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Dad replaced his alternator trying to fix a battery drain  I'm thinking its more likely this dealer alarm I found in 10 seconds:  Unplugged, but the car won't start without it. Is there a way to uninstall this quickly? My next guess is to follow the pink ignition wire.
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Sep 18, 2022 03:32
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Yeah, it probably interrupts the ignition hot or ground wires. gently caress aftermarket alarms and remote starts. Good luck with your wire tracing.
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Sep 18, 2022 04:09
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6 and 8 are probably the wires you're looking for. If you splice them together you should have a working starter, assuming there's not an external relay wired in. 7 should have power anytime the ignition is on, so uh, don't short it. Obviously it's best to rip it all out, but you want to at least get the car to start before tearing it all apart. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Sep 18, 2022 |
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Sep 18, 2022 05:47
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GreenBuckanneer, if you were a few hours south in Mass I'd spin by myself  Maine is a long drive for my poo poo boxes on limited time though. There are a few old timer AI posters in Maine but I can't really volunteer them for things and they don't post much anymore.Trace all the aftermarket wiring from it, disconnect anything teed in, when you find the two wires from it that are spliced into two single wires that oddly happen to be the same color (there may be a relay and socket involved that's otherwise only wired to the alarm) splice em back together and I bet it'll start. So basically what STR said. I've had to do this without a wiring diagram before due to it being destroyed by the nasty tape the installer wrapped around literally everything. There's the off chance they set it to impersonate the chip key reader module (if any) so the car would remote start without the chip key present, but only if it's a combo alarm and remote start system.
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Sep 18, 2022 16:53
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kastein posted:GreenBuckanneer, if you were a few hours south in Mass I'd spin by myself Yeah unfortunately boston is a 3 hour drive for me, I miss living there but it's so expensive
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Sep 18, 2022 16:57
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Chunjee posted:Dad replaced his alternator trying to fix a battery drain Not to be a buzzkill but did you verify the parasitic draw and that it goes away when that module is unplugged?
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Sep 18, 2022 17:05
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Hello. I have 2 stupid questions for the stupid questions thread. 1) Tire storage. Is it a problem to store tires that are not mounted? Anything special I should know about? Would be in a thermal controlled storage, but not humidity. Probably on the dry side. 2) Are there services out there that would do something like take your car to various places to have work done on it? Like mechanic, body work, head unit upgrade, performance tuning, etc? I've got a bunch of work to get done and it's not easy for me to get to each of these places. Thanks goons.
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Sep 18, 2022 19:22
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Tire storage is pretty easy, the biggest thing is keeping light off them. Black garbage bags work great. They still age out even without UV so don’t store them too long.
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Sep 19, 2022 01:18
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Internet Explorer posted:Hello. I have 2 stupid questions for the stupid questions thread. Taskrabbit maybe?
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Sep 19, 2022 02:35
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Are you able to arrange the work with the various places, and just need the car transported there, or do you need someone to project manage everything?
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Sep 19, 2022 11:29
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I'm slowly getting the diy door panels done on my '65 Dart (about the only thing I can do in my apartment) and got thinking about the clips. I won't be using self tappers like the previous person did, but looking at the vintage clips I'm not that confident in how they attach or require the board to be split as I'm also using treated hardboard (so not as easy to split the layers in a good way). I've seen people mentioning stuff like 3M Dual Lock strips and the like. I could probably also put in normal plastic clips, but I want to avoid visible bumps in the panel. Anyone have any good idea of better solutions than the stock clips (that are also pretty expensive)? The panels won't be original, so that part doesn't matter.
