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Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Levitate posted:

Panic breaking is a bit of a skill...you can definitely brake hard with the front brake and not endo (in fact you'll stop faster than if you rely more on the rear brake...which will just skid sooner and you'll lose braking power and control).

when I have to panic break I always think "low and back". Shift my center of gravity lower and weight back so that I'm pushing into the front of the bike (the front wheel where the braking force is happening) rather than up and over the top of the front wheel (which will send you flying).

A bit more of a mountain bike thing but imagining "heels down" does a lot to get your weight moving in the proper direction (ie: not over the top of your wheel and flying over the bars). Heels down, weight pushing down through the pedals, and you'll have a much safer time braking hard with the front brake

Also, learn to squeeze rather than grab the front brake. Slamming it on as hard as you can immediately can be bad news, but a fast firm pull can get you stopped quickly and safely.

Thanks this is good advice, maybe its the ibuprofen working its magic or a different sitting position but I'm also feeling a bit better, it helps I'm resting the injured arm on my desk now so it doesn't have to move much. (I was sitting in my easy chair for a bit with my laptop and that was a little rougher)

I think the scary thing was for the first minute when I was on the ground and even when I was helped over to a nearby park bench my vision was like, all yellow? Like when you stand up too fast and its just a kaleidoscope. Made texting my PT a pain trying to squint through it but it gradually cleared up. And also that I had a really strong urge to just close my eyes and take a nap right there; and it took a few minutes to power through it while talking to the people who were helping me. :)

I'm surprised but you wouldn't think the average person would be so knowledgeable about that kind of first aid, asking me if I knew my name, where I was, keeping me talking so I didn't just fall unconscious. One of them called the ambulance as well; but basically both the people that stuck with me until the ambulance arrived seemed to know their thing, the dude left leaving me with just the lady for a minute until my coincidence my PT happened to drive by, did a double take and pulled over and rushed over to me.

I am 100% certain wearing a helmet almost certainly saved my life; helmet good! I'll look into knee/elbow pads and gloves as well for next time as basically aside from the shoulder I landed on and rolled over I just have scraped and cuts.

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tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
I got some gloves at Genital's Cheating Bads or whatever it's called, and they work great. I know because I finally got back on my bike for a decent ride today.

After last weekend's very painful ride, I found a nasty blister-style saddle sore, and I've been nursing it all week. Two days later, I was challenged to do a 150 mile September challenge for St. Jude, and I did it because I'm a smart guy. Well, several days of gentle applications of generic antibiotic salve and non-stick pads later, and it was time to start. I was hoping to feel comfortable for at least 5 miles, but I did 18 without much discomfort. So, I'll continue to be careful with it, and I may skip the big St. Louis ride this weekend in favor of easier rides on the trails I'm used to, but I'm officially on the mend.

Babby's first road bike inspired babby's first saddle sore. Can't wait for the next adventure.

And I did get some vindication, because a lot of locals who have done the whole 5-mile stretch of nasty Levee Road that's mostly gravel with a few bare spots of ancient pavement told me that it's messed with them, too. It even dropped one person's handlebars, or something like that. It's a bone rattler.

Ornery and Hornery
Oct 22, 2020

What’s the consensus goon approved heavy duty chain bike lock?

Do I require one?

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

Ornery and Hornery posted:

What’s the consensus goon approved heavy duty chain bike lock?

Do I require one?

YouTube up "lock picking lawyer bike lock" and despair.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Raenir Salazar posted:

Ate poo poo on my bike not just last week but today as well, panicked front breaker while on a downhill and ate poo poo with my bike flipping 180 degrees both times. Last time was just a bruise on my arm, this week I was easily several times faster and a minivan cut me off, I think onlookers who stopped by to help me up described it as my bike sailing over my head.

My gym trainer happened to be driving by as we were heading to the gym for today's session so I got lucky and she helped drive me and my bike home. An ambulance checked me out and nothing seems broken but ill likely be in huge amounts of pain tomorrow.

