|
memento mori posted:I really want to do this myself but I'm afraid I'm in over my head. The weather is nice this week so I got a little time to think about it. I appreciate the replies everyone, thanks. Here's how you learn to do it without risking your own car. - go on rockauto.com and look up the parts you might need (switch, motor), if on a mobile phone, select desktop mode from the menu. - click the blue part number to see what range of years and models used the part. - go to row52.com and search for those years and models within the distance you're willing to drive for this. - choose the junkyard that seems to have the most donor vehicles listed, go there with whatever tools you think you'll need and practice on someone else's junk car that's going to get turned into a metal cube in a few weeks anyways. If successful and it was bad enough to make you want to buy the part new to avoid having to do it twice, buy the part(s) you think it is (some diagnosis can help narrow this down) on rockauto and go home, wait for them to arrive and install them. Otherwise buy the parts you just pulled and cross your fingers they aren't bad too. Picknpull yards have a 30 day warranty so you could always install them in the parking lot and if they're broken, just try again on the next donor in the row. Oh, if you break a part during removal at the junkyard, move to the next donor and buy that part, that way you have a spare when you break it on your car.
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 19:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:45 |
|
|
Every Pick N Pull yard near me no longer allows people to go themselves into the yard to do it themselves - instead you call ahead and ask them for whatever part and they send some people out to get it for you (or not). I thought this was a legal thing and a people-stealing-poo poo thing, guess it's still the oldschool way in the states?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 20:05
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Hello AI. This is a "vaguely planning new vehicle" kind of question: You can fit a 4x8 sheet in just about any minivan. I haul lumber in my wife's 2013 Odyssey all the time.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 20:15
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:latest gen Explorer is 48.1 between the wheel wells. They stick out a bit but you can ratchet strap the gate down np poo poo, I knew the answer would be "something big"  Motronic posted:A full size van. There's a reason they are the choices of the trades. I'd ballpark the need at about once every 4-5 weeks or so. A lot less for my personal needs (maybe once every few months), but I'm part of a makerspace and there's a more frequent need to transport stuff for communal projects. You'd think we'd have plenty of pickups among the membership seeing how we're based in TX but you'd be surprisingly wrong! skipdogg posted:I'm pretty sure I could get a 4x4 sheet of plywood in almost any midsize CUV on the market if you can put it in at an angle and drop the 2nd row of seats. I tried doing that with my parents' Nissan Rogue but couldn't make it work: the hatch opening is rounded and the wheel wells intrude enough to make it a no-go. Maybe there are others in that CUV class that would allow it, I just haven't had any experience with them. Hoping others here might've. As for clarification... I really don't know how else to describe it. Fitting a 4'x4' sheet (let's say 4-5 of them, adding up to few inches in thickness) in any arrangement, with the second and/or third row seats down and the rear hatch/gate open or closed. Deteriorata posted:You can fit a 4x8 sheet in just about any minivan. I haul lumber in my wife's 2013 Odyssey all the time. I borrowed an Odyssey for that purpose and it worked really well. I just have zero need for a minivan in all other situations. An ideal vehicle would be a station wagon that has a wide enough back for this, but I don't think it exists.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 20:19
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Every Pick N Pull yard near me no longer allows people to go themselves into the yard to do it themselves - instead you call ahead and ask them for whatever part and they send some people out to get it for you (or not). I thought this was a legal thing and a people-stealing-poo poo thing, guess it's still the oldschool way in the states? Might differ by location, individual yards will have their own rules and there also may be state regulation / insurance rules involved. Here in Chicago IL both are available, though I don’t think you can call and ask them to pull a part they don’t normally disassemble.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 20:22
|
|
|
Trabant posted:An ideal vehicle would be a station wagon that has a wide enough back for this, but I don't think it exists. W121 is 44" between wheel wells, so I bet you could manage it at an angle. V90 about the same.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 20:24
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Just to be clear, your car has a timing chain and they generally aren't supposed to be replaced. Sometimes on a high-mileage engine you need to, but it's not common. It was pointed out earlier that specifically with Acuras, they can develop problems and need to be replaced more often. Yeah sorry it’s the chain. Engine is at 190k and we determined it’s never been fixed.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 20:58
