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Jonny Nox posted:Oh, yeah. Don’t watch the video, it’s terrible. I was just aware that Slap Chop was a name utubers used for some kind of technique, and that was the first result that answered the question without 20 minutes of shilling and preamble. The odd thing is, that particular technique has been around forever (I first encountered it in a painting tutorial back in like 2013-2014, in Privateer Press' magazine that was their version of White Dwarf, but I know it's been around even longer than that). And even when contrast paints came out, people were like "yeah just do a zenithal prime to help Contrast paints get a deeper shade and better highlight", but apparently someone thought that just wasn't buzzword-y enough for YouTube vids
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Aug 28, 2022 17:06
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I just liked the name and it's something I haven't tried yet 💀
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Aug 28, 2022 18:20
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Sydney Bottocks posted:The odd thing is, that particular technique has been around forever (I first encountered it in a painting tutorial back in like 2013-2014, in Privateer Press' magazine that was their version of White Dwarf, but I know it's been around even longer than that). And even when contrast paints came out, people were like "yeah just do a zenithal prime to help Contrast paints get a deeper shade and better highlight", but apparently someone thought that just wasn't buzzword-y enough for YouTube vids If the zenithal is already giving you shading, wouldn't any paint thinned enough to be transparent work? I don't understand everyone's obsession with Contrast Paints suddenly
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Aug 28, 2022 20:00
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Yes, any sufficiently thinned paint should work. Contrast paints are formulated to be thin without breaking so it saves a lot of people time and headaches. It's all just imitating oil painting anyway.
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Aug 28, 2022 20:12
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Beto Male posted:If the zenithal is already giving you shading, wouldn't any paint thinned enough to be transparent work? I don't understand everyone's obsession with Contrast Paints suddenly Have you tried contrast paints versus really thinned down regular acrylics?
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Aug 28, 2022 20:13
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Beto Male posted:If the zenithal is already giving you shading, wouldn't any paint thinned enough to be transparent work? I don't understand everyone's obsession with Contrast Paints suddenly No, it doesn’t work that way. Traditional paints use opaque pigments, watering them down to the point of translucency also reduces the amount of colour and if you add multiple coats to get the colour correct then you’ve just painted traditionally and won’t get any shading. You need translucent, liquid pigment for underpainting to work properly, which eliminates standard miniature paints. Contrast and speed paints are leading to a resurgence in the space because they offer a lot more colour range and have the added bonus of bringing a little transition/shade to the party on their own to boost the effect of the underpainting. But yeah this technique isn’t new, I was painting Battletech minis by drybrushing white over a black undercoat and then using inks to tint them to the desired colour back in 2001.
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Aug 28, 2022 20:21
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Beto Male posted:If the zenithal is already giving you shading, wouldn't any paint thinned enough to be transparent work? I don't understand everyone's obsession with Contrast Paints suddenly to my understanding, glaze medium works differently than simply adding medium (like water, or actual medium) so for contrast paints, they're just slightly thicker glazes, and you can water them down to make a wash. edit: I'm making progress on what I think I want the color scheme and such to be but I was trying to only do this with contrast paints, and I think there are simply too small of details to use that on this model, and I almost think there's not enough variety in colors. I know I can use medium to lighten it, but what would I use to darken it without just creating brown... GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Aug 28, 2022 |
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Aug 28, 2022 20:28
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I’m trying to do a 90s themed/style Blood Bowl team, and my first couple of test models kinda came out okay? Sculpts are from Meiko miniatures, and it’s been just a shitload of edge highlighting, glazing, and then point highlights for anything metallic, and then the ol’ GW classic base/shade/highlight/blend with tons of glazes as McVey once taught.   First of two Wight Blitzers. One of my initial test batch minis, partially because it would let me test out if the armor technique was something I could actually pull off.  Elf Zombie, clearly a Wardancer that was handled in the appropriate fashion. I think I need to get the orange in the hair more intense, but not sure how to do that. Obviously needs a lot of cleanup work to get the style down, so any recommendations are super appreciated. Finding good guides or recommendations has been tricky thanks to a bunch of blogs experiencing picture rot, my hatred of video tutorials, and a total inability to navigate Instagram. Yes, bases will be appropriately Goblin Green.
