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joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
The single most important gauge on this old car is the water temperature gauge, which didn't work, so got a cheapo gauge to get it running.


Finally pulled the gauge. The capillary tube was broken right at the gauge.


Had to build an adapter to go from the remains of the original tube to the smaller tube on the sacrificial water temp gauge.


With the sensor bulb in a salt water and ice bath to keep the ether in the bulb, cut and soldered the new tube into the gauge, and ... test.

Totally jazzed that it works. May try to adjust it to a bit more accurate tomorrow.
e: or just rotate the face to the correct position.

joat mon fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Aug 19, 2022

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chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

joat mon posted:

The single most important gauge on this old car is the water temperature gauge, which didn't work, so got a cheapo gauge to get it running.


Finally pulled the gauge. The capillary tube was broken right at the gauge.


Had to build an adapter to go from the remains of the original tube to the smaller tube on the sacrificial water temp gauge.


With the sensor bulb in a salt water and ice bath to keep the ether in the bulb, cut and soldered the new tube into the gauge, and ... test.

Totally jazzed that it works. May try to adjust it to a bit more accurate tomorrow.
e: or just rotate the face to the correct position.


That's really cool, i had no idea you could fix those! did you have to add any new ether, or did it just work?
If you rotate the face, you'll lose the oil pressure calibration, if you can even rotate it due to having two needles.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

chrisgt posted:

That's really cool, i had no idea you could fix those! did you have to add any new ether, or did it just work?

The ether in the old one was long gone. A new generic gauge donated its capillary tube, bulb and ether to the cause. The saltwater/ice bath kept the ether in the bulb while I cut/cleaned/soldered the new tube into the back of the gauge. I could smell that some ether was lost when I cut it (just the vapor left in the tube), but no need to top it off - the precise amount of liquid ether in the system has no effect on accuracy.

Motronic posted:

It could be a thimbleful, it could be a tanker truck full. That's just how physics works. No matter how much or how little of a liquid you have its vapor pressure is constant at a given temperature.
There's a repair method that doesn't need a sacrificial water temp gauge, where you fix your old tube/bulb and then refill it with ether, but I think it's more of a pain - this way is worth the $25 for a generic gauge.

chrisgt posted:

If you rotate the face, you'll lose the oil pressure calibration, if you can even rotate it due to having two needles.
There is a locating tab on the face that matches a notch on the outer shell of the gauge. It wasn't in place for the first test picture. Properly aligned for the second, it was dead on. The 59 year old gauge ended up being more accurate than the new gauge that contributed its tube/bulb/ether.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

joat mon posted:

Motronic posted:

It could be a thimbleful, it could be a tanker truck full. That's just how physics works. No matter how much or how little of a liquid you have its vapor pressure is constant at a given temperature.

this is true, however, if you are low on ether it might be liquid at lower temps and then all turn to gas before the engine is up to temperature, which would harm the calibration.

Makes sense, though. I've never thought about repairing these, now i almost hope I get to some day, lol.

Proletarian Mango
May 21, 2011

hello, ai.



Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Welcome to hell, enjoy your stay


E:If you got those of without anything breaking, you are a wizard.

Proletarian Mango
May 21, 2011

they came out easy once i welded a nut on and followed it up with a shot of pb blast. cutting everything else away with the sawzall to get to that point was the bigger pain the the rear end

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
which WWII aircraft that crashed in the Pacific are you working on?

Proletarian Mango
May 21, 2011

'07 lincoln town car

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Shortened the stock BRZ driveshaft since the aluminum one vibrates at 70mph+. Probably should have left another 1/2", but it should be fine. No more vibration though!





Also almost got hosed by the fuel gauge still not working correctly, just under half a tank indicated with 145mi odo and it took 11.5gal. That is more than I get into my other BRZ when the fuel light is on.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

BlackMK4 posted:

Also almost got hosed by the fuel gauge still not working correctly, just under half a tank indicated with 145mi odo and it took 11.5gal. That is more than I get into my other BRZ when the fuel light is on.

i put almost exactly 16 gallons into my 15 gallon tank yesterday with the gauge showing about 1/8 tank left, so samesies

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Raluek posted:

i put almost exactly 16 gallons into my 15 gallon tank yesterday with the gauge showing about 1/8 tank left, so samesies

