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Neptune 3 is operational. Carbon units will be deleted. :cylon: Something is wrong, this doesn't look like longhaired surfer Swayze at *all*.  (Specks are dirt and dust from where I dropped it on the floor, it all blew off later.) Second print, because I didn't have the vert offset quite right and the nozzle dragged a bit and false-positived a filament break and dragged threads all over. (Picture missing because Imgur is taking a poo poo this morning.) Default settings (except the vert), test filament straight out of the baggie, only physical tweaking was using the CD-case levelling trick and wrenching the rattle from the extruder and bed. Didn't even update the firmware.   DAT rear end. Well, dose layers, anyway. First few layers look like they boogered a little, but after that no blems that I'm seeing.  His hair is nicer than mine.  Like I said, filthy. Will throw one of the IIIDMax PLA+ on the arm tonight, because I only have less than 2 meters of that test filament left. Print me some calibration stuff, play with settings, make an actual Benchy... might even update the firmware. I will say, drat this is quiet. Either my hearing is damaged enough that I can't judge 50 decibels, or the specs are wrong for noise output; I have to work to make out the sound of the printing over my PC's cooling fans. Assembly was dog-simple - only issues were my hands (gently caress arthritis/neuropathy, that is all), and trying to blind-insert screws into the PSU, and even that wasn't too problematic. More after I managed to set myself on fire.
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Aug 24, 2022 19:02
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Love me some clean, chunky layers.
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Aug 24, 2022 20:32
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Ygolonac posted:Neptune 3 is operational. Beware the "printer likes to forget its Z-offset value after a power cycle, and also never uses the stored bed mesh" issues that a lot of people are having. Turns out that's how I mummified my hot end in half a spool of filament, the Z was waaaaaaaaaay off, and I didn't stick around to watch any of the first layer go down before I turned my back on it for a few hours. I've got copies of the two most recent firmware versions for both the screen and control board if you end up needing a boost, and if you feel like you can trust a random goon's web server (I won't be offended if you don't): https://www.farscapeprops.com/Neptune3_firmware-20220711-D.zip https://www.farscapeprops.com/Neptune3_firmware-20220816.zip I have the earlier of the two on mine right now, and that's been working well so I haven't flashed it with the newer one yet. It seems really hit or miss as to whether you'll have a problem, but these files are straight from Elegoo's customer support. To their credit they are actively working on things.
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Aug 24, 2022 21:45
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So I printed an R/C FJ40 4x4. It turned out pretty great! I did everything in PLA, including the gearbox, drive shafts, differentials, etc. It's an open diff on the front and closed on the rear. The only things that weren't printed was the brushless motor & controller, the tires, the shocks, and the steering servo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfscBTuvUss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4DnD_cguTE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPfgqytF5h8 However, I actually went with a marginally higher RPM motor and larger battery than was originally suggested, because why not? Well, in the week since I finished assembly, I've had to replace drive shafts and cardans like seven times. My printer is basically just full time printing replacement parts, because they either snap from the super high torque, or they melt if I go full throttle for more than a minute or so.    So I kinda need to go with a different material, and I'm looking for some suggestions. Something with a higher temp tolerance but also a little more tensile strength... but ideally without having to swap for a hardened nozzle? Although I guess if that's necessary then so be it. It's better than rebuilding the drive train every day. [edit] I'm using a Prusa mk3s+ ephori fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 21:54
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ephori posted:So I kinda need to go with a different material, and I'm looking for some suggestions. Something with a higher temp tolerance but also a little more tensile strength... but ideally without having to swap for a hardened nozzle? Although I guess if that's necessary then so be it. It's better than rebuilding the drive train every day. eSun ABS+
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Aug 24, 2022 22:09
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Deviant posted:(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻ Ooh I've had this happen a number of times, but I've been lucky it hasn't affected a print yet. Running a calibration process usually picks it up.
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Aug 24, 2022 22:27
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mewse posted:eSun ABS+ Or PETG if you don’t want to deal with ABS.
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Aug 24, 2022 22:32
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i mean the real answer is i don't NEED to print an entire build plate of these at once, but now i've taken doing the entire run of 42 flawlessly as a challenge. i'm just about there.
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Aug 24, 2022 23:08
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mewse posted:eSun ABS+ Thanks, I'll give that a shot!
