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gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

Bud Manstrong posted:

I don’t know Seattle area trails very well, but I’d make sure you’re checking the rules for local trails. Forest Service non-motorized trails do not allow ebikes. I don’t think Tiger or Raging River allow ebikes either.

Almost none of the trail systems near Seattle allow ebikes - Duthie, Tiger, Grand Ridge, Raging River, BDOS, etc all say no ebikes - but enforcement is nonexistent. I am a dork who thinks following rules is usually good (and I don't own an ebike) but there are clearly a bunch of people out there who feel otherwise.

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mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

mexecan posted:

What are folks’ views on a solid mid travel bike? I’m considering moving from my short travel 29’er to something with a bit more suspension.

I’ve been riding an Ibis Ripley AF for the last two seasons. It’s a great bike for smooth single track but do feel very much underbiked with 120mm on some of the local trails, which trend towards rooty and rocky PNW jank.

I’d previously considered the Hightower but it looks as though Santa Cruz has not yet realized an aluminum version, which is my preference for cost and durability reasons.

Life update. Bought a Forbidden Druid and life is grand. Forbidden had a season end sale which made it an easy decision for me. At first I thought the high pivot design was truly hideous but it's growing on me. Arguably a nicer bike than I need but YOLO and it's a Vancouver Island company so happy to support them.

https://www.forbiddenbike.com/products/druid-xt-complete

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

The only part of the kit I'd be worried about mountain biking is the battery mount. That's something I'll need to be pretty careful with for mtb.

Very valid concern, which is why eMTB designs place the battery in the downtube. I bet you could come up with a custom clamp to secure a battery around the downtube, but it'd have to be very nice fabrication not to pinch the tube. I would mess with it in carbon and even with aluminum, is have to know how to do FEA.

quote:

I do product design and engineering for a living and its fun to use those skills for personal projects
I'm sure you'll come to the right design decision.

WHERE MY HAT IS AT
Jan 7, 2011

mexecan posted:

Life update. Bought a Forbidden Druid and life is grand. Forbidden had a season end sale which made it an easy decision for me. At first I thought the high pivot design was truly hideous but it's growing on me. Arguably a nicer bike than I need but YOLO and it's a Vancouver Island company so happy to support them.

https://www.forbiddenbike.com/products/druid-xt-complete

The druid is awesome and rips way harder than a 130mm travel bike has any right to; I spent a bit of time on a dreadnought as well this summer and it was like riding a cloud, high pivot is so neat. They've got a prototype DH bike that was running around at WC this summer, excited to see that when it comes out.

Edit: did you mullet it?

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

mexecan posted:

Life update. Bought a Forbidden Druid and life is grand. Forbidden had a season end sale which made it an easy decision for me. At first I thought the high pivot design was truly hideous but it's growing on me. Arguably a nicer bike than I need but YOLO and it's a Vancouver Island company so happy to support them.

https://www.forbiddenbike.com/products/druid-xt-complete

Serious question, with a high-pivot bike like that, do you have to be cognizant (no pun intended there) of clothing items being pulled into and/or mangled by the chain action more than on any 'regular' bike? Looks sweet!

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Season's almost over











mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

WHERE MY HAT IS AT posted:

The druid is awesome and rips way harder than a 130mm travel bike has any right to; I spent a bit of time on a dreadnought as well this summer and it was like riding a cloud, high pivot is so neat. They've got a prototype DH bike that was running around at WC this summer, excited to see that when it comes out.

Edit: did you mullet it?

Negative but possibly in the future? I'm eyeballing some We Are Ones for the spring.

Frozen Pizza Party posted:

Serious question, with a high-pivot bike like that, do you have to be cognizant (no pun intended there) of clothing items being pulled into and/or mangled by the chain action more than on any 'regular' bike? Looks sweet!

I don't think so? But most of my mountain bike gear is pretty fitted.

Dread Head
Aug 1, 2005

0-#01

mexecan posted:

Life update. Bought a Forbidden Druid and life is grand. Forbidden had a season end sale which made it an easy decision for me. At first I thought the high pivot design was truly hideous but it's growing on me. Arguably a nicer bike than I need but YOLO and it's a Vancouver Island company so happy to support them.

https://www.forbiddenbike.com/products/druid-xt-complete

Nice, riding in Cumbreland (where they are from) you see lots of them around. I kind of wish they may a 150mm version instead of having to jump up to the dread naught if you want more travel. Never rode one but they look good.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

mexecan posted:

I don't think so? But most of my mountain bike gear is pretty fitted.

Not me in the new Fox downcountry JNCOs

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
I've got an old Genesis Core 10 in my garage that I used to commute on when I was getting back into cycling as an adult and my commute had a lot of cobbles. It gets used 1-2 times a year, usually when a friend drags me out to the trails, but occasionally for a cross-tri or when I don't want to cycle all the way around the local hills. The frame is a size too big for me (because that's what I felt comfortable with at the time) which means I feel really stretched out on any sort of downhill. I've got the saddle quite high too so I don't blow my knees out on climbs but that makes it really hard to move my weight back.


