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Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

Thanks for the responses. Not the most conclusive answers and certainly a number of things I didn't want to hear. I've been using 5w30 the whole time so that's no help there but it's not leaking oil so that maybe crosses it off the list.

It doesn't help that I didn't log any of my fill ups and there's a good chance that I hadn't checked and filled the oil since the start of June which means I actually went close to two months without checking. Since I replaced the alternator at the right at the end of June and the trip odometer reset, it's now reading just shy of 1000 miles but it's actually less since the dash it's not calibrated to the wheels and the speedometer runs fast. As a result, it looks like I may be burning more than 1qt per 1000 miles.

Also doesn't help that since I switched from fully remote work to hybrid work, I went from putting on maybe 100 miles a month to 100 miles per week so the car is seeing a lot more mileage than it used to. As a result, it's possible it's always burned this much oil but never manifested itself because I didn't put on enough mileage to notice.

I guess the takeaway is to keep a much closer eye on the oil levels and get around to doing a compression test to see how bad it is. My job has a service center for ambulances and emergency support vehicles so I'll see if I can get some of the work done there without breaking too many rules. If it is time for an engine rebuild or new engine, maybe it's time to swap it for an EZ36 though I have no idea what the prices for them and a Haltech ECU go for now what with supply chain shenanigans going on. Also I no longer have a spare car while the Forester is being worked on so that's another headache I'll need to figure out how to deal with.

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hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008

carticket posted:

Subaru used to consider up to 1qt/1000 mi to be okay. Not sure if they've changed that with the FA/FB engines, though.

That got them sued in the US. As part of that settlement its now 1/3 qt for 1200 miles. Looking at the post history I'm guessing that forrester is well out of warranty though :)

Apparently boxer engines always lose some oil due to physics reasons unless you put in some sort of fancy recovery system. Porsche does this because racing.

hobbesmaster fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Aug 4, 2022

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Edward IV posted:

Got a bit of a scare when I saw the Oil Pressure Warning light turn on briefly in the Forester XT. Pulled out the dipstick and found it bone dry. Filled it up and it turned out it needed about 2.5 qts of oil out of a manufacturer listed capacity of 4.2 qts.

Is it normal for it to burn that much oil in the 1.5 months since I last topped it off? Does temperature have a factor because it's been gently caress off hot (well gently caress off hot to me is 90+ with high humidity and brutal sunshine in Jersey) here? What about oil age because it is due for a time-based oil change? It's been 6 months since the last change as I don't drive enough to put 5000 miles in that time frame although I could be close since I started doing hybrid work but the trip odometer lost count when I took out the battery to replace the alternator.

In any case, it there anything I need to be alarmed about? It just really caught me off guard as I'm still getting a feel of when I should be checking the oil level so I've been doing it roughly monthly. However, shortly after the last oil change in February, the oil level stayed in the nominal range in the first few months so I got somewhat lax with how frequently I checked the oil. That's why I'm thinking it may be temperature and/or age but I do want to make sure it's not a sign of something more serious.

Forester XT's can take unexpected lunges in oil use mostly due to the turbo seals on the TD04 esp under load - what year model is yours? Not especially worrying I would suggest, it's more of a keep your eye on it.

Also what weight oil? Subaru likes to suggest oil thats honestly too thin and I'll use the heaviest oil allowed for in the service book or one weight heavier in really hot conditions.

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

Forester XT's can take unexpected lunges in oil use mostly due to the turbo seals on the TD04 esp under load - what year model is yours? Not especially worrying I would suggest, it's more of a keep your eye on it.

Also what weight oil? Subaru likes to suggest oil thats honestly too thin and I'll use the heaviest oil allowed for in the service book or one weight heavier in really hot conditions.

It's an '05 but it has an "STI" turbo according to the PO. That actually became a minor issue when the oil feed fitting leaked on my way to work and the technician from work who helped me replace it ended up buying a fitting for the stock turbo at first and was confused why it wouldn't fit so it took longer to get the appropriate fitting.

