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AWESOME. One less maintenance worry. e: I now know why I couldn't drill holes for a new number plate. And that I should wear a mask the next time I try. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Aug 4, 2022 |
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Aug 4, 2022 19:27
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So, I need to drill a few things into Hardieboard. A number sign and a plant hanger, to be specific. According to James Hardie, I need "1-1/4″ No.8-18 by 3/8″ HD Hi-Lo S" screws. All I can find online (small town, hardware store doesn't have 'em) are these Backer-On screws that aren't hi-lo, aren't self-tapping, and have a head designed to drill itself flush into Hardieboard. That head is exactly what I don't want for mounting a number sign or a plant hanger. Can anybody suggest a better alternative?
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Aug 4, 2022 21:13
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Arsenic Lupin posted:So, I need to drill a few things into Hardieboard. A number sign and a plant hanger, to be specific. According to James Hardie, I need "1-1/4″ No.8-18 by 3/8″ HD Hi-Lo S" screws. All I can find online (small town, hardware store doesn't have 'em) are these Backer-On screws that aren't hi-lo, aren't self-tapping, and have a head designed to drill itself flush into Hardieboard. That head is exactly what I don't want for mounting a number sign or a plant hanger. Can anybody suggest a better alternative? Any exterior deck or construction screw will work .. The special Hardie screws are designed to countersink automatically, leaving a flush surface for finishing. That's the main difference from other good construction screws. If you still wanna use the Hardie screws to follow manufacturer guidelines, you could throw a couple washers on for better mounting possibilities
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Aug 5, 2022 13:01
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Figured this goes here over the plumbing thread. Just checking if I didn't miss anything. I'm not not-handy but stuff with water makes me want to double check. The plan: To place a standalone dishwasher to the left of my excising kitchen block:  Existing connections:  Routing plan is to run both the water supply and the drain parallel to the back wall (Purple) , there is a 5cm/2inch clearance between the wall and a thin wooden decorative backboard that would slot into the black groove:  The Dishwasher has installation and making these holes included so i'm just checking if I'm not missing anything wrt the base plan? I would ofc install a leak protector/water seal at the tap and all hoses are flexible/tubes and just above an inch wide themselves so should have the clearance. If this makes no sense at all let me know, I'm bad with visual aids. 
Zedd fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Aug 6, 2022 |
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Aug 6, 2022 00:33
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We were donating a washer/dryer yesterday, and the Humane Society guy who came to pick it up accidentally bashed it into the porch wall. No big, we'll glue the pieces back. However, while they're still exposed, I snapped a picture of the break. Not to disregard what the other guy said, but I urge caution here. My parent's house has siding that looks identical, and it is an asbestos product. They also have some newer matching tiles they've used for repair that do not contain asbestos. How old is your house? It might be worth a swab test if your house was built in the danger years. That said, if they are asbestos they're about the least dangerous embodiment of it.
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Aug 6, 2022 03:06
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TacoHavoc posted:Not to disregard what the other guy said, but I urge caution here. My parent's house has siding that looks identical, and it is an asbestos product. They also have some newer matching tiles they've used for repair that do not contain asbestos. How old is your house? It might be worth a swab test if your house was built in the danger years.
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Aug 6, 2022 16:23
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I've got a really old doorknob that seems to use #8-24 screws, which I don't have. Can you get those anywhere?
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Aug 7, 2022 06:04
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That's an odd size. Just looking at bit at mcmaster-carr, they have 8-32 and 10-24 but not 8-24 For reference, #8 is a .164" thread diameter, and 24 threads per inch appears to be more coarse-threaded than such a thin screw is made to. How did you measure or discover the size for your doorknob? Just looking a bit, and a "British Standard Whitworth" screw 3/16-24 is 0.1608 which you could probably get to work. https://britishfasteners.com/stainless-philister-screw-bsw-3-16-x-3-4-7203.html If you go this route, triple-check the sizing because the info I see isn't totally clear about which diameter that is (screws have at least two, and I've seen three listed)... If I were in your place I'd replace the doorknob.
