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Samopsa
Nov 9, 2009

Krijgt geen speciaal kerstdiner!
Just blasting away with a floorpump with the tire in the right position, good tape, enough sealant, and some soapy water on all edges works for me.

It doubles as an amazing warming-up too.

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Sticky Date
Apr 4, 2009

Samopsa posted:

Just blasting away with a floorpump with the tire in the right position, good tape, enough sealant, and some soapy water on all edges works for me.

It doubles as an amazing warming-up too.

I do this with no sealant first, soapy water spray if it doesn't seat when dry, then put the sealant in via the valve with the core removed.

Cat Ass Trophy
Jul 24, 2007
I can do twice the work in half the time

Sticky Date posted:

I do this with no sealant first, soapy water spray if it doesn't seat when dry, then put the sealant in via the valve with the core removed.

Same. But I also soak the tire in HOT water first.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


Good news: new tires installed. Bad news: needed tubes, which are still in there.

Apparently WTB road rims suck so hard that the local shop won't set them up tubeless anymore.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

iospace posted:

Good news: new tires installed. Bad news: needed tubes, which are still in there.

Apparently WTB road rims suck so hard that the local shop won't set them up tubeless anymore.

Oooh, road tubeless. There's your problem.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


SimonSays posted:

Oooh, road tubeless. There's your problem.

Yup, ah well. The bead was still setting as I went home from the co-op

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



SimonSays posted:

Oooh, road tubeless. There's your problem.

Road tubeless owns

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

While we're here, is there some specific reason to run 650 instead of 700 wheels on a road bike? Like is it a size or handling thing, or is it more an aesthetic or personal preference thing?

I've noticed that at least with mtb's it seems to be common that the smaller sizes of a bike with 29's will come with 27.5 wheels instead and this makes sense to me, but I've seen some pretty small road bikes that still have 700 wheels.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Slavvy posted:

While we're here, is there some specific reason to run 650 instead of 700 wheels on a road bike? Like is it a size or handling thing, or is it more an aesthetic or personal preference thing?

I've noticed that at least with mtb's it seems to be common that the smaller sizes of a bike with 29's will come with 27.5 wheels instead and this makes sense to me, but I've seen some pretty small road bikes that still have 700 wheels.

The wheels really should be proportional to the frame but it adds some expense to the production.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


Clark Nova posted:

You can try it. Seat the tire with an innertube, unseat the bead on one side and take the tube out, put the valve in, then pump as hard as you can to try to reseat the bead. Take the valve core out and put sealant in through the valve once the tire is seated successfully

e: actually, taking the valve core out before you pump can get you more airflow

So thinking about this more, I'm gonna give this a try next weekend now that they're seated, for now.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Slavvy posted:

While we're here, is there some specific reason to run 650 instead of 700 wheels on a road bike? Like is it a size or handling thing, or is it more an aesthetic or personal preference thing?

I've noticed that at least with mtb's it seems to be common that the smaller sizes of a bike with 29's will come with 27.5 wheels instead and this makes sense to me, but I've seen some pretty small road bikes that still have 700 wheels.

For gravel bikes and things with bigger tires 650b allows you to run big fat tires and have the same overall diameter as a 700c wheel with narrower tires. Like my gravel bike is sold with 650b wheels with 54mm tires or 700c wheels with 35mm. Overall diameter is the same so it doesn't mess with the geometry or handling.

I think the size was originally created for smaller riders/smaller bikes and is used for that sometimes, but not nearly as often as it used to be.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That makes sense, does it mean that your bike has really big tyre clearance? Do they also have really long reach calipers or is that a wheel specific thing and you aren't really meant to swap back and forth?

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
The smaller rim diameter with a fatter tire also keeps the weight close to same as bigger rim with smaller tire which supposedly helps more with handling than the same combined diameter.

The original 650b tire was 32-584. In the French system number is wheel+tire diameter in millimeters and the letter is roughly the tire width. So 700c is 39-622 and 700b is 35-630, the 27" size.

