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I need recommendations on AT&T fiber compatible modems and google has been useless so far. We are moving soon to a home which has fiber available from AT&T up to 5 Gbps though I'll probably opt for 2 Gpbs service. We have 1 Gbps over cable right now, so presumably our existing modem won't be compatible in the new place. Also is it possible to get 2 Gpbs over MoCA? If not, what is the best way to get that kind of speed in a room on the other side of the house without running ethernet cables through the walls? Maybe I should just settle for 1 Gpbs over MoCA on my desktop. edit: I guess the modem isn't really a thing for true fiber connections? bawfuls fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Sep 17, 2022 |
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Sep 17, 2022 20:41
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You will have to use ATTs equipment, they don't allow you to use your own, you can put their equipment in a "bypass" but it's not perfect. The "modem" is the fiber ont, and it's build into their new equipment. That is why I am switching to give cable a try. (lets see if I regret it) Rakeris fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Sep 17, 2022 |
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Sep 17, 2022 20:57
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That is a bummer, at least they aren't charging a separate equipment fee (I think?) I am 100% fed up with our cable ISP so we're switching when we move on principle alone, aside from the fact that ATT offers double the speed for less than we pay now.
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Sep 17, 2022 21:00
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Depending on the speed, I think they wave it at >1Gbs. But yeah why I've used them for the last 2 years, but spectrum came in and offered $50/mo for 1Gb, so figured I'd give them a go mostly because I hate having to rent equipment I don't want/need.
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Sep 17, 2022 21:05
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I think most ISPs require that they supply the ONT. I have Cox Fiber and they supplied the ONT; FWIW I haven't had any issues though with it, and I ended up hiding it behind a TV in my office (they mounted it to the wall). A few pagers back, but wanted to respond to: Eletriarnation posted:As far as the interference question goes, I'd recommend using a utility like Ubiquiti's WiFiman to try mapping out where you do and don't get a good signal on the channels you're using and any other channels which may be conflicting. You can then potentially try moving your existing equipment, changing channels, etc. to improve the situation. I think you've talked me into, at a minimum, getting a new router setup, maybe 2x Mesh devices, and running ethernet between them so that it has ethernet backhaul at least, but I'm also considering what you said about a PoE switch and running at least one ethernet line to each room. So the home office/den, where my above-referenced fiber ONT is located, and the current router, is on one side of the house, and our main family/living room areas are on the other side. So now I'm thinking that I could have the router in the office, along with the PoE switch, and then run cable from the office/PoE switch to each room and install jacks in each, plus a jack to provide a line to the other mesh hub/AP on the other side. Does that sound reasonable?
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Sep 17, 2022 21:14
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bawfuls posted:That is a bummer, at least they aren't charging a separate equipment fee (I think?) I have 1G AT&T fiber with a wall-mounted ONT and use the router they provided me, the BGW210. I think the >1G connections may get a different model, but I'm pretty sure it's still an Arris BGW*. I've had the wireless radio on it disabled since day 1 and I use my Mikrotik switch for DHCP because it has more options and a better interface, but turning off those features was simple enough and with the router just doing NAT/routing there's not much to care about. I don't have any kind of equipment rental fee, presumably because not using their router is not an option. SourKraut posted:I think you've talked me into, at a minimum, getting a new router setup, maybe 2x Mesh devices, and running ethernet between them so that it has ethernet backhaul at least, but I'm also considering what you said about a PoE switch and running at least one ethernet line to each room. Yeah, absolutely reasonable. Having an AP in the living room will hopefully provide good service to the main locations where people are going to be using mobile devices, especially if you are able to wire fixed devices like smart TVs/HTPCs. Putting jacks in rooms where you expect to have fixed devices but no APs will help reduce the amount of time that the APs are shouting through walls, so to speak.
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Sep 18, 2022 00:33
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bawfuls posted:I need recommendations on AT&T fiber compatible modems and google has been useless so far. You can get 2.5 gigabits over moca. Gocoax sells an adapter that has a 2.5 gigabit port. The bandwidth is shared with all the adapters on the network.
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Sep 18, 2022 13:21
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Looked back a number of pages and didn't see a go-to router recommendation for a basic network (the most my friend would do is port forward or set static IPs I think). I'll probably tell him to get Unifi APs to hook up to it. Any tips?
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Sep 19, 2022 20:33
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EdgeRouter X is cheap and quite capable of doing basic stuff on top of converting to a switch in a pinch
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Sep 19, 2022 20:54
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Pretty happy with my er-x, but I currently have simple needs and don’t get all the way to 1gbit for the performance to matter.
