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Nice glad it was easy to tighten your packing nuts and you didn't need to replace the whole valve.
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Nov 2, 2022 01:40
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Leperflesh posted:https://www.homedepot.com/s/closet%20door%20guide?NCNI-5 Occam's Razor strikes again. Thanks.
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Nov 2, 2022 03:17
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Sigh. So my wife dropped a glass salt shaker on our electric stove top and apparently it was enough to gouge the glass and cause two large cracks. Now we are maybe just a few more months away from starting the design process of a kitchen reno, and maybe a year away from gutting it all and getting a new matching set of appliances. The cherry on top is the replacement glass top is discontinued and apparently completely unavailable without a comparable new part. Does anyone ever use some type of adhesive or temp-resistant caulk that can be used to stop the glass from being further damaged in this type of scenario?
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Nov 4, 2022 18:00
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tore out the lovely carpet in one of my downstairs bedrooms. tack board was hammered into the concrete which will be fun get out. The walls don't go all the way down to the floor, and there's about 1-2 inches of space. Do I flash this before I put down the underlayment? Is that a thing? Liek surely there's a reason there's so many goddamn centipedes below ground basement, btw.
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Nov 4, 2022 20:39
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FizFashizzle posted:tore out the lovely carpet in one of my downstairs bedrooms. tack board was hammered into the concrete which will be fun get out. The walls don't go all the way down to the floor, and there's about 1-2 inches of space. Do I flash this before I put down the underlayment? Is that a thing? Liek surely there's a reason there's so many goddamn centipedes Wear eye pro. It's super splintery dry wood holding sharp spikes vertical and high pressure set nails. Gloves help tremendously. Tack strips ramset into the concrete is standard. Wreck off all the wood and many will come out. Otherwise get a claw hammer and the rest will pull out fine. Rock it out away from the wall with the head of the hammer on the ground. Swing with your arm and it will lock the claws on except when you miss. If you have trouble add a cheater bar, and for the really not loving around stuck just use a cutoff wheel.
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Nov 4, 2022 22:05
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H110Hawk posted:Wear eye pro. It's super splintery dry wood holding sharp spikes vertical and high pressure set nails. Gloves help tremendously. ~18 inch pry bar will do it too. You *will* take chunks of concrete out sometimes, be prepared to patch that. I caulked where the sill plate met the concrete, which will definitely help.
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Nov 5, 2022 04:47
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The downspout near my garage used to drain directly into a pipe that I guess went right to the sewer. That pipe was filled with concrete long ago and the PO used one of those black PVC ribbed extenders so it wasn't just draining into the driveway and entrance. This wasn't ideal because it either goes across the driveway and blocks cars from going in, or goes over the path to the front door, posing a tripping hazard. We bought one of those vinyl condoms that has holes over the end so the water at least is a little further away from the house but it still sucks. Are there any good solutions besides installing a new downspout somewhere else?
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Nov 5, 2022 14:08
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devicenull posted:~18 inch pry bar will do it too. You *will* take chunks of concrete out sometimes, be prepared to patch that Good call out. Basically any claw end that you can "roll" on the concrete to gain leverage is key. Don't use the straight side. Yeah the first one that shoots off into space will probably also explode out a little bit of concrete as well.
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Nov 5, 2022 18:16
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I think I've answered my own question with google but if I'm needing to replace a wobbling probably rotted underground gate fence post (where the gate attached and swings from), I need to use concrete and not any of the expanding foam products right? Looks like the expanding foam stuff is for non-structural but if there is a good one for setting a gate post feel free to chime in. The setting speed on the foam would be nice if it would work.
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Nov 5, 2022 18:55
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tangy yet delightful posted:I think I've answered my own question with google but if I'm needing to replace a wobbling probably rotted underground gate fence post (where the gate attached and swings from), I need to use concrete and not any of the expanding foam products right? Looks like the expanding foam stuff is for non-structural but if there is a good one for setting a gate post feel free to chime in. The setting speed on the foam would be nice if it would work.
