|
As usual, I'm going to toss out my recommendation for Schumacher. I accidentally collected 4 different chargers by them of different ages and capacities and they're the only chargers I've used that work consistently. I think there was one goon that had a problem with one of their chargers but didn't go into detail?
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 06:57 |
|
|
# ? May 15, 2024 17:44 |
|
Cat Hatter posted:As usual, I'm going to toss out my recommendation for Schumacher. I accidentally collected 4 different chargers by them of different ages and capacities and they're the only chargers I've used that work consistently. I have one that I bought a few weeks ago because there really weren't any other options at the advance auto closest to portland maine while my truck was sitting nosed in and dead in a single garage bay of an air b&b after sitting all week and my leaving a radio on and needing to be in Newry a few hours from then for NEFR. Like most cheap automatic chargers it was loving useless. Battery voltage was too low for it to even attempt to do anything, unlike the CTeks that have been discussed here. So $80 on a charger, $40 on an Uber and I still ended up paying a tow truck $200 to come by and literally hand me their jump box for 3 minutes. That's my review of Schumaker chargers.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 14:28 |
|
I too had a problem with a Schumacher. Just up and died after only about 2-3 years of very light usage.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 14:47 |
|
I can say for sure the Harbor Freight "computerized" battery chargers are absolute trash. They won't charge a full dead battery and they just stop working entirely after a year or so. As for bolt management, my strategy is to put them back where they came from as much as possible during disassembly. If I think something might be easy to miss during re-assembly or if a bolt holds down multiple parts in a sandwich I'll mark all the connected parts and the bolt with a particular color of paint marker. The paint marker is also a great help for marking positions of things like tie rod end jam nuts. Also a great help for "reinforcing' hard-to-read (or missing) timing marks. Egg boxes are good for stuff like cam bearing caps and buckets. Just make sure you mark which end of the egg box corresponds to the front of the engine. I use different color and size zip ties to match up wire connectors and vacuum lines. I put matching ties on each end of a severed connection and cut them off as I re-assemble. Zip ties can also be used to hold a bolt to its companion part if the part has a hole with no threads.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 15:34 |
|
The 4.3 pays for itself if you're bad at taking your batteries inside over winter. Two car batteries, two pickup batteries, mower battery, and a tractor battery have been brought back to useable condition with the thing. I'm going to pick up a trickle charger from them next.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 16:37 |
|
For bolt management I have used the ‘tackle box with a paper map’ method. Make sure you find one that has the dividers go ALL THE WAY to the lid. I’ve now spent $200 on pieces and parts to go with my ‘free’ air compressor, which means I am able to inflate a tire. I have a blasting cabinet that I want to use; what kind of air dryer should I be getting? I want to make a big copper pipe one on the wall, eventually, but for now I need to stick with one that isn’t a project by itself. I’m not opposed to desiccant but I live in a rainforest and have concerns about the rate of consumption. I plan to use walnut media if that matters. My compressor is oil-free.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 16:52 |
|
I picked up some inline filters from Eastwood for painting, you might need something electronic with your humidity. You could try making your own out of pipe fittings, screen, and a ton of silica beads. If you know how to get one for cheap a dehydrating breather from a transformer could dry the air before entering the compressor.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 17:08 |
|
Suburban Dad posted:I usually just try to thread them back in a few threads when I remove stuff and that usually gets me 90% there. Maybe I'll learn. Next time. The problem with the 'screw it back in halfway' method is that you can forget to retighten the occasional bolt when reassembling things. Taking them out all the way and putting them somewhere indexed - like pushing them through a sheet of cardboard - is a good reminder that you've not finished the job yet. Ask the shop that reassembled the front suspension of my miata, got distracted halfway through the job, and left a bunch of nuts barely started on the thread...
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 17:08 |
|
Motronic posted:I have one that I bought a few weeks ago because there really weren't any other options at the advance auto closest to portland maine while my truck was sitting nosed in and dead in a single garage bay of an air b&b after sitting all week and my leaving a radio on and needing to be in Newry a few hours from then for NEFR. To be fair, none of my chargers are smarter than "turns off when charged", because I don't trust smart chargers. It's probably the one thing I'm an old boomer about. Love my fancy lithium jump box though.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 18:43 |
|
Advent Horizon posted:I’ve now spent $200 on pieces and parts to go with my ‘free’ air compressor, which means I am able to inflate a tire. I have a blasting cabinet that I want to use; what kind of air dryer should I be getting? I want to make a big copper pipe one on the wall, eventually, but for now I need to stick with one that isn’t a project by itself. I found that a lot of my moisture problems improved a great deal just from opening the drain valve after every compressor cycle or every other compressor cycle. I will add that the media blaster works my 60 gallon tank and 240VAC oiled compressor harder (10.3cfm@90psi) than anything else I have ever done with my shop air. It isn't even close. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Aug 15, 2022 |
# ? Aug 15, 2022 18:44 |
|
meltie posted:The problem with the 'screw it back in halfway' method is that you can forget to retighten the occasional bolt when reassembling things. The way I do it is pull part off, then thread bolts back in (say like pulling off the water pump, thread bolts back into the block) until I put part back on. I haven't really screwed up something using this method so far (that I know of ).
