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slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

Deviant posted:

Has anyone in thread considered or swapped a mk3s to a 0.6mm nozzle? I'm wondering if arachne slicing would give me good detail with more speed.

Even without arachne it's fine and I never went back, I put a 0.6mm tungsten carbide nozzle on and haven't changed it since. I'd like to see if I could get more flow from a 0.5mm high flow tungsten carbide but they're always sold out (bozzle).

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Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"

mattfl posted:

Finally finished this badass Deadpool helmet

https://imgur.com/gallery/DNPsd5z

Completely 3d printed, no painting required. The texture is built into the design which is pretty awesome.

That's really rad. I've been considering 3d printing cosplay stuff and printing the texture like that is expanding what I thought was possible.

Does it have that ABS smell still?

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Serenade posted:

That's really rad. I've been considering 3d printing cosplay stuff and printing the texture like that is expanding what I thought was possible.

Does it have that ABS smell still?

Just smells like regular plastic to me. The filament I used, Atomic, doesn’t have that bad of a smell to begin with.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Four year anniversary patreon stickers from foosel for Octoprint included this shiny one. My phone camera had trouble focusing when I moved a flashlight around.
https://i.imgur.com/9ovhYTy.mp4

mewse
May 2, 2006

Rexxed posted:

Four year anniversary patreon stickers from foosel for Octoprint included this shiny one. My phone camera had trouble focusing when I moved a flashlight around.
https://i.imgur.com/9ovhYTy.mp4

Nice!

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004



This is old PLA but I saw this on another print recently. Is this under extrusion, or over retraction or what. Specifically the wonky poo poo on the narrow parts in the upper half. I already trimmed off all the ugliest stringy poo poo

Layer height was 0.28 0.16 I think

Was previously using a 0.4, no issues, switched to 1.0 nozzle when I switched to the arachnid engine update on prusa. Besides setting the nozzle size bigger do I need to change anything else

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
That's underextrusion. Or at least.. that's what it looks like. Are you running .16 layer height with a 1mm nozzle?

I'm starting to get angry at Thomas over his ".4 is dead!"

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



.4 is dead. .4 remains dead. And we have killed it. How shall we comfort ourselves, the murderers of all murderers? What was holiest and mightiest of all that the world has yet owned has bled to death under our hotends: who will wipe this resin off us? What water is there for us to clean ourselves? What .stls of atonement, what sacred benchies shall we have to invent? Is not the greatness of this deed too great for us? Must we ourselves not become nozzles simply to appear worthy of it?

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Nerobro posted:

That's underextrusion. Or at least.. that's what it looks like. Are you running .16 layer height with a 1mm nozzle?

I'm starting to get angry at Thomas over his ".4 is dead!"

If it makes you feel better, I am loving around a .2 nozzle for printing minis.

Speaking of which, isn’t there some kind of tabletop war gaming system that is meant to be played with printed minis? I swear I remember reading something about on several months ago.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Vaporware posted:

If you reprint elsewhere on the buildplate does it happen in the same spot? That will isolate model vs printer.

Do the bumps line up with any infill geometry?

No dice, it's 100% where the lines of the curve start/stop. Happens at any spot on the plate and funny enough no evidence of it on the first layer. It's like it's pushing out too much at the stop point, almost like a z seam, but I don't get why it only does this on inside curves and not outside. It doesn't correlate with the infill as far as I can tell, especially since it is visible starting on layer 2 of a 3 shell thickness print, and on layer 3 it's basically "full size" for the bump.

NewFatMike posted:

The rule of thumb for maximum layer height is 3/4 your nozzle diameter - see if it persists at 0.3 or 0.25mm layer heights.

.2mm is better, but still visible. If I do .2mm I can certainly sand it flush pretty easily, but now I'm on a mission. Gonna go prove that perfection is the enemy of good enough.

