truck back. I have no real reason other than it was part of my childhood and I always thought it was the coolest truck ever. Unfortunately my grandmother, who sold it, is long gone so I can’t ask her who bought it. If by some miracle I am able to locate the VIN in some old paperwork, how feasible is it to attempt to find this truck and how would I even begin?
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Aug 6, 2022 17:58
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Without detailed records of who it was sold to you're not going to have much fun. My biggest suggestion is to contact whomever holds the farm property now and ask if they know anything. You can look up a name on the county tax office website (usually it'll have an ArcGIS map if you need it) and contact them to ask. If they don't have it they may know if it got sold or if they're not who your family sold it to they may know nothing Good luck
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Aug 6, 2022 18:19
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We still own the property, just the equipment was sold. But that's more or less what I was expecting to hear. 
BrianM87 fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Aug 6, 2022 |
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Aug 6, 2022 18:23
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Do you know the license plate? If the plate stays with the car in your state, you can try punching it in to one of those "we buy your car" type sites and see what happens. Edit: Edmunds has an appraise your car section. That'll tell you if the plate is still the same.
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Aug 6, 2022 19:03
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Nothing was covered under warranty. The dude said I could call up Subaru of America and try to plead for some help, but meh. I declined a full transmission tear down because dealership labor is a ripoff, and called up my preferred shop, who quoted me a grand under what the dealership wanted for everything. Sucks about the warranty, but good that you have a shop you can trust. And yeah a new clutch is a complete night and day difference. Take everything you knew about driving your own car and throw it out the window until the new one breaks in/you get used to it. The way he advised to drive it at first is how I drive a car I'm not used to for a bit.
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Aug 6, 2022 19:07
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BrianM87 posted:I have a stupid question and didn’t see a more appropriate thread to ask in. If you have pictures and VIN you might be able to post in local car facebook groups to track it down, isn't likely but you never know.
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Aug 6, 2022 19:31
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Trawl the local markets. If its something like CA where the plate stays with the car you *might* be able to track it down with the vin/plate. I had luck with that a couple times. The alternative is to buy one similar and run with it.
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Aug 6, 2022 19:49
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Thanks for the suggestions. It was an incredibly unsatisfying day of phone calls all over the small town the truck was in. Found the guy that bought it (Well, found his wife. He died last year from covid). Turns out he was an acquaintance of the family. He went off into a ditch with the truck in 2018, wrecked it bad enough that he decided it wasn't worth trying to fix. Sold it for scrap. Unable to find where he sold it to because his wife didn't know. SHe was happy to help as much as she could. Sucks that my childhood memory got trashed like that but oh well. I also happened to find pretty much the same truck for sale. Has the exact same camper shell on it, but it's a 1973 instead of 74, and the colors for the roof and body are switched. Seriously considering it but I definitely don't need it.
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Aug 7, 2022 01:32
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Shame it was wrecked. You'd be better off starting over than trying to unfuck one that had been badly crashed.
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Aug 7, 2022 01:35
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My dad sold all his stuff in a farm auction in 90s. About 15 yrs later he walks into the town Tim Hortons and one of the guys there says “you know that old Ford tractor I bought from you? It burnt up on me this morning”. Shortly thereafter my brother became the proud owner of a half burnt Ford 5600. It was repaired and repainted and is currently powering a grain auger.
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Aug 7, 2022 01:51
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Car battery chargers - are they by and large worth it? And what kind of schedule should I charge on based on my usage? Partner and I have 2 cars, a 1993 Toyota Corolla and a 2017 Honda Jazz/Fit. We only need to use one at a time as I work from home, so we alternate which one is sitting in the garage and which is ready to use in the driveway. Typically we swap them over once every month/couple of months, however it's not on a set schedule (although we should really try to do it more regularly). The one that's out is a daily driver, we only very rarely have separate things going on where both would be in use (frankly when her car finally dies I've half a mind to just stick to having one car). Is a charger warranted in our situation? And is there a rough pricepoint where there's diminishing returns in terms of cost/quality? Based on the above how often should we be charging the car that's in the garage?
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Aug 7, 2022 06:34
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We are in a similar situation but I drive the secondary car once a week I would just pull the negative battery wire off and set it to the side so nothing is draining the battery. Probably a bigger problem for the 2017 Fit than the 90s toyota. Lead acid batteries are more than happy to sit a month at a time without use. Would not let the engine sit more than 30 days without letting it run at least 10 min to fully warm up and cycle. I try and put half a tank of gas through mine a month to keep everything fresh.
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Aug 7, 2022 07:02
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Letting it run for just 10 minutes is worse than not running it. Yeah the coolant comes up to temp, but the oil doesn't. You wind up with water (from condensation) in the oil. Throw some Sta-bil in the gas and fill it up, pull the negative cable. It'll be fine for several months. Or drive it for half an hour each time.
