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Golden-i
Sep 18, 2006

One big, stumpy family
Something that some folks here might find interesting - While I was messing around with figuring out a new post-processing workflow I ended up also seeing how much of a difference image calibration makes. I was reworking my integration/color calibration/noise reduction process and decided to skip my calibration process at first (which is unchanged) so I could get right to figuring out the new stuff.

Here's two images I came up with: the Elephant's Trunk Nebula, first uncalibrated (30x300sec lights):



The second is the exact same post-processing workflow, but with calibration frames (5x Dark, 20x Flat, 60x Bias):


Specs: Redcat51, ASI294MC Pro, L-eXtreme filter, EQ6R-Pro mount, captured on ASIAIR.

Seems like I won't be skipping calibration any time soon. There's still that really annoying CCD flare on the top right, even my dark frames weren't enough to prevent that. Any advice on dealing with that? Do I just need more dark frames? Or a better camera (I've got my eye on an ASI2600MM that won't have this issue, whenever I can afford it).

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Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





Wow, that's a really impressive difference. Thanks for sharing. Guess I better start learning how to do calibration. :)

I got some new gear and have been working through how to put it all together. Hoping to get it all set up soon.

Dmitri-9
Nov 30, 2004

There's something really sexy about Scrooge McDuck. I love Uncle Scrooge.
Had a productive night of stargazing. Took an astrophoto that I am not too embarrassed to post, saw a meteorite, and saw the Andromeda Galaxy with binoculars.



Canon 7D Mark II 70mm lens
45 minute integration using 30 second exposures 1250 ISO and 15 darks
iOptron SkyGuider Pro
used GIMP to handle the levels and subtract some green

Raikyn
Feb 22, 2011

Golden-i posted:

Something that some folks here might find interesting - While I was messing around with figuring out a new post-processing workflow I ended up also seeing how much of a difference image calibration makes. I was reworking my integration/color calibration/noise reduction process and decided to skip my calibration process at first (which is unchanged) so I could get right to figuring out the new stuff.

Here's two images I came up with: the Elephant's Trunk Nebula, first uncalibrated (30x300sec lights):



The second is the exact same post-processing workflow, but with calibration frames (5x Dark, 20x Flat, 60x Bias):


Specs: Redcat51, ASI294MC Pro, L-eXtreme filter, EQ6R-Pro mount, captured on ASIAIR.

Seems like I won't be skipping calibration any time soon. There's still that really annoying CCD flare on the top right, even my dark frames weren't enough to prevent that. Any advice on dealing with that? Do I just need more dark frames? Or a better camera (I've got my eye on an ASI2600MM that won't have this issue, whenever I can afford it).

I've the same camera and darks fix any amp glow I have. I just made a darks library one afternoon of various exposure times and gains. I did about 30 darks(or at least 30 min) for each setting I use. So I've darks for 125 gain (30,60,120) and 200 gain(15,30,60,120,180) all at 0ºC

One of my last ones , Cat's Paw and Lobster Nebulas
About 1hr40min with 60sec exposures with the Askar FRA300

Golden-i
Sep 18, 2006

One big, stumpy family

Raikyn posted:

I've the same camera and darks fix any amp glow I have. I just made a darks library one afternoon of various exposure times and gains. I did about 30 darks(or at least 30 min) for each setting I use. So I've darks for 125 gain (30,60,120) and 200 gain(15,30,60,120,180) all at 0ºC

One of my last ones , Cat's Paw and Lobster Nebulas
About 1hr40min with 60sec exposures with the Askar FRA300


Nice shot there!

And that's a really good idea, so most likely 5x darks isn't enough to correct a bad enough amp glow like I've got. Next time I plan to go out shooting and the weather turns crap, I'll spend the night setting up a darks library. Thanks!

Golden-i
Sep 18, 2006

One big, stumpy family
This may be a dumb question, but I'm having a hard time finding any info on this - I'm shopping around for a mono camera (probably going to get the ZWO ASI2600MM) and am looking into filters/EFWs. Specifically, 1.25" vs 2" filters. Is there any benefit to going with 2" filters over 1.25", given that the smaller lenses seem to be quite a bit cheaper across the board?

simble
May 11, 2004

You want the filter size that will cover the sensor frustum completely at the distance that the filter sits from the sensor. A 31mm (1.25”) filter is probably too close to the 28.3mm sensor diagonal to cover it. Also filters tend to introduce reflections and other oddities at their edges. For sensors at that size, 36mm filters are more appropriate. 2” (50mm) filters would only be a good idea if you think you’re likely to upgrade to a full frame sensor like the 6200 with a diagonal of 43.3mm.

