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Motronic posted:Not sure what you're expecting here - nobody other than you knows what needs to be done or what you want to do. In general you should paint or replace/refinish floors before you move in. Do anything related to closets and storage spaces before you move in. Anything that produces a lot of dust or required a lot of equipment. It's worth pointing out that OP's house is new construction, so that changes things. Typically you'd want to do paint/floors/etc. immediately, because once you move furniture in it's a huge PITA to shuffle things around and you're just not going to want to do it. But new construction? At minimum you want to wait to paint because for the first ~year the house is going to be settling, so your nice paint job is going to get trashed by nail pops and whatnot. For sealing concrete, you want to wait a few months to make sure everything has fully cured. Though the slabs were probably poured months ago, so they might be fine by now.
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Aug 25, 2022 15:01
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DaveSauce posted:But new construction? At minimum you want to wait to paint because for the first ~year the house is going to be settling, so your nice paint job is going to get trashed by nail pops and whatnot. If your house is nail popping for an entire year there are worse issues. Like they left the materials pile out in the rain multiple times. Also, year old paint should touch up/match just fine unless you're using something from the dollar store for the very few potential nail pops you might get if your new homes was built properly.
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Aug 25, 2022 15:07
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Not sure if it was built to spec for the goon or if they are buying an as-built from a developer, but I would definitely do any in-wall work like moving/adding outlets, adding cable runs, etc before I painted or started putting furniture around. And if you’re doing that figure out if you wanted to add exterior electric if there isnt any already. Do everything in one shot while you have an electrician. Contractors are busy and it’s way easier for everyone if you know everything you want to do when you get them in the first time.
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Aug 25, 2022 15:17
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BigFactory posted:Not sure if it was built to spec for the goon or if they are buying an as-built from a developer, but I would definitely do any in-wall work like moving/adding outlets, adding cable runs, etc before I painted or started putting furniture around. And if you’re doing that figure out if you wanted to add exterior electric if there isnt any already. Do everything in one shot while you have an electrician. Contractors are busy and it’s way easier for everyone if you know everything you want to do when you get them in the first time. I will be adding a few dimmer switches because the markup through the builder was obscene, but otherwise shouldn't need to add any outlets and the like. I took a shitload of pictures when the house was wired with studs so that I have some idea of where everything is if I need to do work in the future This has been an incredibly slow build, so the porch and such were poured in March/April? It's definitely been a few months so I figure it should be thoroughly cured by now I guess to be more specific I am trying to identify preventative maintenance items - I would not have thought about needing to seal grout or counters until a friend of mine let me know how much of a PITA it was to get some stains out after living in his new home for a year. We have LVP flooring almost everywhere, so I don't believe I need to do anything with that, I would hope the windows and roof don't need any attention. Is there any "Break-in" period for HVAC or a gas fired tankless water heater?
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Aug 25, 2022 15:52
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Is this the right thread for fridge chat? I want to buy a new fridge, ideally something that doesn't have a hosed up temperature sensor and a broken ice dispenser but I would love to hear about fridge XYZ has amazing temperature control or whatever
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Aug 26, 2022 06:24
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Epiphyte posted:So we are finally closing on our new build home next month, and I am trying to come up with a list of everything I should take care of maintenance-wise prior to moving in May I suggest sweat etching your rear end print onto something like this goon? meatpimp posted:Etching is tough.
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Aug 26, 2022 06:46
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QuarkJets posted:Is this the right thread for fridge chat? I want to buy a new fridge, ideally something that doesn't have a hosed up temperature sensor and a broken ice dispenser but I would love to hear about fridge XYZ has amazing temperature control or whatever We got this LG in June and it has been great so far. Not exactly a long term review, but the people I know with LG fridges all still like them. https://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Elec...7626S/312284852
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Aug 26, 2022 13:52
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QuarkJets posted:Is this the right thread for fridge chat? I want to buy a new fridge, ideally something that doesn't have a hosed up temperature sensor and a broken ice dispenser but I would love to hear about fridge XYZ has amazing temperature control or whatever We have had a French door, single drawer freezer on bottom LG for about 9 years. Zero issues with performance, but with the disclaimer it doesn't have any ice or water dispensing and we don't use the icemaker it does have. Keeps stuff cold but doesn't freeze them in the refrigerator section. Sometime this year the spring that ensures the flap between the doors is in the correct position when you close the left door broke off, but the way the grooves that receive that flap work it ends up in the correct position 95% of the time anyway.
