|
Loden Taylor posted:I didn't know those were coming back. I'm going to have to grab a few when they drop because that sudden jump in size kinda bugs me. I remember the gesso craze. So dumb. 😂
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 03:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 15:50 |
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:I remember the gesso craze. Oh man, that brings back some memories. I remember way back then, thinking about actually buying clear gesso, intending on mixing it with whatever color paint I had to make my own "custom primer". Then I came to my senses and bought an airbrush (a crappy one, it was one of those Testor ones that used canned air) instead. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 04:56
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:Oh man, that brings back some memories. I remember way back then, thinking about actually buying clear gesso, intending on mixing it with whatever color paint I had to make my own "custom primer". Then I came to my senses and bought an airbrush (a crappy one, it was one of those Testor ones that used canned air) instead. what the hell
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 05:03
|
|
|
punishedkissinger posted:what the hell This was back in 2008-2009, when I knew bugger all about airbrushes. And to be fair, once I figured out I had to put the can in a bowl of hot water so it wouldn't get as cold as fast, the crappy Testor airbrush actually put down a pretty good coat of primer. I did eventually just switch back to rattlecans, though. E: Found some pics of stuff I had painted up from around then, some Crimson Fists I had painted up during December 2008, when I was snowed in for a few days and had plenty of time to get painting done.  
Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Aug 6, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 05:09
|
|
|
First time sculpting a plaguebearer I'll sink the spine/skull much lower after this cures.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 05:14
|
|
|
Those cans of air are real nice during a hot summer, though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 06:11
|
|
|
Jobbo_Fett posted:Left doggo should only have silver on the jaw, make it really pop out.  Still WIP but what I was thinking so far. maybe I can tear up a makeup sponge for some weathering, or maybe some panels are other colors? IDK some weathering is intimidating for me cause I'm always worried i'll mess it up and it'll look bad
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 18:24
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:First time sculpting a plaguebearer Incredible. I'm in awe of your skill, for real
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 19:06
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:The opposite of what I need lol, they're 360° vids. please tell me you have the pointy bit busiting out of the ground as another piece?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2022 22:05
|
|
|
 Broke a two-month no-painting streak with some quick evil knighty boys. Gonna run them as Varanguard in Age of Sigmar.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 00:23
|
|
|
War and Pieces posted:please tell me you have the pointy bit busiting out of the ground as another piece? Of course!  I'm still trying to figure out what to do design wise. a7m2 posted:Incredible. I'm in awe of your skill, for real Thanks! Believe it or not I'm a complete novice. I also just broke the plaguebearers legs. Ended up Lt Dan'ing the little guy, but thankfully I was able to install some 1mm wire so I can start building some thighs. The rear end was a little lopsided after curing so it got a few more snips as well. I've been debating what to do next. I was thinking sculpting the spine all splayed, but I realized it would just be aping the Great Unclean One model. I'm also still deciding on the arms; originally the arms were going to be slack, and the head angled off to be staring off into the distance. Now though I kind of wantit to have a blade... maybe thrust into the ground or being dragged. Maybe a giant pitted razor?
