|
Beast posted:Possibly a question where the answer is : YMMV Dual-booting Linux would be one thing that would make Windows 11 more of a pain, but not impossible. I only have Windows 11 on a laptop that came with it, but it seems mostly fine. Windows 10 is supported until 2025, so it's not like there is a pressing need to get away from it. As far as I know there aren't any killer features on 11 that don't exist on 10, like how DX12 was gated to Windows 10 when Windows 7 was still around (I know 8 existed, but nobody ran it, so  ). Other people more knowledgeable than me might be able to provide more detail, or correct me if I'm wrong.
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2022 23:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 14:53 |
|
|
njsykora posted:If you're new building then yeah I don't think there's any major reason not to. A lot of little irritations that weren't irritations in Windows 10 but nothing that breaks everything. I still wouldn't upgrade if you're not doing a fresh install though. Unless it’s a system requirement (intel 12th gen+), I would personally stick with windows 10. Most games releasing right now are dev’ed on win10, and most users are win10, so I’d expect win10 to be more stable overall, in addition to supporting older software win11 may not. IMO win11 is fine, but I’m big on using the software that works until there’s a feature or use case worth upgrading for.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2022 23:18
|
|
|
How about these? I can stretch $35 for the faster memory if you guys think it's worth it over 3200. I think Super Flower was mentioned as a solid PSU brand. PCPartPicker Part List Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg Sellers)
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 00:02
|
|
|
Scoss posted:How about these? I'd personally go with the faster memory, especially since this is the end of the generation. I have 4x8GB of that RAM in both 3200 and 3600, and it's been perfectly solid for me. I'd say 750w is the lowest you should go, and Super Flower does have a good reputation.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 00:09
|
|
|
650W is fine for 5600 + 3060 Ti, just 750W gives more room for future upgrades
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 00:18
|
|
|
Thank you to those who advised me on parts. I will probably skip the 5800X3D due to pricing but now I'm not sure if I should get a 5600X or splurge a bit and get a 13600KF. From my stumbling around I would be paying about 200 dollars more from my understanding but I suppose my question is am I going to get 200 dollars in general performance out of it? I understand that trying to future proof a computer isn't a good idea but if I could coast on a 13600KF longer and swap out the graphics cards if that's my problem later that seems like it would be a better deal long term. Ideally I will not do any big rebuilds for about 5 years and I will cope with lower graphics settings if that becomes a problem. As a reminder I'm mostly going to be going with 1440p/144hz and I don't need all the bells and whistles going (although some would be nice). Here's one I made with the 5600x: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($158.00 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Adorama) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($157.53 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC Rev 2.0 GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card ($539.99 @ B&H) Case: NZXT H510 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ NZXT) Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.29 @ Amazon) Total: $1362.76 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-10 18:16 EST-0500 And here's one with the 13600KF: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-13600KF 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor ($309.98 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($55.99 @ Newegg Sellers) Motherboard: MSI MAG B660 TOMAHAWK WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($157.53 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC Rev 2.0 GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card ($539.99 @ B&H) Case: NZXT H510 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ NZXT) Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.29 @ Amazon) Total: $1560.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-10 18:16 EST-0500
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 00:20
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:Dual-booting Linux would be one thing that would make Windows 11 more of a pain, but not impossible. I only have Windows 11 on a laptop that came with it, but it seems mostly fine. Windows 10 is supported until 2025, so it's not like there is a pressing need to get away from it. As far as I know there aren't any killer features on 11 that don't exist on 10, like how DX12 was gated to Windows 10 when Windows 7 was still around (I know 8 existed, but nobody ran it, so there's three reason to care about win11 for gaming that i can think of - new scheduler (only matters for 12/13th gen intel systems) - auto HDR (apparently good but only if you have a proper HDR monitor, which most people don't) - directstorage fast path (irrelevant until games actually start using directstorage) new DX12 versions are being backported to win10, at least until it reaches EOL, so you don't miss out on anything there
