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Geisladisk posted:
it’s lovely. Rats off to ya
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Oct 8, 2022 02:59
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EdsTeioh posted:Yeah, you wanna look up Aries Games. They basically sell JUST Battletech and have a ton of 3rd party decals for the various factions. These came in yesterday and I got a lot of painting done today while recovering from my covid booster. I got the Raven and Wolfhound painted up today.  I also got a lot of terrain painted today and last night, plus a few vehicles  I went with the faction on the MW2 Mercenaries box 
Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Oct 8, 2022 |
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Oct 8, 2022 04:34
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Anyone know where I can get individual bottles of the vallejo nocturna line? The "lipstick" color from the purple set is really really vibrant and saturated in a way a lot of magentas just aren't, I'm loving that color
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Oct 8, 2022 05:08
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Are Citadel contrast paints the only ones worth using or are there any other brands that do similar?
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Oct 8, 2022 17:28
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Gambrinus posted:Are Citadel contrast paints the only ones worth using or are there any other brands that do similar? Vallejo is coming out with some, but I think so far the only 'review' has been from the dude who actually designed them.
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Oct 8, 2022 17:31
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Gambrinus posted:Are Citadel contrast paints the only ones worth using or are there any other brands that do similar? I've had a great time with Army Painter Speed Paints. I feel the claims of tearing are greatly overstated.
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Oct 8, 2022 17:47
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Indolent Bastard posted:I've had a great time with Army Painter Speed Paints. I feel the claims of tearing are greatly overstated. I love speed paint, but they need to make a v2 without the reactivation issues
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Oct 8, 2022 18:04
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Spanish Manlove posted:Anyone know where I can get individual bottles of the vallejo nocturna line? The "lipstick" color from the purple set is really really vibrant and saturated in a way a lot of magentas just aren't, I'm loving that color it looks like they have a few that come only in the Nocturna boxes
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Oct 8, 2022 19:50
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it looks like they’ve EOLed the model side of nocturna. im not sure if that means the paint sets are likely to go out of production too but uhh maybe buy a set if you want it, just in case
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Oct 8, 2022 19:56
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I might just have to get a spare box because I love all the paints in that set.
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Oct 8, 2022 20:13
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w00tmonger posted:I love speed paint, but they need to make a v2 without the reactivation issues I love the speed paints too, but the reactivation is a pain. It's mostly an issue with the red, I feel like? At least from the intro box of colors.
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Oct 8, 2022 21:50
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I love sitting down and cranking out a couple models with speedpaint, then rinsing my dry palette off to brand new. Hopefully they can fix reactivation and maintain those watercoloresque properties
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Oct 8, 2022 22:18
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Arcturas posted:I love the speed paints too, but the reactivation is a pain. It's mostly an issue with the red, I feel like? At least from the intro box of colors. So far, I've had every Speedpaint color that I've used (also from the starter box) reactivate, including during the moments I sprayed acrylic varnish (either rattlecan or airbrush) onto them to protect them from reactivating. I've got a couple test figures I've been letting sit for a few days to see if time is a factor in reactivation, so I'll probably mess with them sometime soon here and see what happens.
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Oct 8, 2022 22:34
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Arcturas posted:I love the speed paints too, but the reactivation is a pain. It's mostly an issue with the red, I feel like? At least from the intro box of colors. I feel like I need to actually experiment but I think your largely right. The Reds and oranges have this issue for sure. Just such a buzzkill because otherwise they're so nice to use. Maybe a little "gloopy"
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Oct 8, 2022 22:39
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Spanish Manlove posted:I might just have to get a spare box because I love all the paints in that set.
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Oct 8, 2022 22:40
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If you like speed paints but wish they didn’t reactivate, I gotta say I’ve been very happy with Contrast.
