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Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Trip report: Buying a 3D printer really changes the terrain game. Even with a FDM printer I am able to crank out some cool looking buildings, which is especially cool as GW seems to be edging away from buildings as well. When my resin printer arrives I am excited to see what cool stuff I can print.

Even with a mid sized resin printer, printing buildings is tough. But, what I’ve found works really well is printing detail parts like windows, doors, vents and lights then slapping them onto basic shapes to make good looking buildings quick and cheap.

I literally took the small boxes my resin bottles are shipped in and turned them into warehouses by adding a bit of foam core trim and some printed windows and doors.

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SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

AquaticIguana posted:

Trying to finish up my first models, currently working on the bases. Any suggestions for little doodads that would be good with what I have going on? I don't have a lot on terms of extra bits or tiny skulls, which is too bad. I thought it'd be cool to add some swampy logs. If I add them, how would you paint tiny twigs? Or would you leave them kind of natural?

Also I ordered some of that rust stuff. Thanks for the suggestion!



I sometimes paint twigs, occasionally I leave them natural, sometimes I do an in-between (dont paint them as such, but maybe a dark wash and a drybrush). Your bases look toxic and goopy (in a good way), so I'd probably do quite a light coloured drybrush to make them look real dead and dry. Maybe splash some of the toxic sludge paint up on 'em. Put it on the base natural, if you like it, leave it. If you dont, drybrush it, if you still dont, you can paint over that. If you mess it up, gently caress it, they're just twigs, theres plenty twigs outside. Mixed herbs (or the tea leaves from a used teabag) can also be leaves/moss/undergrowth.

If you dont have a lot of spare bits or basing materials you might consider such things as:

Rocks. Either actual rocks or made out of pulled apart cork. Either way I do always paint rocks. Real rocks just dont look rocky enough on that scale.

Planks of wood. coffee stirrers or popsicle sticks do this well, you can add wood grain with an etching tool or mechanical pencil (or a bbq brush if you are doing loads at a time) then paint to taste. I tend to finish planks off with a very light coloured drybrush to make them look old and dried out, or a green wash if they are wet and slimy. Can be the occasional discarded plank or the remains of someones attempt to lay duckboards through the toxin swamp, whatever you think looks good.

Rusted scrap metal. Okay, you dont have bits, but do you have sprues? Because sections of cut up sprue can be bits of girder or torn up metal. Chuck enough rust effect on it and it could be the remains of almost anything metal. Similarly bits of food packaging with interesting texture can be bits of metal plating, any plastic cylinders can be pipes and corrugated cardboard can be corrugated iron.

If you have any irl friends who also paint figures you could try scrounging (or swapping) some bits from them. I think most marine players probably have a bunch of heads/helmets, arms, bolters and shoulder pads that realistically they will never need.

And thats just some free options. If you dont mind spending a little money you can get literal yards of cheap chain for jewelry making for a couple of dollars (thin jewelry chain works great as thick heroic scale chain) or scale model barbed wire by the metre. Some dead (or "autumn") static grass or tufts would work really well.

The citadel skulls box is comparatively pricey compared to my other suggestions, but is frankly probably the best value thing games workshop sells. That box is more skulls that you would need for basing a whole army (unless you use them like the model on the box does), and its not really expensive as these things go. If it wont put a massive hole in your budget, I'd recommend it.

Honestly basing is sometimes one of my favourite parts. I'd recommend 1-2 "features" per normal sized base, with a few bases with 3 and a few bases with 0, but thats my subjective opinion

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Pixel 4XL

I have a t7i but it's more of a pain because I have to whip out the tripod and all that noise

I have a Pixel 6 that I've been using for photos and I'm realizing that despite having a fancy camera in their phones, Google gives you zero manual control over it and by default it's not very good for macro photos. It's incredibly annoying for a phone line that's always marketed on having a good camera. I've been wrestling with mine and it's a ton of trial and error, using a tripod, and photoshop for focus stacking to get remotely decent looking pictures. I might just spring for a used digital camera at some point...


AquaticIguana posted:

Trying to finish up my first models, currently working on the bases. Any suggestions for little doodads that would be good with what I have going on? I don't have a lot on terms of extra bits or tiny skulls, which is too bad. I thought it'd be cool to add some swampy logs. If I add them, how would you paint tiny twigs? Or would you leave them kind of natural?

