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Applebees Appetizer posted:Just get one of those little hand pumps with the vinyl hose from harbor freight, I have one for my cars to get fuel out for the generator in case a hurricane hits us knocking out the power for weeks. Almost happened this time around and we dodged another bullet again. Haven't had to get gas out of the cars yet knock on wood. Doesn't anything remotely modern have an anti-siphon valve in the filler neck making this impossible?
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 18:30 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:01 |
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The newest vehicle in our fleet at this point is a 1994 and the newest gas vehicle is a 1993. My newest in my half of the fleet is a 1988. Nothing we own is really, uhhh, modern. Far as I know there's just the little flapper at the fill neck, but I've had the whole tank system apart before and I don't think there are any anti siphon devices on these trucks.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 18:37 |
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A safety siphon is the pro move. gently caress accidentally gargling gas. Best way to use a gas can, too. There isn't a no-spill spout that isn't a complete piece of poo poo.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 18:52 |
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ThinkFear posted:A safety siphon is the pro move. gently caress accidentally gargling gas. Best way to use a gas can, too. There isn't a no-spill spout that isn't a complete piece of poo poo. Fortunately, the free market provides, and you can buy regular nozzles for your "safety" gas cans. https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Nozzle-Kit-Yellow-Collar-Thread-Fits/dp/B08RDZWDK8/ (first one that came up - there are a bunch more in the related items for that one.) Or just buy a race gas jug in the first place, which has a decent size clear tube nozzle. https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972/ Nozzle is sold separate on this one, about $10. There's even little doohickeys to give the hose a nice bend and keep it there. Comes in various colors, too, if you don't like red.
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 20:33 |
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opengl posted:Doesn't anything remotely modern have an anti-siphon valve in the filler neck making this impossible? You wouldn't be siphoning it out tho, you're pumping it out with the hand pump. If it happens to siphon after the first few pumps then that's a bonus I guess
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# ? Oct 20, 2022 20:36 |
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ThinkFear posted:A safety siphon is the pro move. gently caress accidentally gargling gas. Best way to use a gas can, too. There isn't a no-spill spout that isn't a complete piece of poo poo. Disagree, I have the 1.5 gallon version of this and it's awesome, seals so tight it'll crush the can under vacuum if you half empty it on a hot day, easy to use too. Those racing gas cans are pretty awesome too, I have a few for my diet bikes, all the spout components are just NPS so you can get replacements at Lowes, first thing I do for mine is get a barb x 1/2" NPS fitting and a cap.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 02:27 |
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Well my downpipe arrived so I bolted it on in the home depot parking lot after buying some more stainless bolts for it there. This truck is quieter with no downpipe to catback gasket but a new downpipe and header donut gasket than it has been in... Probably a year. I hadn't realized the donut gasket and downpipe were both slowly crumbling.Elviscat posted:Disagree, I have the 1.5 gallon version of this and it's awesome, seals so tight it'll crush the can under vacuum if you half empty it on a hot day, easy to use too. I have nospill brand cans for every vehicle at this point because they kick rear end. Not only do they limit vapor and liquid loss to essentially nothing, my gas lasts longer in them because of it.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 02:34 |
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The NoSpill cans are awesome. They make a clear extension they works great on small engines. Anyone using a vented can is wasting fuel and making air quality worse.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 03:55 |
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Oh man I wish I knew about these no spill cans before I bought 5 gallon cans for my generator from home depot, they suck rear end. No-Spill Jill sold me on the amazon promo video Darchangel posted:Fortunately, the free market provides, and you can buy regular nozzles for your "safety" gas cans. Gonna have to get me some of these, sweet Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Oct 21, 2022 |
# ? Oct 21, 2022 12:32 |
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The pushbutton ones aren't that bad outside of the 90° spout being annoying for some stuff. Good as saw cans though. My hatred is more directed at the twist lock, shove it against the edge of the fill neck type. The vp racing ones are good, but I'm too cheap to throw out a bunch of gas cans. Their I'm not touching you poo poo with the EPA is always funny. Yes, sir, these red cans are definitely for water or pesticides, not gasoline, I swear. Sharky, I don't get the air quality / wasting fuel thing. Close the vent for storage, problem solved? Meanwhile everything that I'm filling with said gas can has a vented tank. Sorry for the gas can derail, kastein.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 13:40 |