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Aug 26, 2022 14:04
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Epiphyte posted:Fortunately I was able to spec out most of what I needed. It’s probably a long shot, but see if you can get paint manufacturer/Color codes from the builder.
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Aug 26, 2022 16:28
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After 4 years or so of just mulching my lawn clippings I realize I'm probably way past due to dethatch my yard. I have a riding mower so I like the idea of a pull behind model like this. Anyone have experience with these kind or recommend something else? I don't want to deal with extension cords for an electric with my yard size. I can rent gas models locally so I'm thinking that's my preferred second choice to something I can tow. This is for St Augustine grass in FL if it matters.
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Aug 26, 2022 17:09
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Final Blog Entry posted:After 4 years or so of just mulching my lawn clippings I realize I'm probably way past due to dethatch my yard. I have a riding mower so I like the idea of a pull behind model like this. Anyone have experience with these kind or recommend something else? I don't want to deal with extension cords for an electric with my yard size. I can rent gas models locally so I'm thinking that's my preferred second choice to something I can tow. This is for St Augustine grass in FL if it matters. That's gonna work fine for dealing with one or to resi lawns a year. It's no commercial grade run it for days at a time kinda thing, but you don't need that. Plus you can pick it up at a tractor supply - the shipping on crap like that is sometimes insane.
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Aug 26, 2022 17:12
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Motronic posted:That's gonna work fine for dealing with one or to resi lawns a year. It's no commercial grade run it for days at a time kinda thing, but you don't need that. Good deal, thanks. That's going to be one of my weekend projects in a couple of months when I don't have to mow every single weekend along with pressure washing, tree trimming, and all the other fun 1-2x/year outdoor chores I don't have time/energy for in the summer.
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Aug 26, 2022 17:48
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Final Blog Entry posted:After 4 years or so of just mulching my lawn clippings I realize I'm probably way past due to dethatch my yard. I have a riding mower so I like the idea of a pull behind model like this. Anyone have experience with these kind or recommend something else? I don't want to deal with extension cords for an electric with my yard size. I can rent gas models locally so I'm thinking that's my preferred second choice to something I can tow. This is for St Augustine grass in FL if it matters.
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Aug 26, 2022 18:28
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If you want to splurge a bit more there're options like the one below that attach to a sweeper so you don't need to pick up everything you're pulling out by hand. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09H9H2M3S I'm still kind of torn on mine, its definitely easier just dragging behind as you ride than the alternative but even with multiple passes it doesn't pull out the shockingly huge masses powered dethatchers do.
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Aug 27, 2022 07:05
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Elem7 posted:If you want to splurge a bit more there're options like the one below that attach to a sweeper so you don't need to pick up everything you're pulling out by hand. I saw that or one like it when I was searching around, that would be nice but just way more than I want to spend for something I'll use like once a year. Gonna grab the 40" tow behind, probably wait a bit and hope for a sale. If I get a wild hair in a few years maybe I'll rent a gas one to really get in there one time.
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Aug 27, 2022 13:21
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devicenull posted:Is a sealer like that going to help remedy etched spots in marble floor tiles? We stupidly put black marble in the bathroom, and any place where *any* liquid has sat for more then a few minutes will show etching. We did seal it when we put it in, but obviously not enough. Sorry, missed this. I think it depends on the material. When shopping for granite, we took a couple samples of the stone and tested them. I put a flooding coat of Bulletproof sealer on them and let them dry. Some stone was impervious to our red wine test and some just straight absorbed it, and obviously stained. I imagine it would have etched the same way. Once it's etched, it's pretty much there without significant work, but more sealer is better sealer, imo. Multiple coats, plenty of dry time in between.