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 00:41
|
|
|
Updated WIP I've got some giant strips of skin curing right now that I'm hoping I can use to great effect. Tomorrow I'll start working on the arms and the neck/head. I'm going to need to drill a cyclopean skull socket as well. Also the kits I ordered for my Terminator 2.0 project finally arrived. Now I just need 3x primaris intercessor legs and everything will be ready to go.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 06:24
|
|
|
I'm planning on entering this diorama into a local painting comp. I'm just putting on finishing touches (fixing the skulls adding some weathering to the monster's cloak and adding some osl to the candles), wondering if there's anything I should do to make it better. E: With bigger pictures (hopefully)  
Radiation Cow fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Aug 7, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 09:13
|
|
|
It looks terrific, but those pictures are a little small. There are some very talented people in the thread, and with a bigger picture they might be able to help.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 11:58
|
|
|
Maneck posted:It looks terrific, but those pictures are a little small. There are some very talented people in the thread, and with a bigger picture they might be able to help. Thanks, no idea what went wrong with the upload the first time around.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 12:28
|
|
|
This is looking really good! A few things I'd consider: Brighter highlight on the cloth right below the knight's sword in the first picture. You have some very brights highlight on the other cloth, so this area looks a little flat. It could just be the angle. The red part of the monster's weapon feels like a focal point, so you might want to add a little something there to really make it stand out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 12:58
|
|
|
Looks great! The only critique I could come up with is that the composition could be skewed a little. Subjects on bases are more visually interesting if they don't follow the alignment of the base itself. Right now it has a very left to right alignment, following the straight lines of the base. If the characters were skewed a bit so they were off angle from the sides of the base, it make things pop a bit more. Gives the scene a bit more life as well, as if you're capturing a real scene from an interesting angle, rather than trying to "fit" a false scene onto an artificial base. It's hard to do with square rectangular bases, which is why a lot of compositions will use round bases, which don't have artificial straight lines to draw the eye. Or people often go with a natural base, make a pile of rubble, dirt, or stonework the base itself. If you do go with a square/rectangle base, it's often good to go with really clean, muted sides, surfaced with something like styrene to give it a very clean look. Or some sort of frame, or chamfered/routed styling, along the bottom edge to enhance it. Just a big black cube calls as much attention to itself as does the model on top of it. Quick photoshop jobby of what a natural base could look like: 
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 13:55
|
|
|
A lot of that diorama is really awesome. The only thing that I noticed when I first looked at it is it was hard to tell the bottom part of the monster from the base, the colours are so similar it's a little hard to differentiate the two at a glance. The top part with the red does stand out though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 15:13
|
|
|
Finished up Mournblade from Godtear! Not the highest quality model, but fun to paint nonetheless.    
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 15:58
|
|
|
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Lots of super-useful stuff, and the basing composition is incredibly interesting and something I didn't even consider. Still have a couple of days before the deadline, so I'll incorporate as much of this as possible.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 16:20
|
|
|
Loden Taylor posted:I didn't know those were coming back. I'm going to have to grab a few when they drop because that sudden jump in size kinda bugs me. I take it the hobby as a whole has figured out better solutions for brush priming where rattle cans are unreliable and airbrushes aren't feasible? Not enjoying the failure rate on rattle can priming in as ideal of conditions as it gets here, Vallejo surface primer is more than a bit streaky. (Still making progress on my stuff, just don't have anything to post currently thanks to batch painting. Considering switching to one at a time just to have less in progress at once & feel better about actually doing things, even if it makes the overall speed slower.)
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2022 17:07
|
|
|
I bought some of that refrigerator magnet stuff for the bottom of my carrying cases, but it isn't quite as strong as I'd like, the pieces slide around a bit. It's not the magnets because I stuck the miniatures on a weightlifting plate and it's a very, very strong bond. So, does anyone have a recommended brand/type of magnet sheet I could get that they know works?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 00:34
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:I bought some of that refrigerator magnet stuff for the bottom of my carrying cases, but it isn't quite as strong as I'd like, the pieces slide around a bit. It's not the magnets because I stuck the miniatures on a weightlifting plate and it's a very, very strong bond. So, does anyone have a recommended brand/type of magnet sheet I could get that they know works? Would it be feasible to just get a baking tray/baking sheet that fits the bottom of your carrying case (making sure that a magnet sticks to it, so no aluminum sheets, obviously)? Thats going to give you a better grip from the magnet than any kind of flexible fridge magnet material I think.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 00:42
