|
X post Making a thing since I have spare bits. Maybe an objective marker?  
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2022 21:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 07:50 |
|
|
Cthulu Carl posted:There's a few Patreons that have good stuff for a decent price to build up that digital backlog, but if you want fantasy stiff, I'm gonna suggest Broken Anvil - for $9 a month they release a ton of minis, I've never had an issue with printing them and the supports come off the best of any of the studios I get STLs from. They also just released some freebies including a couple from their current Grimdark Wizard of Oz bundle Oh, great, those look good! What really got me interested in the 3D printing are these neat little hexagon tiles that are like the old Mighty Empires tiles they did 15 years ago. The set is called "Hexton Hills" and it looks really awesome! https://www.myminifactory.com/it/users/Graven%20Guild
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2022 21:49
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:X post That could be a sweet objective. Maybe give him a little briefcase and make it a dynamic objective? You have to perform an action for a round to get the briefcase, and you only score points for the briefcase if one of your units brings it back to your deployment zone by the end of the game or something like that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2022 22:59
|
|
|
working on some good boys
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2022 23:42
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:Just swell, and perfect. How was the blue accomplished? It's just contrast paint over metallics - a dry brush of Vallejo Magnesium with a second pass of Vallejo Aluminum on only the upper surfaces, then a coat of Akhelian Green with Baharroth Blue edge highlights.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 00:19
|
|
|
I am shopping for 3d print files now and buying too many in anticipation of my printer arriving. I was wholly unprepared for the sheer amount of stuff available.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 00:33
|
|
|
IncredibleIgloo posted:I am shopping for 3d print files now and buying too many in anticipation of my printer arriving. I was wholly unprepared for the sheer amount of stuff available. If there's one bad thing about 3D printing, it's that you almost have the "paradox of choice" thing going on, because there's just an insane amount of stuff out there to get (some even for free) and print. Also, congrats on your first 3D printer. I haven't used the Saturn 2, but I have an Elegoo Saturn and I've been super happy with it thus far.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:20
|
|
|
I was so excited to get a 3D printer but then I was so frustrated at how much effort it was to print stuff on my anycubic 4k mono. Just, every loving print took hours of combined effort and failed 80% of the time for one reason or another. and honestly I have too massive of a backlog right now, I have no business printing more. Maybe I'd have better luck selling it to get a PLA printer instead and printing terrain instead of trying to print minis, and just pay shmucks on etsy to print that poo poo for me, and have them deal with fiddling with the settings and all that crap.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:22
|
|
|
     I’ve been at a cabin all week and doing almost nothing but painting.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:29
|
|
|
That's the one thing holding me back from 3D printing. They've got the quality issue solved with resin printing, but they're still in the dark ages with usability on just about every machine out there. Every machine out there is reviewed as the best thing ever, or the worst. Some people get 0 failed prints, others get nothing but. And then even people with no issues for months will suddenly start seeing issues show up one day, and they disappear again months later. Even the experts in hobby printing will have issues that they have no idea what's causing them. Even general use is bizarre, in that you have to calibrate every machine out of the box, and every brand has a different way of doing it, and you're probably going to have to recalibrate fairly often. These things should be pre-calibrated out of the box, and rarely need calibration, and if they do they should self-calibrate in seconds. The companies have been so thirsty at chasing the resolution of the prints, that they've really neglected the overall user experience with the various machines.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:36
|
|
|
I really envy people who are like "wdym i have no issues it just works" after I spent hours of time researching only to do a 3 hour print and half it fail halfway through then I spend hours double checking what I was doing and it fails with a different reason then I print something with stronger supports and instead the whole thing comes out hard after washing and there's no way to cut the supports without cracking through the whole set of models then I find out the FEP is punctured then I change resin and the fep then I try dialing in the settings and it looks good then I try printing, and it prints half the model like I can't be this stupid, it can't just be me
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:40
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:I was so excited to get a 3D printer but then I was so frustrated at how much effort it was to print stuff on my anycubic 4k mono. Just, every loving print took hours of combined effort and failed 80% of the time for one reason or another. Given my experiences and research in the last year or so, I can honestly say that lift speed is the #1 culprit when it comes to print failures. I saw a few videos where people talked about slowing their lift speeds down from the typical 80-100mm/s (IIRC) down to around 40-60 mm/s, and they had waaaay fewer failures as a result. I figured I'd give it a try, and now I'm to the point where 9 times out of 10 I'll have no problems with even pre-supported models from a maker (as opposed to when I used to have to go in and add additional supports, or just redo them all from scratch), which depending on the maker can range from "very good" to "they just hit auto-support and called it a day". It does mean prints will take a lot longer to do, but I'll take a good print that took six hours to complete over a failed print that took three. There are other factors to be sure, but if you're really trying to fix your printer's problems, try lowering the lift speed and see if that helps.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:43
