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GreenBuckanneer posted:blue threadlock is: I want to be able to unscrew this by hand Yes, but what does red vs blue bottle mean?
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Sep 25, 2022 04:09
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ryanrs posted:Yes, but what does red vs blue bottle mean? I don't understand the question. I thought I already explained it.
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Sep 25, 2022 04:11
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I think it’s a bad design/marketing decision. I don’t know of any other reason for that.
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Sep 25, 2022 04:12
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 Bottle color has no relation to threadlocker color/strength. Beware, many have made this mistake.
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Sep 25, 2022 04:16
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yeah, my blue loctite is in a red bottle, and my red loctite is in a blue bottle. i have no idea why it is that way.
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Sep 25, 2022 04:20
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Real answer is different brands. Both companies make red/blue threadlocker liquids, but always ship in company-color bottles. red bottle = loctite blue bottle = permatex Anyway, just thought a warning was in order.
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Sep 25, 2022 04:22
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arent those both the same company, though?
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Sep 25, 2022 04:24
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Same product at different stores here, no larger containers I honestly didn't even notice it was a red bottle apparently Permatex has Orange, Purple, Green, Red, and Blue GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Sep 25, 2022 |
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Sep 25, 2022 04:25
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Right, you don't even notice it until someone hands you a blue Permatex bottle. Then you have a Berenstain Bears moment and nothing makes sense for like 10 minutes.
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Sep 25, 2022 04:32
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I figure now that I have two squirt bottle things, I'd just cover the entire threading in this poo poo and if it doesn't touch the nut who cares I'm fully fine with just blowing my loctite load on these 12? bolts? i almost forgot about the nut ends of the outer tie rod and the nut that attaches to the knuckle, I can probably do that too. Oh, and the two bolts for the ABS sensor should I do this on the control arm ball joint?, probably not, just thinking of what to do to reduce rust going forward. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Sep 25, 2022 |
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Sep 25, 2022 04:34
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Firmly in "stupid questions" territory My car has 9-10" of ground clearance everywhere except the front subframe (7") and a couple inches of exhaust pipe (6.5") If I'm very cautious picking my track and the day (moisture content) I shouldn't have any trouble driving on the beach, right. It's moderately powdery, medium grain east coast sand. Seems like occasionally 2wd trucks with no lift get stuck but generally because they tried crawling through a puffy bit from a stop with no momentum Hadlock fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Sep 25, 2022 |
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Sep 25, 2022 04:39
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I figure now that I have two squirt bottle things, I'd just cover the entire threading in this poo poo and if it doesn't touch the nut who cares Loctite will work as a rust inhibitor since it fills in the gaps moisture would go. That said it's real purpose is making fasteners more stuck. It's bolt glue. I like it a lot for stuff like clutch and flywheel bolts where one backing off would suck. Stuff like ball joints and tie rods that get a cotter pin to lock them in I like antisieze. It also fills the gaps and prevents rust but makes everything easier to remove later. The cotter pin ensures it stays put. Either way don't drench them. A little dab will do you. There's very little open space between threads. Grats on getting it all separated. Edit. I would not loctite the ABS sensor bolt. Antisieze or nothing there.
