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Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

KonMari DeathMetal posted:

I love this. As a total novice how would someone even go about designing something like it?

Just draw and color some shapes on paper? Declare YOLO and just wing it entirely?

There wasn't much to the design. It was basically just that I'd have four rectangles based on the wall I wanted it to go on (45"x18" for the horizontal ones and 22"x37" for the tall ones IIRC, with a one inch gap between them), that I would plan to have each one push into the next one (clockwise) to break up the lines, and that I was going to make one of them out of long/thin pieces of wood, one from fatter rectangles and squares, one triangles, and one something else I hadn't decided on yet. I guess the other designed element is the wood selected, though that was mostly dictated by what I had scrap of in my bins (I did pick up a small chunk of padauk and another of purpleheart for some color).

The rest of it was just winging it. I taped out the appropriate dimensions on my work surface and set up another big table on some sawhorses so I could lay out all of the scrap I had available and just hosed around.

For the two ones using regularly shaped wood it's really easy to try poo poo and see if you like it before you cut it to fit exactly how you want. The long one ended up with a ~1/4" border between the pieces because I had broken down a bunch of mahogany tongue and groove and ended up with a pile of tongues that I thought would be fun for something.

For the triangle one I just pre cut a bunch of triangles in different sizes (dictated by the dimensions of the stock since they're all 45°). The main twisty thing on the one made of wedges I also went at by cutting a bunch of wedges at two or three different angles and fitting them together until I liked it. For the circles there was a bit more figuring out since I selected the angle and length of the wedges based on how much wood I had to work with.


tracecomplete posted:

It's not the easiest solution (the easiest solution I can think of would be to cut off the end and wire on a better plug, and also make sure your outlets are new enough) but, as I've mentioned elsewhere, but for almost all of my tools, I cut the cord off, all but 3-4" of it. Then I put an L5-20P locking plug on the end of it so I can plug it into one of the bunch of L5-20R cables in my shop (normal 3-prong end at the wall) instead of dragging cords around, especially ones that come with cheaper tools.

Yeah, I think I'm just going to replace the plug end. It slides right out of brand new outlets and old ones alike, just seems to be a lovely plug. My shop is a basement and after I added a handful I'm never more than a couple feet from an outlet so I'm not sure it'd be worth it even though not having to deal with rewrapping the cords after I use stuff does sound appealing.

NomNomNom posted:

You could try pinching the prongs toward each other. Works for me. Also try a different wall outlet, the loose one might be worn out.

That's the first thing I tried but it's still sloppy as gently caress. Never seen anything like it.

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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Just took delivery of a boatload of vietnamese birch plywood


Begun, the cubby project has

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Did some fine carpentry and made a roller stand out of free materials: roller from a treadmill I scalped, pine from an ikea bed frame that was on the curb.



Ain't pretty but it's sturdy and level with my table saw (within the tolerance of my very unflat floor)

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Here's a real quick mini project I threw together last night. Used a stick that fell off our giant oak tree and some scraps of chestnut to make a little stand for these air plants.



I was hoping I could find a easy to way just peel the bark off the oak stick but I ended up having to go at it with a spokeshave.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

NomNomNom posted:

Did some fine carpentry and made a roller stand out of free materials: roller from a treadmill I scalped, pine from an ikea bed frame that was on the curb.



Ain't pretty but it's sturdy and level with my table saw (within the tolerance of my very unflat floor)

Nice.

I wonder what percentage of flip-top stands are holding the Ridgid belt/spindle sander and the DeWalt 735. Judging from the internet, 98%, at least.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Elder Postsman posted:

Here's a real quick mini project I threw together last night. Used a stick that fell off our giant oak tree and some scraps of chestnut to make a little stand for these air plants.



I was hoping I could find a easy to way just peel the bark off the oak stick but I ended up having to go at it with a spokeshave.

This is super elegant, I love it. Did you just eyeball the angle of the holes in the planks?

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

NomNomNom posted:

This is super elegant, I love it. Did you just eyeball the angle of the holes in the planks?

Thanks. Yeah, just eyeballed the angles. The top one I did a sort of mortise and tenon thing so it doesn't go all the way through.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I made a wooden dust pan.



Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Wallet posted:

loving with some shapes and dis'n'dat for the big empty wall above my bed.



:shrug:

drat, you're good. Those are beautiful.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Meow Meow Meow posted:

I made a wooden dust pan.





