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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fourwood posted:

Roofer says HVAC needs to deal with it

Correct.

fourwood posted:

HVAC company says they won’t touch it because they have to drain the coolant lines to replace it and my neighbor’s A/C (for which their coolant line runs through here along with my own) is very old and uses the now-banned Freon/R22.

Refrigerant. And R22 is not banned. It's manufacture is banned but it is still available and this is not your problem because it's not your AC. It's your neighbor's problem because it's gotta get done so your roof isn't leaking anymore. It's time to talk to your neighbor so they can sort out their own poo poo, even if that means replacing/relocating their unit and line set.

fourwood posted:

But for some reason the HVAC company wouldn’t do said caulking and said a roofer should do it, and the roofer seems to be ghosting me (I’m guessing because it’s admittedly a small bullshit job).

While that might be one of the reasons, the most important reason is that both of them are smart enough to know not to pick up the liability for a half rear end repair that's not going to last long. It needs to be repaired properly.

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Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Motronic posted:


While that might be one of the reasons, the most important reason is that both of them are smart enough to know not to pick up the liability for a half rear end repair that's not going to last long. It needs to be repaired properly.

Yeah and on that note, absolutely do not touch it yourself unless you want to turn something that isn't your problem into something that potentially costs you thousands when the liability gets shunted on to you.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Opopanax posted:

Yeah and on that note, absolutely do not touch it yourself unless you want to turn something that isn't your problem into something that potentially costs you thousands when the liability gets shunted on to you.

This sounds like a thing your condo should deal with - isn't roofing/exterior poo poo like this usually their problem?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

devicenull posted:

This sounds like a thing your condo should deal with - isn't roofing/exterior poo poo like this usually their problem?

If its a townhouse style condo then maybe not. But its an apartment building type then yeah probably.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



devicenull posted:

This sounds like a thing your condo should deal with - isn't roofing/exterior poo poo like this usually their problem?

HAHAHHHHAHHAHAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAH

(deep breath)



Sorry. I've dealt with a ton of condo management (when they exist) all up & down the east coast & Chicago.

DO NOT TOUCH IT. You will be a target.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
You know what would solve it the second time it rains?

Quikrete.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

H110Hawk posted:

You know what would solve it the second time it rains?

Quikrete.

I appreciate the added layer of this joke that it wouldn't even work, because concrete is permeable.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
It worked good enough to seal the roof over my boss's office when it leaked during some heavy rain.

The roof was later retarred.

fourwood
Sep 9, 2001

Damn I'll bring them to their knees.
I’m working the neighbor angle for sure don’t worry. But presuming that that’s unsuccessful, I still need the water to stop leaking. I’m halfway to just going up there and duct taping a tarp around the whole thing. I get that anything else I can do is a short-term :airquote:solution, but I’m also very interested in exploring my options that can be done 100% under my control, whether that’s still hiring a roofer to seal it with something or just trying to DIY a short-term fix myself.

So, from a technical standpoint, why shouldn’t I just go slather it in some flex seal or something if my neighbor won’t spring for a new unit? Or what “liability” am I concerned with here?

devicenull posted:

This sounds like a thing your condo should deal with - isn't roofing/exterior poo poo like this usually their problem?
My understanding is basically that if it’s a flaw in the actual roofing, it’s an HOA issue; since it’s related to just specific unit mechanicals, it’s not HOA’s problem, it’s my problem.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

fourwood posted:

So, from a technical standpoint, why shouldn’t I just go slather it in some flex seal or something if my neighbor won’t spring for a new unit? Or what “liability” am I concerned with here?

"The roof is leaking near where you did an unauthorized repair, here's the bill for replacing the entire roof (because gently caress you) as well as the bill for all the water damage (oh and we needed to replace everything with the highest end materials, again because gently caress you)

Consider the fact that two pros wouldn't touch it, and start your conversation with the HOA.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Pretty much, the liability is anything they can possibly stick you with since you're an unlicensed person doing unauthorized work up there. If you absolutely must do it yourself you could at least get it in writing from the condo board or whoever saying you can, but you're a lot better off not touching it at all.
You could maybe try talking to your insurance people, that might go somewhere

bort
Mar 13, 2003

:mods:

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!
What do masons normally do to hide steelwork spanning across a base of cinder blocks? I will be doing another pizza oven and the typical thing is to have a an angle iron across the cinder blocks in front over the opening where spare logs and spiders typically go. I wanted to take a shot at hiding the iron this time.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Like this?