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Aug 28, 2022 23:24
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Beto Male posted:I don't understand everyone's obsession with Contrast Paints suddenly Others have already addressed why thinned down paints aren't the same as Contrast paints, so I'll just touch on the latter part of your post here. A lot of people want to play with a halfway decently painted army, but don't have the time or patience to do the traditional process of basecoat+shade+highlight. Contrast achieves this to a "good enough" standard for a lot of people who would have otherwise not played or played with an unpainted army. For people (like most of us ITT, I'd wager) who are experienced mini painters, Contrast (and Speedpaints or whatever other Contrast competitor you might prefer) give us another tool in the toolbox for use on minis, often to take a quick shortcut when painting minis that aren't meant to be display pieces. Faces, hair, leather pouches, etc. are all easily and quickly done with Contrast-type paints.
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Aug 28, 2022 23:37
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Wight Blitzer was my favourite undead CNN anchor
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Aug 28, 2022 23:44
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My Spirit Otter posted:I went a lil further based on this and im starting to really dig it Hell yeah. I want our knights to meet up and give each other high fives.  Spanish Manlove posted:I don't like my method being named that, if anything I like "poor man's zenithal" The technique has a series of names on a scale of artsy-fartsy: grisaille --- value sketching --- zenithal --- slap chop They're all similar in getting the shades/highlights in place in a greyscale (or similar) before applying color tint. It works quite well. As for why bother with contrasts, I recently got into mini painting after bouncing off of it hard like 15 years ago. Contrasts gave me a tool to be able to produce tabletop worthy models with a fraction of the time/skill I'd need to get similar results with traditional painting styles. This (a) let me have a painted, playable army very quickly and (b) gave me a foundation to work off of. I know I can get "good enough" results for what I need, so I'm less worried about trying out different techinques and seeing how I can apply them. A quick contrast paint job that gets touched up with edge highlighting? Ta-da, instant improvement and a new skill has been learned. I've since started messing around with (admittedly baby) techniques like dry brushing, oil wash/panel lining, volumetric highlights, weathering, etc. Then there are the people who use contrasts as a very fancy tool in their toolbelt (ex: Warhipster and Juan Hidalgo on YouTube) to produce display level pieces while working primarily with contrast paints.
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Aug 28, 2022 23:56
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What is the secret to actually gap-filling with green stuff? I watched videos that lied to me and said "just make a little rope of it, use a wetted silicone clay shaper to mush it in place!". However, the smallest rope I can make is approximately 5x wider than the gaps, and the last thing on earth it wants to stick to is the model. I tried with nitrile glove, without, etc. What a mess! 
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Aug 29, 2022 00:02
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Use something like Tamiya Putty instead and have a plan for smoothing out or sanding the excess putty.
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Aug 29, 2022 00:09
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Koopa Kid posted:No, it doesn’t work that way. Traditional paints use opaque pigments, watering them down to the point of translucency also reduces the amount of colour and if you add multiple coats to get the colour correct then you’ve just painted traditionally and won’t get any shading. I was under the impression that zenithal comes through even with opaque paints, you just need to thin them down to mostly medium (which I have heard described as a glaze) to allow it to show. Building up layers is required but "Thin Ur Paints", and all that. I can see why a semi-transparent paint would be more effective at it. Presumably you could find transparent inks for a contrast-like effect. Some of the new contrast paints really seem like just inks to me honestly. They dont even pretend to shade the recesses.
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Aug 29, 2022 00:32
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Mishap with some primer thanks to sculpting material related issues. (I have my doubts the thread can solve those, so I'm sorting it out myself.) I've seen mention that Simple Green has changed its formula and is less effective for miniatures now. What's my best option that's safe to use on greenstuff? Primer coat is incomplete and light in most places so I don't need something especially heavy, but any damage to the greenstuff at all rules it out as an option, basically everything I'll be stripping now and in the future uses it in important locations.