I wish I could make these pictures the thread title

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I made a wooden dust pan.





Why is your dustbin prettier than anything in my house?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Bondematt posted:

Why is your dustbin prettier than anything in my house?

I mean, take a look at their workshop furniture. Wow!

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bondematt posted:

Why is your dustbin prettier than anything in my house?

Hahaha...

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

SimonSays posted:

I mean, take a look at their workshop furniture. Wow!

There seems to be two approaches to shop furniture:

"I might as well experiment with some new techniques I've been wanting to try, if it's not perfect it's just shop furniture and I'll learn what I did wrong"

and

"I've got some old OSB and a couple 2x4s I can rip down and I need to get this loving thing off the floor"

I am (currently) in the second camp

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I needed some outfeed/infeed supports so I threw together some little things that clamp to my sawhorses at the right height. I slapped some packing tape on there so things would slide over the surface easily; that worked fine for the first use, but the next time I pulled them out the packing tape was already peeling up. Is there some kind of simple coating I can put on there to keep it low-friction that won't just scrape off when I drag bits of wood over it repeatedly? I'm guessing the answer is no, and that's why people use rollers? I guess I could remake the tops out of some scrap plexiglass I have around.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I made a wooden dust pan.





This is bizarre and amazing. You could hang it on a wall with a plaque, except you'd only be able to see one side. How does one cut a spiral out of wood and have it actually fit together, anyway?

more falafel please posted:

There seems to be two approaches to shop furniture:

I do both pretty often: try new techniques but with cheap poo poo materials.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Sep 1, 2022

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

more falafel please posted:

There seems to be two approaches to shop furniture:

"I might as well experiment with some new techniques I've been wanting to try, if it's not perfect it's just shop furniture and I'll learn what I did wrong"

and

"I've got some old OSB and a couple 2x4s I can rip down and I need to get this loving thing off the floor"

I am (currently) in the second camp

Thanks everyone, loving the thread title.

I take both approaches, really depends on my mood at the time, my clamp rack is made out of old melamine shelving I took out of my closet so my shop is not some utopia of nice stuff. Although I will say it is nice and a bit inspiring to have nice shop furniture, it inspires me to continue building nice things.


Wallet posted:


This is bizarre and amazing. You could hang it on a wall with a plaque, except you'd only be able to see one side. How does one cut a spiral out of wood and have it actually fit together, anyway?


Thanks, it's done via marquetry techniques. The spiral is made up of wood veneers, they're thin enough to cut through multiple pieces at the same time and because they're cut at the same time they fit together perfectly.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Meow Meow Meow posted:

Thanks, it's done via marquetry techniques. The spiral is made up of wood veneers, they're thin enough to cut through multiple pieces at the same time and because they're cut at the same time they fit together perfectly.

I do suppose that makes more sense than the nonsense I was imagining with flush trim bits and a lot of swearing.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


babby's first systainer:

DominoXL. I didn't have a ton of time to fool around with it, but I can already tell it is going to change the way I work in several areas. The little button stops on the front work really well and make face frames/doors super easy. I'm sure there's a whole youtube rabbithole of ways to use the thing that I haven't thought of yet. The more I read and think about it, round loose tenons make all kinds of sense and there's a reason I can't find bits or parts for my hollow chisel mortiser.

I was able to make my own tenon stock in about about 5 minutes and it fit really well, so that was good news. I really didn't want to pay for tenon stock, much less keep enough around to have what I need, when I need it.

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
Of the festool lineup, the domino (XL) is definitely the thing I feel is most worth the money, especially in a production environment. It’s not foolproof, but goddamn it makes things easy, especially if you’re the kind of person who feels like they waste a bunch of time overthinking joinery unproductively. The compatible knockdown hardware they sell is also pretty great, if pricey. The sander/vacuum ecosystem is also worth considering if you’re doing finish work, but there’s plenty of alternatives in that price range (Mirka et al) unlike the domino.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Quick non-scientific destructive test of the little sample I did yesterday:

Most notably, the natural bond of wood/wood failed before the joint or glue failed. Side grain-end grain glue joints aren't nothing. You can see some places where the tenon/mortise glue joint seems to have pulled apart. Glue only dried about 16 hours so that may be part of it, but I'll try making my next tenon stock a hair thicker. I think the official festool domino tenons have a pattern pressed into them much like a biscuit, which makes them expand when they get wet with glue. I don't think I can do that myself, but this certainly as good a fit as any tenon I would cut in the shop myself.

