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Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
Tossed one of these led strips into my cart when I was checking out.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-d-rgb-led-edge-diffused-strip-500mm-white

It says 500mm, and I measured the outside of the case and I thought yeah that's about right it must be every case has a standard for this kind of thing. Nope, inside the case it's about 4cm too long. Vertically it's worse.

I guess it's flexible I can bend it around and fit it awkwardly in there.

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Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

SpartanIvy posted:

It's really annoying that every AquaComputer RGBpx connector is only rated for 90 LEDs because I'm using Lian Li Unifans with 32 LEDs per fan, and I have 2 chains of 3 which is 96 LEDs each. I'm trying to not use the Lian Li LConnect hubs/software because their software is garbage, but I haven't figured out a solution with AquaComputer hardware yet.

I'm wondering if those extra 6 LEDs will really cause any issues or not.

I'm confused about how this works. I bought one of these splitters on amazon



I figured it was like each cable can support 1 led "thing" and this just copies it to all of them, I was hoping to plug this splitter into the RGBpx connector on my aquacomputer thing and use the led software they have.

Are you telling me it's not going to just copy whatever I program, I have to keep the total number of leds less than 90?

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

I did a thing.


Hyte Revolt 3.
Alphacool 240mm crossflow rad - allows me to skip having a res
amd 3600x
GTX 1080 ti
Using barrow cpu pump block as heart of system.
Whole system going to a friend.

Coredump fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Sep 16, 2022

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Nolgthorn posted:

I'm confused about how this works. I bought one of these splitters on amazon



I figured it was like each cable can support 1 led "thing" and this just copies it to all of them, I was hoping to plug this splitter into the RGBpx connector on my aquacomputer thing and use the led software they have.

Are you telling me it's not going to just copy whatever I program, I have to keep the total number of leds less than 90?

PC RGB is ridiculously confusing for what it is. My problem is unique to the Lian Li Unifans because of how they join together so that multiple fans only have one cord controlling the fan function and the RGB function. Because of the arrangement of my fans I cannot get less than 3 of the fans on a single RGB cable. With every other fan out there, you could just hook each fan up individually to a splitter and it wouldn't be a problem because it would be 3 fans of 32 LEDs and not what is functionally 1 fan with 96 LEDs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_E5ySQTSrk

The splitter you linked takes a single ARGB signal and clones it to the other headers. So while you can power a LOT of RGB things with it, they will all receive the same ARGB signal which may or may not matter to you. If you are using a solid color for example, it doesn't matter, but if you're trying to use the neat effects that bounce colors between fans and things like that, it won't work as the software cannot address the LEDs properly. The AquaComputer hardware will only think you are addressing the LEDs of whatever fan/strip you have as the "primary" RGB to be cloned, and the splitter will replicate it to every other thing you've plugged in. As long as your "primary" RGB item doesn't have 90 addressable RGBs, AquaComputer will be happy. As mentioned above, since the Unifans all hook together, I functionally have 1 fan with 96 LEDs so that wouldn't work for me either.

Last night after making my initial post and doing more research, I discovered that the 32 LED count for unifans was specifically for the SL fan models, and I'm using the AL fan models, which seem to only have 20 or so LEDs, which means I should be below the AquaComputer RGBpx 90 LED limit. I'm going to test that later this weekend and if it works I'm going to order a Farbwerk 360 and Octo and ditch the LConnect hubs, assuming I can find an Octo in stock :v:

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
another nice option is just buying a dewire daisy chain strip you stick to your radiator to make all your cables somewhat manageable without tying yourself to a particular brand. rgb chaining might be a different matter though

the lian li subreddit does not inspire a lot of confidence in hardware and software qc, but at least their cases are great

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

kliras posted:

another nice option is just buying a dewire daisy chain strip you stick to your radiator to make all your cables somewhat manageable without tying yourself to a particular brand. rgb chaining might be a different matter though

the lian li subreddit does not inspire a lot of confidence in hardware and software qc, but at least their cases are great

Hindsight is 2020 but if I were to do it all over again I would definitely go this route with non-RGB fans and just use RGB strips or something.

It is incredibly frustrating how NICE the Lian Li hardware like cases and fans are, but the LConnect software is just... not good.

There really needs to be standardization across manufacturers because there are something like 4 or so competing 5v ARGB standards and it's loving nuts to try and work with. People just cobble and daisy chain ridiculous setups together to get their end results and there should be a better way.

