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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006





This is the right call if you're on city water.

I am on well water and have something like this. Pump lasted ~48 hours with about 25% duty cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Basement-Wat...ps%2C79&sr=8-31

Battery sold separately, though that company has batteries available for purchase separately. The battery I have is a BW27-AGM (https://www.amazon.com/BASEMENT-WATCHDOG-BW-27AGM-Maintenance-Battery/dp/B077XL42DJ).

YMMV, you should work out the duty cycle and flowrate of your current pump and compare that to the emergency options you're looking at. I have a portable generator now as the power was out for ~3.5 days and I was getting nervous about the battery after getting the low battery warning alarm at about the 45 hour mark. If you're on city water get the water powered pump.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Also I forgot I came here to complain that I just put a toilet back in a bathroom I painted and the roughin is like, 10 7/8". Which is just far enough to jam a 12" roughin toilet against the wall if you don't center it exactly, apparently. Both of my other toilets are 12"+. It's possible those two were fixed to be more modern, since both of those rooms have new tile floor and this has older tile in it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

TrueChaos posted:

This is the right call if you're on city water.

I am on well water and have something like this. Pump lasted ~48 hours with about 25% duty cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Basement-Wat...ps%2C79&sr=8-31

Battery sold separately, though that company has batteries available for purchase separately. The battery I have is a BW27-AGM (https://www.amazon.com/BASEMENT-WATCHDOG-BW-27AGM-Maintenance-Battery/dp/B077XL42DJ).

YMMV, you should work out the duty cycle and flowrate of your current pump and compare that to the emergency options you're looking at. I have a portable generator now as the power was out for ~3.5 days and I was getting nervous about the battery after getting the low battery warning alarm at about the 45 hour mark. If you're on city water get the water powered pump.

This is great and all, but every time I see a solution like this I have to ask: how frequently are you changing the battery and how do you know when that need to be done? Also, were all of you calcs based on a new battery? If so how long are they valid?

How much your answers matter depend entirely on how much is at risk and how much that kind of money matters to you of course, but my point is that this isn't the same for everyone.

E: also, whenever I see poo poo like this silkscreened on the side of a commodity sized battery I know I'm getting taken for a ride:

Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Sep 7, 2022

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni
But it says it’s maintenance free!!
:downs:

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

At this point I am 100% team backup generator and keep ~20 gallons of fuel on hand

Boomers are all in nursing homes on priority circuits at this point, they have no incentive to maintain or fund the grid

My buddy in Colombia, south america has more reliable power than I do, despite living within cancer distance of both a nuclear and two gas power plants

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Motronic posted:

This is great and all, but every time I see a solution like this I have to ask: how frequently are you changing the battery and how do you know when that need to be done? Also, were all of you calcs based on a new battery? If so how long are they valid?

How much your answers matter depend entirely on how much is at risk and how much that kind of money matters to you of course, but my point is that this isn't the same for everyone.

E: also, whenever I see poo poo like this silkscreened on the side of a commodity sized battery I know I'm getting taken for a ride:



I did not do any calculations, the setup came with the house - I'm reporting real world results / observations. I haven't touched the battery in the 3 years we've been here, outside of charging it with a tender off my generator during the 3+ day power outage (on the off chance the generator kicked out I wanted the battery charged), but I think there's a date stamped on it from Jan/2019. The pump setup comes with a trickle charger, monitors the voltage and cuts off appropriately so as not to overcharge, and includes a battery health light. Regardless, I'll be replacing it at the 5-year mark unless it errors out earlier.

No, they don't have detailed specifications listed for the battery anywhere that I can find, nor do they have power draw info for the 12VDC pump it runs. The only indication is 80hrs @ 10% duty cycle (so 8 hours continuous). I got 12 (well probably closer to 10) hours continuous out of it, as inflow was slowing post-storm and the duty cycle likely dropped down. It also doesn't see a ton of use - we probably lose power monthly, and the only time my sump is dry is late September / October.

Obviously everyone's use case is different. This is in an unfinished basement where a failure wouldn't be fun but wouldn't be the end of the world - everyone's risk case is going to be different. I did indicate that the water powered backup was the way to go if you had city water pressure, and was just showing this as an option for those who don't.

Anza Borrego posted:

But it says it’s maintenance free!!
:downs:

AGM batteries are maintenance free compared to lead/acid where you have to add water.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Speaking of sump pumps, is there anyway to really assess the health of one? I know ours was replaced shortly before we moved into the home in January 2016, so it's coming up on 7 years old now.

e:

Motronic posted:

So really this comes down to a few factors that matter: how much you are home vs. risk tolerance. And like.....if I didn't use gas for mowers and stuff I sure wouldn't have a gas generator around because it would just be a PITA with stale fuel, etc.