Gotta get used to rear breaking instead I think. But it's the "slow" break which is why I was more used to front breaking.

I hope my shoulder isn't like injured injured. drat you cogswain you foreshadowed this! :haw:

I remember the lady who stayed with me saying on the phone "he still has his sense of humour" because I described it as like experiencing the 'to be continued' screen from jojo, that was funny.

Brakes.

Use both brakes.

If you need to emergency brake, shift your butt back slightly and get your body as low as possible, hugging the bars/top-tube. If you do that there's no way you will flip over your bike unless you're on a tremendously steep descent... like 25% or more. You will lose front wheel traction and flip sideways like you ran over a banana peel before going over the bars.

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Ornery and Hornery posted:

What’s the consensus goon approved heavy duty chain bike lock?

Do I require one?

Sufficiently motivated thieves can steal any bike they want to. They will probably choose the easiest bikes nearby to steal. It's like a version of the old saying about "you don't need to be faster than the lion, you need to be faster than your slowest friend". That may require a big chain lock, it may require just one of the kryptonite u locks. But even the chain can't guarantee it won't be stolen. Ultimately, if you care a lot, buy insurance.

Cat Ass Trophy
Jul 24, 2007
I can do twice the work in half the time

Heliosicle posted:

Then the small should be 1 pie :v:

You are right. But my error cancelled itself out. It is just pie, not 2 pie.

All of this pizza talk made me get bad Blaze pizza after tonight's ride. It was still good because I was really hungry.

The road bike is fast compared to gravel. I had not been on the road since October 2nd of 2021.

Coxswain Balls
Jun 4, 2001

tarlibone posted:

YouTube up "lock picking lawyer bike lock" and despair.

I would be very surprised if much locks are bypassed by picking versus brute force like wire cutters, bolt cutters, bottle jacks, or a battery-powered angle grinder. I've never seen a single picked lock on my local stolen bike groups, it's almost always the lock that's cut, or whatever it was locked on to.

I found my lock on there a couple years after I bought it and while he's obviously able to open it without issues, he still gave it a thumbs up for pick resistance since he needed a bunch of custom tools to open it. The square shackle profile and the steel they use apparently make it the lightest lock in its strength class which is what I was looking for, and chances are it'll take two cuts if they have to attack the shackle.

Ultimately you need to take a holistic approach to bike security, where you have to lock up, if there are people around who know that's your bike and care enough to tell people to gently caress off, and so on. It's so bad that these days I've started taking my bike inside with me everywhere again. Places that deal with theft or know I'm a regular are the most accommodating about it I've found because they know it's getting so bad. My 7-11 had their entire bike rack stolen by scrappers so they don't give a gently caress any more.

https://twitter.com/bkives/status/1564706532998225925
https://twitter.com/bkives/status/1565092568152641543

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Ornery and Hornery posted:

What’s the consensus goon approved heavy duty chain bike lock?

Do I require one?

i watched a lot of LPL videos before i went with this option:

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/products/product-information/current-key/000808.html?type=bicycle

i never leave it out of sight for too long so i can't attest to it stopping any thieves but i like that it's not a tubular pin lock, which are often really easy to pick. the shackles are pretty tough to cut too.

The Wiggly Wizard
Aug 21, 2008


Ornery and Hornery posted:

What’s the consensus goon approved heavy duty chain bike lock?

Do I require one?

I have two On Guard locks, one chain w/ mini u lock, and one big u lock. They are super heavy but hey, my bike hasn’t been stolen yet.

I also don’t really leave my bikes unattended longer than a trip into a grocery store. Always bring it into the office, or have line of sight if I’m outside. This is not practical for everyone and maybe my locks are overkill for my situation.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Raenir Salazar posted:

An ambulance checked me out and nothing seems broken but ill likely be in huge amounts of pain tomorrow.