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

SpartanIvy posted:

I functionally have 1 fan with 96 LEDs so that wouldn't work for me

It's amazing that companies don't seem to care, either. "Surely everyone will only buy our products these don't have to work with anything else." I went out of my way to buy the most generic things possible.

I saw all of the fancy things and didn't buy them. In the end I still needed all the same stuff as buying into their ecosystem would have forced me to buy, but at least they're all from different companies and work together.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



SpartanIvy posted:

Hindsight is 2020 but if I were to do it all over again I would definitely go this route with non-RGB fans and just use RGB strips or something.

It is incredibly frustrating how NICE the Lian Li hardware like cases and fans are, but the LConnect software is just... not good.

There really needs to be standardization across manufacturers because there are something like 4 or so competing 5v ARGB standards and it's loving nuts to try and work with. People just cobble and daisy chain ridiculous setups together to get their end results and there should be a better way.

I just went balls deep into corsair when I decided to go from no RGB to "all the RGB."

That reminds me its time to crack out the orange and purple. :ghost:

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I just tested and verified that the Lian Li AL120 fans do indeed 'only' have 20 LEDs, so I can use 3 of them connected together with an AquaComputer RGBpx header without exceeding the 90 LED limit!

So I have ordered a Farbwerk 360 and an Octo. The Octo will control the 6 radiator fans, 2 front fans, top fan, and rear fan as well as the 6 radiator fans RGB across it's 2 RGBpx channels. The Farbwerk 360 will control the RGB of the 4 case fans and CPU/GPU blocks.

Once that's all hooked up I will have everything controlled from just the AquaSuite software! :woop:

e: I will have to solder together some Lian Li 3-pin RGB to ASUS 3-pin RGB and a couple of Lian Li 3-pin RGB to RGBpx 4-pin to get everything hooked up, but that's pretty straight forward, just annoying.

SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Sep 17, 2022

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
What? All that talk was about nothing!

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
Ok, it's been a while since I last posted in this thread and I'd like to lean on someone for advice.

My current loop in what is (essentially) an O11 Dynamic (actual case is a Metallicgear Neo Qube) has a Corsair (XD5?) res/pump combo, Alphacool Eisblock for a 3070 and a Corsair XC7 CPU block on an i7 10700 (which I'm hoping to change to an i7 13700 when I rebuild soon, not decided on new block yet).

I moved house and my case got damaged so the power button is kind of funky and stays stuck in when I power on unless I push my finger into a panel in a certain place to make it pop back out. Whatever, it gave me an excuse to change my case, and I ordered a Thermaltake Level 20 XT.

This thing is HUGE. And with that, I figure I might as well make the most of it. I'm planning on getting 2x 420 rads to place on the top and maybe mount one of my previous 360 rads on the side or bottom, maybe even both of them. I know I'll be getting massive diminishing returns on something like this, but I'm hoping I'll barely need to have any fans turning most of the time.

My question really is, is my Corsair D5 pump/res combo going to have enough juice to reliability provide enough flow? If not, I guess my other option is to use two pumps in a dual loop system with 1x 420 & 1x 360 in each, right?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

a dmc delorean posted:

Ok, it's been a while since I last posted in this thread and I'd like to lean on someone for advice.

My current loop in what is (essentially) an O11 Dynamic (actual case is a Metallicgear Neo Qube) has a Corsair (XD5?) res/pump combo, Alphacool Eisblock for a 3070 and a Corsair XC7 CPU block on an i7 10700 (which I'm hoping to change to an i7 13700 when I rebuild soon, not decided on new block yet).

I moved house and my case got damaged so the power button is kind of funky and stays stuck in when I power on unless I push my finger into a panel in a certain place to make it pop back out. Whatever, it gave me an excuse to change my case, and I ordered a Thermaltake Level 20 XT.

This thing is HUGE. And with that, I figure I might as well make the most of it. I'm planning on getting 2x 420 rads to place on the top and maybe mount one of my previous 360 rads on the side or bottom, maybe even both of them. I know I'll be getting massive diminishing returns on something like this, but I'm hoping I'll barely need to have any fans turning most of the time.

My question really is, is my Corsair D5 pump/res combo going to have enough juice to reliability provide enough flow? If not, I guess my other option is to use two pumps in a dual loop system with 1x 420 & 1x 360 in each, right?

If you haven't already swapped cases just unplug the power pin headers and put your reset button pins onto them.

To actually answer your question I'm pretty sure any d5 has the ability to provide that flow and plenty more.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Please stop buying cases for power switches people.

