Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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The Dave: Sep 9, 2003

lol internet. posted:

Anyway, I did email them about this a couple weeks ago, no answer of course.

Username + post combo

Did you like actually sign a contract?

# ? Oct 30, 2022 12:08

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# ? Jun 7, 2024 06:10

tater_salad: Sep 15, 2007

lol internet. posted:

Ermm let me know if this should maybe be posted somewhere else.. woodworking?

Long story short, a year ago I got a contractor to build a fairly large deck. Towards the completion, I did raise some concerns that the footing/beams are not plumb, but they said it should be fine as long as it doesn't get worse.

Fast forward to a year later, it looks terrible, it's angled like 3-4 inches from 90 degrees. The whole deck building process with them was sort of a crapshoot. They had some complaints; they took forever to address them. Sometimes they just didn't respond to emails.

Anyway, I did email them about this a couple weeks ago, no answer of course. I'm going to call them, but I feel like this is getting not going to get anywhere.

So, what really are my options if I can't get them to resolve this? File a complaint with state contractor board? Small claims court?

There was no permit pulled, contractor told me he'd build a retaining wall and raise the height of the ground so the footings so it wouldn't be higher than 2 feet off the ground (it still is though, maybe 3-4 feet.)

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/HDEXtPz

Lol no they need to come back and do that properly, or hire someone to fix it that isn't them and send them the bill. that looks like they hosed up and mad no attempt to fixe

# ? Oct 30, 2022 13:53

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

lol internet. posted:

Ermm let me know if this should maybe be posted somewhere else.. woodworking?

Long story short, a year ago I got a contractor to build a fairly large deck. Towards the completion, I did raise some concerns that the footing/beams are not plumb, but they said it should be fine as long as it doesn't get worse.

Fast forward to a year later, it looks terrible, it's angled like 3-4 inches from 90 degrees. The whole deck building process with them was sort of a crapshoot. They had some complaints; they took forever to address them. Sometimes they just didn't respond to emails.

Anyway, I did email them about this a couple weeks ago, no answer of course. I'm going to call them, but I feel like this is getting not going to get anywhere.

So, what really are my options if I can't get them to resolve this? File a complaint with state contractor board? Small claims court?

There was no permit pulled, contractor told me he'd build a retaining wall and raise the height of the ground so the footings so it wouldn't be higher than 2 feet off the ground (it still is though, maybe 3-4 feet.)

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/HDEXtPz

lol that's terrible. Sounds like you just got a hug lesson in permits and contracts.

You don't need a different thread: you need a lawyer.

# ? Oct 30, 2022 14:46

Tezer: Jul 9, 2001

lol internet. posted:

So, what really are my options if I can't get them to resolve this? File a complaint with state contractor board? Small claims court?

There was no permit pulled, contractor told me he'd build a retaining wall and raise the height of the ground so the footings so it wouldn't be higher than 2 feet off the ground (it still is though, maybe 3-4 feet.)

Fixing your issues and recovering money are probably two different projects. Talk to a lawyer, throw yourself on the mercy of the permitting authority, and start looking for a new contractor.

Did you replace an existing deck or is this new lot coverage? Did you check setback and coverage requirements before you built it? Generally the permit issues should just result in a fine, but if you violated zoning rules it will likely escalate.

# ? Oct 30, 2022 15:14

Xenix: Feb 21, 2003

lol internet. posted:

Ermm let me know if this should maybe be posted somewhere else.. woodworking?

Long story short, a year ago I got a contractor to build a fairly large deck. Towards the completion, I did raise some concerns that the footing/beams are not plumb, but they said it should be fine as long as it doesn't get worse.

Fast forward to a year later, it looks terrible, it's angled like 3-4 inches from 90 degrees. The whole deck building process with them was sort of a crapshoot. They had some complaints; they took forever to address them. Sometimes they just didn't respond to emails.

Anyway, I did email them about this a couple weeks ago, no answer of course. I'm going to call them, but I feel like this is getting not going to get anywhere.

So, what really are my options if I can't get them to resolve this? File a complaint with state contractor board? Small claims court?

There was no permit pulled, contractor told me he'd build a retaining wall and raise the height of the ground so the footings so it wouldn't be higher than 2 feet off the ground (it still is though, maybe 3-4 feet.)

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/HDEXtPz

Where are you located? Some states have provisions in the law for defective construction. In California, for example, you're on the hook for 10 years for defective construction (in most, but not all, cases) and there is a statutory process you have to exhaust before you can sue.