Gonna try without Arachne now to see if that improves it all all.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Welp, so with a 1.0 nozzle my layer height could be 0.66 no problem? Wondering if trying to print 0.16 was just way outside the sanity error bars that I ended up with wild under extrusion problems due to algorithmic hell

Edit: now prusaslicer is freaking out about extrusion widths which are locked

Edit 2: brb, ordering a volcano and 1.50 nozzle

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Aug 20, 2022

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Marsupial Ape posted:

If it makes you feel better, I am loving around a .2 nozzle for printing minis.

Speaking of which, isn’t there some kind of tabletop war gaming system that is meant to be played with printed minis? I swear I remember reading something about on several months ago.

You're a brave man. I mean, I have printed at .05mm layer height with fair regularity, but getting that first layer down is.. *ahem* Challenging. It doesn't come out clean, but once de-haired the slopes have a visable texture, but you can't feel the ridges, even on like a 10deg slope.

I'll come back to the nozzle diameter in a second.

Hadlock posted:

Welp, so with a 1.0 nozzle my layer height could be 0.66 no problem? Wondering if trying to print 0.16 was just way outside the sanity error bars that I ended up with wild under extrusion problems due to algorithmic hell

Edit: now prusaslicer is freaking out about extrusion widths which are locked

Edit 2: brb, ordering a volcano and 1.50 nozzle

I have always used 80%. So on a 1.0 nozzle, 0.8mm layer height is totally kosher. My fast layers for .4 is .32mm.

So back to the 0.4mm thing, and progressive flows. I think part of printing cleanly, is laying a thick enough layer of plastic, that it is "a layer". As opposed to a smear. If you're laying a smear, it's nearly impossible to avoid stringing.

Filament that'll print super clean for me at .2 layer height, is just a stringy mess at .05 layer height.

That said, you have something clogging that nozzle. Or.. backpressure is to high for your extruder? When I had some "claimed to be PLA" stuff that was soaked with water, I had whole prints come out like that due to gas pressure in the hot end.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Prusa's KB says not to go under 1/4 the nozzle diameter in layer height, so I wouldn't do .16 at anything bigger than a .6 and even then that's pushing the limit.

I have a .6mm Nozzle X for the Prusa that should be showing up in a couple days. I wouldn't do that except they have profiles made for the mk3s+ with a .6 nozzle so it should be pretty well supported. I mostly do functional prints and the bigger the nozzle the wider the extrusion width can be and wider extrusions = stronger. I doubt it will be much faster than a .4 since the .4 can get pretty close to the volumetric max of the V6 but the larger nozzle should slightly increase volumetric max due to reduced friction and I'm not really losing anything for functional prints by doing .6. Prusa does say that .8 or above can cause some issues you need to adjust for so I didn't go up to .8 because of that.

Are there any off the shelf adapter plates to put a V6 style nozzle on an Ender? I'm going to wait until I have one reliable printer before I try to get an old one back up and running but I tried printing an adapter and shroud (HeroMe I think?) and the whole design was a pain in the rear end so I'd rather just spend $20-40 or whatever it would be for one that's premade to put my Dragon HF on.

E: Nevermind I just found a bunch of options by searching bracket rather than adapter.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Aug 20, 2022

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Bondematt posted:

Gonna try without Arachne now to see if that improves it all all.

It was Arachne, switching to classic in Prusaslicer fixed it. Kinda of a shame since Arachne has been fantastic so far.

Edit: I should have checked the slicer first...for whatever reason I thought Prusaslicer automatically tells you of updates.

Starting with the 2nd layer there's a ~.012mm line at each of the points where the lines meet with a small amount of extrusion, that's almost definitely it. Turns out it's been fixed already in Prusaslicer Alpha 3, I was running Alpha 2 still: "Arachne perimeter generator sometimes produced extremely short segments even when there was no need. These extrusions could have been incorrectly shown as deretractions and also could have caused extremely short and counter-productive wipe moves."

Time to grab RC1.

Double Edit: Yup, PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 RC1 does not create that extra tiny extrusion at each stop point. Well my printer got a cleaning, tuneup, and the newest version of Klipper at least!

