|
Wrong thread.
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2022 17:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 00:47 |
|
|
I have a really old power amp, an Acoustech 1A, that I would like to connect to my new preamp, a Schiit Freya+. The Acoustech has single TS connections for each channel, and the Freya has dual red/white RCAs. I have no idea how to reconcile these:  I have some TS to RCA cables, but they're all TS pairs to RCA pairs. I'm mystified by how I should be wiring these up. Do I just leave one of the RCAs on the Freya disconnected? [edit] I'm dumb, there's two sets of SE outs for multiple power amps, which I'm not doing. I answered my own question. ephori fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Apr 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2022 05:26
|
|
|
I love that someone decided that TS should be used for both line-level and speaker-level signals. Good job that guy. (I know it's common in lots of equipment. It's still stupid.)
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2022 06:31
|
|
|
You can get single TS to dual rca, I have one from some old/wierd speaker amp setup, that I don't recall why I needed it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2022 20:56
|
|
|
ephori posted:I have a really old power amp, an Acoustech 1A, that I would like to connect to my new preamp, a Schiit Freya+. The Acoustech has single TS connections for each channel, and the Freya has dual red/white RCAs. I have no idea how to reconcile these: yes Edit: you might wanna make double dog sure that you’re connecting like-to-like and whatnot, wrt what’s actually tip/sleeve on the amplifier vs what some off-the-shelf TS-to-RCA cable has it wired up as, before you accidentally fry your 60+ year old amp or your $1k preamp trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Apr 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2022 21:04
|
|
|
Audio signals are AC so it wouldn't matter if they were reversed except if you were trying to match phase across amplifiers.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2022 23:19
|
|
|
I just bought a Denon AVR-S660H and I'm having pretty frequent problems with it. Current setup is HDMI from sources (PS5, Xbox 360, Switch) to Receiver, HDMI out to TV. Sometimes this all works and everything is peachy, other times: Turn on Receiver and switch to the 360 input. Picture comes through, but no sound comes through. Receiver displays "DPL Gm". Turning Receiver on and off doesn't fix this. Switching inputs back and forth also doesn't affect it. If I go in to settings on the Xbox and change from Surround to Stereo then back to surround it fixes it. If I turn the 360 off and on again it fixes itself. Same deal with PS5, turn on, "DPL Gm", No sound. In this case turning PS5 off and on again doesn't fix. Receiver off/on doesn't fix either. Have to go in to settings on PS5, change sound priority from Linear to Dolby or DTS. At that point swapping back to Linear works fine. No problems with Switch or other sources so far. Anything I can change in the settings to fix this? It's annoying to have to fiddle with the settings in the PS5 or 360 every few times I use them. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2022 17:15
|
|
|
No idea, but the most stupid fix could be using a different input or HDMI cable. Maybe you already tried that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2022 17:57
|
|
|
I've got a Denon X4500H with a 5.2.4 setup right now. I'm looking to use the last two pre-amp outs to go to a 7.2.4 setup. I have the option of providing my own amp for either two of the Heights (which I assume could be powered by any amp really?) or for the two Fronts. In reading, seems like some folks think it's easier to just get a cheap amp for the two Heights and let the AVR drive everything else, while others prefer to get a nicer amp for the two Fronts that performs better than the AVR. Anyone faced this decision before and went one way or the other? Also, any amp suggestions? The Heights are just the Micca 8" ceiling speakers, the Fronts are Kef R3's. Also, while we're here, I'm looking at options for the new rears for the 7.2.4 setup, and trying to figure out how to mount them. I was looking at maybe the Elac Debut 2.0 on-wall options, or getting some wall mount brackets for bookshelf speakers, or something like that. Thanks for any advice or opinions!