My Fit is the opposite. It will show zero fuel blips and zero range, and I’ll put like 8.5 gallons in the 10.5 gallon tank. I’ve gone 60 miles past zero indicated range and only put 10 in.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Fuel gauge in the C10 used to work then one day stopped after it had some work done. Of course when I swapped to EFI I found someone had crushed the sender wire so it always read empty due to the resistance. Been too lazy to fix that.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I put $50 in my superduty the other day and it didn't even shut the fuel light off :smith:

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
The front tank on my hooptie sank its float sometime in 2020. I found out in 2021 the retaining ring is rusted to the tank which makes removal and repair/replacement of the sender a thing that is not happening.

I recently had to time it so that I could drop the tank and also not have to drop 20 gallons of diesel with it. Pretty much drive till the engine sputters or doesn't quite pull like it should then flip to the second tank before it sucks a bunch of air into the system. (it autobleeds but is a pissy bastard about it the next morning if there's *any* air left in the filter head)

It still had 5-6 gallons of fuel in it. Also looks like the tank itself might be compromised but I couldn't tell from all the oil the dead engine sprayed everywhere.
Costs. I generally don't run it lower than 3/8 tank averaged over the two tanks with a capacity of 40 gallons. Couple fills in the 140-150 dollar range this year. 2022's average is $123.48, 2021's is $76.66.

Relevant to this thread. Its not what I did today, but the last eh six weeks.
I've figured out why the frame broke in NoDak last year. Its been solved. Mostly.
The bed bolts on the driver's side frame rail keep backing out due to the creative fabrication done by a pro fab shop. More of their creative work resulted in part of the bed's deck pulling away from the bed's subframe.
I thought the whole thing only sat under compression till a few outings ago and saw that the two parts had pulled away which is where I discovered its also under tension under the right circumstances.
The camper works as a giant hammer on the bed. Which then acts on the bed's subframe that's loosely bolted to the chassis like a chisel. A fine point to direct a large load which is overloading the flange.

I should mention I really dislike pulling fuel tanks. Even if I can hang ratchet straps from the bed and lower the tank to the ground sort of gracefully. It still sucks.


The lengthwise beam is a piece of C channel(This is the bed's subframe). The horizontal beam is flanged(this is the deck). The fabricator cut the top piece of the C off and welded the horizontal section to it. Cue it also rusting out.



Mobile welder guy has a pretty sweet setup. 454 powered too.



This is also when I figured out my offroad shenanigans from July prior to this work cracked the upper flange.


And because there's 20 loving gallons of fuel in the front tank, this is its temp patch so I could jet to rural rear end NV in a few days.


I didn't break it. I did almost roll the truck though.
And last week.

one piece of strap below the flange, overlapping with one above. Net effect is the '96-97 f-superduty riveted on reinforcements. All of the work here is symmetrical so its not just the one corner and frame rail.
This time, it shouldn't break. Guy says if I can break it he'll fix it for free. He clearly doesn't know me.

And this week:
Replacing the grade-5 bed to chassis bolts with grade-8. That should be it for the bed.
New adjustable panhard rode to compensate for the F53 motorhome springs and get the front end's geometry sorted.
Converting the airbox from bolts to studs to prevent pulling the threads out.
New airflow restriction gauge and throwing in all new fender liner hardware.
Should also get its tires rotated.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 25, 2022

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Powershift posted:

I put $50 in my superduty the other day and it didn't even shut the fuel light off :smith:

$86 gave me half a tank, but if the gauge is even half way close to accurate I'm rocking 10MPG.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

the spyder posted:

$86 gave me half a tank, but if the gauge is even half way close to accurate I'm rocking 10MPG.

nice, you got to double digits!

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I drove around all day on $1.50 worth of electrons that I pumped into my car at my house.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I'm just sitting here wondering how I can make an 80s toyota truck run in the 35mpg range (engine size, gear box, right diff gear ratio, right tire size, diesel or gas engine) or if I should just give up the idea of even starting up such a project. Because I don't think I could accept a car that does worse than that. I'm used to 55mpg and paying 7.60$/gal here for diesel, gas is 8.20$.

Locally produced biogas is equivalent to 3.8$/gal though, which is why I am interested in doing a conversion.

