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Democratic Pirate
Feb 17, 2010

Motronic posted:

When have I ever said something like that?

I've absolutely said that contractors aren't interested in small jobs because they're making bank on larger ones. And no reasonable amount of money is going to change that/get them to prioritize your several-hour-long to several-day-long job.

It’s a one day job at most, so I’ll lightly vent about it on the internet but in real life I’m telling my wife This Is How Things Are.

Our guy has been reliable in the past and is blaming this week’s rain (after months of drought) on delaying his prior project, which is valid. It’s more believable than “my tools were stolen,” at least.

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Sloppy
Apr 25, 2003

Imagination will often carry us to worlds that never were. But without it we go nowhere.

Democratic Pirate posted:

It’s a one day job at most, so I’ll lightly vent about it on the internet but in real life I’m telling my wife This Is How Things Are.

Our guy has been reliable in the past and is blaming this week’s rain (after months of drought) on delaying his prior project, which is valid. It’s more believable than “my tools were stolen,” at least.

Your area must lack methheads. I've known contractors that had to sleep on the jobsite in their truck with a shotgun because the thieving was so out of control.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

hypnophant posted:

It bothers me very much that people in this and similar threads still recommend speed queens or talk about how great theirs is after being shown that article.

to be fair, the wirecutter article admits they didn’t test any recent Speed Queen models, just the one that is “largely unchanged since the early 1980s.”

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



Man_of_Teflon posted:

to be fair, the wirecutter article admits they didn’t test any recent Speed Queen models, just the one that is “largely unchanged since the early 1980s.”

But that’s the selling point. That they’re simple machines without the ineffective new technology that is prone to breaking.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Upgrade posted:

But that’s the selling point. That they’re simple machines without the ineffective new technology that is prone to breaking.

That's only a selling point to people who don't care if their clothes get destroyed and have free water. The point here is that it's ancient, inefficient, bad for your clothes technology being sold at a premium price.

I don't know if you ever had to spend any amount of time relying on a laundromat to wash your clothes but poo poo sucks and the machines are awful. This is basically "let's put one of these in my house minus the cash box".

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



Motronic posted:

That's only a selling point to people who don't care if their clothes get destroyed and have free water. The point here is that it's ancient, inefficient, bad for your clothes technology being sold at a premium price.

I don't know if you ever had to spend any amount of time relying on a laundromat to wash your clothes but poo poo sucks and the machines are awful. This is basically "let's put one of these in my house minus the cash box".

I agree - which is why I’m not a SpeedQueen fan. I’ve had too many bad experiences with them from renting.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Motronic posted:

I don't know if you ever had to spend any amount of time relying on a laundromat to wash your clothes but poo poo sucks and the machines are awful. This is basically "let's put one of these in my house minus the cash box".

And this is the perfect red flag to keep anybody who's used those away, so thanks! :cheers:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Johnny Truant posted:

And this is the perfect red flag to keep anybody who's used those away, so thanks! :cheers:

This is extremely BWM so I'll expect it gets reposted in the appropriate thread, but they do work great for washing horse blankets. The barn I worked at had one and I put on in the barn I had (which to be clear I have previously mention I made money on boarding horses, not a money sink of my own poo poo). Of course the one I put in was literally an old laundromat one that I found used and put a new belt on after figuring out how to bypass the quarter slots.

But for actual human clothing? Lol, they're just made to wash as fast as possible regardless of water or power usage because volume and turnover is how laundromats need to make money.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Maytag makes something similar to the SpeedQueen and it's less expensive https://www.maytag.com/washers-and-dryers/washers/top-load-washers/p.3.5-cu.-ft.-commercial-grade-residential-agitator-washer.mvwp575gw.html


I'm team frontloader though. I live somewhere water is somewhat expensive and we often have droughts. I find they're much gentler on my clothes and get them cleaner as well. I've had a set of Samsung Flex machines for coming up on 5 years now and have had no issues with them. The tiny top washer was amazing during covid for washing masks, and it's great for washing small loads like soccer uniforms when you don't need to do an entire load of laundry at that moment in time. I don't recommend Samsung appliances to other people, but I've had good luck with these.

marjorie
May 4, 2014

hypnophant posted:

the old-school top loaders with the big agitator in the middle of the drum definitely beat the poo poo out of clothes. Supposedly the newer top-loaders with a low fin-style agitator are gentler and closer to front-loader style, so if you really dislike front-loaders for whatever reason, those may be an ok alternative.