From what I've read making low trail handling work with something like 39-622 tire is really hard so it makes sense the 650b size was preferred on the classic French tourers and randonneuses that the modern use of the tire size outside of mtb context is referring to.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Slavvy posted:

That makes sense, does it mean that your bike has really big tyre clearance?
Yes.

quote:

Do they also have really long reach calipers or is that a wheel specific thing and you aren't really meant to swap back and forth?

It's obviously easier to swap different setups if you have disc brakes. 35mm seems to be the practical limit for rim brakes that are still high quality enough to do serious riding on.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Slavvy posted:

That makes sense, does it mean that your bike has really big tyre clearance? Do they also have really long reach calipers or is that a wheel specific thing and you aren't really meant to swap back and forth?

Mine uses discs and being able to swap easily is a selling point. They sell wheel sets in either size that include a cassette and discs and i think they even sell the bike with both sets of wheels included.

On road bikes it was most common on higher end smaller size, women's and even children's road bikes that were built to use them. I wanna say most common in the 80s and 90s, or at least that's when all the bikes I've seen with them were from.

Edit: I mean most common recently. I'm sure they were more common back when the size was created but you don't really see those on craigslist

Dog Case fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Aug 15, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Dog Case posted:

Mine uses discs and being able to swap easily is a selling point. They sell wheel sets in either size that include a cassette and discs and i think they even sell the bike with both sets of wheels included.

Right I forgot discs on road bikes are a thing :sweatdrop:

That honestly sounds rad as gently caress, much less compromise for whatever you're doing.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

kimbo305 posted:

Yes.

It's obviously easier to swap different setups if you have disc brakes. 35mm seems to be the practical limit for rim brakes that are still high quality enough to do serious riding on.
Obviously these aren't going to be as stiff as a newer short reach dual pivot, but I'd say they have at least as good performance as an older high quality short reach single pivot.

They easily clear fenders and 42mm tires.


Though, you're not going to be swapping back and forth between wheel sizes with that.

Slavvy posted:

I've seen some pretty small road bikes that still have 700 wheels.
This drives me mad. Look at the size charts and see what they do with head tube and seat tube angles.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Aug 15, 2022

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

CopperHound posted:

Obviously these aren't going to be as stiff as a newer short reach dual pivot, but I'd say they have at least as good performance as an older high quality short reach single pivot.

They easily clear fenders and 42mm tires.


I had gotten a set for my 700c - 650b conversion. On the fork that I had, with 32c tires that maxed out the frame, i needed about 63mm of drop.
The 559s ended up looking weird with such a puny tire riding up pretty high on the arms, so I decided to file the slots of a Dia Compe center pull from 61 out to the 63 I needed :mrwhite:

I'm sure they're a staple of Rivendell's revenue stream.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Reading all the above, does that mean that I could theoretically get an elderly, rigid 27.5" MTB and fit skinny 700 wheels? Or would they have to be 650?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Slavvy posted:

Reading all the above, does that mean that I could theoretically get an elderly, rigid 27.5" MTB and fit skinny 700 wheels? Or would they have to be 650?

Likely could use 700c, especially if you're talking QR 100/135 hubs, which were on a slew of retired cross bikes.
The math is roughly
584 + 2 * 56mm (2.2") = 696
622 + 2 * 35mm = 692

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Slavvy posted:

Reading all the above, does that mean that I could theoretically get an elderly, rigid 27.5" MTB and fit skinny 700 wheels? Or would they have to be 650?

Depends on the frame but something like a 27.5” x 2.25” tire is a 2182mm circumference while a 700c x 32mm tire is a 2155mm circumference.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I know what my next project is now.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

kimbo305 posted:

Likely could use 700c, especially if you're talking QR 100/135 hubs, which were on a slew of retired cross bikes.

Also on most disc hybrids, cheap/old enough to be QR 29er MTBs and disc touring bikes. It's probably the most common wheel these days tbh.