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Sep 25, 2022 05:17
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I'm looking at potentially trying to remove rust from any of these bolts as a curiosity and it seems like buying myself a bottle of Muriatic acid and soaking the (rusted) bolts and nuts for <1 hour is  honda whisperer posted:Loctite will work as a rust inhibitor since it fills in the gaps moisture would go. That said it's real purpose is making fasteners more stuck. It's bolt glue. I have anti-seize, I'm just theory crafting and collecting knowledge at this point. I only need to remove the tie rod end (which looks extremely rusted, and turning the tie rod end itself turns the entire tie rod, so I'm going to have to be careful to not ruin the inner tie rod) as for the ABS, that's fine, I can use the copper anti-seize I have, I was just thinking of the best way to do this. as long as I don't need to replace the front right ball joint, I should be done tomorrow... edit: one more thing: I was able to get my 15mm socket off the tie rod nut, which made me happy. I used that nice sawsall I posted about, and used one of the Diablos thick metal cutters, and I cut through the tie rod bolt like a hot knife through butter. Maybe 90 seconds of cutting total, and that was with me cutting through a bit, seeing a lot of smoke (probably because of PB Blaster being on the bolt) stopping until the smoke went away, then repeating the process until the bolt was cut. Once the tie rod was detached from the knuckle, I just hit my impact socket w/ my 3lb hammer a few times and it came right off. The blade was even fine, enough to continue using it on other applications later, so I have plenty of blades left over. So loving good. Once I got the knuckle off, and I had laid it on the ground like I originally wanted, the impact wrench removed the nuts immediately as if they weren't even screwed in. I then hit the edge of the wheel hub assembly once with the same hammer and it just came apart in one hammer stroke. Very satisfying. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Sep 25, 2022 |
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Sep 25, 2022 05:19
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm looking at potentially trying to remove rust from any of these bolts as a curiosity and it seems like buying myself a bottle of Muriatic acid and soaking the (rusted) bolts and nuts for <1 hour is If you can find it, Evap-O-Rust is a way better option for rust removal. It is probably better than acid at stripping the rust, but also won't damage the underlying metal no matter how long you soak it, it isn't poisonous or corrosive, and it is reusable hundreds of times. Just pour it through a coffee filter back into the bottle. It isn't as fast as acid, but that's the only downside. I love the stuff.
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Sep 25, 2022 06:35
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Hadlock posted:My car has 9-10" of ground clearance everywhere except the front subframe (7") and a couple inches of exhaust pipe (6.5") I don't think ground clearance matters. If your frame is touching the sand, you are already extremely stuck. What you need is flotation, which means large tires running low pressure. Tell us more about your car and tires.
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Sep 25, 2022 07:23
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Muratic will strip the rust and any plating. It will rust 10x faster after that. Great for preping for zinc plating or paint but I wouldn't use it without some coating after.
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Sep 25, 2022 14:52
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honda whisperer posted:Muratic will strip the rust and any plating. It will rust 10x faster after that. Great for preping for zinc plating or paint but I wouldn't use it without some coating after. I was thinking, why not muriatic then rustoleum? Seems like that would work decently. I likely won't do it tonight, mostly curious of the process.
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Sep 25, 2022 14:54
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I was thinking, why not muriatic then rustoleum? Seems like that would work decently. I likely won't do it tonight, mostly curious of the process. I don't know about your particular application, but your tie rod should have flat sections in it, You put a wrench of the proper size on that and then another in the tie rod end. Also don't forget to loosen the jam nut. Also these suspension things probably have a torque spec. If you don't have a torque wrench you might want to invest in one. Torque those nuts and bolts. Don't forget to get an alignment. *that one weird trick that alignment shops hate* of counting the number of turns it takes to get the tie rod end off is only good for getting things "close enough" once you put everything back together so that you can drive to an alignment shop without things being completely out of whack. Its not a substitute for an actual proper alignment. Also also, if you had to remove the control arm or anything with bushings in them, put it back together with the bolts *snug* but not tight, Then put the car down on the ground, then torque those bolts.
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Sep 25, 2022 15:30
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I was thinking, why not muriatic then rustoleum? Seems like that would work decently. I likely won't do it tonight, mostly curious of the process. Muriatic acid will make the part rust much faster, because of the chloride ions. If you use phosphoric acid, it'll help prevent rust and help paint stick. BUT! I'd buy new bolts before loving around with acid. At some point you should just fix the car and get on with your life, you know? I say this as someone who just spent yesterday pickling and painting some metal parts I can't easily buy.
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Sep 25, 2022 16:06
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Regular old vinegar works fine derusting parts btw, it's slower than the other acids but not nearly as nasty.
