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Jazzzzz posted:I'm guessing the red threadlocker the Italian factories use isn't the same as what we would refer to as red loctite, e.g. it needs heat to remove. drat near every screw on the Multi had red threadlocker on it and I didn't have to take a soldering iron to them to break them loose. This hasn't been my experience working with the (very overpriced) Red Loctite over the years. Sometimes you'll have to torch a bolt, sure. But not on the regular.
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Aug 17, 2022 21:22
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If it's like 10mm shaft, violence will do it. If it's like 6mm the bolt will break off. If it's a Harley compensator nut I'm getting the torch out.
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Aug 17, 2022 22:10
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Slavvy posted:If it's a Harley compensator nut I'm getting the torch out. I'd like to torch the nuts of a lot of Harley compensators tbqh
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Aug 17, 2022 22:23
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Phy posted:I'd like to torch the nuts of a lot of Harley compensators tbqh I thought the Harley was the compensator.
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Aug 17, 2022 23:19
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I was thinking as in "one who uses a Harley to compensate", which would make the hawg the compensation
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Aug 18, 2022 01:11
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 Finished buttoning up everything on the CR at 11:00 the night before we left, then drove 3+ hours to the middle of nowhere for 5 days and realized I never adjusted the clutch cable from replacing the broken OEM lever perch. Lever adjuster was all the way out and was still engaging with the lever in, so went to the in-line adjuster and *snap* I present to you the patented zip tie cable adjuster and pre-installed trail ready backups
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Aug 18, 2022 16:42
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I finally got around to sticking a neater number plate hanger on the Fireblade. Original. Looks so stupid to me now  All the plastics had to come off to get at the 4 bolts holding it on:  Much better. I'm going to need to do some modification because the light doesn't actually illuminate the plate at all.  I got a double Optimate charger to keep both bikes topped up, and a paddock stand and cover for the Scrambler  All 3 vehicles plugged in  
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Aug 21, 2022 17:33
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nonononononono please don't.  Sigh. At first i thought it was just some overspray from vaseline that i used to keep some exposed electrics from corroding too badly, but nope. Oil. I don't have the heart to scrap my old FZR, though this is it's second 'saved from the scrap heap' already. But the for seals are going and the scratches in the piston/rod make me think that even if i get them replaced, it won't be long before the new ones start leaking again. The scratches are every bit as bad as they look in the picture. What's your thoughts on how many km new seals could last? If it's another 40.000km i'm fine with it. That'll easily be 8 years considering i don't ride the FZR a whole lot. If it's more like 10.000, i'm gonna shed a tear cause i don't think i want to invest even more into getting a whole new fork for it. I have no idea if the seals have been replaced by the PO. I do know the scratches were already there when i bought it - but i didn't care much. I'm at a watershed moment because i was right at the moment that i'd buy new tires and start ordering the missing plastics. I love it, but for me this is essentially a bike to have fun with until i find a 400cc bike with dual round headlights. But... Ugh. Those small sportsbikes are extremely rare here, and since C19 also not exactly priced in such a way that i'd just buy one for the occasional joy ride. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Aug 23, 2022 |
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Aug 23, 2022 18:06
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Grab an ESD bag or something equally thin and clean out the seals. After that if its still leaking spin the stanchions in the triples some degrees between 0 and 90. fzr forks are super simple to break down and do new bushings/seals on. You can make the 'tool' from a piece of pvc plumbing pipe. I put a few sets of seals over a few years (shitloads of kms as it was a daily) on my fzr4 before moving to the inverted gsxr front end.
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Aug 23, 2022 18:36
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You can take the ridges down with some wet 2000 grit, that can help prolong them too. Tbh most bikes I've owned haven't gotten close to 40k on the fork seals, if you ride at all fast it's just another consumable.
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Aug 23, 2022 18:42
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I'm a pretty gentle rider, courtesy of traffic cops and cyclists on every twisty road. But not a ride goes by without encountering a bunch of speed humps. It's good to know the ridges can be polished out. That definitely makes it not a death sentence anymore. It seems like i need this kind of stand: https://www.motea.com/nl/stuurkop-stand-motorfiets-constands-classic-5-pin-stuurkop-montage-standaard-zwart-193662-0 Is there such a thing as bad and good stands like that, or are they all just fine?