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Aug 7, 2022 07:10
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When you have to replace the batteries in those two next it might also be worth it to get an AGM battery, those generally handle discharging better than conventional flooded batteries. That's all I get up here in the mountains because the cold will destroy flooded batteries fairly quickly and while you can get them replaced on warranty it's a pain in the rear end to deal with because they always die in a single digit temperature blizzard. Optimas are the gucci brand but any parts store will have their own store brand AGM. E: My own stupid question. With a freshly rebuilt manual, is it common for reverse to be a bit grindier/notchier than with a broken in manual? My truck's transmission got rebuilt about 3-5000 miles ago and it grinds a bit going into reverse. Not into any of the forward gears. The newest manual I've ever driven before that was 116k miles old so I don't have a frame of reference. I guess I've also driven a freshly rebuilt Samurai but that thing has like 30 horsepower at this elevation since some dumbass put a carb on it tuned for sea level, not sure if that would make a difference vs a fuel injected 350. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 12:36
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Breetai posted:Car battery chargers - are they by and large worth it? And what kind of schedule should I charge on based on my usage? To add to the above: You can install a battery terminal switch right at the battery, where 1/4-turn opens the circuit. This saves wear & tear on the battery clamps, which are notorious for getting fucky when installed/uninstalled frequently. An alternative is to use a trickle charger. They're cheap, small & light and do not draw much. Biggest problem is driving off with it plugged in.
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Aug 7, 2022 14:44
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I've got a battery tender I use for this, the really cheap $30 one and it's great. You get quick disconnect pigtails for them. I have one wired to my accord with the business end hanging out the front bumper. Keeps it topped up without losing all the clock and radio settings etc.
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Aug 7, 2022 16:24
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Hadlock posted:We are in a similar situation but I drive the secondary car once a week Like STR said you're doing more harm than good. Just leave it on a tender and don't start it unless you're actually going to drive it.
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Aug 7, 2022 18:18
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Anyone have luck with after market blind spot monitoring systems? More trouble than they’re worth if they dont come factory? This would be for a 2012 Acura TSX.
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Aug 7, 2022 19:00
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If it's 95F how long does it take a 4 cyl 2L engine to come up to temp I know iron has a tremendous amount of heat capacity but I feel like the heat soak at 95F is a lot different than say michigan in the winter
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Aug 8, 2022 00:25
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Hadlock posted:If it's 95F how long does it take a 4 cyl 2L engine to come up to temp A hell of a lot longer than 10 minutes. And even longer after it's up to temp to actually drive water out of the oil. You're just wrong, take the L here and learn from it.
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Aug 8, 2022 01:00
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You generally need to drive a car, get the engine in it's normal rev range and under load to get the oil to do its work, which will do more to heat it up then just absorbing heat through other parts of the engine
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Aug 8, 2022 07:52
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Don't think it's a problem but: Car sat all weekend. It was very humid. Driving to work this morning, I tapped the AC and a bunch of what look like steam came out. Let it go for about 15 seconds, turned it off for a minute, turned it back on, nothing. Didn't smell anything. Seemed to cool just fine. I'm guessing a bunch of water build-up getting blown out?
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Aug 8, 2022 13:15
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Uthor posted:Don't think it's a problem but: yes
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Aug 8, 2022 13:30
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Hadlock posted:If it's 95F how long does it take a 4 cyl 2L engine to come up to temp A surprisingly long time. Driving a car with aftermarket oil and water temp gauges vs the stock temp gauge about 3x when your dash says normal. Weather will effect that too. Uthor posted:Don't think it's a problem but: https://youtu.be/CQGW46B6x_4 Basically your car hit the spot where you can see your breath in the winter, it's fine.
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Aug 8, 2022 13:34
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Well, this was more informative than I expected it to be.
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Aug 8, 2022 13:47
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honda whisperer posted:A surprisingly long time. Driving a car with aftermarket oil and water temp gauges vs the stock temp gauge about 3x when your dash says normal. Weather will effect that too. Installing aftermarket gauges was eye opening for me, not only in comparing water temp to the dumbed down factory gauge, but also in how long it actually takes for oil to get hot. Also watching an oil pressure gauge actually move. But I fully get why they dampen them so much, because if OEM gauges did this so many people would get scared of something moving and just inundate the dealers.
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Aug 8, 2022 14:39
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Also to mention when running open loop the engine management commands running pig rich. Not taking it out for a drive cycle leads to oil dilution with fuel. This wrecks rings, piston skirts, and Babbitt bearings. The other fun one is damped temperature gauges. Needle reads dead center while the engine's boiling over. Way to go, Germany and England.
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Aug 8, 2022 15:30
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opengl128 posted:Also watching an oil pressure gauge actually move. But I fully get why they dampen them so much, because if OEM gauges did this so many people would get scared of something moving and just inundate the dealers. I see this as a self-fulfilling prophesy, if every car just made the gauge work like it's supposed to people would know that's normal because every car does it, but the bullshit idiot gauges have been around long enough that people think that's normal. Most cars I've owned, even those with idiot gauges, have a range indicated on the gauge as "normal". That's clear enough, the kind of person who is going to complain past that is the kind of person who's just going to complain about something else.
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Aug 8, 2022 16:18
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I think early miatas did have okish oil pressure gauges and they got updated to idiot gauges after a sea of complaints. And yeah putting good ones in cars always turned into a week of calls "omg it did this is it ok what happened"
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Aug 8, 2022 18:58
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