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Sep 25, 2022 16:24
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yes or you could all use the evap-o-rust that i mentioned which has over 10,000 5-star reviews on amazon and is better than acid in literally every way except that it might be too slow if you're running a salvage business or something and can't wait 8 hours. seriously don't gently caress around with acid for de-rusting. it's ancient technology. chelation is the new hotness
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Sep 25, 2022 16:39
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Also also, if you had to remove the control arm or anything with bushings in them, put it back together with the bolts *snug* but not tight, Then put the car down on the ground, then torque those bolts. Important detail that a lot of first-timers miss, here. You'll ruin your new parts quick if you torque them in the air.
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Sep 25, 2022 16:42
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Good to know. Do you think I should use evaporust for this?  I'm kind of joking, both tie rod nuts are like this and I'm having great difficulty at taking them off. Of course I see online people using blowtorch but I really didn't want to have to do that. Everything is off at this point. The front right ball joint rubber is a little damaged but the ball joint is stiffer than the other side. I didn't have to cut through the right tie rod end so I could theoretically just not bother on that side. Edit: I haven't touched the control arm or bushings, besides the ball joint of course
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Sep 25, 2022 16:44
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Oh, didn't realize the parts were still attached to the car. Evap-O-Rust works best when you can immerse the parts -- it is possible to do a thing where you wrap the part in soaked paper towels and then in plastic wrap to keep the solution in place, but that might be kind of awkward given the position. I would use a torch in your situation if it's just about loosening the thing up rather than cleaning it. But yes, Evap-O-Rust will remove all of that corrosion and leave nice clean bare metal underneath (whatever is still left).
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Sep 25, 2022 17:04
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https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Multi-Purpose-Trigger-Start-Torch-Head/50126385 Will this be strong enough? I've never used a torch for any application really
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Sep 25, 2022 17:12
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I'm going to suggest that you make a thread.
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Sep 25, 2022 17:26
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ryanrs posted:I don't think ground clearance matters. If your frame is touching the sand, you are already extremely stuck. What you need is flotation, which means large tires running low pressure. 2wd open diff, fwd, unibody construction, 1.1 ton weight, manual transmission; p 165/80 R 16 87 S 8 inches seems to be standard subaru ground clearance and they seem to do ok in sand but get stuck occasionally Mostly curious if I can go down to the local 4WD beach and drive through the main, uh, "trail" to the wet sand I actually drove it on the beach earlier this year but only for about 30 feet for a photo op, and there weren't a bunch of ruts created by hundreds of 5 ton lb F350s and 2.5 ton jeeps on 245s
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Sep 25, 2022 18:50
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Air down to 20 psi and hope for the best? That's what I do in my van. Sometimes it works, but it is quite risky. I don't think ground clearance has ever been an issue. Go fast, go smooth, if you gently caress up even a tiny bit you are stuck. Factors to consider before you do it: - Is there cell reception? - If you get stuck, will the tide get you? - Solo, or with a friend? - High traffic area, or wilderness? Also you quadruple your chances of being saved by a random pickup truck if you carry your own tow strap, soft shackles, etc. Don't do it unless you have a solid plan to get yourself unstuck. It might be as simple as flagging down a park ranger in his work truck, or it might be more fraught. Use good judgement. You can also take a look at the other vehicles that make it through, to gauge the risk. e: me giving up and turning around 
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Sep 25, 2022 19:20
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Motronic posted:Paranoia about what? You can mix both of those oils without a problem. I would swear that I've seen owner's manuals say not to even mix different brand oils of the same weight but I can't remember which one or where. I'm also not saying you're wrong, just that I'm likely not the only one that read/heard/was told that so the concern makes sense. I know I've thrown a quart of gas station 5w30 in my 0w20 engine when I found out that my newly installed oil filter wasn't torqued down right and the other option was driving with a dry dipstick.
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Sep 25, 2022 19:41
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If you mix oils, there is a 90% chance that it'll cause a thermite-like reaction in the oil pump. The number of fires happening like this in magnesium-block VW is what prompted the invention of fire retardant interior fabrics in modern cars 
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Sep 25, 2022 19:47
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It's that or the manual was written in legalese.