|
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2022 22:37
|
|
|
how would i set up a fader between discord and everything else in windows?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 00:23
|
|
|
The size is right for my desk. Is this a good deal/product? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKH3VPV edit: I use voicemeeter banana as a nice free software mixer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 19:26
|
|
|
I need a recommendation. We are moving in a couple weeks and I've negotiated enough shelf space to have a smallish stereo in the living room. I have a pair of Polk S15 bookshelf speakers collecting dust and picked up a Wiim Mini on discount, plus a Topping D3 DAC. My original plan was to run the output of the DAC to a Marantz 1070 that my dad has stashed in a closet at his house, but that has (reasonably) been nixed on account of it being rather large to keep on a shared bookshelf. Plan B was to pick up a Fosi Audio BT-20A but it only has a single input, and my wife has a combo phono/CD/radio she would like to connect as well. I guess what I need is a basic, cheap, COMPACT receiver in the $100 range, used or new. Obviously none of this is audiophile grade equipment and the room will be sub-optimal in many ways, so I don't have great expectations, just need a few boxes checked. My requirements: Enough power to drive the S15s (100W-ish) and still sound decent, not be super janky, minimum of 2 RCA inputs or 1 RCA+1 aux Her requirements: Compact, doesn't need to install an app to use her record player (which rules out running it into the aux in of the Wiim Mini) Nice to have: Remote and/or OPTIONAL app, optical in with decent DAC (could do away with the D30S if so) Not necessary: Bluetooth and/or AirPlay (Wiim Mini has this covered) Anyone have or use anything like this? Or should I maybe look into a small switchbox to pair with the Fosi? Edit: I forgot there is a separate thread for recommendations/basic equipment selection. Oops 
Discussion Quorum fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Aug 17, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 20:06
|
|
|
Discussion Quorum posted:I need a recommendation. We are moving in a couple weeks and I've negotiated enough shelf space to have a smallish stereo in the living room. I have a pair of Polk S15 bookshelf speakers collecting dust and picked up a Wiim Mini on discount, plus a Topping D30S DAC. My original plan was to run the output of the DAC to a Marantz 1070 that my dad has stashed in a closet at his house, but that has (reasonably) been nixed on account of it being rather large to keep on a shared bookshelf. Your best bet is probably searching Craigslist for a used av receiver but it won’t be compact. You’re asking for a lot for $100. On todays market $100 doesn’t get you 100watts of clean amplification, I don’t know if it ever did.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 20:13
|
|
|
I'm an idiot who is considering getting into vinyl just for the tactile experience of getting high and putting on a record. What's the to-go decent but not expensive record player that doesn't require a bunch of loving around to use? IIRC, $150-200 was a decent budget in the before-times, but that might not be the case now Edit: maybe this? Audio-Technica AT-LP60X-BK Fully Automatic Belt-Drive Stereo Turntable, Black, Hi-Fi, 2 Speed, Dust Cover, Anti-Resonance, Die-Cast Aluminum Platter https://a.co/d/52aNNn6 KillHour fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Aug 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 20:33
|
|
|
KillHour posted:I'm an idiot who is considering getting into vinyl just for the tactile experience of getting high and putting on a record. An AT120 is more like $300, fluance rt81 about $250. Used could be less but you’d have to know what you’re getting
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 20:40
|
|
|
I could probably justify $250 if the Fluance is just leaps and bounds better than the cheap Audio Technica I linked. Looking at the AT120, that thing seems way more serious than I need.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 20:45
|
|
|
KillHour posted:I'm an idiot who is considering getting into vinyl just for the tactile experience of getting high and putting on a record. This is fine for your needs and it already has a phono preamp. There's a model with Bluetooth that's $50 more. Just remember you'll still need a receiver+speakers or active speakers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 20:56
|
|
|
I have a Denon S760-H with a phono input so I don't even need the preamp. I just didn't see many without it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 21:04
|
|
|
LRADIKAL posted:The size is right for my desk. Is this a good deal/product? Yesssss. I have the R-15PMs which are fairly similar. Great speakers
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 21:34
|
|
|
Brain Issues posted:Your best bet is probably searching Craigslist for a used av receiver but it won’t be compact. You’re asking for a lot for $100. On todays market $100 doesn’t get you 100watts of clean amplification, I don’t know if it ever did. I think the 100W thing is a red herring, I just blindly pasted from the speaker specs. Even the Marantz is only 35wpc, and I know from experience (it was in the living room growing up) that it can get far louder than I would ever need. Looks like the Loxjie A30 is probably what I need, it's a bit more than I wanted to spend ($170) but not that much more, and it's a lot smaller than the $200ish Sony receivers that get recommended a lot. ASR and Reddit seem to like it, for whatever that's worth. Will share a trip report and return it if it sucks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 22:12
|
|
|