I'd Google construction defect lawyers in your area, though that looks like a small enough problem that you may have to pay hourly for their services (as opposed to them doing it for a cut of the settlement).

Your deck looks to be on a slight slope. Does the slope get steeper out of frame? How deep did their piers go?

Edit: I missed the part about the retaining wall. I'd look at that as well. If he pulled no permit, it was not engineered. If he used a pre-engineered modular block wall, they have very specific requirements. If your piers are moving and there's a retaining wall nearby, I'd hazard a guess that's moving too.

Xenix fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Oct 30, 2022

# ? Oct 30, 2022 16:59

Bobstar: Feb 8, 2006; KartooshFace, you are not responding efficiently!

I have a bike hanger like this in my shed

attached to the red brick wall. But the top plugs keep pulling out, because the brick is too soft (I think). I was using some kind of "universal" plastic rawl plugs.

I want to move it to the opposite wall anyway - iss there a more suitable anchor to use in that type of brick?

E: this type of brick

Bobstar fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Oct 30, 2022

# ? Oct 30, 2022 17:09

Arsenic Lupin: Apr 12, 2012; This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.

hooah posted:

I thought these disintegrate fairly quickly if they're outside all the time? Particularly from the sun. But if not, this is at least a good base.

Well, I learned a new word today. Neither Lowe's nor Home Depot's sites have anything that seem to be relevant. How would I attache the battens (slats?) to the tarp, and how would I secure the whole thing to the sandbox?

We wanted something like this, but couldn't find one that wasn't tiny when we were shopping.

Hit the garden section, look at garden hoops. Place down the middle of the sandbox. Drape tarp.

# ? Oct 30, 2022 17:27

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK: Jan 26, 2016; by Fluffdaddy

Bobstar posted:

I have a bike hanger like this in my shed

attached to the red brick wall. But the top plugs keep pulling out, because the brick is too soft (I think). I was using some kind of "universal" plastic rawl plugs.

I want to move it to the opposite wall anyway - iss there a more suitable anchor to use in that type of brick?

E: this type of brick

Any concrete anchor should work, tapcons are ubiquitous. They need to embed at least 1� but less than 1 3/4� so figure out how thick the bike rack is, add that to 1� and size your screws accordingly. For more strength you could use epoxy in the hole or even fastening a 2x8 or whatever to the wall with plenty of fasteners, and then fasten the rack to that.

# ? Oct 30, 2022 19:41

lol internet.: Sep 4, 2007; the internet makes you stupid

The Dave posted:

Username + post combo

Did you like actually sign a contract?

Unfortunately no.

Tezer posted:

Fixing your issues and recovering money are probably two different projects. Talk to a lawyer, throw yourself on the mercy of the permitting authority, and start looking for a new contractor.

Did you replace an existing deck or is this new lot coverage? Did you check setback and coverage requirements before you built it? Generally the permit issues should just result in a fine, but if you violated zoning rules it will likely escalate.

I was just thinking of going through small claims court in all honesty. Is there really any point of getting a lawyer given they'll just eat all the costs? Realistically the deck project costed 50k roughly. Would it really cost more then 5-10k to fix?

Xenix posted:

Where are you located? Some states have provisions in the law for defective construction. In California, for example, you're on the hook for 10 years for defective construction (in most, but not all, cases) and there is a statutory process you have to exhaust before you can sue.

I'd Google construction defect lawyers in your area, though that looks like a small enough problem that you may have to pay hourly for their services (as opposed to them doing it for a cut of the settlement).

Your deck looks to be on a slight slope. Does the slope get steeper out of frame? How deep did their piers go?

Edit: I missed the part about the retaining wall. I'd look at that as well. If he pulled no permit, it was not engineered. If he used a pre-engineered modular block wall, they have very specific requirements. If your piers are moving and there's a retaining wall nearby, I'd hazard a guess that's moving too.

I'm in WA. In an unincorporated area if it matters. So my backyard does have a slope. At the highest area it would of been maybe 6 feet in the air, they dug 2 feet down, put in the fitting form, then built a retaining wall and filled in the area with some dirt.

# ? Oct 30, 2022 21:37

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

lol internet. posted:

I was just thinking of going through small claims court in all honesty. Is there really any point of getting a lawyer given they'll just eat all the costs? Realistically the deck project costed 50k roughly. Would it really cost more then 5-10k to fix?