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Sep 19, 2022 21:14
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Using TMobile 5G. Works great and its fast but one issue is it doesnt' allow port forwarding/assigning you a public IP address. Does anyone know a service where I can make my web server publicly available? I do not want to install a VPN service on both the webserver and the other end (ie. my phone.) Any suggestions? I thought ZeroTier would be able to do it but doesn't seem like it works for public access.
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Sep 20, 2022 06:19
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Unfortunately you're behind CGNAT, so there's no way to get a port forwarded. Maybe they don't NAT IPv6, but I bet they do. Mullvad does port forwarding, and if you connect to the same location each time, the exit IP should remain the same. I presume other good VPNs offer roughly the same, but Mullvad has a good *nix command line application. You don't need it on both devices. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Sep 20, 2022 |
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Sep 20, 2022 06:54
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A really cheap VPS and tailscale or something might do the trick.
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Sep 20, 2022 06:56
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I need a sanity check on the following plan: I'm building a garage and it, of course, needs some connectivity. I have (well, will have) a 50mm/2" conduit running to it, and my idea is to run an OS2 single mode fiber through it. The conduit is in two sections - about 12 meters and about 5 meters. The conduit is underground and part of it had already collected some water, so I'm thinking some armored/ruggedized direct burial type cable, perhaps something like this. How dumb would it be to try to pull a pre-terminated patch cable? Conversely, how expensive would it be to have a guy come out and terminate a naked cable? Should I rather find some ruggedized Cat6? The argument for fiber, apart from the coolness factor, is that it's going to live next to high voltage cables, and that things potentially get submerged. bolind fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 11:13
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Rugged preterminated duplex single mode fiber with a pull end should fit through a 2" conduit.
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Sep 22, 2022 12:12
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If it’s the same conduit fiber would be preferred. I try and spec immersion rated if the conduit is flooded, but direct burial has good longevity. At that distance you could pull a jumper through it if you could find one with the right rating. OM4 50u MMF would also be a good choice at 30m or thereabout. If you ask a cable vendor I would figure they’d have a scrap piece from a job for something like that, but a housing, pigtails, splice sleeves, and time I could see ~$750-1000 depending. The cable costs almost nothing itself. Cat6/6a with 110V doesn’t concern me as much though I don’t think it’s officially proper. Shielding could be good if you’re going to have various motor loads in the garage.
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Sep 22, 2022 12:38
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And if you’re gonna run one, run two. Don’t want to have a fiber break and be down, garage internet is serious production business.
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Sep 22, 2022 12:47
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Wibla posted:a pull end Go on... devmd01 posted:And if you’re gonna run one, run two. Don’t want to have a fiber break and be down, garage internet is serious production business. Absolutely.
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Sep 22, 2022 13:12
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A pull end is just a sleeve/loop already attached to the cable (and not the fiber connector which is the fragile part) so that the chance of damages when pulling is lowered. (edit: also known as a pull end, pull grip - if you have one you can use it for any cable) unknown fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 13:44
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My home is being renovated right now so I have an opportunity to wire the house with Cat6 and also fibre for giggles. I'd like to have fibre front plates in the loft bedroom and the first floor bedroom (with Cat6 and an extra fibre cable as redundancy in both rooms). I've attached a simplified diagram and highlighted the fibre cables in blue. Anything obviously wrong here? I'll be using OM3 duplex LC-LC multimode cables. TY. 
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Sep 24, 2022 18:18
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Looks good to me as long as your first floor bedroom PC has a fiber-capable NIC.
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Sep 25, 2022 06:09
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There shouldn’t be much need for that extra fiber cable indoors if you’re using plates with couplers, and you have cleaning supplies , dust caps , etc. To me the redundancy element there is if you damage the end or connector, not so much that you randomly drill into it . Overkill for this application really but doable . Vendor could pull a 6 strand cable, terminate some or all. Glass isn’t the expensive part in all of this.
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Sep 25, 2022 12:40
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Partycat posted:
Ya - I had single mode pulled in my home last year. We did 6 strand and there’s three major rooms that have hard wired devices. The entertainment room just has a Fiber-to-1Gbe converter that gets plugged into a switch. The office itself has a switch that has an SFP+ cage that I threw a 1Gbe module into. I don’t really see an advantage to running both Cat5/6 and Fiber unless you’re going to heavily prefer using one in all the rooms (e.g. hardwire Ethernet devices in every room). We only went with single mode because at the time, it was the cheapest for the materials. We hit some weird point in the supply chain shenanigans where the fiber guy could get single mode fiber at like 80% the price of cat6.