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Sep 19, 2022 |
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Sep 19, 2022 12:41
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99 Ford Ranger, manual transmission, 4 cylinder engine. I've been noticing lately when I'm driving through town in 3rd or 4th gear where I'm just barely tapping the gas to maintain 30mph, I'll get a couple of seconds of load after removing my foot from the gas pedal (not necessarily acceleration, but it's like my foot is staying on the gas) before it tapers off. It doesn't do it if I'm actually accelerating, only if I'm in that coasting mode. Is this something I should try to fix/should be worried about? I'm not sure if this is a recent development or not. I'm just driving the ranger a lot more right now because my BRZ is in the shop, so I'm noticing more quirks. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Sep 19, 2022 |
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Sep 19, 2022 12:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'm slowly getting the diy door panels done on my '65 Dart (about the only thing I can do in my apartment) and got thinking about the clips. I won't be using self tappers like the previous person did, but looking at the vintage clips I'm not that confident in how they attach or require the board to be split as I'm also using treated hardboard (so not as easy to split the layers in a good way). I've seen people mentioning stuff like 3M Dual Lock strips and the like. I could probably also put in normal plastic clips, but I want to avoid visible bumps in the panel. Anyone have any good idea of better solutions than the stock clips (that are also pretty expensive)? The panels won't be original, so that part doesn't matter. As well- & over-built as cars were in the 1960s, they really liked their pressed cardboard door inserts. Chrysler liked to have these lovely metal friction clips inserted in slots in the cardboard, which was probably fine when the thing was built but were an absolute bitch to remove 20-30 years on, and if you didn't know exactly how they were assembled, you tended to rip the cardboard right off the clips. My suggestion would be to reinforce the perimeter with a thin piece of sheetmetal glued & clamped to the cardboard, with recesses cut into the board to hold the clips between the cardboard & the metal. This will work best if you know exactly where the holes in the door are, because the clips are designed to float a bit to catch the holes, and that option will be gone once they're fixed in place. In the alternative you could try dispensing entirely with the metal spring clips and use either modern nylon plugs, or just glue velcro strips around the perimeter & to the door frame face. OR use finish stainless screws with the built-in washer along the bottom of the panel, and velcro along the verticals. My Pontiac uses screws along the bottom, and they look fine. 
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Sep 19, 2022 13:59
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Would it be safe to put a piece of red electrical tape on my battery near the positive terminal so I can tell which is positive at a glance rather than having to look at the dirty battery top for the black + sign? I'd think so but IDK if there's something I'm not considering.
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Sep 19, 2022 15:59
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Wrap it around the cable? Probably won’t stick to the battery long.
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Sep 19, 2022 16:55
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Do you have access to a paint pen? Any color would work just to make it visible. Tape would not be an issue other than the aforementioned lack of permanence. AFewBricksShy posted:99 Ford Ranger, manual transmission, 4 cylinder engine. My top two thoughts would be a vacuum leak or maybe a return spring in the throttle body area. Vacuum leak should be dealt with promptly; you can spray something flammable like carb cleaner around and see if the RPM goes up. I’m sure YouTube has a plethora of ‘how to find vacuum leaks’ videos. The return spring thought is projection on my part. I have a similar issue and the only thing left to pull off is my throttle body sensor. The spring doesn’t seem to return to zero after 300,000 miles.
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Sep 19, 2022 17:02
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The terminals themselves are lead aren't they? Just gouge a + and - in the tops of them with a knife
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Sep 19, 2022 17:20
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:The terminals themselves are lead aren't they? Just gouge a + and - in the tops of them with a knife Can't, my negative terminal already says NO and the positive FATE.