Also I ordered some of that rust stuff. Thanks for the suggestion!



I've ordered from Epic Basing for some resin basing bits in the past. I was pretty happy with the results, and it means not having to worry about your basing material rotting or growing mold or whatever. They sell resin bits and also STL files if you have access to a printer yourself. https://epicbasing.com/collections/forest-basing-bits

I'm using one of the stumps and one of the branches on this model:

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Bucnasti posted:

Even with a mid sized resin printer, printing buildings is tough. But, what I’ve found works really well is printing detail parts like windows, doors, vents and lights then slapping them onto basic shapes to make good looking buildings quick and cheap.

I literally took the small boxes my resin bottles are shipped in and turned them into warehouses by adding a bit of foam core trim and some printed windows and doors.

1. Get foam block
2. Carve out divet
3. Stick window or door into foam with glue
Congrats you now have a house

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





My first big terrain 3D print is the "Wizard Wagon" I did not realize it was going to be so big when I started. Pretty happy with how it came out, and I learned a few things about printing along the way!





Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost
So I bought a Kingdom Death sculpt recently

https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/pinup-male-dragon-goblin (nsfw: male semi-nudity)

I'm painting this for my wife, who definitely likes this sort of thing. I am at least somewhat concerned that I may have bit off more than I can chew wrt: the skill requirements of this but I've pieced it together and started to paint nevertheless. Any interest in seeing my progress/finished product ITT? I know Kingdom Death can be a controversial subject and I don't want to offend anyone with egregiously sexy goblin root

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


on one hand :justpost: on the other maybe the thread for weird poo poo might be better for it https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3660745

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost
fair enough



painted this this week, I bought it from armorcast a couple of years ago and I don't think it exists in their catalog anymore. D: Ignore the bad spot on the front of the comb, paint rubbed off and I gotta fix the highlights

Mirthless fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Sep 7, 2022

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Mirthless posted:

So I bought a Kingdom Death sculpt recently

https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/pinup-male-dragon-goblin (nsfw: male semi-nudity)

I'm painting this for my wife, who definitely likes this sort of thing. I am at least somewhat concerned that I may have bit off more than I can chew wrt: the skill requirements of this but I've pieced it together and started to paint nevertheless. Any interest in seeing my progress/finished product ITT? I know Kingdom Death can be a controversial subject and I don't want to offend anyone with egregiously sexy goblin root

I was not sure what Kingdom Death was, and after looking at that website, I was better off not knowing.

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I was not sure what Kingdom Death was, and after looking at that website, I was better off not knowing.

:shrug: There's always going to be a cheesecake market; at least they're equal opportunity with their pin-up models!

I really like their product personally but I acknowledge it's not for everybody

The pinup models mainly serve to fund development of an ultra-premium tabletop game which has considerably more mainstream art design: https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/kingdom-death-monster-1-5

Mirthless fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Sep 7, 2022

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Mirthless posted:

fair enough



painted this this week, I bought it from armorcast a couple of years ago and I don't think it exists in their catalog anymore. D: Ignore the bad spot on the front of the comb, paint rubbed off and I gotta fix the highlights

gently caress's sake Mirthless, stop posting cock on these forums. especially after you've rubbed it raw.


also if that's your painting skill, I think you'll be ok with the pinup mini.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Kingdom: death discussion was a massive blowup trigger in the boardgame thread, to the point where mods had to ban it from discussion entirely. I would caution folks here that it's a major point of contention among goons in TG and probably best not to make a big deal about liking it (or not liking it).

You can link & tag as NSFW progress on your model if you want.

The unspiration thread is more about shaking heads at terrible stuff, so crossposting there is kind of inviting harsh criticism I'd expect.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010






Finally basing a bunch of minis I've painted over the past few months and I'm real proud of this guy (who could use a varnishing), who came out pretty much exactly like I pictured in my head.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Going to have to replace my Raphael 8404 since it can no longer hold a point (or even two points) after several years, regardless of brush conditioning or any of the usual "tricks". Are they still the gold standard for sable brushes or has someone else taken that position over yet?

khazadum
Dec 1, 2006

I AM NOT A MERRY MAN

SkyeAuroline posted:

Going to have to replace my Raphael 8404 since it can no longer hold a point (or even two points) after several years, regardless of brush conditioning or any of the usual "tricks". Are they still the gold standard for sable brushes or has someone else taken that position over yet?