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Sep 25, 2022 19:49
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If the manual says "only use (manufacturer) brand oil of the correct weight/viscosity" don't even bother. We've all broken that rule 100 times and only had a problem if something was already destined to fail catastrophically long before we mixed shell brand 10w30 with Exxon brand 10w30 or whatever the gently caress.
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Sep 25, 2022 19:50
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Motronic posted:I'm going to suggest that you make a thread. It does not seem thread worthy when I'm at the last (potentially) step of removing a seized tie rod end, but I can do that.
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Sep 25, 2022 19:56
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One of our cars takes 4 quarts of 5w30, the other takes 6 quarts of 5w20. 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 are a shitload cheaper than individual bottles. Neither car burns/leaks enough oil to need topping off between oil changes. The remaining quart of 5w30 makes the 6th quart in the engine that takes 5w20. It doesn't get cold enough here for 5w30 in that engine (Ford 4.6 V8) to make a real difference anyway, and I'm pretty sure Ford started speccing 5w20 for it solely for mileage reasons anyway (5w20 didn't exist until 2002; this engine hit the market in 1990 for the 1991 model year).
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Sep 25, 2022 23:07
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In a no-garage situation, during a tropical storm, is it better to park perpendicular to the wind on the street, or in parallel with the wind, but under a tree What line items do I need to check on my car insurance to see if tropical storm damage is covered. Not worried about flooding
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Sep 26, 2022 19:23
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Hadlock posted:In a no-garage situation, during a tropical storm, is it better to park perpendicular to the wind on the street, or in parallel with the wind, but under a tree For your 2nd question, in the USA I'm not aware of any state where comprehensive lacks coverage for natural disasters.
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Sep 26, 2022 19:31
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Hadlock posted:In a no-garage situation, during a tropical storm, is it better to park perpendicular to the wind on the street, or in parallel with the wind, but under a tree Do you want a new car or the same car.
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Sep 26, 2022 20:00
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Hadlock posted:In a no-garage situation, during a tropical storm, is it better to park perpendicular to the wind on the street, or in parallel with the wind, but under a tree You need comprehensive, and it usually won't kick in until the next day if you don't already have it. Don't park under a tree, or even near a tree. I would think parking with the front facing the wind would be best - smaller target, least wind resistance. You're probably looking at some damage no matter what if it's a solid storm, but replacing the windshield is a lot cheaper than the back window or all of the glass on one side. Don't take this as gospel; I've been through some nasty thunderstorms and smaller tornadoes, but no tropical storms. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 20:01
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I'm trying to figure out if I should take my car to the shop for the alternator guys. It's a 2012 mazda 6, about 80k miles I think. Today I went to get in it, and the battery was a little dead, dead enough it couldn't start. So I rolled it out of the driveway and dumped the clutch to get it started. It ran perfectly fine, drove to the autozone. They said the battery was fine but my alternator was going bad. However, I've stopped a couple more places and drove it a bit, and everything seems perfectly fine to me. It's possible I just left a light or something on and that's why the battery was low on juice to begin with. Is it possible autozones little checker thing might have just been thrown off because my battery wasn't fully charged at the time? Putting my car in the shop will not only cost money but will cause a big issue with figuring out how I get to work. I'll do it if it needs it, but I thought I'd ask here. Is it worth waiting a day or two and seeing if it acts up again at least? Also any ideas on how hard it is to replace an alternator yourself on those cars? I'm mechanically inclined, I used to fix all my own stuff, but I had older cars back then and I'm not sure about this newer, more compact type of car. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 20:04
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H110Hawk posted:Do you want a new car or the same car. same car i don't think we're going to see sustained winds beyond 40mph, probably, not in florida but we're definitely in the light green "slightly less doom" bands for thurs/friday, I think, probably 12-18 hours?
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Sep 26, 2022 20:06
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