Is there anything I can do to make this more rideable without just buying a new bike. I can't really justify the £1k+ that would cost for something I use at most twice a year, but I also feel like my current bike is a big part of why I'm riding offroad so rarely.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Scrapez posted:

Here's a probably asinine question from a someone new to mountain bikes and dropper posts.

Why don't they make dropper posts with linear actuators that allow up and down travel without having to use your body weight to lower them? A nifty electronic switch could be fitted to eliminate the need for a cable as well like electronic shifters and could be programmed to hit exact lowering/raising increments.

They make fast linear actuators these days and one that small would seemingly be fairly affordable. No doubt it would still be expensive but on race bikes and things where cost is no object I'm surprised such a thing doesn't exist.

Downside would be added weight potentially but not sure how much more a linear actuator would weigh than a normal dropper post with cable.

Anyway, there's probably a glaringly obvious reason this idea is dumb. What is it?

Edit: Oh.

https://wheelbased.com/2020/12/14/motorized-dropper-post-assembly-by-trek/?amp=1

Direct drive linear actuators are still heavy and you'd still need a locking mechanism.
Screw drivesself-lock (they can't be back-driven) but they're slower.
Both require quite a bit of energy, and matching control electronics.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Yeep posted:

I've got an old Genesis Core 10 in my garage that I used to commute on when I was getting back into cycling as an adult and my commute had a lot of cobbles. It gets used 1-2 times a year, usually when a friend drags me out to the trails, but occasionally for a cross-tri or when I don't want to cycle all the way around the local hills. The frame is a size too big for me (because that's what I felt comfortable with at the time) which means I feel really stretched out on any sort of downhill. I've got the saddle quite high too so I don't blow my knees out on climbs but that makes it really hard to move my weight back.


Is there anything I can do to make this more rideable without just buying a new bike. I can't really justify the £1k+ that would cost for something I use at most twice a year, but I also feel like my current bike is a big part of why I'm riding offroad so rarely.

Look into a dropper post or trading for a smaller bike?

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

Yeep posted:

I've got an old Genesis Core 10 in my garage that I used to commute on when I was getting back into cycling as an adult and my commute had a lot of cobbles. It gets used 1-2 times a year, usually when a friend drags me out to the trails, but occasionally for a cross-tri or when I don't want to cycle all the way around the local hills. The frame is a size too big for me (because that's what I felt comfortable with at the time) which means I feel really stretched out on any sort of downhill. I've got the saddle quite high too so I don't blow my knees out on climbs but that makes it really hard to move my weight back.


Is there anything I can do to make this more rideable without just buying a new bike. I can't really justify the £1k+ that would cost for something I use at most twice a year, but I also feel like my current bike is a big part of why I'm riding offroad so rarely.

You could definitely get a shorter stem, that'll help feeling less stretched out and will help the steering feel more direct at the same time. Also seconding looking into getting a cheaper dropper post, it will make your life so much nicer. Brand-X ones are very reliable and pretty cheap compared to others.

Edit: If you go for a shorter stem - check to see what diameter your bars are. They'll either be 31.8mm or 35mm, then get a stem for the appropriate diameter. As well as that, the general length of MTB stems nowadays range from 35mm to 50mm, I'd probably go straight to a 35mm length one.

Also don't forget to measure the internal diameter of your seattube to make sure you get the correct dropper.

Aphex- fucked around with this message at 12:00 on Nov 1, 2022

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

Aphex- posted:

You could definitely get a shorter stem, that'll help feeling less stretched out and will help the steering feel more direct at the same time. Also seconding looking into getting a cheaper dropper post, it will make your life so much nicer. Brand-X ones are very reliable and pretty cheap compared to others.

Edit: If you go for a shorter stem - check to see what diameter your bars are. They'll either be 31.8mm or 35mm, then get a stem for the appropriate diameter. As well as that, the general length of MTB stems nowadays range from 35mm to 50mm, I'd probably go straight to a 35mm length one.

Also don't forget to measure the internal diameter of your seattube to make sure you get the correct dropper.

The seat tube is 27.2mm which looks like it limits my dropper options quite a bit (at least 2nd hand, Brand-X make one that'll fit). I've not got any spare routing on the frame so presumably I'm just taping the cable along the top tube? Current stem looks to be 80mm with 35mm bars so dropping to 35mm should help a lot for cheap. Is the steerer tube going to be a standard diameter?

I'm trying not to think too much about potential drivetrain upgrades because at some point I'm just throwing good money after bad, but it looks like I could get Deore 1x11 or NX Eagle 1x12 on my 8 speed hub for £300ish, which is still cheaper than a new bike. Anything more and I'd be stuck trying to find affordable 26" wheels with a modern hub.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Going from an 80mm to 35mm stem is going to be an experience. I dunno about you but even going from 60 to 40 on my bike it feels way too twitchy for my liking. Probably depends on the width of your bars and all that. Steerer tube is usually standard 1 1/8" for most stems. I assume since you have a RS fork it'll be fine.