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kastein posted:Oh yeah, I was thinking of the little rubber squeeze bulb style ones. fwiw i tried to use this for differential oil and it was a loving shitshow
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 16:44 |
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kastein posted:Well my downpipe arrived so I bolted it on in the home depot parking lot after buying some more stainless bolts for it there. This truck is quieter with no downpipe to catback gasket but a new downpipe and header donut gasket than it has been in... Probably a year. I hadn't realized the donut gasket and downpipe were both slowly crumbling. I have a 5-gallon can (looks exactly like the one in the link) with the pull out style nozzle, so it seal fine with the cap and the vent closed. My shed never smells like gas, and the mower has never had any problem running on the gas after 3-4 months of Texas "winter". Or summer so hot and dry the grass doesn't grow, for that matter. Before I bought the electric mower, anyway. Now it's gas for the gennie, and otherwise emergency supply. Still, nice to learn of a no-spill that actually works if I need to buy a new can.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 17:24 |
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I don't particularly mind tbh, I've been telling everyone who will listen (and a fair number who won't) about nospill cans for years now BraveUlysses posted:fwiw i tried to use this for differential oil and it was a loving shitshow The little squeeze bulb ones and the plunger ones pretty much suck for gear oil, so do the "I'm a laundry detergent pump with delusions of grandeur" ones. I ended up buying an actual drum pump for gear oil once I started changing it frequently enough to be annoyed. I hear they've finally invented Capri-sun gear lube bottles though.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 20:07 |
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Yeah I never liked pumping gear oil into a diff/trans while laying under a car on jack stands, what a pain in the rear end. The tall bottle with the pump on top doesn't leave much clearance for actually pumping it and it seems to take forever. I always wondered why the gear oil bottles have the little squirt thingy on the end of them like you're going to actually just squirt the oil in there, what fuckin vehicle would that actually work on cuz i don't know of any lol
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 21:26 |
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ThinkFear posted:Sharky, I don't get the air quality / wasting fuel thing. Close the vent for storage, problem solved? Meanwhile everything that I'm filling with said gas can has a vented tank. I see people spill gas out of vented cans all the time. Not from the vent but from not being able to stop the flow in time. The no spill button ones let you hold the can in the necessary position and dribble fuel in if you want.
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# ? Oct 21, 2022 22:43 |
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kastein posted:I don't particularly mind tbh, I've been telling everyone who will listen (and a fair number who won't) about nospill cans for years now yes, i saw that valvoline is doing this now https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Flex-Fill-SAE-75W-140-Full-Synthetic-Gear-Oil-1-QT-Squeeze-Pouch/332258803?athbdg=L1600 hope it's not patented it so that other brands will switch
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# ? Oct 22, 2022 03:43 |
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Yeah I'm honestly looking forward to trying that. I haven't had to buy gear oil since before I saw it for the first time, still working through my stockpile of random rear end bottles leftover from other projects. Like Applebee's Appetizers I've never had a car where the squeeze bottle fit nicely either. I've always ended up either frustrated or covered in oil or both, unless it's a vehicle where I can just pop the shifter out of the top of the transmission and upend the bottle into the shift tower. That's what I do normally but it doesn't help with diffs of course. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Oct 22, 2022 |
# ? Oct 22, 2022 03:58 |
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Apparently the Milwaukee M18 transfer pump can punch gear oils around quite nicely if it’s not negative degrees outside
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# ? Oct 22, 2022 09:58 |
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BraveUlysses posted:yes, i saw that valvoline is doing this now That's the kinda thing where i'd buy one and refill with a funnel. ....and take a shower in no less than a coffee cup's worth of gear oil.
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# ? Oct 22, 2022 17:19 |
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The only time Nospill cans suck is if your task is "empty the whole can into something" because that is a long time pressing a very stiff button with your thumb. They are perfect for filling up most equipment with <1gal tanks.BraveUlysses posted:yes, i saw that valvoline is doing this now I don't think it is, I'm pretty sure the first bagged gear oil I saw was Amsoil.
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# ? Oct 23, 2022 01:36 |
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Project Farm had the NoSpill can leak but I’m fairly certain he didn’t get the lid on exactly right - I’ve seen the same leak and a lid adjustment fixed it. Once I had that happen and got it figured out I’ve never had another leak - I’ll even carry a 1 gallon jug of diesel inside the FJ62 and it never smells. Those gear lube pouches look amazing. Somebody do it with GL-4!