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Every Pick N Pull yard near me no longer allows people to go themselves into the yard to do it themselves - instead you call ahead and ask them for whatever part and they send some people out to get it for you (or not). I thought this was a legal thing and a people-stealing-poo poo thing, guess it's still the oldschool way in the states? Depends on the yard here. I generally avoid the full service yards unless I've got no other choice because they are usually more expensive, more arrogant and dismissive of anything outside of the narrow amount of information they have ("my Hollander search says it'll fit, and I'm not interested in listening to anyone, even though it's definitely wrong and my customer has 15 years of experience with the actual manufacturer and OEM suppliers parts catalogs"), and far less interested in doing anything except selling overpriced parts to shops doing insurance work. Almost every yard on row52 is self service, it's one of my favorite tools. Some, but not all (or probably even a majority) of the yards on car-part.com are self service as well, but far too many of them are of the "grizzled, unimaginably filthy, actively customer hostile old man selling similarly worn and filthy parts out of huge barely labeled parts pile in a decaying shed" variety.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 21:00
|
|
|
Trabant posted:poo poo, I knew the answer would be "something big" Even at once a month, I'd vote LowesDepot truck rental if there is one anywhere nearby. You don't have to be buying anything at the store, they don't give a poo poo what you're doing with it as long as it doesn't have new damage. It ends up being like $40, and the rental process takes 5-10 minutes. We have rented it to take poo poo from our house to the dump.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 22:00
|
|
|
This is usually how people do things in Europe btw. For those two times a year we need to haul something , we rent a van or a trailer. Rest of the year we drive our little clown cars around. Bep bep.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 22:03
|
|
|
Blowjob Overtime posted:Even at once a month, I'd vote LowesDepot truck rental if there is one anywhere nearby. You don't have to be buying anything at the store, they don't give a poo poo what you're doing with it as long as it doesn't have new damage. It ends up being like $40, and the rental process takes 5-10 minutes. We have rented it to take poo poo from our house to the dump.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
Or go to Uhaul. For 19.95 you can rent one of those motherfuckers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 22:59
|
|
|
Yeah, rentals might be the best option after all. As much as I like this:KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:W121 is 44" between wheel wells, so I bet you could manage it at an angle. V90 about the same. the prices involved are just  (I mean, I know all cars are these days, but those even more so)
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 00:04
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 01:47
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Spacetoaster, "free" is only slightly less than what a running, driving L-series is worth at this point. Everything STR said about the Aurora is probably going to be worse for the L-series, because it shares even less than a typical GM platform-shared product and you're dealing with a car that was treated as disposable from new. Gonna disagree with much of what you're saying. Yeah, they were very much disposable cars, but they did get US-ized a bit. The 4 cylinder versions (like the L100 and L200) have your basic Ecotec 2.2 with a Getrag 5 speed manual or 4T40E automatic (I've never even seen an L100 before, TBH - I don't know if you could even get them with an automatic). But an L100 is a pretty drat barebones car - crank windows, manual climate control, basic radio (not even a tape or CD player), etc. At least they got AC standard. If I wanted something that would last with minimal fuss, I'd take a L100 with the 5 speed over an Aurora. The electronics in the L100 are essentially the radio, engine computer, and body control module (which will control lights + wipers + cluster). Slap in a new, latest revision timing chain tensioner (which can be done without removing the timing cover - IIRC you just need a 32mm socket and a screwdriver + hammer to release it), and it should run for 250k+ with very little fuss. Just don't ever let it run low on oil; it'll jump timing before it has a chance to start knocking. I'm not sure which V6 is used in the L300, but it's not very common. L100 and L200 should be pretty reliable, they just get run into the ground since, as you said, disposable. Raluek posted:i am totally ignorant about those specific cars, but did saturn share interior bits with other GMs of that era? maybe someone else here knows. "Classic" Saturns were their own animal, but this isn't a classic Saturn. It's like a bastardized downmarket Saab 9-3 with a late model Cavalier drivetrain (Ecotec 2.2 w/Getrag 5 speed - pretty solid combo TBH, had that exact combo in 2 cars). You're not going to get anywhere fast with that engine, but it'll get you there. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Oct 18, 2022 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 02:04
|
|
|
Some rear end in a top hat is driving around my neighborhood down almost every night from as early as 8PM to as late as 5AM to either two-step ignition or some asinine poo poo like MSD Grid Step ignition serenading us with anywhere from 5 to 10 backfires (and occasional bursts of up to 10+) per launch pops that sound sharper and quieter like fireworks* (but far but much less percussive, and louder than automatic gunfire (I'm heard semi and auto gunfire at the range). It's also much regular and than fireworks launched to celebrate Y Day, which involves cranking the gently caress out of assorted Latin music and launching fireworks on days that end in "y"in American English. Oh, right, actual question, how fast can I expect these idiots running multi-step ignition to irreversibly damage their cars?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 02:46