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Aug 7, 2022 06:33
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Leperflesh posted:That's an odd size. Just looking at bit at mcmaster-carr, they have 8-32 and 10-24 but not 8-24 That would probably be the smart option, but it's been broken for years so now it feels like some kind of personal challenge. The reason I think it's #8-24 is a 10-24 screws in fine for a turn and a half until the tapered edge gets to the bigger part and it gets tight. #6 goes right through, and #8 screws in briefly, at a slight angle, like you'd expect for the threads being the wrong density. The threads also look more like 24 than 32 when I shine on a light on them.
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Aug 7, 2022 10:46
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What are all these wires that are connected to my backyard hose bib? I'm looking to swap out this old faucet for a frost free hosebib and just need to make sure that I can removed these wires without loving anything up
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Aug 7, 2022 15:35
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Shittily-installed & corroded grounds bonded to your water pipe that are barely functional any more. Find out what they're for & bond to ground somewhere else. You can drive a ground spike in right alongside or under that bib & bond them there.
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Aug 7, 2022 15:37
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NotNut posted:That would probably be the smart option, but it's been broken for years so now it feels like some kind of personal challenge. The reason I think it's #8-24 is a 10-24 screws in fine for a turn and a half until the tapered edge gets to the bigger part and it gets tight. #6 goes right through, and #8 screws in briefly, at a slight angle, like you'd expect for the threads being the wrong density. The threads also look more like 24 than 32 when I shine on a light on them. Did you check metric options?
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Aug 7, 2022 18:37
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PainterofCrap posted:Shittily-installed & corroded grounds bonded to your water pipe that are barely functional any more. Based on the box next to them probably for CATV
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Aug 7, 2022 18:57
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The left rail of the top rack of my dishwasher fell off. Here's the 'inner' slider, after removing it from the rack:   Here's the 'outer' slider, still attached to the wall of the dishwasher:   They were attached to each other at 4 points (the brown/rusted marks). Are those welds that gave up? Doesn't look like any fasteners were holding them together. The 'outer' slider is held to the wall of the dishwater with rivets, I'm not sure but I don't think I can remove it:  Can I reattached the two sliders at those same 4 points (after cleaning them) with something like JB Water Weld?
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Aug 7, 2022 19:14
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epswing posted:They were attached to each other at 4 points (the brown/rusted marks). Are those welds that gave up? Doesn't look like any fasteners were holding them together. Yes, those are spot welds. epswing posted:Can I reattached the two sliders at those same 4 points (after cleaning them) with something like JB Water Weld? No. JB Weld/epoxy is not strong in that direction (shear). No way that's gonna work. Either you can find a small/flat enough fastener to drill through and reattach (unlikely), spot weld it back together (depends on what you've got/who you know - if there's a small welding shop nearby that is/used to be the kind of thing they'd do for a 6 pack and a twenty) or you need to just put the full model number of your dishwasher into appliancepartspro or similar and figure out if that part is available. If it is it's probably fairly cheap.
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Aug 7, 2022 19:30
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I'm having a sprinkler problem. One of my drip irrigation zones has stopped working. I have a temporary solution (piggy backing off of an adjacent drip zone, which means they have to run for the same duration), but would like to fix the root cause of the problem, preferably without having to chase a buried wire through my yard. At first I thought my problem was a broken solenoid. Upon replacement it still didn't work, so I tested the zone at the control box. I got 30v AC when touching my multimeter to the lead for the zone and to the lead for the common wire. When I perform the same test at the valve box, I get 2v AC. When I test another zone in the same valve box, I get 30v AC. This appears to point to a failed or failing wire. However, it seems odd to me for a single wire to fail or be damaged by rodents, as all 4 valves in this part of my yard are fed by the same 1/4-in buried wire (which has 4 colored wires, each controlling a solenoid, plus a white common inside the sheathing). When I disconnect the solenoid for the zone that's not working, I get no notification at the sprinkler controller of a problem. However if I disconnect a solenoid for any other zone, I get a notification at the controller that there is a fault for that zone. This makes me wonder if there is a problem at the controller (except I was getting voltage at the lead for the zone...). Any thoughts on what I can try next to troubleshoot this?