Raenir Salazar posted:

I think the scary thing was for the first minute when I was on the ground and even when I was helped over to a nearby park bench my vision was like, all yellow?
And also that I had a really strong urge to just close my eyes and take a nap right there; and it took a few minutes to power through it while talking to the people who were helping me. :)

I am 100% certain wearing a helmet almost certainly saved my life; helmet good!
Surprised the EMTs didn't tell you to rest up for concussion symptoms. You should definitely do so.

And replace that helmet with one with a high star rating.
https://www.helmet.beam.vt.edu/bicycle-helmet-ratings.html
There's plenty that are cheap that have the best safety (as far as their model assesses).

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass
Trip report part 1, a trip from the UK to Ventoux. The car breaks down near Dijon many hours later we are picked up and the car transported to a garage and us to a hotel. The holiday insurance agrees to pay for a hire car but nowhere is open until Monday, we drive to Marseilles airport to pick up a couple who are flying in. Arrive at the gite we are staying a, it's pitch black and the driver hits a rock and puts a dent all along the side of the hire car.
Our car is fixed and the owner drives 5 hour to pick it up and return the hire car. He picks up his car and gets a hour along the road and it breaks down again with the same problem. He finally gets rescued at 10pm. This morning they are renting another car to pick the rest of us up and our bikes. We have tickets for the Chunnel tomorrow night with no way to transport 5people and 5 bikes back home. At least I got three rides in.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

Coxswain Balls posted:

I would be very surprised if much locks are bypassed by picking versus brute force like wire cutters, bolt cutters, bottle jacks, or a battery-powered angle grinder. I've never seen a single picked lock on my local stolen bike groups, it's almost always the lock that's cut, or whatever it was locked on to.

Oh yeah, for sure. And to drive home that point, LPL did a series of videos where he used destructive attacks using bolt cutters and cordless hydraulic cutters.

Like I said, watch the videos... and despair.

I'm thinking of getting a sign that says I have monkey pox and putting it on the bike.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

kimbo305 posted:

Surprised the EMTs didn't tell you to rest up for concussion symptoms. You should definitely do so.

And replace that helmet with one with a high star rating.
https://www.helmet.beam.vt.edu/bicycle-helmet-ratings.html
There's plenty that are cheap that have the best safety (as far as their model assesses).

I stayed in bed (or rather on my couch as it was less painful for getting up from) basically until 2 pm today, so I tried my best to rest up.

I'll take a look at those helmets, as while I think my brain case is all fine I did get like a harry potter "scar" (not actually a scar) where I think my head pressed up against the helmet.

Ibuprofen doing its magic; I got like partial mobility back. I dabbed some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel on all the scrapes and oh boy it stings! Which means it working. :)

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro




Angryhead posted:


9x Microshift, some old chainring & cranks up front. Taken off the rattling mudguard and added a bar bag since. I do wish I had better brakes though
Looking for a bit of bike buying advice: I've rode over 3000 km with this bike now and while I like pretty much everything else, the lovely brakes are a real killer - and I'm honestly kind of afraid that eventually, literally. (I think they model is Weinmann AG Vainqueur 750 if anybody wants to check them out)

So I'm looking at getting another similar bike.
I'll consult with the dudes that built me this bike next week and maybe they'll fix me up something suitable from their second-hand inventory, but wanted to get some advice here too.
I ride a lot and could afford carbon and stuff, but I'd still rather get a cheapish bike so I stumbled upon this triban grvl 520 subcompact on Decathlon. 1100€ for Shimano 105 R7000 seems like good value for money.
Now the brakes on it...

quote:

TRP HY/RD disc brakes.
Cable-operated hydraulic pistons, ensuring reliability and efficiency
160mm disc at the front and rear. Flat Mount assembly.
Anti-compression Jagwire housing to ensure braking precision and efficiency
Semi-metallic TRP pad (M515/M525 version)
Bit of Googling tells me that these are from 2013 or so and were considered okay at the time, considering the cheap price - here's a review from road.cc for example.
I'd feel dumb in justifying an upgrade for "poo poo brakes" and then buying a bike with poo poo brakes but it's proooobably fine in 2022?
FWIW I have near-zero interest in racing and while I do enjoy going fast, I'd spend the vast majority of the time on this bike on multi-hour Z2 rides, rain or shine.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Angryhead posted:

Looking for a bit of bike buying advice: I've rode over 3000 km with this bike now and while I like pretty much everything else, the lovely brakes are a real killer - and I'm honestly kind of afraid that eventually, literally. (I think they model is Weinmann AG Vainqueur 750 if anybody wants to check them out)

So I'm looking at getting another similar bike.
I'll consult with the dudes that built me this bike next week and maybe they'll fix me up something suitable from their second-hand inventory, but wanted to get some advice here too.
I ride a lot and could afford carbon and stuff, but I'd still rather get a cheapish bike so I stumbled upon this triban grvl 520 subcompact on Decathlon. 1100€ for Shimano 105 R7000 seems like good value for money.
Now the brakes on it...

Bit of Googling tells me that these are from 2013 or so and were considered okay at the time, considering the cheap price - here's a review from road.cc for example.
I'd feel dumb in justifying an upgrade for "poo poo brakes" and then buying a bike with poo poo brakes but it's proooobably fine in 2022?
FWIW I have near-zero interest in racing and while I do enjoy going fast, I'd spend the vast majority of the time on this bike on multi-hour Z2 rides, rain or shine.

You could just swap those brakes out for some modern side pulls. You'll need to check the reach and possibly get long reach calipers but they exist. https://www.universalcycles.com/sho...9UaAjc_EALw_wcB

Also maybe some Kool Stop pads

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Angryhead posted:

Looking for a bit of bike buying advice: I've rode over 3000 km with this bike now and while I like pretty much everything else, the lovely brakes are a real killer - and I'm honestly kind of afraid that eventually, literally. (I think they model is Weinmann AG Vainqueur 750 if anybody wants to check them out)

I stumbled upon this triban grvl 520 subcompact on Decathlon. 1100€ for Shimano 105 R7000 seems like good value for money.
Now the brakes on it...

Bit of Googling tells me that these are from 2013 or so and were considered okay at the time, considering the cheap price - here's a review from road.cc for example.

Hy/Rds are fine for most riding and will definitely have better power than your existing brakes. I have them on my 75lb touring bike setup and have gone down some pretty intense descents where I really needed the stopping power.

That said, the pic looks like you're still on the original pads for those center pulls -- have you ever asked your shop to get you some modern shoes and pads on there? And maybe adjust the brakes? I bet that would make the braking completely adequate.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about
You will laugh at the idea of the HY/RDs being a potential weakness once you ride that bike.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009

Angryhead posted:

Looking for a bit of bike buying advice: I've rode over 3000 km with this bike now and while I like pretty much everything else, the lovely brakes are a real killer - and I'm honestly kind of afraid that eventually, literally. (I think they model is Weinmann AG Vainqueur 750 if anybody wants to check them out)

So I'm looking at getting another similar bike.
I'll consult with the dudes that built me this bike next week and maybe they'll fix me up something suitable from their second-hand inventory, but wanted to get some advice here too.
I ride a lot and could afford carbon and stuff, but I'd still rather get a cheapish bike so I stumbled upon this triban grvl 520 subcompact on Decathlon. 1100€ for Shimano 105 R7000 seems like good value for money.
Now the brakes on it...

Bit of Googling tells me that these are from 2013 or so and were considered okay at the time, considering the cheap price - here's a review from road.cc for example.
I'd feel dumb in justifying an upgrade for "poo poo brakes" and then buying a bike with poo poo brakes but it's proooobably fine in 2022?
FWIW I have near-zero interest in racing and while I do enjoy going fast, I'd spend the vast majority of the time on this bike on multi-hour Z2 rides, rain or shine.