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Aug 22, 2022

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i remember when i was a kid, i was telling my uncle that when i grow up and get a jeep, i thought it was a good idea to downsize to a V6 because it would be a little more economical to fuel. his response was "you know... that's why we make money for a living." and that stuck with me since. money exists to be spent on fun stuff, so saving a few bucks to go from 12MPG to 18MPG or whatever is peanuts compared to the joy of V8 power. get the thing you want, even if it costs a little bit more.

and by god, he's right. gas is gonna have to get a lot more expensive before it becomes prohibitive to have a little fun on the way home from work. car poo poo is a hobby we probably all share here, and it's ok for hobbies to cost money. i dont have a jeep yet, but when i do get one i know it won't have a V6, lol

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I'm the opposite personality. To me money is a scarce resource, I am not well paid and I have a family to consider. I can't spend shitloads of money on fun stuff for myself without justification and I don't think I could enjoy a gas guzzler even if I had the money. I mean the enivronmental consequences for one, and the inefficiency, that bothers me.

The appeal to me of such a project is the idea of learning more indepth about cars, engines, transmissions, etc... The idea of ending up a car that's reliable, efficent and able to be serviced by myself in the smallest detail, and I like the idea of the simpler 1980s tech where it's possible for me to do almost everything... Self reliance in a way is what's always motivated my hobbies, to be able to make and fix as much stuff as possible and buy as little as possible.

And on top of that the idea of converting to biogas means I could run on a carbon neutral, locally produced fuel that's half the price of gas. That would be wonderful.

I am not sure this is a hobby for me, as much as a series of long term lifestyle choices.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

His Divine Shadow posted:

I can't spend shitloads of money on fun stuff for myself without justification

Considering the things you post this sounds like a story you are telling yourself. You may even believe it. Or maybe "justification" is the load bearing part of that sentence.

In any case, the answer is simple: EV drivetrain swap. Nothing else is really worth pursuing because of the simple fact that reliable EV drivetrains exist.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific





REDACTED lol

Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Aug 23, 2022

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Thanks for your key biting! Someone will be by to get the Civic shortly (Kidding, hopefully).

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



RIP Paul Walker posted:

Thanks for your key biting! Someone will be by to get the Civic shortly (Kidding, hopefully).

They’ll pry it from my cold dead Honds.

Honda hands.

I tried.

I have a lot of similar-looking key fobs, so they’ve got to have some distinct feature to differentiate them.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Oh sorry, I should be more clear. That picture of your key is more than enough info for a moderately skilled miscreant to cut their own copy from code.

https://youtu.be/AayXf5aRFTI

Not that you have to worry too much here but you’ll notice (as an example) Doug Demuro holds keys he’s showing with the blade hidden.

dissss
Nov 10, 2007

I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.
TIL the generation 1 Leaf has polystyrene panels underneath the footwell carpets which are just perfect for trapping large amounts of water. Trying to chase down the leak is giving me flashbacks to my old 1990 Integra which I could never get to stay dry in rainy weather.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!

dissss posted:

TIL the generation 1 Leaf has polystyrene panels underneath the footwell carpets which are just perfect for trapping large amounts of water. Trying to chase down the leak is giving me flashbacks to my old 1990 Integra which I could never get to stay dry in rainy weather.

I love my third gen but holy hell these cars are some of the least water-tight vehicles on the road. The seals just don't work lol

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Motronic posted:

Considering the things you post this sounds like a story you are telling yourself. You may even believe it. Or maybe "justification" is the load bearing part of that sentence.

In any case, the answer is simple: EV drivetrain swap. Nothing else is really worth pursuing because of the simple fact that reliable EV drivetrains exist.

I'm not sure how to take your comment really, but I don't think you know me or my life from my posts on SA well enough to say that with enough certainty.

But I am competely willing to admit that justification gets to do some heavy lifting for me. Like I need to justify what I do to myself somehow as being in the end somewhat practical and not just a waste of time and money that will leave in the end no better off, even if it's in the end a very flimsy justfication that won't pan out.

But as I see it, at least working and rebuilding a car to this degree will give me usable skills if nothing else about my self-justifications hold true and I will end up a more capable person who can do more things on my own at home. At least I get more out of it than a sore rear end from sitting in a chair gaming my life away. The day I stop learning is the day I'm dead.