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Aug 7, 2022 19:47
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Motronic posted:Yes, those are spot welds. Ok, thanks. Motronic posted:Either you can find a small/flat enough fastener to drill through and reattach (unlikely), spot weld it back together (depends on what you've got/who you know - if there's a small welding shop nearby that is/used to be the kind of thing they'd do for a 6 pack and a twenty) or you need to just put the full model number of your dishwasher into appliancepartspro or similar and figure out if that part is available. If it is it's probably fairly cheap. Unfortunately I don't have any welding equipment/experience. But even if I did, or had a place nearby that did, I can't see a way to remove the 'outer' slider, which appears to be fastened to the wall of the dishwasher with rivets (the final photo in my post above). Not sure how to get that out of there... Edit: It's a KitchenAid KDTE334GPS0, looks like Part #10 in this diagram: https://www.reliableparts.com/lookup/255787/1684725#diagram  Now I can see the rails are fastened from the outside (Part #18). So it looks like I have to order a "Whirlpool Dishwasher Upper Dishrack Slide Track, Left Side", and pull out the dishwasher far enough to unscrew the broken slide track, in order to replace it. I've never installed or really messed with a dishwasher before, not sure if it can just be slid out or if it's fastened to the counter somehow. I think I'm on the right track now, at least. epswing fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 19:50
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Xenix posted:I'm having a sprinkler problem. One of my drip irrigation zones has stopped working. I have a temporary solution (piggy backing off of an adjacent drip zone, which means they have to run for the same duration), but would like to fix the root cause of the problem, preferably without having to chase a buried wire through my yard. You tested it pretty thoroughly. There's obviously a break in one of the two wires feeding that solenoid. Not knowing how deep/how long I'm not sure what to suggest, but if finding it and digging is particularly burdensome there are underground utility locators that can detect where a break like that is (they are $5k+ tools). You could maybe get a local commercial electrical company that has one of those (the kind that does work for parking lot lights, etc) to come out but I'm sure it would be several hundred bucks.
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Aug 7, 2022 19:54
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epswing posted:Ok, thanks. There are probably a few screws holding the dishwasher in to the space under your counter. If you're somewhat handy you *should* be able to replace it fairly easily if you can get the dishwasher out from under the counter. This site has videos on how to replace stuff and even if they don't have a video for your specific model and part replacement, I bet one of these videos would give you an idea of how to get the dishwasher out from under the counter, and from there it might be fairly easy to figure out how to replace the track. You might get it out and see a that its just a few screws that need to be replaced. https://www.repairclinic.com/Content-Library?query=kitchen%20aid%20dishwasher
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Aug 7, 2022 20:39
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i've got a carpentry / settling problem on my front patio that i'm trying to get profession help to fix and am having trouble finding the right type of contractor for the job backstory: last december, i noticed that a beam between my roof and a post that meets my tiled front patio was separating. i could also feel that the ground was starting to slope where previously it had been flat. it continued to sink slowly, and eventually stabilized, but it was enough that there was a >1 inch gap between the beam and roof and the concrete and tile on the ground got a bit cracked up. i had a foundation company come out and poke around, and they lifted that corner of the slab back up with a helical pile until the tile was level again. in the process of doing that, a concrete footing around the post broke loose and revealed that there was significant wood rot behind it. i need to get that post replaced, and i also want to get the beam above it replaced because i can feel it has some soft spots under the paint and is probably rotting as well. the house was built in the 80s, and it's FL, so it's definitely been exposed to a lot of moisture by now. here's a photo of the rotten base of the post:  no idea how long it's been like that. probably a long time -- i've lived here about 10 years, and wouldn't be surprised if the last owner noticed it rotting and just concreted over it to hide it or something. here's one where you can see the beam above and the gap (that's still there after the pile was installed, because they didn't want to raise the foundation past the point where it was level to make the beam flush again):  and here's a wider one where you can see the roofline a bit better and how it all meets up:  after getting the settling/foundation fixed, i started calling around to all the carpentry places in the county that i could find on google and yelp and explained the problem. i called maybe a dozen or so contractors and explained that i had an exterior post on my patio that needed to be replaced, and probably also a beam above it. many of them immediately said they only did indoor remodels. a few said they would call me back to do an estimate and never did. and only one actually showed up, said he could do the repair and had another job in the area, took my contact info and said he's send a quote at the end of the day. a few days went by... nothing, tried calling and texting, no response. i am not sure if everyone here is just swamped right now, i'm calling the wrong places, or the job is just unappealing for some reason. i was hoping to get this fixed up before the peak of hurricane season since i live on the coast, but that seems unlikely now. fortunately, the roof and house have been stable for the past 7 months -- i haven't noticed any other signs of settling or damage. i definitely get paranoid now about house creaks, though  anyway, i guess my question is -- what can i do to find the right type of contractor for this and get them to call me back or schedule an estimate? i don't want to just keep calling the same dozen places, but i've pretty much exhausted the places that show up on google and have at least have a few reviews that look legit.
