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Another question: how difficult is it to replace a campy freehub body with a shimano compatible one? I'm either going to have to find a new (used) wheel for my new groupset or do that and am trying to weigh my options.
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Oct 19, 2022 01:38
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 15:38 |
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Depends on the hub. Could be easy and tooless. Could be impossible.
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Oct 19, 2022 01:48
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The one on my current wheelset is a campy mirage of unknown year and specs, not sure if that is useful information or not.
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Oct 19, 2022 01:52
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Doable since Campy wheels have both cassette body types as options, but you'll need to find the specs of your wheel to find the correct part.
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Oct 19, 2022 03:50
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If you’re in Portland finding a compatible wheel shouldn’t be too hard. Citybikes at 21st & Ankeny probably has a cheap replacement if you can’t find something on CL. Trying to decide if I want/need to paint this frame or not. The factory paint is mostly intact, just faded. The rear triangle being that beat up has me leaning towards “yes”. The branding is all paint effects and not stickers and I’d want to replicate that with the pink and blue colorway I have in mind.    
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Oct 19, 2022 03:57
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highme posted:If you’re in Portland finding a compatible wheel shouldn’t be too hard. Citybikes at 21st & Ankeny probably has a cheap replacement if you can’t find something on CL. I really wouldn't paint that myself because the original paint is in good condition (good enough for a bike that old) and part of the fun of a bike like that is embracing it's original stylings. Even if you were going to repaint it exactly like it is now it wouldn't be the same. e: Maybe a new coat of black on the damaged areas but even then eh.
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Oct 19, 2022 04:15
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VelociBacon posted:e: Maybe a new coat of black on the damaged areas but even then eh. I'd do it since it at least give you an idea how well a patch spray job holds up over time. It'd be relatively low effort to touch up.
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Oct 19, 2022 15:43
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Just picked up a pair of like-new wheels instead of retrofitting a shimano freehub on a campy wheel. The rear wheel itself runs smoothly, but if I spin it holding the cassete/freehub it has a grainy feel, a noticeable but light grinding-ish sound and doesn't coast for as long. Bearings on the wheel are brand new, nice and packed, and the cups/cones are in good shape. Is that the internal bearings in the freehub itself I'm noticing, and is it normal? In trying to remove the freehub I found out it needs a 12mm hex and not 10, so I took it to my LBS and the mechanic there didn't seem to think that anything was out of the ordinary and suggested I just repack it and not worry about it.
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Oct 24, 2022 00:21
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knobgobblin posted:Just picked up a pair of like-new wheels instead of retrofitting a shimano freehub on a campy wheel. http://vintagecampagnoloforum.blogspot.com/2012/01/miche-conversion-cassette.html
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Oct 24, 2022 00:44
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knobgobblin posted:Just picked up a pair of like-new wheels instead of retrofitting a shimano freehub on a campy wheel. The rear wheel itself runs smoothly, but if I spin it holding the cassete/freehub it has a grainy feel, a noticeable but light grinding-ish sound and doesn't coast for as long. Bearings on the wheel are brand new, nice and packed, and the cups/cones are in good shape. Is that the internal bearings in the freehub itself I'm noticing, and is it normal? Sounds like the bearing in the freehub itself. I would try to clean it out before you jam more grease in.
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Oct 24, 2022 01:53
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kimbo305 posted:I think I missed this the first time, but Miche makes cassettes with individually spaced cogs. You can buy one Shimano cassette and one campagnolo cassette, and swap the Shimano spacers onto the Campy splined cogs. For your future endeavors. Ah, that's good to know! I'll definitely keep that in mind. bicievino posted:Sounds like the bearing in the freehub itself. I would try to clean it out before you jam more grease in. That's definitely my plan. The mechanic at the shop couldn't find the specs of the hub and wasn't sure which way it was threaded so didn't want to wrench too hard on it and just suggested I roll with it. I'm assuming from the videos I've watched on general freehhub servicing that the bolt is threaded normally from the freehub side, right tighty lefty loose. Is that a safe assumption to make? I'd really like to get it off and clean and relube it myself but don't want to gently caress it up.
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Oct 24, 2022 02:15
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Only slightly related to my recent post in the trainer thread. Are the Cane Creek Hellbender headsets worth the cost above the Forty series? I do quite literally everything with this bike and that includes dirty AF gravel and cyclocross when given the chance.