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Aug 27, 2022 15:55
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Sorry, missed this. I think it depends on the material. When shopping for granite, we took a couple samples of the stone and tested them. I put a flooding coat of Bulletproof sealer on them and let them dry. Some stone was impervious to our red wine test and some just straight absorbed it, and obviously stained. I imagine it would have etched the same way. That's about what I was expecting. I'll give resealing them a shot, although I was never terribly optimistic about it fixing anything.
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Aug 27, 2022 19:04
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Well, I primed the house last weekend and only had a half gallon left over which I think is a big success. I had to travel for work this week so I couldn't get around to painting until today.  It's Sherwin Williams black of night in flat. It's wet right now so it looks glossy but it won't be. The swatch looks black but on the house in daylight it's more of a charcoal with a hint of blue. It's going on really well and much less overspray than the primer. I had to adjust the pressure setting quite a bit but I'm liking the color. The trim won't stay white either, it's going to be a darker black (tricorn black) to be exact. I think once everything is done, trim painted and the front door painted, new house numbers attached, new outdoor lights, it's going to look really good. Verman fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Aug 27, 2022 |
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Aug 27, 2022 21:21
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Verman posted:It's going on really well and much less overspray than the primer. I had to adjust the pressure setting quite a bit Oh my, yeah....I've painted with Sherwin uldra dark base before. It's very very dense and does not go on like any of their lighter stuff. And I don't mean just in consistency - a gallon of ultra dark base is noticeably heavier than light/white base. Looking nice.
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Aug 27, 2022 21:52
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Verman posted:Well, I primed the house last weekend and only had a half gallon left over which I think is a big success. I had to travel for work this week so I couldn't get around to painting until today.
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Aug 28, 2022 01:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I cant imagine living in a black house in my hot climate, but that will look really neat. What kind of sprayer are you using? Thankfully we're in Seattle and have a well shaded lot so it shouldn't be too bad. Plus our roof is light gray so that reflects a lot of heat. Just using a Graco x5 airless. There are much, much better sprayers but I'm honestly surprised how well it's going and how great the finish looks on the aluminum gutters. I've done the house in SketchUp to see what it will look like because I didn't want to be surprised after spending all this time and money. Charcoal is a gamble but I think with the mid century style it will look pretty good with slightly darker trim.
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Aug 28, 2022 01:52
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Is it ok using spray foam between the bottom of my exterior stucco wall and the foundation? Or could that cause problems later on? Such as with blocking any moisture that needs to drain out? I don’t mean blocking the weep screed holes, just about sealing the gap between the weep screed and the sill plate WhyteRyce fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 07:26
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Verman posted:Well, I primed the house last weekend and only had a half gallon left over which I think is a big success. I had to travel for work this week so I couldn't get around to painting until today. It looks fabulous! Can't wait to see the trim! I used MAB Seashore. Weighs a ton - loaded with solids. Color is called "5o'clock Shadow" and is a grey-blue (that my son sees as purple). It's nearly time to re-paint, and I have to pull the wood window trim & replace a fair bit of it. I used a roller, sideways - house is clad in asbestos shingle - and touched with a brush. Think I may go with a sprayer this time, though between the prep for overspray & the exhaustive hermetic cleaning the sprayer requires, it'll probably take as long as rolling it. WhyteRyce posted:Is it ok using spray foam between the bottom of my exterior stucco wall and the foundation? Or could that cause problems later on? Such as with blocking any moisture that needs to drain out? Are you experiencing a problem with it as-is? I loathe Great Stuff; it's difficult to handle uncured, impossible to clean unless you keep acetone & a rag right with you at all times, it's ugly as a hatful of assholes after it cures and nearly impossible to remove without a hand grenade. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 16:09
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PainterofCrap posted:I loathe Great Stuff; it's difficult to handle uncured, impossible to clean unless you keep acetone & a rag right with you at all times, it's ugly as a hatful of assholes after it cures and nearly impossible to remove without a hand grenade. And it turns that awful brown color where it's getting UV exposure and eventually gets flaky. Whatever that OP has going on the more likely correct answer is caulk. Or a stucco repair.