As for oil, I've been using 5w30 the whole time.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
IMO a big part of that 1qt/1000mi thing was "what no your ringlands definitely aren't cracked that's totally normal!"

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

My Subarus like to burn things. My '09 WRX was at about 1 qt/1000 mi when I got rid of it, though I never saw smoke indicative of such. My '01 RS was about 1 gal/cold start of coolant until I got the head replaced, and boy did that make a lot of fog. My '20 WRX thankfully hasn't yet started burning anything, but it is still young. The '06 WRX donor doesn't need to burn oil because I'm pretty sure it's bone dry after sitting for > 3 years without having run.

Rhesus Pieces
Jun 27, 2005

Weird, I just changed the oil on my 37K mi 2018 Impreza hatch after 5000 miles and it wasn’t missing a drop. I thought losing any oil was always indicative of a serious problem?

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Edward IV posted:

It's an '05 but it has an "STI" turbo according to the PO. That actually became a minor issue when the oil feed fitting leaked on my way to work and the technician from work who helped me replace it ended up buying a fitting for the stock turbo at first and was confused why it wouldn't fit so it took longer to get the appropriate fitting.

So possibly unknown condition turbo

Mmmm yeah kinda would be looking there first if it continues

quote:

As for oil, I've been using 5w30 the whole time.

Go 10w40 in hot weather. I've seen lack of oil use in all my Subarus using heavier oil, lighter oils onthe other hand.... not so good.

hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008

Rhesus Pieces posted:

Weird, I just changed the oil on my 37K mi 2018 Impreza hatch after 5000 miles and it wasn’t missing a drop. I thought losing any oil was always indicative of a serious problem?

Not in a horizontally opposed engine.

JawKnee
Mar 24, 2007





You'll take the ride to leave this town along that yellow line
Hello, I have another new noise that I need some help with diagnosing in my automatic '06 Impreza 2.5i wagon

About a month ago I pulled out drivers side front axle, and then put it back; I did this do deal with a previous clicking noise I was getting only when starting to accelerate/stopping accelerating, or when shifting from drive to reverse, or reverse to drive. That seems to have worked great - that noise is no longer there. For about 3 weeks, including a couple longer trips out camping the car has run quietly.

This last week a new noise has begun - a rhythmic clicking noise that is:

- Not audible if the windows are up (or if there is too much traffic noise)
- Will only become audible at a speed above 30km/h, and will increase in frequency as speed increases, up to 60km/h when it is occurring too quickly to differentiate clicks
- Stops when making a left turn
- Seems to be consistently there when going straight or making a right turn

What I've done:

- Lifted the car on jack stands to see if I could replicate the noise. The noise is not present while the car is lifted, no matter how much I accelerate
- Checked wheels for play in the bearings, no clunking, no play on front or back
- Removed wheels and checked axle boots for damage, none present
- Checked dust shields on front and back wheels. Back rotor has a bit more of a lip than front rotor, but not enough to interact with the shield unless it were flexing mightily while on the ground, shields themselves seem to be in fine shape

Not really too sure what else I can/should look at here. Not being able to replicate the noise makes me think it could be some stress that's being put on the outer or inner cv joint when it's on the road, or maybe something with the struts? Would appreciate any other recommendations for areas to look into

JawKnee fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Aug 8, 2022

Risky
May 18, 2003

Majere posted:

Sounds good. Yeah, I've got the budget brake upgrade, the Powerstop unpainted 4/2 pot STI calipers from rock auto. Had a friend paint them up real nice in hyper blue, and I made the decals. People still want like $2000 for busted old poo poo calipers with stripped threads, stuck bleeders, and failing paint because they have BREM-BRO on the sides.





Pretty sure it already has 740/750 DW injectors from when I bought it years ago. I don't think I would need any larger for a vf52. Might be interested in the fuel rails and lines if mine are scuzzy.

My tuner wants to get rid of the TGV's on the legacy and the new STI, is that really worth it?

What years are those from? Got a link to them?

