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Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.

Lucinice posted:

I got some questions I want to ask

1) I've been looking into speedpaints and I keep hearing about a re activation issue. Is it as bad as it seems?
It depends on who you ask and what colors they were using. My understanding is that it is highly unpredictable.

Lucinice posted:

2) I want to do more layering and highlighting but is there a good guide out there to like mixing your own paints for those? I'd rather just find a way to like brighten up a base paint and use that for highlights than buying a whole new paint.
I think the best way to do this is get yourself a wet palette and a thin (consistency) acrylic matte medium. This will allow you to really control your color mixes and keep them at a working consistency for a longer period of time.

One caveat, though: mixing your own colors is great for one-off models, but if you're going to be doing large numbers of miniatures whose colors are intended to match (i.e. uniform colors or whatever), you can go mad trying to duplicate what you did previously.

EDIT: In terms of guides, brightening and darkening is about more than just adding white or black to a paint. Color theory is really important, and getting a good art book that explains it will help you do more with fewer colors.

Ilor fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Oct 18, 2022

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

WindwardAway posted:

Yeah, that's kind of what I figured 😅 I just want some metallic paint to go into the grooves like how a shade would, but obviously not to the same effect.

What would this accomplish though? Seeing as the grooves are supposed to be dark shadows which don't really reflect light.

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Ilor posted:

EDIT: In terms of guides, brightening and darkening is about more than just adding white or black to a paint. Color theory is really important, and getting a good art book that explains it will help you do more with fewer colors.
But you can start by adding sunny Caucasian skin tone to anything you want to lighten, and Payne Grey to anything you want to darken.

Thanks Vince!

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





WindwardAway posted:

Are there any metallic washes in existence? I know that's a little difficult in theory because the metallic quality would spread everywhere and just be more concentrated in the crevices and such, but I figured I'd ask anyway since I'm fairly new to miniature painting, and haven't discovered all the tips and tricks yet. I could thin a regular metallic paint, I guess, but I'm not sure if it would produce such a good result or if I'm doomed to paint the metallic parts individually.

I have had really good luck with a bright metallic color as the first layer then going over it with a contrast paint, if you want non standard metallic colors. My necrons have orangeish and blueish metallic achieved with the bright bronze/brass spray can as a first layer.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Lucinice posted:

I got some questions I want to ask

1) I've been looking into speedpaints and I keep hearing about a re activation issue. Is it as bad as it seems?
2) I want to do more layering and highlighting but is there a good guide out there to like mixing your own paints for those? I'd rather just find a way to like brighten up a base paint and use that for highlights than buying a whole new paint.

1. If you let them dry for ~24+ hours* and then varnish over them, they will not reactivate ever because water can't reach them! But yes, they do reactivate if water-based anything touches them until they have completely utterly dried, which is a looooooong time past where they look dry.

2. Yes, lots. There are many ways to do this, one is a "universal highlight color" where you just mix the same highlight color into all your paints. See Vince's video on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHg1yfX-dXI (there are many others by many other good painters) The basic thing is that you don't just want to "add white". That not only desaturates your base color, but looks bad, as the highlight is Your Color + Light Color, which is rarely if ever white. So you want to mix a warm color if your light source is warm (the sun, fire, etc.) or a cool color if your light is cool (the moon, blue glowing sword, etc.)


* some say 48 hours or more if you are brush-on varnishing.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Finished a Hellblaster from the Iron Knights Chapter today for my Deathwatch.



Just one more and I'll have a full combat squad of 5!

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Andy bringin' that rich cream goddamn

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 3 hours!

Lumpy posted:

* some say 48 hours or more if you are brush-on varnishing.

I had Speedpaints reactivate on a mini that had been sitting for a week, possibly longer, so I will definitely say YMMV.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Started a potential competition entry.



Lots of refining left on the metals but satisfied with the initial placement and tones. It's weird how natural NMM feels, especially when comparing it to something like skin. Think this dude will be a great exercise in that!

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I haven't had an issue with speedpaint reactivating but I'm also not going over spots touched by speedpaints.

I hear if you do medium instead of water for the paints it doesn't do it but I haven't bothered with that.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 3 hours!

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I haven't had an issue with speedpaint reactivating but I'm also not going over spots touched by speedpaints.

I hear if you do medium instead of water for the paints it doesn't do it but I haven't bothered with that.

I have and it hasn't worked for me, regardless of the ratio of SP medium to paint.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

AndyElusive posted:

Finished a Hellblaster from the Iron Knights Chapter today for my Deathwatch.

He owns! I love the highlights and especially the plasma effects

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



WindwardAway posted:

Are there any metallic washes in existence? I know that's a little difficult in theory because the metallic quality would spread everywhere and just be more concentrated in the crevices and such, but I figured I'd ask anyway since I'm fairly new to miniature painting, and haven't discovered all the tips and tricks yet. I could thin a regular metallic paint, I guess, but I'm not sure if it would produce such a good result or if I'm doomed to paint the metallic parts individually.