I mean....hell....the last time I needed my portable generator is was amazingly screwed up because I left the fuel cut off turned on and the entire oil sump was full of fuel. So I guess good thing I have the ability and materials to just change the oil doing a hurricane.

poo poo this reminds me, time for my quarterly generator run

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

brugroffil posted:

Speaking of sump pumps, is there anyway to really assess the health of one? I know ours was replaced shortly before we moved into the home in January 2016, so it's coming up on 7 years old now.

If they don't normally run or rarely run you should be dumping a bucket of water in there or running a house into the sump pit on a regular (maybe every 6 months) basis.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Motronic posted:

This is great and all, but every time I see a solution like this I have to ask: how frequently are you changing the battery and how do you know when that need to be done? Also, were all of you calcs based on a new battery? If so how long are they valid?

How much your answers matter depend entirely on how much is at risk and how much that kind of money matters to you of course, but my point is that this isn't the same for everyone.

E: also, whenever I see poo poo like this silkscreened on the side of a commodity sized battery I know I'm getting taken for a ride:



Hey, I just did a ton of research on this!

This is the combo pump I went with. It’s stronger than yours so may not work for you. It’s very similar to all the others posted before me, just 1/2 HP.

WAYNE - 1/2 HP Sump Pump with Integrated Vertical Float Switch and 12 Volt Battery Back Up Capability, Battery Not Included - Up to 5,100 Gallons Per Hour - Heavy Duty Basement Sump Pump System https://a.co/d/5816b8t

Rule is to never ever buy the battery from the pump manufacturer. They’re garbage. Instead, get the max battery spec of the charger (if you don’t know anything about batteries, you need the group size, and to get an AGM Deep cycle battery with the correct connectors (clip or screw posts)).

Then you go to a marine parts store (or an RV parts store if you don’t live near a body of water) and you spend $300 on a monster battery from a reputable company. Since these are built for boat use (to start boats, run electronics when anchored) or RVs, they get used constantly and people don’t accept when they gently caress around. So you’re much more likely to get your hands on something decent.

I think the battery I bought will run the backup pump for something like nearly 48 hours.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

TrueChaos posted:

AGM batteries are maintenance free compared to lead/acid where you have to add water.

Gel cells are also maintenence free and both are still lead acid. Wet cells are the ones where you have to monitor and maintain your electrolyte and pH.

:goonsay:

I'm sorry.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

Motronic posted:

100% when you're on utility water.

Flooding tends to gently caress the city water also, see every hurricane where the water mains wash out or the city pumps lose all power etc.

Nitrousoxide
May 30, 2011

do not buy a oneplus phone



slurm posted:

Flooding tends to gently caress the city water also, see every hurricane where the water mains wash out or the city pumps lose all power etc.

If the city water pumps get submerged and/or loose power due to a hurricane I doubt a battery or generator backed 1/3hp sump pump is gonna keep up with the 3 feet of water trying to get in my house then.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




H110Hawk posted:

Gel cells are also maintenence free and both are still lead acid. Wet cells are the ones where you have to monitor and maintain your electrolyte and pH.

:goonsay:

I'm sorry.

Don't be sorry, I wasn't being specific enough! :hfive:

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
We've lived here for 4 years, and I've never tested our sump pump (and it's never run, as far as I can tell from the discharge outside). We are the high point on our street, but our neighbors 3+ doors down have all had water issues and pumps that run constantly with big rain events.

How would I access the pit to test it? It's also part of our passive radon system, so the pit has been sealed. Is there a retrofit cover I could use to be able to inspect and test a bit easier? I could pull this cover and reseal it, but that's a fair bit of work to do every spring with all the other post-winter upkeep.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Uh, if you can't pour water in there, how will water from your basement walls get in

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


PitViper posted:

We've lived here for 4 years, and I've never tested our sump pump (and it's never run, as far as I can tell from the discharge outside). We are the high point on our street, but our neighbors 3+ doors down have all had water issues and pumps that run constantly with big rain events.

How would I access the pit to test it? It's also part of our passive radon system, so the pit has been sealed. Is there a retrofit cover I could use to be able to inspect and test a bit easier? I could pull this cover and reseal it, but that's a fair bit of work to do every spring with all the other post-winter upkeep.



I replaced the cover to my pit with this one when I installed my radon mitigation system and it's pretty great: https://smile.amazon.com/Original-Radon-Sump-Dome-Model/dp/B073V3RV5X/ You'll have to replace a couple sections of PVC and buy a couple rubber couplings to install it. I really like having the little window.

