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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Achmed Jones posted:

i recently took the pedals off of my sons bike to get him some balance practice (he was doing training wheels, but couldn't quite get the balancing part).

i still have a chain looped to the frame on it, so i ordered a crappy chain tool. unless the $15 set i got from Amazon is actually decent, what do y'all recommend for bang-for-buck on that?

Also, Id love some recommendations on what to use for grease (like for the seat post), grease for the bearings, chain lube, etc. i know i could buy stuff from the bike shop, but id like to be a bit more frugal. i just have no idea what to use on a bike if it isn't labeled, and am too ignorant without a "just buy this" kind of instruction

thanks! i have no idea what im doing here.

You took the pedals off the bike? Did you mean training wheels? It's better to learn with the pedals on the bike...

For chain tools (assuming there's no masterlink kinda thing but from the sounds of it I'm guessing there isn't) whatever you got is probably fine. You got the pushy outy tool right?

Lubrication:
Seat Post: any grease is fine, less is more
Bearings: Any bearing grease or general purpose grease is fine
Chain lube: any cheap poo poo from amazon is honestly going to be fine at the level of bike I think we're talking about. Just try to get all the excess off the chain when you're done lubricating it.

This is assuming that you're dealing with a department store bike and not an actual serious bike, in which case I'd use white lithium grease for the seatpost, the bearings would be sealed, and the chain lube you'd pick up from your local bike shop and match to the conditions in your area (dry, wet, muddy, dusty).

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Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



no, i meant the pedals, crank, etc to turn it into a balance bike for a bit

re: grease and tools and stuff, thanks!

it's from a bike shop, but it's still a kids bike so no master link on the chain or anything. the brand is Batch

it's also worth saying that i'll be using the tools and stuff on my bike (that i just got, that im still figuring out). it's an REI cty 2.1 so not a walmart special but also not a super serious technical bike of any sort.

Achmed Jones fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Aug 23, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Achmed Jones posted:

no, i meant the pedals, crank, etc to turn it into a balance bike for a bit

re: grease and tools and stuff, thanks!

it's from a bike shop, but it's still a kids bike so no master link on the chain or anything. the brand is Batch

it's also worth saying that i'll be using the tools and stuff on my bike (that i just got, that im still figuring out). it's an REI cty 2.1 so not a walmart special but also not a super serious technical bike of any sort.

Ah okay cool, I guess if the kid is small enough you learn the balancing easier without pedals in the way. Sounds like a great childhood of learning to bike, good work.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Achmed Jones posted:

i recently took the pedals off of my sons bike to get him some balance practice (he was doing training wheels, but couldn't quite get the balancing part).

i still have a chain looped to the frame on it, so i ordered a crappy chain tool. unless the $15 set i got from Amazon is actually decent, what do y'all recommend for bang-for-buck on that?

Also, Id love some recommendations on what to use for grease (like for the seat post), grease for the bearings, chain lube, etc. i know i could buy stuff from the bike shop, but id like to be a bit more frugal. i just have no idea what to use on a bike if it isn't labeled, and am too ignorant without a "just buy this" kind of instruction

thanks! i have no idea what im doing here.
The park mini-chain tool is great for occasional use. Not very ergonomic, but good for the price and you can replace the driver pin when it starts to mushroom.

For grease, I use Super Lube at home. It is fine for bike stuff and most anything else around the house including kitchen gadgets.

For chain oil, again if you want something multipurpose I like Tri-Flo, or whatever 3in1 oil you can get. Otherwise get whatever that is chain specific. I personally use Bio Lube, because I make a huge mess sometimes and feel a little less bad about veggie oil contaminated waste water.

Occasionally I need something that is thicker than light oil but grease won't do. I use tenacious oil on freehubs and jockey wheel bushings. Gear oil might be a good substitute, but my 4oz bottle is lasting a decade so I have no need to try.

wilfredmerriweathr
Jul 11, 2005
I finally took the first step to modifying my garbage code r brakes that came on the otherwise awesome yt Capra.