Its more convenient to mount them externally anyway.

:negative:

On Off Power SW Cables, Black https://a.co/d/bFkl2W9

AutismVaccine
Feb 26, 2017


SPECIAL NEEDS
SQUAD

VelociBacon posted:

If you haven't already swapped cases just unplug the power pin headers and put your reset button pins onto them.

To actually answer your question I'm pretty sure any d5 has the ability to provide that flow and plenty more.

Imo it really depends on the thickness ( = number of parallel channels 1 for slim, 2 for med, 3 for something like a UT60) of the rads. If you dont want that D5 to go full force you need decently thick rads imo. Considering this, you really need to consider potential rad overlap in the corners, also need to plan how to connect them cause that needs space too.

(in my Silentbase 802 i wanted to use a UT60 420 and a UT60 360, but the thickness made that impossible, so i went with a UT60 280. Still i had to use the angle grinder to fit the 420 cause I used the connector holes on the vertical side).
I printed the side picture of the tower on a A4 paper and drew the rads in scale on that. Vendor information on how many rads fit in a tower are pretty much worthless)


Or do the logical choice and repair the loving switch :D. Also no one needs that many rads. A 420 and 280 can cool 600W with the D5 at 35% and fan speed at like 650rpm, no controlling needed just use fixed values in bios.
"I know I'll be getting massive diminishing returns on something like this," --> actually you will have a louder system due to having the D5 running higher than 50% and using lots of fans for having 3 degree lower CPU and GPU temps. good trade lol :D

AutismVaccine fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Oct 14, 2022

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream
I wanted a new case anyway, a broken power switch and dented front panel was the catalyst

VelociBacon posted:

If you haven't already swapped cases just unplug the power pin headers and put your reset button pins onto them.

To actually answer your question I'm pretty sure any d5 has the ability to provide that flow and plenty more.

Thank you!

Moey
Oct 22, 2010

I LIKE TO MOVE IT

spunkshui posted:

Please stop buying cases for power switches people.

Its more convenient to mount them externally anyway.

:negative:

On Off Power SW Cables, Black https://a.co/d/bFkl2W9

Am I the only one who doesn't shut down my poo poo?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Moey posted:

Am I the only one who doesn't shut down my poo poo?

That planets dyin cloud

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Moey posted:

Am I the only one who doesn't shut down my poo poo?

Why pay money to power poo poo I’m not using? Just put it to sleep.

The RGB disappears and the PC vanishes behind the tinted glass.

:cool:

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

For anyone using these things. They ship with three plugs in the front. When you remove them you are meant to put them on the bottom where there are HOLES ON THE BOTTOM OF THE RESERVOIR.

Just mentioning it, in case there was any potential oversight out there.

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

I've been sick all weekend and stayed in therefore behold:



I have added a flux capacitor to my case and removed the pump I didn't like very much. Unfortunately I can't get the rgb to do what I want because I'm stuck with MSI Center to adjust it. I bought a RGBx connector for the aquacomputer quadro but I bought the dang male to male one instead of the male to female one. Thanks again aquacomputer for using a bizarre connector type.

It's going to be a 70's roller disco in my case for awhile.

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord
What's up everyone, hope everyone is keeping it cool and dry.

I'm looking for a water block for a founder's edition rtx 3070

QUESTION: Is a waterblock for a "reference cooler" the same as a block for a "founders edition" ?

Moey
Oct 22, 2010

I LIKE TO MOVE IT

Trolling Thunder posted:

What's up everyone, hope everyone is keeping it cool and dry.

I'm looking for a water block for a founder's edition rtx 3070

QUESTION: Is a waterblock for a "reference cooler" the same as a block for a "founders edition" ?

Nope, FE boards are different from reference for the 3xxx to my knowledge. That is the case for the 3090 at least. I would assume it is the same for the 3070.

The FE PCBs have like a V notch/cut in the PCB for that flow through air cooling.

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord

Moey posted:

Nope, FE boards are different from reference for the 3xxx to my knowledge. That is the case for the 3090 at least. I would assume it is the same for the 3070.

The FE PCBs have like a V notch/cut in the PCB for that flow through air cooling.

right on -- glad I asked. Thank you!

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
I bought the Aquacomputer Quadro and it's doing it's job but I want to use it's RGB and can't figure out how to connect anything to it. It's a RGBpx connector and I need Addressable RGB, like found on the motherboard.



