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I wish I could leave reviews on these parts like "if you try installing this knuckle into a fcs strut, you will have to grind it down to fit"
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Sep 30, 2022 04:29
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Deteriorata posted:That just means it's almost completely discharged. If it was in good shape prior to that, it may recover just fine. It can also mean it's got a shorted cell or two and is beyond salvage. It's a UPS battery, and the UPS doesn't seem to want to turn on. Seems like it draws from the battery when I press the button. I wonder if the UPS's charging circuitry doesn't "see" it, and if I just need to throw it on a constant current power supply to stuff some electrons in it.
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Sep 30, 2022 04:44
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0.4v on a lead acid is almost certainly beyond recovery. You might be able to get it back with a dumb charger that will shove current at it no matter what, but I would plan on replacing it.
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Sep 30, 2022 04:51
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Safety Dance posted:It's a UPS battery, and the UPS doesn't seem to want to turn on. Seems like it draws from the battery when I press the button. I wonder if the UPS's charging circuitry doesn't "see" it, and if I just need to throw it on a constant current power supply to stuff some electrons in it. Then it's dead. Replace it. I thought you were talking about a car battery.
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Sep 30, 2022 04:53
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Safety Dance posted:I assume a 12v sealed lead acid battery that's measuring .4v is beyond saving? Trash, yes
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Sep 30, 2022 05:06
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Hadlock posted:Trash, yes Buddy, it specifically says  on it. I'll take it to the recycler
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Sep 30, 2022 05:25
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just throw it into the ocean. it's a safe and legal thrill
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Sep 30, 2022 06:55
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STR posted:
Index everything before removal. Bolt torque to tranny flange is 75lbs. As for the yoke...judgement call on that. Is it one of those "could spline count differ, is it fully splined across years, yada yada" due to it being a P71 and potential incorrect application listings on parts sites or doubt getting the correct one the first time.
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Sep 30, 2022 11:41
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C-Bangin' it 
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Safety Dance posted:Buddy, it specifically says That just means don't throw your peanut butter away.
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Sep 30, 2022 13:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:0.4v on a lead acid is almost certainly beyond recovery. You might be able to get it back with a dumb charger that will shove current at it no matter what, but I would plan on replacing it. To expand on this, when they get super discharged like that for long periods of time, the lead sulfate crystals on the plates can be nearly impossible to reverse. That reduces the capacity of the battery. You might be able to charge it back to 12V but it may only be able to give you an amp or something for discharge power.
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Sep 30, 2022 17:42
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I'd put it on a charger for a few hours and see if it came back but 95% chance that battery is scrap. 12v battery is 6 2v cells in series, usually if one suddenly drops to some even number of volts (or close to it) you've got a number of shorted cells, not just low charge. In this case the number of shorted/very very close to dead cells is... 5 or 6. They're worth a little in scrap money but unless it's a really big UPS it won't even buy you lunch, so I'd just give it away to a scrap hound. I don't even bother bringing them in till I've got 3 or 4 full-size car batteries waiting to be recycled, and my local scrap place is literally next door to my favorite junkyard.
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Sep 30, 2022 19:39
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kastein posted:I'd put it on a charger for a few hours and see if it came back but 95% chance that battery is scrap. 12v battery is 6 2v cells in series, usually if one suddenly drops to some even number of volts (or close to it) you've got a number of shorted cells, not just low charge. In this case the number of shorted/very very close to dead cells is... 5 or 6. I drive down to the city's transfer station every couple of weeks to recycle cardboard thanks to my MIL's Amazon habit. They've got a bin for batteries, so I'll just drop 'em off the next time I'm there.
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Sep 30, 2022 19:42
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Colostomy Bag posted:Index everything before removal. Bolt torque to tranny flange is 75lbs. Rockauto and Advance Auto both seem to list parts that SHOULD be P71 or fleet specific (radiator for example) as being for all Crown Vics, so... yeah. Rockauto in particular doesn't seem to differentiate parts at all between civilian and fleet/police version. There's not a whole lot that makes them different - overall cooling system (oil, trans, and coolant) is a little different, different charging system, no immobilizer, air intake, exhaust. Some of the civilian stuff will fit fine or with minor mods (radiator), some will fit but won't work (alternator), some is completely different (exhaust - most civilian models got single exhaust, P71s and LX Sport are dual exhaust). But you have to know your part numbers..  Thanks for the torque spec. I was a fan of gutntite until I started working in a factory; it's shocking how easy it is to overshoot your torque spec by a large amount if you just sneeze or look away for a moment, and gutntite is almost always going to be WAY over. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Oct 1, 2022 |
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Oct 1, 2022 05:23
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I'm poking around trying to locate and umderstand the hydraulic path and cylinders on my Tacoma and turned up a new question. Since the slave cylinder failed, it dumped all the fluid into the bell housing, and it's leaking from somewhere just forward of that. Do I need to drain the bell housing entirely? Is there a drain already in place or do I have a bad gasket? I'm guessing there is a drain, because every time I push the pedal and fluid runs from the master into the slave, it runs out of the front of the bell housing immediately.