I ordered some saints :whatup:

Codes keep requiring bleeds to keep them from going all the way to the bars, but within a few rides it's right back to terrible mushy feel and hitting the bars with the rear lever. I miss the Shimano brakefeel so much! I guess some people hate the responsiveness of Shimano, but I am 100% all about it.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Srams brakes with an "S" in the name work a good amount better, like guide/g2/code RS and RSC. My hei hei came with guide r brakes and I wound up just buying RSC levers which made a big difference. Still annoying how much brand new current brakes can suck.

And joke's on me I guess. Just ordered level ultimates for my hardtail that's not here yet to replace the Shimano brakes it comes with. Which use the not as good direct actuation linkage as the "R" series brakes.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

wilfredmerriweathr posted:

I finally took the first step to modifying my garbage code r brakes that came on the otherwise awesome yt Capra.

I ordered some saints :whatup:

Codes keep requiring bleeds to keep them from going all the way to the bars, but within a few rides it's right back to terrible mushy feel and hitting the bars with the rear lever. I miss the Shimano brakefeel so much! I guess some people hate the responsiveness of Shimano, but I am 100% all about it.


jamal posted:

Srams brakes with an "S" in the name work a good amount better, like guide/g2/code RS and RSC. My hei hei came with guide r brakes and I wound up just buying RSC levers which made a big difference. Still annoying how much brand new current brakes can suck.

And joke's on me I guess. Just ordered level ultimates for my hardtail that's not here yet to replace the Shimano brakes it comes with. Which use the not as good direct actuation linkage as the "R" series brakes.

For what it's worth I had guide RSC brakes and I found they were literally never good even when new and even after a bleed. Just no strength, like if I pulled the lever as hard as I could I wouldn't have been able to stop the front wheel while in motion. Barely would be able to stop the rear wheel. Went to Saints and found them much better but still wanted a little more power on the front, so went to a 220mm Galfer rotor. Brakes now feel fantastic and extremely strong.

e: I'll mention it again because I think it's really important when discussing this stuff, I'm 6'2" 220lbs and my bike is another 35lbs, so the brakes are stopping ~255lbs of weight. I never see rider weight referenced when talking about brakes and it feels funny - you wouldn't compare the brakes on a dump truck (rear end) with how they would perform on a small passenger car because the demands are much different.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Aug 23, 2022

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah I am on an XC bike on XC tires and am usually right around 160lbs, so the guide rsc with 180/160 rotors is plenty for me, even with a slightly more aggressive tire.

I hear good things about the code rsc. Friend is a pretty big guy on a pretty big bike and can go fast and likes his. He also has those mtx red pads and the new hs2 rotors.

jamal fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Aug 24, 2022

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



update: crummy chain tool set came, and it worked well enough to get little jones's chain off of what is now his pushbike

he starts first grade tomorrow, i bet by the end of this month he's ready to put the pedals back on! of course if he hates it i can just put the pedals back on with the training wheels too, im not gonna make him drill at a bike or whatever. either he likes it or he doesnt and we learned how to take the pedals/crank/etc out of a bike, how to use a chain tool, etc so im gonna chalk it up as a win even if he asks for his pedals+training wheels back tomorrow

wilfredmerriweathr
Jul 11, 2005
I'm also 6 foot 4 and 200 on an xxl aluminum Capra, so it's definitely not light.

Rear saint installed! Had to use a vacuum and some string to get the line routed as there's no internal sheaths in the al Capra, but it's all good to go.

Front code r is working fine for now so I'll probably use it til the end of the season.

Rear code r had one piston fully seized in the caliper, won't move no matter what, and another piston that seems to come out further and faster than the others no matter what. Gonna try to warranty it but sram won't warranty stuff unless you go to an authorized dealer so we'll see how that turns out. These are basically brand new brakes btw.

Just glad I have a functioning brake again, hitting deer valley this weekend (I hit it most weekends).

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

wilfredmerriweathr posted:

I'm also 6 foot 4 and 200 on an xxl aluminum Capra, so it's definitely not light.

Rear saint installed! Had to use a vacuum and some string to get the line routed as there's no internal sheaths in the al Capra, but it's all good to go.

Front code r is working fine for now so I'll probably use it til the end of the season.

Rear code r had one piston fully seized in the caliper, won't move no matter what, and another piston that seems to come out further and faster than the others no matter what. Gonna try to warranty it but sram won't warranty stuff unless you go to an authorized dealer so we'll see how that turns out. These are basically brand new brakes btw.