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Some rear end in a top hat is driving around my neighborhood down almost every night from as early as 8PM to as late as 5AM to either two-step ignition or some asinine poo poo like MSD Grid Step ignition serenading us with anywhere from 5 to 10 backfires (and occasional bursts of up to 10+) per launch pops that sound sharper and quieter like fireworks* (but far but much less percussive, and louder than automatic gunfire (I'm heard semi and auto gunfire at the range). It's also much regular and than fireworks launched to celebrate Y Day, which involves cranking the gently caress out of assorted Latin music and launching fireworks on days that end in "y"in American English. It'll burn their cats out but they probably are running a cat delete so never. Next thing would just be the normal poo poo that breaks when you launch a lovely car - axles, CVs, transmissions, clutches.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 02:57
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Some rear end in a top hat is driving around my neighborhood down almost every night from as early as 8PM to as late as 5AM to either two-step ignition or some asinine poo poo like MSD Grid Step ignition serenading us with anywhere from 5 to 10 backfires (and occasional bursts of up to 10+) per launch pops that sound sharper and quieter like fireworks* (but far but much less percussive, and louder than automatic gunfire (I'm heard semi and auto gunfire at the range). It's also much regular and than fireworks launched to celebrate Y Day, which involves cranking the gently caress out of assorted Latin music and launching fireworks on days that end in "y"in American English. It largely depends on what you put in the road for them to run over.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 03:00
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Some rear end in a top hat is driving around my neighborhood down almost every night from as early as 8PM to as late as 5AM to either two-step ignition or some asinine poo poo like MSD Grid Step ignition serenading us with anywhere from 5 to 10 backfires (and occasional bursts of up to 10+) per launch pops that sound sharper and quieter like fireworks* (but far but much less percussive, and louder than automatic gunfire (I'm heard semi and auto gunfire at the range). It's also much regular and than fireworks launched to celebrate Y Day, which involves cranking the gently caress out of assorted Latin music and launching fireworks on days that end in "y"in American English. I hear these fucks day and night, loving assssssholes. I’m not one to gently caress with someone’s car but these pricks gently caress with my sleep real bad and I’m sick and loving tired of it and I’d love to <redacted>, or <redacted> if I could ever figure out <redacted> and/or <definitely redacted>. They’re at the top of the list of things that ruin cars and car culture for me. loving hate these pricks, I hope every single one of them has a terrible loveless unhappy uncomfortable lovely life. Edit:// whoops not the chat thread, but I still needed to get that out. How can we stop this poo poo? It’s more anti-social than Harley exhausts. RIP Paul Walker fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Oct 18, 2022 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 05:22
|
|
|
If a car came both with manual and digital/automatic AC, the difference is more than just the controls themselves, right? I've just seen a classified for a center console with a digital panel (it's a 2001 Chrysler Voyager), and it got me thinking. I assume there are some more temperature sensors or other stuff, maybe? The vents and valves are using actuators already.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 09:05
|
|
|
Jim DiGriz posted:If a car came both with manual and digital/automatic AC, the difference is more than just the controls themselves, right? I've just seen a classified for a center console with a digital panel (it's a 2001 Chrysler Voyager), and it got me thinking. OEMs try to make this stuff super simple so most times the temp sensor is somewhere in the center console, especially if it’s a 20 year old car. Is it multi-zone?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 12:34
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:OEMs try to make this stuff super simple so most times the temp sensor is somewhere in the center console, especially if it’s a 20 year old car. Is it multi-zone? It's a dual zone AC. Gonna look up the service manual, maybe there's something in there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 12:51
|
|
|
And one more stupid question. Got a check engine light, and an error code about slow response of the first O2 sensor. Google results say that first things first I should clear the code and see if it comes back. Question is, are those simple ELM327 OBD readers safe to clear the code? Shops always seem to suggest they are not, is it safer to find one to do it? My next oil change is in around a thousand kilometres, it would be good to see until then if it was only a one-time thing or if I should have it replaced as well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 18:14
|
|
|
Jim DiGriz posted:Question is, are those simple ELM327 OBD readers safe to clear the code? Shops always seem to suggest they are not What shop? Where? I have literally never hard of this. It's a non issue.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 18:25
|
|
|
Jim DiGriz posted:Question is, are those simple ELM327 OBD readers safe to clear the code? Shops always seem to suggest they are not most shops are full of stupid, arrogant people who are trying to work as fast as possible while ripping you off, and once you get a little bit of mechanical skill, you realize that you're better off doing as much work as possible yourself. there is nothing at all wrong with using a 10 dollar bluetooth OBD tool on your car. worst thing that can happen is you keep clearing a code that you really should be paying attention to and your engine eventually blows up, which could happen with any reader.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 18:39
|
|
|