I'm a bit surprised the tenon broke before the short end grain between the mortise and end of the piece blew out. That's how I would expect a square mortise and tenon to fail in that location. Rounded tenons are supposed to be stronger in that regard, and I guess they are!

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I think the official festool domino tenons have a pattern pressed into them much like a biscuit, which makes them expand when they get wet with glue. I don't think I can do that myself, but this certainly as good a fit as any tenon I would cut in the shop myself.

I'm a bit surprised the tenon broke before the short end grain between the mortise and end of the piece blew out. That's how I would expect a square mortise and tenon to fail in that location. Rounded tenons are supposed to be stronger in that regard, and I guess they are!

I think Chris Schwarz did a blog post where he compresses round tenons using a pair of channel locks so they swell up with glue. A metal working vice would probably do a good job on compressing loose tenon stock a bit, but I imagine that would get old pretty quickly when you have a couple dozen to do.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I think Chris Schwarz did a blog post where he compresses round tenons using a pair of channel locks so they swell up with glue. A metal working vice would probably do a good job on compressing loose tenon stock a bit, but I imagine that would get old pretty quickly when you have a couple dozen to do.

I wonder if the cheap Harbor freight arbor press would do it?

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

If it squishes a dowel im p sure the wood don't care how much you spent

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

It's not so much a wood species problem really. Cutting a strip off the edge of a board tends to leave you with a bowed strip because alot of tension that was created as the wood dried get's released. Do you have a hand plane? Ripping something oversized and then planing one edge straight and ripping the other side to final width usually yields something reasonably straight. There's also various ways to use a tablesaw and a straight length of plywood to straightline rip a board.

As far as 'furniture grade' pine, around here that usually means white pine with some smallish, usually tight knots. I haven't used a ton of it, but I wouldn't say it is necessarily super straight grain IME. If you want clear pine, that is called C (or C & better) grade pine. A good construction lumberyard (not lowesdepot) should carry some sort of C grade yellow pine or doug fir. They may have it as rough 1x (4/4) which you can probably get 7/8" out of, or they may just have it milled to 3/4" as 1x. You could plane the 3/4" down to 1/2" and get the 7/8" across the width. It is usually much much straighter than the #2 stuff big box places have, and I bet if you ripped a section out of the middle of a 1x4 it wouldn't move too much, depending on grain. Sometimes the yellow pine C-grade 1x4's I have gotten are basically quartersawn already, and in 4-5' lengths, they should be pretty straight. A decent construction lumberyard might have cypress which would be a good choice too.

E: the 'select' pine boards on the aisle with the oak/poplar ate the big box places are usually radiata pine and basically the same as C grade but they charge twice as much. They are usually pretty dry, as is C grade stuff. It's usually kiln dried down to 7-8%MC like hardwoods, not 16% like construction lumber.

Thanks again for this post, by the way. I ended up going with "select" pine from Home Depot. Probably not optimal but I was able to dig through and find a 1x4 (3/4" by 3/1") that was reasonably straight. I planed it down to just under an inch thick and ripped the strips for the bead. They're a little bowed, as you noted, but because they're just thick enough to fit into the parting bead groove and be held there by tension they stay pretty nicely.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I ran out of plant stands again but I had a few spare triangles and some scrap mahogany left.



I almost made a four legged triangle table but luckily I came to my senses before anything was irreversible.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Wallet posted:

I ran out of plant stands again but I had a few spare triangles and some scrap mahogany left.



I almost made a four legged triangle table but luckily I came to my senses before anything was irreversible.

Fucks sake, Picasso. I like it.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
I made a charcuterie board as a housewarming present for some friends and it’s real nice. I am wondering (now that it is finished with mineral oil and board wax,) if there is any “topical/superficial“ way to add a little more shine to it? Do I want to rub it with a really fine steel wool? Or anything like that?

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

pass a hair dryer over it and melt the wax?

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I made a danish cord bench. The weaving was quite enjoyable and becomes second nature once the first couple rows are done.

I have a bunch of leftover cord so Im planning on making another smaller one to use as an ottoman.



oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Hot drat I like it. Did you work from plans you can share? I've been wanting to do a weaving project and this looks fun.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
Oh yeah, same!
I have some really nice boards of goncalo alves I picked up on sale but they're not very wide so crafting them into a frame would be straightforward and I bet some cord would look great on it.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Bought a newer Stanley 71 router plane + a box of chisels from an auction house for CA$65 and picked it up this week.