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Oct 8, 2022 22:49
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The biggest downside of the contrast range is you cannot predict what a colour will do looking at the pot. Is it very thin like a wash, does it have a huge value contrast between the lightest and darkest shade, one that is almost uniform across the whole surface. You need to see demonstrations of a colour first before buying and then spend time playing and experimenting with it. There are must have colours and absolute stinkers. Dana Howl has a video showing all contrast and speed paints. https://youtu.be/HLn7U_CgD_Y Also about a week ago Army Painter did a "we're poo poo, but we'll do better" video. They are https://youtu.be/97TG2Q5thrk Eediot Jedi fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Oct 8, 2022 |
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Oct 8, 2022 23:38
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Sydney Bottocks posted:So far, I've had every Speedpaint color that I've used (also from the starter box) reactivate, including during the moments I sprayed acrylic varnish (either rattlecan or airbrush) onto them to protect them from reactivating. I've got a couple test figures I've been letting sit for a few days to see if time is a factor in reactivation, so I'll probably mess with them sometime soon here and see what happens. I have varnished speed paints with an airbrush 24 hours after application with no issue. Obviously waiting a whole kills that "speed" thing, but that's my experience. As I have mentioned previously, I have used oil paints / white spirits on speed paints an hour after application with no ill effect.
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Oct 8, 2022 23:53
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the army painter video is a pretty by the numbers corporate “we’re listening, we want to do better” video and it’s still 1000000x what you’d ever get out of GW lol
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Oct 9, 2022 00:27
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jesus WEP posted:the army painter video is a pretty by the numbers corporate “we’re listening, we want to do better” video and it’s still 1000000x what you’d ever get out of GW lol Paint pots are fine and perfect and everyone whining about them is a big baby. Love, Games Workshop
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Oct 9, 2022 00:39
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Bored Online posted:I love sitting down and cranking out a couple models with speedpaint, then rinsing my dry palette off to brand new. Hopefully they can fix reactivation and maintain those watercoloresque properties The challenge can be looking at your pallet and trying to figure out which dark blob is which.
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Oct 9, 2022 00:48
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Eediot Jedi posted:The biggest downside of the contrast range is you cannot predict what a colour will do looking at the pot. Is it very thin like a wash, does it have a huge value contrast between the lightest and darkest shade, one that is almost uniform across the whole surface. You need to see demonstrations of a colour first before buying and then spend time playing and experimenting with it. There are must have colours and absolute stinkers. I agree about how contrast paints are hard to tell what the outcome will be based on the pot color. What I did is print out a really good copy of an image (linked below) that displays the contrast paints, and then I laminated it, hole punched it, attached it to a circle ring and have it hanging on a hook on my painting area. I also printed out and did the same thing with all the images from GW's website advertising the new contrast range. So now when I want to use a contrast paint I look at my nice visual guides to find the color or effect I am looking for, then grab the corresponding pot. I also have a color wheel on the hook as well. I also have another ring clip with laminated images of WW2 color schemes and whatnot for my flames of war minis. I find having a hook in my painting area and having ring bound laminated items is really, really handy! 
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Oct 9, 2022 00:56
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I agree about how contrast paints are hard to tell what the outcome will be based on the pot color. What I did is print out a really good copy of an image (linked below) that displays the contrast paints, and then I laminated it, hole punched it, attached it to a circle ring and have it hanging on a hook on my painting area. I also printed out and did the same thing with all the images from GW's website advertising the new contrast range. So now when I want to use a contrast paint I look at my nice visual guides to find the color or effect I am looking for, then grab the corresponding pot. I also have a color wheel on the hook as well. Even this isn't going to help a ton. You'd be lucky to get Plyar Glacier to look at all like that. It's almost like one of the old GW glazes more than a contrast paint.
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Oct 9, 2022 01:49
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Chainclaw posted:Even this isn't going to help a ton. You'd be lucky to get Plyar Glacier to look at all like that. It's almost like one of the old GW glazes more than a contrast paint. Funny you mention Pylar Glacier, I use that a ton for my cracking ice floe bases and you are right, it would take a few coats to get quite that color on the sheet. Unfortunately that sheet is the most compact thing I have that shows roughly what the colors all are. Most of the other images I found are multiple pages of stuff that seemed a little too much.
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Oct 9, 2022 02:12
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Eediot Jedi posted:The biggest downside of the contrast range is you cannot predict what a colour will do looking at the pot. Is it very thin like a wash, does it have a huge value contrast between the lightest and darkest shade, one that is almost uniform across the whole surface. You need to see demonstrations of a colour first before buying and then spend time playing and experimenting with it. There are must have colours and absolute stinkers. You just described literally every line of paint that has ever existed.