Discussion Quorum posted:I think the 100W thing is a red herring, I just blindly pasted from the speaker specs. Even the Marantz is only 35wpc, and I know from experience (it was in the living room growing up) that it can get far louder than I would ever need. Looks like the Loxjie A30 is probably what I need, it's a bit more than I wanted to spend ($170) but not that much more, and it's a lot smaller than the $200ish Sony receivers that get recommended a lot. ASR and Reddit seem to like it, for whatever that's worth. Will share a trip report and return it if it sucks. Yep. There’s cheaper ones too. Loxjie makes a whole range of amps including a weird pyramid (that needs a separate preamp/source) that’s $60 right now. I’m glad you found the tiny class-D amps because that’s what I was going to suggest. The 100wpc is more of a suggestion/ballpark/suggested maximum than anything else. Even something like a 1-10watt tube amp would drive those speakers to at least listenable level.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2022 00:03
|
|
|
I've started using my headphones for more than just video games and I'm noticing the volume doesn't go as high as I'd like for music. I need a headphone amp or USB DAC to fix that, right? I'm using a pair of Samson SR-850s plugged in to my monitor which is getting the audio through DisplayPort. Nothing fancy so if there's something recommended which is cheap, decent, and available in Canada that would be perfect.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2022 05:58
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:I've started using my headphones for more than just video games and I'm noticing the volume doesn't go as high as I'd like for music. I need a headphone amp or USB DAC to fix that, right? I'm using a pair of Samson SR-850s plugged in to my monitor which is getting the audio through DisplayPort. Nothing fancy so if there's something recommended which is cheap, decent, and available in Canada that would be perfect. I’d get nicer headphones before getting an amp. There’s an entire industry’s worth of cans out there that would be a notable upgrade from your current set, and you’d notice that exponentially more than hooking up an amp.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2022 09:30
|
|
|
Quick question / real-talk me... I have a Topping D90 + A90 combo that has been working great. I upgraded from my trusty 2600K-based system (So Intel / P67 chipset) to a Threadripper 3960X after a good long decade of use. Threadripper systems / TRX40 chipset systems lack an audio codec, so most mobo vendors slap a Realtek codec on there. Intel being Intel, I never had a single goddamned issue with drivers / any single chipset peripheral, and the SPDIF output served me well -- zero issues with the D90. Realtek... jesus christ. I've tried updating drivers, but I often lose sound / the D90 reports "--- kHz" on the optical input, and a reboot / loving with the Windows sound settings usually fixes it. I can't tell what specifically is going on, but I never had to deal with this before. I think it's just a piece of poo poo, personally (or at least the drivers are). This has been a solved goddamn problem since the late 1990s. I like using optical because the mobo sound implementation quality is irrelevant, it's optically isolated / there's no ground hum chance (even though I'm fully balanced these days) and the cables are like $0.25. So -- my question is, USB vs. SPDIF? The D90 has a USB interface as well. Rather than getting a new sound card (what would I even buy these days?) with an optical connection, I could just hook up a USB cable and call it a day. I hate USB with a burning passion (just philosophically / technically / software-wise, it's a terrible protocol) and I think the D90 runs the input stream through an XMOS and upsamples/fucks with it. I just want the least molested bits from my PC getting to the DAC inside the D90. Just plug in a USB cable and call it a day, or get whatever the most decent driver-supported / chipset based PCIe x1 sound card with a SPDIF output is? I currently have no spare slots but I also don't need my Firewire card.... comedy option if someone makes a M.2 sound card with a SPDIF output!
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 20:40
|
|
|
Just use USB, it's fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2022 22:00
|
|
|
USB
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2022 06:37
|
|
|
I'm sure this question has been asked many times, but I searched and didn't see anything. How can I use my PS5 or Anbernic/Chinese knock-off handheld or any other HDMI device and have it play audio through tv speakers AND headphones simultaneously? I have some great open-back headphones but my partner doesn't want to use a headphone splitter; she would prefer to hear things through the TV speakers. From what I have read the ability to play through both is dependent on the input device, i.e. the TV in these cases. We have a pretty cheap TCL tv and I don't think it has that option. Is there any hope for this situation? I know they make HDMI splitters but we don't have a receiver and 2, I am a dummy. Please help because I want to hear the great sound design in my favorite PlayStation branded games. God bless
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 19:26
|
|
|
If your tv has an optical out you may be able to do both with a cheap DAC. They’ll probably have separate volume control which could be a good or bad thing since optical is usually full volume.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2022 00:33
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:I’d get nicer headphones before getting an amp. There’s an entire industry’s worth of cans out there that would be a notable upgrade from your current set, and you’d notice that exponentially more than hooking up an amp. I just need a bit more volume, otherwise I'm fine with my current headphones since I'm not much of an audiophile and they sound good to me. I'm under the impression that a proper amp would be much cheaper than a new set of decent headphones (which won't solve the underlying volume issue), but maybe I'm wrong about that. Someone local is selling one of these for $15 which I'm thinking of trying out. It's already assembled so I won't have the fun of putting it together, but for the price I can't complain. https://www.amb.org/audio/mini3/