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Aug 20, 2022

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



Anyone been using ASA for anything? I don't have any of it nor do I have a real use case as it seems PETG seems to cover all its bases. I'm mostly just curious.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Aug 20, 2022

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Prusa's KB says not to go under 1/4 the nozzle diameter in layer height, so I wouldn't do .16 at anything bigger than a .6 and even then that's pushing the limit.*snip*

Are there any off the shelf adapter plates to put a V6 style nozzle on an Ender? I'm going to wait until I have one reliable printer before I try to get an old one back up and running but I tried printing an adapter and shroud (HeroMe I think?) and the whole design was a pain in the rear end so I'd rather just spend $20-40 or whatever it would be for one that's premade to put my Dragon HF on.

Hmmpf. Sounds like my instinct of "hey, there's a minimum thickness" was right. There's not a lot of sources that I'll just.. uh.. take the word from. Prusa is one of them.

Why do you wanna run a V6 on an ender? (To be really silly, I want to put a MK8 on a voron..)

senrath
Nov 4, 2009

Look Professor, a destruct switch!


Bondematt posted:

Edit: I should have checked the slicer first...for whatever reason I thought Prusaslicer automatically tells you of updates.

It does, but only once they've cleared RC and been fully released.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Isometric Bacon posted:


Any recommendations on other resins? I was thinking something solid that'd show of the detail.

I’m a fan of Phrozen aqua 4k. Grey or ivory - the blue and green are crud.

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need

22 Eargesplitten posted:

.4 is dead. .4 remains dead. And we have killed it. How shall we comfort ourselves, the murderers of all murderers? What was holiest and mightiest of all that the world has yet owned has bled to death under our hotends: who will wipe this resin off us? What water is there for us to clean ourselves? What .stls of atonement, what sacred benchies shall we have to invent? Is not the greatness of this deed too great for us? Must we ourselves not become nozzles simply to appear worthy of it?

Quoting for appreciation.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Unperson_47 posted:

Anyone been using ASA for anything? I don't have any of it nor do I have a real use case as it seems PETG seems to cover all its bases. I'm mostly just curious.

So, it's pretty similar to ABS, but I haven't used much ABS so I can't really compare the two. Anyway, my observations:

- All the standard ABS stuff: high temperature resistance, good mechanical properties, acetone soluble
- Supposed to be UV resistant and better against weathering than ABS. The big selling point but I've never really put it to the test tbh
- No stringing, at all, ever
- Less glossy than other filaments. This has the effect of reducing the appearance of layer lines
- Filament is naturally an off-white color. You can print things white without the issues white pigment often causes
- Likes to be printed hot, I use 260 degrees
- Warping is really bad. If you don't have a heated enclosure, forget about it
- Emits a bit of a smell when printing. Pretty much a non-issue with an enclosure
- The ASA I bought from filaments.ca sticks alright to the PEI sheet but I wish it was better. ApolloX ASA, permanently bonds to PEI, ruining it

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
There's these maker types on Youtube, that use 3D printers, among other things, to realize their projects.

So anyway, what's with them and using cheap terrible/slow printers/settings?

Just now I watched that Tom Stanton guy complaining about having issues using LWPLA for some lightweight wings, because it leaves too much crap all over. The issue I have is that his Creality printer is seen on video pausing like almost half a second every retraction and detraction, and also doing slow travels.

I've seen other creators doing huge complicated projects with tons of printed parts, and whenever the B-roll showing the printer shows up, I start to gnashing teeth watching some printer go like 60mm/s max. with like 500mm/s² accels. For instance a guy called James Bruton, creating robot dogs, who end up being multiple kilograms of plastic, printing parts on two old Lulzbots going anti-lightspeed.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Not everyone cares about minmaxing their print times when it already works fine

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Maybe, maybe not. I'm not demanding them running one of those crazy lightweight carbon tube CoreXY setups running at 1000mm/s, but a lot of the times, it looks like self-flagelation if you're prototyping multi-kilogram contraptions. And in the case of LWPLA one, can't complain about the foaming agent oozing poo poo all over your print, if the printer essentially stalls at critical points in the process.