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Oct 25, 2022 12:33
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The main difference is the stainless steel bearing races, right? Might be worth it if it gets wet or sweated on a lot, but the forty is a workhorse and headsets aren't difficult to replace. I seem to recall the hellbender only comes in a few configurations unlike the other series', so it may or may not work for your frame. Eg it doesn't look like there's a combo for a non-integrated tapered head tube. sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Oct 25, 2022 |
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Oct 25, 2022 14:37
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How do your headsets usually fail? That should tell you what you need to look for. I've never owned a decent-quality headset where I regretted not getting tougher. Hell, my Cane Creek Ten has been through like four northeast winters and it doesn't feel any different from when it was new.
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Oct 25, 2022 23:41
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Anyone know what the average cost is for a full frame swap? For a road bike.
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Oct 25, 2022 23:45
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Chinatown posted:Anyone know what the average cost is for a full frame swap? For a road bike. Ask a local mechanic and make sure you have the bike with you when you do. Prices vary in different areas and "a road bike" can be an hour's work or all day.
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Oct 25, 2022 23:49
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Probably at least $200. And then it's easy for all the little things to add up like needing a headset, spacers, cutting steerer, new seatpost, bottom bracket, bar tape, cables and housing, etc. I think we charge $175 for "build bike frame up" and that doesn't include anything extra like I listed above. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 02:57
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Thanks. Its a steel frame 1X with disc brakes so I will hit a few LBS to see what they say. =]
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Oct 26, 2022 05:25
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Death trap alert: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T6ZLD6zvxw The whole video is like a train wreck I can't look away from. The build methods inspire no confidence in the integrity of the frame. The components are all drillium'd to the point of nearly being broken. The *ahem* custom geometry is wild. At least the handlebar setup is kind of a neat way to de bar end shifters?
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Oct 26, 2022 16:07
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It's important to use proper ppe when working with carbon fiber. (gets on completed bike and immediately dies)
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Oct 26, 2022 16:15
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I'm going to give him the bare minimum credit for at least not building a DIY fork
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Oct 26, 2022 16:25
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Death trap alert: I hope there's a follow-up where he's bent his RD hanger. Holy poo poo.
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Oct 26, 2022 18:06
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Amazing, his jig used a fork with a different geometry than the final bike and didn't take into account headset stack. The lack of planning is breathtaking.
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Oct 26, 2022 18:26
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I've been trying to convert this set of wheels to tubeless and I can't seem to get the tape to seal no matter how much I try. These are supposed to be conversion ready. They come with this red strip of fabric over the spokes that's supposed to prevent them from causing punctures, but I've noticed that when I pull off the tape to try and seal it again, a bunch of little threads come loose. I've tried cleaning them up but they just keep coming back. Is this a normal thing tubeless ready tires come with? Is there any reason to keep it?
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Oct 27, 2022 03:59
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Zonko_T.M. posted:I've been trying to convert this set of wheels to tubeless and I can't seem to get the tape to seal no matter how much I try. These are supposed to be conversion ready. They come with this red strip of fabric over the spokes that's supposed to prevent them from causing punctures, but I've noticed that when I pull off the tape to try and seal it again, a bunch of little threads come loose. I've tried cleaning them up but they just keep coming back. Is this a normal thing tubeless ready tires come with? Is there any reason to keep it? That looks like a regular rim strip for use with an inner tube, not tubeless. The spokes couldn't cause punctures without a tube in there.. Throw that red thing out and get a roll of proper tubeless tape. It makes the bed of the rim airtight. Which wheels btw?
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Oct 27, 2022 04:45
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Some WTB rims use that little red rim strip over the spoke holes and then you put a layer of tubeless tape over top of that. But yeah, you need a layer of actual tubeless tape on that rim.
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Oct 27, 2022 05:26
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sweat poteto posted:That looks like a regular rim strip for use with an inner tube, not tubeless. The spokes couldn't cause punctures without a tube in there.. Thank you! I feel really dumb for leaving it in there for so long. The tires are WTB Byway 40mm Here's the tapes I've been trying to use- the green one was goon recommended, the pink was just trying something else to figure out why it wasn't working.  
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Oct 27, 2022 05:39
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try it without that rim strip in there for a better seal around the spoke holes
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Oct 27, 2022 05:49
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I assume the muc off stuff is ok and the green stuff is definitely good. A tip for applying it is to stretch it really tight. It's strong, it can take it. Should look like glass when it's on - no chance of air leaks.