Nobody can tell you this. Because we haven't seen what ELSE is wrong with your deck and I bet you don't know either. Since it was unpermitted nobody who knows what the hell they are looking at as ever looked at it.

So somebody is going to have to start with that, which is what the lawyer will tell you.

# ? Oct 30, 2022 22:25

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

lol internet. posted:

Unfortunately no.

I was just thinking of going through small claims court in all honesty. Is there really any point of getting a lawyer given they'll just eat all the costs? Realistically the deck project costed 50k roughly. Would it really cost more then 5-10k to fix?

If it was built without a permit, and is showing such deficiencies, the town/ county or whoever, if they get involved could very easily tell you to tear the whole thing down. So yeah, that could potentially cost more than 5-10k to "fix".

# ? Oct 30, 2022 22:29

tangy yet delightful: Sep 13, 2005

While trying to get a stripped philips head screw out (it wasn't me!) I managed to snap the head off, thought I was finally managing to turn the screw but was just ripping the head off I guess.

It's the top screw for a deadbolt setup, what's a good way to go about getting this out without ruining the door? I've already tried grabbing it with my needlenose pliers and turning to no avail, also can't get the drill chucked down on it to reverse it out that way. Currently I have the deadbolt secured with the bottom hole and a nice 2" screw biting into good wood so I'm not freaking out with an unsecured front door (well completely anyway), but I would like it fixed properly soonTM.

I have access to drill, driver(impact), needlenose pliers, OMT, dremel. I'm willing to buy some other right thing tool(s) if needed.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 01:31

CRUSTY MINGE: Mar 30, 2011; Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Clamp a pair of vice grips onto it and turn.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 01:33

tangy yet delightful: Sep 13, 2005

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

Clamp a pair of vice grips onto it and turn.

Feel like I'd need a pair with a very needle tip, any recs?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-9-in-Torque-Lock-Long-Nose-Locking-Pliers-with-Durable-Grip-48-22-3409/205017705

Quick look at HD shows me maybe this?

# ? Oct 31, 2022 01:50

devicenull: May 30, 2007; Grimey Drawer

tangy yet delightful posted:

While trying to get a stripped philips head screw out (it wasn't me!) I managed to snap the head off, thought I was finally managing to turn the screw but was just ripping the head off I guess.

It's the top screw for a deadbolt setup, what's a good way to go about getting this out without ruining the door? I've already tried grabbing it with my needlenose pliers and turning to no avail, also can't get the drill chucked down on it to reverse it out that way. Currently I have the deadbolt secured with the bottom hole and a nice 2" screw biting into good wood so I'm not freaking out with an unsecured front door (well completely anyway), but I would like it fixed properly soonTM.

I have access to drill, driver(impact), needlenose pliers, OMT, dremel. I'm willing to buy some other right thing tool(s) if needed.

Start with what you have? Dremel a slot in it and see if you can get it out w/ a flathead?

You could also just abandon it and install something like https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Hardware-72001-Strike-Deadbolt/dp/B01D8SV5L8/

# ? Oct 31, 2022 01:56

tangy yet delightful: Sep 13, 2005

Dremeling a slot is something I've read a million times and then totally forgot about, I'll give that a go.

That's strike plate is cool, the plate on the deadbolt seemed integrated with the unit but I'll have to examine it (not moved into the house as of yet).

# ? Oct 31, 2022 02:00

CRUSTY MINGE: Mar 30, 2011; Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

You just need to get a bite on it, if you have a pair of regular locking pliers around, I'd try with those first. Tighten it down on a bite of screw before locking, add an extra turn to the adjuster, then clamp and twist.

Needle nose locking pliers might be helpful but you should be able to get that with regular locking pliers depending on the angle of attack. You'll have to reset a time or two, until it's far enough out to get a good bite and spin the pliers without smacking the door.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 02:02

tangy yet delightful: Sep 13, 2005

I own the craftsman locking wrench and tried that but it's too big to get into this somewhat recessed screw spot, and beyond that I don't own any locking plier type things. Current plan is dremel attempt, then locking pliers attempt.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 02:08

TooMuchAbstraction: Oct 14, 2012; I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.; Fun Shoe

If all else fails, screw extractor bits exist. You basically drill a small hole into the shaft of the screw, then jam the extractor bit in and turn it. It grips the screw when you're running the drill in "reverse", which causes the screw to unscrew.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 02:09

CRUSTY MINGE: Mar 30, 2011; Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Yeah, you wouldn't get much turn on a bite in the door, but enough small turns eventually gets you to bigger ones.

