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I'm selling some leftovers from my last two rebuilds over in SA Mart. I've got a 650W EVGA PSU, an LGA 1151 mobo, some 140mm case fans, and two CPU coolers that could handle probably a 12400 but nothing bigger. Link: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=4009584&pagenumber=1&perpage=40#post525434506
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Aug 10, 2022 18:11
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Bumbling back in to poke at assembling a PC again. Is Newegg safe enough these days? After that whole blowup with GamersNexus and the RMA situation, did anything change or is there anything specific to watch out for with them?
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Aug 11, 2022 00:57
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Bumbling back in to poke at assembling a PC again. Is Newegg safe enough these days? After that whole blowup with GamersNexus and the RMA situation, did anything change or is there anything specific to watch out for with them? Some vague promises have been made, but it's pretty hard to tell if the processes that were broken before are better now. In general, I don't have a problem recommending Newegg as long as you're buying new products that also come with manufacturer warranties. The exception is usually monitors/TVs, because I've heard not great things about their return process with those. Amazon has a no-questions-asked return policy which is extremely convenient if you want to return a monitor with dead pixels or even if you just don't like the amount of IPS glow it has or something. Newegg is a some-questions-asked kind of store and they will give you less leeway. For other components though, I still shop there. edit: The one concrete change newegg did make to their returns policy was to accept no-questions-asked returns for open box items. they used to reject a lot of open box returns, which they no longer seem to do? Unless they secretly went back on that. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 01:08
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Crossposting from the GPU thread: For the next 4 hours only, and in the Newegg mobile app only, this Yeston 3060 ($600) has a $160 coupon code and comes with a $150 Newegg gift card: https://www.newegg.com/yeston-gefor...&quicklink=true So, $290 sorta. Also comes with a free "blind box" full of random e-waste. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 02:55
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Crossposting from the GPU thread: That’s an incredible price. Basically at 1060 6gb MSRP. Also of note, GN Reviewed a different Yeston GPU and were quite happy with it. So anyone considering shouldn’t worry about the brand.
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Aug 11, 2022 02:59
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Oooohhhh that's a good deal if you're building a new mid tier PC and will be buying a ton of poo poo anyways, and also it's a Yeston card so the backplate is - mandatorily - insane
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Aug 11, 2022 03:01
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Their 3080 10GB is also $1100 with a $300 app-only coupon code and a $180 Newegg gift card, so $620 when counting the gift card. https://www.newegg.com/yeston-geforce-rtx-3080-rtx3080-10g-d6x-ya/p/1FT-007N-00071 The gift cards are emailed to you automatically, so there's no annoying mail-in rebate process. You just need to want other stuff from newegg to make it worthwhile.
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Aug 11, 2022 03:10
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Bumbling back in to poke at assembling a PC again. Is Newegg safe enough these days? After that whole blowup with GamersNexus and the RMA situation, did anything change or is there anything specific to watch out for with them? Eh, it's hard to say for sure. The last thing I bought from them arrived in a box that had been used to hold bubble mailers or something, not an actual newegg box. It's like they just looked around for the nearest box that was handy in the warehouse. There was no extra padding inside, and as a result it was beat to poo poo with excess tape on it with the sides partially caved in. Fortunately it was just the switch ring fit and another game so I guess they're likely to have survived a tumble through UPS but it was just really poo poo packaging. I try to avoid them if I can but I had a gift card.