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Aug 23, 2022 19:13
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I've had decent luck with those in years past. It may rub on the bodywork of the fzr. Least it did on mine but the 400 bodywork is different iirc. The fzr is also set up in such a way that you can  it with a pair of jackstands on the engine cradle with the fairings removed.
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Aug 23, 2022 19:16
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It currently doesn't have much bodywork. That's the last thing i am gonna put on it after all mechanical stuff is sorted. Which it actually was until i found this problem. I'm not opposed to doing the work myself, but i'm struggling with space to put stuff that doesn't fit a tool case. I'll have to have a good think if i wanna commit to getting the stand, or have it done at the garage where i'm gonna get the tires done anyway. I'm sure i can rig something up with wood and tie down straps to keep it in the air and upright but i don't feel like setting up the camera and editing the footage when it goes wrong.
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Aug 23, 2022 19:45
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Unmounted the rear wheel and put it aside while I put the shaft and spacers and stuff back on the bike. I then lifted the wheel by the sprocket and promptly dropped it on my foot when the sprocket assembly slipped out of the cush drive because the entire existence of a cush drive had departed my brain.
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Aug 24, 2022 20:03
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Slavvy posted:You can take the ridges down with some wet 2000 grit, that can help prolong them too. This is the key. I've done this on my dirtbike forks with success. As long as they're not too deep you should be fine. I went 2000-3000-4000. Just make sure you polish it as much as you can. Between that and new seals, no more leaks.
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Aug 24, 2022 20:56
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The old lovely plastic number plate holder was in the way of the number plate light on my new tail tidy, so I got a new very slim metal one. Ninety loving bucks! I guess the interchangeable plates are a bit of a Swiss specific thing. Anyway it's on the bike. 
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Aug 24, 2022 21:16
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Verman posted:This is the key. I've done this on my dirtbike forks with success. As long as they're not too deep you should be fine. I went 2000-3000-4000. Just make sure you polish it as much as you can. Between that and new seals, no more leaks. Yeah. If you reduce the diameter just a hair or make them out of round very slightly, it's not going to matter cause it's a spring loaded seal that takes up the slack and you aren't riding a GP bike. Scratches and ridges and bumps are what destroys the seals.
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Aug 24, 2022 22:05
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Did all 3 rear wheel bearings today on the 919. One was crunchy so I did the set. For some reason I thought it would be a whole ordeal, but I had all 3 done in an hour. Stuck em in the freezer for an hour and hit the hub with a heat gun and they basically fell into place. Found water pooled on top of one of the bearings under the seal, and I’ve never ridden it in rain and haven’t washed it in at least a month, so safe to say the seal wasn’t sealing anymore. Will do the front when I pull the forks this weekend.
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Aug 26, 2022 02:53
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You can....................wash.............................a motorcycle?
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Aug 26, 2022 13:50
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I’ve never heard of such a thing.
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Aug 26, 2022 15:53
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2006 Shiny Chromeboy, 2300 miles, never seen rain. Sees the pressure washer every weekend though.
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Aug 26, 2022 16:53
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It's illegal to wash your car in your drive / on the street where I live. I use the brush at the washing station but have to use the jet to rinse it off.
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Aug 26, 2022 17:04
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Lol california
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Aug 26, 2022 20:14
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I just gently wipe down the Monkey with a microfiber cloth and some very light soap solution every couple of days. The dirt bikes get lovingly pressure washed with saltwater at the dunes/beach
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Aug 26, 2022 21:13
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Front bearings done, took less time than the rears. Pulled the forks, waiting on a long hex driver for the lower bolts which should be here tomorrow then I'll start proper disassembly. I'll probably polish the header pipes while I have the extra clearance to work with the forks removed, it's looking pretty sad. 
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Aug 26, 2022 22:05
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I adjusted the position of the brake pedal since it's been uncomfortably high up. I should have done this immediately when I bought the bike a year ago. Took all of three minutes including fetching and putting away the tools.
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Aug 27, 2022 17:07
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Working on the gt550 this weekend. Main goal is going over the frame and exhaust and address what I can find of rust, hit it with rust converter and some hammerite or black heat resistant afterwards. Misc rust here and there.    Fun times with first time wrenching on a bike.  To actually get the rear axle out you have to drop the rear dampers from their mounts. But that turned out to be mad easy, 4 easily accessible nuts.  Everything looked fine, brake pads, brake surface and the near unobtainable rubber bits in the drive cushion.  Splines was also fine in both drive and wheel. 