I had a Maytag Bravos XL that was a top loader with an agitator that I guess was the low fin style (it still stuck up out of the middle, but like half the height of the old ones), and it did a great job. Never had an uneven load issue, washed my clothes thoroughly but didn't wear them out, never had a smell issue.

My new house has a traditional top load\agitator washer from I'm guessing the late nineties\early naughts and from the first wash I could tell how much harder it was on my clothes. But it technically works, and I'm going to have trouble fitting a modern washer through the tiny doorway\stairwell to the basement, so I'm holding off on replacing it for now.

hattersmad
Feb 21, 2015

In this style, 10/6
We’ve got the Bravos XL top loader as well. I don’t have any complaints about it from a clothes washing perspective, but I have to replace the bearings about every 5 years (and replace the driveshaft and tub seal while I’m at it). I keep doing it because I tell myself it’s cheaper to keep fixing it than to buy a new set.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Motronic posted:

But for actual human clothing? Lol, they're just made to wash as fast as possible regardless of water or power usage because volume and turnover is how laundromats need to make money.

I mean, if you have heavy duty work clothes that are bullet proof but get hosed up and filthy, then this is the washer for you.

Wouldn't use it on my t shirts or office clothing, though.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DaveSauce posted:

I mean, if you have heavy duty work clothes that are bullet proof but get hosed up and filthy, then this is the washer for you.

Wouldn't use it on my t shirts or office clothing, though.

Yes, see horse blanket post above.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
Took a shower in another bathroom in our house for the first time and looked out the window and saw this which I've never noticed before:



We're waiting for a contractor to schedule our roof lift and lay along with redoing some flashing, slipped tiles, etc., and I was going to bring this up to them as well and I imagine it would be a quick fix (or done naturally as part of the lift and lay. It's the busy season apparently so it might be a couple months, but we're also in southern california so rain isn't exactly a common occurence, and in pretty small amounts when it does. That being said, I would still rather do something than nothing while we wait, could I just plop down some/any plastic over that section and throw some tape on to keep it in place? Or am I missing anything on why that wouldn't work or I shouldn't?

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Motronic posted:

. The barn I worked at

Jesus how many different jobs have you had lol

e for content: iirc when we were looking at new washer and dryer this time last year, the speed queens had relatively small capacity compared to many of the other top loaders availability out there.

brugroffil fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Nov 5, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

brugroffil posted:

Jesus how many different jobs have you had lol

That was like, high school or just after "there's no landscaping to do and not enough snow to plow" kinda stuff. And yeah, I've had way too many jobs.

I was doing fill in work at a diesel repair shop one year and a bagel shop (so much cleaner and easier) in the winter at that time IIRC. I dunno how this works now but if you wanted to make enough you had to hustle some jobs and I did that.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

hattersmad posted:

We’ve got the Bravos XL top loader as well. I don’t have any complaints about it from a clothes washing perspective, but I have to replace the bearings about every 5 years (and replace the driveshaft and tub seal while I’m at it). I keep doing it because I tell myself it’s cheaper to keep fixing it than to buy a new set.

I have a Bravos XL that came with my unit as well. I loving hate it because everything on it keeps breaking, but I think it's because it's suffered through two previous owners who didn't do an ounce of maintenance while they lived here.

For all I know it's a great washer, just beaten to the breaking point.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

PageMaster posted:

Took a shower in another bathroom in our house for the first time and looked out the window and saw this which I've never noticed before:



We're waiting for a contractor to schedule our roof lift and lay along with redoing some flashing, slipped tiles, etc., and I was going to bring this up to them as well and I imagine it would be a quick fix (or done naturally as part of the lift and lay. It's the busy season apparently so it might be a couple months, but we're also in southern california so rain isn't exactly a common occurence, and in pretty small amounts when it does. That being said, I would still rather do something than nothing while we wait, could I just plop down some/any plastic over that section and throw some tape on to keep it in place? Or am I missing anything on why that wouldn't work or I shouldn't?