|
|
|
SiKboy posted:Would it be feasible to just get a baking tray/baking sheet that fits the bottom of your carrying case (making sure that a magnet sticks to it, so no aluminum sheets, obviously)? Thats going to give you a better grip from the magnet than any kind of flexible fridge magnet material I think. it does. listen to this
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 01:32
|
|
|
SkyeAuroline posted:I take it the hobby as a whole has figured out better solutions for brush priming where rattle cans are unreliable and airbrushes aren't feasible? Not enjoying the failure rate on rattle can priming in as ideal of conditions as it gets here, Vallejo surface primer is more than a bit streaky. Yeah, from what I remember, people were using gesso because Citadel's brush-on primers at the time sucked, and people in the wargaming miniatures scene didn't discover Vallejo Surface Primers until 2010-2012 or so. As far as using Vallejo, I had problems with it streaking as well when I was trying to apply it as if it was paint. You have to apply a thicker coat than you think, and it's a little like contrast paint in that once you hit an area, it's best not to touch it again until it's dry. I get good results with a regular size 1 brush, but dabbing it on with a mop brush works well also. Plus, a streaky primer layer isn't bad - paint will still adhere to it just fine. It's just annoying if you're using a colored primer to speed up your basecoating.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 02:17
|
|
|
Loden Taylor posted:Yeah, from what I remember, people were using gesso because Citadel's brush-on primers at the time sucked, and people in the wargaming miniatures scene didn't discover Vallejo Surface Primers until 2010-2012 or so. I meant "streaky" in the sense that it's previously been very, very prone to raised ridges instead of a flat coat, which may be on account of the whole "don't touch it until it's dry" combined with "put a thicker coat than you think". Can give it another try on another mini at some point, just how I remember it going. On the flip side, revising the previous "considering" - may just stop painting entirely at this point until I can get an airbrush that will (hopefully) solve at least a few of my many problems. Going to be a few months at least until that's a financially sound choice, probably longer... but hell, it's been a mess the entire way through so far, waiting can't hurt. (Another hour of painting tonight on a set of 5 minis I'm already 5 or 6 hours in on and not yet finished with just the base coats - pretty sure I made negative progress in that hour from how many spots will need to be retouched. Thanks, metallics destroying my synthetic brushes' points so I can't do anything precision with them, and running off the rare places I can manage to be precise, without thinning them at all to make them runny. Love it.)
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 02:52
|
|
|
The baking sheet that isn't aluminum has a few problems with it, namely they're usually at least $10 and don't always come with a plastic cover or do and it costs more and can only hold so many at once, and it's only really good for models up to a certain height. The "technically" cheaper option per square foot is to get a sheet of galvanized steel and whatever size tote you want, and some steel sheers, and superglue (epoxy tends to not adhere to the plastic I buy unfortunately, or I'm not mixing it well enough and it's messy), and cut it to fit the box you want. If it's deep enough, or if you want, you can glue some more sheet metal to the bottom of the cover and double dip by holding the models upside down, or put in one of those rack things that you use in the cabinet and superglue a sheet to that if it's too tall to really utilize shelf space (that last one may be less nice if you're traveling on a plane or something with them, but that's a bridge I'll cross if I ever get to it). You'll want to spray down the edges with some sort of sealant, and it's probably a good idea to sand the edges down (or just cut it close enough that it's unlikely to cut you.) but spraying it down so the galvanized metal doesn't eventually flake (which I was told happens?) I mean, yeah, more work, but I prefer this method to spending a hundred dollars or having to figure out custom bought foam sizes or cutting it out yourself, which I've tried and is kind of a pain in the rear end, or spending $300 on someone doing the same thing but out of MDF and the metal sheets
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 03:01
|
|
|
Dollar Tree sells stainless steel baking sheets, and they're magnetic
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 03:19
|
|
|
Does anybody know where I can find a 9" round base? I've been striking out pretty hard everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 03:36
|
|
|
moths posted:Does anybody know where I can find a 9" round base? I've been striking out pretty hard everywhere. https://woodpeckerscrafts.com/9-circle-cut-out-1-8-thick-dark-edged/
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 03:40
|
|
|
Silhouette posted:Dollar Tree sells stainless steel baking sheets, and they're magnetic These are the exact ones I have, $5 https://www.target.com/p/12-x-17-non-stick-jumbo-cookie-sheet-carbon-steel-made-by-design-8482/-/A-53118950#lnk=sametab These are then placed in these $7 boxes https://www.target.com/p/28qt-clear-under-bed-storage-box-white-room-essentials-8482/-/A-80162151#lnk=sametab and they fit pretty well in there. I wouldn't fly with it, but works very well in my backseat. Doesn't fit a riptide so you'll need the taller version for big boy tall models. If you're super paranoid you can put in these magnets and the models won't budge an inch during transport. https://www.amazon.com/Fridge-Magnets-Refrigerator-Crafts-Whiteboard/dp/B09XMJBRFZ/ $20 to transport an army very well, without having to worry about fiddly bits breaking in foam transporters.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 05:07