Dunno if you read the last pages of the thread dissing the Peugeot but that frame is so much worse. The fauber bottom bracket alone is huge pain in the rear end and super heavy. Almost anything from the past 30 years is gonna be a huge improvement.

The only caveat might be that the frame might have a ton of flex which is expensive to get on a new bike.

Albinator
Mar 31, 2010

Raenir Salazar posted:


I'll look into knee/elbow pads and gloves as well for next time as basically aside from the shoulder I landed on and rolled over I just have scraped and cuts.
Gloves yes, because losing skin from your hands when you come off really sucks and gloves can be thin and comfortable, but I think knee and elbow protection is more than you need. They'd be obtrusive to ride with, and have pretty marginal utility in an actual crash.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

kimbo305 posted:

Hy/Rds are fine for most riding and will definitely have better power than your existing brakes. I have them on my 75lb touring bike setup and have gone down some pretty intense descents where I really needed the stopping power.

That said, the pic looks like you're still on the original pads for those center pulls -- have you ever asked your shop to get you some modern shoes and pads on there? And maybe adjust the brakes? I bet that would make the braking completely adequate.

Yes. I did this on my old bike that had some very similar looking brakes and pads and it was like night and day.

Albinator posted:

Gloves yes, because losing skin from your hands when you come off really sucks and gloves can be thin and comfortable, but I think knee and elbow protection is more than you need. They'd be obtrusive to ride with, and have pretty marginal utility in an actual crash.

I bet knee pads would also give you a nasty rash in your knee pit too

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro




Thanks y'all, I'll definitely ask them about just straight-up upgrading the brakes and pads. I know that the pads were fresh when I got the bike, but probably cheap generic ones.

kimbo305 posted:

Hy/Rds are fine for most riding and will definitely have better power than your existing brakes. I have them on my 75lb touring bike setup and have gone down some pretty intense descents where I really needed the stopping power.
Good to hear this too though!

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

I’m looking for a recommendation for a rear rack mounted tail light. I got a light that was nice and bright, but it mounted with a strap. Long story short, it fell off and I need a new one.

I have a topeak rear rack on my commuter bike. The ideal light holder would be mounted with bolts, and I’d prefer something usb rechargeable.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Levitate posted:

Panic breaking is a bit of a skill...you can definitely brake hard with the front brake and not endo (in fact you'll stop faster than if you rely more on the rear brake...which will just skid sooner and you'll lose braking power and control).

when I have to panic break I always think "low and back". Shift my center of gravity lower and weight back so that I'm pushing into the front of the bike (the front wheel where the braking force is happening) rather than up and over the top of the front wheel (which will send you flying).

A bit more of a mountain bike thing but imagining "heels down" does a lot to get your weight moving in the proper direction (ie: not over the top of your wheel and flying over the bars). Heels down, weight pushing down through the pedals, and you'll have a much safer time braking hard with the front brake

Also, learn to squeeze rather than grab the front brake. Slamming it on as hard as you can immediately can be bad news, but a fast firm pull can get you stopped quickly and safely.

The wisdom from motorcycling is that your panic/sudden brake squeeze should take a "one one thousand" count. Of course this takes practice so that the tendency overrides your instinct to just grab as hard as you can. But that 0.5-1 second duration also gives you time to adjust your body position back, get weight on your feet, and yell "WHAT THE FU-" at the driver.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Dobbs_Head posted:

I’m looking for a recommendation for a rear rack mounted tail light. I got a light that was nice and bright, but it mounted with a strap. Long story short, it fell off and I need a new one.

I have a topeak rear rack on my commuter bike. The ideal light holder would be mounted with bolts, and I’d prefer something usb rechargeable.

what’s the mount on the rack look like?