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Aug 24, 2022 23:15
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Are "engineering" resins as good for mechanical parts, enclosures, etc as fdm at this point?
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Aug 24, 2022 23:48
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Acid Reflux posted:Beware the "printer likes to forget its Z-offset value after a power cycle, and also never uses the stored bed mesh" issues that a lot of people are having. Turns out that's how I mummified my hot end in half a spool of filament, the Z was waaaaaaaaaay off, and I didn't stick around to watch any of the first layer go down before I turned my back on it for a few hours. Hey, I bought the silly thing (and the load of PLA+) on your recommendations, I can take a chance on sketchy webservers.  Looked at some other folks' Buddhaprints, and yeah, something wasn't right with my first layers. Will research it more from home, where I'm not having random images deciding not to display. Wonder if anyone has made a life-size model for Norris's head-spider from The Thing?
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Aug 25, 2022 00:20
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ephori posted:So I kinda need to go with a different material, and I'm looking for some suggestions. Something with a higher temp tolerance but also a little more tensile strength... but ideally without having to swap for a hardened nozzle? Although I guess if that's necessary then so be it. It's better than rebuilding the drive train every day. PC Blend baby, I print it all day on my Mini. slurm posted:Are "engineering" resins as good for mechanical parts, enclosures, etc as fdm at this point? From Formlabs and Loctite or BASF, in many cases yes. There’s no real substitute for nylon or composites, though. NewFatMike fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Aug 25, 2022 |
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Aug 25, 2022 00:39
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I wonder if a flexible shaft would work
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Aug 25, 2022 00:41
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slurm posted:Are "engineering" resins as good for mechanical parts, enclosures, etc as fdm at this point? Off of consumer level resin printers? Not in my experience. Some of the Formlabs resins, after being properly cured, get close. High-end two-part resins in fancy printers are there now, and some are starting to rival injection molding. I think Ambrose Burnsides has done the most with pushing the limits of what consumer resins can do, or at least has posted the most in this thread about his successes and failures. Which reminds me that I promised a trip report on the Carbon 3D printers. I'll try to type up something about them this weekend but the short of it is that they're terrible for anything a consumer would want to do, but potentially very awesome for a company wanting to do production 3d printing of parts that can leverage the strengths of additive processes. e: I agree with NewFatMike--and forgot about the BASF and Locktite resins! Wanderless fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Aug 25, 2022 |
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Aug 25, 2022 00:46
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NewFatMike posted:PC Blend baby, I print it all day on my Mini. So is FDM basically a dead end except for systems with continuous reinforcement?
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Aug 25, 2022 00:46
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slurm posted:So is FDM basically a dead end except for systems with continuous reinforcement? That’s a pretty wild read on what I wrote. Even chopped fiber reinforcement is dramatically stronger than what resins can achieve toughness wise. Additionally, thermoplastics don’t need to cure which can induce warping. FDM is still king of the roost, especially for price. A liter of real engineering resin runs in the hundreds of dollars. It’s all about your choice matrix—if you’re doing impellers or submerged parts, watertight resin prints are great and can achieve quite a lot with careful design and material choice. That’s not even to get into size requirements—a Form XL is probably the most affordable machine that has access to engineering resins for large format prints and that runs $10k minimum.
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Aug 25, 2022 01:01
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So I started blasting, with a custom Gecko nerf blaster This was a fun print/build.
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Aug 25, 2022 01:03
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Would anyone happen to know why, when switching CAD apps from onshape to solidworks, the latter's exported STLs show up sideways in the slicer? It's like it's swapping two of the axis or something
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Aug 25, 2022 01:13
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SOLIDWORKS defaults to Y axis up rather than Z. You can change that in the settings or document templates.
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Aug 25, 2022 01:17
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mattfl posted:So I started blasting, with a custom Gecko nerf blaster Nice. 3D printed nerf blasters are something I've wanted to do for a while now. Which is why I'm currently in the process of printing a Caliburn 4 as the first actually large thing I've used my printer for.
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Aug 25, 2022 01:26
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Deviant posted:i mean the real answer is i don't NEED to print an entire build plate of these at once, but now i've taken doing the entire run of 42 flawlessly as a challenge. It's really satisfying when there's a definitive solution to the problem. You made me walk to the other room and check my zip ties too.
