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KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

SpaceCadetBob posted:

Im not going to cause problems beyond regaling this thread about the saga, its really not my style even if it was really lovely.

I actually had to to take it back for a quick fix today on the tailgate which they sorted no problem so for me this is all water under the bridge at this point.

But the ultimate lesson here is gently caress dealerships . Good job.

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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

General_Disturbed posted:

Quick Question: My new master cylinder has arrived. And in the 'secondary' tank that I don't have access to, it has what looks like a big round plastic piece sitting free in the tank rattling around. Is this something normal? The one I just put on that was faulty definitely didn't have this.

I have taken a quick video clip to show what I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm5B_7-vU10

Maybe a weird level sensor? Idk I've never seen anything like that.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
How do most level sensors work? I've never checked. I'd figure a float would be a method, especially based on how they respond.

litany of gulps
Jun 11, 2001

Fun Shoe
My 2016 Honda Civic started making rattling noises today on my way home from work. It seems like it was only happening while idle, and the moment I'd start to accelerate it would stop. No check engine lights or any strangeness in driving or performance. It also wasn't happening consistently, but I managed to catch it on my phone while idling in the garage.

It's hard to tell from the phone recording, but the rattling at the beginning of the video is significantly louder than the regular engine noise. The regular engine noise also seems to have a faint version of the same rattle, though. There's nothing caught in the radiator fan and nothing obviously wrong with any visible belt. There's nothing loose on the underside of the car that I can see. The noise really does seem to be coming from the motor itself, too, but it's hard to tell with the thing running.

Am I going to die if I drive this to work tomorrow? Any suggestions on what the heck this might be? And thanks for any advice or suggestions that help keep my fleshy, soft body from dying in fiery metallic collisions at high speed.

https://i.imgur.com/EIV15hw.mp4

litany of gulps fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Aug 11, 2022

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
catalyst and manifold heat shields will do that.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Check your oil, it sounds like it’s low (or has been in the past).

litany of gulps
Jun 11, 2001

Fun Shoe

RIP Paul Walker posted:

Check your oil, it sounds like it’s low (or has been in the past).

Well poo poo, thank you. It is low. For years I drove old Volvos and checked that poo poo constantly because they consumed oil at a rapid pace. My Honda hasn't ever (to my knowledge) had a problem with that, and I get the oil changed every time it tells me to. I'll need to be more vigilant.

hobbez
Mar 1, 2012

Don't care. Just do not care. We win, you lose. You do though, you seem to care very much

I'm going to go ride my mountain bike, later nerds.

KakerMix posted:

Just pointing out that your Lexus GX is worth a lot to lots of people, including as pointed out already to people who might try and buy it off you. The Lexus GX is a Land Cruiser Prado, and the US market is the only one that gets the V8. It's an extremely desirable, incredibly well built and reliable vehicle that's very well respected.

Yeah. I think my plan is to sell it at a reasonable discount so it can go to the land of "no smog checks" and the new owner can do with it what they will COUGH (cat delete) COUGH

Thank you everyone that posted your thoughts. I am not sure I will get to the bottom of what is causing the misfires but I really just want to get out from under it as the vehicle has given me a couple problems and it should just go to a loving home that really wants to wrench on it on the regular. I will probably come out ahead in the end so everyone hopefully wins

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



KakerMix posted:

But the ultimate lesson here is gently caress dealerships . Good job.

Says the used car dealer :v: Yes I know that's a massive oversimplification of what you do.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Can anyone recommend a good brake flush kit for a single person to use to flush the brake lines by themselves?

I see plenty on Amazon but I'm worried about cheap Chinese crap and wonder what brands I should use?

Or if I should just forget the idea completely?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


nitrogen posted:

Can anyone recommend a good brake flush kit for a single person to use to flush the brake lines by themselves?

I see plenty on Amazon but I'm worried about cheap Chinese crap and wonder what brands I should use?

Or if I should just forget the idea completely?

consensus is pretty much the Motive power bleeder.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Powershift posted:

Motive power bleeder.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Powershift posted:

consensus is pretty much the Motive power bleeder.

And it's an American made product! Excellent. Thank you very much everyone.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
I just had to replace the hose on my motive bleeder after 15 years and countless uses. Check that you're getting the correct adapter though, the universal one isn't great but it works in a pinch.

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!
2004 Kia Amanti, 3.5L Sigma V6, runs like poo poo. Missing on a couple cylinders, bogs on any but the slightest bit of throttle, if I eeeeeaaaaaase into it and at cruise speed it runs fine. Recently had all the plugs/coils replaced by the dealership, along with a top-end refresh (new valve cover and head gaskets, cleaned out all the gunk in the heads and piston faces, and a 2-month wait to find a new crank sensor -- apparently Kia USA's warehouse didn't have any in stock, they eventually searched all the dealership inventory and found the only one in North America.

