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So with cold weather coming up I want to try to tackle a woodworking project I've been mulling over for a minute: a fairly large shadowbox. But.. I don't have any plans for one. Can any goons recommend somewhere that offers good plans for something like this? I wouldn't mind paying for them, but I have no idea where to start other than googling "shadowbox plans" lol
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Oct 9, 2022 14:45
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| # ? May 21, 2024 15:16 |
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Some of my favorite finishes are terrible about drying on the shelf but they'll last more or less indefinitely if I fill the can back up to the top with marbles as I use up the contents. So long as the lid is on at all air leaking into the container is a negligible issue, the ziplock bag isn't really changing anything, but you want to force as much of the air sitting around in the top of the can out as possible. Marbles are cheap as hell, non-reactive, and reusable. All those poor little kids that you schooled playing keepsies just so your finishes don't dry out. Oh, the humanity.
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Oct 9, 2022 19:46
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rly these days they mostly forfeit the match soon as I dump out my yellowed, oozing collection
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Oct 9, 2022 20:45
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I’ve been working on my first wood working project. Built a miter jig to make picture frames and the first frame is done save for finish. Curly maple is the material for the frame with contrasting splines because that seemed easy. Finishing is unknown territory for me. Is the a recommended way to finish curly maple? I don’t want the frame to be nuts and take attention away from the art. It will be holding a black and white photo, so I’d like to stay on the light side of natural.
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Oct 10, 2022 02:54
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Sadi posted:I’ve been working on my first wood working project. Built a miter jig to make picture frames and the first frame is done save for finish. Curly maple is the material for the frame with contrasting splines because that seemed easy. Finishing is unknown territory for me. Is the a recommended way to finish curly maple? I don’t want the frame to be nuts and take attention away from the art. It will be holding a black and white photo, so I’d like to stay on the light side of natural. Shellac is idiot proof.
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Oct 10, 2022 03:00
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Shellac is a pretty good choice but my first choice would be Danish Oil. It takes about 30 minutes to do two coats, which should be enough, no further sanding required, leaves a nice matte finish. For something like a picture frame that doesn't need a ton of protection, it's nice and easy.
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Oct 10, 2022 03:14
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2nding danish oil, it just workstm
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Oct 10, 2022 03:44
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Sadi posted:I’ve been working on my first wood working project. Built a miter jig to make picture frames and the first frame is done save for finish. Curly maple is the material for the frame with contrasting splines because that seemed easy. Finishing is unknown territory for me. Is the a recommended way to finish curly maple? I don’t want the frame to be nuts and take attention away from the art. It will be holding a black and white photo, so I’d like to stay on the light side of natural. A clear finish like the Danish oil mentioned is perfect. I don't recommend staining, I spent a ton of time trying to stain some non-curly maple once and it was pretty tough to get it to look decent.
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Oct 10, 2022 04:24
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Oh yeah, when I say Danish oil, I definitely mean one without a stain or other color. I've had good results with Watco, it does add a little warmth and will yellow a bit over time, but any oil-based finish will. If you really want as little color change as possible, water-based polyurethane is probably your easiest option.
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Oct 10, 2022 04:46
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Completed most the woodwork on the wood and bin store, just need to clad and mount the door, then batten and finally slate the roof. There's something about working on big stuff that's very satisfying. The bit that was most rewarding was casting the pylons out of concrete using some plant pots.  
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Oct 10, 2022 13:21
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Stultus Maximus posted:Shellac is idiot proof. It's me, the idiot who screwed up shellac. I was using brush-on though and applied too thickly. A spray can of shellac is as easy as spray, let dry, and then buff with some steel wool to get a very nice finish. However, I'm going to suggest boiled linseed oil and wax. Mop on oil, let penetrate for 30ish minutes, wipe off excess. Here's the hard part: wait a week. Seriously, it's the hardest part, you want to have a nice finished project and you just have to put it in the corner to cure for a few days. Patience, it's a beast. Then a wax finish on top with some paste wax. There are also a million videos and 2 million opinions on what's the 'best' or 'easiest' finish, but this is one that I found to be especially helpful when I was figuring things out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbiXJd_1l8Y
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Oct 10, 2022 14:50
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Johnny Truant posted:So with cold weather coming up I want to try to tackle a woodworking project I've been mulling over for a minute: a fairly large shadowbox. But.. I don't have any plans for one. Can any goons recommend somewhere that offers good plans for something like this? I wouldn't mind paying for them, but I have no idea where to start other than googling "shadowbox plans" lol I mean, that's probably what I would do? "Shadowbox" is incredibly vague and how you'd want to design it is going to depend on what you want to use it for, how you want it to look, and how big you want it to be. It's basically just a box, though? Unless you're going to see the back I'd probably make it basically like a drawer (with a plywood bottom) except that what would be the face of the drawer is just another side. (Well, and I'd probably miter the corners which I wouldn't bother with on a drawer.) oXDemosthenesXo posted:A clear finish like the Danish oil mentioned is perfect. I don't recommend staining, I spent a ton of time trying to stain some non-curly maple once and it was pretty tough to get it to look decent. Particularly for hardwoods if you want to significantly change the color dye (or "dye stain") is wildly superior to regular stain. Just keep in mind that at least for water based dye/dye stain you really don't want to apply like you would regular stain—it will get fully absorbed into the wood and that's what you should let it do if you want color intensity (if you don't want the color as intense as that would make it, dilute your dye).