Hypothetically add some flow aid/improver to a chosen acrylic based metallic and then spot apply as if you're panel lining. I would not do this over large open faced areas, only spot applying to crevices.

It's at least something to test. I'm curious how the mica flakes would pool when the liquids surface tension is borked.


Ilor posted:

It depends on who you ask and what colors they were using. My understanding is that it is highly unpredictable.

I think the best way to do this is get yourself a wet palette and a thin (consistency) acrylic matte medium. This will allow you to really control your color mixes and keep them at a working consistency for a longer period of time.

One caveat, though: mixing your own colors is great for one-off models, but if you're going to be doing large numbers of miniatures whose colors are intended to match (i.e. uniform colors or whatever), you can go mad trying to duplicate what you did previously.

EDIT: In terms of guides, brightening and darkening is about more than just adding white or black to a paint. Color theory is really important, and getting a good art book that explains it will help you do more with fewer colors.

The counter to the bolded is just to make enough of the color once you get it where you want and throw it in a pot. Or record the recipe (which everyone who mixes should be doing anyway).

If you want to learn how to mix, I suggest not using miniature paints off the bat. For the most part these aren't pure pigment paints, and that's specifically why people have such a hard time mixing/being adventurous with color theory. Make no mistake though, artist grade paint still has its own material quirks; such as which colors are naturally opaque or translucent, but you will consistently get the same results if you put just a little learning in. Basic color theory will cover a great deal of bases and I highly recommend it. The easiest first lesson is that chroma and value are independent characteristics of color.

WindwardAway
Aug 22, 2022

Set your life on fire. Seek those who fan your flames.

Eej posted:

What would this accomplish though? Seeing as the grooves are supposed to be dark shadows which don't really reflect light.

No, only in certain places, not all over the entire figure. I mean the sort of glow you see when someone with superpowers activates them (this is probably not the best description I could give). But I guess then it's best for me to just paint it manually; I'm just being a bit lazy and looking for a quicker way to achieve this effect.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

When I asked the GF art major about mixing paints to get certain colors she just handed me a book of her swatches and said "go hog wild and figure it out" :v:

WindwardAway
Aug 22, 2022

Set your life on fire. Seek those who fan your flames.

The Demilich posted:

Hypothetically add some flow aid/improver to a chosen acrylic based metallic and then spot apply as if you're panel lining. I would not do this over large open faced areas, only spot applying to crevices.

It's at least something to test. I'm curious how the mica flakes would pool when the liquids surface tension is borked.

I do know from experience that for the Vallejo Shifters (metallic paint that shifts color depending on the angle of light hitting it), they pool in crevices kind of oddly because they're not a solid color. You get the color shifts on the surfaces, but if you put too much paint into the crevices it ends up looking whitish —or whatever the original appearance of the paint is when it's in the bottle — because there are too many metallic particles pooled in there with nothing in the background to provide a contrast. I made that mistake on the first mini I painted, but didn't repeat that mistake on any of the others.

WindwardAway
Aug 22, 2022

Set your life on fire. Seek those who fan your flames.

WindwardAway posted:

I do know from experience that for the Vallejo Shifters (metallic paint that shifts color depending on the angle of light hitting it), they pool in crevices kind of oddly because they're not a solid color. You get the color shifts on the surfaces, but if you put too much paint into the crevices it ends up looking whitish —or whatever the original appearance of the paint is when it's in the bottle — because there are too many metallic particles pooled in there with nothing in the background to provide a contrast. I made that mistake on the first mini I painted, but didn't repeat that mistake on any of the others.

This is when the paints aren't thinned, btw.

Casual Encountess
Dec 14, 2005

"You can see how they go from being so sweet to tearing your face off,
just like that,
and it's amazing to have that range."


Thunderdome Exclusive

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I have had really good luck with a bright metallic color as the first layer then going over it with a contrast paint, if you want non standard metallic colors. My necrons have orangeish and blueish metallic achieved with the bright bronze/brass spray can as a first layer.

im trying to figure out how to do metallic purple for a while now. ill give this a shot!

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Casual Encountess posted:

im trying to figure out how to do metallic purple for a while now. ill give this a shot!

Army painter makes an actual metallic purple, along with other metallic colors. I think they look neat in the proper application. I have the whole set.

Here is a chaos lord work in progress in which I used the pink and green metallics.

kzin602
May 14, 2007




Grimey Drawer

WindwardAway posted:

Yeah, that's kind of what I figured 😅 I just want some metallic paint to go into the grooves like how a shade would, but obviously not to the same effect.

If you are doing some kind of panel lining, try fine point metallic paint pens. Use a bright silver and then use washes or contrast to tint as needed.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Andy bringin' that rich cream goddamn

Don't worry everyone, it's just lahmian medium I swear.

Bohemian Nights posted:

He owns! I love the highlights and especially the plasma effects

Thanks, it's my first try with that particular plasma effect method.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

WindwardAway posted:

No, only in certain places, not all over the entire figure. I mean the sort of glow you see when someone with superpowers activates them (this is probably not the best description I could give). But I guess then it's best for me to just paint it manually; I'm just being a bit lazy and looking for a quicker way to achieve this effect.