Now if you want tubeless ya it's gonna be harder to find but not overly difficult.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
New frame is coming today. Last time I took it to the bike shop and had them take care of frame prep and install the headset, but I wanted to do that work on my own at the coop. I imagine they'll tell me what I should do, but was curious what all would normally get done because looking online and talking to a friend it's not really clear.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Mauser posted:

New frame is coming today. Last time I took it to the bike shop and had them take care of frame prep and install the headset, but I wanted to do that work on my own at the coop. I imagine they'll tell me what I should do, but was curious what all would normally get done because looking online and talking to a friend it's not really clear.

I think to call something frame prep, they'd have to at least face the bottom bracket shell and head tube. Maybe check the threads if it's a threaded shell.
I wouldn't consider spraying any frame saver inside the frame as part of normal prep, but they might do that if you got a fancy steel frame.

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I had a tuneup done last week from the LBS which was great except for one issue that cropped up during servicing. The tech was attempting to reset the pistons for my front hydraulic brakes, and caused a leak. They asked around for the issue and had me come back in to follow up on it -

In their words:

quote:

the leak happened when the system gets over pressurized, that’s why it happened when I reset your pistons and when I tried to bleed the system. When you pull the brake lever the system self closes to avoid over pressurizing the master cylinder under normal braking conditions. The leak came from the handlebar area, from the master cylinder/bladder. Basically there is a rubber gasket that likely got moved a little bit when the system was over pressurized. The plate that is holding on the gasket needs to be removed clean the gasket itself close the system and bleed it again.

After they performed those actions, I took the bike out for a spin, and noticed the front brake is ~2x less sensitive to what it used to be on brake pull (engages late, and I need to fully pull it in on descents to get anything out of it, and without much immediate bite, so feels kind of sketchy for emergency brake situations).

I have just sent them this info so we can follow up, but was wondering if this is a common scenario as a whole. The tech was nice (the followup was free of charge) and the rest of the tune up seems great, but I haven't had any brake issues till this servicing. I could also find another tech if this bike needs someone who specializes in these proprietary shimano shenanigans, but don't want to overreact to what may have been a simple mistep

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

I've run into a lot of brakes with just a tiny bit too much fluid in them to put in new pads, but I personally haven't seen it cause a diaphragm leak. Do you know which brakes they are? Now I am curious.

As for pulling the lever to the handlebars, I think they just need to try the bleed again.

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive

CopperHound posted:

I've run into a lot of brakes with just a tiny bit too much fluid in them to put in new pads, but I personally haven't seen it cause a diaphragm leak. Do you know which brakes they are? Now I am curious.

As for pulling the lever to the handlebars, I think they just need to try the bleed again.

* Shift-/ Brake Lever: Shimano Ultegra R8020 2s / 11s (the components for my bike list both 2s and 11s, not sure how to distinguish those)
* Brake rotor: Shimano RT800 (Tech identified this as slightly warped/bent, which is why they were reseting the piston to begin with (which led to the leak/this situation). They ended up replacing this rotor during the service.)

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

Thom ZombieForm posted:

* Shift-/ Brake Lever: Shimano Ultegra R8020 2s / 11s (the components for my bike list both 2s and 11s, not sure how to distinguish those)

The 2s is referring to your left/front shifter, and the 11s is referring to your right/rear shifter.

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.
Speaking of disc brakes: on my Ultegra di2 hydraulic disc levers, the right (rear brake) lever doesn’t return to its resting position after braking. Is there a return spring in the assembly that is supposed to cause it to return, or just the hydraulic cylinder? I recently bled the brakes and installed new pads, and can’t detect any brake dragging, so the system works fine as far as I can tell.

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive

TacoHavoc posted:

The 2s is referring to your left/front shifter, and the 11s is referring to your right/rear shifter.

Thanks.

The tech independently came to the conclusion to perform another bleed this Friday, so that seems to align with expectations here! I found a couple of google links for handling (what seems to be) this issue for my specific brakes - is it rude to send one to the tech with a "hey btw saw this, maybe helpful?" I do not want to be "that guy"

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I'm always surprised when they don't test ride after a bleed. That would have caught this pretty easily.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

tylertfb posted:

Speaking of disc brakes: on my Ultegra di2 hydraulic disc levers, the right (rear brake) lever doesn’t return to its resting position after braking. Is there a return spring in the assembly that is supposed to cause it to return, or just the hydraulic cylinder? I recently bled the brakes and installed new pads, and can’t detect any brake dragging, so the system works fine as far as I can tell.