I bought a RGBpx to Addressable RGB connector from Aquacomputer but, despite my earlier confusion they don't actually have one that will fit on the Quadro.



Do I need to find a female to female RGBpx cable?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
You can use an rgbpx female to female cable to connect to that adapter to connect to your connector or you could do what I did and cut and solder the cable you need together so youre not in adapter hell.

Just keep in mind that rgbpx has a limit of 90 addressable LEDs, which is probably not an issue but it's worth mentioning.

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
I paid like $20 to have the connector shipped and now it's another $20 for a 4cm cable it's ridiculous. Just put it in an envelope why am I paying this much for a letter? It would help if anyone else sold these cables right.

Puts me in a bad mood. Now I see the small text "The adapter must be combined with a RGBpx connection cable" thanks Aquacomputer, maybe sell them together.

I refuse to accept this is my fault.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Nolgthorn posted:

I paid like $20 to have the connector shipped and now it's another $20 for a 4cm cable it's ridiculous. Just put it in an envelope why am I paying this much for a letter? It would help if anyone else sold these cables right.

Puts me in a bad mood. Now I see the small text "The adapter must be combined with a RGBpx connection cable" thanks Aquacomputer, maybe sell them together.

I refuse to accept this is my fault.

This isn't what you probably want to hear after ordering but you can find those cables in US based shops with much cheaper and faster shipping.

ModMyMods
Performance-PCs

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

SpartanIvy posted:

This isn't what you probably want to hear after ordering but you can find those cables in US based shops with much cheaper and faster shipping.

ModMyMods
Performance-PCs

I haven't ordered yet but I'm in europe

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Nolgthorn posted:

I haven't ordered yet but I'm in europe

Ah well then I have no idea why shipping is so much for you. I would have assumed you'd be getting way better deals on this stuff.

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
Tell me about it. The full cost is almost 20 bones but that includes that practically valueless item inside nothing makes sense.

DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.
So as someone who is fully stupid on water cooling systems, in an all-in-one systems do I still need to do an initial coolant fill or will it come pre-filled in box? If the former, does the initial coolant supply come in box or do I need to buy it in addition.

I'm going to buy / build a rig this weekend and this is going to be my first experience with liquid cooling.

If I'm just getting a fairly basic MSI Mag Coreliquid c360, is there really any special considerations aside from "make sure the case can mount the radiator"?

When I rig it up, it's it better to have the fans blowing into the case / radiator, or blowing out to pull the waste heat from the radiator plus other internals out of the case ? I'm guessing I'd set top and rear fans to inlet then?

Edit: link to the system I'm looking at is here https://www.msi.com/Liquid-Cooling/MAG-CORELIQUID-C360. Not terribly fancy, but it's the brand / model that my nearest microcenter will let me pick for AM5 sockets.

DeathSandwich fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Oct 21, 2022

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
i guess the one thing is to double check with (rgb) aio's whether they are hiding a hideous flail of rgb/pwm cables in the promotional shots by checking out some random installation video on youtube

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

DeathSandwich posted:

So as someone who is fully stupid on water cooling systems, in an all-in-one systems do I still need to do an initial coolant fill or will it come pre-filled in box? If the former, does the initial coolant supply come in box or do I need to buy it in addition.
To my knowledge they are pre-built and ready to go, you just hook it up. I don't know why they wouldn't pre-fill them. I think a lot of companies don't want theirs able to even be taken apart.

DeathSandwich posted:

When I rig it up, it's it better to have the fans blowing into the case / radiator, or blowing out to pull the waste heat from the radiator plus other internals out of the case ? I'm guessing I'd set top and rear fans to inlet then?
Generally to avoid dust, intake fans should have filters on them and there should be more air intake than exhaust. This creates pressure inside of your case so that more dust isn't being sucked in.

For dissipation performance you generally want air to come in from the sides or the bottom, and air to go out the sides or the top, due to thermodynamics. You also usually want any air that's going through a radiator to leave the case if it can especially if you don't have a top exhaust.

Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Oct 21, 2022

DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.

Nolgthorn posted:

To my knowledge they are pre-built and ready to go, you just hook it up. I don't know why they wouldn't pre-fill them. I think a lot of companies don't want theirs able to even be taken apart.

Generally to avoid dust, intake fans should have filters on them and there should be more air intake than exhaust. This creates pressure inside of your case so that more dust isn't being sucked in.