I have a garmin 1/4 turn mount on my rack for a varia light

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Dobbs_Head posted:

I’m looking for a recommendation for a rear rack mounted tail light. I got a light that was nice and bright, but it mounted with a strap. Long story short, it fell off and I need a new one.

I have a topeak rear rack on my commuter bike. The ideal light holder would be mounted with bolts, and I’d prefer something usb rechargeable.

I think this is what I had: https://www.niterider.com/products/tail-light-rack-mount

NiteRider lights are good.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

sweat poteto posted:

I think this is what I had: https://www.niterider.com/products/tail-light-rack-mount

NiteRider lights are good.

Portland design works has almost the exact same thing for most of their lights. I think they're all or nearly all USB chargeable now, too.

https://ridepdw.com/collections/tail-lights/products/tail-light-rack-bracket

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

I think a non-zero number of people in this thread might be interested in this https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/products/abs

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
Any of you know where I could find a campagnolo record 1" threaded headset that's in stock or secondhand? I've tried some reputable online shops and nothing. Ebay has it for twice the price it goes for and shipping would take several weeks. There is one on amazon, but I prefer to avoid them and it would take between 3 and 6 weeks, which leads me to believe the "in stock" part is a lie.

The only other places I see it on the internet are the very sketchy looking places listed on google shopping which I don't trust at all. I've got a velo orange one, but I've been through three of these and none of them fit properly and bike shop says that another guy is having the exact same issue with that.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Mauser posted:

I've got a velo orange one, but I've been through three of these and none of them fit properly and bike shop says that another guy is having the exact same issue with that.

Is Velo Orange stuff just kind of sloppy on tolerances? I'm currently grinding out the ends of some of their rando bars to install bar end shifters because despite clearly being milled out about 2 inches deep the surface is all irregular in there and they won't fit

Korwen
Feb 26, 2003

don't mind me, I'm just out hunting.

I'm considering some bike related purchases and I don't know how stupid of an idea these are.

I've got a 2021 Kona Rove DL that I've been riding for 2 years, it's my first serious bike. Since I started riding it I've had the most fun riding on hardpack trails, light gravel, paved paths and roads, whether by myself or in a group. I'd like to start biking further, now I'm stuck in this 30-40 mile range, but I would like to eventually work up to doing centuries. With all that in mind I'm considering some changes.

The smart and reasonable thing is to do nothing and just go ride more because I put on weight over the pandemic, but I'm not posting this because I want to be reasonable.

I'm considering getting new wheels/tires. I'm leaning towards trying a set of carbon 700c wheels with some 38 width semi-slick tires, gravelkings, etc. The internet seems to say that upgrading tires and wheels is a big first step, and that carbon wheels can dramatically change the feel of a bike. Since I'm mostly on paved surfaces and covering distance is my goal I was thinking of going up from 650 x 47 to 700 x 38. I suppose I could stick with 650b, but I kind of want to try the bigger wheels.

I could just replace my WTB Ventures with a set of semi-slicks too. Cheapest route and I'll probably notice a difference.

Or, I could get really stupid and just buy a new bike. I've been eyeing the Giant Revolt Advanced 2. Carbon frame, GRX 810 2x11 gearset, hydraulic brakes, 700 x 38, and a loving boss-rear end glittery colorway. I feel like it would be a better bike for all the things I enjoy doing. I sometimes feel like how I ride would be better with a 2x groupset and a lighter bike, this would be both. Plus I love bombing down hills and even though my mech brakes are great hydraulic would be better.

But that feels like a pretty big jump and possibly unnecessary for me. Is it dumb for someone only in the sport a couple years to drop $3k on a carbon bike? I feel like spending half that I can get a lot more life out of my current bike, and have a wheelset that I can swap onto a fancy frame whenever that time comes.