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Aug 28, 2022 16:17
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Don't have any actual issues other than just wanting to seal any potential gaps that lead into the house. I've used it before and know all the annoying to use stuff about it. But it's kind of hard to see and work in the area; I don't think I'd be able to see what I was doing with caulk much less actually get in there easily so I figured fire and forget expanding foam would do the job better. I actually started some areas but decided to stop when I realized I don't know if that'll cause problematic blockages
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Aug 28, 2022 16:40
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I was really curious to see how the paint dried so when I woke up this morning I took a look outside. First off, I'm really liking the color. I thought it would dominate everything but anything with color is really going to pop against it. It should be nice when we put in some ornamental grasses and plants around the house.   It contrasts well against the rock work and actually brings more attention to it which is nice. It's flat but there's still some residual sheen until it fully dries. I'm still very impressed by the quality of the finish. I decided to camouflage my cable box etc and it looks like a near factory coating.  Sherwin Williams also says this Duration exterior paint goes on in one coat and I never believe those statements but in this case, it's true. I'm still going to do a second coat but it's coverage is fantastic. I put it on over white primer and there's nothing showing through. Before buying this house last year, Behr paint was the nicest stuff I had ever used (spending maybe $15-20/gallon) for painting apartments, but between our interior and exterior painting projects using Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams I'll spend the extra for nice paint every time from now on. Verman fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 20:26
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Verman posted:I was really curious to see how the paint dried so when I woke up this morning I took a look outside. This looks fantastic and I wish I could see that house from my place so I could lovingly gaze upon it's aesthetic.
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Aug 28, 2022 21:00
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I need opinions on if I can bend/break code a little bit to make this work. I made the mistake of assuming anything ever with my house was correct and am now in a situation where a load bearing stud is in my way. I am trying to recess a box that overlaps with part of a stud because it's warped and bowing into the side of the wall cavity I need. The box is exactly spaced for a 16" on center stud cavity so there's no moving it left and right and the big hole has already been cut. So my thought is to notch the side of the 2x4 to get rid of the wood in the way. Everything I can find about notching studs assumes you're putting a pipe going across them, so it talks about notching the width, not the depth. However, it states that on a load bearing stud you can notch up to 25% of the stud, which on a 2x4 is a 7/8" notch. I think it makes sense that that would also apply to notching the depth because the important part is how many square inches of material is left. 25% of the depth of a 2x4 would equate to a 3/8" cut across the 3.5" depth of the stud. However, there is another complication. There is an old 5/8" hole in the middle of the stud where an old electrical wire used to run which fucks everything up even more. So my thinking is to notch exactly what I need out of the stud, which is somewhere between 1/8" to 3/8" out of the stud depending on the warp, and 3" out of the 3.5" depth of it, because that's all the box needs. The old electrical hole I already cut and glued in a piece of oak dowel to fill it in and hopefully add a little strength. Not taking into account the oak dowel filling the 5/8" hole, the best I can get is 3.72 square inches of material with the cutout. 3.94 square inches is the minimum based on a 25% notch of the material. So then the question is, does the dowel recover at least .22 square inches of material strength from the .94 inches of missing material from the 5/8" hole? Or am I thinking about this way too much.  e: It looks like the stud on the other side that I thought was straight also bows in slightly. So I could notch 1/8" out of that one, and get away with notching less out of the heavily warped one. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 21:27
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Verman posted:I was really curious to see how the paint dried so when I woke up this morning I took a look outside. Makes me want to paint my house in Black 3.0 
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Aug 28, 2022 21:39
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SpartanIvy posted:Or am I thinking about this way too much. Or too little. Why can't you jack this stud out of the way? Is there drywall on one or both sides? Like, what's preventing you from just physically moving this thing straighter? I've had to do this before with various things - a porta power is ideal, a bottle jack works.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:06