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Aug 7, 2022 20:43
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oh yeah, forgot to mention -- my primary concern is just getting this structurally sound again, but ideally i would also like to get the cracked concrete and maybe even the tile replaced. the tile part is still level, but it did develop some cracks during the sinking and again when lifted back. the concrete seems to be supported separately, probably not connected to the slab, and so there's a ~1" level gap between it and the edge of the tile, and it's really broken up near the corner. i don't expect a carpentry place to be able to redo the patio, though, and i don't know how realistic it is to get separate contractors to coordinate a repair. i've never tried going through a general contractor before, and not really sure if this is the type of project they would take on.
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Aug 7, 2022 20:52
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This is general contractor territory. If I was quoting this work I might even want a structural engineer to give an opinion. If the beam is structural I'd want it specified, especially since it's exposed to the weather. Given how little it's supporting though, I might just go for 'replace like with like' and call it a day. Most like a good repair would involve temporarily supporting the roof, removing the post, digging and pouring a new footing (waiting for that to reach a reasonable strength), installing a new post (metal, or a stand-off bracket to hold a wood post), removing the (stucco?) siding as needed to expose the existing beam to a bearing point, replacing each beam one by one, fixing the roof flashing so it doesn't pour on the side of the beam anymore, removing damaged sections of the patio/driveway, replacing those, installing replacement tile, fixing the stucco, painting the replaced beams and other impacted areas. That assumes I don't find anything else that needs to be fixed while I'm opening everything up. A carpenter will do a lot of that, but the driveway stuff and the tile stuff and the stucco repairs and the painting... that's general contractor territory. You can coordinate yourself, but that means you need to divide up the scope and contract each piece separately.
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Aug 7, 2022 21:01
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thanks! so i should probably just expand my search to general contractors then. any advice on what i should search for? are there specialties or ways to pinpoint the contractors that do residential repairs? not sure what questions i should be asking.
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Aug 7, 2022 21:05
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The first people to talk to are people you know in your area and then neighbors. A referral is the best way to find someone trustworthy. Failing that, you just have to call everyone who advertises as a 'remodeler' or 'general contractor' or even 'handyman' (although that last one is very unlikely to bear fruit). Most of their websites will suck, so you won't be able to tell if they do small projects or not - you just are going to need to ask them all. The ones that say they only do interior projects, this is because they are likely 'kitchen and bath' contractors and wouldn't be a good fit anyways. Keep in mind how much money you have to spend. Replacing the post and pouring a new pier footing for it is reasonably simple, fixes your critical issue, and won't cost a ton. Touch the beams and now you have to start ripping apart the house. See if your city has any contractors that participate in NARI, it's one of the larger trade organizations for residential work: https://remodelingdoneright.nari.org/remodelers/
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Aug 7, 2022 21:16
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:There are probably a few screws holding the dishwasher in to the space under your counter. If you're somewhat handy you *should* be able to replace it fairly easily if you can get the dishwasher out from under the counter. I'm somewhat handy, I do light motorcycle maintenance/repair, so I'm used to watching a multitude of youtube videos (typically with bad lighting, shaky camera, poo poo audio, also the dude usually rambles and it's not uncommon for them to sneak in some religious and/or mildly racist remarks/quips) and endlessly browsing model-specific forums to piece together enough of what I need to fumble my way through, usually without having to trailer the bike I'm working on to a shop. I'm pleasantly surprised to see a crisply narrated instructional video to replace precisely the the part I need. Wow. Thank you!