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Aug 11, 2022 03:21
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My brother has asked me to build him a gaming PC with an $800 budget. I have no clue what display he's going to use but he mostly plays Warzone, R6 Siege, Apex Legends, etc. I opted for more ram vs. a 12400 but if it's a better trade-off I can swap down to 16gb ram. I also don't know how capable the stock cooler is but if there's a worthwhile upgrade in the $20 range I can add that too. This is what I've got right now: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i3-12100F 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($106.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B660M DS3H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($96.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial P2 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($71.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 6600 XT 8 GB Fighter Video Card ($299.99 @ Amazon) Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA BR 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Amazon) Total: $790.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-08-11 01:25 EDT-0400
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Aug 11, 2022 06:26
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hamsystem posted:My brother has asked me to build him a gaming PC with an $800 budget. I have no clue what display he's going to use but he mostly plays Warzone, R6 Siege, Apex Legends, etc. I opted for more ram vs. a 12400 but if it's a better trade-off I can swap down to 16gb ram. I also don't know how capable the stock cooler is but if there's a worthwhile upgrade in the $20 range I can add that too. This is what I've got right now: I would get the 12400F with 16GB of RAM. Adding more RAM later if necessary would be cheap and easy, while changing out the CPU for a better one would be less so. And 16GB is more than enough memory for those kinds of games. I guess the only issue here is that the 12400F just had a sale end and it went from $150 to $180 a day or two ago. As for $20 coolers, there's this thing. Nobody reputable seems to have reviewed this yet, but Thermalright's other budget coolers have been tested and found to be good values, so this one is probably fine too. The Intel stock cooler is functional. The 12400 or 12100 wouldn't overheat or anything, but it could be noisy depending on how good that case is at moving air. I would just get an aftermarket cooler and not worry about stuff like temps or noise. (edit: that cooler claims LGA1700 support in the listing title but not in the description or promo images, so it may be a gamble? They probably started shipping them with LGA1700-compatible brackets at some point and just haven't updated the description) And if you live near a micro center, these deals could save some money. (I will keep posting these for as long as micro center has them available because they're such good deals) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 06:57
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That feel when you build your first complete rig in 9 years and nothing happens when you plug it in and try to boot it up I’ll pay more attention to where I plug the front panel header in next time Feels weird rocking a 12900k with a 980 but my old mobo crapped out and I didn’t want to go without a gaming PC for several months waiting for the 4080. Also holy poo poo the Noctua D15 is enormous
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Aug 11, 2022 08:55
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:That feel when you build your first complete rig in 9 years and nothing happens when you plug it in and try to boot it up You’re taking some big rear end risk here, assuming there’s going to be 4080 stock available within any reasonable time frame, or that prices won’t be insane as hell. People seem to forget, but being unable to get the latest GPU for a year+ is how things have always worked for new Nvidia cards. The 2080 super was an exception because it was barely better than the 1080 Ti, but the 1080 and base 2080 were hard to get for a very long time. The supply chain also still isn’t back to 100%. With some of the firesale pricing right now, you are probably going to be better off getting a 3080/3090 right now and selling it off once you can actually get a 4xxx card. A 980 is a hell of an old card, and unless you’re really intent on 4k above 60FSP the 3090 cards can handle it easy.
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Aug 11, 2022 17:39
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So many tech Youtubers are saying there'll be plenty of 40 series cards available within a month of launch and I'm just looking at them like you do realise scalpers still exist and if there's any hype around the 40 series after launch you're fighting a massive army of scalper bots forever right?
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Aug 11, 2022 17:41
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If supply is a nightmare again I’ll just buy a used 3080/90 to hold me over till demand dies down My guess is unless crypto takes off again it will be fine
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Aug 11, 2022 17:48
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njsykora posted:So many tech Youtubers are saying there'll be plenty of 40 series cards available within a month of launch and I'm just looking at them like you do realise scalpers still exist and if there's any hype around the 40 series after launch you're fighting a massive army of scalper bots forever right? Especially since scalpers know people will pay out the rear end for ANY gpu they can get their hands on.
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Aug 11, 2022 17:48
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EvilBlackRailgun posted:If supply is a nightmare again I’ll just buy a used 3080/90 to hold me over till demand dies down Crypto is moving back up. And if supply is a nightmare again, expect to pay a premium for used cards. The 3080 fiasco made most used GPUs sell for sometimes $100s above their MSRP. Many 3080/3090 cards are significantly below MSRP right now as vendors are trying to firesale what they worry will be dead stock. Cards feel overstocked now IMO because nvidia took so long to get to a reasonable stock level, that anyone who was still considering a 3xxx card is firmly in the “gently caress it might as well wait for a 4xxx”. Like I said, you may be fine, but it’s a gamble. Especially with the 3000 series cards are excellent already. There’s very few games than you can’t hit maxed settings 1440p@144hz with a 3080.
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Aug 11, 2022 18:01
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Yea but if the rumors are true and Nvidia is dealing with having an oversupply of 4x cards then it may be difficult for scalpers to corner the market.