I own a few Rosemary and Co series 33 brushes and I adore them - main issue is you have to get them through a US distributor such as Windriverarts.

I got some brokentoad sable brushes as well, and they arrived super well packed and look great, but I haven't used them yet.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I was not sure what Kingdom Death was, and after looking at that website, I was better off not knowing.

The handful of models I looked at seemed whatever. Too expensive for me to buy, yet another expensive board game I'll not have time to play for years. I think the gf also would like some of the male pinups, and has bought me a few lewd etsy models but I haven't gotten around to painting them because IDK how the gently caress to paint skin and I'd do them a disservice so I'll just stick to what I know I can do.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Skin is fun to paint once you find some good recipes and practice with it. Something like ochre then skin tone then white skin tone works pretty easily, but I do the layering technique.

This is my go to white people skin recipe and I adjust the proportions of the layers depending on how tan the person will be. Sub any paints you have that are like this but this is a rough estimate



Also add glazes of red or light washes of red in places too.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I made a trello board to keep track of what my wall of grey is...still missing some minis but I have probably 80% of the collection tracked now

Hopefully that will make it easier to work on stuff :shuckyes:

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I made a trello board to keep track of what my wall of grey is...still missing some minis but I have probably 80% of the collection tracked now

Hopefully that will make it easier to work on stuff :shuckyes:
This is actually a really good idea and I'm kind of kicking myself for not thinking about it given how much I use Trello at work. Thanks for the lightbulb moment.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


Does anyone remember the name of simulator type game where you accept hobbyist commissions, and it has a mini painting component built into it?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Wrr posted:

Does anyone remember the name of simulator type game where you accept hobbyist commissions, and it has a mini painting component built into it?

Moonbreaker?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PP6r_hPECh0

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Wrr posted:

Does anyone remember the name of simulator type game where you accept hobbyist commissions, and it has a mini painting component built into it?

I think it was model builder.

https://store.steampowered.com/app/1164250/Model_Builder/

But moonbreaker does look like it has a ton of potential

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


w00tmonger posted:

I think it was model builder.

https://store.steampowered.com/app/1164250/Model_Builder/

But moonbreaker does look like it has a ton of potential

That's the one! Thanks

Fingat
May 17, 2004

Shhh. My Common Sense is Tingling



After taking time off to do some drawing at the end of last year and then moving twice to start the year I was finally able to get some painting in this summer and finished the squad last week.







Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Fingat posted:

After taking time off to do some drawing at the end of last year and then moving twice to start the year I was finally able to get some painting in this summer and finished the squad last week.









:wow: These are amazing! And the pictures are almost as good as the painting. I love the two tone of the grey.

Loxbourne
Apr 6, 2011

Tomorrow, doom!
But now, tea.

PoptartsNinja posted:

I have also seen tricks that use dead leaves that were run through a blender, but I don't remember where I saw that.

Luke Towan's model railroading channel on Youtube has a lot of tips on this, he uses dried leaf fragments for ground clutter.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

PoptartsNinja posted:

There are some tricks with using real wood, I'd suggest looking up a youtube tutorial like this one.

Small tree roots will generally look better at Warhammer scale than twigs do; but they need to be washed, dried, and then baked to kill anything that might be decomposing the wood.


I have also seen tricks that use dead leaves that were run through a blender, but I don't remember where I saw that.

Tea leaves make good ground litter. Cheap and easy to get.

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

I swear to god this loving paint is haunted.

Tell me the most poo poo least good flesh tone you've ever used and I'll switch over to it in a heartbeat.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Siivola posted:

I swear to god this loving paint is haunted.

Tell me the most poo poo least good flesh tone you've ever used and I'll switch over to it in a heartbeat.

Army Painter D&D Ruddy Flesh and Fair Skin.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Siivola posted:

I swear to god this loving paint is haunted.

Tell me the most poo poo least good flesh tone you've ever used and I'll switch over to it in a heartbeat.

In my experience, skin tones are weird and suck rear end unless you layer them on carefully.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Siivola posted:

I swear to god this loving paint is haunted.

That's how I'm feeling about Mephiston Red. Already still having the same palette issues as before (if not worse) but Mephiston Red is just being a loving nightmare to paint. Breaks on contact with the palette, thinner than most of my washes if it comes in contact with any thinner or water whatsoever - dipping my brush in water, wiping it off on paper towel multiple times, and then dipping the brush into the paint on a dry palette was enough to break it into a wash... The alternative is it's so thick it obscures detail, with nothing in between. And of course I'm on a scheme using red for a focus.