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Nov 5, 2022 19:10
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Are there any good solutions besides installing a new downspout somewhere else? I'm always a fan of discharging into a buried tight line system that discharges somewhere suitable, but depending on the topography and hardscape that may be difficult.
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Nov 5, 2022 19:14
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What's the easiest way of cutting, I think it's called a rabbit joint, on a 2x2? Not the end, the length. Like this: 
GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Nov 5, 2022 |
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Nov 5, 2022 20:39
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What's the easiest way of cutting, I think it's called a rabbit joint, on a 2x2? Not the end, the length. Table Saw. A router table or router+fence could do it too but it would take 3x longer and make 40x the mess.
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Nov 5, 2022 22:44
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Xenix posted:I'm always a fan of discharging into a buried tight line system that discharges somewhere suitable, but depending on the topography and hardscape that may be difficult. Sounds more pricey than we're able to put in at the moment too. Saving up to redo all the pipes ($3k  ) and then maybe a look at the electric. And eventually a kitchen reno.Y'know.
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Nov 6, 2022 00:14
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Slugworth posted:Quikrete sets plenty fast, and is easy to use. Place your post, pour a bit of water in, (follow bag instructions), then dump in the concrete. Lol. Just mix it in a wheelbarrow so you can ensure you don't have dry clumps and it's the correct consistency. Dumping water in the hole and expecting it to not immediately seep directly into the soil is a surefire way to gently caress up the ratio. And it's not going to mix worth a gently caress just trying to jab a stick into it. Follow the directions on the bag, or on quikrete's website. https://www.quikrete.com/athome/video-mixing-concrete-hand.asp I had to mix about a dozen, maybe 15 bags last month to set a solar panel base in naturally compacted sand. If you think the "fill hole with water" method works fine, I challenge you to try it in sandy soil. E: like this kinda sand. 
CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Nov 6, 2022 |
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Nov 6, 2022 02:16
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The fast setting bags literally do tell you to just dump it the hole and pour water over it, though. No mixing required. It's really lovely looking concrete at the end, so I don't know good it is, but it sets.
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Nov 6, 2022 02:56
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Adding water after mix is in the hole would seem more logical than water first, then mix. Unless your soil is basically clay. If it's a fence post, whatever, use mix in hole, pretty sure that's why they sell it. Not for something that needs to hold weight. E: I realize op was talking about a fence post now, I'm an rear end. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 6, 2022 |
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Nov 6, 2022 03:13
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What's the easiest way of cutting, I think it's called a rabbit joint, on a 2x2? Not the end, the length. Easiest would be to glue, nail, or screw a second strip of wood on instead of cutting into the first strip. Otherwise like Kaiser Schnitzel says. Also I've seen that joint called a rabbet or sometimes a rebate.
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Nov 6, 2022 05:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Easiest would be to glue, nail, or screw a second strip of wood on instead of cutting into the first strip. Otherwise like Kaiser Schnitzel says. I'm tasked with replicating this as close as I can so I'll need to come up with some sort of wood push stick, then
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Nov 6, 2022 07:15
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What's the easiest way of cutting, I think it's called a rabbit joint, on a 2x2? Not the end, the length. A dado blade or a router with a table ?
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Nov 6, 2022 13:47
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Adding water after mix is in the hole would seem more logical than water first, then mix. Unless your soil is basically clay.
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Nov 6, 2022 14:02
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Dado stack or router table is much safer but I have done it with trim router and edge guide. You just have make multiple passes and move your clamps between each pass.