And you are most likely 100% correct about the EV thing, that's probably what I should do instead.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



RIP Paul Walker posted:

Oh sorry, I should be more clear. That picture of your key is more than enough info for a moderately skilled miscreant to cut their own copy from code.

https://youtu.be/AayXf5aRFTI

Not that you have to worry too much here but you’ll notice (as an example) Doug Demuro holds keys he’s showing with the blade hidden.

Yeah I got what you were saying. I REDACTED the pic once you mentioned it.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


cursedshitbox posted:

The front tank on my hooptie sank its float sometime in 2020. I found out in 2021 the retaining ring is rusted to the tank which makes removal and repair/replacement of the sender a thing that is not happening.

I recently had to time it so that I could drop the tank and also not have to drop 20 gallons of diesel with it. Pretty much drive till the engine sputters or doesn't quite pull like it should then flip to the second tank before it sucks a bunch of air into the system. (it autobleeds but is a pissy bastard about it the next morning if there's *any* air left in the filter head)

It still had 5-6 gallons of fuel in it. Also looks like the tank itself might be compromised but I couldn't tell from all the oil the dead engine sprayed everywhere.
Costs. I generally don't run it lower than 3/8 tank averaged over the two tanks with a capacity of 40 gallons. Couple fills in the 140-150 dollar range this year. 2022's average is $123.48, 2021's is $76.66.

Relevant to this thread. Its not what I did today, but the last eh six weeks.
I've figured out why the frame broke in NoDak last year. Its been solved. Mostly.
The bed bolts on the driver's side frame rail keep backing out due to the creative fabrication done by a pro fab shop. More of their creative work resulted in part of the bed's deck pulling away from the bed's subframe.
I thought the whole thing only sat under compression till a few outings ago and saw that the two parts had pulled away which is where I discovered its also under tension under the right circumstances.
The camper works as a giant hammer on the bed. Which then acts on the bed's subframe that's loosely bolted to the chassis like a chisel. A fine point to direct a large load which is overloading the flange.

I should mention I really dislike pulling fuel tanks. Even if I can hang ratchet straps from the bed and lower the tank to the ground sort of gracefully. It still sucks.


The lengthwise beam is a piece of C channel(This is the bed's subframe). The horizontal beam is flanged(this is the deck). The fabricator cut the top piece of the C off and welded the horizontal section to it. Cue it also rusting out.



Mobile welder guy has a pretty sweet setup. 454 powered too.



This is also when I figured out my offroad shenanigans from July prior to this work cracked the upper flange.


And because there's 20 loving gallons of fuel in the front tank, this is its temp patch so I could jet to rural rear end NV in a few days.


I didn't break it. I did almost roll the truck though.
And last week.

one piece of strap below the flange, overlapping with one above. Net effect is the '96-97 f-superduty riveted on reinforcements. All of the work here is symmetrical so its not just the one corner and frame rail.
This time, it shouldn't break. Guy says if I can break it he'll fix it for free. He clearly doesn't know me.

And this week:
Replacing the grade-5 bed to chassis bolts with grade-8. That should be it for the bed.
New adjustable panhard rode to compensate for the F53 motorhome springs and get the front end's geometry sorted.
Converting the airbox from bolts to studs to prevent pulling the threads out.
New airflow restriction gauge and throwing in all new fender liner hardware.
Should also get its tires rotated.

None of your images are working, friend - and I want to see what's going on.

Motronic posted:

Considering the things you post this sounds like a story you are telling yourself. You may even believe it. Or maybe "justification" is the load bearing part of that sentence.

In any case, the answer is simple: EV drivetrain swap. Nothing else is really worth pursuing because of the simple fact that reliable EV drivetrains exist.

His Divine Shadow posted:

I'm not sure how to take your comment really, but I don't think you know me or my life from my posts on SA well enough to say that with enough certainty.

But I am competely willing to admit that justification gets to do some heavy lifting for me. Like I need to justify what I do to myself somehow as being in the end somewhat practical and not just a waste of time and money that will leave in the end no better off, even if it's in the end a very flimsy justfication that won't pan out.

But as I see it, at least working and rebuilding a car to this degree will give me usable skills if nothing else about my self-justifications hold true and I will end up a more capable person who can do more things on my own at home. At least I get more out of it than a sore rear end from sitting in a chair gaming my life away. The day I stop learning is the day I'm dead.