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# ? Oct 23, 2022 06:21 |
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I've just got a 5L garden pump up weed sprayer that I've taken the wand off so its just a hose (I actually extended the hose to about 3M so the tank can sit out from under the car) and added a tyre stem to the side of it. I ended up pulling the factory overpressure release vent out cos it went off too early pumping 90w140 gear oil and replaced it with a steel plug that blows out at about 35psi. Put in the amount the diff/gearbox/transfer holds + 500-1000ml, stick hose in hole, pump up to 20psi with tyre inflator and go off and do something else while it fills. just come back every now and then and refill the air. As soon as it overflows you just unscrew the lid to release the pressure and oil flow stops. Basically just repurposed something like this! https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-2-Gal-Pump-Sprayer-1502HDXA/307766539
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# ? Oct 23, 2022 14:11 |
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The gear oil pouch is brilliant. All it needs is one of those rollers like you put on a toothpaste tube and roll that poo poo right out
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# ? Oct 23, 2022 15:27 |
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Applebees Appetizer posted:The gear oil pouch is brilliant. All it needs is one of those rollers like you put on a toothpaste tube and roll that poo poo right out Gear Oil Gogurt
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# ? Oct 23, 2022 16:21 |
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Yeah I never liked pumping gear oil into a diff/trans while laying under a car on jack stands, what a pain in the rear end. The tall bottle with the pump on top doesn't leave much clearance for actually pumping it and it seems to take forever. I always wondered why the gear oil bottles have the little squirt thingy on the end of them like you're going to actually just squirt the oil in there, what fuckin vehicle would that actually work on cuz i don't know of any lol A "wash bottle" would probably work, *if* the tubing were sized up a bit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6KZZQL/ They have a siphon tube all the way to the bottom, like a pump would, but you just squeeze the bottle. I bought that set after I saw several YouTubers using them to squirt gas in the carb or whatever. A lost safer to use than trying to dump stuff out, particularly gasoline. Obviously intended for washes in chemistry processes, but works for anything that doesn't eat the plastics. Gear lube would be a bit thick for the existing tube on those, though - it's only like 1/8" ID, maybe. BraveUlysses posted:yes, i saw that valvoline is doing this now Well, hey, that's a decent idea. Probably not patented, at least not by Valvoline - that container tech has been around for a while in hair color, among other things. kastein posted:Yeah I'm honestly looking forward to trying that. I haven't had to buy gear oil since before I saw it for the first time, still working through my stockpile of random rear end bottles leftover from other projects. I've been know to put a clear hose on the bottles to relocate them somewhere usable. Which reminds me I need to get a new hose for the pump bottle I do have. It's so old that it's basically non-flexible. I've had the pump and the jug that goes with it (looks like a miniature coolant just - gear oil used to come in them before the squeeze bottles) for, uh, 25-30 years?
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# ? Oct 24, 2022 20:53 |
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kastein posted:Gear Oil Gogurt LOL
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# ? Oct 24, 2022 20:53 |
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Sup fuckers I'm in Washington again now (not permanently... Again... Ffs) as national grid was dragging their feet on my service upgrade on the house anyways and Britt's wagon and the RV both went from "requesting service" to "demanding service". With The Endless Rain fast approaching it was high time I got out here to fix everything before I had to do it while soaking wet. First project: the hatred of this loving LO5 knows no bounds. kastein posted:I also got a spare intake manifold for Britt's Roadmaster off a locked up TBI 305 in an 89 firechicken. Figured that was the least wasteful engine to strip out of the 3 donors available. Turns out F body and B body don't use the same intake because B body has it crammed back into the firewall and you have to be an automotive proctologist to get like six of the bolts at the back out along with the distributor. So my spare intake was a total waste of time and money. Oh, the way to prevent most of the coolant from pouring out is to use a shopvac through the thermostat housing hole to suck any in the intake out after draining the cooling system. A little will still come out and go in the valley so be prepared to suck it up too, and change the oil after, but nowhere near as much as came out when I pulled the intake in the junkyard. Also: kastein posted:I was terrified that some of the bolts would break off but I went full "idiot with a breaker bar" mode on the donor car just to see how stupid I could be without loving it up, and none of them broke, so that's encouraging. Turns out this fear was well reasoned because guess what? The thermostat housing bolt broke off. It was like the fourth bolt I touched and it broke right off. Very very stuck too. This took place right before I found out the spare intake I'd prepared for exactly this reason was not useful in any way. Anyways this is how I feel about SBC intake manifold gaskets And this is how I feel about them once they're not in the car anymore (they end up with the consistency of rotten cream cheese around the front and rear