It's the fuel injectors, isn't it? Do any of the pour-in-the-gas-tank injector cleaners actually do anything, or am I going to have to pay a shop to take it all apart again and replace them?

(the intake has to come off to get at one bank, and that's one of those things I could probably do myself, but with all the hoses and wires on a modern car, I'd rather pay somebody else to.)


And yes, I should just get something newer, but a) it has sentimental value, 2) I can't afford to buy a car in this market, and tres) it 's a Korean luxobarge. It cannot be allowed to die until it's done LeMons. :getin:

Edit: actually, how does Kia number their cylinders? It's #2 and #4 having a problem, any chance they're both on the front?

Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Aug 13, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You need to look at live data to get closer to something that looks like a diagnosis. Yes, there is a chance it can be fuel injectors, but only a chance. And that doesn't mean there's something wrong with the injector(s), it could be electrical.

And no, mechanic in a bottle doesn't work, especially the stuff you put in a fuel tank. It's simply too diluted.

The only cleaning systems that work are similar to run-rite, where the vehicle is actually running off of the cleaning solution. It's not just being dumped into the fuel tank.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Sounds like a fuel delivery issue: dying fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
Do we have a dash cam thread? I don’t know where to start in looking for one but if there’s such a thing that comes on with the car, overwrites unused footage and just kinda does it’s own thing until I need to pull something that would be perfect.

I use a GoPro for my motorcycle but the idea of taking it, wiping it and charging it after every 2-3 car rides is a no go.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Rolo posted:

Do we have a dash cam thread? I don’t know where to start in looking for one but if there’s such a thing that comes on with the car, overwrites unused footage and just kinda does it’s own thing until I need to pull something that would be perfect.

I use a GoPro for my motorcycle but the idea of taking it, wiping it and charging it after every 2-3 car rides is a no go.

I've tried a few different ones over the years but so far I've been thrilled with the quality of the Viofo A119 I put in each of our three cars.

Dashcam thread: HERE

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
Thanks! Somehow I couldn’t find it. I’ll look at your rec too.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

two_beer_bishes posted:

I've tried a few different ones over the years but so far I've been thrilled with the quality of the Viofo A119 I put in each of our three cars.

Dashcam thread: HERE

I have the same camera. A dual camera version (which I plan to get at some point) is also available as the A129.

Get a hardwire kit while you're at it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

StormDrain posted:

Oh it did have a general misfire code, I think that was in the first post. It wasn't specific to that cylinder which I think is weird but perhaps the computer didn't have that kind of reporting.

My pet theory now is that plug was bent a little before install and got bent bad for some magical reason. A pebble? A violent preignition? (all seems unlikely).

He's gonna zip it back together, inspect the intake for cracking, and put that back on, and give it another shot. We're both leaving town tomorrow so it'll probably be waiting for a week.

Finally continuing on with this issue.

We started it up and it ran better, but it was seeking an idle after a bit. My friend didn't hook up the brake booster so there was a huge air leak, so that didn't help. Drove it round the block and it put us in limp home mode.

Took the spark plugs back off to check the condition and they all look good. Put it back together and it idled really nice but wouldn't go above 2k, because he failed to connect the throttle body electrical connector. When we did though, it ran worse. I had to ease it up in rpm and got it to about 5k, not able to go up to redline.

I'm feeling like it's got a misfire in the spark department, 180k miles seems like the old coils may be toast by now. Although I have little basis other than it fails and stumbles at low rpm. Smells plenty gassy so I doubt fuel delivery right now. The ordeal with the throttle body has me a bit intrigued though, as if it's not reading throttle position correctly.

He's going to toss some new coils at it and junkyard a throttle body for it, after that it's mechanic time.

Any guesses or suggestions are welcome.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

StormDrain posted:

Finally continuing on with this issue.

We started it up and it ran better, but it was seeking an idle after a bit. My friend didn't hook up the brake booster so there was a huge air leak, so that didn't help. Drove it round the block and it put us in limp home mode.

Took the spark plugs back off to check the condition and they all look good. Put it back together and it idled really nice but wouldn't go above 2k, because he failed to connect the throttle body electrical connector. When we did though, it ran worse. I had to ease it up in rpm and got it to about 5k, not able to go up to redline.

I'm feeling like it's got a misfire in the spark department, 180k miles seems like the old coils may be toast by now. Although I have little basis other than it fails and stumbles at low rpm. Smells plenty gassy so I doubt fuel delivery right now. The ordeal with the throttle body has me a bit intrigued though, as if it's not reading throttle position correctly.

He's going to toss some new coils at it and junkyard a throttle body for it, after that it's mechanic time.

Any guesses or suggestions are welcome.

Sorry what's the car again? From your *vagina it's not clear if the brake booster ever got hooked up. If there's a big unmetered air 'leak' it's a waste of time trying to figure anything out until that's taken care of.