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Aug 27, 2022 17:25
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Did some shopping 
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Aug 27, 2022 18:16
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Invalido posted:I adjusted the position of the brake pedal since it's been uncomfortably high up. I should have done this immediately when I bought the bike a year ago. Took all of three minutes including fetching and putting away the tools. Absolutely,everyone should take the time to adjust the ergonomics. I did it fairly early on for both levers and pedals and it is such an easy way to very noticably improve your ride.
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Aug 27, 2022 21:43
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Finished up my fork service. New oil, seals, guide bushings, sliders and orings. The sliders looked okay but the guide bushings were pretty worn. Old oil was basically black per usual. Saw a tip somewhere for probably the simplest oil level tool yet, just a spray nozzle with a zip tie at the right height. Worked great. Just need to aim into the catch pan when spraying out the excess. Took it for a quick scoot and I could feel the difference as soon as I rolled over the edge of my driveway. Front end feels much more planted and composed. It just felt very tired before and if it had ever been serviced in its 40k life, it's been a looong time.   
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Aug 28, 2022 22:47
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Lol this is so stupid I wanted to fault it somehow but honestly, well done, this is a great idea and I feel like a fool for wasting money on a syringe thingy.
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Aug 28, 2022 23:08
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What happens if you have too much oil in your fork? You effectively bottom-out mid-stroke and crash?
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Aug 29, 2022 03:15
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Toe Rag posted:What happens if you have too much oil in your fork? You effectively bottom-out mid-stroke and crash? How much is too much? I've seen a guy who just filled them to the brim and it led to having no travel at all.
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Aug 29, 2022 05:58
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This is genius. I have the Motion Pro tool and it's crap, the syringe part is plastic and the seal doesn't hold the oil back. I think it worked once.
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Aug 29, 2022 14:24
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Slavvy posted:Lol this is so stupid Exactly what I was saying to myself as I was squiring fork oil 4-5 feet into my catch pan haha. But you can't argue with free and functional!
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Aug 29, 2022 14:46
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Slavvy posted:How much is too much? I've seen a guy who just filled them to the brim and it led to having no travel at all. If the fork has 100mm of travel then I assume you need at least a 100mm air gap, but probably a little bit more. While I’m at it, how does the air gap affect the fork? Does reducing the air gap effectively increase the compression damping towards the bottom of the stroke because now the air has to compress more?
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Aug 29, 2022 16:14
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I replaced my air filter this weekend, under 10 minute job, felt immediately accomplished for the day. Went out for a long ride after, now i'm curious if it'll help the gas mileage a tad. The old filter wasn't too dirty.
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Aug 29, 2022 16:21
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Toe Rag posted:If the fork has 100mm of travel then I assume you need at least a 100mm air gap, but probably a little bit more. While I’m at it, how does the air gap affect the fork? Does reducing the air gap effectively increase the compression damping towards the bottom of the stroke because now the air has to compress more? It will work as a progressive rate air spring. There are products out there designed for this very thing. I ran a set of subtanks on the drz forks to adjust for the differing conditions between dualsport/dirtbike and supermoto. They come with an orifice that allows for tuning the rate of bleed.
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Aug 29, 2022 16:38
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Toe Rag posted:If the fork has 100mm of travel then I assume you need at least a 100mm air gap, but probably a little bit more. While I’m at it, how does the air gap affect the fork? Does reducing the air gap effectively increase the compression damping towards the bottom of the stroke because now the air has to compress more? It's more like a spring than anything that affects the damping. Smaller air gap = harsher initial travel. cursedshitbox posted:It will work as a progressive rate air spring. There are products out there designed for this very thing. I ran a set of subtanks on the drz forks to adjust for the differing conditions between dualsport/dirtbike and supermoto. They come with an orifice that allows for tuning the rate of bleed. This is really interesting, got a pic?
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Aug 29, 2022 20:20
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Slavvy posted:It's more like a spring than anything that affects the damping. Smaller air gap = harsher initial travel. Image is a link to an album of what's in the log. 
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Aug 29, 2022 20:43
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