You want an external dropper and route the cable along the top tube. Brand X is good, I've had a couple of them. Take some measurements to see how much drop you can get. CRC had pretty good pics with measurements when I bought a couple of them previously.

I wouldn't bother messing with the drivetrain. At that point, buy a cheapish modern hard tail IMO so you get all the upgrades (wheel size, geometry, brakes, drivetrain, etc). But with how often you're riding that seems silly.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
Going shorter with narrow bars will definitely feel weird.

The only fit things that will make a difference are stem, bars, and a dropper to get the post out of the way. Drivetrain stuff really won’t matter to make the bike feel smaller.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Yeep posted:

Current stem looks to be 80mm with 35mm bars

Just going by the spec of the bike, I think it's quite unlikely that the bars are 35mm and not 31.8. I found a later year Core 10 and it has 31.8mm bars.
Are the bars and stem stock to the bike?

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

Just going by the spec of the bike, I think it's quite unlikely that the bars are 35mm and not 31.8. I found a later year Core 10 and it has 31.8mm bars.
Are the bars and stem stock to the bike?

You're right, I went out and properly measured it and it's 31.8 (and about 680 wide). I found a good deal on a second hand 35mm stem and matching 780mm bars though, so I'll see how I get on with that. CRC have the Brand-X dropper for £90 right now (down from £140 rrp) which is probably as cheap as I'll find anything.

Horizontal Tree
Jan 1, 2010
Going down to a 35mm length stem on that is going to be absurdly short, especially with steeper and twitchier head angles on older hardtails.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Horizontal Tree posted:

Going down to a 35mm length stem on that is going to be absurdly short, especially with steeper and twitchier head angles on older hardtails.

Some of that is countered by the wider bars. Going from 68cm to 78cm helps your leverage and slows down your inputs.
But yeah, might have to experiment with a bunch of $20 stems.

Scrapez
Feb 27, 2004

Do you guys have a recommendation on a bike repair stand that you like? The Park Tool stand is like $300 but I'll pay that if it's that much better than the other options.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I have the park tool stand that's around a hundo and it's pretty good.

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




I have the bronze-ish colored noname stand from amazon and its pretty decent if not a little fiddly. Would spend the extra for park next time.

Boogalo fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Nov 2, 2022

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I have a feedback sports stand that I like and is very space efficient folded up.

feelix
Nov 27, 2016
THE ONLY EXERCISE I AM UNFAMILIAR WITH IS EXERCISING MY ABILITY TO MAKE A POST PEOPLE WANT TO READ
the cheapest high-rated one on amazon that comes from 20 different chinese sellers is fine

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Horizontal Tree posted:

Going down to a 35mm length stem on that is going to be absurdly short, especially with steeper and twitchier head angles on older hardtails.

I assumed they meant 35mm diameter, vs 31.8 for the actual bar clamp diameter.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




n8r posted:

I have a feedback sports stand that I like and is very space efficient folded up.

I bought a cheap one from amazon that I really ended up disliking and then bought this one. This one rules.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Also have the feedback sports one. Travels great for bike road trips.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
also have the feedback sports stand. I’ve had it for seven years with no real problems. I broke a small part, and they sent a replacement quickly and for free. it’s very good and I’d buy it again. only minor gripe is that mine (the classic, I think the current equivalent is the Ultralight?) doesn’t have the quick release button for the clamp, and I wish it did.

dema
Aug 13, 2006

My Feedback Sports stand is well over a dozen years old and still going. The rubber is gone from the clamp, but it has been outside in the elements the entire time. I just toss a rag in there instead.

JoeSchmoe
Jul 17, 2003

I’ve got the bike tools work stand. Picked it up after getting frustrated with one of the Aldi stands.

It’s very similar to the park tools 9.3 but was under £100

Like it, and it’s able to hold up my e bike just fine.

JoeSchmoe fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Nov 4, 2022

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Donging around Big Bear's first snow of the season







Snow is a blast to ride in. Much like sand but wetter.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah love squeaking in those last few mtb rides before there's too much snow.





Thursday could have been it for me.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

A few days ago I found the local shop and tried a few marlin sizes. They didn't have the exact model in medium-large, but they said they will order one when they do their next order on the 11th. Are there any downsides to waiting for them to get one instead of ordering online? I don't know how that process works with something as large as a bike.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Outside of trying the fit before you buy and seeing it up close, probably not. Having a relationship with the shop is never bad for service and warranty stuff too. If there's no price difference I'd wait.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Oh I might actually be getting it tomorrow. They called and said it's in, so they must have meant the order would arrive on the 11th instead of being placed on the 11th.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Got it and rode around a bit, rides really good


spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Step 1: remove reflectors and kick stand

PolishPandaBear
Apr 10, 2009
Step 2: Get better pedals in a rad color.

Those will likely fail on your second ride.

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JUST MAKING CHILI
Feb 14, 2008
HT PA03A Flat Pedals Reinforced Nylon Unisex Adult, Dark Blue https://a.co/d/2P1zqYc

First upgrade I put on my marlin.

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