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Nov 6, 2022 14:34
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With a fence post that I assume isn't meant to keep in or out critical things to the point that the rating of the concrete is going to matter over the durability of a 4x4... Do whatever you want. If you put some water in the hole and are left with a damp hole then put the bag in first. Or mix it in a wheelbarrow. Or do some combo. Or get really fancy and put a sprayer head on the hose set to mist and use it to keep dust down and a bucket to measure and dump water as you go. My technique has been to wet it down a bit but nothing crazy, dump in a bag, add water, mix with a shovel, slam post into goop, add second bag(s) and water around it wiggling the post a bit to get it to settle. Bag, water, bag, water. If you have a second person they are on water duty so it goes in as you dump for optimal... Approach to beer:30. Keeping an eye on levelness as you go.
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Nov 6, 2022 15:25
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Quicrete? For fence posts? What, you didn't have all goddamn day to tamp properly?
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Nov 6, 2022 17:11
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I just applied some water-based sealer to the grout in my bathroom. the grout is sanded, and the tile is porcelain. I finished about an hour ago. I noticed a few spots where the grout was clearly darker than the rest, and realized these were areas that had still been wet when I applied the sealer (not surprisingly they are the areas right next to the shower). It says it takes six hours to dry, 24 hours full cure. I just scrubbed those spots with a warm water/soap mix to try to remove the sealer, as I don't want that moisture to stay trapped under there. then i'll reseal later. is this the best plan? or maybe warm water and vinegar
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Nov 6, 2022 |
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Nov 6, 2022 20:06
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Actually, I do have all day. It's quite nice.
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Nov 6, 2022 20:07
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tangy yet delightful posted:Feel like I'd need a pair with a very needle tip, any recs? That's probably the best option for what you can get your hands on quickly. You aren't going to need to put a lot of force on the screw to extract it, you just need to get a bite at all. If you don't mind waiting for Crazy Uncle Jeff to bring you some, I'm a big fan of the Neji-saurus screw extracting pliers. They have a set of serrations that run parallel to the jaw with a slight curve, so they will bite into the end of a snapped-off screw or rounded screw head. The only downside to them is that the jaws are a bit on the soft side - it's pretty easy to wear them out. They come in a few different sizes, I think the one I linked is the bigger one.
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Nov 6, 2022 20:26
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H110Hawk posted:With a fence post that I assume isn't meant to keep in or out critical things to the point that the rating of the concrete is going to matter over the durability of a 4x4... Do whatever you want. If you put some water in the hole and are left with a damp hole then put the bag in first. Or mix it in a wheelbarrow. Or do some combo. You can literally dump it in the hole dry and cover it with soil for places where it rains. Not just for corner fence posts. For actual structural posts. This is how half of the pole barns on the east coast were built. Nothing else is required unless you're trying to get to an engineered load in a specified timeframe, in which case we also wouldn't be talking about dumping concrete into dirt holes, even batch made premix.
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Nov 7, 2022 00:12
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Concrete is fantastic at compressive strength, which is what you need for post holes. So even if you do a bad job of mixing the concrete, it'll still be more than strong enough to transfer the post's load into the dirt around it.
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Nov 7, 2022 00:48
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I know that some soil is way more permeable than others, like the fuckin river rock and cobble that I was trying to drill through most of last week (gently caress you Brantford Ontario). But I feel like dumping water in the hole followed by cement mix would probably be the better of the two options, since, in theory the cement mix would get more fully hydrated compared to dumping in the mix and covering with water. But maybe there's more to it than that.
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Nov 7, 2022 00:49
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If you want to feel better about it you can take piece of 2x4 or something and tamp the dry cement powder into the hole a few inches at a time. Then you have a something with a strength and stiffness roughly the same as the surrounding soil, and when it eventually gets access to moisture it will hydrate and set up even stronger.
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Nov 7, 2022 00:51
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Motronic posted:You can literally dump it in the hole dry and cover it with soil for places where it rains. Yeah yeah yeah I live in socal and have to wet down the hole. I just don't like ramming in posts dry.