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Sep 25, 2022 16:50
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So I finally decided to kind of tame my network cubby... need to get some short patch cables and decide where I am going to mount that AP. But pretty happy how it turned out. Before:  After: 
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Sep 25, 2022 18:08
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Eletriarnation posted:Looks good to me as long as your first floor bedroom PC has a fiber-capable NIC. I bought a couple of used enterprise ones for cheap. Even dual port SFP+ NICs are being sold for around the same price as 2.5g RJ45 NICS. I'd love to upgrade to SFP+ but the cards take 8 PCIE lanes. Partycat posted:There shouldn’t be much need for that extra fiber cable indoors if you’re using plates with couplers, and you have cleaning supplies , dust caps , etc. To me the redundancy element there is if you damage the end or connector, not so much that you randomly drill into it . Overkill for this application really but doable . It is overkill, but OM3 and OS2 leads are slightly cheaper than solid UTP Cat6 over here, so I thought why not add an extra lead? I hadn't heard of 6 strand fibre cable! Will speak to the electrician if that's a better idea.
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Sep 26, 2022 01:22
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So going back to my plans, I want to swap out my Google Wifi units to a single WiFi 6 router until it cools down and I can do the PoE switch and run cable in the attic. I'll probably look to get a AP then for the other side of the house that would be wired back to the switch and router. For the router, I was doing research and it seems like in general people seem to prefer ASUS? I found the TP-Link AX11000 on clearance at my local Costco, so I went ahead and bought it. However, reading people's online views/concerns about TP-Link and security (slow/few firmware updates, and the fact that TP-Link is a PRC company), how concerned should I actually be? I don't care about the gaming "nature" of the router - it just seemed like a good deal for a router that seems to perform fairly well? I also however do engineering work that I probably would rather not be exposed to any potential security risks.
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Sep 26, 2022 07:40
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Rollie Fingers posted:My home is being renovated right now so I have an opportunity to wire the house with Cat6 and also fibre for giggles. I'd like to have fibre front plates in the loft bedroom and the first floor bedroom (with Cat6 and an extra fibre cable as redundancy in both rooms). Since it isn't clear from your description, my only suggestion is to consider outlets in every room regardless of how much you plan to use the room in the near future. When we did our house, we ran coax and cat 6 to every room (coax for antenna hook ups). Some rooms got two outlets. The cabling is cheap, it's the people time that gets you, and the cost of dropping lines in every room isn't necessarily that much more than a limited set of rooms.
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Sep 27, 2022 04:38
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Internet Savant posted:Since it isn't clear from your description, my only suggestion is to consider outlets in every room regardless of how much you plan to use the room in the near future. When we did our house, we ran coax and cat 6 to every room (coax for antenna hook ups). Some rooms got two outlets. The cabling is cheap, it's the people time that gets you, and the cost of dropping lines in every room isn't necessarily that much more than a limited set of rooms. This is good advice. As for fibre, I would go with SM, but I'm professionally challenged in this area (I maintain a large metro-area network and we have banned MM fibre in our entire network for maintenance reasons). fs.com is your friend for cheap optics.
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Sep 27, 2022 07:01
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Internet Savant posted:Since it isn't clear from your description, my only suggestion is to consider outlets in every room regardless of how much you plan to use the room in the near future. When we did our house, we ran coax and cat 6 to every room (coax for antenna hook ups). Some rooms got two outlets. The cabling is cheap, it's the people time that gets you, and the cost of dropping lines in every room isn't necessarily that much more than a limited set of rooms. Yeah I'm installing at least a couple of ethernet sockets in each room in the house. I bought a 300m reel of unshielded UTP Cat6, but I've had an electrician tell me I should use shielded Cat6 instead because some of the patch cables will be within a few centimetres of power cables and there could be issues with interference. Is that even likely to happen in a regular house? It's not like I'm powering large motors indoors. Wibla posted:This is good advice. Cool, thanks. OS2 it is then. It's the same price for me as OM3.
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Sep 27, 2022 22:40
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Rollie Fingers posted:Is that even likely to happen in a regular house? It's not like I'm powering large motors indoors. Not likely unless you zip tie an ethernet cable to the entire length of your 240v dryer run. Distances just aren't long enough. Goes double if you're running gigabit on 6A.
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Sep 28, 2022 03:14
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Wibla posted:This is good advice. It got so bad, that we seriously talked about using standard connectors - because they're intended to be used by providers who need to move the connections around with some regularity and we found that Lucent connectors are only rated for around a thousand disconnects.
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Sep 28, 2022 12:27
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I don’t know how much repatching you were doing, but neither LC nor SC have been a problem for breakage for us without someone manhandling the things. Trying to peel a duplex end apart to flip the strands maybe but that’s why it’s a patch cord , easy to throw away . Most of the damage and issue seems to come from improper cleaning , no endface inspection , etc then jamming dirt and shite into the connection . If it’s scratched near or over the core welp .
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Sep 28, 2022 12:44
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For a small house, would ya'll recommend the Asus RT-AX86U flashed with Merlin (https://www.asuswrt-merlin.net/about)? I'm upgrading from a very old Linksys router and Ruckus AP, and want WiFi 6 and mesh capability for the future. I am looking at a used model for ~$200. May consider one of Asus extenders in the future if coverage is an issue.