If you want to test the pump the quick and dirty way you could unplug the pump and remove one of those rubber couplings on the ejection side, dump in 6-10gal of water, replace pipe and coupling and plug your pump back in.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Hadlock posted:

Uh, if you can't pour water in there, how will water from your basement walls get in

From the pipes under the slab that feed into it.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Hadlock posted:

Boomers are all in nursing homes on priority circuits at this point, they have no incentive to maintain or fund the grid

My buddy in Colombia, south america has more reliable power than I do, despite living within cancer distance of both a nuclear and two gas power plants
Just had an argument with my mom about this because she felt the need to bitch about electrical costs to me and I let into her about how she's voted toward this outcome for decades.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

StormDrain posted:

From the pipes under the slab that feed into it.

Name/post combo checks out :hmmyes:

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

I need some blinds for two garage windows. Don't care too much about style - just need to prevent the neighbors from seeing me workout in my undies.

I was looking at ordering some cellular blinds from Home Depot but I don't know anything - recommendations?

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!

Hadlock posted:

Uh, if you can't pour water in there, how will water from your basement walls get in

Already answered, but yes. Drain tile all around the form poured stem walls, if water has to go in the pit from the concrete floor then all hope is already lost, and it may as well just flow out the patio slider door

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

Harriet Carker posted:

I need some blinds for two garage windows. Don't care too much about style - just need to prevent the neighbors from seeing me workout in my undies.

I was looking at ordering some cellular blinds from Home Depot but I don't know anything - recommendations?

If you're looking for cheap but effective, I recommend blindster.com. I've put them throughout a couple of houses and they both work well and are way less expensive than LowesDepot in my experience. Use their measuring charts and specify your dimensions and they'll cut them to size and send you all the super easy install hardware.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

There's also window cling privacy film. It's cheap, cuts to size. I used a frosted one at my old apartment.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Beef Of Ages posted:

If you're looking for cheap but effective, I recommend blindster.com. I've put them throughout a couple of houses and they both work well and are way less expensive than LowesDepot in my experience. Use their measuring charts and specify your dimensions and they'll cut them to size and send you all the super easy install hardware.
Cosigned.

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

phosdex posted:

There's also window cling privacy film. It's cheap, cuts to size. I used a frosted one at my old apartment.

This is what I use. My front door has a small glass pane that the psychopath previous owner didn't cover up, letting everyone look in freely.

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

I probably need to replace my water heater before too long - the old one is old and the inspector noted pipe corrosion.

Is this something I should just do now? How far can I push it? It’s a gas 40 gallon tank and I think I’d be fine with the same. The only issue I have with it now is it takes a few minutes to get hot water to the shower but I’m not sure if that can be improved.

What do I need to think about and what questions do I need to ask when I call around? Any idea what price range is reasonable for Pacific Northwest?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
It's cheaper to do before it's failed, and a lot cheaper than if it explodes in your garage, and further a LOT cheaper than if it explodes in your house.

How old? Picture of the corrosion? As that is likely sloppy soldering of the pipe but if it's not...

Just call around, if no code upgrades are needed any lowesdepot contractor can install one, but call a couple plumbers to ask.

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

It’s unclear how old it is. I can’t find a date anywhere. It’s in the garage on concrete so I guess not the end of the world if it leaks.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



With that vented flue cap I’m guessing 1980s at the newest.

Nothing wrong in that photo, especially for a unit that old.

I’d replace it at your leisure; we rarely have the luxury of planning.

I had a 1960 gas unit in my house when we bought it in 1992. Replaced it once I realized that it had sat, full, for over two years that the house was vacant. The water that came out was black & chunky.

It was working fine. Had a pilot light.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Harriet Carker posted:

It’s unclear how old it is. I can’t find a date anywhere. It’s in the garage on concrete so I guess not the end of the world if it leaks.



The real question is how much a plumber is going to charge you to schedule a replacement in a month or whenever they're available, vs how much they'll charge you to come in the day after tomorrow because it shat itself last weekend and you're tired of not having hot water.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Anything I should know about before purchasing a push lawn mower? I want to have one picked out before I close in a week. I'm looking at the wirecutter pick which is a cordless electric self-propelled Ego LM2135SP which they say runs for an hour and lets you use the same battery in a separate weed trimmer. My lot will be a whopping 0.15 acres and borders a mature forest one one side. Most of the lot is level except for a slope in the middle which is pretty gradual except for one point which I'd estimate has a 20% grade at the very steepest.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I have an EGO power leaf blower and I Like It A Lot

I'm sure you're sold on the battery electric for a reason, but I'll just point out that I mowed our hilly 0.15 lawn with a much, much cheaper ($150 vs $600) corded electric mower as a 6-12 year old for years without issue

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I feel like my 6 year old would struggle with mowing the lawn but good to know.

Phuzun
Jul 4, 2007

kreeningsons posted:

Anything I should know about before purchasing a push lawn mower? I want to have one picked out before I close in a week. I'm looking at the wirecutter pick which is a cordless electric self-propelled Ego LM2135SP which they say runs for an hour and lets you use the same battery in a separate weed trimmer. My lot will be a whopping 0.15 acres and borders a mature forest one one side. Most of the lot is level except for a slope in the middle which is pretty gradual except for one point which I'd estimate has a 20% grade at the very steepest.