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Aug 29, 2022 00:33
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Well, the green wasn't the color I wanted, I wanted something like Millitarum Green but that doesn't exist on the Speedpaint line, and I'm not particularly thrilled about buying more citadel paint, so now I have to figure out how to make my current collection more like that color... At least one is done...
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Aug 29, 2022 00:38
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Beto Male posted:Some of the new contrast paints really seem like just inks to me honestly. They dont even pretend to shade the recesses. To be fair, they aren't. The yellows and reds and the new black (Black Legion, I think it's called) seem to be designed more to do a single, very opaque, coat in just a layer or two. Which, given how translucent the first two types of colors traditionally are, would make painting armies that are primarily red or yellow super fast and easy without having to worry about thinning your paints (and from what I've heard, will still give the "Contrast" effect when applied over a zenithal prime). Not really sure what the purpose of the new black color is, it definitely doesn't do the Contrast effect from what I've seen. Maybe people just wanted a black basecoat that could be applied quickly without thinning? Also everyone should definitely check out Warhipster's YT channel, he does some absolutely outstanding stuff with Contrast paints.
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Aug 29, 2022 00:53
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Aranan posted:Hell yeah. I want our knights to meet up and give each other high fives. Nah man, i dont want to have to smash your's in a jealous rage!
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Aug 29, 2022 01:00
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Aranan posted:Hell yeah. I want our knights to meet up and give each other high fives. Funny enough I painted up a knight pilot on foot in the similarly looking House Orhlacc colors earlier this year.  Been wanting to do an Armiger, or one of the AT Knights/Titans in the same color scheme at some point.
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Aug 29, 2022 01:08
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bunch of goons with good taste in colours itt
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Aug 29, 2022 01:14
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I had no idea there was an imperial knight house in the exact colors I used. Oops!Lumpy posted:What is the secret to actually gap-filling with green stuff? I watched videos that lied to me and said "just make a little rope of it, use a wetted silicone clay shaper to mush it in place!". However, the smallest rope I can make is approximately 5x wider than the gaps, and the last thing on earth it wants to stick to is the model. I tried with nitrile glove, without, etc. What a mess! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH8xp0BJwQo If you want to use a putty, I'd suggest the Vallejo plastic putty. I had the Tamiya stuff before, but (a) it smells horrendous and (b) the Vallejo one comes with a narrow applicator tip which makes using it so much easier.
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Aug 29, 2022 01:22
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Aranan posted:I had no idea there was an imperial knight house in the exact colors I used. Oops! Oh that's fine, they're just a minor mention in an Adeptus Titanicus book and I only found them because I was digging around for something non-standard to paint the pilot in.
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Aug 29, 2022 01:34
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Lumpy posted:What is the secret to actually gap-filling with green stuff? I watched videos that lied to me and said "just make a little rope of it, use a wetted silicone clay shaper to mush it in place!". However, the smallest rope I can make is approximately 5x wider than the gaps, and the last thing on earth it wants to stick to is the model. I tried with nitrile glove, without, etc. What a mess! Use fresh greenstuff if you’re going to use it - it can and does go stale. Also, use Milliput instead and thin it down with water. White superfine is great, dries well, and is generally pretty sticky. If you absolutely need to use GS: 60/40 yellow/blue, mix thoroughly by twisting it together until you have a nice green, and then while it’s freshly mixed, pull out slowly and let it form more of a thread. Then press it into the gap, and also don’t wet the colorshaper because the GS will already not stick to the silicone, and by wetting the tool you’re making it harder on yourself. Here’s my tool rhyme for classes: If it’s metal, vaseline Silicone, you keep it clean Wood or plastic, get it wet And wash when done, don’t forget!
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Aug 29, 2022 01:49
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Hedningen posted:Here’s my tool rhyme for classes: So after three baths for my last batch of minis with greenstuff work, with dish soap and an electric toothbrush each time to pick up and remove the residue, before even trying to put primer on them: how the hell do you get the vaseline residue off, because all 5 models still had the primer gently caress up and bead up off the surface immediately on contact from residue. There is no more cleaning it I can do without upgrading to poo poo that will damage the greenstuff (and the plastic, for that matter). That's the root of the primer fuckups I just asked about paint stripper suggestions for, to link these two comments together. Nobody else addresses this and nobody I've asked who directly told me to use vaseline will even respond, let alone give an actual answer.