And you are most likely 100% correct about the EV thing, that's probably what I should do instead.

The real question, as always, is whether or not the conversion EV, or otherwise, will cost less than the $$ you will save in gas, same with a car payment for a newer more efficient car.
Even at the high price earlier in the year, I can buy a poo poo-ton (1.3 metric poo poo-tonnes) of gas for a $400+ car payment, or the $$$ it would cost to refit one of my cars to EV or whatever.
I'm not saying don't do it, but if financials are your only motivation, do the math.
Personally, I want an EV RX-7 for the fun of it.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Darchangel posted:

None of your images are working, friend - and I want to see what's going on.



Fixed it. Imgur hosed itself bigtime early this week and hosed up a couple photo albums.
Full album of the work: https://imgur.com/a/ra0RRR1

E: new parts



Before. (The leaf shackles are out of alignment)

After.


Oh no GM parts on a Ford. Yeah whatever.

And a dry filter that I can wash with simplegreen since filters are pretty drat hard to find.


Tires are being rotated now..

Almost caught up. I'll probably spin new filters on when I pick it up from the tire rotation. Then I'll be set to laze it a few months when we launch.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Aug 25, 2022

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


cursedshitbox posted:

Fixed it. Imgur hosed itself bigtime early this week and hosed up a couple photo albums.
Full album of the work: https://imgur.com/a/ra0RRR1

Kinda like racing - you find all the weak points, fix them, and then find the next one down the line.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Darchangel posted:

Kinda like racing - you find all the weak points, fix them, and then find the next one down the line.

Sooner or later it'll be the frame that it should have had.
Post three more batteries and trailer I'm getting a bring along arc welder to do my own work on the fucker.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


cursedshitbox posted:

Sooner or later it'll be the frame that it should have had.
Post three more batteries and trailer I'm getting a bring along arc welder to do my own work on the fucker.

Ken was absolutely correct in calling it a Whip of Theseus.
It think that was Ken, anyway.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Darchangel posted:

Ken was absolutely correct in calling it a Whip of Theseus.
It think that was Ken, anyway.

It's getting there. The only original moving parts left in this fucker is the steering gearbox, its pump, and the front end's R&P. Granted I've not replaced all of it but in time, I will.

E: And I think the trip out to the mine blew up one of the hub lockouts so we can throw that on the list too.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009



So satisfying. Now I can finish swapping valve cover gaskets.

(that's a dome cap Torx 30 that's stripped and has been kicking my rear end for a couple tries)

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Darchangel posted:

The real question, as always, is whether or not the conversion EV, or otherwise, will cost less than the $$ you will save in gas, same with a car payment for a newer more efficient car.
Even at the high price earlier in the year, I can buy a poo poo-ton (1.3 metric poo poo-tonnes) of gas for a $400+ car payment, or the $$$ it would cost to refit one of my cars to EV or whatever.
I'm not saying don't do it, but if financials are your only motivation, do the math.
Personally, I want an EV RX-7 for the fun of it.

It's difficult math, fuel prices now and in the future will determine a lot of this. The motor I think is the least issue, the biggest issue are the batteries. Also depends on how one goes about acquiring those.

For now I am still thinking of getting that pickup, but running the original engine a while first and try and slowly scrounge up parts over time. I still need to talk to the car inspections people, to know if it's legally doable in Finland. I think it is but I don't know for sure. At any rate start of car project minimum 1 year, more likely two years.

P.S. And yes for sure, definitely an element of fun in it

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Aug 26, 2022

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Motronic posted:



So satisfying. Now I can finish swapping valve cover gaskets.

(that's a dome cap Torx 30 that's stripped and has been kicking my rear end for a couple tries)

Very satisfying.
Looks like you ended up having to weld a nut to it?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Darchangel posted:

Very satisfying.
Looks like you ended up having to weld a nut to it?

I pretty much started with that and failed 3 or 4 times until I came back to it and realized that if I got the die grinder in there and flattened the top of the bolt off I'd have a much better chance of a nut staying welded on. Worked the first time.

Now we're here and I've got a few hours of cleaning and "while you're in there" jobs to do, including cleaning out the hoses and kombi valves of this side of the goddamn SAI system:

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