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Aug 11, 2022 18:05
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Quick question about case fans. My son's PC has three case fans upfront that came with the case. The top fan lights up, and will spin when using FanControl and running the set up, but it says "RPM sensor not detected" and so I can't control it. The other two fans work perfectly fine. I tried several other fan programs, and checked the bios to make sure something wasn't weird. Does this mean the fan is busted?
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Aug 11, 2022 19:27
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I don't like trying to predict pricing or availability of parts, and personally prefer to wait for parts to be more mature and supported before I buy them. For the last several years this has meant grabbing GPUs later in their lifecycle, like the 3080 12GB I picked up in June for $750. That was a good deal, gives me significant headroom, and it means I can watch the 4xxx release play out as an interested observer. The 2070 Super I bought two years ago gave me the same luxury to sit on the sidelines as the 3xxx release went to cartoonishly terrible places. I'm still debating when or if to pick up a Ryzen 5800X3D for similar reasons - having that CPU would let me comfortably ride out the ongoing release of DDR5 systems while still having a machine as close to top specs as possible. Right now the 3600X is holding its own fine, but plunking a few hundred more for a last AM4 upgrade feels like it meshes well with my general approach.
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Aug 11, 2022 19:31
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Dial M for MURDER posted:Quick question about case fans. My son's PC has three case fans upfront that came with the case. What is the fan plugged into? It generally has to be plugged into the motherboard to have control over it. The way this usually works is that there's one wire for 12v, one for ground, one for rpm tach, and one for PWM if it's a PWM fan. The motherboard will either use PWM to throttle the fan but requires the tach for feedback, or will use voltage control to change the power output on the 12v line to lower it to slow the fan down (again requiring tach signal). Some cases come with a fan power distribution block, so the fan power splitter box would plug into a motherboard fan header and then use the fan control from the motherboard to attempt to control all of the other fans blindly, by just duplicating the pwm signal out to them and getting feedback from one fan's tach. This works but doesn't let the motherboard then see all the tach sensors from every fan because it's only got one wire available for that, so it will generally just show the motherboard tach for a single fan. Other options are to just hook a fan directly to a power plug from the power supply, which will cause it to run full speed. In your specific case if the fan is plugged directly into a motherboard fan header, it could be that the tach wire is broken, since they're very small and thin conductors, or it's not seated fully into the connector. It could also just be plugged in another way, either directly off a power connector from the power supply (and will run full blast) or into a fan splitter or controller. For lights there can be two kinds, one where the fan just had LEDs on it that work via the power from the 12v and ground hooked up, so they're either on all the time or off (some have a small switch) and the other kind with RGB where there's an extra connector for RGB controlling which usually has three or four pins.
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Aug 11, 2022 20:02
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Dial M for MURDER posted:Quick question about case fans. My son's PC has three case fans upfront that came with the case. Were you able to control it previously? It's possible that fan is either not PWM or not connected to a PWN header, which would mean you would have difficulty controlling it. A good test would be to plug one of the working fans into the header that is having the issue.
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Aug 11, 2022 20:05
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Re: Waiting vs buying now: I am more optimistic about the future of the GPU market than the others here. I think if you are comfortable waiting (as in, there's nothing you feel a strong urge to play with a new graphics card right now), then you should just wait. I don't think it would make much sense to buy a GPU you don't particularly need right now just as a hedge against possible supply issues in the future. If the old adage of "you should just buy new hardware when you need it instead of constantly waiting for something better" is true, then the inverse is also true. Don't be compelled to buy a current gen GPU just because they're finally available at around MSRP if you don't really need one.njsykora posted:So many tech Youtubers are saying there'll be plenty of 40 series cards available within a month of launch and I'm just looking at them like you do realise scalpers still exist and if there's any hype around the 40 series after launch you're fighting a massive army of scalper bots forever right? Scalpers can't control a market on their own forever. Scalping is only possible when certain conditions are met. You need demand that far outstrips supply and a subset of customers who are willing to pay a shitload of money to get the scalped thing. All the scalping this generation ended once miners stopped buying GPUs. If crypto mining fails to make a comeback, then I don't think the scalping will last past the first month or two of launch hype.
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Aug 11, 2022 22:17
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Manifesting power for Intel to sort their driver issues out and their GPUs become the unsung hero for would-be PC gamers in the next few years.
