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Foxfire_
Nov 8, 2010

Trabant posted:

edit: also, I badly need some better probes and leads for my bare-bones multimeter and power supply, goddamn this is PITA to work with.
I use these at work. They aren't particularly cheap. Springs and crown tip instead of a point makes them more stable when poking tiny SMD pins. I think you can get similar things from amazon for much cheaper, but no idea about quality.

Is that chip a combined CPU+LCD, or is the display separate? The valuable parts if you end up replacing the PCB and just want something functionally equivalent are the satisfying/reliable buttons and a display that fits the case. The CPU is easily replaced by a modern microcontroller.

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Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Thanks for the recs!

Re: LCD and chip, they appear to be discrete as there's a sizeable gap between the LCD and the front of the board (with the chip on the back):



And yeah, finding a new perfectly fitting screen (40mm x 18mm) isn't something I have high hopes for. I wouldn't even want to guess as to how I would separate the screen if it came to that though, I've never even attempted that kind of thing.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Well you guys were right about the valve configuration, I should've looked at it closer after it was mentioned. There is a third port on the push button that exhausts after you let go. So it's a manually actuated 3/2 valve I think.

On the other hand I was able to make the valve I bought actuate using the PLC so I'm on the right track there. It just gets stuck open after it cycles.

On that note, I think this is what I should be looking for in the correct valve? The PLC is outputting 120VAC, not DC like I said earlier.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/pneumatic_components/directional_control_solenoid_valves/solenoid_valves/avs-3312-120a

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

A Proper Uppercut posted:

Well you guys were right about the valve configuration, I should've looked at it closer after it was mentioned. There is a third port on the push button that exhausts after you let go. So it's a manually actuated 3/2 valve I think.

On the other hand I was able to make the valve I bought actuate using the PLC so I'm on the right track there. It just gets stuck open after it cycles.

On that note, I think this is what I should be looking for in the correct valve? The PLC is outputting 120VAC, not DC like I said earlier.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/pneumatic_components/directional_control_solenoid_valves/solenoid_valves/avs-3312-120a

If the PLC is 120VAC, then yes that valve/actuator combo is correct.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Stack Machine posted:

Those power values are also only given as typical so they don't constitute a guarantee. Meanwhile, just down the datasheet is a max THD spec at 1W into a 4 ohm load of only 0.06%. That means that with a fresh part in that configuration, if you measure more THD than that you can call up a sales rep, return it, and make some engineers sweat.

I really like openscad for the things I've used it for (laser cut cases, a giant novelty solderless breadboard for a friend's bachelor party, post-processing .stl files to add features for 3D-printing, a panel with a vent, one switch, and one power connector) , but I'll be the first to admit this all rings very true, and if I were laser cutting instrument panels I don't think it'd be the first thing I'd try.

The general cantankerousness is why I compared it to LaTeX. It's the simplest viable tool for its niche. I imagine a lot of people would say it's far too simple to be viable for much of anything. It models everything as polygonal meshes only and it's easy to get it to generate way too many polygons and crash or lock up. Unless you tell it otherwise it also just generates the same regular polygon to approximate every circle, so tiny screw holes and giant wheels have the same complexity. You can pass in a parameter to change this for each circle/cylinder/sphere, but now you're manually managing something that most CAD software does automatically as a matter of course (or doesn't need because I imagine in "real" solid modeling software not all geometry is polygonal).

Comparing OpenSCAD to LaTeX is brilliant. This is the perfect analogy.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
I've got a Halloween prop that I bought a couple years ago that has an apparently failing motor. It's a clown that's supposed to sway back and forth, but it only works for a few seconds before stopping. I disengaged the motor from the rest of the prop to see if it would keep running without any burden on it, and it runs for a little bit longer before sputtering out. It starts to whine, then stutters, turning very jerkily for a few seconds, and then completely dies. The length of time it runs changes based on how long it's unplugged for between attempts. Is it overheating? I've got video if it helps, but it's basically just what I've described here.

Any chance popping it open and throwing some grease in there might help, or is this just symptoms of a dying motor?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Slugworth posted:

Any chance popping it open and throwing some grease in there might help, or is this just symptoms of a dying motor?

Good to very good. Try light oil first, then grease.

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

Clean it with some alcohol while you have it apart, it's probably all gunked up. I have a desk fan that every few years requires taking apart, cleaning, and re-lubricating the motor, but after I do that it works like new for another few years.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Shouldn't we be paying attention to what we use to lubricate what are likely plastic gears?