water ports into the heads, but like granite around the EGR crossover ports, it's fuckin great chiseling this bullshit off the heads without dropping it into the valley or down the ports) But I persevered and finally chiseled all the trash off the heads and removed my operation theater gowning from the cadaver without dropping a bunch of junk in the sump, so hopefully it won't spin a bearing right off. See that busted off bolt in the thermostat housing hole closer to the camera? Great. I have to get that out. My welder is 3000 miles away. So I tried hammering on it and vise grips, hammering on it and propane torch and vise grips, and then gave up and drove an hour to my internet car friend Mike's place in Maple Valley and he had it out in 5 minutes by dumping a ton of heat into it with his TIG welder after welding a half inch nut to it. Awesome. Then I dressed the whole engine back up. I have some very unkind thoughts for whoever decided to make the distributor hold down bolt on this thing drat near inaccessible. The distributor is so short you can't get a socket on it let alone a socket and ujoint, it's so crammed into the prostate gland of the engine that you can't get a box wrench on it. I ended up having to reach around the back of the ignition coil and throttle cable bracket with a stubby gearwrench to tighten it down, and I'm hosed if I have to adjust it. Oh, the Honcho had been parked so long in the shade that my solar panel had not managed to keep my $45 junkyard battery with a date code from 2017 alive. So I had to slap a Walmart battery in that. It got a group 24 deep cycle with marine terminal posts this time, which I actually prefer over the regular post style. With that it was on to the RV, which I'll cover in another thread because I haven't bumped that thread in a million years anyways.
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# ? Nov 21, 2022 06:11 |
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between you and i it's a race to the bottom for poo poo old obsolete domestic v8s and leaky rear end rvs It's only GM as gently caress that each platform got its specific manifolds. goddamn what a poo poo loving job. The LiMs suck no matter what they're in and they all will need it.
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# ? Nov 21, 2022 06:58 |
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They're such a bad design. It angers me so much that they use the same gasket to keep the oil in the valley, the EGR in the EGR crossover, the coolant in the coolant crossover, and the intake connected to the heads. I think I've got more time into this one drat repair than my friend Dumar has into the LS+4L80e swap he did on a B body TODAY. Like, he dragged the car into his shop at 7am with a cranking but not running LT1 and drove it out under its own power LS swapped at 730pm. And here I am wasting my drat time on this bullshit LO5 because I'm not in a position to start a swap at the moment. The manifold difference was just the icing on the poo poo sundae. At least it was an excuse to go hang with an internet friend I had never actually met. Also, here's the RV saga if you haven't seen it yet (last post) https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3942473&pagenumber=7&perpage=40
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# ? Nov 21, 2022 07:29 |
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Just looking at those pics then imagining being hunched over loving with a manifold all day makes my back hurt lol
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# ? Nov 21, 2022 15:38 |
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It's kind of annoying but honestly not bad other than the firewall. If I kneel on the front bumper my elbows or forearms line up perfectly with the top of the AC compressor and alternator at least. It made my elbows and soul hurt more than my back except for the nonsense with the distributor at the back.
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# ? Nov 21, 2022 17:46 |
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I have minor scoliosis tho, so I'd be screwed almost as soon as I started lol. Had to give up working on cars as a hobby because of it. If I had a tall garage with a good lift I'd be able to do it way more often and for fun, but hunching over an engine bay or contorting my body under the dash and poo poo just ruins me now days
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# ? Nov 22, 2022 05:09 |
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Today I: - put all new bulbs in the Honcho's instrument cluster so I can willfully ignore speed limits at night instead of ignorantly ignoring them - replaced the headlamp switch so they would actually work (rare double point failure - 3 of 4 backlight bulbs were burned out and so was the dimmer portion of the switch) - found and fixed the corroded fuse causing the cig lighter to not charge my phone - was accosted by wasp #7 inside the cab upon returning home, really need to figure out how the gently caress they're getting in the truck and fix it because one of these days I'm gonna get stung - started installing a Fosi Audio ZK-1002 Bluetooth stereo amp in it, having been very pleased with the one I put in the Comanche - lubed the door latches so you don't have to slam the gently caress out of them anymore Also a while ago I gave up on borrowing an OBD1 scanner to finish the Buick repairs, so I researched how GM high speed (compared to the low speed one anyways, which is 160 baud) ALDL works. It turns out it's 5V TTL level bidirectional single ended serial, 8 bit, no parity, 1 stop bit, at 8192 baud. And that tunerpro RT will allegedly monitor it. So I bought a bunch of makerspace electronics crap off Amazon along with an FTDI FT232R module and I'm 99% sure I can get this working. All that crap arrives tomorrow evening so hopefully I'll be able to figure out why it's cranky shortly.