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Motronic posted:Or too little. Why can't you jack this stud out of the way? Is there drywall on one or both sides? Like, what's preventing you from just physically moving this thing straighter? I've had to do this before with various things - a porta power is ideal, a bottle jack works. That is not something I'd considered. There is sheetrock on both sides, but it's mostly behind cabinets on the other side so I'm not too afraid if the nail heads pop out from moving. I can shove a 2x4 above it to hopefully keep it spread apart after I remove the jack.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:15
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Okay that did not go very well. I heard a loud pop which I thought was sheetrock nails but after I removed the bottle jack I think was actually the stud cracking. It did give me all the clearance I need on the top half which is better! However, the lower part of the stud did not move much at all, despite that being where I had the bottle jack applying force. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 22:39
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You can also try cutting a 2x the length you need this to be wide and hammering it in to the bottom to spread it. It's hard to give specific advice without being there. Just some ideas of things that I've had work in the past.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:45
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Motronic posted:You can also try cutting a 2x the length you need this to be wide and hammering it in to the bottom to spread it. You're the man. I did this and just hammered the poo poo out of it until it wedged itself down far enough to get the clearance I need. Unfortunately I can't really get any toenails in it or anything but with the amount of force on it I don't think it needs them.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:58
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Congrats, another thread success story.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:59
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Hey guys. A couple weeks back I posted about the idea of running a hose into a pvc pipe and then pushing that under a driveway to create a conduit for low voltage wiring. I've been at it for a few days, and it's been miserable. Basically, my soil is extremely dense. Even shoveling it is challenging and exhausting. I've only been able to get a an inch or two every 15 or 20 minutes of digging away with the pipe, and then there's enough water that the trench is flooded so I stop. This isn't a viable solution as it it is today. Currently the end of the pipe that I'm digging with is 3/4 or 1/2" (I don't call at the moment) that's been cut to have a wedged tip. Then at the other end of the pipe, my hose is connected and pushing water in. (Side note: the best fit threaded pvc connector I could find is a 3/4" thread, but my hose is 5/8". What the hell.) The water runs through the pipe with no pressure, and I twist the pvc tip through the soil. As for alternatives, I've seen some people hook up pressure washers. I don't own one though, and I'd be concerned about that taking too much soil with it and creating a fault under my driveway. I'd love to just drill away with a bit and a power drill, but I haven't seen anything long and/or rigid enough that isn't also $200. Ideally there would be something I could put on the end of the pvc that would make digging through considerably more effective, but I'm unfamiliar with what options may exist, so I'm at a loss. Some sort of drill-bit style head that's got perforations for water to exit? Idk. What do you think folks. How would you dig through very hard soil, that's probably got rocks in your path, with a 10' pvc pipe?
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Aug 29, 2022 02:01
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*taps thread title*
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Aug 29, 2022 02:05
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devmd01 posted:*taps thread title*
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Aug 29, 2022 02:07
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The Wonder Weapon posted:What do you think folks. How would you dig through very hard soil, that's probably got rocks in your path, with a 10' pvc pipe? This isn't the right question. You need to ask how you would do it on X budget. Because I can tell you exactly how to do it but you're probably not gonna like the answer/cost. I can even giver you several options you're not gonna like. Every one of them involves equipment you don't have, and I'm not talking about a pressure washer. Maybe since you gave it a good try and that's not working it's time to think about what this is worth to you?
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Aug 29, 2022 02:08
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If your driveway isn't elevated from the ground on both sides I don't understand how you'd get a pipe flat under the driveway in the first place but it's a wild thing to read regardless.
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Aug 29, 2022 02:35
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