If the dremel doesn't do it, go for a pair of needle nose lockers. You probably won't need 9", and home depot will have a wide selection anyhow.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 02:11

alnilam: Nov 10, 2009

Home depot delivery contractors recently came and put in our new washing machine. There is now a leak there did not used to be. It's coming from the hot water shutoff knob:

That sits above the actual hookup. Some green corrosion on the hookup below makes me think the leak is not actually new but perhaps used to be smaller?

I can stop the leak by shutting the valve. I checked if that screw is tight enough and it seems pretty tight. How can i get in there and fix the leak? It's a slow drip but enough to deposit some pretty bad puddles over time and it's not a drained basement floor or anything so it's really not acceptable.

alnilam fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Oct 31, 2022

# ? Oct 31, 2022 04:39

tater_salad: Sep 15, 2007

alnilam posted:

Home depot delivery contractors recently came and put in our new washing machine. There is now a leak there did not used to be. It's coming from the hot water shutoff knob:

That sits above the actual hookup. Some green corrosion on the hookup below makes me think the leak is not actually new but perhaps used to be smaller?

I can stop the leak by shutting the valve. I checked if that screw is tight enough and it seems pretty tight. How can i get in there and fix the leak? It's a slow drip but enough to deposit some pretty bad puddles over time and it's not a drained basement floor or anything so it's really not acceptable.

I'd not blame the contractors, likely your shutoff is old and lovely and them shutting the water off to replace the washer caused it. is there any way to access this shutoff like on the other side of the wall or is everything finished? Your best bet is to see if you can find the washers to rebuild that / find a plumber who can instead of pulling it out and replacing it leaving a hole in your drywall (if it's in an area you care about)

This is bad advice: It may eventually "crud up" again if you leave it alone for awhile.. this is not the right way to fix this.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 12:16

CzarChasm: Mar 14, 2009; I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

I had new storm doors installed on my house recently, and annoyingly, the latch sticks on one of them. The handle on the outside is a button press, and it works, but when you let go of the button it sticks, so the door is stuck in the open position. If on the inside you press in the lever, it springs back into the closed position on its own. What might cause this?

# ? Oct 31, 2022 15:27

PoopShipDestroyer: Jan 13, 2006; I think he's ready for a chair

tangy yet delightful posted:

While trying to get a stripped philips head screw out (it wasn't me!) I managed to snap the head off, thought I was finally managing to turn the screw but was just ripping the head off I guess.

It's the top screw for a deadbolt setup, what's a good way to go about getting this out without ruining the door? I've already tried grabbing it with my needlenose pliers and turning to no avail, also can't get the drill chucked down on it to reverse it out that way. Currently I have the deadbolt secured with the bottom hole and a nice 2" screw biting into good wood so I'm not freaking out with an unsecured front door (well completely anyway), but I would like it fixed properly soonTM.

I have access to drill, driver(impact), needlenose pliers, OMT, dremel. I'm willing to buy some other right thing tool(s) if needed.

You could try using a stripped screw removal kit? I've used mine a couple times with success (but full disclosure probably more than a few times with no success at all)

I took our stair runner off yesterday and now I can notice that when weight is applied to certain stairs, the tread slightly flexes and separates from the riser (see pic). What's the best way to fix this? We're going to be putting down a new runner so I was thinking if I just run a screw or a nail dead center through the front part of the tread into the stringer it will secure it better? I saw some places say to use a drywall screw and others to use nails, which is better?

# ? Oct 31, 2022 16:08

Danhenge: Dec 16, 2005

There's also these things:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/screw-extractor-1-4

Works alright, you have to take it slow and then you'll have another hole to fill at the end. Might not be great for your particular case.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 16:15

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Danhenge posted:

There's also these things:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/screw-extractor-1-4

Works alright, you have to take it slow and then you'll have another hole to fill at the end. Might not be great for your particular case.

drat!! I forgot those things exist. Yeah, busted screw OP, try one of these things and then once you get it out, shove a piece of dowel in there with some good adhesive, give it a bit of time to cure and then you've got fresh wood to work with.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 17:31

Corla Plankun: May 8, 2007; improve the lives of everyone

Does anyone make a basic thermostat with a "circulation mode" (i.e. it kicks on the fan [no heat/ac] if it has been a while since the system ran)?

"Winter" is here in Texas and there's no reason to heat or cool anything for a while, and I'd like to stop having to manually janitor turning the fan on and off. I am very forgetful and it probably shouldn't run for hours at a time.