Motronic posted:What shop? Where? A few articles here and there on a site I read were from used car dealers and guys who help prospective buyers check the cars, and more then once have they mentioned that they won't let any of these 10-bucks-on-eBay readers near the cars. I always assumed they were at best overly cautious (and at worst actively against people taking matters into their own hands), so it's good to hear this.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 18:43
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:most shops are full of stupid, arrogant people who are trying to work as fast as possible while ripping you off, and once you get a little bit of mechanical skill, you realize that you're better off doing as much work as possible yourself. Cool, thanks for the confirmation.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 18:45
|
|
|
Jim DiGriz posted:A few articles here and there on a site I read were from used car dealers and guys who help prospective buyers check the cars, and more then once have they mentioned that they won't let any of these 10-bucks-on-eBay readers near the cars. I always assumed they were at best overly cautious (and at worst actively against people taking matters into their own hands), so it's good to hear this. lovely dealers won't let you near one of the cars with a reader because most of them fail I/M readiness but if you clear the codes you won't see the MIL ("check engine light") until it fails one or more of them again on a drive cycle. Good dealers don't want you indiscriminately erasing codes, which resets the I/M monitors. Now they show as unset until a drive cycles has been done and a future shopper might think they are trying to get one over on them. None of this has anything to do with the quality of the tool, but the kind of person who brings a home gamer tool like that to a car lot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 18:46
|
|
|
I have a few of the Uber-cheap OBD2 scanners and they rule. Also, never had an issue with any seller, even sketchy ones, letting me plug them in. They’ve tried to argue with my interpretation of the results but that’s it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 19:50
|
|
|
Motronic posted:lovely dealers won't let you near one of the cars with a reader because most of them fail I/M readiness but if you clear the codes you won't see the MIL ("check engine light") until it fails one or more of them again on a drive cycle. Yeah, that makes sense.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 20:08
|
|
|
If you are going to clear codes, write them down first, it may help you find the problem faster if it pops back up again right after but missing a few codes that turn out to be relevant. There are exceptions but the general rule is always attack the lowest number codes first, they can have follow on effects that will trigger higher numbered codes. I'll usually take an overall look at the code list, write all the numbers down, make a guess as to what I think is going on that could trigger the lowest few codes and why I think they might cause a higher numbered code, use my eyes/ears/nose/live data and maybe multimeter and oscilloscope to verify, repair anything I find wrong, clear codes and drive test it. See what else pops up and how it drives, then back to square one and start debugging again, now knowing what I fixed and which codes it eliminated, which will help you narrow down what's causing the rest of the codes. It usually only takes 1-2 cycles of this to find everything. An example: one time I had a jeep throwing a P012x family TPS circuit code (I can't remember which at this point, or if it was high, low, or what, but it was definitely a TPS circuit code), a P017x family error of the "system too lean/rich" variety (can't remember which), and a P0154 O2 sensor code. I attacked the TPS code first and immediately found that the sensor was totally dead, always reading the same thing, which was putting the ECUs guess at how much fuel it needed so far off that no amount of fuel trim would get it to stoich, thus the P017x code and the O2 sensor not ever switching leading to the P0154. The O2 sensor was fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 01:54
|
|
|
kastein posted:If you are going to clear codes, write them down first, it may help you find the problem faster if it pops back up again right after but missing a few codes that turn out to be relevant. There are exceptions but the general rule is always attack the lowest number codes first, they can have follow on effects that will trigger higher numbered codes. I'll usually take an overall look at the code list, write all the numbers down, make a guess as to what I think is going on that could trigger the lowest few codes and why I think they might cause a higher numbered code, use my eyes/ears/nose/live data and maybe multimeter and oscilloscope to verify, repair anything I find wrong, clear codes and drive test it. See what else pops up and how it drives, then back to square one and start debugging again, now knowing what I fixed and which codes it eliminated, which will help you narrow down what's causing the rest of the codes. It usually only takes 1-2 cycles of this to find everything. That's good info, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 06:12
|
|
|
kastein posted:(sensor hell) I can and have followed this most excellent advice; but as a child of the '60s-'70s, this is why I have cars like this:  The way sensor/ECU issues can mimic old-style spark/fuel problems sometimes drives me batty.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 13:52
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:I can and have followed this most excellent advice; but as a child of the '60s-'70s, this is why I have cars like this: One you get used to monitoring/graphing PIDs OBD2 is freaking amazing. I can't remember the last time I needed to actually hook a scope up to something and I sure as hell haven't had to pull out my grandfather's dwell/tach meter and timing light. But yeah, can't beat the simplicity of the old stuff.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 15:05