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Nov 7, 2022 02:24
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Slugworth posted:For what it's worth, the quikrete instructions say water first. I don't claim any knowledge of the science of concrete mixing, I just go by manufacturer instructions. I have ripped the top off of the bag & lowered the whole shebang down into the hole, then added water & the post. This is in sand, in southern New Jersey. Lamp post has been firm 16-years now H110Hawk posted:With a fence post that I assume isn't meant to keep in or out critical things to the point that the rating of the concrete is going to matter over the durability of a 4x4... Do whatever you want. If you put some water in the hole and are left with a damp hole then put the bag in first. Or mix it in a wheelbarrow. Or do some combo. Dammit, Hawk PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Nov 7, 2022 |
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Nov 7, 2022 03:26
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It's sort of hard to overstate how forgiving a bag of quicrete is to the end product.
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Nov 7, 2022 03:41
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I'm thinking I'll swirl 2 tablespoons of quickrete in my mouth with some water and then spit it into the hole. Then the next day I'll attach the gate to the post. Thanks for all the good ideas on concrete mixing!
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Nov 7, 2022 05:57
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tangy yet delightful posted:I'm thinking I'll swirl 2 tablespoons of quickrete in my mouth with some water and then spit it into the hole. Then the next day I'll attach the gate to the post. Thanks for all the good ideas on concrete mixing! It will be neither tangy or delightful, just so you know
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Nov 7, 2022 06:04
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Just use bags of bentonite chips. Seal the poo poo out of that fucker. Might heave a bit though.
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Nov 7, 2022 13:57
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I'd like to hang up a curtain rod to replace some blinds in my kitchen. After removing the blinds (which were screwed into the window frame), I grabbed a stud finder to check for studs, but noticed the AC detector light on it showing up sometimes. But only sometimes. It's pretty inconsistent, and frankly is really weird with detecting the studs around the window too (which I understand is became there are probably extra beams around the frame). Like, I'll wave it around an area, and the AC light will show up, but I'll do another pass and it'll be completely dark. Should I take this as a warning not to drill into the wall there, or is there any reason why this would be happening? I actually needed to by a new stud finder for this - my old one worked for a bit, then simply started lighting up the moment I brought it anywhere near a wall.
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Nov 7, 2022 16:24
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tangy yet delightful posted:I'm thinking I'll swirl 2 tablespoons of quickrete in my mouth with some water and then spit it into the hole. Then the next day I'll attach the gate to the post. Thanks for all the good ideas on concrete mixing! This is basically what the plumbers did when they poured half a bag of quickcrete on top of the pipes for some reason: 
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Nov 7, 2022 16:27
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 12:14 |
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I have some A/C flashing on the roof of my condo building (all owned units, no renting) where the coolant and electrical lines come into the ceiling of my unit that seems to be leaking rain water into our place. (lovely picture of the seal/flashing at the bottom.) Roofer says HVAC needs to deal with it, HVAC company says they won’t touch it because they have to drain the coolant lines to replace it and my neighbor’s A/C (for which their coolant line runs through here along with my own) is very old and uses the now-banned Freon/R22. So the HVAC people basically say the best bet is a stop-gap measure of caulking over it all until the other unit’s A/C gets replaced, at which point the flashing can get all re-done as part of the new unit install. But for some reason the HVAC company wouldn’t do said caulking and said a roofer should do it, and the roofer seems to be ghosting me (I’m guessing because it’s admittedly a small bullshit job). So maybe I should just try to do it myself, so… 1. is that a stupid idea? 2. What kind of caulking product would I want to use? The HVAC people said to caulk it or use something I’m not familiar with called “mastik”(sp? Google wasn’t making it quite clear, I’m seeing a glue for bike tubes, or some 3M foil tape) 3. Any other tips on what to pursue here, or to try to not gently caress up, if none of the above seems to scan; getting pros to do this is taking for ever and I’d love to stop the water damage we’re currently accumulating every time it rains. 
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Nov 7, 2022 19:43
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