For dissipation performance you generally want air to come in from the sides or the bottom, and air to go out the sides or the top, due to thermodynamics. You also usually want any air that's going through a radiator to leave the case if it can especially if you don't have a top exhaust.

Good to know. I remember the positive case pressure thing from way back in the day when did builds way more regularly. I'm looking at a corsair 4000d case, so I'm going to front mount the radiator with those fans as output, and then in the rear and top mount fans will be configured for input. With 2x 140mm to and 1x 120 rear that should put me at net positive pressure.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

DeathSandwich posted:

Good to know. I remember the positive case pressure thing from way back in the day when did builds way more regularly. I'm looking at a corsair 4000d case, so I'm going to front mount the radiator with those fans as output, and then in the rear and top mount fans will be configured for input. With 2x 140mm to and 1x 120 rear that should put me at net positive pressure.

Yeah that is a good plan and you can put the radiator either way and still have the pump not at the high point in the system.

Just don't be too much of a rebel okay

DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.

VelociBacon posted:

Yeah that is a good plan and you can put the radiator either way and still have the pump not at the high point in the system.

Just don't be too much of a rebel okay



I'll try. :v:

I hate modern gamer aesthetic and how everything has RGB vomit all over it, but it's like the only cpu cooling my microcenter has that shows AM5 compatibility.

aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos
I had to unexpectedly had to upgrade my desktop from AM4 to AM5 since the motherboard went and I still had a Ryzen 2700 on an 240 Corsair 110i pro. I purchased a Corsair 5000D, Gigabyte X670, and a Ryzen 7900X. To cool it, I went with an Arctic Liquid Freezer ii 360 (Probably an overkill) but I can only use it with the tubes at the top when front mounting it. Even with the case being so big, the LF's radiator is just too thick to top mount. Does it really matter if the tubes are at the top? They do mention noise in this orientation.

I may just send it back and get a regular Corsair 280 or whatever brand is good.

DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.

aluminumonkey posted:

I had to unexpectedly had to upgrade my desktop from AM4 to AM5 since the motherboard went and I still had a Ryzen 2700 on an 240 Corsair 110i pro. I purchased a Corsair 5000D, Gigabyte X670, and a Ryzen 7900X. To cool it, I went with an Arctic Liquid Freezer ii 360 (Probably an overkill) but I can only use it with the tubes at the top when front mounting it. Even with the case being so big, the LF's radiator is just too thick to top mount. Does it really matter if the tubes are at the top? They do mention noise in this orientation.

I may just send it back and get a regular Corsair 280 or whatever brand is good.

So long as the pump unit (if its on the cpu portion) is below the top of the radiator you're fine. Most AIOs don't have enough tube length to feed up from the bottom of the mount anyway. The worst you might get is some bubbling noises somewhere down the line, but so long as the hoses are feeding down to the cpu it's not going to suck air unless you have an extreme evaporative problem.

I wound up with a Corsair h150i for my aio and I had to front mount it hoses up, and it's been perfectly fine so far.

aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos

DeathSandwich posted:

So long as the pump unit (if its on the cpu portion) is below the top of the radiator you're fine. Most AIOs don't have enough tube length to feed up from the bottom of the mount anyway. The worst you might get is some bubbling noises somewhere down the line, but so long as the hoses are feeding down to the cpu it's not going to suck air unless you have an extreme evaporative problem.

I wound up with a Corsair h150i for my aio and I had to front mount it hoses up, and it's been perfectly fine so far.

That's what I figured. The pump unit is below the top of the rad. I miss the days of small and easy to use air coolers, but I had a 60mm 80cfm delta fan on my old amd thunderbird setup which sounded like a jet engine.

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DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.

aluminumonkey posted:

That's what I figured. The pump unit is below the top of the rad. I miss the days of small and easy to use air coolers, but I had a 60mm 80cfm delta fan on my old amd thunderbird setup which sounded like a jet engine.

I did too before my most recent build, and it's a bigger pain in the rear end to install, but now it's together I'm way happier. Most performance air cpu coolers are the size of a brick and obnoxious to work around and I always get paranoid that they will break loose and pinball around if I ever go to move the case. Once the AIO is in, it's way lower profile on the mobo, it provides whole case airflow, and it's no louder than the case fans I would of installed in its place.

I thought I would of hated the RGB vomit of the capellix of this corsair aio, model, but it's actually less obnoxious than I thought and corsair actually had some slick RGB modes.

I guess in this from cyberpunk future we find ourselves in, RGB is the new neon.

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