I want to upgrade my stock brakes on my 2020 WRX but I'm wondering if the fronts will clear the factory 17" wheels or if I'll have to modify the dust shields for rotors.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I'm replacing the water pump on my SVX for (hopefully) the last time and I'm wanting to make sure I do it right. I got a metal gasket from the dealership to replace the paper one that came with the pump. From what I've read online and in the FSM you should only use as much blue RTV as you need to get the gasket to not fall off during installation. I used a bit when installing what turned out to be the incorrect pump, but lost the tube since then. I'm considering just putting some tape over the bolts to hold them in place, lining them up, then one at a time removing the tape to put those bolts in since having the bolts fall out and the gasket fall off has been the biggest problem and even with the permatex that gasket would fall off easily since I hadn't left it overnight to cure. Does that sound like a plan? It's weird to me thinking of sealant as a bad thing but if the manual doesn't say to use it I suppose I shouldn't.

Second, which I might have already done the damage since I did it before, I've got a compact impact wrench with the "tighten and then pause" setting, is it safe to use that to get the bolt in place and then torque with a wrench or would that already end up over-torquing it? I just checked the torque specs and it's 7-10 ftlb which I'd probably over-tighten by hand tbh so I'm going to pick up a tiny torque wrench from the hardware store since the only one I have is the 1/2" drive Harbor Freight one that starts at something like 20-30 ftlb. Related to that, would using a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter mess up the torque reading? I've only got 3/8" and 1/2" sockets, although it probably wouldn't be too pricey to pick up a 1/4" drive 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm since those are the only three sizes I'll be dealing with at low torque ratings.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Last time I RTV'd a water pump, I didn't use it until it was time to bolt it on, holding the gasket in line with some bolts.

You might just look at getting a 3/8" inch/pound torque wrench instead of buying a light duty ft/lb and just multiply by 12 to get your torque in in/lb.

I wouldn't use the pneumatic wrench. Just hand tighten and torque. 7-10 ft/lb is rather light.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I can't find a 3/8" in-lb locally, the lowest I could find is one that starts at 10lb which I don't trust not to actually be over. I'd just get a Wheeler Fat Wrench and use one of the adapters from my impact driver so I'd have it for using on my guns but they don't have any locally. The one with the 1/4" drive is 20-250 in/lb so that basically covers the range up to where my 1/2" drive will do it. I'm honestly bad about doing proper torque and on bigger bolts just measure in uggaduggas but I don't want to break tiny bolts.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Nothing wrong with getting a 1/4" drive for that light of torque. You'll almost certainly need it for anything related to interior work.

Using a short extension shouldn't mess up the torque either, or at least not enough to matter.

I didn't even think about a gunsmith torque wrench but that would probably work perfectly in a pinch.

JawKnee
Mar 24, 2007





You'll take the ride to leave this town along that yellow line

JawKnee posted:

Hello, I have another new noise that I need some help with diagnosing in my automatic '06 Impreza 2.5i wagon

About a month ago I pulled out drivers side front axle, and then put it back; I did this do deal with a previous clicking noise I was getting only when starting to accelerate/stopping accelerating, or when shifting from drive to reverse, or reverse to drive. That seems to have worked great - that noise is no longer there. For about 3 weeks, including a couple longer trips out camping the car has run quietly.

This last week a new noise has begun - a rhythmic clicking noise that is:

- Not audible if the windows are up (or if there is too much traffic noise)
- Will only become audible at a speed above 30km/h, and will increase in frequency as speed increases, up to 60km/h when it is occurring too quickly to differentiate clicks
- Stops when making a left turn
- Seems to be consistently there when going straight or making a right turn

What I've done:

- Lifted the car on jack stands to see if I could replicate the noise. The noise is not present while the car is lifted, no matter how much I accelerate
- Checked wheels for play in the bearings, no clunking, no play on front or back
- Removed wheels and checked axle boots for damage, none present
- Checked dust shields on front and back wheels. Back rotor has a bit more of a lip than front rotor, but not enough to interact with the shield unless it were flexing mightily while on the ground, shields themselves seem to be in fine shape

Not really too sure what else I can/should look at here. Not being able to replicate the noise makes me think it could be some stress that's being put on the outer or inner cv joint when it's on the road, or maybe something with the struts? Would appreciate any other recommendations for areas to look into

Well the noise disappeared yesterday and has not resurfaced today. No idea why. :iiam:

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Risky posted:

What years are those from? Got a link to them?