Best to just paint this manually yeah.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Finally did these goblins, I think I'm just at a point with these where I'm not satisfied but at least they're painted and I can move on



And I like my cute little robutt

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Casual Encountess posted:

im trying to figure out how to do metallic purple for a while now. ill give this a shot!

You can also get vibrant acrylic ink and just mix it into a bright silver, and boom: any color you want metallics!

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

GreenBuckanneer posted:



And I like my cute little robutt

If any robot was deserving of a little happy face on the front....

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Lumpy posted:

You can also get vibrant acrylic ink and just mix it into a bright silver, and boom: any color you want metallics!

Or a coloured wash over bright silver. Not as intense but still any colour metallics

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

It wants uppies :3

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Oh my god I just realized that with the Leagues of Votann having AI robots as equal partners you can draw cute digital faces on their dome helmets!

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
hey guys quick question how do I remove paint from a plastic model/mini in a nice simple way? I botched an attempt to paint a model I bought a while ago but now that I'm getting a new paint set and looking at tutorials I want to take another shot at it. thanks.

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!

Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys quick question how do I remove paint from a plastic model/mini in a nice simple way? I botched an attempt to paint a model I bought a while ago but now that I'm getting a new paint set and looking at tutorials I want to take another shot at it. thanks.

Soak in Simple Green / Detol and scrub with a toothbrush. But if this is your first model, don't. You never strip your first

kzin602
May 14, 2007




Grimey Drawer

Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys quick question how do I remove paint from a plastic model/mini in a nice simple way? I botched an attempt to paint a model I bought a while ago but now that I'm getting a new paint set and looking at tutorials I want to take another shot at it. thanks.

You can pick up a cheap ultrasonic cleaner online for $20-30. I use tap water with just a capful of simple green or LA's awesome from the dollar store as a cleaning solution. After a 10 minute cycle the paint mostly sloughs off.

An ultrasonic cleaner has a bunch of uses, it surprisingly handy.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Bought some Rosemary brushes finally.

The internet suggested series 99 for here in the americas and a drybrush set so I picked one up.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.

Slyphic posted:

Soak in Simple Green / Detol and scrub with a toothbrush. But if this is your first model, don't. You never strip your first

Sadly I’m going to have to because despite it being my ‘first’ in a while it’s also an ‘only’, it’s a showpiece Nausicaa valley of the wind model that I stupidly went in blind for, it’s not even finished, now that I’m learning how to paint minis for real I owe it to myself to re-do it so i can display it proudly.

Also what’s simple green is that dish soap.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
oven cleaner

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Al-Saqr posted:

Sadly I’m going to have to because despite it being my ‘first’ in a while it’s also an ‘only’, it’s a showpiece Nausicaa valley of the wind model that I stupidly went in blind for, it’s not even finished, now that I’m learning how to paint minis for real I owe it to myself to re-do it so i can display it proudly.

Also what’s simple green is that dish soap.

This stuff. Most supermarkets and hardware stores carry it, I get mine at Meijer.

Icon Of Sin
Dec 26, 2008



It’s been a while, thread. I’m back with some Battletech/Alpha Strike minis, effectively a company of mechs that I’m hopefully taking to a event next month.

Icon Of Sin posted:

Nice! I finished up my merc company for an Alpha Strike event I may get to go to next month. Think I might call the company Canned Sunshine?

Command/support:



Lance 1:



Lance 2:



If I did it right, these are all mechs available to a merc company right on the cusp of the Clan invasion. None of this is required (aside from a basic attempt at painting), it just nets some extra judges’ points that’ll go into the final score. The one rule I’m butting up against is on mech chassis, you can bring 2 of a single chassis (both hunchbacks) but they have to be different variants (4G vs 5M in my case).

First lance is wayyy darker than the second one, it just isn’t showing up so well via pics. The Stalker’s middle-line might also be a little weird, but I promise it’s there. Half of it looks like the one lance (black/red trim), half looks like the other (silver/red trim). Gold cockpits and rockets on both sets.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

GreenBuckanneer posted:




And I like my cute little robutt

That is a great robot.

I painted some myself. One of my first endeavors in non-fantasy miniatures that aren't 40K orcs.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



What color scheme do you think? I'm thinking Dark Purple and silver, maybe yellow accents? but IDK that I'm good with anything freehand yet.

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

GreenBuckanneer posted:



What color scheme do you think? I'm thinking Dark Purple and silver, maybe yellow accents? but IDK that I'm good with anything freehand yet.

Accents and basic heraldic stuff are probably the best ways to get into freehand painting since they're mostly just stripes and geometric shapes. Paint a straight line and fill it in; if the line's not straight, go over the wobbly bit with your base color until it looks straight. If you go too far with that, go back with your accent color. Plus, you don't have to do a ton; even simple accents add a lot. Purple and silver with a yellow stripe here or there would probably look great.

I hadn't done any freehand work before I decided to tackle these guys, but I think they're still the best set of models I've done so far:

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Those look so good, I'm loving how clean they look.

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