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:There are other factors to be sure, but if you're really trying to fix your printer's problems, try lowering the lift speed and see if that helps. I already tried that, also 90% of what I want to print is not pre-supported so that's another avenue to understand, and maybe I'm just not making the supports good enough, but last time i went all-in on thick supports it may as well have come in as a brick.  These were my settings the last time I did a test print
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 01:47
|
|
|
I already have a hobby where I paint toy soldiers, I don't need another, equally involved hobby.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 03:33
|
|
|
DAD LOST MY IPOD posted:
Looking good! Turbo dork metallics?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 03:38
|
|
|
I go back and forth between dozens of flawless prints on my reliable ol’ Mars 2 and getting so frustrated with the stupid thing I don’t touch it for months.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 03:39
|
|
|
GreenBuckanneer posted:I already tried that, also 90% of what I want to print is not pre-supported so that's another avenue to understand, and maybe I'm just not making the supports good enough, but last time i went all-in on thick supports it may as well have come in as a brick. Bump the exposure times up: on the burn-in layers bump it up to around 30-40 seconds, and on the regular layers bump it up to 2 seconds from 1.6. I recommend this because if your exposure times are too low, either they won't stick to the build plate at the first few layers (burn-in layers); or else the points where the model connect to the supports will be too weak, and the models will end up ripping off them and sticking to the FEP sheet (regular layers). E: also your retract speed for the regular layers looks like it's 12000, which seems a wee bit high to me  I'd drop it to 150, same as your burn-in layers retract speed, and see if that helps.Also I believe you said you're using an Anycubic printer? In my experience, slicing with Lychee is problematic because Anycubic has their own proprietary slicer. These days I just do supports with Lychee and then export the supported model as an STL and slice it in the Anycubic slicer. I'm sure there are people who have no problems slicing in Lychee for an Anycubic printer, I'm just not one of them. Yeast posted:I already have a hobby where I paint toy soldiers, I don't need another, equally involved hobby. Don't get me wrong, I totally understand where you're coming from and it's certainly a valid point of view. However, with that being said, it's only really "involved" when you initially get started with it. Once you've learned how your resin printer works and you find a resin that works well with it, it's literally "set it and forget it" barring something like a hardware failure. Most makers that sell good stuff have pre-supported models so you don't even have to futz around with supports (though it doesn't hurt to learn how to do them). Once you have that down, you can literally print and paint whatever you please. These last few days alone I've been printing out some cowboys for an Old West skirmish game, and some stuff for the OnePageRules Grimdark Future: Firefight skirmish game (mainly proxies for Orks, Nids, and some IG proxy troops). It really does open up an entire new world of possibilities. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Aug 20, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 03:48
|
|
|
My slicer updated and the new settings added a 1cm no-print-zone border around build plate's edge. It took me a month to figure out why my plate was functionally smaller - because that setting is something I'd never, ever touch for any reason at all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 04:51
|
|
|
Tinkering with color schemes for guardsmen and I think I found one I like: Pretty much all contrast then a few highlights here and there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 05:32
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:That's the one thing holding me back from 3D printing. They've got the quality issue solved with resin printing, but they're still in the dark ages with usability on just about every machine out there. Every machine out there is reviewed as the best thing ever, or the worst. Some people get 0 failed prints, others get nothing but. And then even people with no issues for months will suddenly start seeing issues show up one day, and they disappear again months later. Even the experts in hobby printing will have issues that they have no idea what's causing them. This is what was stopping me buy a printer. But the thing that convinced me not to buy was that I was searching for dryad models for a skirmish game. Don’t google dryad mini stls. It’s creeps all the way down.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 07:01
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:
Yeah, you're right - I'm def being a bit hyperbolic. It's kinda the same when I tell people to get an airbrush. There's a lot involved, but it's not so bad once you understand the basics
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 07:05
|
|
|
 Almost done, just need to prime, paint, then apply gore effects. I'm happy with the 30 minutes of total effort.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 08:51
|
|
|
All I've got done this week is varnishing some stuff I painted last weekend, then a tiny amount of weathering (because the dirty down rust effect works better after the varnish). Hopefully get a bit more done this week coming. Both Malifaux. KillJoy, an undead Fae. Was planning on adding some Blood For the Blood God to the cleaver and/or his guts, but I'm kind of happy with it as it is. Skin is based with GW pallid wych flesh, and I have to say as much as I love the colour for super pale skin I feel like I have to fight that loving paint every single time to try and get it thinned to a usable consistency, more than probably any other paint I own.  A Medical Automaton. Fun little palate cleanser of a figure. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 12:53
|
|
|
Stuck on a ship for months, been working on some of the infantry squads in my backlog. Just hanging out, thinking about war stuff.   
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 16:52
|
|
|
Just when I figured out how to not hate doing yellow my loving fleshy pink starts acting up. If I so much as think about water the loving paint transforms into a wash and floods the entire model, but if I don't it dries on the brush before I finish painting an elf's ear. And even if I get it fresh from the pot it'll just reactivate the previous layer and flood the entire model again. This sucks rear end and poo poo!