I don't think that looks bad or needs concealing. If the metal looks nice and was cut cleanly, I think it would be really sharp, especially contrasted against the right color of bricks. Copper would cost a pretty penny and I don't know if it's suitable for the high heat but that's the premium choice for roof flashing n stuff.

To hide it, you could conceal it w a concrete cap type thing that would sit in front of the layer of bricks/angle iron. form a solid concrete block to span the length of the opening, like 4" x 4" x 30" or whatever, with 1-2 pieces of #3 rebar running through to keep it from breaking. Use extra Portland cement for better finish. Alternatively, thread two pieces of rebar through the holes in the bricks and skip the angle iron entirely.

E: something like this, but sized in proportion to the bricks.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 12:00 on Nov 8, 2022

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Could also build an arch that supports itself in compression. That’s how they did it before they had structural steel.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fourwood posted:

My understanding is basically that if it’s a flaw in the actual roofing, it’s an HOA issue; since it’s related to just specific unit mechanicals, it’s not HOA’s problem, it’s my problem.

Your understanding is pretty ridiculous. It's involves two different units to begin with.

Have you even talked to the HOA or did you start right on out taking this all on yourself? You need to talk to the HOA, your neighbor, and probably a lawyer. Because this is a likely scenario:

devicenull posted:

"The roof is leaking near where you did an unauthorized repair, here's the bill for replacing the entire roof (because gently caress you) as well as the bill for all the water damage (oh and we needed to replace everything with the highest end materials, again because gently caress you)

Consider the fact that two pros wouldn't touch it, and start your conversation with the HOA.

Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!
No that would be like the bottom half where spare wood is stored. The top half would be dome oven with a cylindrical front, and heavy as gently caress.

quote:

To hide it, you could conceal it w a concrete cap type thing that would sit in front of the layer of bricks/angle iron. form a solid concrete block to span the length of the opening, like 4" x 4" x 30" or whatever, with 1-2 pieces of #3 rebar running through to keep it from breaking. Use extra Portland cement for better finish. Alternatively, thread two pieces of rebar through the holes in the bricks and skip the angle iron entirely.
I could see it with the iron perhaps. I've not been too impressed with people who tried to use rebar for the spans in the builds with the weight I've seen (the rebar has sagged!). I just thought there were some kind of specialty blocks for this kind of thing. Like, for window spans in concrete block houses or something. I just am not that advanced with concrete block.

withak posted:

Could also build an arch that supports itself in compression. That’s how they did it before they had structural steel.
I'd consider it if I were building out a larger structure but the oven is not going to be supported in too much of a larger structure. So arching out the base opening without the buttressing gives me a risk of the whole thing just falling apart. The other factor I didn't mention is I was thinking of having a rear opening too because the profile of the oven is too large to access all the space from the front. So I'd have to put an iron across the back too and I'd have even less wall support from the blocks.

Edit: Ahh I think the term I needed was "lintel" and they have precast lintel blocks these days that can do it all in one hit without an iron:
https://shop.kuhlman-corp.com/precast-concrete-lintel-4-wide-x-8-high-48-long/p731/

Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Nov 8, 2022

Plank Walker
Aug 11, 2005
Hot water went out and a plumber came and checked the hot water tank. Replaced the relief valve on it which fixed the main issue, but in doing so, they also loosened up some sediment which resulted in our kitchen sink faucet getting a blockage somewhere. A quick google search led me to attempt to flush it out by disconnecting one of the hot/cold inputs and opening the tap to try and force whatever was in there through. This did not work but he came back later in the week to fix it.