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Aug 12, 2022 00:38
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Western Digital SN570 1TB for $70 with coupon code 'HOYA52': https://www.newegg.com/Western-Digital-1TB-Blue-SN570-NVMe/p/20-250-211 (edit: expired already?)Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Re: Waiting vs buying now: I am more optimistic about the future of the GPU market than the others here. I think if you are comfortable waiting (as in, there's nothing you feel a strong urge to play with a new graphics card right now), then you should just wait. I don't think it would make much sense to buy a GPU you don't particularly need right now just as a hedge against possible supply issues in the future. If the old adage of "you should just buy new hardware when you need it instead of constantly waiting for something better" is true, then the inverse is also true. Don't be compelled to buy a current gen GPU just because they're finally available at around MSRP if you don't really need one. One addendum to this is that I think we may have actually hit the price floor and prices will start leveling out or maybe even rebound slightly in the coming weeks and months, even if no further major supply chain disruptions happen. This is happening for several different types of components, not just GPUs. 2x8GB kits of DDR4-3200 went down to $40, and now they're back closer to $50. EVGA's power supplies crashed in price over the last six months, and this week marks the first time they've gone up in price in a few months (by about $10 - $20 on most PSUs, see this price chart for the 750W G6). Several good CPU deals ended last week and haven't been replaced with new discounts yet (so the 5600X is back up to $200 and the 12400F is $180). And outside of those Yeston deals, supply on Newegg for the 3080 does not seem to have been amazing lately, and we aren't currently seeing those sub-$750 prices that we saw for a little bit a couple weeks ago, though we still have a few being sold that low elsewhere (e.g. this 3080 12GB for $730 on the Zotac store). It may be possible that Nvidia is doing chip buybacks. Distribution channels were heavily oversupplied for a while, manufacturers adjusted, prices dropped while retailers tried to sell through their excess inventory, and prices may go back up a little bit again once supply levels out with demand. If there's a time to build a PC, it's probably right now. Maybe I'm jumping at shadows here, but multiple different types of components going slightly up in price at the same time has me thinking that it could be the start of a wider trend. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 02:30
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I would love to get some tips on my build please. What country are you in? USA, Nowhere near a MicroCenter What are you using the system for? Full gaming rig. Really want to get the most bang for the buck on Hell Let Loose. What's your budget? Hoping to stay below $1600 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Currently a 1440 144 hz. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kV8WJM CPU: Intel Core i5-10400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor $120 CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black $54 Motherboard Asus TUF GAMING B560M-PLUS WIFI Micro ATX LGA1200 $130 (Wifi and Bluetooth would be a great bonus but not absolute Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 $91 Storage Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $188 (will likely add another at some point in the future) GPU EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti 8 GB FTW3 ULTRA $680 I already have a few parts that I can use but I am not married to them. I can swap out for better parts if the price is right or if they would be bad for my build. CaseCooler Master MasterBox Q300L Micro-ATX Tower Purchased for $50 PSUCooler Master MWE Gold 750 V2 Full Modular, 750W, 80+ Gold Purchased for $75 MonitorLG 27GL850-B 27 Inch Ultragear QHD Nano IPS 1ms NVIDIA G-Sync Compatible Gaming Monitor Purchased for $250 Total: $1,640 One main concern I had; will I be able to fit the gigantic CPU cooler and the GPU in the Micro-ATX case? Dredge fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 02:59
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Western Digital SN570 1TB for $70 with coupon code 'HOYA52': https://www.newegg.com/Western-Digital-1TB-Blue-SN570-NVMe/p/20-250-211 This is not even factoring the current risk of money pox disrupting things further.
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Aug 12, 2022 03:03
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Dredge posted:I would love to get some tips on my build please. Don't buy a 3070 Ti. It offers very little performance over the 3070 (as in, +6 - 7%), and the 3070 can be had for at or around $500. See if you can pick a founder's edition at best buy, or get this gigabyte model for $520. Use the money you save on a 12400 instead since it's far faster than the 10400. Alternatively: get the 3080 12GB I linked above for $50 more than the 3070 ti. It should provide a very large boost to performance and help you make the most out of your 144hz display if high frame rates are what you're after (though the 3070 is quite capable of providing a high-fidelity 60+ fps experience at 1440p). The Hyper 212 has lost the price to performance battle against a bunch of other recent low-cost tower coolers, such as the Thermalright Assassin X 120 or ID-Cooling SE-224-XT. I'd pick up one of those for $20 - $30 instead. You can save another $20 by getting the WD SN570 instead of the 970 Evo Plus, which only really has a clear advantage when it comes to long, sustained file transfers.