Golden-i
Sep 18, 2006

One big, stumpy family

simble posted:

You want the filter size that will cover the sensor frustum completely at the distance that the filter sits from the sensor. A 31mm (1.25”) filter is probably too close to the 28.3mm sensor diagonal to cover it. Also filters tend to introduce reflections and other oddities at their edges. For sensors at that size, 36mm filters are more appropriate. 2” (50mm) filters would only be a good idea if you think you’re likely to upgrade to a full frame sensor like the 6200 with a diagonal of 43.3mm.

Thanks! That's really helpful. I'll figure out if I want to go for 36mm or if it's worth investing in the full 2"... those get pricey fast.

Raikyn
Feb 22, 2011

Nice eclipse night.
Cloudy but patchy leading up it. Cleared up a bit about an hour before totality, then cloud came back about 3/4 of the way through the total eclipse period.

So many eclipse pics on facebook haha

Here is mine

Blood Moon by Marc, on Flickr

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

I really wanted the track to go all the way out of frame, but clouds developing on the horizon and dawn interfered (that's why the last two are so blurry, I kinda wanted to omit them but it threw everything off balance). Maybe next time.


lunar eclipse over the wilson hall by Seth Graham, on Flickr

A lot of composites like this are bullshit so my goal was to make it as authentic as possible. Tried to keep the same exposure for the entire night to really get a feel for how dark the moon gets. I did have to bump the ISO at maximum because it got a lot darker than I expected, but I adjusted those downwards in editing to get things back in line (I would have been fine not changing anything).

Base Emitter
Apr 1, 2012

?
It's going to clear up here tonight. Welp.

Raikyn
Feb 22, 2011

xzzy posted:

I really wanted the track to go all the way out of frame, but clouds developing on the horizon and dawn interfered (that's why the last two are so blurry, I kinda wanted to omit them but it threw everything off balance). Maybe next time.


lunar eclipse over the wilson hall by Seth Graham, on Flickr

A lot of composites like this are bullshit so my goal was to make it as authentic as possible. Tried to keep the same exposure for the entire night to really get a feel for how dark the moon gets. I did have to bump the ISO at maximum because it got a lot darker than I expected, but I adjusted those downwards in editing to get things back in line (I would have been fine not changing anything).

Thats really cool , I like that.
I was thinking of doing a wide angle composition, but too much cloud

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





Y'all always post some incredible photos. Thanks for sharing.

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

For the last year I've been shooting fuji with samyang 135, mostly untracked in my backyard. Polaris is completely obscured by my or a neighbors house. I have a star adventurer tracker and it is fine for travel, but useless at home (can't polar align traditionally). I'm ready to drop a bit of money and upgrade.

I'd like to spend some end of year mad money on something I can use in the backyard and travel. Work keeps me on the road 100-120 days a year, sometimes to some really interesting, dark locations.

I'm a bit overwhelmed when I look for what options are available. It seems like what I'm looking for is a touch past entry-level but still pretty basic. I could use some advice cutting through marketing BS and "best thing ever" youtube reviews.

I'd like reasonable portability (survive offroading in the back of truck with a bunch of work tools, so fits in a case), ability to platesolve so I can use it at home. I'm fine with my fuji shooting through a samyang 135 (or wide for milky way) because I travel with those anyway. I dont see buying a new scope or dedicated camera this year. Maybe 2023.

I do travel with a heavy-duty survey tripod (should manage a smaller mount ok) and a pretty good toughbook so I'm not opposed to a laptop-based guiding system. But less complications would be better. After a 12-16 hr field day, I know I wont bother fighting cables and connectivity issues for very long. Get the kinks worked out at home, fine. But for travel streamlined workflow is a must have. If that's unrealistic I'll stick to Milky Way photography and a small tracker for travel, rethink a setup for home.

The skywatcher gti looks good for the travel setup but wouldn't work at home. Or am I overthinking it and adding a small guidecam and pc would eliminate the requirement to see polaris for PA? Just put an L bracket on my camera, get a cheap guidecam and scope attached, and run that? Thats probably under $1k. But that would probably be near the weight limit of the gti and any eventual glass upgrades will render it obsolete.