Just the cylinder. You probably need to clean the pistons.

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

bicievino posted:

Just the cylinder. You probably need to clean the pistons.

Pistons in the brake caliper itself, or the master cylinder in the brake lever? (is that what it's called?)


*aside: a guy from what I'm assuming is your Seattle track was down here in San Diego last Tuesday and whipped up on our tuesday night As races. His last name was Herts or Hertz or something.

TenementFunster
Feb 20, 2003

The Cooler King
tried to replace the headset on my bianchi after it got goofed in the last theft attempts and OH MAN removing crown races is now my least favorite thing. plus, the new headset i ordered didn't even fit! i'm a moron!

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

TenementFunster posted:

tried to replace the headset on my bianchi after it got goofed in the last theft attempts and OH MAN removing crown races is now my least favorite thing. plus, the new headset i ordered didn't even fit! i'm a moron!

This one seems to be the cheapest of its style
https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-Crown-Race-Removal-Tool-254-286

It's worth having if you have to, say, 3 crown race removals ever.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Thom ZombieForm posted:

I had a tuneup done last week from the LBS which was great except for one issue that cropped up during servicing. The tech was attempting to reset the pistons for my front hydraulic brakes, and caused a leak. They asked around for the issue and had me come back in to follow up on it -

In their words:

After they performed those actions, I took the bike out for a spin, and noticed the front brake is ~2x less sensitive to what it used to be on brake pull (engages late, and I need to fully pull it in on descents to get anything out of it, and without much immediate bite, so feels kind of sketchy for emergency brake situations).

I have just sent them this info so we can follow up, but was wondering if this is a common scenario as a whole. The tech was nice (the followup was free of charge) and the rest of the tune up seems great, but I haven't had any brake issues till this servicing. I could also find another tech if this bike needs someone who specializes in these proprietary shimano shenanigans, but don't want to overreact to what may have been a simple mistep

I've never heard of issue like that. If they think they did something so dramatic as to damage the seals inside the lever assembly I think they should be doing a full rebuild or replacement.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

tylertfb posted:

Pistons in the brake caliper itself, or the master cylinder in the brake lever? (is that what it's called?)


*aside: a guy from what I'm assuming is your Seattle track was down here in San Diego last Tuesday and whipped up on our tuesday night As races. His last name was Herts or Hertz or something.

Matti! He's my Madison partner.
He was down there doing a focused pursuit workout block at LA in advance of masters worlds.

For the brakes: try cleaning the pistons in the caliper itself. Remove pads, gently advance the pistons (too far and they can fall out). Use a thin clean rag or q-tip to wipe around the piston, then apply a bit of mineral oil, then push them back in.

bicievino fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Aug 19, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

bicievino posted:

Matti! He's my Madison partner.
He was down there doing a focused pursuit workout block at LA in advance of masters worlds.

For the brakes: try cleaning the pistons in the caliper itself. Remove pads, gently advance the pistons (too far and they can fall out). Use a thin clean rag or q-tip to wipe around the piston, then apply a bit of mineral oil, then push them back in.

Another really good way of cleaning the pistons is to take a shoelace with degreaser on it and articulate it through the caliper, trying to get it on all exposed sides of the pistons.

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Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



i recently took the pedals off of my sons bike to get him some balance practice (he was doing training wheels, but couldn't quite get the balancing part).

i still have a chain looped to the frame on it, so i ordered a crappy chain tool. unless the $15 set i got from Amazon is actually decent, what do y'all recommend for bang-for-buck on that?

Also, Id love some recommendations on what to use for grease (like for the seat post), grease for the bearings, chain lube, etc. i know i could buy stuff from the bike shop, but id like to be a bit more frugal. i just have no idea what to use on a bike if it isn't labeled, and am too ignorant without a "just buy this" kind of instruction

thanks! i have no idea what im doing here.

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