E: I like keeping a tube of superlube around.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Oct 13, 2022

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

CopperHound posted:

Shouldn't we be paying attention to what we use to lubricate what are likely plastic gears?

E: I like keeping a tube of superlube around.

I like to lube plastic mechanisms with acetone personally

Foxfire_
Nov 8, 2010

Clown's haunted, find a priest or a skeezy university professor with a side hustle

Foxfire_
Nov 8, 2010

A Proper Uppercut posted:

Well you guys were right about the valve configuration, I should've looked at it closer after it was mentioned. There is a third port on the push button that exhausts after you let go. So it's a manually actuated 3/2 valve I think.

On the other hand I was able to make the valve I bought actuate using the PLC so I'm on the right track there. It just gets stuck open after it cycles.

On that note, I think this is what I should be looking for in the correct valve? The PLC is outputting 120VAC, not DC like I said earlier.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/pneumatic_components/directional_control_solenoid_valves/solenoid_valves/avs-3312-120a
If it doesn't already have one and you're buying more stuff anyway, add a manual valve to the incoming supply line so there's an easy way to make it stop doing things without waiting out the cycle / if the software's messed up and is constantly triggering it.

These are automationdirect's twist-to-release push buttons. You mix-and-match a button kind, mounting adapter, and separate valve. I think they only make the valves for them in 5/32 though, so that specific series of parts might not work for you.

namlosh
Feb 11, 2014

I name this haircut "The Sad Rhino".

Splode posted:

I like to lube plastic mechanisms with acetone personally

Eh, just throw some WD-40 on it

dont do this

I would blow Dane Cook
Dec 26, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 30 hours!
So I got this soldering practice kit working last night:

https://i.imgur.com/yzyxYK1.mp4

Then I looked at the instructions and they said this:




Does anyone want to look at the schematic and tell me which joints I should be looking at to get the lights looking like figure 2?


ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
That's a fun riddle.


Unfortunately, the answer is that it's just a set of SIPOs and latches, so essentially the only thing that could go wrong there is in the STC89's firmware


edit: Double check those resistor networks though, RP1-8

ante fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Oct 13, 2022

I would blow Dane Cook
Dec 26, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 30 hours!
Yeah those resistor networks are very annoying to solder, I'll focus on them.

I would blow Dane Cook
Dec 26, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 30 hours!
After soldering the resistor networks and a million other things and getting no change, I went and had a look at main.c



code:
#include "STC89C5X.h"
#include "intrins.h"


sbit AB1 = P0^0;
sbit AB2 = P0^1;
sbit AB3 = P0^2;
sbit AB4 = P0^3;
sbit AB5 = P0^4;
sbit AB6 = P0^5;
sbit AB7 = P0^6;
sbit AB8 = P0^7;
sbit AB9 = P1^0;
sbit AB10 = P1^1;
sbit AB11 = P1^2;
sbit AB12 = P1^3;

sbit CLK1 = P2^0;
sbit CLK2 = P2^1;
sbit CLK3 = P2^2;
sbit CLK4 = P2^3;
sbit CLK5 = P2^4;
sbit CLK6 = P2^5;
sbit CLK7 = P2^6;
sbit CLK8 = P2^7;
sbit CLK9 = P4^0;
sbit CLK10 = P4^1;
sbit CLK11 = P4^2;
sbit CLK12 = P4^3;

sbit LE1 = P3^0;
sbit LE2 = P3^1;
sbit LE3 = P3^2;
sbit LE4 = P3^3;
sbit LE5 = P3^4;
sbit LE6 = P3^5;
sbit LE7 = P3^6;
sbit LE8 = P3^7;
sbit LE9 = P1^4;
sbit LE10 = P1^5;
sbit LE11 = P1^6;
sbit LE12 = P1^7;



void Delay500ms()		//@8.000MHz
{
	unsigned char i, j, k;

	i = 3;
	j = 137;
	k = 123;
	do
	{
		do
		{
			while (--k);
		} while (--j);
	} while (--i);
}



void disp_led(unsigned char d)
{

	unsigned char i;
	