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Aug 7, 2022 21:35
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Tezer posted:The first people to talk to are people you know in your area and then neighbors. A referral is the best way to find someone trustworthy. 3 results, one that might be relevant. i'll call 'em tomorrow. really appreciate the tips! and yeah, i am definitely concerned about the cost, but if the beams up top are also rotting i'd rather do this all in one shot than have to take it all apart again in a few years because something else gives or sags. the one carpenter who came out (and never got back to me) did recommend replacing them and said he didn't think it would be too hard since the beams don't extend into the house or garage, but i'll try to get a 2nd opinion on whether it's worth it whenever i can convince someone else to take a look. i'm hoping even with the worst case of needing to replace all the beams that the cost can stay under 10 grand, but no idea what to expect from a general contractor or how much price negotiation is normal. at least this seems like this is a much smaller job than a new roof, which i've been through twice living here (hurricane, then a hail storm 2 years later  )
Bad Purchase fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 21:53
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NotNut posted:That would probably be the smart option, but it's been broken for years so now it feels like some kind of personal challenge. The reason I think it's #8-24 is a 10-24 screws in fine for a turn and a half until the tapered edge gets to the bigger part and it gets tight. #6 goes right through, and #8 screws in briefly, at a slight angle, like you'd expect for the threads being the wrong density. The threads also look more like 24 than 32 when I shine on a light on them. Someone else suggested metric, but I just want to throw in there that an M5 thread is awfully close to a 10-32 (I think, something on that neighborhood). Close enough where it's super easy to confuse them. IIRC one will actually fit fairly well in to a hole for the other.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:14
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I love being a homeowner.  One of the supply hoses to the toilet came off, flooding the bathroom and making it rain down into the living room. It was also the perfect time to find that the lovely Home Depot special cut-off valve that's on there doesn't actually cut the water off at all, just kinda makes a lot of noise and slows the flood down from "oh poo poo Noah get the ark" to a mere "steady garden hose" flow. In the time that it took to get to the main water cut-off for the house, unfortunately, there was enough water that the ceiling in one of the rooms below is rather unhappy.     Everything that I've read online has suggested that drywall ceiling replacement is some fifth-ring-of-hell best left to the professionals, so I'm wary of trying to do that on my own. On the other hand, the thing I'm most worried about is what I can't see; are the not-stained parts water damaged in some way, or is there going to be mold lurking somewhere? When I get quotes from professionals to fix this, what sort of thing should I be looking for to know if they're just gonna slap a new coat of paint on it and call it "good", versus actually do the necessary things to make sure that there's no extended damage? Who invented these screw-down cut-off valves so I can correctly address my complaint letter, and why are they everywhere in bathrooms instead of god-fearing 90° lever cut-offs?
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Aug 7, 2022 22:18
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Painter of Crap is more qualified than I am to give you advice, but if you can tear out the damaged stuff fairly quickly and put some fans on it to let it dry, you probably don't have to worry too much about mold. Tear out more than what was damaged. Like if say the visible damage is a 2x4 foot area, cut out a bigger area than that. Maybe 4x6 for example.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:28
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Painter of Crap is more qualified than I am to give you advice, but if you can tear out the damaged stuff fairly quickly and put some fans on it to let it dry, you probably don't have to worry too much about mold.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:40
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Slugworth posted:This isn't strictly necessary as long as you open a strip of drywall perpendicular to your joists and get a good fan blowing into the cavities. Wet drywall that isn't visibly damaged can be saved pretty easily with prompt response. How prompt is prompt? It's already been a few days (I was out of town when it happened).