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 00:36
|
|
|
the 5600 is preferable over the 5600X, performance is within margin of error but the 5600 is a bit cheaper the 13600KF is not going to be $200 worth of performance unless you're playing heavily CPU-dependent games (strategy games, MSFS, etc.) or doing other demanding non-gaming workloads. you should be able to get ~5 years of life out of either without too much issue but the 13600KF is going to hold up for longer. if you'd rather not spend that extra $200 then the 5600 is a perfectly fine option. you'd also likely need to get a Z690 over a B660 as barely any B660s have BIOS flashback so you wouldn't be able to update them if you get one that doesn't have the latest BIOS (probably pretty likely since Raptor Lake only came out pretty recently).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 00:55
|
|
|
Wait you need windows 11 for Intel 12+ gens? I guess I gotta remake my windows install USB then.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 01:05
|
|
|
ughhhh posted:Wait you need windows 11 for Intel 12+ gens? I guess I gotta remake my windows install USB then. Yeah, I constantly forget that because I have been all AMD for years now. I think it has to do with handling the e-cores properly, if memory serves.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 01:06
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:Yeah, I constantly forget that because I have been all AMD for years now. I think it has to do with handling the e-cores properly, if memory serves. Yep - the scheduler doesn’t have a way to understand which tasks should be assigned to the P-cores versus E-cores unless it can hook into Intel’s Thread Director integrated controller, which essentially makes the determination and exposes data to the OS to help it along. Note that Alder Lake chips without E-cores, like lower end chips than the 12600K, are not subject to this restriction because only P-cores are enabled.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 01:09
|
|
|
i'm vaguely considering building myself a new desktop pc. something i was considering: is there such a thing as a "cpu heavy gaming build" for pc's? i game a lot but it's stuff like noita or indies or the long dark or valheim or dwarf fortress or banished. i don't really care about having the latest graphics card so much as just running weird stuff smoothly, at a nice framerate on a decent sized screen. so i was thinking if it was maybe worth it to really go all in on the mobo, cpu, ram and cooling and just reuse my gpu from my current desktop (a ROG GTX 1070)? what i really want is for stuff to just run very snappy, with low load times and as little lag as possible in things like noita. from what i've read about these games a lot depends on single threaded performance, does it make sense to go for a relatively low number of cores then? or should i still just get whatever "the fastest" cpu is? is there an ultimate indie gamer build guide or something out there?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 09:58
|
|
|
the 5800x3d is almost certainly the best option for that type of weird cpu-heavy game, they typically absolutely love the gigantic cache it has. you don't really need to go all out on anything else
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 11:07
|
|
|
My current PC hit the 10 year mark, so it's time to build a new one. I don't really pay attention to computer stuff anymore so I really have no real idea what a lot of the newer stuff is. Like these harddrives that are the size of memory sticks? The heck? I probably don't need 128GB of RAM either, or do I? Do I? There are too many different variations on the graphic cards, so I just kinda picked one. I don't need to play on max settings but at the very least I want it to last a few years before I even have to think about upgrading. I'm not married to any of the parts I picked out I just did a little bit of research and found something that I thought would work. I would like a smaller case though, I'm tired of always having a giant tower. I'm not much of a tinkerer, I don't need to be messing with clock speeds and such, I just wanna play games, have them look nice and pretty, and run well. I'm not in a big rush to buy everything either, my plan is to get everything picked out and wait for sales. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i9-12900K 3.2 GHz 16-Core Processor ($499.89 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($149.95 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($319.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory ($269.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory ($269.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB M.2-2280 SATA Solid State Drive ($149.52 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial P2 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ventus 2X 12G GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB Video Card ($369.39 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Focus 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($60.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.01 @ Amazon) Total: $2348.70 please tell me i can turn off all the colorful lighting, i don't need that