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Sep 19, 2022 18:44
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Advent Horizon posted:Tire storage is pretty easy, the biggest thing is keeping light off them. Black garbage bags work great. Good to know. I guess I was curious if there's issues with them losing shape or maybe some potential issue with wear of being mounted/unmounted every season. builds character posted:Taskrabbit maybe? Interesting. Hadn't thought about that. I haven't use any services like that before. Will do some research. InitialDave posted:Are you able to arrange the work with the various places, and just need the car transported there, or do you need someone to project manage everything? I can arrange the work, really just looking for the transport. If there was someone to project manage it and just go over costs, that would be amazing.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:30
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Internet Explorer posted:Good to know. I guess I was curious if there's issues with them losing shape or maybe some potential issue with wear of being mounted/unmounted every season. I’ve heard arguments about the shape but I think radial tires are generally fine. I store mine laid down. Mounting and dismounting can be an issue, though. I had one set of tires that lost chunks of bead doing that, though that was 20 years ago. I have a second set of wheels with my snow tires for that reason.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:36
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Internet Explorer posted:Good to know. I guess I was curious if there's issues with them losing shape or maybe some potential issue with wear of being mounted/unmounted every season. No to the former, yes to that latter. Not to mention it's not exactly cheap for a mount/balance twice a year. It pretty quickly adds up to "just buy a set of wheels for the winter" being the better option in every way.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:38
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Thanks for all the info! Much appreciated. I previously had both sets mounted and just swapped them. Trying to figure out new rims, new vehicle, and how much storage I need to devote to it into this seemingly smaller and smaller two car garage.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:44
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Especially because you can go to a junkyard and get wheels for like... $25 each I think at the Denver u-pull-and-pay off of Pena? You're in Denver, right? I think it's like $15 for the wheel and $10 to get the old tire pulled off it but I haven't been there in a while. You have to get them off the car though, I think the junkyard in Littleton south of E-470 has them already pulled off the vehicle so you can just grab them and go but I don't know their price. E: Do you have rafters in your garage? I've never installed it myself so I won't speak on that but having storage up in the rafters of a lofted-roof garage is pretty fantastic.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:44
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I keep my tires on the top shelf and I don’t even want to think about hauling them into an attic. If the tires are in a good garbage bag you can leave them outside.
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Sep 19, 2022 19:48
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Especially because you can go to a junkyard and get wheels for like... $25 each I think at the Denver u-pull-and-pay off of Pena? You're in Denver, right? I think it's like $15 for the wheel and $10 to get the old tire pulled off it but I haven't been there in a while. You have to get them off the car though, I think the junkyard in Littleton south of E-470 has them already pulled off the vehicle so you can just grab them and go but I don't know their price. I am definitely not of the skillset or mindset of "go to a junkyard." No rafters. Although I did store my tires at a place when we were in Denver. Maybe I'll just continue to go that route and have two sets of tires less clutter in the garage. Thanks again thread!
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Sep 19, 2022 19:49
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PainterofCrap posted:As well- & over-built as cars were in the 1960s, they really liked their pressed cardboard door inserts. Chrysler liked to have these lovely metal friction clips inserted in slots in the cardboard, which was probably fine when the thing was built but were an absolute bitch to remove 20-30 years on, and if you didn't know exactly how they were assembled, you tended to rip the cardboard right off the clips. Those look pretty good and yeah, I agree with the clips looking lovely to use. I was pretty surprised when I looked up the original friction clips and saw how they looked and how they are supposed to be fitted. Expensive as hell for what they are as well. The board I'm using is more of a fiber board that has been impregnated with oil so the moisture resistance is pretty good (but will be putting on a vapor barrier as well) and it's pretty solid. I'll see what I can get hold of and do some tests, but probably going to ditch the original style clips if I can make another solution work. The panel is also held in by the armrest (when I'm able to find some) and some of the chrome trim pieces (and maybe the handles), so some industrial style velcro/lock strips might be enough. These door panels will be a cheap learning experience just to get it livable (need to be in a decent state for inspection).
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Sep 20, 2022 07:23
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Internet Explorer posted:Interesting. Hadn't thought about that. I haven't use any services like that before. Will do some research. Let me know what you find out, I am looking at cars in Denver but a couple are at dealerships and I wouldn't be able to get down early enough in the day to take them to a shop for an inspection. If I can pay someone a little bit to take them to the shop and get them checked out then that solves the problem for me.