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Oct 27, 2022 06:06
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Zonko_T.M. posted:Thank you! I feel really dumb for leaving it in there for so long. The general guideline is to use tape that is 5mm wider than the inner width of your rim. Eyeballing your photos, I would guess rims are 25mm wide or more. Ideally you'd have 30mm tape here, so either 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" I agree with the suggestion to dispense with woven tape. Also when you retape the rim with the green tape, use two layers. Start wrapping with the tape flush or slightly riding up the rim walls on one side, then do the same thing with the second layer on the other side of the rim-bed.
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Oct 27, 2022 06:16
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Removed the red fabric, cleaned up the gunk and residue left behind really carefully, applied tape as tightly as I can, double layered and making sure it covers to both sides of the rim. Still getting leaks via the spokes. Feeling pretty discouraged. Is there anything else I can troubleshoot before I give up and pay my LBS to do it? I've been trying to do this for months. I've looked up a bunch of guides and tutorials and I just can't get it to work. I've never gotten this stuck with bike repair before! I hate the idea of having a tire setup I can't consistently repair on my own, but I can't figure out where I'm loving this up.  
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Oct 27, 2022 22:05
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That looks solid. What do you mean by leaks? How are you inflating the tire? Can you seat the tire bead? Added sealant?
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Oct 27, 2022 22:14
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My money is on the valve not being tight enough or a the wrong shape for the rim
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Oct 27, 2022 22:19
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Shouldn't that rim tape be dripping with sealant like a scene out of ghost busters if you had tried to seat the bead?
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Oct 27, 2022 22:42
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When I say it leaks- I seated the tire beads and got the tire inflated (they hold air for at least a few minutes) and then I put them in a big shallow bucket of water to check if air bubbles leak out of the spoke holes, and air was coming out of every spoke hole. I'm inflating them using an air compressor with a presta valve adapter. Is this a valid way to check for spoke leaks? I didn't put sealant in today , as I understood it I should make sure the tape seal is solid before I add the sealant? I added sealant before, like a month ago at this point, I thought I'd cracked it, but even after riding around and rolling the sealant around there was still a very slow leak that the water test showed was coming out of a spoke, and the tires at best held air for like 10 minutes. I made sure to clean the sealant off the rims before I taped. I have an injector so I can put in the sealant through the valve after seating the bead. Here's the valves I'm using: https://a.co/d/b1ESVC7 and I believe these are (or are close to) the WTB rims I'm using https://www.wtb.com/products/kom-light-i30 I really hope it's something dumb/easily fixed like I'm using the wrong valve. I appreciate all the help!
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Oct 27, 2022 23:10
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Zonko_T.M. posted:When I say it leaks- I seated the tire beads and got the tire inflated (they hold air for at least a few minutes) and then I put them in a big shallow bucket of water to check if air bubbles leak out of the spoke holes, and air was coming out of every spoke hole. I'm inflating them using an air compressor with a presta valve adapter. Is this a valid way to check for spoke leaks? You're fine, just add sealant and let it seal.
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Oct 27, 2022 23:32
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Haha yeah, some rims/tires will hold air for a while, some won't. If you can seat the bead and it doesn't instantly deflate you're probably good - add 50ml of sealant, spin it around to coat and report back.
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Oct 28, 2022 00:25
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How does your tape look at the valve? I usually heat up a pick and melt a hole so the tape doesn't split. Otherwise yeah sealant and bouncing/shaking the wheel with the valve at the bottom tends to get some splashed in there and fill in little gaps.
jamal fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 28, 2022 |
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Oct 28, 2022 04:10
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Sealant is not optional, even when companies claim it is. Use Orange Seal. And also yes to the valve drilling being the most likely source of a leak...once air leaks into the cavity of the rim, it's going to escape through random spoke holes. You really have to go max finger tightness, and then after the tire inflates it will loosen up and you can add some turns. Also those valves look pretty terrible if the product image is anything to go by. The stoppers/bungs are too small. Go get some Stan's, WTB, Terske, etc. valves, not some terrible random Amazon.com alphabet vomit product from a sleazy junk seller. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Oct 28, 2022 |
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Oct 28, 2022 07:33
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TobinHatesYou posted:Also those valves look pretty terrible if the product image is anything to go by. The stoppers/bungs are too small. Go get some Stan's, WTB, Terske, etc. valves, not some terrible random Amazon.com alphabet vomit product from a sleazy junk seller. I wanna emphasize this. I once had a bad time getting some velocity cliffhanger rims to seal, even with velocity's own valves. It was orange seal valves that finally worked.
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Oct 28, 2022 08:14
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