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Rakeris posted:How far is way up? Could be poor backfill compaction which may lower it a little overtime (or with watering)...if that is the case I would be worried about fall. However it could just be installed higher than you are used to. (Latter is most likely imo) I’ll follow up after the plumbing owner visit this morning
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Oct 10, 2022 13:10
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Absolutely, the contractor should be leaving the house the way they found it, or cleaner. I include clean-up on any claim where that may be an issue. Ask about the hump (hopefully, as remarked already, just uncompacted dirt) as well.
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Oct 10, 2022 14:26
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My sink disposal is leaking pretty significantly from the bottom. Internet diy content sites seem pretty agreed that that’s a sign to pitch the unit and replace. Sound right?
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Oct 10, 2022 15:09
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everdave posted:It was done while I was out of town You gotta be there if a contractor is there imo
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Oct 10, 2022 15:16
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PainterofCrap posted:Absolutely, the contractor should be leaving the house the way they found it, or cleaner. I include clean-up on any claim where that may be an issue. Ask about the hump (hopefully, as remarked already, just uncompacted dirt) as well. Will do they should be here soon Edit to add: He came they fixed the leaking fittings, we went under house to check everything. They swept house up not mopped. He said that bump was about a 4 foot deep dog and it was orange burg?? Paper pipe and they had to dig more than they thought, we have not had rain in a few weeks and he did not want to compact it or after rain would be a ditch. Recommended waiting after a few rains to smooth anything but he said even after there may need to be some work there by new street trap to even. He would lower trap whenever to ground level after that is done. We agreed on a $2k discount with them not addressing the vanity or the floor, which has dried out. This was a closet before I turned into a bathroom and floor was pretty crap anyways, after dehumidifier all night honestly it is back to what it was. Bottom of this $99 vanity floor bottom is a bit bubbles but I’ll take saving $2k. I have owners cell only way I even got someone out, my best friend owns biggest contractors in the county and gives them insane biz on giant jobs it won’t be an issue if issues arise. I am 7/10 on the job I’ll need to mop or since kids are at their moms see if I can find some housekeeper service to mop for $100 or so and go drink beer somewhere everdave fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Oct 10, 2022 |
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Oct 10, 2022 15:24
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Sounds like a good discount. It is really worrying that something they replaced/touched was leaking though, that should be repipe verification step 1. Did you have this permitted and inspected? Have you closed the walls yet? Post some pictures of their joints and this mystery bump for some hot takes.
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Oct 11, 2022 21:26
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H110Hawk posted:Sounds like a good discount. It is really worrying that something they replaced/touched was leaking though, that should be repipe verification step 1. Did you have this permitted and inspected? Have you closed the walls yet? Here is the hump 
everdave fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 21:46
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everdave posted:Here is the hump You can shave that down with the lawnmower, just send it.
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Oct 12, 2022 04:40
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Quick natural gas plumbing question that I'm hoping is nothing to even look further into. I noticed that our service side natural gas line of the meter had some corrosion (first pic) and called the company to come in; they determined that they needed to repair, and this is how it looks now (second pic); I expected they would just replace the line, but I don't know anything about these types of repairs. I'm not sure what is on there now, but it's almost like a putty. The repair couldn't just be shoving that over the corroded section, could it? There is that new connection there (which I'm guessing is a valve but not completely sure) so I'm assuming at least part of the line is new. That got me into thinking about another question that seems like it would be good to know as a homeowner. Where is the shutoff for the natural gas leading to the meter? I know how to shut off at the meter (for leaks in the house), but not sure how to shut off if there was a leak before the meter. Or is this something that homeowners would never deal with anyways and would only be the fire department, power company, etc.?   edit: fixed my images. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Oct 14, 2022 |
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Oct 14, 2022 01:45
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PageMaster posted:Quick natural gas plumbing question that I'm hoping is nothing to even look further into. I noticed that our service side natural gas line of the meter had some corrosion (first pic) and called the company to come in; they determined that they needed to repair, and this is how it looks now (second pic); I expected they would just replace the line, but I don't know anything about these types of repairs. I'm not sure what is on there now, but it's almost like a putty. The repair couldn't just be shoving that over the corroded section, could it? There is that new connection there (which I'm guessing is a valve but not completely sure) so I'm assuming at least part of the line is new. That valve in your bottom picture is how you'd turn it off before the meter. If it's leaking before that it's either a 911 call or your gas company's emergency line. It's a quarter turn valve, so you'd turn the part on the far side until it lines up with the hole (which is there so you can lock the two parts together). Depending on your local laws/utility rules, it's very possible you aren't supposed to touch that valve (but in an emergency, turning it off is usually fine). That repair looks like it's some sort of epoxy impregnated fiberglass, and is probably fine for the surface corrosion that was on the pipe.