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Sep 20, 2022 20:07
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Hello friends. I'm 3200 miles into a ~6500 mile road trip, and I think my truck (2008 Tundra, 5.7L V8, 141k miles) is developing some kinda issue. Or I noticed a vibration and am turning into a hypochondriac. When accelerating from 0, there's noticeable vibration (that I think is new...) from around 15-35mph. Roads here in upstate new york are mostly poo poo so it's tough to determine if its real/new or an existing Thing that only seems worse because of the roads. Either way, it goes away at higher speeds, is totally gone at highway speeds, and doesn't seem to be present when coasting. Any theories? Will I die before we make it home? Will we be stranded in whichever part of the middle of the country is most inconvenient?
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Sep 20, 2022 20:14
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Bloody posted:Hello friends. I'm 3200 miles into a ~6500 mile road trip, and I think my truck (2008 Tundra, 5.7L V8, 141k miles) is developing some kinda issue. Or I noticed a vibration and am turning into a hypochondriac. When accelerating from 0, there's noticeable vibration (that I think is new...) from around 15-35mph. Roads here in upstate new york are mostly poo poo so it's tough to determine if its real/new or an existing Thing that only seems worse because of the roads. Either way, it goes away at higher speeds, is totally gone at highway speeds, and doesn't seem to be present when coasting. Any theories? Will I die before we make it home? Will we be stranded in whichever part of the middle of the country is most inconvenient? Go to a tire shop and get the wheel balance checked. Hopefully you just lost a wheel weight when hitting a pothole. Hhopefully it's just that and not bent. 35mph is classic wheel balance issues.
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Sep 20, 2022 20:37
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Advent Horizon posted:My top two thoughts would be a vacuum leak or maybe a return spring in the throttle body area. Vacuum leak should be dealt with promptly; you can spray something flammable like carb cleaner around and see if the RPM goes up. I’m sure YouTube has a plethora of ‘how to find vacuum leaks’ videos. I had some maf cleaner that I tried, but i didn’t get any areas that made it seem to run higher. Could it just be a dirty throttle body? The throttle spring and cable seem fine
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Sep 20, 2022 22:15
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nitrogen posted:I am absolutely not a fan of aftermarket remote start kits especially on newer vehicles. Chunjee posted:Dad replaced his alternator trying to fix a battery drain Tire storage chat: Amazon sells nylon covers for a stack of tires for a very reasonable price. The garbage bags are still a good idea, but these would help keep the garbage bag in better shape over nine months of disuse.
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Sep 20, 2022 23:56
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'99 Impreza, when I hit 1500RPM I get a metal grinding noise, but only right as I pass it, it lasts for maybe 1/4-1/2 of a second. When I hover around there I can't replicate it so it's either a very specific RPM that triggers it or it doesn't last even at that RPM. Any ideas? It's at 230k miles so I'm worried that there's something in the transmission or something. All the CV axles are good and all the wheel bearings are good, I just got it out of the shop for a wheel bearing and they replaced a CV axle while they were in there. It was doing this before the mechanic visit but I forgot to mention it. E: Actually I can get it to last if I hover right around 1450 or so, it's tricky to maintain. I'm thinking it's the transmission, this thing is still on its original transmission and has taken a teenager learning to drive stick on it. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Sep 21, 2022 |
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Sep 21, 2022 00:43
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PBCrunch posted:As for uninstalling that alarm, you're going to be looking for a factory wire that is cut and then each end has a different color of alarm wire connected to it. Reconnect the cut factory wire. Ah. Makes perfect sense. Thank you.
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Sep 21, 2022 02:18
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PBCrunch posted:Believe it or not, installs of remote starts on really new cars can actually be done very cleanly in some cases. On some cars, the remote start module just needs the antenna run somewhere up high, then it connects to +12V, GND, a couple of Canbus wires, and that's it. Garbage bags are bad, since they're not sealed they dew up inside and get nasty since they don't breathe. You're better off with fabric that breathes or fully sealing them up.