I just put an order in for a Vallejo substitute so I don't have to deal with it any more. This is taxing enough on my mental health already without having to deal with cursed paints on top of it. Repeated fuckups from that red have added at least another hour of work on cleanup to my current set of models.

So... Fingers crossed.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Loxbourne posted:

Luke Towan's model railroading channel on Youtube has a lot of tips on this, he uses dried leaf fragments for ground clutter.

Night Shift is also a good channel for diorama and vignette work, mostly tanks but he makes really nice terrain to put them on. https://www.youtube.com/c/NightShiftScaleModels

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Spanish Manlove posted:

In my experience, skin tones are weird and suck rear end unless you layer them on carefully.

Yeah, there's a reason my recipe for human skin tends to be:

1 - Stare at assorted skin tone paints of various shades, from dark brown to "basement dweller"

2 - Sigh.

3 - Apply VGC Heavy Skin

4 - Wash with Reikland Fleshshade

5 - Declare "gently caress it, good enough."

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Yeah I dunno if I'm just running into skin tones in general here. Are they all completely opaque and run everywhere like ink when exposed to moisture?

Lumpy posted:

Army Painter D&D Ruddy Flesh and Fair Skin.
That sounds great, but unfortunately those don't seem to be available as singles? I'm going to go with AP elf or barbarian flesh instead as a compromise.

SkyeAuroline posted:

So... Fingers crossed.
:( :respek: :(

Siivola fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Sep 8, 2022

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Most poo poo flesh wash: P3 and anything. It's perfect for rust stained concrete but no living thing is the color of P3 flesh wash.

White person combo: coral pink washed with Reikland Flesh, highlighted with pale pink

Black skin combo: chocolate brown highlighted with layers of same brown mixed with above pink, wash with reikland

Brown skin: start with coral and chocolate, wash with reikland, add khaki to the original mix and layer highlights

E: you can also practice with the extra heads you or a friend gets in bolt action kits, they typically include 3-4x the number of heads you need. (With different hats or helmeting choices.)

moths fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Sep 8, 2022

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Siivola posted:

Yeah I dunno if I'm just running into skin tones in general here. Are they all completely opaque and run everywhere like ink when exposed to moisture?

That sounds great, but unfortunately those don't seem to be available as singles? I'm going to go with AP elf or barbarian flesh instead as a compromise.

:( :respek: :(

Pretty much, I always have to water them down a lot and then wick off moisture. Nothing ever covers well at base consistency so I underpaint an ochre, wine red, or dark reddish purple.

My lazy skin tone is actually just a light khaki then gulliman flesh contrast or reikland flesh shade.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




mllaneza posted:

Night Shift is also a good channel for diorama and vignette work, mostly tanks but he makes really nice terrain to put them on. https://www.youtube.com/c/NightShiftScaleModels

Night Shift is worth a few watches, not just because of his technical skills, but his insistence on priming perfectly good grass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE4wvFbf2IU&t=587s

The end result is amazing.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I've tried GSW and reaper and citadel and they're all kind of junk. I get best results when I use literal glazing medium instead. I have a vortex mixer too.

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Spanish Manlove posted:

Pretty much, I always have to water them down a lot and then wick off moisture. Nothing ever covers well at base consistency so I underpaint an ochre, wine red, or dark reddish purple.

My lazy skin tone is actually just a light khaki then gulliman flesh contrast or reikland flesh shade.
That sounds weirdly the opposite of my problem. I can reach for my Reikland Midlund with a slightly damp brush and sploosh, drat thing flows everywhere. I'm left with a completely opaque bright Caucasian pink in every recess and the faintest whiff of skin on any raised surface and I could not imagine washing anything with this.


Edit: Wait I'm mixing up the protagonist homelands of two completely different miniature companies. Mine's P3 Midlund!!

Siivola fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Sep 8, 2022

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Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 18 days!
My current Caucasian skin tone recipe is as follows:

1. Paint a basecoat of a color that works with whatever level of paleness/ruddiness/tan-ness I'm trying to achieve

2. Apply Guilliman Flesh or similar Contrast paint/Speedpaint

3. Pick out a few highlights if desired

4. Done :v:

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