	LE1=LE2=LE3=LE4=LE5=LE6=LE7=LE8=LE9=LE10=LE11=LE12 = 0;
	for(i=0;i<8;i++)
	{
		if((d&1) == 0)
		{
			AB1=AB2=AB3=AB4=AB5=AB6=AB7=AB8=AB9=AB10=AB11=AB12=0;
		}
		else
		{
			AB1=AB2=AB3=AB4=AB5=AB6=AB7=AB8=AB9=AB10=AB11=AB12=1;
		}
		
		CLK1=CLK2=CLK3=CLK4=CLK5=CLK6=CLK7=CLK8=CLK9=CLK10=CLK11=CLK12=1;
		_nop_();_nop_();_nop_();_nop_();_nop_();_nop_();_nop_();_nop_();
		CLK1=CLK2=CLK3=CLK4=CLK5=CLK6=CLK7=CLK8=CLK9=CLK10=CLK11=CLK12=0;
		d=d>>1;
	}
	
	LE1=LE2=LE3=LE4=LE5=LE6=LE7=LE8=LE9=LE10=LE11=LE12 = 1;
}



void main(void)
{
	
	disp_led(0);

	while(1)
	{
		
		disp_led(1);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<1);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<2);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<3);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<4);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<5);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<6);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<7);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(0xff);
		Delay500ms();
		
	}
	
	
}
My interpretation of the left shifts in the main function is that the leds would look like this: (which is what I already have), but I could be misunderstanding the disp_led function

code:
0000 0001
0000 0010
0000 0100
0000 1000
0001 0000
0010 0000
0100 0000
1000 0000
1111 1111

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Foxfire_ posted:

If it doesn't already have one and you're buying more stuff anyway, add a manual valve to the incoming supply line so there's an easy way to make it stop doing things without waiting out the cycle / if the software's messed up and is constantly triggering it.

These are automationdirect's twist-to-release push buttons. You mix-and-match a button kind, mounting adapter, and separate valve. I think they only make the valves for them in 5/32 though, so that specific series of parts might not work for you.

There's a big ole shutoff right at the incoming air input on the setup I bought, appreciate the looking out though.

Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003

If you look at how those shift registers connect to the buffers, you can clearly see Q0->1D Q1->2D, Q2->3D, Q3->4D
But then it reverses and goes Q4->8D, Q5->7D, Q6->6D, Q7->5D.
And then it appears just looking at the PCB the LEDs run straight off the buffer outputs pin-by-pin.

So I don't see how it would expect to work unless you account for that in the step order.

I would expect you'd have to do something like:
code:
		disp_led(1);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<1);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<2);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<3);
		Delay500ms();

		disp_led(1<<7);
		Delay500ms();

		disp_led(1<<6);
		Delay500ms();

		disp_led(1<<5);
		Delay500ms();		

		disp_led(1<<4);
		Delay500ms();

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Had a thought today and couldn’t figure out the answer. How come there aren’t really any exponential converter ICs? Those circuits are complex enough to be worth abstracting to a chip. Are they just not very common?

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
You could say that about any number of circuits involving an op amp and a handful of jelly bean components. Hundreds, probably.


There are too many application specific values that you need to choose for yourself, in addition to deciding how good (expensive) you need your op amp to be.


The age of an IC existing for everything came about around the same time that credible DSP microcontrollers started existing, too. The eurorack stuff is still firmly in the age of 7400 series logic

I would blow Dane Cook
Dec 26, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 30 hours!

Rescue Toaster posted:

If you look at how those shift registers connect to the buffers, you can clearly see Q0->1D Q1->2D, Q2->3D, Q3->4D
But then it reverses and goes Q4->8D, Q5->7D, Q6->6D, Q7->5D.
And then it appears just looking at the PCB the LEDs run straight off the buffer outputs pin-by-pin.

So I don't see how it would expect to work unless you account for that in the step order.

I would expect you'd have to do something like:
code:
		disp_led(1);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<1);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<2);
		Delay500ms();
		
		disp_led(1<<3);
		Delay500ms();

		disp_led(1<<7);
		Delay500ms();

		disp_led(1<<6);
		Delay500ms();

		disp_led(1<<5);
		Delay500ms();		

		disp_led(1<<4);
		Delay500ms();


So it would look like this?


I guess what i'm really worried about is whether it should be one light turning on at a time (like I have now) or multiple lights turning on like in the instructions (Figure 2):

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
What do you think should happen, given that code and circuit? Follow the data

Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003
Yes the lights are doing exactly what I would expect given the schematic and the code you showed. I don't see anything out of place that would indicate soldering problems.