I want to upgrade my stock brakes on my 2020 WRX but I'm wondering if the fronts will clear the factory 17" wheels or if I'll have to modify the dust shields for rotors.

Fronts are 04 sti, powerstop L3698 & L3699. Need same year rotors as well.

Rears are 06 wrx, needs adapter brackets for same years legacy, and rotors.

No idea if these will fit 2020.

I'm sure the consensus would be for you to upgrade your pads and rotors (and tires) first though as the stock calipers arent "bad" or "weak" or some poo poo.

Majere fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Aug 11, 2022

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

JawKnee posted:

Well the noise disappeared yesterday and has not resurfaced today. No idea why. :iiam:

Rock stuck the in the treads?

JawKnee
Mar 24, 2007





You'll take the ride to leave this town along that yellow line

carticket posted:

Rock stuck the in the treads?

Maybe? I've had that happen before and the sound sticks around no matter the speed. I also did a once over on the driver's side tires and didn't find anything

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

Good news. I found the source of my excessive oil loss and it may not be from burning oil.

Bad news. I found the source of my excessive oil loss and I have no idea where it's coming from.

I found the Forester was indeed marking its territory but I haven't driven the car since Monday and didn't check on it until tonight since I'm schedule to go to the office tomorrow. Dip stick was reading just past the low mark despite reading full on Sunday although I've driven it about 110 miles on Sunday and Monday. I left a piece of cardboard beneath the engine to see how much it dripping overnight and precisely where since it doesn't show too well on asphalt. The best I could make out with the oil slick is that it's roughly the size of my palm and seemingly centered around the oil pan. I did my best doing a cursory look around the engine bay to see where the oil is coming from. The turbo, exhaust, and intake headers are free of oil but then something on top of the engine block caught my eye.





Sopped it up with a paper napkin and yeah that looks like the fresh motor oil I just put in last Tuesday.



Looking back underneath, I can see that presumably oil is all over the loving engine and everything beneath it probably from making its way from that pooling at the top of the engine. I have a feeling that the cardboard isn't going to pick up anything substantial but still worth leaving it there just to be sure there's not active leaks lower on the engine.



Question is where the gently caress did that all come from? Definitely not going to drive it until I figure out what's happening and get a game plan together. As for work, I do have to go in but at least I have the option of using my e-bike and the train to commute although it's not the most convenient and more than doubles my commute time.

Edward IV fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Aug 12, 2022

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Oil pressure switch is right about there. I've seen a couple of them break and leak oil.

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

jamal posted:

Oil pressure switch is right about there. I've seen a couple of them break and leak oil.

Well that makes a lot of sense and would explain the intermittent low oil pressure warning I was getting. Doesn't look too bad to get to unless there's more to the diagram that I'm missing.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Forester-25L-TURBO-MT-XT-Sports/_54102_6023229/CYLINDER-BLOCK-SYSTEM/S11-004-01.html

After 11 hours, there's still oil dripping but hopefully all of that is from the 1 to 2 qts of oil that leaked out of the switch and has now pooled all over the engine. Hopefully that's all there is to it which would be a big sigh of relief. The possibility of blown rings, valves, or headgaskets was making me very nervous.

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

It's been about 3 days since I checked the oil level and it looks like there is no noticeable leak at least in the sump since it's still reading about the same as before. Probably should flip the cardboard or put down a clean piece to see how much more is dripping.

Found the pressure switch to confirm that it does match the schematic but the oil splash pattern has left me confused.





It strikes me as odd how the switch itself and the boss that it's threaded into seems to be dry. In fact, it's weird how some things are drenched in oil but others are clean.

Even more weird is that the timing belt cover isn't covered in oil despite being so close to the pressure switch unless air flow from driving had some effect on where the oil went.



Maybe there is a small leak on the far side of the switch that I can't see but it's hard to imagine how that could have resulted in this splash pattern. I'm having some doubts that the oil may not be coming from the pressure switch but what else could it be?