I recently bought an Ego mower, the self propelled version with 7.5ah battery. I have a similar sized lot and it takes about half the battery to mow. The extra $100 for the propelled version was worth it to be a bit lazier and just walk behind. Also got the string trimmer and blower combo which are nice for finishing up the yard, the 2.5ah battery is much lighter than the 7.5 out of the mower when hanging off the back of the tool.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


I have the human-propelled version of that Ego mower and think its great. My lot is basically flat though except for parts on the city strip. Its overall a very light mower so not difficult to push at all.

I have since picked up an Ego leaf blower and snow blower, they're all great.

Abyss
Oct 29, 2011
I have a corded mower and I hate mowing the lawn every time I have to use it. I'd rather have the smallest gas mower possible than what I have, but it's worked for the past 5 years and mower costs seem to have increased by $100 or more across the board so I'm less likely to invest in a new one.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Hadlock posted:

I'm sure you're sold on the battery electric for a reason, but I'll just point out that I mowed our hilly 0.15 lawn with a much, much cheaper ($150 vs $600) corded electric mower as a 6-12 year old for years without issue

Yes my reason was having to mow my grandfather's lawn at age 12 with a corded electric mower. The cord had so many of his shoddy repairs that it used to shock me whenever I moved it. Basically I've been conditioned with electric shock to hate corded mowers.

Sounds like Ego is well regarded in the thread. Thanks all.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

PainterofCrap posted:

Oh, but it is!

Quite a few contractors in the 1950s & early 60s copied / cargo-culted the Levitt model of burying infrastructure in the slab. Based on professional experience, they mostly went with running round ducts - sometimes reinforced cardboard(!) under the slab rather than copper pipe for floor heating. It was definitely cheaper to do it that way, and maybe they couldn't get the really thick copper piping Levitt used - I certainly have never found 1/8"-thick-walled 1/2" copper piping in any other house - poo poo weighed a ton, but the lime in the slab got to it eventually.

The cheapest copycat bastards laid foil-wrapped cardboard right on the dirt.

But I digress.

There's no fun quite like having your buried soil line (primary or secondaries) fail and dump raw sewage in your ductwork. Except maybe having an 8' diameter, 3' high pile of dirt & concrete in your living room (think Richard Dreyfuss and his Devil's Tower in Close Encounters, but without any artistic merit). I had insureds cry when they saw it.

There are at least three of these developments in the Woodbury/Mantua/Deptford (NJ) area, to name a few; these were mostly Cape Cods. The actual Levitt homes (Willingboro in NJ; Levittown in PA) had their copper floor heating systems fail through the 80s and 90s. Ninteen-nineties--early oughts the cast-iron builds started to fail. We were able to get plumbers to fix a few (hence the dirt piles) but gradually gave in to just abandoning the under-slab infrastructure in place & writing to install downdraft units in the attic spaces. The only digging we did after that was for interior water mains/secondary drains, and after a while we treated them like the ducts: abandoning in place & re-routing the water lines up into the attic.

For the soil line failures, we really had no choice when it was in the middle of the house, but to trench. The 2" kitchen galv drains were the loving pits, since we typically had to write to pull the cabinets & sometimes HVAC stacks to get to them.

If the failure was near any perimeter wall we'd see about setting up to running a new soil line outside & around to the main.

.

We had our in-slab ducts lined with https://ductarmor.com/ - which helps to some degree, but since it's essentially a really thick paint it can't handle huge gaps. It at least sealed the asbestos in and fixed up some of them.

I wish that doing CIPP liner in them was really an option, but I feel like it would be cost-prohibitive versus just getting the HVAC moved.

I also wish we hadn't just bought a new downdraft furnance ~6 years ago, because I don't think that can be easily converted to run in the attic :/

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
I'll vouch again for the Black & Decker mower and whacker that takes their 60v batteries. The mower is super lightweight, cuts great and has 2 battery slots if you have a big lawn. The whacker is easy to use and replacement parts are easily found from B&D.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Harriet Carker posted:

I probably need to replace my water heater before too long - the old one is old and the inspector noted pipe corrosion.

Is this something I should just do now? How far can I push it? It’s a gas 40 gallon tank and I think I’d be fine with the same. The only issue I have with it now is it takes a few minutes to get hot water to the shower but I’m not sure if that can be improved.

What do I need to think about and what questions do I need to ask when I call around? Any idea what price range is reasonable for Pacific Northwest?

Go ahead and get it done now. Do you have an expansion tank? They'll need to add one if not, so that's a little more expensive.

Also when they come for an estimate don't be surprised if they have one ready to install that day. It's a tactic to lock in a sale right then.

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