Triple the price (quadruple?) and i could get something like the zwo am5 with a guide cam and asiair. But is that overkill? Seems like it. But maybe thats the box I'm in for what I want vs. whats required. And it would upgrade well.

The benro polaris looks like they went outside the box and jumped the ladder a few rungs for my camera-style photography, but I can't believe it is really ready for primetime. I'm worried it will be a $1300, unsupported paperweight in a year. But I see them inspiring other makers for small go-to systems.

Apologies for the wall of text.

Raikyn
Feb 22, 2011

NebulaPhotos did a quick review/comparison between the gti and the benro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fj3carj27ag

Basically both seemed to be good as a portable setup, but the gti can go a bit further as it can be computer controlled so can do the whole setup(platesolve/guiding etc.)

Also there are software solutions for polar alignment where you don't need to see the poles, which use platesolving, which should help out for your setup at home.

Base Emitter
Apr 1, 2012

?
The regular ASIAir polar alignment feature wants to be pointed approximately at the celestial pole, but they have an experimental all-sky polar alignment algorithm buried in a menus (I haven't tried it). Both should work with any supported goto mount/camera combo I think, I imagine if you used that and a supported goto mount you should be able to align at home.

I just got an AM5 and portability was part of the reason (in addition to being small for its weight capacity, you can avoid lugging around counterweights if your scope isn't too big). You definitely pay for the privilege, and it probably is overkill for a camera+lens. The ASIAir polar alignment stuff doesn't rely on being connected to just the AM5 though. It also take a little while to get due to supply chain and being an in-demand new thing, took about 5-6 weeks to get mine.

If you go ASIAir it supports lots of different mounts and DSLR cameras, but for astro cameras and other accessories it only supports ZWO products, you're semi locked in going that route. That includes guide cameras if you decide to do that. There is a new "mini" ASIAir that omits USB3 and Ethernet and is cheaper.

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

Cheers! Thank you both.

I just got a forgotten $600 Amazon credit from a rental car promo, so adding that to my mental calculus of "Well, if I buy X from amzn instead of Agena Astro/Adorama, I can spend a bit more" . None of these items are available there yet, but eventually a reseller will show up.

Liquid Chicken
Jan 25, 2005

GOOP
Just a FYI if you didn't already know, but Baader has put their Hyperions and Zoom eyepieces on sale - 20% off. Good deal if you don't have Tele Vue money.

So far it seems only the European vendors have this sale - Firs Light Optics, Teleskop-Express, etc., but Don Pensack of Eyepieces, Etc. says the sale is coming to the U.S. around Black Friday.

Sale is suppose to be good to end of the year. Unfortunately, the Morpheus eyepieces are not part of the sale for those of us with the fast ratio scopes. Still tempting for my 8SE.

edit: Just saw the email from Agena Astro - they have the sale now too. $119 for a Hyperion eyepiece is pretty decent if you focal ratio isn't too fast.

Liquid Chicken fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Nov 11, 2022

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.
Anyone able to tell me wtf is going on with my dark frames?

Here's a 3-minute frame:



That's what I'd expect to see, just some low level of random noise.

Here's a 5-minute frame:



What the hell is that? It doesn't look like amp glow, and whatever it is Deep Sky Stacker isn't effectively removing it so if I use dark frames with exposures that long, my tiff image looks like clouds were rolling in while I took it.


So that's why this photo didn't use dark frames:

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Phanatic posted:

Anyone able to tell me wtf is going on with my dark frames?

What the hell is that? It doesn't look like amp glow, and whatever it is Deep Sky Stacker isn't effectively removing it so if I use dark frames with exposures that long, my tiff image looks like clouds were rolling in while I took it.



Looks like a light leak. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/577027-light-leakage-while-taking-darks-1600mm-cool/ That dude has a similar concentric ring look.

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.
Yep, that sure looks like it. Now that it's dark out (and I put a jacket over the entire thing just in case), the longer darks are just fine. Thanks much.

Raikyn
Feb 22, 2011

pumped up for school posted:



The skywatcher gti looks good for the travel setup but wouldn't work at home. Or am I overthinking it and adding a small guidecam and pc would eliminate the requirement to see polaris for PA? Just put an L bracket on my camera, get a cheap guidecam and scope attached, and run that? Thats probably under $1k. But that would probably be near the weight limit of the gti and any eventual glass upgrades will render it obsolete.