IDK, it just seems superweird. If 3D printing is a core part of your thing, you'd think the main tool involved would at least somewhat track current developments.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


I saw that video, it seems to me that foaming PLA is a huge gimmick when he could have just used a smaller nozzle

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Combat Pretzel posted:

There's these maker types on Youtube, that use 3D printers, among other things, to realize their projects.

So anyway, what's with them and using cheap terrible/slow printers/settings?

Just now I watched that Tom Stanton guy complaining about having issues using LWPLA for some lightweight wings, because it leaves too much crap all over. The issue I have is that his Creality printer is seen on video pausing like almost half a second every retraction and detraction, and also doing slow travels.

I've seen other creators doing huge complicated projects with tons of printed parts, and whenever the B-roll showing the printer shows up, I start to gnashing teeth watching some printer go like 60mm/s max. with like 500mm/s² accels. For instance a guy called James Bruton, creating robot dogs, who end up being multiple kilograms of plastic, printing parts on two old Lulzbots going anti-lightspeed.


Javid posted:

Not everyone cares about minmaxing their print times when it already works fine

I keep hearing that excuse, and it's just that. And it's a bad one. I keep talking about characterizing your printer. This is part of it. ESPECIALLY someone who's doing things on a schedule, like.. oh.. Tom Stanton.. he should do some looking at his profiles. Yes, his printing is ~terrible~ optimization wise.

So... Slicers, and printer defaults are often ULTRA conservative. Also, most of the online printing community is still stuck in.. 5, 8 year old techniques and "standards". Lots of people never explore beyond that.

James Burton prints with thick layer heights. So it looks slow, but he's right up there at the limits of the hot end.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
I wonder if that's a chicken and egg, since he's using slow machines and maximizing the extrusion rate to compensate

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
"Excuse" like literally anyone needs to justify how they configure a printer they paid for and you didn't. It squirts out the plastic objects in the desired shape in a period of time that is acceptable to the owner, which means it works as well as it needs to

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
I'm not a professional printer so I can get away with being lax, but I'm of the mindset that making a print 20% takes most things from "overnight" to... still overnight. Of course I will always want it to faster, instant gratification and all. But speed is not free.

What reward is there in spending the time to squeeze out an optimized time other than the satisfaction of the smaller number? Which is a fair thing to want in a hobby, but not everyone will.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Serenade posted:

I'm not a professional printer so I can get away with being lax, but I'm of the mindset that making a print 20% takes most things from "overnight" to... still overnight. Of course I will always want it to faster, instant gratification and all. But speed is not free.

What reward is there in spending the time to squeeze out an optimized time other than the satisfaction of the smaller number? Which is a fair thing to want in a hobby, but not everyone will.

My Voron can print a 485 gram part in 4 hours 33 minutes. Tuning pays off.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT
you don't need an excuse to use settings you know work to make parts even though they're not optimal.

you also don't need an excuse to spend more time optimizing your printer than actually using it.

both ways of using a 3d printer are okay, one is not better than the other, please stop.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
You guys are talking about content creators. Making anything even approaching professional quality YouTube videos is insanely time-consuming, so I'm willing to bet a ton of these people are just unwilling to change any known working settings because of the potential for delays. The dudes who specifically focus on 3d printing are in an entirely different boat because they can just turn their tuning failures into more content.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
My Fusion 360 appears to be expired when I fire it up. What CAD software is everyone using to model stuff for 3D printing? I've been using Cura to do the actual slicing and printing, and am happy to keep on with that. Im a mech E (by degree) and familiar with Fusion 360 and Solidworks...have also used Siemens NX. Looking for something free or on the order of under $50/yr.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Hadlock posted:



This is old PLA but I saw this on another print recently. Is this under extrusion, or over retraction or what. Specifically the wonky poo poo on the narrow parts in the upper half. I already trimmed off all the ugliest stringy poo poo

Layer height was 0.28 0.16 I think

Was previously using a 0.4, no issues, switched to 1.0 nozzle when I switched to the arachnid engine update on prusa. Besides setting the nozzle size bigger do I need to change anything else



Bone stock 0.4 nozzle settings, 0.24mm layer height on left

1.0 nozzle with mostly 0.4 nozzle settings on right, 0.28mm layer height

:toot:

Gonna stick with 0.4 nozzle until prusaslicer publishes larger nozzle preconfig settings for my printer type. Not worth loving around with

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Serenade posted:

I'm not a professional printer so I can get away with being lax, but I'm of the mindset that making a print 20% takes most things from "overnight" to... still overnight.