This is theoretical now because it's fixed, but what are my options should something like this happen again? I've had similar things happen in the other faucets in the house in the past and they mostly self resolve, but I've only got like 2 total sinks and a shower so any of them going out is kind of a major pain waiting on someone to come and service them if it can be fixed easily.

Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!
Ehh while I'm here:

Plank Walker posted:

Hot water went out and a plumber came and checked the hot water tank. Replaced the relief valve on it which fixed the main issue, but in doing so, they also loosened up some sediment which resulted in our kitchen sink faucet getting a blockage somewhere. A quick google search led me to attempt to flush it out by disconnecting one of the hot/cold inputs and opening the tap to try and force whatever was in there through. This did not work but he came back later in the week to fix it.

This is theoretical now because it's fixed, but what are my options should something like this happen again? I've had similar things happen in the other faucets in the house in the past and they mostly self resolve, but I've only got like 2 total sinks and a shower so any of them going out is kind of a major pain waiting on someone to come and service them if it can be fixed easily.

Last time I had something like this, the faucet aerator caught a bunch of crap. It had to be pulled out and cleaned. I then got paranoid about a shower tap nearby, twisted off the head, ran that a bit, and then thoroughly cleaned it out. I think I also used some CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) remover since I had gone that far. Our water there was hard as hell.

Plank Walker
Aug 11, 2005

Rocko Bonaparte posted:

Ehh while I'm here:

Last time I had something like this, the faucet aerator caught a bunch of crap. It had to be pulled out and cleaned. I then got paranoid about a shower tap nearby, twisted off the head, ran that a bit, and then thoroughly cleaned it out. I think I also used some CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) remover since I had gone that far. Our water there was hard as hell.

I don't think it was the aerator (unless there was one deeper in the system than at the head) since I removed the whole head from the hose and the flow was still low.

Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!

Plank Walker posted:

I don't think it was the aerator (unless there was one deeper in the system than at the head) since I removed the whole head from the hose and the flow was still low.

There wouldn't be another aerator deeper per-se but:
1. There's the cartridge where hot and cold meet and that does clog with poo poo too.
2. There might be some little screens in the hoses where the faucets connect to the taps that trap solids. It's some deluxe thing.

Before getting into this, this is usually where you discover your hot/cold shutoffs are stuck open so you probably want to check that you have the stuff to close the main to the house.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Also! Occasionally flushing your hot water heater is a usually ignored maintenance task that people should do to help remove accumulated sediment.

Here is a how-to I just googled
https://www.landmarkhw.com/resources/plumbing/how-to-flush-sediment-out-of-a-water-heater/2/279

you get the idea, basically turn off the water, turn off the heat & let it cool, drain, you can flush it at this point if you want by turning the water back on or doing multiple cycles. Then refill & turn the heater back on and you're set.

FizFashizzle
Mar 30, 2005







devicenull posted:

I caulked where the sill plate met the concrete, which will definitely help.

Just right along the edge? there is about a half inch deep, half inch long space between the paneling and the concrete. Should I put anything there? Previous owner just covered that up with the baseboard.

And yay, wasn't too bad a job.



def gonna need to patch a couple places.



No idea what to do with this door to the crawl space. Current one doesn't fit...at all.





I bleached the popcorn ceiling. Gonna repaint it probably in the next couple days. Also sweet AC supply guys. Just kinda...goes.



Anyway since laying down laminate is relatively idiot proof I'm just using this room to like...learn how to do things. Please tell me I do not want to teach myself how to install drywall.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

FizFashizzle posted:

Please tell me I do not want to teach myself how to install drywall.

Who are we to stand between you and the pursuit of knowledge?

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
I mean, currently you can pay a lot of money for someone to do a mediocre job, or you can learn how and do it for free. And if you keep doing it, you'll probably be better than most you could easily hire.

Yeah. 😐

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FizFashizzle posted:



Anyway since laying down laminate is relatively idiot proof I'm just using this room to like...learn how to do things. Please tell me I do not want to teach myself how to install drywall.