While you're up there doing a temporary fix, you can probably just slide the cap tiles into place correctly and be done with it

For socal yeah you could duct tape some trash bag on to it and that would likely hold for 8 months to a year, or just cover the gap with gorilla tape entirely. You live in the desert so probably not a huge issue but you should get it checked out eventually

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



PageMaster posted:

Took a shower in another bathroom in our house for the first time and looked out the window and saw this which I've never noticed before:


...
That being said, I would still rather do something than nothing while we wait, could I just plop down some/any plastic over that section and throw some tape on to keep it in place? Or am I missing anything on why that wouldn't work or I shouldn't?

If you can reach them with a fall risk, then reshuffle them until they're properly overlapped. The empty nail holes tell me that the are entirely unsecured and could probably benefit from a few dots of adhesive caulk to prevent they crawling around during heat/cool cycles.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

Hadlock posted:

While you're up there doing a temporary fix, you can probably just slide the cap tiles into place correctly and be done with it

For socal yeah you could duct tape some trash bag on to it and that would likely hold for 8 months to a year, or just cover the gap with gorilla tape entirely. You live in the desert so probably not a huge issue but you should get it checked out eventually

PainterofCrap posted:

If you can reach them with a fall risk, then reshuffle them until they're properly overlapped. The empty nail holes tell me that the are entirely unsecured and could probably benefit from a few dots of adhesive caulk to prevent they crawling around during heat/cool cycles.

Oh wow I didn't even consider the possibility that they were just sitting there and not secured (or that they're simple enough to just shuffle around). I have short sightedness so I just assumed the dots were nails and that they're obviously nailed in. They're just above the first floor door into the garage so nothing I couldn't reach with a ladder, so I can see, but definitely more to talk about with the roofing contractor to secure them in some way. Thanks!

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Nov 5, 2022

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Cool, add replacing part of the subfloor to the list, finally got up underneath to check.



Basic plan is something like this:

Tear down brick wall
Demo all rotten wood out to where it can be sistered
Replace subfloor, span to the next joist, installing the top layer overlapping another foot
Re-frame the wall/window.
Install new OSB to replace known rotted areas.
Address any other exposed sheathing rot.
Re-caulk all sheathing seams.
Plumber on site to install exterior faucet.
Address electrical wiring/add outlet/speaker wiring boxes.
Masonry back on site to rebuild wall.
Deal with drywall/patching/painting.

Drink heavily over spending $8500+ on a problem that could have prevented by a $10 tube of caulk.

devmd01 fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Nov 5, 2022

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

PageMaster posted:

Oh wow I didn't even consider the possibility that they were just sitting there and not secured (or that they're simple enough to just shuffle around). I have short sightedness so I just assumed the dots were nails and that they're obviously nailed in. They're just above the first floor door into the garage so nothing I couldn't reach with a ladder, so I can see, but definitely more to talk about with the roofing contractor to secure them in some way. Thanks!

edit: Haven't gone up yet but did check it from around a bunch of different windows and this specific area looks like crap and might need more than just a lift and lay, Not sure if this is what normal tile roofs look like after a while, but I don't even want to think about what the second floor roof that I can't see looks like.





Contractor DID walk on the roof for our initial quote and quote includes allotment for broken tile (which I think is just more standard for any lift and lay) so I'm assuming that things like this would be taken care of anyways, and they did say they saw some slipped tiles so this shouldn't be a huge surprise. I'm so glad I don't live in Florida because I don't know if I could handle worrying about water issues in a place that actually has real water problems...