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Oct 1, 2022 20:32
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uuuuhhhhhhh wut?
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Oct 1, 2022 20:47
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Push clutch pedal Master cylinder actuates Fluid passes through slave cylinder, doesn't actuate it, squirts out from around pushrod into bell housing Fluid drains out front of bell housing onto ground under truck This is first foray into clutch and transmission stuff, I don't know much. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Oct 1, 2022 |
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Oct 1, 2022 20:59
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Got ya. I don't think I've ever heard of a bellhousing with a gasket. So most likely the majority of the fluid has drained out of it unless there are some little nooks and crannies in there. I've seen some bellhousings that have a clutch inspection cover. Don't know if yours has that, but as you may guess by the name it can be removed and you can inspect the clutch and you can probably also shove a little mirror up there to see if there are any pools of hydraulic fluid. As long as none has leaked on to the clutch itself I wouldn't worry.
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Oct 1, 2022 21:06
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Bellhousings aren't sealed to the engine, specifically so that any fluid that gets into them can get right back out. Given that it would be difficult for an externally-mounted slave cylinder to leak fluid into the bellhousing, I suspect your slave cylinder is of the internal / concentric / combined slave-and-throwout variety. Which means the transmission has to come off and you can hose the bellhousing out with brake cleaner while you do the rest of the work. If it's an external slave and it's just managing to leak perfectly into the bellhousing, the most I'd do is squirt some brake clean into wherever it was leaking from. Or probably just ignore that there was brake fluid there in the first place until it's time to do a clutch.
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Oct 1, 2022 21:07
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Thanks guys. IOwnCalcus, it is the latter. The inspection cover (I think) actually opens right onto the slave pushrod, and has an extended guard protecting the main body of the slave cylinder on the outside of the transmission.
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Oct 1, 2022 21:13
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2016 Jeep Patriot 2.4L, my MIL's car. Yesterday she's driving around and it goes into limp mode but drives a few miles to my house. I pulled the codes and it had a couple throttle body/actuator related codes stored. I took the intake off and saw a bunch of poo poo caked on the inside of the throttle body so I cleaned it up, reset the codes, and now it's driving normally. No engine light anymore but when I scan for codes it still shows "U0401 - network". I ran out of time and had to leave for work today (and won't be home for a week) but this is still nagging at me. A little googling tells me this could be anything from a loose wire somewhere or a bad relay to the ECU making GBS threads the bed. I haven't run into this code before but I'm certainly not new to electrical issues. Any advice on where to start with this when I get home?
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Oct 2, 2022 02:32
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Found this on Google:quote:The U0401 code broadly identifies "communication errors" in the vehicle’s controller area network (CAN). In your circumstance, because the electronic throttle control (ETC) warning light has come on, an attempt should be made to diagnose the ETC system first because a cause of "communication errors" (U0401) is faulty sensor output data (such as potentially from the ETC) on the CAN. If and once the ETC system is ruled out (or repaired, as needed), if the U0401 code still persists, a further diagnostic is performed. Prior to requesting service, you can try to reset the ETC system using the following steps: 1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" position but do not start the engine; 2) Wait for all the warning lights to go out. The check engine light may remain on; 3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor; 4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it is all the way back up at the rest position; 5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF" position; 6) Start the engine and test the throttle to see if the engine speed will throttle up. tl;dr the throttle body could have caused it, in theory. I'd disconnect the battery for a minute, then re-learn the throttle body using the steps above.
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Oct 2, 2022 16:30
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STR posted:Found this on Google: I didn't see that but I'll try that when I get home unless I can talk my wife into trying it. Thanks a lot!
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Oct 2, 2022 18:25
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I'm taking care of and maybe inheriting a 9th gen f150 that's been sitting for 2+ years. The battery had been disconnected so I thought it would at least give it a try before buying a new one. Gave it a jump and got the motor going but it won't idle. If I don't give it gas the motor just spins out and dies - what should I look into first? Internet is saying vacuum hoses
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Oct 3, 2022 16:43
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Fuel. It's bad. Get as much out as possible and put fresh fuel in it. You'll be chasing ghosts otherwise regardless of what else may need addressing.
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Oct 3, 2022 16:45
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And after that, if the issue persists: fuel filter. Also, check the air filter housing & intake. Could be a mouse nest or three in there, which is what I found in the air box of the '93 Roadmaster I bought that had sat for at least two years. Amazingly they did not chew through the filter, so the actual intake & throttle body were fine. Then take it out for an Italian tune-up.
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Oct 3, 2022 16:48
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Fuel bad already in a car that's only been sitting two years? Jesus. I've let things sit 4 to 5 years before and just driven them after. I'd suspect it just needs to idle and think about things for a while. At least on JTEC and SBEC ECUs in 91+ jeeps, when the battery is disconnected they lose the adaptive tuning memory settings including the IACV step counter value, which results in them not idling properly until they've woken up a bit and relearned the position needed to keep the engine from stalling. Usually I just get them started and sit there for a while keeping it from dying every time it tries, after a few minutes of warming up and relearning they do alright on their own.