The code is shifting a single bit (Just a 1) over by different amounts, so you'd just see a single light on at once.

And if 0xFF (1111 1111) is everything on, it should be 0x55 or 0xAA that would produce the 0101 0101 or 1010 1010 pattern, no? And nothing in the code is doing that. The instructions are just bad.

I would blow Dane Cook
Dec 26, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 30 hours!
Thanks for that. Mystery solved I guess.

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

Congratulations on your correct welding

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

If anyone is interested, I'm developing a Bear Radar to guard my picnic basket while camping in my minivan. It's a network of radar + thermal motion sensors that chat with each other over radio. The idea is to go full sci-fi / heist movie with the design.

Each sensor node has:
Nordic nRF52840 ARM processor
Bluetooth LE
900 MHz LoRa radio
U-blox GPS
BNO055 orientation sensor (up, north)
Passive IR motion detection
Radar
LED floodlight

My plan is to set up a few nodes around my campsite in the evening. They'll watch my stuff and compare notes over 900 MHz. If they see a bear, they can wake me up and I'll scare it away.

It is, of course, ridiculously over-engineered because it incorporates every cool module I've ever wanted to play with. It's basically a sensor + radio dev board. And although I don't plan to, it should be possible to port Meshtastic to this hardware pretty easily.

So far I've hand-soldered one board and it seems to work ok, so I'm putting together all the files to get another 10 made in a factory. That includes the BOM, pick and place data, test and debugging docs, etc.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

How will this system differentiate a bear from, say, a raccoon

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

I also would not want a raccoon stealing my pic-a-nic basket so that might not actually be a problem

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
You just have to change the alarm sound from "Warning: Bear detected!" to "Warning: Bear or an animal with similar food stealing tendencies detected!"

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

It won't be able to tell the difference between a bear, human, deer, or probably a raccoon. But that's fine. I don't want raccoons in my stuff either (though they probably won't open containers, these are wilderness raccoons, not professional suburban raccoons).

It would only be annoying if it triggered on mice or small birds. I think I can set detection limits to avoid very small animals, though.

e: it can also ID vehicles since the radar measures speed and direction (only towards/away, not full vector).

Charles Ford
Nov 27, 2004

The Earth is a farm. We are someone else’s Ford Focus.

Cojawfee posted:

You just have to change the alarm sound from "Warning: Bear detected!" to "Warning: Bear or an animal with similar food stealing tendencies detected!"

Still seems too specific, what if it’s a curious Bigfoot? Or murderous Wendigo? The message needs to cover all possibilities.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Sorry, an nvidia jetson will not fit within my power budget.

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

There are a lot of people who would pay a hell of a lot of money for a radar system capable of positively identifying a bigfoot

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

What about the turrets?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ss35wHcN6iQ

I would blow Dane Cook
Dec 26, 2008
Probation
Can't post for 30 hours!
Automated bear spray turret

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Remote controlled ultrasonic humidifier full of dog piss.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

ryanrs posted:

If anyone is interested, I'm developing a Bear Radar to guard my picnic basket while camping in my minivan.

This reminds my of my bagpipe project. During every step of the way I am considering how I can make a whole lot of these, thinking about ease of assembly and durability of components during assembly.

I'll probably wind up making a total of 1 if I'm lucky.

I salute you, fellow uber-engineer.

Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

I find it kinda fun to think about designs in a "well what if I want to make a thousand of these?" or "what if I want other people to build this?" way even if I'm 100% sure I'm gonna make one, maybe two (if I break the first one).

Like all my designs have specific board revisions and dates, the schematics have notes wherever something's not perfectly clear, and I try to streamline stuff and use "standardized" components (as in ones I have thousands of) so when I'm building it I can just pour out like 50 of the same resistor on my desk instead of having to go back to the parts bin every 10 seconds, etc. At least it's come in pretty helpful the like, two or three times I've had to completely re-spin a board cuz I hosed the design up so much I couldn't just bodge it :v:

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Shame Boy
Mar 2, 2010

That one guy who does fine art restoration on youtube does stuff like carefully tuck and fold corners of canvas behind the stretcher, then tack them in place out of sight, which he explains: "Why go through all the trouble? Nobody will ever see it and it doesn't have any effect on the front that people actually look at. But I know it's there."

I feel like a lot of my electronics designs are along those lines.

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