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Nov 5, 2022

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

PageMaster posted:

Took a shower in another bathroom in our house for the first time and looked out the window and saw this which I've never noticed before:



We're waiting for a contractor to schedule our roof lift and lay along with redoing some flashing, slipped tiles, etc., and I was going to bring this up to them as well and I imagine it would be a quick fix (or done naturally as part of the lift and lay. It's the busy season apparently so it might be a couple months, but we're also in southern california so rain isn't exactly a common occurence, and in pretty small amounts when it does. That being said, I would still rather do something than nothing while we wait, could I just plop down some/any plastic over that section and throw some tape on to keep it in place? Or am I missing anything on why that wouldn't work or I shouldn't?

They look so evenly spaced that I think one is missing. Perhaps it was stuck by a falling branch or hail or a softball or something? If you had a spare or can find one you could slip it in.

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



How does one crosswalk between bulbs to single fixture lumens? I have a ceiling fan with 4 45 watt bulb equivalents.. for a single LED fixture instead, what am I looking for in lumens?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Upgrade posted:

How does one crosswalk between bulbs to single fixture lumens? I have a ceiling fan with 4 45 watt bulb equivalents.. for a single LED fixture instead, what am I looking for in lumens?

I cannot figure out what word was supposed to be there instead of crosswalk.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



StormDrain posted:

I cannot figure out what word was supposed to be there instead of crosswalk.

Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

StormDrain posted:

I cannot figure out what word was supposed to be there instead of crosswalk.

I can't either, but I'm like 99% certain he's trying to say that he wants to get rid of a 4x45W ceiling fan and replace it with equivalent lighting with a single bulb. Maybe he meant to say "cross over" and it mobile-corrected to crosswalk?

To answer the question I think you asked, though: Depends on how much work you want to do. :D

You could just do 4X whatever the lumen count on the box is for the type of lightbulb you have now and then round down. You could just look at other single-bulb light sources in your house and see what feels comfortable, then check that bulb's brightness on the box. Or, you could go buy a light-meter and see what it reports up close to the fan and grab the closest you can find. :shrug:

Or, do it the way I did and guess. :haw:

Sundae fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Nov 6, 2022

Abyss
Oct 29, 2011
Crosswalk makes sense to me in that context, but you'd have to have some background for mapping metadata fields to other fields (i.e. crosswalking them) to get it. But Sundae answered the question.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Thufir posted:

I have the like, six years ago versions of those LGs, no complaints

Mine are eight years old and I finally had the washer start throwing OE errors the other day. The drain pump itself was still good, replacing the drain hose (which had all sorts of gross buildup in it) helped some, but I think the thing that finally made it stop making GBS threads errors at me was sending compressed air backwards down the hose that the water level sensor uses and unclogging whatever poo poo was in it.

The worst part about working in it is that it's like the worst of the late '90s PC cases with razor-sharp edges to slice the gently caress out of your arm, but conceptually it's all pretty easy to grasp and they have been relatively unchanged over the years so there's no shortage of guides/videos on how to do any given repair.

QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

Upgrade posted:

How does one crosswalk between bulbs to single fixture lumens? I have a ceiling fan with 4 45 watt bulb equivalents.. for a single LED fixture instead, what am I looking for in lumens?

A quick google search suggests that those bulbs are around 460 lumens (this will vary by bulb, but it's a reasonable starting point)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Classic-45-Watt-EQ-LED-R20-Warm-White-Dimmable-Flood-Light-Bulb-3-Pack/1000444063
A lot of bulbs actually have the lumens printed right on them, you could try checking that

1800 and 2000 lumens appear to be common design points, and there are a bunch of models spanning the range between those values as well. Personally I'd shoot for the upper range (2000) while focusing more on picking a fixture that I like
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=led+light+fixture&refinement=4294549107,4294564299&view=List

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



Abyss posted:

Crosswalk makes sense to me in that context, but you'd have to have some background for mapping metadata fields to other fields (i.e. crosswalking them) to get it. But Sundae answered the question.

Hah got it in one. I didn’t realize this wasn’t a well known term!