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Aug 7, 2022 22:48
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GoonyMcGoonface posted:How prompt is prompt? It's already been a few days (I was out of town when it happened).
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Aug 7, 2022 22:55
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Bad Purchase posted:3 results, one that might be relevant. i'll call 'em tomorrow. really appreciate the tips!
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Aug 7, 2022 23:32
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You have good advice. Open the ceiling at the damage, & let it dry out. Mold is overblown. Air & light are your friends. The framing will be fine, you will have drywall repairs & then paint. You have photos. Take more photos. If the issue turns out to be more involved than you think, you can report it to your insurer, and the photos will serve for the late report. Adjusters always appreciate photos. I'd get estimates first & see what you're in for. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 02:08
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Is anybody here in the UK and familiar with how land ownership documentation works? I have paid off a mortgage (on a house in Stoke on Trent - so worth less than a small motorbike parking space in London). I have nothing to evidence this and my mortgage company were useless and I cant get in touch with them. I have read that the land registry title should show me as the owner and if there was a mortgage on the land then this would also show on there. I have bought a land registry "title register" from the .gov site for £3 and it shows me as the registered owner and there is nothing about mortgages in the "Section C: Charges Register" section (just some stuff about the Lords who owned the land 100 years ago and sold the mining lease on it) Does this mean the mortgage has been fully closed off and it is all mine?
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Aug 8, 2022 11:18
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Situation: I live in an apartment that recently had a leak (still drying out my carpets) from above my unit into the bathroom. Water mostly got in behind the paint and made bubbles before either bursting or draining into an area behind the wall and under the vinyl into the carpet on the opposite side of the bathroom wall and outside the door. The leaking seems to have stopped after about two days of presumably low amounts of flow and I've been drying things out with a blower that maintenance left behind and some humidity mitigation from in-wall AC units. Q1: What is my risk of mold as I obviously can't just open up the walls or paint to dry things out (the drywall on the other side of the bathroom looks fairly dry save for a wet spot at the top)? Q2: What's a good way to deodorize my carpets as my place now stinks (aside from my bathroom thanks to the vent fan) and it's also the middle of summer while I live on a ground floor apartment with only two windows, one of which is built into a door) Q3: As nothing of my own was actually damaged in this whole thing, would my renter's insurance still need to be notified in the event of future issues that might pop up as a result of the leak (and assuming it's covered)?
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Aug 9, 2022 00:06
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Xelkelvos posted:Q1: What is my risk of mold as I obviously can't just open up the walls or paint to dry things out (the drywall on the other side of the bathroom looks fairly dry save for a wet spot at the top)? What do you mean "obviously"? That's how you dry out wall/ceiling cavities so you don't have mold. You open it up and put fans in/on it. This is how leak and flood mediation is done. Call you insurance company. They should be telling you who to hire and how much it should cost (it's going to be ServPro or similar). They will take care of suing your building/neighbor/HOA if necessary.
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Aug 9, 2022 00:21
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Motronic posted:What do you mean "obviously"? That's how you dry out wall/ceiling cavities so you don't have mold. You open it up and put fans in/on it. This is how leak and flood mediation is done. Well I can't open anything up is the problem, but I'm ventillating as much as I can without going to work and leaving the accessible from the outside windows open. As far as insurance goes: Even if none of my personal property is damaged? huh, okay. I'll give it a shot.
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Aug 9, 2022 00:37
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Xelkelvos posted:Well I can't open anything up is the problem, but I'm ventillating as much as I can without going to work and leaving the accessible from the outside windows open. Are you saying that you don't own the apartment and you are a renter? Because that changes everything, including my advice. Which is to find another place to rent if this is how they maintain things.
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Aug 9, 2022 00:42
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Motronic posted:Are you saying that you don't own the apartment and you are a renter? Because that changes everything, including my advice. Oh yeah, I'm renting an apartment. I thought that was implied when I said I lived in an apartment. But also, yeah, when my lease runs out because of a half dozen other reasons besides this new one.
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Aug 9, 2022 00:45
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