|
|
|
Absolutely perfect, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 05:30
|
|
|
I use these magnetic adhesive sheets like you’d use to make fridge magnets or something Craftopia Magnetic Adhesive Sheets | 8" x 10" | Pack of 10 | Magnets for Crafts! - Flexible Peel and Stick Self Adhesive for Crafts Photos Stamp Dies and More (8"x10" 10 Pack) https://a.co/d/e4iyMTJ And I stick them into plastic storage bins like these Sterilite Large Plastic File Clip Box Office Storage Tote Container with Lid (24 Pack) https://a.co/d/cp6R34O Which you can also easily find at Target or whatever. They’re stackable and you can just get a taller one if you have tall models or put a strip of the magnet paper along one of the walls so tall models can go sideways. Neodymium base magnets stick very strongly to it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 15:48
|
|
|
A bit late to the brush-on primer talk, but I very recently had a eureka moment related to this after decades of painting miniatures: using sharper angle and primarily using the side instead of the tip when brushing on primer/varnish/basecoat/contrast makes the result much more smooth and less streaky. It seems obvious now, but the tip is great for lines/bands and small surface, but it is slower and gives a worse result to use to the tip as primary contact point when working with larger surfaces (such as the entire miniature). Probably a useless tip for most of you, but maybe some old dogs with habits or beginners can use this tip.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 16:06
|
|
|
Finished my first orky dude, I'll do the base after the whole unit is done. Any C&C welcome, this was my first time actually painting skin and I've been staring at this guy for so long that I can't tell anymore if it looks like butt   
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 16:21
|
|
|
Muir posted:I use these magnetic adhesive sheets like you’d use to make fridge magnets or something This is basically what I got, I bought:  With two magnets on the base it holds enough that they don't fall over and they don't slide around through normal, careful movement. They slide if the box is moved fast and they would fall over or dislodge if the case is bounced hard or turned upside down. If, on the other hand, I put them on a dumbbell plate they stick so hard I'd be worried of snapping a slender bit if I didn't pry from the torso. The thin sheets might be ok, but a (thin and cheap) cookie sheet might be in order, at least when I move beyond just traveling to the LGS. Also, while I bought some stackable boxes I had sheets left over and, on a whim, put some in the Horus Heresy boxed set box, which is very deep and very very pretty. I'm now pretty much sold on using it to hold the magnetized box contents, it will hold the preatorian with the upheld sword so it's pretty deep.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 16:22
|
|
|
Doctor Goon posted:I've been staring at this guy for so long that I can't tell anymore if it looks like butt
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 16:52
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:With two magnets on the base it holds enough that they don't fall over and they don't slide around through normal, careful movement. They slide if the box is moved fast and they would fall over or dislodge if the case is bounced hard or turned upside down. Huh, I've put this magnet paper in smaller snap-top boxes for transporting a single Warhammer Underworlds warband or Kill Team team, and I've found that one or two magnets on the base of a normal 32 mm miniature is enough to let me just put a box in a backpack and not worry about them moving in the box at all. But of course this is highly dependent on the size of magnet. I use 5mm x 2mm (3/16" x 1/16") round magnets (https://themagnetbaron.com/products/10-3-16-x-1-16-disc-super-strong-rare-earth-magnets-neodymium-n35-nicuni).
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 17:48
|
|
|
FWIW I've got a bunch of figures on magnetised bases stored in old metal biscuit/chocolate tins, and some tins I think are intended for storing like sewing materials and stuff. If you have something like that in a cupboard its absolutely great for transporting a killteam/blood bowl/necromunda sized force. Like I can turn it on its side and shake it and nothing moves (as long as the magnets have been securely attached).
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 18:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 15:50 |
|
|
Muir posted:Huh, I've put this magnet paper in smaller snap-top boxes for transporting a single Warhammer Underworlds warband or Kill Team team, and I've found that one or two magnets on the base of a normal 32 mm miniature is enough to let me just put a box in a backpack and not worry about them moving in the box at all. But of course this is highly dependent on the size of magnet. I use 5mm x 2mm (3/16" x 1/16") round magnets (https://themagnetbaron.com/products/10-3-16-x-1-16-disc-super-strong-rare-earth-magnets-neodymium-n35-nicuni). Yes 5X2 is what I bought and I'm using two. I may just be over estimating how strong the attraction needs to be, if I wave the box around briskly they slide a bit. I could also probably order a second batch and just double layer the strip? I wish I hadn't immediately applied all of them or I'd test it..
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2022 18:14
|
|