Using fuji is going to hinder your options going forward a bit, I'm not sure there is any easy way to connect the fuji to most astro programs to capture/platesolve? But you can definately use a cheap guidescope/camera to platesolve and guide and use your camera normally if you had something like the gti mount.

Beccara
Feb 3, 2005
Alright screw it, ASi533MM Pro ordered i'm going cooled camera mono baby!

duodenum
Sep 18, 2005

<— jealous

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006
If my 8" dob came with kellners, how worthwhile is it to replace my 25mm with roughly the same focal length? I know I could get a better FoV (especially going to 2") but is there any other material benefit (like contrast)? I'm debating if I should rush to upgrade before I go camping and look for nebulae etc. So far I've just been concerned with showing my kids the planets, which they're familiar with from school/Magic School Bus.

Liquid Chicken
Jan 25, 2005

GOOP

PerniciousKnid posted:

If my 8" dob came with kellners, how worthwhile is it to replace my 25mm with roughly the same focal length? I know I could get a better FoV (especially going to 2") but is there any other material benefit (like contrast)? I'm debating if I should rush to upgrade before I go camping and look for nebulae etc. So far I've just been concerned with showing my kids the planets, which they're familiar with from school/Magic School Bus.

There can be better material benefits like better contrast, differences in eye relief, less visual aberrations like EFOB or SAEP (edge of field brightening / spherical aberration of the exit pupil (kidney beaning)). Some have better correction against coma and off-axis astigmatism at the wider AFOVs which is more important in faster ratio telescopes.

Also if you're looking for nebulas and you haven't yet - invest in a decent UHC filter. The Orion Ultrablock filter is decent one for a budget price. The Lumicon Gen 3 UHC is the one of the best but pricey. I would suggest to go for a 2" model. Your 1.25" to 2" adapter is probably threaded for 2" filters already unless you have one of those unthreaded ones from Sky-Watcher.

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006

Liquid Chicken posted:


Also if you're looking for nebulas and you haven't yet - invest in a decent UHC filter. The Orion Ultrablock filter is decent one for a budget price. The Lumicon Gen 3 UHC is the one of the best but pricey. I would suggest to go for a 2" model. Your 1.25" to 2" adapter is probably threaded for 2" filters already unless you have one of those unthreaded ones from Sky-Watcher.

That's interesting. My SkyWatcher 200P has threads on the adapter but I don't know if they're in the right place for filters or whatever. Also there's a 2" cylinder, no idea what that's for.

Liquid Chicken
Jan 25, 2005

GOOP

PerniciousKnid posted:

That's interesting. My SkyWatcher 200P has threads on the adapter but I don't know if they're in the right place for filters or whatever. Also there's a 2" cylinder, no idea what that's for.

Those aren't threads, but just baffles to prevent light scatter or something. I have the 250p Classic from Sky-Watcher and was confused about the "threads", but after an email exchange with Sky-Watcher I confirmed that they aren't really threads.
I've seen replaced that 1.25" to 2" adapter with one from Far Point which is unique in that it accepts 1.25" and 2" filters, but also has a stop inside it to prevent the eyepiece barrel from hitting the filter.

That 2" cylinder is your 2" eyepiece adapter.

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006

Liquid Chicken posted:

Those aren't threads, but just baffles to prevent light scatter or something.

I think I see what you mean but also the 1.25 adapter consists of two components that screw together (1.25 cylinder screwing into a 2" washer of sorts), which I thought might be relevant to filters.

Liquid Chicken
Jan 25, 2005

GOOP

PerniciousKnid posted:

I think I see what you mean but also the 1.25 adapter consists of two components that screw together (1.25 cylinder screwing into a 2" washer of sorts), which I thought might be relevant to filters.

The one part that can be removed from the 1.25" to 2" adapter is a T-ring adapter to be used for cameras.

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006

Liquid Chicken posted:

The one part that can be removed from the 1.25" to 2" adapter is a T-ring adapter to be used for cameras.

I didn't know I had a t ring adapter. I'm going on a real emotional rollercoaster tonight!

Golden-i
Sep 18, 2006

One big, stumpy family
New camera/efw/LRGB lenses ordered, thanks for the help with lenses ITT. I decided I didn't want to have to replace my lenses down the road, especially since I've already got 2" LPS and a 2" Ha lens I haven't even used yet... so I went with the ASI6200MM. I'll be posting results ITT as soon as the various part backorders are resolved and I actually get the gear - not holding my breath that it will be anytime soon.