E: sorry typo

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Aug 15, 2022

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Might want to reread that one, VelociBacon.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


from their whatnow

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Oh god sorry I fixed it

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

I’ve had similar-sounding issues caused by bad o2 sensors. Unplugging them should put the car into open loop, if it runs well then that’s your issue. Or in my case I usually called it “good enough” ‘cause it was on older cars that don’t use obd for emissions.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

StormDrain posted:

Any guesses or suggestions are welcome.

You need a code reader that can show live data. You should be looking for open/closed loop, long and short term fuel trims, etc.

Also, spraying it down with brake cleaner while it's running to see if there's a massive vacuum leak somewhere sounds like it's in order.

Len
Jan 21, 2008

Pouches, bandages, shoulderpad, cyber-eye...

Bitchin'!


I'm back with another dumb question. I have a 2015 Mitsubishi mirage and it doesn't like to move a short distance/run a short time and then start back up. Examples are backing it into the garage after washing it or forgetting to put my key in after using the remote start. I assume this isn't expected behavior but when I Google it I see other people reporting a similar issue

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Len posted:

I'm back with another dumb question. I have a 2015 Mitsubishi mirage and it doesn't like to move a short distance/run a short time and then start back up. Examples are backing it into the garage after washing it or forgetting to put my key in after using the remote start. I assume this isn't expected behavior but when I Google it I see other people reporting a similar issue

I would see what your system voltage is with the car running, alternator may be on it's way out IMO.

Zero One
Dec 30, 2004

HAIL TO THE VICTORS!
My F-150 came with a giant OEM radio antenna. I replaced it with an aftermarket short antenna. The problem is that the short one slowly starts to come loose every couple weeks and I need to retighten it.

Is there something I can use to keep it locked in place without 1) causing major interference with the radio signal and 2) not something permanent that would prevent removal of the antenna in the future? I have tried a couple dabs of gorilla glue on the exterior but it eventually wore away.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Zero One posted:

My F-150 came with a giant OEM radio antenna. I replaced it with an aftermarket short antenna. The problem is that the short one slowly starts to come loose every couple weeks and I need to retighten it.

Is there something I can use to keep it locked in place without 1) causing major interference with the radio signal and 2) not something permanent that would prevent removal of the antenna in the future? I have tried a couple dabs of gorilla glue on the exterior but it eventually wore away.

I'd put some blue loctite on there. A small amount on the threads and then screw the antenna on and let it sit for a little while. Should keep it from doing that.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Blue locktite. After you have thoroughly cleaned off the gorilla glue.

Zero One
Dec 30, 2004

HAIL TO THE VICTORS!

Motronic posted:

Blue locktite. After you have thoroughly cleaned off the gorilla glue.

Thanks. Glue is already gone. Washed away by the elements. And the car wash.

Len
Jan 21, 2008

Pouches, bandages, shoulderpad, cyber-eye...

Bitchin'!


VelociBacon posted:

I would see what your system voltage is with the car running, alternator may be on it's way out IMO.

How long is an alternator able to be on its way out? It's been doing this since at least January 2021

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

Motronic posted:

Blue locktite. After you have thoroughly cleaned off the gorilla glue.
I saw a new type of thread locker the other day: orange. The packaging claimed that it was three times stronger than blue but that fasteners secured with it could still be removed without heat. I bought some and have used it a couple of times, but I haven't had to remove anything with it yet. I also haven't had anything with "orange" thread locker come off all by itself, so that's good.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I would wipe down the threads with acetone (nail polish remover) and let it dry before applying loctite, so it can adhere to the raw metal. Otherwise you're going to have unknown results trying to adhere loctite to gorilla glue residue

Zero One
Dec 30, 2004

HAIL TO THE VICTORS!

Hadlock posted:

I would wipe down the threads with acetone (nail polish remover) and let it dry before applying loctite, so it can adhere to the raw metal. Otherwise you're going to have unknown results trying to adhere loctite to gorilla glue residue

To be clear, I didn't put glue on the threads. My experiment with it was limited to using it on the plastic where the antenna and car touched.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



My right rear wheel is getting hot to the touch and stinking after driving, I'm thinking that it has some kind of brake drag, is there anything I can do to test it without pulling off the drum? I have sworn off working on drum brakes after taking 10 hours to do a single one and doing it badly. One thought I had is that the exhaust does dump out right by that wheel so it could absorb more heat there but the stink is new.

I called the mechanic today and haven't heard back, I was planning on towing a trailer this weekend but I'm sure as hell not doing it with a sketchy brake.

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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Drive it, jack up that corner (or the whole rear end if you have a lsd) and try to spin it by hand.

Hot and smells bad is pretty damning though. This would be more of a confirmation than a oh cool it's OK test.

Do you use the parking brake? Part of that system locking up could cause the same symptoms. If you do you could stop using it and see if the symptoms quit.

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