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 14:20
|
|
|
Others will have to chime in with more specific advice, but I can tell you immediately that a 3060 is comically mismatched for a $2500 enthusiast build, and you definitely don’t need that second 64 GB ram kit unless you have very specific productivity workstation needs (add that extra $270 immediately to your GPU budget)
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 14:37
|
|
|
what sort of monitor are you intending to get, that's the important part for figuring out what sort of gaming performance you're targeting (so we can give you more specific advice). 1080p? 1440p? 4K? with this sort of budget you should be aiming for higher than 1080p nothing about the build at present really makes too much sense. the 13700K should be a generally better choice for your use case than the 12900K while being cheaper. barely anyone even needs 64GB RAM let alone 128GB. neither SSD makes much sense (just generally poor value for money). the case is an ok budget choice but if you're spending that much you should be getting something nicer. the 3060 is still not really a good choice for anyone (6600XT is much better value at 1080p) and certainly doesn't make sense when you're spending this much. you can thankfully turn off the lighting lih fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Nov 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 14:44
|
|
|
Gorgolflox posted:
This build list has a lot of problems. First off, you absolutely do not need 128GB of memory. I don't know enough about video/audio editing to know if having a lot of memory helps with that, but if those aren't particularly memory-hungry tasks, then I'd just go with 32GB. You should only go over that amount if you have some very specific use cases for doing so. You can get 32GB of DDR5-6000 for less than $200: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kRZ9TW/teamgroup-t-force-vulcan-alpha-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl38-memory-flabd532g6000hc38adc01 (incidentally, this kit can probably be overclocked to ridiculous levels if you're crazy enough to do manual memory overclocking—it's too much of a hassle for a minimal enough gain to recommend doing though) Second of all, the 12900K isn't a great CPU to buy right now. The 13700K is basically the same thing but slightly better while costing less. Even that may be overkill as the 13600K is a perfectly good gaming and media editing CPU. Even a previous-gen 12600K would be an order of magnitude better than whatever's in your 10-year-old PC. I also don't think there's much point in getting a Z790 board over a Z690 board. Z690 boards are compatible with 12th-gen chips out of the box and 13th-gen chips after a bios update (which you can do without a CPU on most boards nowadays). That or the Z690 Tomahawk are both solid boards, though. The storage drives here are not great picks. The WD blue is an m.2 SATA drive which should be avoided these days, and the P2 is not the fastest drive you can get at that price. If you want 4TB of SSD storage, then in my opinion grab a 2TB SN770 for your OS drive and a 2TB Kingston NV2 for a secondary game drive or whatever. These are actually the same speed, but the SN770 is a "TLC" drive which means it's a bit more reliable, while the NV2 is a "QLC" drive which makes it cheaper but a little less reliable (they're both going to be pretty reliable though, SSDs are way better now than they were 10 years ago). The Kingston KC3000 is one of the fastest consumer drives on the market right now, and it's had some pretty good sales lately (under $90 for 1TB) so it may be worth keeping an eye on too. For the video card, this really depends on the kind of monitor you'll end up getting. If you're going 4K, I'd recommend at least a 3080 12GB. For 1440p, probably get a 3070, but a 3080 is still an option if you want to really max out those ray tracing options. For 1080p, you shouldn't be building such an expensive PC, so forget about that. So you should probably decide on at least the monitor resolution first and then pick your GPU based on that. The case is an okay budget case, but it strikes me as a little weird to use a budget case in an otherwise high-end PC. There are better cases with much better airflow out there, like the Lancool III, The Meshify 2 (the "Lite" version is on sale for $90 right now actually—I think the only difference is that it doesn't come with front-panel USB-C), or the Fractal Torrent if you want to go full airflow. The Corsair RM series are good power supplies, but you'll need to upgrade it if you upgrade the GPU. I think that's that for now. In general, I think you should be spending less on the CPU (and probably the cooler) and memory, and spending more on the GPU. You'll be much happier with its gaming performance that way, and I don't believe media editing is CPU-intensive enough to warrant a top-of-the-line CPU to be honest. I put together my own PCPartPicker list with these considerations in mind here. It's cheaper but still very high-end and much faster at gaming, and the best