At the bottom of the box were three rosewood and brass adjustable mortising gauges in near mint, fine, and good condition:



I uhhhh think I did ok on that one

e. a healthy set of mortising chisels too

e.e. holy poo poo these are all vintage marples chisels in pristine condition. I think that this box would be like $1000 to assemble if I bought things one at a time

CommonShore fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Sep 10, 2022

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
Absolute steal, congrats

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I know the incra is the best mitre gage to get but a) $$$ and b) bulky. Is there a goon-approved gage for like ~$50 that's worth getting and maybe a little more portable? It's for work (remodeling )so portability and durability are a little more important than cabinet level precision, but ideally I could have all three ...... or should I just save up for the real deal

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Crossposting my "project" from AI, if it actually happens, it'll be hella ugly :)

The idea is to build a little shelf unit in my car that will make living out of it for maybe a week at a time tolerable, and then go south to explore places when it gets cold here.

mobby_6kl posted:

So just for shits and giggles I scanned my Fit's trunk to see if I could make some sort of camper shelf thing that would fit neatly and use all the available space. And then pretty quickly realized I've no idea how to actually design anything functional out of (ply)wood, even though I helped make furniture in a family business as a teenager. It's great that I can get all the contours perfectly but then what lol.


Apparently I have nothing better to do on a Sunday so my dumb camper thing is almost finished... in draft form. I really wanted a sink and stove that could slide outside (under the hatch) but also be used inside if really necessary, as miserable as that might be. Seems like the sink is going to be a pain in the rear end but hopefully some flexible enough hoses could just run to a bottle on the bottom level.

https://i.imgur.com/xmYlC9m.mp4

I should be able to make the bottom compatible with Ikea Kallax by just raising the middle shelf by a few cm, so all their doors, shelves and organizers could be re-used. Not sure about the top row, maybe top-hinged doors that could be propped open to create a sleeping platform.

The rear side is a nightmare, I'd probably re-do it and keep only the cutouts for the wheel well and door armrest, and straighten out the rest. Then maybe use a flexible net or mesh for the backing and let it confront to minor variations to maximize available space.

bred
Oct 24, 2008
Nice scan. Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I just saw this youtube in my feed of building a plywood grid to a contour that you might appreciate: https://youtu.be/AEYOxDG-Tac

Have you considered building the square cabinet that fits in that volume and then trimming it out to fit your car? It is much easier to build a rectangular prism with machines and fit it to the car by adding smaller pieces in place. You can use the CAD to compare the approaches.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I made a danish cord bench. The weaving was quite enjoyable and becomes second nature once the first couple rows are done.

I have a bunch of leftover cord so Im planning on making another smaller one to use as an ottoman.





drat you keep cranking out such nice pieces. Great execution.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
First of many storage cubbies in clamps. Underestimated how any twist in the plywood would make assembly difficult.




Also, turns out sheets of plywood can vary by +/- 0.05 inches! I thought I had tuned the dado stack to give an easy fit and there's one sheet's worth of divider pieces that won't fit. Frustrating.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Hot drat I like it. Did you work from plans you can share? I've been wanting to do a weaving project and this looks fun.

Thank you. The weaving was an article in Fine Woodworking (they have a good video too): https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/chairs-benches-and-stools/how-to-weave-a-seat-with-danish-cord

I also consulted this one which isn't behind a paywall; the weave is a bit different in that it uses L-shaped nails where-as the one above doesn't. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/paper-cord-weaving/ I am sure there are a bunch of other guides/videos elsewhere.

For the actual stool, it's basically a copy of the one built in the Fine Woodworking article above, the author has a long instagram video where he talks through the whole plans: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CE_AzlYHHZO/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D If you don't want to listen through and draw your own I can post the drawing I built from. As you can see I changed the shape of the legs from the original.

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Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver








I was at the sawmill getting wood for another project (firewood store, below) and had rummage through the "waste" pile. This pile was 20 foot deep and about 40 foot on a side. I found this to my eyes nice softwood, I think redwood pine? that I'm going to make into a coffee table.

Above documents me trying to do home milling accurately with a circular saw. I made mistakes, first among them using a previous strip that wasn't straight as a guide, then having to do the other side with something I knew was true. I can see how a table or bandsaw would be very useful.

Going to use a newly purchased biscuit joiner after I've planed the sides to a more similar shape.

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