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Aug 12, 2022 03:18
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I'm trying to help my sister build a gaming PC. I used this thread several times in the past, but I'm not up to speed on all the latest parts, so I would appreciate any help. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming and general use. The games would be like Minecraft, Sims 4, Skyrim, Red Dead Redemption 2. Usually not cutting edge games, although that could be possible. What's your budget? Technically she's willing to spend $2,000, but I really don't think that's necessary. She wants the computer to be on par with mine, which I built in Spring 2019, so I've been trying to aim closer to $1,000. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 1080p / 75 hz (the monitor is already owned). High graphics settings are preferred, but can be scaled back when necessary. Would want to avoid anything lower than medium. I skimmed the last several pages of the thread to put together this list. I'm not married to these parts, so let me know if you have other suggestions. The only caveat is that my sister definitely wants a white case, and white inner parts if they're the same price as a black counterpart. The current case is very cheap, but it doesn't let you control the RGB, so I'm open to a better one. Also I do live within an hour of a Micro Center, so I plan to get the CPU/motherboard combo from there, as well as other parts they're the same price elsewhere. Last thing - does anyone know if I'll need to update the BIOS if I buy that motherboard/CPU combo? I would think it wouldn't be necessary at that point, but PCPartPicker warns about it. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($110.00) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($110.00) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($75.99 @ Corsair) Storage: Crucial P3 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($424.99 @ Adorama) Case: Montech X3 Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99) Power Supply: EVGA G5 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ EVGA) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($15.00) Monitor: Asus VA24DQ 23.8" 1920x1080 75 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $955.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-08-11 22:28 EDT-0400
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Aug 12, 2022 03:35
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I would ask Micro Center about the BIOS situation, but I have to imagine that those motherboards have the latest BIOS already, or at least a compatible one. They're selling them with the CPU in the socket with the expectation that the customer can just slap on a cooler and go. Otherwise all of that seems fine, though I would consider the 6600 XT over the 3060. It's faster at 1080p and cheaper. If the choice is between a ~$400 3060 or a ~$300 6600 XT, definitely get the latter. The only area where it falls behind is in ray tracing. (according to the techpowerup review, it's about 12% faster than the 3060 normally and 20 - 25% slower with ray tracing on.) Alternatively, try to see if you can get a 3060 Ti Founders Edition for $400 from best buy in your area. That would be worth it. edit: Also, if you aren't pinching pennies, then I'd probably look for something a little better than the Montech X3. The case's thermals are fine since it comes with so many fans, but the fans can't be controlled at all since they're molex (so constant RGB and max fan speed) and it's just sort of a cheap case. Look at something like the G360A or Pop Air instead for some good sub-$100 cases. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 05:03
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What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming, occasional streaming for shits and giggles, lurking the forums. What's your budget? $1250-ish? If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Currently on 1080p 23" 60hz cheapo, planning to buy a 1440 monitor with more Hertz this fall. How fancy do you want your graphics Kinda fancy? Hoping for solid 2k performance, generally on games at least a year or two old. Games I'll play are Hell Let Loose or similar multiplayer (not at all competitively), Hitman, ONI, MechWarrior 5, and maybe dabble in strategy/Paradox stuff like Civ, Hearts of Iron, Stellaris, etc. Those are good for just a quick dabble, right? What else? The quieter, the better - a little more $ for something a little quieter would be worth it to me. Also wanna make sure I have plenty of USB-A ports availabe. RGB is fun but not a requirement. This is my first ever build and the first time I'll have anything close to the latest tech. Right now I'm on a hand-me-down with a NVIDIA 1070 that I got a few years back, but before that I'd never had anything with a GPU. I doubt I'll put much into upgrades anytime soon, and since this is my first time, I'm willing to spend a little more where it makes sense. But I'm thinking more like "something that'll work even if little behind the curve for the next 5 years" than "futureproof for AAA games in 2-3 years." Also - I live by a MicroCenter! So for convenience's sake I'll probably get most of my parts there unless there's a good deal elsewhere. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($239.99 @ MicroCenter) CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($65.98 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B660M AORUS Pro AX DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg, same at MicroCenter after discount for bundling with CPU) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB RT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($127.99 @ MicroCenter) Storage: Already have a 1TB SSD, pretty sure it's SATA. ($0.00) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB Founders Edition Video Card ($499.99 @ Best Buy - Already bought) Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case or something similarly priced that looks cool when I go to MicroCenter ($94.99 @ Corsair) Power Supply: My friend has a gently used one that's either 620W or 650W so I'll probably take that. Or else go with a basic gold-certified PowerSpec from MicroCenter ($A case or two of beer?) Total: $1,178.93 + a case or two of beer Questions: Would I be OK fitting this onto a mATX board? I don't think I'll need many other slots except maybe adding a NVMe drive at some point. Also, I currently have 2 year old 500w power supply, I assume that won't cut it for my 3070? Would I be safe with a 620 if that's what my friend has or should I make sure to get a 650? Fake edit: Seems like what I want is kinda similar to what Cool Dogs Only is looking for, but for 2k instead of 1080p.