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Oct 10, 2022 15:36
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Shelvocke posted:Completed most the woodwork on the wood and bin store, just need to clad and mount the door, then batten and finally slate the roof. There's something about working on big stuff that's very satisfying. The bit that was most rewarding was casting the pylons out of concrete using some plant pots. Are those 4 x 4's maple?
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Oct 10, 2022 22:22
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I made a thing to hold my cutting boards so they can get the gently caress off of my counter. (I had one of those little things that holds 3 of them upright and I hated it.) I put a couple scratches on the front installing it that I probably need to sand off (and then put Watco on again). That is all.
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Oct 10, 2022 22:29
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Wallet posted:I made a thing to hold my cutting boards so they can get the gently caress off of my counter. (I had one of those little things that holds 3 of them upright and I hated it.) Nice! I did something similar for my kitchen and it's one of the best storage upgrades I've done. I'm gonna guess the wood you used is cherry?
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Oct 11, 2022 00:29
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A few months ago I built this stool using some "select" SPF 2x4s. I don't know if it was just Menards being Menards or when they were milled (bought back in June, they have March dates on the tags) but they were kinda rough. Good enough for a first attempt but I'd like to practice some more. I noticed Home Depot has some Douglas Fir 2x4s in addition to some "regular" (probably also SPF) 2x4s. Would Doug Fir be a better wood for a shop stool (and worth a small premium) or are the nicer SPF studs gonna work just as well in that application?
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Oct 11, 2022 03:06
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Taking a bit of a sabbatical to work on things I actually care about and one of them is my bigass miter station project that's been progressing in fits and starts for over a year now. Finally got to the point where the router lift station is just about done! These are all from today.     Turns out I don't have the proper sized hole saw for the hose that'll go from that Y connector below the dust chamber up through the countertop and to the fence :| Once that's taken care of though I can call the router part "complete"! Plan for the dust collection is to hook up the portable shop vac to that mounted gate on the left. At some point I'll hook it up to the big dust collection system but that's on the other end of the shop, probably take care of it when I upgrade everything to sturdy PVC instead of the extendy blue Rockler hoses I currently have everywhere. Someday.
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Oct 11, 2022 03:57
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FISHMANPET posted:A few months ago I built this stool using some "select" SPF 2x4s. I don't know if it was just Menards being Menards or when they were milled (bought back in June, they have March dates on the tags) but they were kinda rough. Good enough for a first attempt but I'd like to practice some more. I noticed Home Depot has some Douglas Fir 2x4s in addition to some "regular" (probably also SPF) 2x4s. 2x4s are always gonna be kind of rough, no matter the material. They're designed for construction, not for frequent handling. So while you can dig through the pile to find nicer ones, there's limits to how "nice" they'll be. The Select ones just lack obvious surface defects like knots and wane, they won't be sanded smooth or anything like that. If you want the wood to look and feel nicer, then it's on you to do the surfacing work yourself. tl;dr no the douglas fir wood won't be any nicer than the SYP. It'll be a bit denser/stronger, and it'll smell a bit different, but it's still a construction-grade piece of wood intended to bear loads and providing a nailing surface to mount plywood on.
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Oct 11, 2022 04:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Nice! I did something similar for my kitchen and it's one of the best storage upgrades I've done. Mahogany with natural watco on it.
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Oct 11, 2022 07:53
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Mr. Mambold posted:Are those 4 x 4's maple? The outer frame is oak, the slats across the floor are actually unknown, I ripped them up from a slab I found in a burn pile at the sawmill. It's most likely redwood (Scots pine), as are the roof slats, and the cladding.
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Oct 11, 2022 11:14
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Are router tables somewhat universal? I have a craftsman plunge router that fits the table but is overall a PITA to use with my generic router table. (Adjustment of depth is not easy/intuitive, and changing bits is also a bit fucky) Is there a suggested router that works best with a generic table, or should i buy a new matching router and table (or permanent router table instead?)
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Oct 11, 2022 16:09
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toplitzin posted:Are router tables somewhat universal? The tables are tables. The throat plate needs to match the manufacturer.
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Oct 11, 2022 16:15
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Stultus Maximus posted:The tables are tables. The throat plate needs to match the manufacturer. Thanks! The throat plate matches/fits my current router, but function is still fair to middlin. Sound like it's a router problem, and not the table. Perhaps a new router will be better, and i'll go see if it's a universal throat plate or just happened to work with my current one.