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Oct 3, 2022 17:31
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If you really want to go down a rabbit hole, watch a couple episodes of junkyard digs on YouTube He basically does what you're doing. If you find yourself needing to mess with the carburetor, he's also got a great video on carburetor basics which I refer to quite a bit https://youtu.be/TPX6n-5ETxo
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Oct 3, 2022 17:31
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9th gen F series is 92-96, it's gonna be a creaky old EEC-IV system not a carb.
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Oct 3, 2022 17:34
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kastein posted:Fuel bad already in a car that's only been sitting two years? Jesus. I've let things sit 4 to 5 years before and just driven them after. I gotta split the difference on this, yeah I've used old gas and it's fine but not great. We should recommend that people eliminate obvious suspects too. My chainsaw absolutely would not run on gas from last year and ran easily on fresh stuff. I've had better luck on bigger, simple motors with year old gas at least...i wouldn't say anyone should do it though.
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Oct 3, 2022 17:38
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kastein posted:Fuel bad already in a car that's only been sitting two years? Jesus. I've let things sit 4 to 5 years before and just driven them after. Isn't gas only supposed to last 6 months?
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Oct 3, 2022 17:41
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You aren't wrong, I just think fiddling with it for about 5 to 10 minutes keeping it from stalling and then taking it for a spin around the block like PainterOfCrap said will probably be easier and more likely to succeed than draining a bunch of old fuel out of it. I usually get like, 16mpg instead of 18mpg on crappy old gas and it definitely doesn't run as well, but it has only caused two failed starts that I've seen. One on my Justy I sold this spring that was sitting 7 years, and one on the crapcan XJ that SiF and I used for an EFI swap donor on his dad's CJ that had 5 year old gas in it. That one drove into the garage on its own but 5 years of being parked and then like 2 months of the tank sitting open was a step too far because it wouldn't even burn right when put on a rag after that. Edit: people say it lasts only 6 months but I can personally tell you that they're full of poo poo. It might not be a great idea to run it in a high compression performance engine after 2 years, but in a shitbox NA Subaru, 80s and 90s Jeep, or early 90s Ford? Unless the gas cap was literally open for the duration it is probably fine.
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Oct 3, 2022 17:43
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poo poo out here goes stale after like six weeks and is totally useless by 6mos to a year. drain the fuel out of it or cut it with fresh + seafoam or whatever and go flog the poo poo out of it.
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Oct 3, 2022 17:49
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kastein posted:Fuel bad already in a car that's only been sitting two years? Jesus. I've let things sit 4 to 5 years before and just driven them after. This actually worked! I take the path of least resistance when it comes to stuff like this, I'll probably still change the gas since I already have a pump and gas can
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Oct 3, 2022 18:14
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I'm both cheap and lazy, and hate wasting gas by turning it into hazmat waste, so I usually just top it off and drive. But if you even slightly suspect the fuel pump might need replacing that's the last thing you want to do because they inevitably die with a full tank. If you have another car you drive more that's not some high strung performance engine, you can just toss a gallon or two of the old gas in every tank till it's gone, I guess. I've just never bothered. This reminds me, I need to pump last year's gas out of my old Comanche and into my older Comanche next time I'm low. Just filled up without thinking about it a few days ago.
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Oct 3, 2022 19:47
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kastein posted:I'm both cheap and lazy, and hate wasting gas by turning it into hazmat waste, so I usually just top it off and drive. But if you even slightly suspect the fuel pump might need replacing that's the last thing you want to do because they inevitably die with a full tank. I once looked up how to dispose of gasoline where I used to live in Georgia, and the county said "just let it evaporate"
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Oct 3, 2022 20:56
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Does anyone have recommendations for deer whistles? Are they all created equal? I nearly totaled my car on a herd of deer last night, they were crossing the road around a blind corner on the highway. Managed to get through the only gap between them that would fit a car and also not go off the highway, but that was at least partially luck and swerving back and forth trying to regain control after an emergency maneuver at 50mph made me very aware of my mortality.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone have recommendations for deer whistles? Are they all created equal? I nearly totaled my car on a herd of deer last night, they were crossing the road around a blind corner on the highway. Managed to get through the only gap between them that would fit a car and also not go off the highway, but that was at least partially luck and swerving back and forth trying to regain control after an emergency maneuver at 50mph made me very aware of my mortality. Here's one that works:
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Oct 3, 2022 21:08
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I can't tell if you're saying they are snake oil or if you forgot a link.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I can't tell if you're saying they are snake oil It's this one. Nothing stops the suicidal deer.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:13
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I can't tell if you're saying they are snake oil or if you forgot a link. The joke was that there aren't any that actually work. https://esploro.libs.uga.edu/esploro/outputs/9949333991502959 The general conclusion is that your car is traveling fast enough that by the time the deer could hear the whistle it would be too late for it to react. Also that deer don't actually respond much to a constant whistle.
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Oct 3, 2022 21:15
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