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:14
|
|
|
Siivola posted:Just when I figured out how to not hate doing yellow my loving fleshy pink starts acting up. If I so much as think about water the loving paint transforms into a wash and floods the entire model, but if I don't it dries on the brush before I finish painting an elf's ear. And even if I get it fresh from the pot it'll just reactivate the previous layer and flood the entire model again. This sucks rear end and poo poo! do you use a towel or sponge to wick excess moisture?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:16
|
|
|
Yes! It doesn't pick any up from this poo poo! I don't understand why!
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:18
|
|
|
Adding medium at this point could possibly fix the wateryness? sounds like it couldnt get worse either way. edit: do people use distilled water for painting? should i be using a different cup for my cleaning water? punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Aug 20, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:19
|
|
|
what size brush are you using, if it’s drying too quickly in the brush maybe yours is too small?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:21
|
|
|
It's a Pegasus size 2, but it works fine for all my other paints, which I can incidentally also thin to whatever thickness I feel like. This is the only paint in my collection giving me guff, but it's also my only flesh tone at the moment, which makes this very annoying. I dunno, maybe the jar's just gone bad. It's a P3 Midlund Flesh from 2010 or something. I'll try stirring it vigorously tomorrow, maybe that'll do it. If not, I guess I'll go buy some other flesh tone from the LGS. Siivola fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Aug 20, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:31
|
|
|
punishedkissinger posted:Adding medium at this point could possibly fix the wateryness? sounds like it couldnt get worse either way. I'm not going to say that nobody does that, because I'm sure there are some strange people who do, but... No. As a general rule I think most people just use regular tap water for most painting related activities. Just change your cleaning water occasionally (like if its almost black and you now want to thin white paint, or after using metallics), but realistically it'd have to be really dirty water to make much difference. I did try using distilled water in my wet palette once because someone said it might help prevent mould, but it then went mouldy incredibly fast so I never bothered again. If I want to get fancy I have a dropper bottle of diluted matt medium and another of flow aid to thin with, but most of the time its tap water. I mean, having a seperate jar for thinning water and cleaning water wouldnt do any harm, but I give it 3 minutes before you clean your brush in the thinning water for the second time and just give up on the idea.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:35
|
|
|
I have three water pots on my table. A very large one that is general wash and two ice cream containers. The ice cream ones are for metals, and the other one which stays very clean is for the second stage brush rinse and for adding to paint.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:43
|
|
|
I should probably split up my water pots and metal water pots
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:44
|
|
|
I'm working with quite restricted space, so I have a doritos salsa jar for general purpose painting water. Holds a decent amount of water, has a wide mouth and low centre of gravity. Insert joke about your mother here. I just empty it at the end of a session or when its really dirty and I'm switching from doing a lot of (for example) blues to yellow, or immediately after rinsing a brush clean of PVA, metallic paint or texture paste. Seems to work out okay!
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 18:50
|
|
|
As was previously mentioned, I have two empty Talenti gelato containers that I put my paint water in: one for metallic paints and one for non-metallic paints. So far I've managed not to get the two mixed up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 19:00
|
|
|
I'm glad my Sable and synthetic are different colors for identifying at a glance, but I've probably contaminated them anyway due to the water
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 19:25
|
|
|
punishedkissinger posted:Adding medium at this point could possibly fix the wateryness? sounds like it couldnt get worse either way. Generally speaking these paints are made to be thinned with tap water. The relevant medium is good as well. Distilled water isn't going to get you any advantage. E: unless your tap water is absolutely hosed up of course
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 19:26
|
|
|
where do people source seafoam and other groundcover?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2022 23:50
|
|
|
punishedkissinger posted:where do people source seafoam and other groundcover? Where in the world are you located, because a UK website recommendation isnt going to be a lot of use if you are in peru! I know geekgamingscenics does seafoam (and other assorted basing materials) but I've never used it because its kind of expensive (and I've mainly seen it used for making realistic trees which isnt something I've felt the need to do). They do have international distributors on their website. Personally I wouldnt use it for groundcover unless its super common and cheap where you live (which I suspect its not or you wouldnt be asking where to get it). If its just for a base reindeer moss can probably be made to do a similar (though clumsier) job while being much much cheaper. I've got a big bag of that from a craft store for about a pound. Other groundcover; flocks, static grasses, tufts, clump foliage and the like I tend to either pick up on ebay or from a flgs/model train store (the train guys have this poo poo nailed down tbh). Sand I got from a builders merchant, bark chips from a pet store (it would have been cheaper from a garden centre but I've nowhere to store a massive loving sack of them, so I paid about the same for a much smaller bag from the pet shop which will probably still do me literally years). Sticks and stones I pick up occasionally from just general outdoors. Oh, and I just bought a bunch of birch seeds off amazon to be fallen leaves. Used teabags can be dried out to make general ground foliage, as can general mixed herbs.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2022 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 07:50 |
|
|
Wait. Are we talking actual seafoam, or some chemical for imitating seafoam on dioramas?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2022 01:37
|
|