The kit I got came with an OAG (it was several hundred $ cheaper to buy the kit with the OAG than getting the pieces separately without it) - does anyone ITT use an OAG instead of a guide scope? Just curious if there's any specific reason I'd want go with using the OAG instead of my usual guide scope setup, which hasn't given me any issues in the past.

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006
Does anyone sketch their observations? It feels like the thread is dominated by the photographers, I'd like to see what everyone else is seeing.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


PerniciousKnid posted:

Does anyone sketch their observations? It feels like the thread is dominated by the photographers, I'd like to see what everyone else is seeing.

I love the concept but I have the artistic ability of a potato. Some of the folks who sketch over at CN are incredibly gifted. Should anyone here sketch... :justpost:

Luna
May 31, 2001

A hand full of seeds and a mouthful of dirt


My wife has a couple of bigger telescopes but I am looking for a small one for her that she can grab on a whim and setup quickly. Any recommendations?

Liquid Chicken
Jan 25, 2005

GOOP

Luna posted:

My wife has a couple of bigger telescopes but I am looking for a small one for her that she can grab on a whim and setup quickly. Any recommendations?

Just for visual? Maybe one of the tabletop dobsonians.

I also noticed at Wal-mart the other day that they had the Celestron 70mm AZ LT refractors for $78. Might be fun for shits and giggles. The accessories probably suck, but easily swapped out if you already have better ones.


PerniciousKnid posted:

Does anyone sketch their observations? It feels like the thread is dominated by the photographers, I'd like to see what everyone else is seeing.

I'm 99% visual with only occasional snaps of the moon on special occasions. However, my hands suck at drawing. Like someone else said - check out the sketching sub-forum on Cloudy Nights.

simble
May 11, 2004

Andromeda Galaxy (M31)


4k

After 10 months, I finally got my scope back out. The weather over the summer was absolutely lousy. Clouds or thunderstorms almost every night. This was mostly just a trial run to make sure everything still works (including my brain when it comes to processing). Truthfully, M31 is a bit boring to me, but obviously its in a good spot this time of year. This is just 5 hours of total exposure. I don't think I'll be adding anything else to it.

This is the first time that I think I sort of successfully added Ha data to LRGB data and had it come out looking okay.

Next I'll probably do the M42 with the 2600 that I said I would do in January.

pre:
Target: 
  Andromeda Galaxy (M31)
Dates: 
  2022-11-23 - 2022-11-23
Coordinates:
  RA:  0h 42m 44s
  Dec: +41° 16′ 9″
  Rot: 45
Location:
  Desc:   Phoenix, AZ
  Bortle: 8/9
Scope: 
  WO GT81
Mount:
  Skywatcher EQ6R Pro
Lens: 
  WO Flat 6AIII 0.8x reducer
Filters:
  Chroma 36mm LRGB 
  Chroma 36mm Ha 3nm
Camera:
  ZWO ASI2600MM Pro
Subs:
  L     - 50x90s  (1h15m)
  R     - 32x90s  (48m)
  G     - 29x90s  (43m30s)
  B     - 32x90s  (48m)
  Ha    - 16x300s (1h20m)
  Total - 4h54m
Processing Notes:
  Standard LRGB processing
  Added Ha to red and blue channels

Raikyn
Feb 22, 2011

I did a 2 panel mosaic. One half was taken about a month ago. Then clouds happened.
The other half I did last night

Still trying to figure out processing, I guess a work in progress.

Anyway, the orion area

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


That looks really great! You guys ever print and hang any of your work? I don't have the gear for deep space photography, but I did get a pretty decent photo of the 2017 eclipse that I've got hanging up and it gets a lot of attention.

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DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Any suggestions for decent kid-friendly binoculars?

Oldest kiddo is 5 and she loves to go out and look at stars/planets, but hauling my 150mm netwonian out to the deck is a hassle. It's not huge, but it's awkward to shuffle through doorways and set up for 20 minutes of viewing.

So we're looking for something that we can whip out after dinner and do some quick viewing so I don't kill her interest.

I know it won't be quite the same, but it'll be better than just standing outside and looking around.

edit: I suppose it'd also be good on nights we do take the telescope out, so she can look at stuff while I'm futzing around or changing eye pieces.

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