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



QuarkJets posted:

A quick google search suggests that those bulbs are around 460 lumens (this will vary by bulb, but it's a reasonable starting point)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Classic-45-Watt-EQ-LED-R20-Warm-White-Dimmable-Flood-Light-Bulb-3-Pack/1000444063
A lot of bulbs actually have the lumens printed right on them, you could try checking that

1800 and 2000 lumens appear to be common design points, and there are a bunch of models spanning the range between those values as well. Personally I'd shoot for the upper range (2000) while focusing more on picking a fixture that I like
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=led+light+fixture&refinement=4294549107,4294564299&view=List

Thank you!

meanolmrcloud
Apr 5, 2004

rock out with your stock out

GE dishwasher chat: ours died out of the blue and was still under warranty, so we had a guy come out. He confirmed it wasn’t dead-dead, but was throwing error codes and he was able to reset it by disconnecting a wire assembly, waiting, reconnecting it and pushing the start button. Since then it has died a few more times, so I leave the bottom grill off for easy access to that wire. Every month or so it’ll randomly die and I’ll have to disconnect that wire, and then do some combination of plugging it back in, while opening and closing the door, while furiously pushing the start button. Researching says it’s a logic board somewhere that I could replace but I’m not gonna gently caress around with that

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Ok what’s decent for a keypad lever lock that doesn’t require/replace a deadbolt? The “1” button fell off my Schlage a while ago (I posted about this) and I’ve literally spent 3 months trying to get them to replace it under warranty. They require pictures and keep insisting the JPEGs I’m attaching to my emails from several different devices are unviewable on their end. They are likely lying and will never fulfill the warranty.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Nov 6, 2022

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

meanolmrcloud posted:

GE dishwasher chat: ours died out of the blue and was still under warranty, so we had a guy come out. He confirmed it wasn’t dead-dead, but was throwing error codes and he was able to reset it by disconnecting a wire assembly, waiting, reconnecting it and pushing the start button. Since then it has died a few more times, so I leave the bottom grill off for easy access to that wire. Every month or so it’ll randomly die and I’ll have to disconnect that wire, and then do some combination of plugging it back in, while opening and closing the door, while furiously pushing the start button. Researching says it’s a logic board somewhere that I could replace but I’m not gonna gently caress around with that

When it goes out of warranty you might consider adding a momentary switch and mount it on the panel, assuming it's a low voltage wire (could be 120v? :iiam:)

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I mean if it is in warranty get the logic board switched while you don’t pay for it?

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Tiny Timbs posted:

Ok what’s decent for a keypad lever lock that doesn’t require/replace a deadbolt? The “1” button fell off my Schlage a while ago (I posted about this) and I’ve literally spent 3 months trying to get them to replace it under warranty. They require pictures and keep insisting the JPEGs I’m attaching to my emails from several different devices are unviewable on their end. They are likely lying and will never fulfill the warranty.

Host on imgur, send them a link to the pic?

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I offered to :(

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


DaveSauce posted:

About to pull the trigger on a new washer/dryer. I know "speedqueen" but blah. Wirecutter recommends the LG WM4000H and matching dryer DLEX4000. I haven't seen any reasons not to buy, and they're not Samsung so that's good. Open to recommendations if anyone has any, but I'm reasonably convinced so far that these will be just fine.

The main questions I have are: what do I want to do before delivery? Is there any reason I can't re-use the existing supply hoses, or is it best practice to replace those? And the dryer cord needs to be bought separate still these days, right?
I have those (bought from Costco) and they're awesome. However, the manual covers only a few of the cycles and you have to download an online manual to see what they do. ?!?! And they do their own EPA ratfucking: the dry cycle doesn't actually dry to completion, and you will always have to run an extra timed cycle afterward.

When I bought my washer/dryer, the delivery people brought hoses and cords as part of the installation. Check with whoever you're buying from to see if they do the same.

Critical #1 thing to do before delivery: Hit whatever halls, doorways, and stairs the delivery people will walk through with a tape measure. Measure the narrowest part of each in all dimensions. Be sure the drat thing will fit. You may have things like shelves or piles of stuff that were put in after your current washer and dryer that block the way.

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Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with



Grimey Drawer
I missed Washer chat, but I've been deep into this rabbit hole and coming out the other end of it, I came to conclusion that the Maytag mvwp575gw is the washer to get. It's no nonsense. It's repairable. It uses higher quality components then you'd find it basically every modern washer.

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