Korwen fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Sep 3, 2022

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
I was having some chain skips on 6th gear, so I just taught myself how to make small adjustments on the rear derailleur on the new bike. After sufficiently messing it up at first, I got it working again, and a test ride up and down the hill I live on (gently caress, my town is hilly), every gear seems nice and happy. I'm sure that skippetty-doo-dah might come back on my next long-ish ride, but if it does, I'll head to the shop to see what's up. I'm taking the day off today, but if the weather is clear-ish tomorrow, I'll be back on the saddle. (If it's not clear, I'll have to ride in side. Gotta keep up with the challenge.)



Korwen posted:

I'm considering some bike related purchases and I don't know how stupid of an idea these are.

I've got a 2021 Kona Rove DL that I've been riding for 2 years, it's my first serious bike. Since I started riding it I've had the most fun riding on hardpack trails, light gravel, paved paths and roads, whether by myself or in a group. I'd like to start biking further, now I'm stuck in this 30-40 mile range, but I would like to eventually work up to doing centuries. With all that in mind I'm considering some changes.

The smart and reasonable thing is to do nothing and just go ride more because I put on weight over the pandemic, but I'm not posting this because I want to be reasonable.

I'm considering getting new wheels/tires. I'm leaning towards trying a set of carbon 700c wheels with some 38 width semi-slick tires, gravelkings, etc. The internet seems to say that upgrading tires and wheels is a big first step, and that carbon wheels can dramatically change the feel of a bike. Since I'm mostly on paved surfaces and covering distance is my goal I was thinking of going up from 650 x 47 to 700 x 38. I suppose I could stick with 650b, but I kind of want to try the bigger wheels.

I could just replace my WTB Ventures with a set of semi-slicks too. Cheapest route and I'll probably notice a difference.

Or, I could get really stupid and just buy a new bike. I've been eyeing the Giant Revolt Advanced 2. Carbon frame, GRX 810 2x11 gearset, hydraulic brakes, 700 x 38, and a loving boss-rear end glittery colorway. I feel like it would be a better bike for all the things I enjoy doing. I sometimes feel like how I ride would be better with a 2x groupset and a lighter bike, this would be both. Plus I love bombing down hills and even though my mech brakes are great hydraulic would be better.

But that feels like a pretty big jump and possibly unnecessary for me. Is it dumb for someone only in the sport a couple years to drop $3k on a carbon bike? I feel like spending half that I can get a lot more life out of my current bike, and have a wheelset that I can swap onto a fancy frame whenever that time comes.

I thought you wrote "Karl Rove DL," which had me wondering how, where, when, and why Karl Rove got into bikesmithing, and why he wanted to keep it on the DL.

Can a bike with 650B wheels even accommodate 700C wheels? I seriously don't know.

Honestly, if distance is your goal, my totally uninformed, complete newbie, but guy-who-has-read-a-lot-about-this-lately opinion is that you're going to want 700C's, and with skinny road tires. Even the stock tires on my new (and first) road bike, which are 32's and thus not especially skinny, feel every efficient. Also, while I am sure that loads of people have done loads of centuries on steel-framed bikes, I would imagine that any lighter frame would make your goal that much easier to achieve.

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

This is what the back of my rack looks like. (Take it in boys :biglips:)

What is the name of this kind of three hole mount? I want to make sure what I buy will fit.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

Dog Case posted:

Is Velo Orange stuff just kind of sloppy on tolerances? I'm currently grinding out the ends of some of their rando bars to install bar end shifters because despite clearly being milled out about 2 inches deep the surface is all irregular in there and they won't fit

I dunno. I've used this same headset on another bike a bit ago and it's perfect, but the current batch is just consistently off for these headsets apparently. Bike shop guy I've been dealing with really likes their stuff and is just baffled by the whole experience.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Dobbs_Head posted:

What is the name of this kind of three hole mount? I want to make sure what I buy will fit.

Anything that say rack mount will fit, it's standard. 50 or 80mm distance, I forget.

Sphyre
Jun 14, 2001

Korwen posted:

I've been eyeing the Giant Revolt Advanced 2.

