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Sydney Bottocks posted:Rattlecan varnishes only "frost" if there's too much moisture in the air (that also causes the "fuzz" when spraying paints or primers). The "frost" usually goes away if you put it under a warm light bulb or in a warm room; it's basically water trapped under the coat of varnish, that usually evaporates as the varnish on the mini cures. Heat helps speed that process up a bit.
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Oct 13, 2022 04:50
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Spanish Manlove posted:Is resin flammable or just a skin/lung/human irritant? Flammable, dont think so. Aresolized? Only one way to find out
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Oct 13, 2022 06:03
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Thanks for the helpful words, ya'll. I haven't painted much lately, but there is a new version of Warmaster rulebook being made by the community and they are asking for photos, so I'm trying my best to help out. The glare is really atrocious on the trees... I think I'm gonna try a new brand of varnish, either Scalecolor75's or Ak's ultra matte varnish and see if that helps I think the photo is great too. Your colours are so rich, i wonder what it would look like with a black background rather than white. I suspect the pictures will be really vibrant. Also, re rattlecan varnish, this is the stuff i use. High quality Japanese varnish from a local hobby shop intended for railways and other weirdo poo poo (as opposed to totally cool warhams which the chicks dig): https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product2/category_11/266.html
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Oct 13, 2022 06:33
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Spanish Manlove posted:Is resin flammable or just a skin/lung/human irritant? Lung irritant when inhaling fumes, but the resin itself can have a variety of different effects. I forgot the exact term for it, but the more direct exposure you have to it, the greater the likelihood of a nasty effect occurring. Typical contact with the uncured resin is on the skin of the forearms. Occasionally the legs, especially if you spill a bottle. After enough exposure it can cause a fairly severe reaction. But the outer layer of skin is probably not absorbing it nearly as well as lung tissue. Also, if the resin is exposed to UV light and it dries it can cause a lot of damage to that skin. Obviously not a worry for the lungs, except in the case of Trump covid treatments. The link below shows some chemical burns caused by a 3d printer resin spill. Not pleasant to look at. https://www.inov3d.net/resin-safety-a-potentially-hazardous-hobby/
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Oct 13, 2022 06:37
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Beffer posted:I think the photo is great too. Your colours are so rich, i wonder what it would look like with a black background rather than white. I suspect the pictures will be really vibrant.
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Oct 13, 2022 07:58
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Siivola posted:That's incredibly helpful to know, thanks! I was afraid the Finnish rattlecan season was completely over and I'd have to wait until May. Welcome! From what I've read and experienced, temperature isn't nearly as crucial to preventing spray paint/varnish issues as humidity and moisture are. Obviously I wouldn't go spraying in temperatures that would cause frostbite on exposed skin in ten minutes or less, but as long as it isn't snowing or raining, you should be okay to spray outdoors in cold weather (and conversely, even though it's always hot outside, the humidity in Florida was always so bad that I gave up ever trying to use rattlecans on minis when I lived down there years ago).
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Oct 13, 2022 10:55
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Yeah I've had that frosting effect show up in 90 degree weather, whereas I've sprayed (then dashed inside) in 45 degree weather and it was fine. If you're spraying in cold weather and happen to have a) a dehumidifier b) a space heater, those can help too. Obviously keep the minis a safe distance from the space heater! You don't want them to melt. But passing **warm** air over the paint speeds drying time and makes it easier for water to evaporate (thus preventing it from getting trapped under the paint, which is what creates the frosting effect).
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Oct 13, 2022 13:37
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Re: exploding hazards. I work at a fire hall and asked someone who knows what their talking about. It happens more with larger airbrushes for doing wall art where a spark sets off a particle cloud in an area with bad ventilation. She said she hasn't heard of it happening with a small one like used in this hobby but although it likely wouldn't do much more than take some hair she brought up the concern that painters often have lots of flammable chemicals like oil solvents (historically rags) on hand that could cause a secondary ignition, so something to think about.
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Oct 13, 2022 14:07
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 Almost done with my marine kill team for Kill Team. Just need to base these guys and then do their sergeant. And I guess figure out how to do transfers? 
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Oct 13, 2022 17:44
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Siivola posted:
Transfers are pretty easy to a flat surface, like a tank or wing. Transfers on to something curved or rounded, like a shoulder pad, are more difficult. One thing that can help is something that softens the decal which will allow the shape to slightly deform. I have had a lot of success with micro-sol and micro-set. One helps with adhesion and one helps with getting them to soften and lay flat. It is about 10-15 dollars for a pack of both, and they should last for nearly forever. One thing with transfers is that they often have a sheen that is different than the rest of the mini. So if you normally do not varnish your minis you will need to get some varnish to apply, probably a matte finish, over the decal.
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Oct 13, 2022 17:59
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Best tip is to matte varnish the surface you want to slap a transfer on. It helps a lot with giving it a smooth surface to work with. And then you slap some matte varnish over that to protect the transfer from scratches.