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Aug 25, 2022 01:29
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mattfl posted:So I started blasting, with a custom Gecko nerf blaster This looks awesome!
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Aug 25, 2022 01:57
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Vaporware posted:Like I said, just trying to figure out if I need to stop here. I've been slightly under extruding on top surfaces on other longer prints but nothing that would fail the print. Where you stop is up to you, I still don't really know what problem you're trying to solve. I would look at that and be perfectly satisfied, but I don't know what that part needs to do.
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Aug 25, 2022 02:25
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Cory Parsnipson posted:It's really satisfying when there's a definitive solution to the problem. You made me walk to the other room and check my zip ties too. I had to tweak my x-belt too, it was randomly making parallelograms instead of circles. Seems fine now.
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Aug 25, 2022 02:44
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mattfl posted:So I started blasting, with a custom Gecko nerf blaster Sweet print, turned out great! ephori posted:So I printed an R/C FJ40 4x4. It turned out pretty great! drat this is cool, nice one! Have you tried any other materials besides pla for the axles? Maybe need something like abs or asa. Or I really like polymaker polymax pla for it's ease of printing.
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Aug 25, 2022 03:59
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Why is everybody suggesting everything except the actual right answer for the CV plastic. It's unfilled nylon. If everything else is melting from friction, changing to an even stickier plastic like ABS isn't going to solve it.
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Aug 25, 2022 05:29
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So, did some test printing and uploading images. Failed first print, with the strings mostly removed. You can see where some of the first layers got smooshed over. There's the base layers, about as clear a shot as I could make.  Fuzzier but showing more.   Someone else's print, with non-munged first layers. Did a partial print, just to check, and had about the same ugly first layers. (No pictures yet.) Went to a 3x3 first-layer-only calibration test.  Started at the lower right, and you can see the roughness; as the print continued, the mid-to-upper left smoothed out nicely, for the most part.  Angled to show the terrain - bottom is the start.  Close-up of the bottom right texture. Everything is adhering fine, and there's no gaps. Kinda wondering if it's a temp issue, where it's a little off at the start but stabilizes as the print continues? All this is still the default firmware/PLA/settings. Will try the PLA+ next... EDIT - well, poo poo. Popped the square off the bed, and that upper-left corner? I could see light though it.   Top  Bottom So, that would seem to be the bed leveling, if I'm reading this right:  Argh. Ygolonac fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Aug 25, 2022 |
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Aug 25, 2022 06:12
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Ygolonac posted:So, did some test printing and uploading images. Yeah your bed may be a touch low on that one corner.
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Aug 25, 2022 11:55
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Thanks guys. I think I'm gonna print another one for my brother in a different color scheme too Also, it's in my favorite filament Fusion Rigid Green ABS which is UV reactive. 
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Aug 25, 2022 12:09
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I am a crazy person and have never printed anything on a 3D printer before, so I ordered an Elegoo Saturn 2, but it won't arrive until September so I also ordered an Anycubic Kobra to print some terrain in the meantime and it is arriving tomorrow. Excited to print up a storm this weekend! And by storm I mean a few test prints!
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Aug 25, 2022 13:43
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Ygolonac posted:
If it had manual leveling, I might bring that corner up a tiiiiny bit, but honestly, if it were me I'd call it close enough and move on with my life. Unless you are printing very thin things, or stuff that needs tight tolerances, I doubt it will be an issue. Sometimes the first couple layers aren't perfect, but in my experience unless it's not adhering or it's pulling off the bed it stabilizes after that.
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Aug 25, 2022 14:23
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One of my resin printers is have some pretty annoying bed adhesion issues. What should I be aiming for bottom exposure wise. My resin is at 3.5s, and I was doing 50s on my flrxplate, but have been dialing it down a little bit as I've been wondering if over exposure is my issue. 0.03 layers, 10 bottom layers with a 20 layer transition
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Aug 25, 2022 14:33
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w00tmonger posted:One of my resin printers is have some pretty annoying bed adhesion issues. What should I be aiming for bottom exposure wise. What's it doing wrong? That does seem overexposed, but that should only make it harder to remove from the plate, not make it fall off. The general advice is your bottom exposure should be 5-6x your normal exposure. So for 3.5, You should be able to get away with 20-25s bottom exposure. I do 6 bottom layers and 6 transition layers. 20 seems excessive. Again, it shouldn't make it fail if you overdo it, it will just be slower. The usual suspects are a worn FEP, unleveled plate, or poor supports. Any pictures of failures? What kind of printer, and resin are you using? How old is the printer? Have you done an LCD check recently? You may want to re-level first - quickest and most obvious fix.