Just glad I have a functioning brake again, hitting deer valley this weekend (I hit it most weekends).

Maybe get some kind of wd40 or just oil on that piston perimeter to see if you can work it free- that's basically a useless brake.

wilfredmerriweathr
Jul 11, 2005
That's actually what I was doing when I realized the piston was frozen, cleaning and lubing the pistons. It's really, really stuck. I guess this is a thing with sram brakes that they are known for, apparently for a while there if you took your bike from a cold air conditioned room to the summer sun you'd get stuck pistons. That's what I was reading anyway.

Hopefully they warranty the brake because yeah, it's new and pretty much worthless.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

wilfredmerriweathr posted:

That's actually what I was doing when I realized the piston was frozen, cleaning and lubing the pistons. It's really, really stuck. I guess this is a thing with sram brakes that they are known for, apparently for a while there if you took your bike from a cold air conditioned room to the summer sun you'd get stuck pistons. That's what I was reading anyway.

Hopefully they warranty the brake because yeah, it's new and pretty much worthless.

I can't imagine the difference in the growth/shrink of aluminum/ceramic/whatever else is used for the pistons and the caliper is enough to bind them based on that little of a temperature change (think of the temps these components go through during DH use) but I've had a lot of issues with SRAM brakes myself.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
The sram issue was in the lever not the piston in the caliper.

wilfredmerriweathr
Jul 11, 2005
There was a lever recall, yes. I believe there is also a piston issue. See this pinkbike thread that I literally just found right now where someone has apparently the same issue as I do, but on last year's Capra (same brakes). I have one piston that seems to pop out and not retract and another one that seems to not pop out at all.

https://pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=229858

Fwiw I believe they use plastic pistons in the caliper itself. "Phenolic"

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

The big lever recall was quite awhile ago, like 2013* or so. The symptom there was lever-to-bar with no braking force, a very bad time. There was a more recent piston issue that is supposed to be fixed now (for new production brakes). Something to do with the jig/method used for installation of the pistons. The pistons could end up being installed slightly angled at the factory and they would lock up and fail to retract. I've heard you can fix it by forcing the piston back into the caliper and rebleeding, but mine (guide) was so locked up I gave up trying to do it. IIRC this particular thing usually shows up right away, not after a lot of use, so maybe it is yet another separate problem.

*might be misremembering the exact year, but it was more than a few years ago

taqueso fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Aug 27, 2022

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
It was present on guide brakes sold the generation before the g2 ones.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I had guide RSC brakes that came stock on a 2015 5010, they were totally fine until one of them locked up (lever, I believe) in 2020. SRAM replaced it under warranty.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
The tiny bolt that holds the derailleur hanger and female side of the through axle to the frame bent in transit recently. What's the name of this little guy so I can find a new one?



VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

spf3million posted:

The tiny bolt that holds the derailleur hanger and female side of the through axle to the frame bent in transit recently. What's the name of this little guy so I can find a new one?





Is that not a proprietary part? It looks proprietary to me.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
short bolt + washer from the hardware store should do the trick, it’s not structural at all it’s just to assist lining up the axel putting the wheel on

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Cheers guys thanks. It's off a 2018 Diamondback Haanjo so yeah likely proprietary. I sent DB a note asking for a replacement but I'll swing by the hardware store in the meantime. :tipshat:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Just took a look and crazy that diamondback doesn't have a storefront for parts.

Their phone number is 800-251-8435 for tech support I suggest giving them a shout.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
I was surprised too. They're closed today, left em a message. I found a small M4 bolt that seems to fit. It's a little wonky without that flat unthreaded part because it kind of holds the female axle bit tight. I have to hold that part in place until the axle threads bite then it snugs up.

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

spf3million posted:

I was surprised too. They're closed today, left em a message. I found a small M4 bolt that seems to fit. It's a little wonky without that flat unthreaded part because it kind of holds the female axle bit tight. I have to hold that part in place until the axle threads bite then it snugs up.