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Oct 13, 2022 18:01
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Cooked Auto posted:Best tip is to matte varnish the surface you want to slap a transfer on. It helps a lot with giving it a smooth surface to work with. And then you slap some matte varnish over that to protect the transfer from scratches. Do you mean gloss varnish for the smooth surface and then matte after?
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Oct 13, 2022 18:02
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tangy yet delightful posted:Do you mean gloss varnish for the smooth surface and then matte after? I usually just do matte varnish for both. Gloss works since the gloss will be muted by the matte varnish overcoat anyway.
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Oct 13, 2022 18:07
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Man, I'm a rebel with decals. I take my dry-rear end painted mini, slap some Micro Set on that bitch, slide the transfer over, dab up the liquid with a Q-Tip or paper towel and then once the decal is dry enough I just Micro Sol that poo poo. Then I usually coat it with some anti-shine matte varnish after. Brrrap brap. AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Oct 13, 2022 |
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Oct 13, 2022 18:12
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Siivola posted:Depends hugely on the paint. Reds and yellows are notoriously transparent, for instance, while blues and greens are more opaque. You'll have to experiment. I have researched quite a bit and I heard both great and terrible things about them. Honestly though the cost is something that has made me want to go for them once I can. Even if they're not the best of paints, they'll do the job and I am not wanting to push beyond tabletop quality anyway.
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Oct 13, 2022 18:21
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If you're on a budget I'd just get a pack of liquitex acrlyic gouache + a wet palette and just play around with blending colours Contrast paints and Speedpaints are just luxury purchases tbh
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Oct 13, 2022 18:40
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AndyElusive posted:Man, I'm a rebel with decals. I take my dry-rear end painted mini, slap some Micro Set on that bitch, slide the transfer over, dab up the liquid with a Q-Tip or paper towel and then once the decal is dry enough I just Micro Sol that poo poo. I tried this once on accident where I forgot to varnish the spot before doing the decals (I was impatient) and somehow scrubbed off some surrounding paint when I was trying to smooth out the decal. It was a redemptor's shoulder and I was planning on painting over the decal anyway but I felt like an idiot.
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Oct 13, 2022 18:49
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Eej posted:If you're on a budget I'd just get a pack of liquitex acrlyic gouache + a wet palette and just play around with blending colours virgin speedpainter vs chad art student
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Oct 13, 2022 18:50
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Also one (1) pot of nuln oil and you'll be able to easily paint anything to tabletop quality
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Oct 13, 2022 18:59
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Calhanol posted:I have researched quite a bit and I heard both great and terrible things about them. Honestly though the cost is something that has made me want to go for them once I can. Even if they're not the best of paints, they'll do the job and I am not wanting to push beyond tabletop quality anyway. Edit: AP's Strong Tone wash is cheaper than Nuln Oil, get that if you're on a budget.
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Oct 13, 2022 19:05
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Re: decals, I always gloss the surface first, apply the decal (using MicroSet and MicroSol as needed), and then gloss it again. This is because years ago, I watched a Doctor Faust video where he applied some decals to Viking shields (or something like that), then forgot to put a gloss coat on to protect it, and when he sprayed the shields with Testors Dullcote, the varnish actually crazed the surface of the decals. Not saying that's likely to happen with anyone else's decals or anything, but it's a habit I've always had, and it's worked well for me thus far.
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Oct 13, 2022 19:29
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Mixing colours is cool and all, especially if you are painting rag-tag warbands or RPG figures, but if you want two marines painted 6 months apart to have the same shade of blue-grey armour... Just buy a pot of whichever brands you likes version of spacewolf grey (Wolf Grey, Lupin Grey, Fenris Grey, whatever). Saves a lot of time and faff.Calhanol posted:I have researched quite a bit and I heard both great and terrible things about them. Honestly though the cost is something that has made me want to go for them once I can. Even if they're not the best of paints, they'll do the job and I am not wanting to push beyond tabletop quality anyway. People get quite militant about their paint brand preferences but every line I've tried (and I feel like I've tried most of the major ones) have had some good paints in their range and some absolute stinkers. Army painter are overall fine, their yellows suck out loud, their washes ("tones", so strong tone, weak tone, flesh tone) are great. A lot of their paints require more shaking than most to properly mix, if you go down the army painter route I'd recommend putting some kind of agitator in the bottles of any paints you feel are coming out watery, it'll make your life easier. A couple of ball bearings, beads, stainless steel bolts, or even bits of sprue if thats all you have. They've said all their paint moving forward has ball bearings in the bottle already, but if you end up with older stock you can add them yourself. Siivola posted:Edit: AP's Strong Tone wash is cheaper than Nuln Oil, get that if you're on a budget. IIRC strong tone is their dark brown wash, its a good general purpose wash, but its closer to Agrax Earthshade than it is to Nuln Oil. Dark tone is their black wash.
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Oct 13, 2022 19:36
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Oh yeah sorry I got the Citadel washes mixed up.
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Oct 13, 2022 19:45
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Oh yeah good point, mixing your own base colours for an army is probably going to drive you nuts. Blending your own shadows and highlights though, that's the good stuff.