Also, is there a recommended or preferred place to get a replacement switch besides Amazon or eBay?

Edward IV fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 15, 2022

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Stupid question....are the left and right side cams different? Cams were packed separately with a new set of heads I got, and not labelled.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari
Yes, but they should be marked.

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
They’re right.

hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008

Rolo posted:

They’re right.



I thought it was a modded 5 door Impreza at first which I was sad about on many, many levels.

hobbesmaster fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Aug 23, 2022

SwissArmyDruid
Feb 14, 2014

by sebmojo
Yeah, I didn't even realize the back end was crumpled in until after I read the comment.

hobbesmaster
Jan 28, 2008

The thumbnail on my phone seriously makes the trunk lid look like a hatchback’s “spoiler”

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Rolo posted:

They’re right.



drat that car got hard hard. Someone really hosed up in a suburban area

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Aware
Nov 18, 2003

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

drat that car got hard hard. Someone really hosed up in a suburban area

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

That was my first thought too

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Any recommendations on a lift kit for a 2021 WRX? The LP Adventure one looks like everything needed all in one box, but figured it was worth asking here before spending $800.

This is a DD in rural Minnesota & Wisconsin, so I'm good with sacrificing a little body roll to get a couple inches of snow clearance.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





I'm curious on the answer to that as well. I just recently moved and even without snow I have to be careful not to scrape on my 2014 WRX. Is lifting a possible solution, or does it completely ruin the handling of the car?

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
I would be curious about lift kits for the '10-14 Outbacks. I remember Sumo being recommended years ago but their website is suspended.

One of my neighbors has a little lift on his Outback and it looks pretty nice. I just can't bump into him in a timely manner to ask which brand he used.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Has anyone ever put a trailer hitch on their Subaru? What product did you use? I'm thinking about putting one on my Impreza for a tiny trailer just for stuff like car parts or furniture that won't quite fit in my hatchback. I'd also like to get a winch adapter mount for it if possible. I'm reticent to put a front mounted winch on there. I've got a paramedic friend who told me about a MVA they attended where a winch mount on a Jeep turned into a battering ram that hit dead on the driver's side door of another car and turned the driver's rib cage into gravel.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
You can get trailer hitches, yes. You won't be able to tow much, my Outback is rated for 2700lbs. Not sure what an Impreza would be rated at, almost certainly lower. I don't know what brand mine is, but it's a standard 2" receiver. Though you'll probably have smaller options available.

A winch is a little different, but mounting it to a removable hitch mount would be an easy way to keep it from getting stolen.

Uhaul shops, of all places, will sell, and often install, an appropriate hitch for you. Might take a week or two for it to show up at the shop before install though.

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



I put a Curt 2" hitch receiver on my Crosstrek. I just used it for my bike rack since I have a heavy gravel bike and roof mount is a bit unwieldy for 25+ lbs bike. I probably wouldn't tow anything with the CVT though. There's also a towing thread that came out of the last time you asked about towing you might want to check out.

Edit: Crosstrek is rated at 1500 lbs in US, 1500 kg in europe so I suspect Impreza is similar. It's probably just easier to rent a home depot truck for $20 for the few times you need to haul big loads if you're not using it for a bike rack.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Yeah I don't expect to be able to tow much, it says 750kg so 1650lb. That should be enough for a trailer and an engine and transmission or similar, though. And likely at better fuel efficiency than my truck even if/when the truck is up and running again. Also moving furniture around town would be nice but I wouldn't be quite as on board with it if it wasn't for the winch issue. I need a winch and something to mount it to so I can put a snatch block on a stake and pull my dead cars into the garage.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
You need a Baja.

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luminalflux
May 27, 2005



What transmission do you have in the Impreza? If it's a CVT I probably wouldn't bother.

I'd also probably think about exactly how often you will be moving furniture around town - don't you live in a tiny-rear end trailer? Seems easier to rent a u-haul for those occasions

edit:

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

You need a Baja.

luminalflux fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Sep 3, 2022

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