From the looks of that picture whoever put that ceiling up was teaching themselves exactly that in real time on your house. Surely you'll do a better job by the simple fact that it's your house.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
How does one tell how thick their hardwood floor product is without actually pulling up a piece of it?
Do I just drill in to it in an inconspicuous spot and wait to feel cement? Its an apartment type condo, with concrete slab floors.

I seem to recall seeing real hardwood flooring in the past that looked like it was 3/4-1" thick, but my stuff is probably Laminate, or whatever the particle board+wood grain veneer is, which in the admittedly few examples I've seen seems to be quite a bit thinner.

The reason I ask is because I'm a lazy gently caress thats still trying to decide of I should replace the floors myself or pay someone else to do it. As I've never done such a project before, it seems intimidating and beyond my skills and I worry that I'll buy a bunch of new flooring and I'll get something the wrong size (thickness) and poo poo will totally get hosed up because I have some underlay that I can't use with the new stuff because it'll sit too high and the doors will need to be shaved at the bottoms to actually work and so I don't use the underlay but then the flooring doesn't sit right, or rattles or or or or or.................. and so on.


Yeah, I've got this doomsday scenario in my head, I'm sure its a project that I can accomplish myself albeit much more slowly than a pro or even an experienced DIYer. But I guess I need some guidance lest my project wind up in a certain thread here.

fourwood
Sep 9, 2001

Damn I'll bring them to their knees.

Motronic posted:

Your understanding is pretty ridiculous. It's involves two different units to begin with.

Have you even talked to the HOA or did you start right on out taking this all on yourself? You need to talk to the HOA, your neighbor, and probably a lawyer. Because this is a likely scenario:
Go touch some grass, my dude. Your total lack of ability to talk to other people as if you aren’t their dad is really something!

devicenull posted:

"The roof is leaking near where you did an unauthorized repair, here's the bill for replacing the entire roof (because gently caress you) as well as the bill for all the water damage (oh and we needed to replace everything with the highest end materials, again because gently caress you)

Consider the fact that two pros wouldn't touch it, and start your conversation with the HOA.
I mean… it’s already leaking, and the HOA said it’s not their problem, so… isn’t that already my situation? And currently the “correct” fix hinges on my neighbor being convinced to spend a lot of money to fix something that for them is not broken. So I’d love to take them out of the equation.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fourwood posted:

Go touch some grass, my dude. Your total lack of ability to talk to other people as if you aren’t their dad is really something!

You're asking for advice and doubling down on being a helpless victim. Best of luck from someone who not only touches grass but has the actual skillsets required to solve your problem.

The bottom line is when you come here asking for help in the way you are it's pretty obvious you need a kick in the rear end about needing to either deal with the fact that you need to have some uncomfortable conversations and be persistent or hire someone to do that on your behalf.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Nov 9, 2022

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

fourwood posted:

Go touch some grass, my dude. Your total lack of ability to talk to other people as if you aren’t their dad is really something!

I mean… it’s already leaking, and the HOA said it’s not their problem, so… isn’t that already my situation? And currently the “correct” fix hinges on my neighbor being convinced to spend a lot of money to fix something that for them is not broken. So I’d love to take them out of the equation.

Brusque but correct. You need in writing that it's not their problem. Roof penetrations for mechanical fixtures is likely on the hoa - especially since it's shared. Basically you need to get serious about talking to them in writing about what is and is not their responsibility.

What it's likely to be is some hell scenario where the penetrations are their responsibility and the piping is the individual owners. In the process of fixing this I would try to make it two different holes.

You're toying with like $40k in damages here unfortunately. Everyone needs to get together and agree in writing on a course of action.

Xenix
Feb 21, 2003

fourwood posted:

Go touch some grass, my dude. Your total lack of ability to talk to other people as if you aren’t their dad is really something!

I mean… it’s already leaking, and the HOA said it’s not their problem, so… isn’t that already my situation? And currently the “correct” fix hinges on my neighbor being convinced to spend a lot of money to fix something that for them is not broken. So I’d love to take them out of the equation.