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Oct 13, 2022 19:47
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SiKboy posted:Mixing colours is cool and all, especially if you are painting rag-tag warbands or RPG figures, but if you want two marines painted 6 months apart to have the same shade of blue-grey armour... Just buy a pot of whichever brands you likes version of spacewolf grey (Wolf Grey, Lupin Grey, Fenris Grey, whatever). Saves a lot of time and faff. IIRC, AP redid their washes a long while back, I find that Soft Tone is actually closer to Agrax Earthshade nowadays. Strong tone is like halfway between that and Dark Tone. Also, it should be pointed out for people that haven't used them but have used Citadel washes before, that ever since they revised the formula, AP's washes and the related mixing medium are more gel-like in consistency and so aren't quite as fluid as Citadel washes. Not saying they're good or bad because of that, just that they work differently and take a little getting used to if you've only ever used Citadel's shade washes before.
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Oct 13, 2022 19:49
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Siivola posted:Oh yeah sorry I got the Citadel washes mixed up. Easy done, I get that paint companies name their paints so they can trademark them or whatever, but it makes talking about them a pain in the arse. Especially GW, because I'm not overly familiar with most of their games any more, so names "rakarth flesh"... I have no idea what a rakarth is, or what colour its flesh is supposed to be. Is it a brown, a grey, a tan, a beige? GW have like 4-5 different green washes, and I have no earthly idea which one is which because of this. *Out of curiosity I've googled it and... Hes a dark elf beastmaster with almost no visible flesh on the figure as he's entirely armoured? I always assumed it was some sort of monster where you'd be painting a lot of its skin...
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Oct 13, 2022 19:56
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SiKboy posted:Easy done, I get that paint companies name their paints so they can trademark them or whatever, but it makes talking about them a pain in the arse. Especially GW, because I'm not overly familiar with most of their games any more, so names "rakarth flesh"... I have no idea what a rakarth is, or what colour its flesh is supposed to be. Is it a brown, a grey, a tan, a beige? GW have like 4-5 different green washes, and I have no earthly idea which one is which because of this. I believe he's depicted with a mask on in art but his original tabletop model had him with no mask on. The Total War Warhammer series uses models as reference vs the art so they went with no mask. Rakarth flesh also has the honor of being my least favorite paint in the Citadel line!
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Oct 13, 2022 20:04
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I remember as a teenager wondering what would be the most ridiculous job in the world. I landed on the person who has to come up with the names of paints. Easy enough for the GW dude who just says Rakarth or whatever. They have an endless list of stupid names to choose from. But imagine being the person at Dulux having to come up with unique names for their 35 shades of off white. 
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Oct 13, 2022 21:30
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Lucinice posted:I believe he's depicted with a mask on in art but his original tabletop model had him with no mask on. The Total War Warhammer series uses models as reference vs the art so they went with no mask. Aw, Rakarth Flesh isn't horrible, I used it to good effect on my Dark Eldar. The devil in Citadel's lineup is Ceramite White, which I've never managed to purchase without being pre-separated. Thankfully long past trying to use that. Projects back on hold so no real updates to post.
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Oct 13, 2022 21:32
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Beffer posted:I remember as a teenager wondering what would be the most ridiculous job in the world. I landed on the person who has to come up with the names of paints. Easy enough for the GW dude who just says Rakarth or whatever. They have an endless list of stupid names to choose from. But imagine being the person at Dulux having to come up with unique names for their 35 shades of off white. Now you can just have AI do it for you. I like snowbonk myself, but Turdly has a nice tone. 
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Oct 13, 2022 21:45
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So many good names in there Tag urself I'm Bank Butt
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Oct 13, 2022 21:53
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Stanky Bean or Stargoon
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Oct 13, 2022 21:53
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i'm moon moon
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Oct 13, 2022 21:55
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Now you can just have AI do it for you. I like snowbonk myself, but Turdly has a nice tone. That AI is dumb as hell, Homestar isn't brown at all!  Gonna paint my Plague Marines with Cladric Fug and Turdly, though.
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Oct 13, 2022 21:56
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I think Burble Simp is a slur
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Oct 13, 2022 21:56
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Army Painter did another uncomfortably "relaxed" corporate video where they say the word speedpaint and new and coming soon a lot, so a wave 2 is on the way.IncredibleIgloo posted:Now you can just have AI do it for you. I like snowbonk myself, but Turdly has a nice tone. Burf pink.
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Oct 13, 2022 22:15
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Caring Tan (actually grey)
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Oct 13, 2022 22:19
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I'm Dorkwood, which is also the name of my upcoming webcomic
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Oct 13, 2022 22:37
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Now you can just have AI do it for you. I like snowbonk myself, but Turdly has a nice tone. POWER GREY
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Oct 13, 2022 23:12
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What's a good inexpensive black primer? I finally finished my old GW rattlecan and I need something moreasonably priced
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Oct 13, 2022 23:51
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