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 19:31 |
|
Suburban Dad posted:The way I do it is pull part off, then thread bolts back in (say like pulling off the water pump, thread bolts back into the block) until I put part back on. I haven't really screwed up something using this method so far (that I know of ). Fair enough!
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 20:01 |
|
PBCrunch posted:I found that a lot of my moisture problems improved a great deal just from opening the drain valve after every compressor cycle or every other compressor cycle. This is just a tabletop cabinet for now, though I’ll have to do a chassis or two eventually. I guess now I’m leaning toward doing a copper pipe condenser and being done with it. Is there any reason it can’t be outside? I’m keeping the compressor next to the door and plan to wheel it outside for use. This is for 2 reasons: 1) It’s loud AF 2) there’s an outlet outside that has a dedicated breaker. If I hung the tubing from the deck above my garage door it would be hidden from view and take advantage of my outdoor air temperature having an annual mean of 42.1*F (5.6*C).
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 20:36 |
|
meltie posted:The problem with the 'screw it back in halfway' method is that you can forget to retighten the occasional bolt when reassembling things. How? If you were, for example, taking the water pump off and putting the bolts back into the empty block, you'd need to take them back off to put the new pump on. I think that suspension shop just got to the "don't fully tighten down hardware until the car's weight is on the suspension" step and then forgot to do the "now fully torque bolts to spec" step. That said, the cardboard method works best. I did that when I had to fully disassemble my dash to replace the AC evaporator and it worked great. Unfortunately, every job since then has been comparatively simpler so I just decide to wing it.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2022 20:38 |
|
I use my amazing ability to memorize useless information to simply remember exactly where every bolt came from, because I might as well use it for something and it's certainly not going to be for anything that would actually lead to me bettering myself or getting ahead in life. That part of my brain is for remembering where bolts go back in a truck in 2019 after removing them in 2014.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 04:03 |
|
I have a magnetic tray stuck to my toolbox with pieces left over from doing the radiator and water pump in my wife’s Mazda B2600i. There’s a large diameter bolt, a couple normal-looking bolts, a really long sheetmetal screw, and an entire bracket of some kind. I started labeling every nut and bolt after that.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 04:52 |
|
kastein posted:I use my amazing ability to memorize useless information to simply remember exactly where every bolt came from, because I might as well use it for something and it's certainly not going to be for anything that would actually lead to me bettering myself or getting ahead in life. That part of my brain is for remembering where bolts go back in a truck in 2019 after removing them in 2014. i always think i am going to do this (and, to be fair, it probably would work if i reassembled it soon after disassembly) and then i come back to it a couple years later and get mad
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 05:08 |
|
I just forget like a cool person.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 05:35 |
|
You know you’ve got a problem whenthe bolts from three half finished projects end up in the same bin
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 05:44 |
|
It's not a project if 75% of the time wasn't spent on looking for nuts and bolts.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 11:51 |
|
Muffin pan and sharpie to note what the bolts/nuts/screws are meant to go to for each cavity
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 13:23 |
|
When I last replaced my clutch I did the push the bolts through a piece of cardboard in roughly the same orientation as they were in the bellhousing and it worked out ok. This method only really works when you're dealing with everything on the same plane, unless you want to write some notes next to where all the random bolts go.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 14:49 |
|
I too have done the cardboard thing for a bellhousing. Generally speaking though, if it's a re&re and it's more than a few I'll typically either thread them back in the hole they came from as soon as the part is out or put them in the old part and just take them out as I'm putting the new part in. I haven't had any leftover fasteners for quite a long time.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 16:14 |
|
For those of you looking for tools, Tekton has a bunch of poo poo on sale. https://www.tekton.com/search?page=...36784-128383256
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 23:33 |
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:For those of you looking for tools, Tekton has a bunch of poo poo on sale. You bastard I just placed a tekton order a few days ago. (I'm very pleased with what showed up: )