This can't be overstated. Unless something is printing like 80-90% faster I just don't care and will never notice. It's going to take "all day" no matter what because it's going to happen while I'm at work and if it finishes faster it....just sits there longer.

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010

CarForumPoster posted:

My Fusion 360 appears to be expired when I fire it up. What CAD software is everyone using to model stuff for 3D printing? I've been using Cura to do the actual slicing and printing, and am happy to keep on with that. Im a mech E (by degree) and familiar with Fusion 360 and Solidworks...have also used Siemens NX. Looking for something free or on the order of under $50/yr.

I use the free personal fusion360. You have to renew your free license every few years. They have put new limitations on it as time has gone by, but it's still free and my preferred solution. The limitations it has just don't bother me.
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

bird food bathtub posted:

This can't be overstated. Unless something is printing like 80-90% faster I just don't care and will never notice. It's going to take "all day" no matter what because it's going to happen while I'm at work and if it finishes faster it....just sits there longer.

80-90% faster is possible.

My buddy printing art pieces, we knocked 50% off his print time.

Sure it still "takes time" But there's a wild difference between needing to make sure your printer is ok for 197 hours, or 24 hours. (The example I'm using is printing a helmet..)

The people who are printing slow, and are often also the ones who are complaining or bragging, of print time. And also, are often the ones who have problems that relate to heat soak, or moisture issues, or worrying about UPS's. ~more time~ is ~bad printing~ if you can avoid it.

Edit: So when someone says "I have #k hours of print time in this" it makes me ask a whole lot of other questions about the thing that was designed, and printed.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Aug 21, 2022

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Serenade posted:

I'm not a professional printer so I can get away with being lax, but I'm of the mindset that making a print 20% takes most things from "overnight" to... still overnight. Of course I will always want it to faster, instant gratification and all. But speed is not free.

What reward is there in spending the time to squeeze out an optimized time other than the satisfaction of the smaller number? Which is a fair thing to want in a hobby, but not everyone will.

This could be the beginning of a conversation about internalized capitalism pervading even what should be leisure activities, but I’m sure as hell not going to start it.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

googling

"why you shouldn't turn your hobby into a career"

has an alarming number of real world stories/cautionary tales

vs

"find a job doing what you love and you'll never work a day in your life"

is mostly daydreaming by/for hourly workers

YouTube is a nightmare profession because if you take a week off the algorithm murders your career which is fine for years 1-2 when you're 24 and have unlimited energy/optimism, but nobody watches reruns on YouTube so there's no residuals after a month or two of your video going live

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



I'm also using the free Personal edition of Fusion360 but one weird thing is that you can't renew your license until it's expired. At least that's what I've read. It keeps yelling at me that it's about to expire but I've gone through the steps to renew the license three times until I found that out.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Aug 21, 2022

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Hadlock posted:

"why you shouldn't turn your hobby into a career"

vs

"find a job doing what you love and you'll never work a day in your life"

This is totally the wrong thread. But there's some real salient points here.

Turning a hobby into a career usually ends up in the destruction of both you, and your enjoyment of the hobby. "my buddy printing art pieces" is an example. Amusingly, he's decided the best thing he can do, on top of working 60 hours a week printing, is to pick up a "side job" that he can do at the same time.

He makes me cry.

Jobs are always jobs. Sometimes a thing you love can pay, but even then, it ~becomes a job~, and the job things follow. "Find a job you love" is a lie on nearly every level.

Amusingly, I had an interview yesterday. "I'm trying to find out what your passion is, to see if you match this company." I wasn't clever enough on the spot to respond to that properly. I stuck with the "I like to make things".

I'm into 3d printing, becuase I'm into tools. And i'm into making things. That's the perspective I come from.

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