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Sep 28, 2022 12:59
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BlankSystemDaemon posted:Interesting - when I maintained a campus-area network, what'd most often break would be the Lucent connectors. Our issues are more with standardization - by not explicitly banning MM fibre, we had lovely subcontractors installing it where they should have used SM fibre and it led to massive problems for a while. On connectors, our oldest (mid-late 90s) fibre panels have SC, the newer ones have FC, and we standardized on LC a few years ago. They've mostly been problem-free, but we don't re-patch all that often, and we have strict standards for cleaning and inspection, as well as good training for our techs.
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Sep 28, 2022 16:52
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Hello, networking goons! Cox Cable has started notifying me that my modem is out of date, which isn't surprising, since it’s been there for ten years. They do permit using your own equipment, which I absolutely want to do, and their list of compatible devices is here. Ironically enough, I work in networking, but haven't been keeping on top of the latest tech as much as I should, especially not for home consumer use. Therefore, I'm hoping for goon recommendations on what devices to choose. More details: - I live in a top-floor apartment, from which I work from home all but one day a week. - I would like the coax cable drops in my living room and office to each have their own cable modem; I'm pretty tired of the Cat5 cable running down the hall. - One or the other of those devices also needs to provide Wi-Fi. - I'm thinking of adding a security layer (PiHole or similar) for personal browsing (work already provides a VPN client). Let me know if more info is needed. Thanks!
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Sep 29, 2022 02:52
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All of the modern cable modems on that list are pretty much using the exact same Broadcom chipset inside. There's very little difference between most of them. One may have an extra port or two, but pick whichever one suits your needs the best. I'm partial to Surfboard modems, but that's for personal reasons. I would buy a SB8200 I don't care for the Motorola badged modems as much, but they do seem to be a decent product. Industry stuff no one will care about: When Google bought Motorola a ways back they really didn't want the entire company, just the patents for mobile phone stuff. They spun off several divisions of the company to different buyers. The OG Motorola Surfboard cable modem and complimentary business was sold off to a company called ARRIS, but ARRIS didn't get the Motorola name as part of the deal, just the Surfboard name, which is why you see modems marketed as ARRIS Surfboard, or possibly CommScope (who purchased ARRIS) Surfboard. The current Motorola branded modems are actually made by a company called MINIM, formerly Zoom Telephonics. They license the Motorola name now. Like I said though, most of these modems are the same these days. Broadcom provides a reference chipset and then OEM's can modify it a bit on their end. Some might have a little more RAM or an extra port, or the capability to run software packages on the modems directly, but I don't think there's any major performance differences. I'm not sure if Intel is still making cable modem chipsets or not, but avoid anything with an Intel chipset. Puma 6 was a disaster. fake edit: I just caught this "- I would like the coax cable drops in my living room and office to each have their own cable modem; I'm pretty tired of the Cat5 cable running down the hall." Cable modems don't work that way unless you want 2 separate lines of service. You can look into using something like MoCA but you can't run 2 cable modems at the same time on the same account.
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Sep 29, 2022 15:57
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skipdogg posted:fake edit: I just caught this Thank you very, very much for the effortpost! And this last part makes sense, now that I think about it.
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Sep 30, 2022 08:43
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If wires on the floor or drilling holes is not working out , power line adapters are also a possible option . Given the speed of most residential service and practical use , they’re not a bad choice in a rental, outlier room, etc.
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Sep 30, 2022 12:08
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Partycat posted:If wires on the floor or drilling holes is not working out , power line adapters are also a possible option . Given the speed of most residential service and practical use , they’re not a bad choice in a rental, outlier room, etc. Thanks! The cable not being attached to the wall (at least with nailed-in cable brackets) is really just sheer goony laziness.  I should knock that out the next time I'm hanging pictures.
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Sep 30, 2022 12:41
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I have a Ubiquiti Dream machine that works fine but it is stuck at one end of a long apartment and the wifi coverage at the other end is poo poo. Even the interior walls here are brick so running ethernet anywhere is a no-go for me. I'd like to add an AP near the other end of the apartment and I am not sure how to go about it. https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-wireless/products/unifi-ap-6-lite €100 https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-wireless/products/unifi-6-long-range-access-point-1 €181 https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-wireless/products/unifi-ap6-professional (sold out) €150 https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-wireless/products/access-point-wifi-6-mesh (sold out) €181 I *think* any of the above would work. They can all create a "mesh" with the UDM, right? I don't need blazing fast speed or fancy features so I think I should go with the AP 6 Lite. Tell me why I am wrong.
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Sep 30, 2022 12:58
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Associate Christ