|
# ? Aug 16, 2022 23:53 |
|
I can't belive nobody's talking about bagging and tagging bolts. Whatever part comes off first, say the intake, the bolts go in a zip lock with intake and #1 written on it. Next part, say the fuel rail gets that and #2. It's especially good for long term projects and making sure you reinstall in the correct reverse order. Only downside is you'll have to sort different length bolts homes but it's normally not an issue.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2022 03:14 |
|
Motronic posted:You bastard I just placed a tekton order a few days ago.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2022 12:03 |
|
Has anyone ever ordered from https://clipsandfasteners.com?It looks like they have a ton of generic replacements for all the manufacturer-specific trim fasteners.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2022 17:40 |
|
Advent Horizon posted:Has anyone ever ordered from https://clipsandfasteners.com?It looks like they have a ton of generic replacements for all the manufacturer-specific trim fasteners. Yep! I've only ordered a few times from them, but no complaints with what I have ordered or how things went. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Aug 19, 2022 |
# ? Aug 19, 2022 01:09 |
|
I ordered a 10-pack of Breeze hose clamps after Project Farm’s video…This is what showed up: Thanks, Amazon.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2022 01:28 |
|
I've had that happen, once on an allegedly 6 pack of hydrogen peroxide and once on a ten pack of GM oil drain plug gaskets. Bastards.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2022 01:38 |
|
Well, Amazon can pay UPS to take this single clamp back and give me a refund. I contacted the manufacturer about buying an entire hardware store display. If I’m going to be stocking hardware in my garage I may as well go all-in.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2022 02:11 |
|
I've had several of those bubble wrap envelopes show up empty due to the side splitting open and dumping the contents somewhere between the packing line and my house.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2022 02:27 |
|
I've had such good shipping until this week when I've gotten a package returned due to damage and I wasn't notified, and my cat food came with holes in the bag and leaked out, two days apart.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2022 04:38 |
|
Advent Horizon posted:Has anyone ever ordered from https://clipsandfasteners.com?It looks like they have a ton of generic replacements for all the manufacturer-specific trim fasteners. I've ordered appox $5k of stuff from them over the last two years. I did find a supplier that's cheaper, but since Covid he's been hit or miss. Both are authorized Auveco dealers. https://www.auveco.com
|
# ? Aug 21, 2022 18:35 |
|
Got my initial orders from both Bolt Depot and Clips and Fasteners. Both shipped very quickly, were reasonable shipping with USPS, and the packaging was great. No loose stuff from either company, it was all either the original packaging or good-quality baggies with labels.
|
# ? Aug 23, 2022 15:46 |
|
Advent Horizon posted:Well, Amazon can pay UPS to take this single clamp back and give me a refund. Can you share what they sorta price they came up with? I'm considering it too, mostly because shipping stuff to the Caribbean is a pain, and if one hardware store in the country is out of m8 bolts, all of them are (and they only reorder once every ~9 months!)
|
# ? Aug 23, 2022 17:58 |
|
I asked for pricing on the 100% stainless assortment, it’s the one in the upper right: The price they gave me was $208.14, so basically $1 per clamp plus the display rack. I haven’t asked about shipping yet but I’m probably going to order and not worry about hose clamps for a long time.
|
# ? Aug 23, 2022 18:25 |
|
Breeze is what they carry at West Marine and they are decent for perforated clamps, for automotive use they should be fine for 99% of applications. In hot salty boat engine compartments they have a tendency to corrode at the thinnest parts and break. I generally replace them with Norma/Scandvik/ABA embossed clamps, the bands are solid everywhere so there’s a lot more meat to corrode through before they pop. I haven’t had too many fail on me. They are also 5x the price of the Breezes.
|
# ? Aug 23, 2022 21:56 |
|
|
# ? May 15, 2024 17:44 |
|
Big Taint posted:Breeze is what they carry at West Marine and they are decent for perforated clamps, for automotive use they should be fine for 99% of applications. In hot salty boat engine compartments they have a tendency to corrode at the thinnest parts and break. I generally replace them with Norma/Scandvik/ABA embossed clamps, the bands are solid everywhere so there’s a lot more meat to corrode through before they pop. I haven’t had too many fail on me. They are also 5x the price of the Breezes. But the screw is actually stainless and not just the band? Sounds like it from what you said, but I've had mixed results with "stainless" clamps and found some of them are just that lovely.
|
# ? Aug 23, 2022 22:18 |