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Aug 12, 2022 06:12
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Don't buy a 3070 Ti. It offers very little performance over the 3070 (as in, +6 - 7%), and the 3070 can be had for at or around $500. See if you can pick a founder's edition at best buy, or get this gigabyte model for $520. Use the money you save on a 12400 instead since it's far faster than the 10400. Alternatively: get the 3080 12GB I linked above for $50 more than the 3070 ti. It should provide a very large boost to performance and help you make the most out of your 144hz display if high frame rates are what you're after (though the 3070 is quite capable of providing a high-fidelity 60+ fps experience at 1440p). Thank you very much for the suggestions. Getting the 3080 12GB GPU is definitely tempting, but I'm not sure my 750w PSU will handle that plus the 12400 CPU. My concern is upgrading to far in that direction will blow my budget through the roof. Ill swap out the CPU for sure along with the other things you mentioned. Do you think the case that I linked would be adequate for the upgrades you suggest? And could you recommend a good case fan setup if so? Dredge fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 12:12
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your 750 should be fine for a 3080, in the absolute worst case scenario if you were having instability you could put a slight undervolt on it but i don't expect it. a 12400 is in fact an extremely low power chip, fwiw, 65w like the equivalant ryzen 6/12 CPUs although i think it's calculated different. optimal undervolts generally barely impact performance, but if you really really went in hard (there's someone who posts ITT who runs a 3080 on a 650w while undervolted, actually) to get power draw down, so say you had 3070ti tier performance which would be a very very significant downclock, you'd still be spending less power than a 3070ti and with more memory as i understand it.
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Aug 12, 2022 12:32
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edit: ^^^^ The 12400 can pull up to 80 - 90 watts iirc, but yeah, I wouldn't a simple 3080/12400 PC to pull more than 500 - 550W from the wall. That said, sustained power draw isn't the issue, transient power spikes are. And what you're describing with regards to underclocking seems like it would be very unnecessary and not super efficient. Undervolting in the manner we typically recommend has a tendency to slightly increase performance, not decrease it, on top of reducing power draw.Dredge posted:Thank you very much for the suggestions. Right, I honestly forgot to consider your existing components. A 750W PSU is doable with a 3080 and a 12400. 750W is the minimum recommended spec from Nvidia, and the MWE Gold V2 is decent power supply as far as I'm aware, so it should hold up to the 3080's transient power spikes pretty well. If this was with a more power-hungry CPU, I'd be concerned, but it would probably be fine with that hardware configuration, especially if you undervolt the GPU. But since this is a borderline situation, I can't 100% guarantee it. I can only say that I think it's likely to work out fine. The 3070 would be the safe bet and easier to deal with from a thermal and power management point of view. The Q300L is not a particularly good case though (and I'm honestly confused as to why it's so popular). The airflow situation is deceptively bad, and heat management is an issue, especially as you toss in more demanding components. GamesNexus (one of the go-tos for case reviews) lambasted the full ATX variant back in the day because of this. I certainly wouldn't ever try to put a 3080 in there. The 3070 may be borderline but I still don't think I'd want to try that. The cases I posted above, the Phanteks G360A and Fractal Design Pop Air, would be good sub-$100 choices if you don't want to spend too much. They come with enough fans already and will keep everything cool with very little tinkering (you could maybe add an exhaust fan to the G360 but it probably won't be necessary due to how much positive airflow there is). Clevername Lookhere posted:What country are you in? USA There's no problem using an mATX board here. Nvidia's recommended PSU wattage for the 3070 is 650W, though I suspect that a 620W PSU would be sufficient—I highly doubt that 30W would make or break the system. Though again, it's all about those transients, and there's a lot of variance between PSUs of the same wattage when it comes to how well they handle those power spikes. If it's a good 620W PSU, it should be fine. It's probably worth a try in any case. Generally the worst that happens is that you trip the PSU's overpower protection and it shuts off on you while gaming. If this happens, then look for a 750W one or something just to be safe (PSUs are pretty cheap right now anyway) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 12:48
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Clevername Lookhere posted:
Since you are near a micro center you might want to take advantage of their OEM AMD CPU deals - like so: https://www.microcenter.com/product...therboard-combo That is a good deal for a decent MB and a slightly slower processor with performance within a few percentage points, and puts $170 back in your pocket. I would be inclined to buy a new PSU rather than recycle.