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# ? Nov 26, 2022 06:40 |
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Guess what fuckers, Buick runs great again. Better than it has in years in fact. I put it together with, as far as I can tell, an extra distributor gear tooth worth of timing, plus whatever wear 300k miles resulted in. I had to buy a timing light (wtf, for a 93!) And move the distributor a full 2 teeth over to get enough clearance between the bump on it and the coil to adjust it back to 0°BTDC base timing with the ignition timing bypass connector unplugged, which is the factory recommendation for GM TBI. That was stupid all around but at least it moves again. Guess I'll change the oil next time it isn't raining to get any coolant and debris I dropped back out.
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# ? Nov 29, 2022 04:01 |
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for good reason too. TBI is so loving picky about timing. 1 deg off and it starts running like balls in a southern summer just after a rain.
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# ? Nov 29, 2022 04:03 |
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kastein posted:I had to buy a timing light (wtf, for a 93!) Honda still used distributors on all of their 4 cylinders until the B, F, and H series engines were killed off (~2002). The Civic's D series got coil on plug from 2001-05. Nissan still used them on the KA until at least 2001. They only had limited adjustability, and the Honda ones were keyed, but they had em. Nissan's FWD KA distributor was also keyed; the RWD one was gear driven.
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# ? Nov 30, 2022 18:52 |
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VG33s in Xterras I'm p sure had dizzies till 2004 where then they went with the VQ.
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# ? Nov 30, 2022 19:12 |
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Having a distributor isn't the root cause, it's the lack of any ability to correlate the ignition timing against the rest of the engine. 4.0 Jeeps had distributors through 1999, as did the L31 Vortec for its entire run, but both of those were also equipped with crankshaft position sensors. So with a distributor a tooth (or more) off, they should throw a cam/crank correlation error immediately.
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# ? Nov 30, 2022 19:46 |
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The G6 2.6 DOHC in my wife’s 1993 Mazda B2600i has the CPS built into the distributor. I had to replace the dizzy and retime from scratch when the sensor died. The 3FE in the FJ62 doesn’t have a CPS at all. IIRC it times the batch fire off when it senses the #1 cylinder spark. The computer controls the distributor advance/retard based off RPM alone; there’s also no knock sensor.
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# ? Nov 30, 2022 20:51 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:01 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Having a distributor isn't the root cause, it's the lack of any ability to correlate the ignition timing against the rest of the engine. 4.0 Jeeps had distributors through 1999, as did the L31 Vortec for its entire run, but both of those were also equipped with crankshaft position sensors. So with a distributor a tooth (or more) off, they should throw a cam/crank correlation error immediately. Yeah pretty much this. A 4.0 either won't run at all or will throw a cam crank synchronization code if you get it in there wrong. Between that and the fact that the oil pump drive tang went right into the oil pump in that position and wouldn't in the next tooth over (when it eventually worked out perfect once I put it two full teeth over and then adjusted it a little back towards the first tooth over) I dunno wtf happened. I had to actually turn the crank quite a bit, like 20 or 30 degrees, to get the correct tooth of the distributor and the oil pump drive tang to both line up at once. I'm guessing there's a fair bit of cam and distributor gear tooth wear, more than a little timing chain slop, etc involved as it now runs better than it has in at least 6 years. I can't remember if it started the bogging stalling issue the fall she moved in with me or the next summer. But it's running great now. Oh, it's got more than a healthy amount of distributor shaft end play as well. My theory is that the stalling when hot and you suddenly go to idle after running it down the road for a while thing was that the ECU would learn to compensate for the extra ignition advance from the distributor shaft riding up the gear, and then as soon as you suddenly drop from 1500+ RPM to 650 while it's hot it would continue with the same amount of advance despite the distributor shaft dropping down and giving it a few extra degrees suddenly, leading to it bogging, then trying to catch it, overshooting a little, kicking the shaft up and advance back down, running well, dropping back down and adding more timing from the shaft end play again, etc etc until it would just stall. It hasn't done it since then but we've only put about 20 miles on it. Time will tell.
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# ? Nov 30, 2022 21:51 |