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Aug 29, 2022 02:01
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SkyeAuroline posted:So after three baths for my last batch of minis with greenstuff work, with dish soap and an electric toothbrush each time to pick up and remove the residue, before even trying to put primer on them: how the hell do you get the vaseline residue off, because all 5 models still had the primer gently caress up and bead up off the surface immediately on contact from residue. There is no more cleaning it I can do without upgrading to poo poo that will damage the greenstuff (and the plastic, for that matter). That's the root of the primer fuckups I just asked about paint stripper suggestions for, to link these two comments together. Nobody else addresses this and nobody I've asked who directly told me to use vaseline will even respond, let alone give an actual answer. dish soap and a toothbrush should take any oil off of the mini
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Aug 29, 2022 02:04
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My Spirit Otter posted:dish soap and a toothbrush should take any oil off of the mini It didn't. Not even close. Even the plastic that would have had the barest contact with vaseline when my tool slipped once, that I had wiped up immediately on contact, had enough residue after 3 rounds with the soap and toothbrush that no paint stuck to 2/3rds of a limb. e: \/\/\/ yeah, brake cleaner is the next strongest thing that's been suggested, and it's more likely to gently caress up the minis (or me) than I'm comfortable with for what should be a completely nonexistent problem. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Aug 29, 2022 |
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Aug 29, 2022 02:07
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vaseline is petroleum based so any degreaser should take it off. i dont know what else to suggest, except brake cleaner 
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Aug 29, 2022 02:08
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Beto Male posted:I was under the impression that zenithal comes through even with opaque paints, you just need to thin them down to mostly medium (which I have heard described as a glaze) to allow it to show. Building up layers is required but "Thin Ur Paints", and all that. I can see why a semi-transparent paint would be more effective at it. Presumably you could find transparent inks for a contrast-like effect. Glazing as a technique is about gradually building up colour on top of another colour, you won’t see people try to glaze over a grayscale transition because the point of glazing is to make its own transition as each successive layer of glaze makes the colour more and more opaque. If you thin down a regular paint enough a zenithal undercoat will show through, sure, but the pigment will flatten out the transition the more you use and you’ll never achieve a saturated colour without using enough to cover it up entirely.
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Aug 29, 2022 02:52
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I swear by Testors Easy Lift Off for removing things from plastic models. In about 15 minutes paint and primer is coming off in sheets. It ought to get the vaseline while its at it.
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Aug 29, 2022 02:54
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SkyeAuroline posted:So after three baths for my last batch of minis with greenstuff work, with dish soap and an electric toothbrush each time to pick up and remove the residue, before even trying to put primer on them: how the hell do you get the vaseline residue off, because all 5 models still had the primer gently caress up and bead up off the surface immediately on contact from residue. There is no more cleaning it I can do without upgrading to poo poo that will damage the greenstuff (and the plastic, for that matter). That's the root of the primer fuckups I just asked about paint stripper suggestions for, to link these two comments together. Nobody else addresses this and nobody I've asked who directly told me to use vaseline will even respond, let alone give an actual answer. I use IPA to remove it, 91%. I keep it in a refillable alcohol ink pen with a brush tip, and then wipe things down with a little q tip when I’m finishing up. Molotov makes some nice empty brush pens, plus they let you see how much liquid is in them. I’ve got two - one for epoxy putties and one for polyclays to avoid cross-contamination. Additionally, when using vaseline on tools, I use a three-step process: first, small blob on the top of my left hand - basically enough to make the skin shiny. Then, lightly drag the tool on that surface, and finally wipe it off right next to that on clean skin. It’s basically “use a super-light touch of lubricant” because you want the absolute minimum to get your tools moving slowly to cut down on cleanup requirements. Also, gently caress anyone who refuses to explain sculpting techniques. Half the reason it’s seen as so tricky is that people treat it like a dark art, and explaining the most effective tools and basic techniques is part of how we keep this niche-as-gently caress skill from dying out.