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Aug 12, 2022 12:58
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:edit: ^^^^ The 12400 can pull up to 80 - 90 watts iirc, but yeah, I wouldn't a simple 3080/12400 PC to pull more than 500 - 550W from the wall. That said, sustained power draw isn't the issue, transient power spikes are. And what you're describing with regards to underclocking seems like it would be very unnecessary and not super efficient. Undervolting in the manner we typically recommend has a tendency to slightly increase performance, not decrease it, on top of reducing power draw. Looking at reviews quickly, their PSU seems solid. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cooler-master-v750-gold-v2-power-supply-review I agree that the wattage is fine for a 12400/3080 build, especially with an under volt as an option. The nice thing about their situation is that it probably won’t harm your GPU if you get with with spike shutdowns. If it were me, I’d give the 750w a roll and just be prepared to replace it if I got shutdowns I couldn’t manage with an undervolt.
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Aug 12, 2022 16:10
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Hmmmmm this all making me wonder. I got a 850 Watt RMx PSU for my new rig with an i5 12600k and 3080 GPU, that should still be fine though?
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Aug 12, 2022 16:21
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I've heard about undervolting the GPU before but not really looked into it, is the general consensus here is that it's worth doing? It'd be nice if the card draws a little less power as electricity is getting more expensive in the UK at the moment and every little helps. I have a 3060Ti and I looked for a guide on youtube, found this which seems really straightforward, is this what you would do or is there a better way?
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Aug 12, 2022 16:29
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Since you are near a micro center you might want to take advantage of their OEM AMD CPU deals - like so: https://www.microcenter.com/product...therboard-combo That is a good deal for a decent MB and a slightly slower processor with performance within a few percentage points, and puts $170 back in your pocket. I would be inclined to buy a new PSU rather than recycle. Thanks! Totally forgot about that good MicroCenter deal, I'll definitely consider that. I have it in my mind that I want an Intel, but that's a pretty good deal to pass up for no good reason. Re: Power supply I'll have to see just how gently used my friend's is, I'd also lean towards just buying a new one if it's not in great shape.
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Aug 12, 2022 16:32
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Popete posted:Hmmmmm this all making me wonder. I got a 850 Watt RMx PSU for my new rig with an i5 12600k and 3080 GPU, that should still be fine though? 850w is absolutely fine. The transient spike issue comes down to the combo of specific GPU + PSU. It’s the kind of thing that you generally shouldn’t worry about unless your PSU is lovely or underpowered. For more info https://youtu.be/wnRyyCsuHFQ oh no computer posted:I've heard about undervolting the GPU before but not really looked into it, is the general consensus here is that it's worth doing? It'd be nice if the card draws a little less power as electricity is getting more expensive in the UK at the moment and every little helps. I don’t know how much electricity is, but in freedom land you’d be saving like $10-$20 a year in electricity max by undervolting a 3060ti. IMO it’s not worth the hassle for you.
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Aug 12, 2022 16:36
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Clevername Lookhere posted:Thanks! Totally forgot about that good MicroCenter deal, I'll definitely consider that. I have it in my mind that I want an Intel, but that's a pretty good deal to pass up for no good reason. MC had good intel deals when I went last week too. Keep in mind you’ll pay more for the motherboard on intels side.
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Aug 12, 2022 16:37
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