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Oct 14, 2022 01:54
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devicenull posted:That valve in your bottom picture is how you'd turn it off before the meter. If it's leaking before that it's either a 911 call or your gas company's emergency line. It's a quarter turn valve, so you'd turn the part on the far side until it lines up with the hole (which is there so you can lock the two parts together). Depending on your local laws/utility rules, it's very possible you aren't supposed to touch that valve (but in an emergency, turning it off is usually fine). Thanks! Looking at older pictures, it's hidden so you can't tell for sure but that valve may actually be original. Not entirely sure, but there's a cover in the middle of the road that lines up directly with the service side line so I'm assuming that is where the utility company would shut off at the main; I checked after you mentioned it in your post and you're right, it would be 911 and the gas company emergency line before that valve. turns out that I am allowed to shut it off at that valve, but I would not be allowed to turn it back on; only the utility company can do that. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Oct 14, 2022 |
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Oct 14, 2022 02:09
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PageMaster posted:Thanks! Looking at older pictures, it's hidden so you can't tell for sure but that valve may actually be original. Not entirely sure, but there's a cover in the middle of the road that lines up directly with the service side line so I'm assuming that is where the utility company would shut off at the main; I checked after you mentioned it in your post and you're right, it would be 911 and the gas company emergency line before that valve. turns out that I am allowed to shut it off at that valve, but I would not be allowed to turn it back on; only the utility company can do that. If you call the utility emergency line ("press 1 to report a gas leak") you will have someone out there in no time flat. If you smell it strongly inside your house get your loved ones out and around the corner with another house between you and your house then dial 911. Gas Co are digging up the sidewalk outside a neighbors house for the third time in a month. 
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Oct 14, 2022 02:49
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H110Hawk posted:If you call the utility emergency line ("press 1 to report a gas leak") you will have someone out there in no time flat. There's an underground gas leak near a local harbor, been there for a decade. Gas company DGAF, it leaks too little for them to repair it and "it's not a hazard".
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Oct 14, 2022 12:57
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sharkytm posted:There's an underground gas leak near a local harbor, been there for a decade. Gas company DGAF, it leaks too little for them to repair it and "it's not a hazard". Are you in a state where the epa cares?
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Oct 14, 2022 14:14
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H110Hawk posted:Are you in a state where the epa cares? MA, so you'd think so, but it's been literally reported about in the local paper and no one seems to care. The smell isn't strong or always-present.
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Oct 14, 2022 15:40
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Got a plumbing vent predicament--I'm prepping the roof for eventual solar installation next year, but will be replacing the roof in the next month or so (age/leaks). I haven't finalized the solar provider but I'd like to have the roof install-ready to simplify things. I have a kitchen plumbing vent that's poking up where I'd like to have a panel, and so I want to move it close to the kitchen exhaust fan because I'll have a blank space there anyway for it. So my question is--is there any reason I shouldn't put the vent directly in front of the kitchen exhaust fan (that's the "green" combination below)? Or should I risk having a panel close to the fire-code keep-out and put it adjacent to the vent (the yellow combination)? I can't think of a practical reason to not have the vent in front of the fan but it feels wrong somehow... 
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Oct 15, 2022 02:33
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I need a check here before I go taking a sink supply apart. I have experience with plumbing and thanks to this thread have even replaced a bunch of corroded copper for the washing machine with Pex - A (which is love, it is very forgiving). Someone decided to connect galvanized directly to copper and then let bake for five to ten years. The washing machine hookup: Before:  After:  The shark bites are because my home appliance lines are 3/8" and 3/8" solder to 1/2" pex is not something I can find. The current issue is that the contractor grade kitchen faucet rusted out and I have a new one to replace it (Delta natch). But, when inspecting the hot water hookup I found another galvanized T that looks like its doing the same job that the last one did.  My question or conundrum is this. It LOOKS like I can remove the corroded fixture and replace with a brass one, but I suspect, that the supply side is copper again and its just corroding inside waiting to fail and be an emergency when I don't want it to be one. I think after rubbing the supply line with my pocket knife that that is in fact copper on the supply side. If someone tells me yes, I'll just pex all this poo poo out anyways and just take it all the way back to the main supply for the kitchen. The other fear is that if I start to take the corroded bit off the copper supply side will break or otherwise fail. I'm so done with POs and their cheap rear end solutions to problems. I just hate having to take the sink out of commission for a long period of time and having to fight in the walls. But, thankfully it isn't buy first rodeo anymore.   CAT TAX:  
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Oct 17, 2022 17:19
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Barely qualifies as plumbing, really, but I have a ton of particulate coming from my well. Where it annoys me is that the screen on the cold water line of my washing machine gets clogged with sand and it's just an enormous pain to get back there and clean it out. Yes I know the solution is a whole house sediment filter off the main water line, but is there something I can do in the short term that would keep dirt out of the washing machine that would be slightly less of a pain? Something like a quick release instead of that God forsaken threaded hose end?