I am disgusted by the idea of wifi or bluetooth in a thermostat and I don't really care about it being programmable very much. But my googling for a non-"wireless enabled" thermostat with air circulation was fruitless.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 17:54

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Corla Plankun posted:

Does anyone make a basic thermostat with a "circulation mode" (i.e. it kicks on the fan [no heat/ac] if it has been a while since the system ran)?

"Winter" is here in Texas and there's no reason to heat or cool anything for a while, and I'd like to stop having to manually janitor turning the fan on and off. I am very forgetful and it probably shouldn't run for hours at a time.

I am disgusted by the idea of wifi or bluetooth in a thermostat and I don't really care about it being programmable very much. But my googling for a non-"wireless enabled" thermostat with air circulation was fruitless.

That's something typically accomplished with a time clock on/near the unit itself. At least in commercial settings I'm familiar with.

I've never seen it as part of a basic thermostat, just a barely controllable extra function of the internet of poo poo ones.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 18:02

alnilam: Nov 10, 2009

^^^ Just get one of the regular digital schedule-programmable ones. You don't have to actually use the programming feature of it. I've never seen one of the truly analog ones (kind with a bimetallic strip and a dial) with a Circulate feature. But the regular ol digital ones are not internet connected.

tater_salad posted:

I'd not blame the contractors, likely your shutoff is old and lovely and them shutting the water off to replace the washer caused it. is there any way to access this shutoff like on the other side of the wall or is everything finished? Your best bet is to see if you can find the washers to rebuild that / find a plumber who can instead of pulling it out and replacing it leaving a hole in your drywall (if it's in an area you care about)

This is bad advice: It may eventually "crud up" again if you leave it alone for awhile.. this is not the right way to fix this.

Yeah I'm sure you're right, especially given the drips are definitely from the shut-off knob, which I'm sure they didn't mess with other than to turn it off and on.

I don't really care about a hole in the wall there tbh. I just don't know where to start with investigating this kind of shutoff valve. How do I look at its innards? Are they inside that sleeve, or behind it? I'm more used to the kind where all the nuts etc are right there for you to see.

alnilam fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Oct 31, 2022

# ? Oct 31, 2022 18:57

PremiumSupport: Aug 17, 2015

Corla Plankun posted:

Does anyone make a basic thermostat with a "circulation mode" (i.e. it kicks on the fan [no heat/ac] if it has been a while since the system ran)?

"Winter" is here in Texas and there's no reason to heat or cool anything for a while, and I'd like to stop having to manually janitor turning the fan on and off. I am very forgetful and it probably shouldn't run for hours at a time.

I am disgusted by the idea of wifi or bluetooth in a thermostat and I don't really care about it being programmable very much. But my googling for a non-"wireless enabled" thermostat with air circulation was fruitless.

For what it's worth, the guys that installed my forced air system said there's nothing wrong with leaving the fan on circulate 24/7. It can actually be beneficial, especially if you or someone you live with has allergies, as the air will pass through the filter more often.

# ? Oct 31, 2022 19:00

tater_salad: Sep 15, 2007

alnilam posted:

^^^ Just get one of the regular digital schedule-programmable ones. You don't have to actually use the programming feature of it. I've never seen one of the truly analog ones with a Circulate feature.

Yeah I'm sure you're right, especially given the drips are definitely from the shut-off knob, which I'm sure they didn't mess with other than to turn it off and on.

I don't really care about a hole in the wall there tbh. I just don't know where to start with investigating this kind of shutoff valve. How do I look at its innards? Are they inside that sleeve, or behind it? I'm more used to the kind where all the nuts etc are right there for you to see.

Step 1 would be to pull off the handle and see if that retains the chrome "decoration" ring behind it.. then there's probably a nut or something behind it.. you'd need to shut water off before it.. take it apart / look for a brand on the housing and see if there's a rebuild kit for that brand. (or save some headache and spend 15 bux on a variety pack of sizes)
You can also try and tighten down the nut that it exposes (possibly) and see if tightening the "packing nut" that'll compress "packing washer" to see if it stops the leak.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Oct 31, 2022

# ? Oct 31, 2022 19:07

Teabag Dome Scandal: Mar 19, 2002

Corla Plankun posted:

Does anyone make a basic thermostat with a "circulation mode" (i.e. it kicks on the fan [no heat/ac] if it has been a while since the system ran)?