|
|
|
Is it a pretty straight forward job to replace a busted out side mirror on a 2014 Honda Civic? I've found a site online that will sell me the painted mirror, and found some tutorial videos on Youtube, but it looks almost too deceptively easy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 15:11
|
|
|
If it’s - pull inside cover -remove three bolts - unplug - Remove mirror - installation is the reverse of removal Then yes. My sister was quoted $750 to replace the passenger-side mirror on her Rendezvous in 2011. Did it in ten minutes in a parking lot, mirror unit was $130.00
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 17:20
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:I can and have followed this most excellent advice; but as a child of the '60s-'70s, this is why I have cars like this: A $13 OBD2 dongle is one of the cheapest tools in my garage while also being one of the most useful. It's certainly not a perfect system, but the main weakness is just that the OEMs are allowed to keep so many secrets about the data available. I love working on late '90s and early '00s era cars where they had most of the sensors but still hadn't put enough computing power in for real security so unofficial tools are available that can get basically everything out of the ECU.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 20:10
|
|
|
Yeah, I agree for sure. They're really locking stuff down now. Another thing I forgot to mention that is a huge blind spot is that a code for a part does not mean replace that part. Far too many people will just replace the part, and maybe the ECU if the part doesn't fix it, without considering the harness in between. All the code means is the microprocessor is seeing a thing that's related to that whole circuit, so testing the harness is definitely important. It can be annoying, especially with intermittents, but you'll save a lot of money if you go in open minded about whether it's the sensor, ECU, or harness wires in between. One broken wire can very easily result in anywhere from 1 to a dozen plus codes if you get unlucky, for example a bad sensor voltage supply wire can give you codes for the TPS, CPS, CPK, IAT, MAT, MAP, and others all at once. Or worse, sometimes just one of those sensors failing will take the whole thing down because it shorts internally and the ECU designers used their internal logic supply rail to feed the sensors too. That's why a bad crank sensor can result in a "no bus" error on the odometer on late model XJs and why your scan tool won't even connect to the ECU when it happens. So many people will replace a good ECU in that case.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 21:59
|
|
|
I work in the auto industry as a direct sensor supplier to OEMs. Let me tell you, I would not wish any customer to be able to see a lot of the data that's available to calibrators, not least of which because I know for a fact that people will not at all comprehend what they mean or be able to make use of the data. Also, without knowing how the OBD flags are calibrated, it can be difficult to understand how certain flags apply to a component in the system. I mean, a lot of people have fundamental misunderstandings about some of the simplest parts (e.g. spark plug) and it's really counterproductive to give them a bunch of information they have no business fiddling with. Cars these days are really, really complicated. The amount of data that we can pull even from our single sensor (i.e. all the data streams available to calibrators) is immense and even we have to go through them all to filter for the few that we are interested in.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 22:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:45 |
|
|
STR posted:Gonna disagree with much of what you're saying. I don't think you're saying anything all that different from me here - because you're right, the car itself will keep on going for as long as you feel like feeding it basic maintenance. But you're not going to find something like a pristine, or possibly even "more serviceable than what you have now" driver's seat in a junkyard because those cars got used hard and thrown away fast, a long time ago, and there's not even much in the way of a bunch of Saturn-purist perverts trying to keep them going. kastein posted:So many people will replace a good ECU in that case. Yup. For some reason the default mentality among those who don't want to actually troubleshoot their error codes is "replace the part", and when that fails, "replace the ECU". Where this gets especially frustrating is when you come across the rare model (like late TJs) where the ECU does have a failure rate orders of magnitude above every other car... and people still fall into that loop because they don't want to do the work. I will say that on a fully modernized CAN equipped car, it is possible to get down to "X code means replace Y part". One of the exhaust sensors failed on my Canyon. If it had been a sensor wired directly to the ECU, I would've had to validate wiring across nearly the whole length of the truck to rule everything else out. But instead it's a sensor on a short lead, glued to its own specific controller, which then connects to CAN. If it was a fault with the wiring between the sensor controller and the ECU, I would have expected some form of communications code. Sensor out of range, well, that means the problem could be in the sensor itself, or the wiring between the sensor and its controller, or the controller... but that's all a single part and you can't (easily) get any of the components separately. The only real downside is that it means the replacement part is more expensive than it "needs" to be, but $150 doesn't feel too bad for a part that took all of fifteen minutes to diagnose and replace.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2022 23:45
|
|