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Oct 17, 2022 21:58
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null_pointer posted:Barely qualifies as plumbing, really, but I have a ton of particulate coming from my well. Where it annoys me is that the screen on the cold water line of my washing machine gets clogged with sand and it's just an enormous pain to get back there and clean it out. Put an inline filter with the same hose ends? A big spin on filter would last a while on a washer, I'd think
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Oct 17, 2022 22:19
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How does the hot water stay clean? Big filter before the water heater? But ya, seems like just throw on a filter in-line to the washer.
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Oct 18, 2022 00:10
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the poi posted:How does the hot water stay clean? Big filter before the water heater? But ya, seems like just throw on a filter in-line to the washer. I think it goes into the hot water tank where the sediment falls out? Bottom of the hot water tank probably looks pretty grotty.
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Oct 18, 2022 00:47
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PageMaster posted:Thanks! Looking at older pictures, it's hidden so you can't tell for sure but that valve may actually be original. Not entirely sure, but there's a cover in the middle of the road that lines up directly with the service side line so I'm assuming that is where the utility company would shut off at the main; I checked after you mentioned it in your post and you're right, it would be 911 and the gas company emergency line before that valve. turns out that I am allowed to shut it off at that valve, but I would not be allowed to turn it back on; only the utility company can do that. That style of valve was probably there before, but that particular valve looks too shiny to be old. This kind of valve can get stuck open, so they probably just swapped it while they were there. You can hit all that with some spray paint if it's too ugly.
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Oct 18, 2022 02:10
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Found on imgur: "Activating garbage disposal when right sink is full fills the left sink with death fluid." 
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Oct 18, 2022 03:06
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Not sure if plumbing or landscaping, but guessing here. Our house has a irrigation control box with three valves/zones. These are anti-siphon valves, which provide the backflow prevention, but from what I understand these need to be higher than the highest irrigation point in order to work. Of course, they aren't, so I'm trying to figure out how to make it better/safer. They're just the all-in one valve you find at home depot and look like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bird-3-4-in-Anti-Siphon-Irrigation-Valve-with-Flow-Control-DASASVF075/100036021. Is the best/easiest way forward to just replace them with in-line double-check valves? Or do I dig up the line leading to the control box and install one there? Or am I overreacting?
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Oct 25, 2022 16:18
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PageMaster posted:Not sure if plumbing or landscaping, but guessing here. Our house has a irrigation control box with three valves/zones. These are anti-siphon valves, which provide the backflow prevention, but from what I understand these need to be higher than the highest irrigation point in order to work. Of course, they aren't, so I'm trying to figure out how to make it better/safer. They're just the all-in one valve you find at home depot and look like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rain-Bird-3-4-in-Anti-Siphon-Irrigation-Valve-with-Flow-Control-DASASVF075/100036021. Is the best/easiest way forward to just replace them with in-line double-check valves? Or do I dig up the line leading to the control box and install one there? Or am I overreacting? I wouldn't trust those valves even if they were above your highest emitter. You should be running a backflow preventer installed at an appropriate height on the feed to them as part of your building plumbing. And no, you are not overreacting. It's not a likely event for them to siphon back but it would be a nasty one with potentially real bad consequences if for some reason you don't notice.
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Oct 25, 2022 17:23
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Motronic posted:I wouldn't trust those valves even if they were above your highest emitter. You should be running a backflow preventer installed at an appropriate height on the feed to them as part of your building plumbing. Thanks. It's a wierd setup (I think); I just managed to find the control valve for the irrigation main line after it tees off the water main. I would presume whoever built the house or installed the irrigation would put some type of backflow preventer there but I would also assume it would be above ground if it were there. Short of digging up the entire yard I may just need to hire a plumber to trace the line back from the irrigation valves and find the best place to put a backflow preventer. In the meantime I've just turned off the valves that feed elevated emitters while I work through that. Edit: should I look for plumbers or irrigation contractors or general contractors? Edit2: or I missed the bigger picture where I know there's a tie into the main coming to the house but no above ground backflow preventer there either. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Oct 25, 2022 |
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Oct 25, 2022 19:49
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It sounds like you don't know how these irrigation zones are fed from your home so yeah, hire a plumber. There should be both a backflow prevention device and a shutoff.