"Winter" is here in Texas and there's no reason to heat or cool anything for a while, and I'd like to stop having to manually janitor turning the fan on and off. I am very forgetful and it probably shouldn't run for hours at a time.

I am disgusted by the idea of wifi or bluetooth in a thermostat and I don't really care about it being programmable very much. But my googling for a non-"wireless enabled" thermostat with air circulation was fruitless.

I don't know what you consider basic but this Honeywell T6 I just got has a fan circulation mode in addition to auto or on. The instructions say circulation mode turns it on about 35% of the time

# ? Oct 31, 2022 20:35

Opopanax: Aug 8, 2007; I HEX YE!!!

We have this case but don't know the combo. It's currently opened, is there some way to figure it out or reset it while it's unlocked? I pulled the liner back to get a look at the other side but it looks like the mechanism is all sealed up

# ? Nov 1, 2022 04:32

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Opopanax posted:

We have this case but don't know the combo. It's currently opened, is there some way to figure it out or reset it while it's unlocked? I pulled the liner back to get a look at the other side but it looks like the mechanism is all sealed up

Some of them set a code while open, by setting the new code you want and pushing in towards the dials instead of out. Otherwise, I'd trip the lock with a paperclip and then try one of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUZFf610NAg&t=90s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyzgC_P2OwI&t=85s

# ? Nov 1, 2022 05:12

L0cke17: Nov 29, 2013

Opopanax posted:

We have this case but don't know the combo. It's currently opened, is there some way to figure it out or reset it while it's unlocked? I pulled the liner back to get a look at the other side but it looks like the mechanism is all sealed up

You just need a little metal or plastic shim and you can decode it pretty easily.

Example here:
https://youtu.be/uaiQBWgY8r8

You can buy fancy tools for it, or use a thin strip off a soda bottle cut to shape. Those kinda locks are TRASHY and should be super easy to decode.

Fancy tool:
https://covertinstruments.com/collections/bypass-tools/products/decoder-bundle

# ? Nov 1, 2022 05:13

Opopanax: Aug 8, 2007; I HEX YE!!!

Ok cool. I'm busy for the next couple days but you guys have given me some fun stuff to study here

# ? Nov 1, 2022 06:39

C-Euro: Mar 20, 2010; Soiled Meat

We have a sliding door on our downstairs bathroom, and there's a little plastic guide screwed into the floor to keep it properly aligned. The alignment tab broke off and I need to replace it, does this little guy have a technical name so I know what to ask for at the hardware store?

Door properly aligned, there used to be a raised piece where my finger is-

Door swinging out because said guide is missing, glue doesn't really keep the broken tab in place (would be on the left end there)

# ? Nov 1, 2022 21:32

H110Hawk: Dec 28, 2006

We finally finished our october project of renaming the threads for halloween!

# ? Nov 1, 2022 21:43

Leperflesh: May 17, 2007

C-Euro posted:

We have a sliding door on our downstairs bathroom, and there's a little plastic guide screwed into the floor to keep it properly aligned. The alignment tab broke off and I need to replace it, does this little guy have a technical name so I know what to ask for at the hardware store?

Door properly aligned, there used to be a raised piece where my finger is-

Door swinging out because said guide is missing, glue doesn't really keep the broken tab in place (would be on the left end there)

https://www.homedepot.com/s/closet%20door%20guide?NCNI-5
and
https://www.homedepot.com/s/sliding%20door%20guide?NCNI-5

# ? Nov 1, 2022 21:51

Adbot: ADBOT LOVES YOU

# ? Jun 7, 2024 06:10

alnilam: Nov 10, 2009

alnilam posted:

Home depot delivery contractors recently came and put in our new washing machine. There is now a leak there did not used to be. It's coming from the hot water shutoff knob:

That sits above the actual hookup. Some green corrosion on the hookup below makes me think the leak is not actually new but perhaps used to be smaller?

I can stop the leak by shutting the valve. I checked if that screw is tight enough and it seems pretty tight. How can i get in there and fix the leak? It's a slow drip but enough to deposit some pretty bad puddles over time and it's not a drained basement floor or anything so it's really not acceptable.

For anyone invested in this thrilling saga, turns out yeah i just had to remove the retaining screw, the knob handle, and twist the chrome sleeve off, and the nuts were right there, no wall cutting required. Turning off the water upstream didn't even turn out to be necessary though I did and maintain that it's probably a good idea. Just tightened it a quarter turn and no more drip. Thanks!

alnilam fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 1, 2022

# ? Nov 1, 2022 21:57

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