That kind of fastener is called a shoulder screw. That looks like a pretty short shoulder (possibly custom) but a quick look at McMaster Carr website shows M4 shoulder screws with a 2 or 3 mm long shoulder (at 5mm diameter) are available. If you have the bent piece to measure, you might find the proper size replacement there.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

tylertfb posted:

That kind of fastener is called a shoulder screw. That looks like a pretty short shoulder (possibly custom) but a quick look at McMaster Carr website shows M4 shoulder screws with a 2 or 3 mm long shoulder (at 5mm diameter) are available. If you have the bent piece to measure, you might find the proper size replacement there.

Thanks for this. Unfortunately no exact matches on McMaster or the dozen or so other small parts websites I found. M4-0.7, 3mm shoulder length, 5mm shoulder diameter, 10mm thread length, 7mm head diameter, 4mm head height. I might try a couple with various differences in shoulder length, head diameter, etc to see if they fit.
edit: ships in 4-7 weeks

Diamondback got back to me and they don't sell just the bolt. I'd have to buy a new hanger too that clocks in at $38 after shipping.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Could you get a sleeve of the right ID/OD and file it down to length?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man
Reminder that

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



TobinHatesYou posted:

Reminder that

Smh why wouldn’t my sealant plug this then??


Punctured it on an awful rocky gravel descent, that’s an 8mm Allen key

Cat Ass Trophy
Jul 24, 2007
I can do twice the work in half the time

TobinHatesYou posted:

Reminder that road tubeless owns.

Until it doesn't.

I use road tubeless.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Cat rear end Trophy posted:

Until it doesn't.

I use road tubeless.

Until it doesn’t would absolutely gently caress up a non-tubeless tire too.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

e.pilot posted:

Until it doesn’t would absolutely gently caress up a non-tubeless tire too.

Eh. The vast majority of the flats that didn't seal I've had with road tubeless would have been equally fine with tubes.

Because it's always due to me forgetting how long ago I put sealant in the drat tire.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man
Hmm, I've had three flats this year. One on Corsa Speeds, one on Michelin Power Cups and one on GP5K S TRs. DynaPlugs worked every single time. The Corsa Speed puncture happened today, required two DynaPlugs, but it's sitting pretty in my garage right now at 105psi (just to see if it will hold.)

Here is your DynaPlug tar monster. The nice thing about Corsa Speeds is they only last for 1000mi, so there's no way your sealant will dry out before you toss your tires.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 3, 2022

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

TobinHatesYou posted:

. The nice thing about Corsa Speeds is they only last for 1000mi, so there's no way your sealant will dry out before you toss your tires.


lol

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

TobinHatesYou posted:

The nice thing about Corsa Speeds is they only last for 1000mi, so there's no way your sealant will dry out before you toss your tires.


You need more bikes

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

bicievino posted:

You need more bikes

Hmm, yes.

Though if I split time evenly between four bikes, each with their own Corsa Speeds, that's still less than 3 months worth of tires.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

TobinHatesYou posted:

Hmm, yes.

Though if I split time evenly between four bikes, each with their own Corsa Speeds, that's still only 3 months worth of tires.

bicievino posted:

You need more bikes

This does make me curious about how much and how evenly I've split my time/mileage this year.

Also your mileage is bangin'.

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



i put the pedals back on little jones's bike, because he asked me to

i had a new stem put into my bike. it is much more comfortable now. i still dont know how to do that myself. the guy at REI said that I could do it at home, but something-something-the-fork-might-fall-out so I had them do it since installation's free for your first year or whatever

i bought some lithium grease, a bottom bracket tool, and a pedal wrench so i can make sure everything on little jones's bike is tightened down. i was using channel-locks on his pedals before and it worked fine, but better safe than sorry. same re: bottom bracket (i used a screwdriver, but this'll let me make sure it's safe)

most importantly, i bought this for my bike

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



bicievino posted:

This does make me curious about how much and how evenly I've split my time/mileage this year.

Also your mileage is bangin'.

Statshunters has that info if you want it, also elevation, average speed, moving time, and elapsed time by bike:



Unspecified is anything without a bike associated and also any activity where the bike is retired

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VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.
I'd like to build a decent (mechanical) 1x12 setup on a bike with a 135mm rear spacing.

Thinking of a 10-52 SRAM Cassette and a 40t chainring.

Does that make sense? Will that work on a typical gravel 650B wheel?

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