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Oct 25, 2022 23:02
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Motronic posted:It sounds like you don't know how these irrigation zones are fed from your home so yeah, hire a plumber. There should be both a backflow prevention device and a shutoff. Right, I found the shutoff for the irrigation main. Based on its location, it ties into the water main about 3 feet after the main shutoff for the property, and there is definitely no backflow prevention above ground there, and definitely no box that would let me even see the connection itself. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Oct 25, 2022 |
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Oct 25, 2022 23:44
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Does anyone have any recommendations for reverse osmosis filters for a kitchen sink? We’re in an area with more than our fair share of water issues and we’re looking to find a unit to connect to a drinking water spigot in the kitchen.
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Oct 26, 2022 15:32
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Ratatozsk posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for reverse osmosis filters for a kitchen sink? We’re in an area with more than our fair share of water issues and we’re looking to find a unit to connect to a drinking water spigot in the kitchen.  I have this one, it dealt with some ridiculously hard water just fine before we got a new well (2500 ppm hard). I have a TDS tester I use about once a month to determine when to replace the RO membrane, so far, 1.5 years on, I'm still on the original one.
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Oct 26, 2022 18:21
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I'm trying to fix this dripping spigot in red by heating the area in green to remove it. Shut off valve is yellow. I shut off the water, and opened all of the faucets in my house, and let it drain for 15 minutes. There is still a persistent drip, and I'm using MAPP gas and its just making steam. What are my options? Shut off at the street as well? Cut it off and then do something? Call a plumber? edit - My other thought is that it might just be residual water sitting in the vertical section of the pipe -  I guess I could shut if off at the street, leave the house shutoff open, and drain everything out through the sprinklers - purple above. edit 2: That last one worked. Drained everything out through the sprinklers and it worked right away. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Oct 28, 2022 |
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Oct 28, 2022 00:13
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Ja, it's water standing in the pipe (or possibly some dripping out of the house, as well). Without a bleed port on the main, it could take awhile. You appear to have enough room to cut it off & sweat on another - or better yet, sweat on a female-threaded nipple.
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Oct 28, 2022 00:57
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Ratatozsk posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for reverse osmosis filters for a kitchen sink? We’re in an area with more than our fair share of water issues and we’re looking to find a unit to connect to a drinking water spigot in the kitchen. Take your pick from https://www.purewaterproducts.com/ Customer service is A+... I wish I got referral bonuses!
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Oct 28, 2022 00:57
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My SO is annoyed at the amount of calcium buildup on everything and wants me to do something about it. We don't have well water or anything, but we do seem to have harder than average water. I've read that water softening systems need a lot of maintenance and that there are salt-free systems that don't need maintenance but maybe aren't as good? I don't really know where to start on figuring out what the hell I need, except I know I need to do something. Help me goons!
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Oct 29, 2022 03:49
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A water hardness test. You have to define the scope of the problem before you can evaluate what systems are appropriate to fix it.
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Oct 29, 2022 16:11
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Motronic posted:A water hardness test. Good call. Totally forgot that was a thing.
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Oct 29, 2022 17:51
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I have a leaking toilet. The cause was obvious: the rubber seal in the flushing was old and crumbling. I assumed this would be a simple replacement, but the bathroom/plumbing stores near me don't sell any spare parts for the manufacturer in question (Cersanit). Googling return a few reviews saying that getting repalcement parts from this company is very difficult, if not impossible. I ended up buying a rubber seal for a different toilet and cutting it into approximately the same size, but that didn't work very well (although slightly better that the original crumbling seal). In the absence of spare parts: Is it possible to replace the entire flushing mechanism with something from a different manufacturer, or will I have to replace the entire toilet? I'll probably call a plumber on monday, but I'd like to have an idea of what my options are.
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Oct 29, 2022 19:21
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A new no frills toilet is around $100 sometimes at the hardware store is it worth all the extra effort to find parts for an obscure brand?
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Oct 29, 2022 19:49
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Nostalgamus posted:I have a leaking toilet. The cause was obvious: the rubber seal in the flushing was old and crumbling. I assumed this would be a simple replacement, but the bathroom/plumbing stores near me don't sell any spare parts for the manufacturer in question (Cersanit). Googling return a few reviews saying that getting repalcement parts from this company is very difficult, if not impossible. Is it a standard looking toilet? You should be able to swap one of these in no problem - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fluidmaster-Universal-Toilet-Fill-Valve/1001097428 (or is that not the part that's leaking?)
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Oct 29, 2022 22:51
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The cistern is leaking into the bowl. The intake seems fine.
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Oct 30, 2022 12:44
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