Is it dumb for someone only in the sport a couple years to drop $3k on a carbon bike?

Only you can answer that question (personally, if you've been getting a lot of use out of your current bike for the past two years, I say go for it) but i've also been eyeing up a giant revolt as my next bike, and there's a lot of reports of the frame cracking around the seatpost due to a design flaw. Just a heads up!

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Korwen posted:

I was thinking of going up from 650 x 47 to 700 x 38. I suppose I could stick with 650b, but I kind of want to try the bigger wheels.

Keep in mind these will be actually physically bigger, which will affect your standover / distance to the ground by about 1cm.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Dobbs_Head posted:

This is what the back of my rack looks like. (Take it in boys :biglips:)

What is the name of this kind of three hole mount? I want to make sure what I buy will fit.


If you were interested in the garmin varia light with the radar, I used a stem cap garmin 1/4turn mount to bolt it to my rack, it’d work on yours too.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Korwen posted:

I'm considering some bike related purchases and I don't know how stupid of an idea these are.

I've got a 2021 Kona Rove DL that I've been riding for 2 years, it's my first serious bike. Since I started riding it I've had the most fun riding on hardpack trails, light gravel, paved paths and roads, whether by myself or in a group. I'd like to start biking further, now I'm stuck in this 30-40 mile range, but I would like to eventually work up to doing centuries. With all that in mind I'm considering some changes.

The smart and reasonable thing is to do nothing and just go ride more because I put on weight over the pandemic, but I'm not posting this because I want to be reasonable.

I'm considering getting new wheels/tires. I'm leaning towards trying a set of carbon 700c wheels with some 38 width semi-slick tires, gravelkings, etc. The internet seems to say that upgrading tires and wheels is a big first step, and that carbon wheels can dramatically change the feel of a bike. Since I'm mostly on paved surfaces and covering distance is my goal I was thinking of going up from 650 x 47 to 700 x 38. I suppose I could stick with 650b, but I kind of want to try the bigger wheels.

I could just replace my WTB Ventures with a set of semi-slicks too. Cheapest route and I'll probably notice a difference.

Or, I could get really stupid and just buy a new bike. I've been eyeing the Giant Revolt Advanced 2. Carbon frame, GRX 810 2x11 gearset, hydraulic brakes, 700 x 38, and a loving boss-rear end glittery colorway. I feel like it would be a better bike for all the things I enjoy doing. I sometimes feel like how I ride would be better with a 2x groupset and a lighter bike, this would be both. Plus I love bombing down hills and even though my mech brakes are great hydraulic would be better.

But that feels like a pretty big jump and possibly unnecessary for me. Is it dumb for someone only in the sport a couple years to drop $3k on a carbon bike? I feel like spending half that I can get a lot more life out of my current bike, and have a wheelset that I can swap onto a fancy frame whenever that time comes.

Wheels are, imo, about the only really cost-effective upgrade on a bike. Once you get in to components, the cost difference between retail and OEM makes it more effective to upgrade the whole bike.
It's easy to swap wheels, so having a second set to supplement your current ones is great: the current ones dialed for gravel type riding, and a second set just for bangin' out road miles. I'd probably go with something slightly narrower than 38s - maybe 32 or 35 at the widest, unless your roads are absolutely trashed.

It's not dumb to buy nice things for a hobby you enjoy and that is good for your health, assuming you can afford it. You don't need to spend $3k to have a good time doing long rides, but it *will* be a noticeable upgrade.

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Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Dobbs_Head posted:

This is what the back of my rack looks like. (Take it in boys :biglips:)

What is the name of this kind of three hole mount? I want to make sure what I buy will fit.



I don't know what it's called but I bought a 3-hole rack mount for my Cygolite Hotshot for like 5 bucks and everything fits right up on my Topeak rack.

This: https://smile.amazon.com/Cygolite-Rack-Mount-for-Hotshot/dp/B009VUB0Q8

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