What the board member, who is almost certainly on the board to keep dues low and the chance at an assessment even lower, told you and who the CC&Rs say is responsible may be two different things. You should probably read the CC&Rs carefully to see who is responsible in this situation. If it's not clear, remember this is a legal document prepared by a lawyer and you may need your own to advocate for you.

Where I live there are typically two types of multifamily living arrangements. This may vary by location. With condos you basically own the space from the paint or drywall in and the subfloor up. The HOA owns the rest and is responsible for it. With townhomes you own your lot, with everything built on it. The party walls sit on the lot line. In both of these arrangements you seem like you shouldn't be responsible for water intrusion into your unit. In the condo situation, the HOA owns and is responsible for the roof, and in the townhome situation your neighbor has an HVAC unit on your property and it's loving your poo poo up.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Do we have a legal thread we can link this guy for when he fixes it and the hoa sues him for tens of thousands of dollars

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



fourwood posted:

Go touch some grass, my dude. Your total lack of ability to talk to other people as if you aren’t their dad is really something!

I mean… it’s already leaking, and the HOA said it’s not their problem, so… isn’t that already my situation? And currently the “correct” fix hinges on my neighbor being convinced to spend a lot of money to fix something that for them is not broken. So I’d love to take them out of the equation.

Pull out your by-laws and read the section that defines what is a unit-owner's unit boundaries, and what is considered a common element.

Hallways, lobbies, the exterior and the roof are all common elements. The HOA is required to maintain and repair them.

Carve this into stone: The HOA will always, ALWAYS, take every opportunity to shirk responsibility for anything & everything.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Nov 9, 2022

fourwood
Sep 9, 2001

Damn I'll bring them to their knees.

Motronic posted:

You're asking for advice
This forum would be a better place if you were actually good at providing any!

H110Hawk posted:

Everyone needs to get together and agree in writing on a course of action.
This seems to basically be where it’s heading, which is good and all but increases the odds dramatically that none of this is resolved before the roof is a foot deep in snow.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

fourwood posted:

This forum would be a better place if you were actually good at providing any!

This seems to basically be where it’s heading, which is good and all but increases the odds dramatically that none of this is resolved before the roof is a foot deep in snow.

So time is of the essence. You've read your cc&r's right? If this is the hoa's problem the hole is only getting deeper for everyone. Put them on notice, in writing, and move on. If their negligence causes you to suffer a loss then PainterofCrap will show up. And I guess, paint your crap. Who knows.

Please note that based on his posts here he is going to paint a dumptruck of laughing emojis on your roof.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

H110Hawk posted:


Please note that based on his posts here he is going to paint a dumptruck of laughing emojis on your roof.

Beats the guy here in Milwaukee that lives near the airport and painted "Welcome To Cleveland" on his. 🤷

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

fourwood posted:

This forum would be a better place if you were actually good at providing any!

I mean I love to give motronic poo poo as much as the next guy, but he's right here. You're loving around with things you do NOT understand here.

Advice: take your HOA documents, deed, etc. and bring it to a real estate attorney with HOA experience.

Your only chance at rectifying the situation here is a lawyer. You NEED to understand what is and is not your legal responsibility. Because if you gently caress with something that is NOT your legal responsibility, you will be 100% responsible for the damages.

Similarly, you have an opportunity to get your unit repaired at someone else's cost. Maybe. Depends on what the HOA docs say.

A lawyer will probably cost a few hundred bucks to review your HOA docs, but it'll be worth it so that you have a full legal understanding of what they mean going forward.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fourwood posted:

This forum would be a better place if you were actually good at providing any!

I provided the correct advice. You're just upset and/or embarrassed that you started out by asking the wrong question I suppose.

It would be more useful to not double down on this if you want to actually solve the problem you came here to ask about.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Motronic 100% does not have great people skills but he does provide good and accurate advice so we've just learned to put up with it in exchange for the info!

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Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


PainterofCrap posted:

Carve this into stone: The HOA will always, ALWAYS, take every opportunity to shirk responsibility for anything & everything.

I will say that the HOA of a place I sublet did a fantastic job of handling the time bees built a hive in my kitchen vent and I had so many bees in my house that I had to live somewhere else for a week.

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