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2022 19:04
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:I just need a bit more volume, otherwise I'm fine with my current headphones since I'm not much of an audiophile and they sound good to me. I'm under the impression that a proper amp would be much cheaper than a new set of decent headphones (which won't solve the underlying volume issue), but maybe I'm wrong about that. You’re wrong about that. Also the thing you linked to is a waste of money and a bunch of unnecessary complexity. Edit: I’m not trying to be lovely but the Samson headphones you posted about are Behringer quality junk. They literally exist so music stores + Samson Tech can make crazy profit selling $3 cans for $35 to gullible people who think they’re being thrifty because they didn’t spend $60 on KOSS, or give them away as pack-ins in promotional bundles. Buying an amplifier for them, any amplifier, is like putting a cold air intake and a downpipe and a bunch of performance mods on a Jeep Compass. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Sep 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2022 21:05
|
|
|
Sorry, I don't know what any of that means. I got these with my digital piano ten years ago and they haven't made me wanting for more. I just want a bit more volume out of my headphones because someone is staying with me for a couple months so I'm trying to be a good host by not blasting stuff out of my speakers. I'm open to whatever suggestions you have in the $50-$100 CAD range that will also get me more volume.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2022 21:23
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:Sorry, I don't know what any of that means. I got these with my digital piano ten years ago and they haven't made me wanting for more. I just want a bit more volume out of my headphones because someone is staying with me for a couple months so I'm trying to be a good host by not blasting stuff out of my speakers. I'm open to whatever suggestions you have in the $50-$100 CAD range that will also get me more volume. your current headphones are open-back, one of the first things you can do is switch to a closed-back headphone like the AT M20x or M30x or M40x. For a bit more you could also look at the AKG K361/371 Sony MDR7506 My hunch is that even something like KOSS KPH30i or Porta Pros would be louder, but there’s no over ear seal Also you could look at earbuds or IEMs. Those will be way louder to you and less intrusive to your guests because they literally go in your ears and seal to some varying degree. Those can cost anything from $20-100. Any of the headphones I mentioned here should work a treat for your needs without amplification. Maybe one of the $9 Apple USB DAC dongles if you want noise isolation.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2022 21:44
|
|
|
Thanks, I found someone selling an ATH-M40x down the street from me for a hundred bucks (I'm assuming that's what you meant, AT M20x doesn't pull anything up). Gonna try to meet up to test them out and if they're as good as you say I'll grab them. Hopefully counterfeit headphones aren't a very common thing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2022 22:39
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:Thanks, I found someone selling an ATH-M40x down the street from me for a hundred bucks (I'm assuming that's what you meant, AT M20x doesn't pull anything up). Gonna try to meet up to test them out and if they're as good as you say I'll grab them. Hopefully counterfeit headphones aren't a very common thing. Yup, that’s what I meant- Audio Technica. ATH-Mx0x
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 00:48
|
|
|
Seller was able to drop by my place and I was able to do an side-by-side test with audio being output from each display simultaneously with the exact same DAC and everything. It felt like it was only a little bit louder, but it was certainly clearer. I said I'd think about it since I also found a pair of those Sony headphones locally, but then he dropped the price so I ended up grabbing them. Can't wait to run it through its paces when I get back home.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 19:02
|
|
|
qirex posted:If your tv has an optical out you may be able to do both with a cheap DAC. They’ll probably have separate volume control which could be a good or bad thing since optical is usually full volume. It's a Roku tv and it says 7105x The TCL model is 55S405 So it must be this one I don't think it has an optical out, in this case, but part of the page won't load for me 
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 22:28
|
|
|
The pdf spec sheet under downloads says it does have a SPDIF Digital Audio Optical output.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
Oh wow, sweet So something like this $15 DAC from Amazon and assuming it comes with the cable, connect it to the optical-out on the TV? And then I can plug headphones in and the TV audio should still work. Am I close?
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 22:46
|
|
|
Wilkins Micawber posted:Oh wow, sweet I would get a FiiO T03 Taishan for $5 more, just because I know it and can vouch for it. Also regardless of which TOSlink DAC you get, you might want to run that DAC thru a headphone amp of some sort for best results, I see the little headphone image over the 3.5mm jack but I also see no volume control, meaning that it probably just outputs a line level signal and is probably meant more for connecting a separate amp/receiver or self-powered output device like a Bluetooth speaker and controlling the output volume there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 22:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 00:47 |
|
|
This guy here? I even have an old battery powered headphone amp (somewhere) so, hell yeah!  bet I could even use an in-line remote thingy for volume, if I didn't want to use the headphone amp
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2022 23:07
|
|