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Oct 11, 2022 16:17
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Shelvocke posted:The outer frame is oak, the slats across the floor are actually unknown, I ripped them up from a slab I found in a burn pile at the sawmill. It's most likely redwood (Scots pine), as are the roof slats, and the cladding. That looks like with a little effort, you could make a sauna on one side, woodbin on the other.
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Oct 11, 2022 17:11
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Today I learned that Rockler sells pre-flattened live edge slabs for a pretty reasonable price, if you don't have ready access to a sawmill. Whole lotta canary in stock, at the moment.
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Oct 11, 2022 17:32
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toplitzin posted:Thanks!
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Oct 11, 2022 17:56
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 I found a guy who does small time milling and furniture making and anyway I have this spalted beech now. Two of the boards are 30mm thick. and one is 50mm. Any ideas? Could get a nice small table top from two of them I think, and perhaps use the 3rd for legs/base. Mr. Mambold posted:That looks like with a little effort, you could make a sauna on one side, woodbin on the other. That is a great idea. Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 19:45
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Spalted beach is really nice, if that were me I'd resaw them down and use them as door panels for a bunch of different pieces of furniture.
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Oct 11, 2022 20:24
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yeah a little goes a long way with spalted wood imo, especially since nice structurally sound stuff doesn't come by every day.
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Oct 11, 2022 20:55
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I've been messing around on the lathe with some wood I stole from my cousin after he had to chop up a tree. I've never been able to make a captive ring until now but I finally succeeded. I wasn't able to hollow it out because I was originally just trying to make a captive ring and assumed it was going to break like all the others I tried. However this one didn't so I decided to make a goblet. Wood was still very wet and all those cracks developed in about an hour.  Next time I'll do the order of operations a bit different. I don't remember what kind of tree it was but I'm guessing maple or box elder based on what is in this area. Obsoletely Fabulous fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 21:52
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I bought a piece of S4S 0.75" maple that I was going hang and make a height chart. I don't know if I missed it at the dealer or if it warped when it acclimated to the house, but it's got a pretty significant bow in it. Like 3/16" of a gap in the middle of the 7' plank, when there's no pressure on it. It's going to be trim nails into a stud through drywall - will those be enough to force the bow out and stay tight against the wall? Or will I have to rejoint the face somehow? My cheap hand plane does not seem up to the task. esquilax fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 22:03
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Is there a recommendation for random orbital sanders for non-professional homeowner usage? Looking to sand down and repaint some wooden shelves and other such things.
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Oct 11, 2022 22:06
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Khizan posted:Is there a recommendation for random orbital sanders for non-professional homeowner usage? Looking to sand down and repaint some wooden shelves and other such things. Most in each price bracket are equivalent. My corded Milwaukee has been a champ for me.
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Oct 11, 2022 22:28
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Khizan posted:Is there a recommendation for random orbital sanders for non-professional homeowner usage? Looking to sand down and repaint some wooden shelves and other such things. The bag on my corded Makita never wants to stay on but otherwise it is fine. I wish I had bought a cordless one just because the cord gets snagged or twisted sometimes.
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Oct 11, 2022 22:35
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Obsoletely Fabulous posted:The bag on my corded Makita never wants to stay on but otherwise it is fine. I wish I had bought a cordless one just because the cord gets snagged or twisted sometimes. I have the cordless Makita and the only issue I have with it is it's a little awkward/heavy to use one-handed. Also I think every sander's bag/hose attachment comes off, it's a slip fit over what is essentially a forbidden vibrator
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Oct 11, 2022 22:36
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Khizan posted:Is there a recommendation for random orbital sanders for non-professional homeowner usage? Looking to sand down and repaint some wooden shelves and other such things. I've had a corded Ridgid for a decade of diy use. Had to disassemble and de-gunk the power switch once, and diy a vacuum connection, but it's been great otherwise.
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Oct 12, 2022 00:27
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Put a normal rubber band onto the male part of the "slip fit" pipe/hose connection (of anything, this works for vacuum cleaners, etc too) and mash the female part over the rubber band and it'll stay put.
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Oct 12, 2022 00:43
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Leperflesh posted:Put a normal rubber band onto the male part of the "slip fit" pipe/hose connection (of anything, this works for vacuum cleaners, etc too) and mash the female part over the rubber band and it'll stay put.
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Oct 12, 2022 12:58
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Leperflesh posted:Put a normal rubber band onto the male part of the "slip fit" pipe/hose connection (of anything, this works for vacuum cleaners, etc too) and mash the female part over the rubber band and it'll stay put. The slip fit part of my Ryobi is hard plastic and I don't think I could mash it with a rubber band even if I tried, but it doesn't really fall off unlike the last one I had from Harbor Freight.
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Oct 12, 2022 14:45
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Fernco couplers with the screw clamps also work decently for keeping a hose on a power tool, especially if you've got a size mismatch.
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Oct 12, 2022 15:11
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