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Sep 21, 2022 02:49
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22 Eargesplitten posted:'99 Impreza, when I hit 1500RPM I get a metal grinding noise, but only right as I pass it, it lasts for maybe 1/4-1/2 of a second. When I hover around there I can't replicate it so it's either a very specific RPM that triggers it or it doesn't last even at that RPM. Any ideas? It's at 230k miles so I'm worried that there's something in the transmission or something. All the CV axles are good and all the wheel bearings are good, I just got it out of the shop for a wheel bearing and they replaced a CV axle while they were in there. It was doing this before the mechanic visit but I forgot to mention it. Check your heat shields?
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Sep 21, 2022 13:15
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Bloody posted:Hello friends. I'm 3200 miles into a ~6500 mile road trip, and I think my truck (2008 Tundra, 5.7L V8, 141k miles) is developing some kinda issue. Or I noticed a vibration and am turning into a hypochondriac. When accelerating from 0, there's noticeable vibration (that I think is new...) from around 15-35mph. Roads here in upstate new york are mostly poo poo so it's tough to determine if its real/new or an existing Thing that only seems worse because of the roads. Either way, it goes away at higher speeds, is totally gone at highway speeds, and doesn't seem to be present when coasting. Any theories? Will I die before we make it home? Will we be stranded in whichever part of the middle of the country is most inconvenient? update: in addition to some possibly-new vibration under acceleration, the noise is more reliably reproducible. I took a video to capture the sound, linked at a good timestamp to hear it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiHK8LyCdrU&t=40s it's all only under acceleration, and not present when coasting, so wheel balance seems unlikely to me.
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Sep 21, 2022 16:27
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Bloody posted:update: in addition to some possibly-new vibration under acceleration, the noise is more reliably reproducible. I took a video to capture the sound, linked at a good timestamp to hear it: Sounds like a bad serp belt/bad accessory. Does this happen with the AC both on and off? If it does my next suspect would be the alternator. If any of this is an issue I'm going to guess the belt will show it. Or it's an original 2008 belt that simply needs to be replaced.
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Sep 21, 2022 16:38
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mobby_6kl posted:Can anyone recognize what sort of connector is on these washer pumps? It's my Honda Fit Thanks everyone for confirming the connector! It was just rotated 180 degrees so the latch was on the wrong side. Today looked like it would be a reasonably nice day for the first and maybe last time in weeks so I took some time to replace the windshield washer. Since June I had the front and rear washer swapped because the pump somehow exploded, so to use it I had to turn on the rear wiper and then washer, while simultaneously also turning on the front wipers. Quite a pain in the rear end, but I could get away with it during the summer. I wasn't able to find any specs on the OEM pump so had to kind of wing it. The closest one I could find is this one, intended for various Hondas including the Civic 1988-2004. Close enough, right?  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32869072473.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.6e531802jejWkJ   There were... some slight issues.
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Sep 21, 2022 17:40
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I just replaced the battery in my 2017 Mazda3 touring. I wanted to save a couple of bucks and that's probably the simplest repair there is, right? so I did it myself. Kinda annoyed that the cost of the battery after I traded in the old one was $220, which is only $40 cheaper than what the mechanic wanted. Anyway, that's not what I'm asking about. The original battery (thus the need to replace it since it's five years old now) had this sort of plastic and foam sleeve around it. I pulled the old battery out and tried to plunk the new battery into that sleeve, but it wouldn't fit. I took the sleeve out and installed the new battery and the car started up fine. I'm just looking for confirmation that the sleeve thing isn't necessary. The new battery is slightly girthier than the old one was, so the sleeve around the old one just doesn't fit around the new one. I've got it tightened down and everything seems fine to me, but this is the first time I've put a battery into this car, or any car built more recently than the late 90's. Here's a pic of the old battery and the sleeve around it. Thanks!
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Sep 21, 2022 19:27
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How does the new battery look in the car? I could see that sleeve being used to hold a smaller battery tightly into a larger space.
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Sep 21, 2022 20:06
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