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Aug 29, 2022 02:59
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Hedningen posted:I use IPA to remove it, 91%. I keep it in a refillable alcohol ink pen with a brush tip, and then wipe things down with a little q tip when I’m finishing up. Molotov makes some nice empty brush pens, plus they let you see how much liquid is in them. I’ve got two - one for epoxy putties and one for polyclays to avoid cross-contamination. Thank you. I've got this written down for the next batch I do. Couple of heads with sculpted hair I might need to clean up that way too, we'll see - they seemed to dry without any residue, but I don't have their bodies yet so didn't bother with priming.
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Aug 29, 2022 03:05
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I like contrast paints because there is something about painting the same area repeatedly to get smooth, even coverage that just breaks my will to live. I'm trying to find a contrast method for the original tau scheme but not having much luck, I seem to remember it being more orange-brown than yellow-brown. The aggro dunes contrast looks like sickly baby diarrhoea, the other browns are too dark. I found a very nice mix of Snakebite & gryphhound thinned that looks great but is the most finicky contrast mix ever. Every single mix a noticeably new shade that stands out from the last.
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Aug 29, 2022 03:39
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You can actually glaze with thin paints over greyscale work, ask me how I know. By watching Vince V do exactly that. Also yeah I tried it myself it works fine.
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Aug 29, 2022 05:04
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Eediot Jedi posted:I'm trying to find a contrast method for the original tau scheme but not having much luck, I seem to remember it being more orange-brown than yellow-brown.  I'd probably try whatever is the line's yellow ochre over flat brown. Siivola fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Aug 29, 2022 |
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Aug 29, 2022 05:20
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Have you tried Aggaros Dunes? Sounds like I'm suggesting Progressive Trance instead of contrast paint.
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Aug 29, 2022 05:33
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Siivola posted:I don't really know the Contrast range but I found the original scheme if that helps at all: Yeah my memory is lying, I have their codex from 2005 and while a few photos look like I remember, more saturated orange, but most look like that. I haven't tried the other undercoats, they were a test with the new white scar (which is loving amazing for a white spray can undercoat). E: lol god I love goblin green bases AndyElusive posted:Have you tried Aggaros Dunes? Yep, and it literally looks like poo poo (from a white undercoat). I should try it over wraithbone or equiv, maybe that then a sepia or orange wash would get me there. I am annoyed that my mix is exactly what I wanted, but so touchy it needs atomic precision.  I mix contrasts all the time and never saw anything like this.
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Aug 29, 2022 09:05
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Just a couple sanity checks: 1) You're shaking the crap out of them both before making your own mix? 2) Did you try thinning one of the darker browns with contrast medium? That should lighten the coverage and might help you hit your target color. 3) Have you tried bottling a larger batch of the mix to keep the same consistency?
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Aug 29, 2022 13:43
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Eediot Jedi posted:Yep, and it literally looks like poo poo (from a white undercoat). I should try it over wraithbone or equiv, maybe that then a sepia or orange wash would get me there. Try applying a second layer of Aggaros Dunes over the first layer? A lot of contrast paints darken up nicely when you do that. Weird as it sounds, you might also consider Fyreslayer Flesh.
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Aug 29, 2022 14:07
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A lot of folks say that most spray paint is good enough, but I got a big can of white rustoleum primer and didn't think it was nearly as nice as the really expensive sprays. So I was pretty disappointed. BUT! I think I found a good spray paint that is still not too expensive. Behr Premium Spray paint seems to work really well. "Lunar Surface" is the light grey/off-white that corax white was, so if you are looking for something close to that, it might be worth checking out. They are at home depot. They are 8 dollars a can, so still relatively inexpensive.
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Aug 29, 2022 21:02
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Lumpy posted:What is the secret to actually gap-filling with green stuff? I watched videos that lied to me and said "just make a little rope of it, use a wetted silicone clay shaper to mush it in place!". However, the smallest rope I can make is approximately 5x wider than the gaps, and the last thing on earth it wants to stick to is the model. I tried with nitrile glove, without, etc. What a mess! The secret is to use super glue and baking soda instead
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Aug 29, 2022 21:02
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