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Aug 25, 2022 14:46
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Ygolonac posted:So, that would seem to be the bed leveling, if I'm reading this right: Yeah but you're not off by much. Does your printer have an auto leveling system? That should take care of small variance like that, so it might not be configured correctly if so. If not, you'll just need to spend a little more time twiddling knobs. The weird bottom layers are due to the nozzle being a bit too close to the bed, just back off like .2mm until it stops, but not so much it stops adhering.
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Aug 25, 2022 15:16
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Doctor Zero posted:What's it doing wrong? That does seem overexposed, but that should only make it harder to remove from the plate, not make it fall off. Re-leveled a few times, I've checked the fep but not replaced it recently. Failure is essentially a raft stuck to the fep instead of the plate, scattered across the build area. It's a Saturn, printers probably about a year old, but I'm running it 25/7 for merchant purposes so who knows how good that metric is anymore . Historically it's been working fine, so it makes me either think I'm massively overexposing, and making it brittle, or a feo issue. I generally go 10x exposure for bottom and it seems to work fine, but maybe that's been a bad idea. Other 2 Saturn's are working fine but they're older and have massively differe t exposure settings.
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Aug 25, 2022 15:23
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Has anyone printed with Polyoxymethylene? Also known as acetal, polyacetal, or POM. It is apparently challenging to print for adhesion issues and needs proper ventilation and possibly a heated chamber and all that, But the actual thing that caught my interest was its glass transition temperature of -30C. What does this really mean both for the printing process and the printed parts themselves? Do they not hold their shape well? Are they extremely non brittle to a fault? A lot of filaments seem to suffer under high passive heat, leaving it in a hot car for example. Is POM very good in that situation or very bad?
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Aug 25, 2022 15:48
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Serenade posted:Has anyone printed with Polyoxymethylene? Also known as acetal, polyacetal, or POM. It just means it's technically non-solid at room temp. Think of it like a very, very, very stiff rubber. It's not an amorphous polymer like ABS, it's crystalline. It has a secondary transition to a flow state that's more relevant to 3d printing purposes. Delrin is very stable, stays pliable and has very very high lubricity, so it's great for bearings. It's also an unholy bitch to print and frankly not worth it unless you have really specific needs. Pretty good for machining though. e: also it's not self-extinguishing, don't set it on fire ever
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Aug 25, 2022 16:11
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:It just means it's technically non-solid at room temp. Think of it like a very, very, very stiff rubber. It's not an amorphous polymer like ABS, it's crystalline. It has a secondary transition to a flow state that's more relevant to 3d printing purposes. Delrin is very stable, stays pliable and has very very high lubricity, so it's great for bearings. Not being a mechanical or chemical engineer, "it's a type of plastic you don't know about" is an answer that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I was thinking about it for some wearable stuff as well, but I doubt those have a real need for the mechanical properties. And the fire thing, that seems bad as well. Maybe if I need to print a spool's worth of gears and mechanical parts, but that's venturing into the territory of a solution looking for a problem.
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Aug 25, 2022 16:30
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Serenade posted:I was thinking about it for some wearable stuff as well, but I doubt those have a real need for the mechanical properties. And the fire thing, that seems bad as well. Yeah unless you have a really, really specific need, forget it. I can't overstate how difficult and toxic POM is to print. I promise you it isn't worth it. If you need something flexible, TPU is much friendlier, although it has its own completely separate world of issues.
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Aug 25, 2022 16:41
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w00tmonger posted:Re-leveled a few times, I've checked the fep but not replaced it recently. Failure is essentially a raft stuck to the fep instead of the plate, scattered across the build area. How far in to the print process is it failing? It might look like a raft after the initial layers completely fail to adhere and then the rest of the printing process exposes the same area over and over until done. Might not even be making a bond right from the start. Is it the same location on the plate each time independent of the print or does it migrate to a new place with the same print moved around? ....I ask because I may or may not have made a model that was off the "floor" of the slicer without me noticing for a bit.
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Aug 25, 2022 16:50
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