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Oct 9, 2022 02:22
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Verisimilidude posted:You just described literally every line of paint that has ever existed. If you're an idiot yes, you can reduce what I said to every line of paint and pretend contrast doesn't have that problem except much worse than most paint lines, or even just much worse than most citadel paint lines. jesus WEP posted:the army painter video is a pretty by the numbers corporate “we’re listening, we want to do better” video and it’s still 1000000x what you’d ever get out of GW lol The squat apology video was great.  E: https://www.warhammer-community.com/2022/09/29/leagues-of-votann-balance-update-a-word-from-james-workshop/ Eediot Jedi fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 02:44
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Well a Burnt Umber is the same across all paint manufacturers, I think, so if you wanna get nitpicky #notallpaintlines
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Oct 9, 2022 03:40
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Eediot Jedi posted:If you're an idiot yes, you can reduce what I said to every line of paint and pretend contrast doesn't have that problem except much worse than most paint lines, or even just much worse than most citadel paint lines. I think you need to chill, first of all. I wasn’t attacking you, so please mind your tone and be respectful. Second of all, literally yes, every line of paint has that issue, going back to the dawn of paint Every paint line has a learning curve, which was my point. Contrast, if anything, is one of the easier types of paint to get into even for total beginners. It’s complex in the sense that it may have tonal variance, unlike a perfectly opaque or singularly pigmented transparent paint, but that doesn’t exactly translate to “much worse than other paint lines”.
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Oct 9, 2022 05:01
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I put a dab of paint on the tops of bottles to easily reference what they look like when dry. Still not foolproof but it works
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Oct 9, 2022 05:47
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I just wing it 
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Oct 9, 2022 06:08
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Paint extra sprue and mount all your paint bottles like scarecrows
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Oct 9, 2022 06:22
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Keep a couple test models primed different colors around ezpz.
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Oct 9, 2022 07:27
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Bored Online posted:Keep a couple test models primed different colors around ezpz. Literally do this. I keep a failed Ork Trukk scratchbuild and an old sci fi model vehicle around and just keep putting layers of paint on them, trying weathering techniques, and so on. Having something I can just hit with whatever technique is super useful.
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Oct 9, 2022 07:52
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Verisimilidude posted:I think you need to chill, first of all. I wasn’t attacking you, so please mind your tone and be respectful. Nah. Say what you mean in the first place. Don't make a pedant post with no explanation of your actual point, then huff because I'm not humoring what looks like a pointlessly pedantic poo poo post that added zero to the conversation. I'm not convinced we're having the same argument. I was talking about the problem with buying contrast paints going by pot colour, in a conversation kicked off from a beginner painter potentially buying contrast paints.
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Oct 9, 2022 07:55
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I just had a birthday and my fiancee bought me the citadel paint + tools set and a box of reivers, so I got the opportunity to paint my first mini in a decade+ I'm rusty as all heck, but I'd forgotten how incredibly fun painting can be. The smell of the gw plastic glue really brings me back :3 Always wanted to paint crimson fists back in the day, and it seemed to be a good fit with the paints I have available. Dude on the left came together on friday while I was still trying to remember how paints worked, while the guy on the right was finished yesterday, and I think he's a vast improvement- though I see a lot of dumb sloppy mistakes in the picture that I missed during painting- definitely gonna have to go back and fix some stuff up, plus putting in the time to file off those mold lines on every subsequent model  Also dang, the detail on these primaris minis is pretty crazy compared to the old chunky space marine boys I was used to
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Oct 9, 2022 09:11
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I think I need to go and buy some different shades of contrast brown as these skaven are coming out a bit dark. Also, I'm sticking to buying unpainted models from now on, unless it's something special. Stripping sucks.
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Oct 9, 2022 22:56
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Buying cheap, second-hand, shittily painted models that you have to strip sounds like a good idea in theory, but in practice it's very rarely worth it due to the unknowable factor of the end effort required. But getting burned on that skinflinted decision is something everyone does and has to learn from.
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Oct 9, 2022 23:21
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if they’re shittily painted they’re likely also shittily assembled, and in ways that are a pita to fix
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Oct 9, 2022 23:24
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It's the best way to get metal models though, those strip great.
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Oct 9, 2022 23:26
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I bought some 3D printed bases for some Rubric Marines and I'm having the hardest time getting my test model to stay glued to the base. It had been suggested to me that the bases should be washed before I try to glue figures to them but that runs contrary to what I've heard about 3D printed stuff. Not that I object to giving them a quick wash but not having to do so would be even easier but also I've never had this sort of trouble before. Is there a trick to this or should I just expend the slight effort to wash the drat things?
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