part, no RGB. I was just sorta going with the theme you started with of a generally high-end build, but you can easily get this to sub-$2k by buying a slightly older CPU and cheaper motherboard, taking advantage of some combo deals, skimping a little bit on the case (there are good cases between this one and the one you picked), maybe using only a single 2TB SSD and relying on a spinning HDD for media storage, etc. edit: I honestly didn't see the part where you said you're sick of giant cases. I'm not sure what you have now, but there are relatively compact midtowers that you might be happy with (e.g. Meshify 2 Compact), or you could go small form factor if you really want (NR200, Meshlishious) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Nov 12, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 15:32
|
|
|
If you want to go really small you could always build in something like the NR200P MAX. Note that this won't work if you have any PCI card needs other than the GPU, but it will get you something that is small and runs pretty cool. You need a mITX board, which have some limitations - one PCI slot, usually only 2 DIMM slots, tend to be more expensive. But that will get you down to a 18L form factor without too much build difficulty if you really want to get to something small. In comparison, the Fractal case you originally selected is 45L.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 16:13
|
|
|
What country are you in? UK Do you live near Microcenter? No What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? £1,000 or less I'm looking replacing my PC, which I built back in the summer of 2015 with the help of this thread, ast there's a number of releases lined up in the next couple of years I don't think it'll be able to handle with my current machine. I tried picking out parts myself but beyond a lot of guides telling me the i5-12400 may be a good bet I really don't know what I'm looking for. I'm not fussed about mouse/keyboard/monitor as I'll just carry the ones from my old machine over for the meantime, and I also have two SSDs (100 and 500gb) so that's not a priority either, though I may add a larger new one at some point. I'm not too bothered about running new games on ultra-high , my main goal is reliability/compatibility and I'm happy to upgrade things like GFX and memory as/when it becomes necessary. Oh, and if it can be fairly compact that's good too (my current machine is in a coolermaster n300 so I'd like to keep that size or smaller if possible).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 18:08
|
|
|
Not going to chime in on overall build, but video editing 64gb of ram is reasonable if you’re doing legit pro level editing. It’s even possible to go above 128gb if you’re running multiple concurrent editing suites (think premiere + after effects + plug-in+ etc). However, for a personal system 128gb is overkill as hell. 64gb though should be the target for that build if the intention is for it to last. When it comes to the other parts, it depends on specific use case. For active editing process, you’re going to get much more lifting from the CPU. The GPU comes more into play once you’re rendering completed files (it doesn’t change the results, just can save minutes/hours of time). VRAM can be especially important here. It can also effect the speed of how explicit effects are applied but that’s much more use case and out of scope here.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 18:09
|
|
|
Quick (or maybe not) airflow/cooling question. I have a Lian Li O11D Evo case. It used to be set up with a 360 rad as side intake, 3x120 fans as bottom intake, 3x120 fans as top exhaust and 1x120 as rear exhaust [insert a fart joke here]. With my air-cooled 3070 Ti set up horizontally this worked beautifully, but I recently got a hybrid-cooler 3090 Ti with a 240 rad and for a few reasons I have to re-think the whole setup. 1) With the side radiator slot taken, the only way I can set the GPU rad is at the bottom which 1a)means that I have 2 fans on a rad that take away a lot of my bottom clearance 1b)also means that I have one fan at the bottom without a rad, which looks uneven and weird 1c)forces me to loop/bunch/coil the tubes in a tiny mess because the run is so short and the fans leave me no room 2) With the 3090 Ti comes the 12VHPWR cable that shall not be bent and I don't have quite the clearance to install it horizontally (+ I hate the octopus dongle) so I bought CableMod cables and a vertical mount. Now, as much as I like my current set up, temperature-wise, I think the best compromise I could make would be to mount the CPU 360 rad as top exhaust, the GPU 240 rad + 1x120 fan as side intake, 3x120 fans as bottom intakes and keep my 1x120 fan as rear exhaust. With the GPU mounted vertically that should let the air flow pretty well in the case and with both rads set up this way all my fans would be level, which would look a lot better. My first question would be: would anyone do this differently? I don't think there are that many options but I'd hate to spend an hour (+) messing about with my rads and fans and find out a day later that there was a better way to do things, which is pretty much always what happens. My second question would be: what are some good, silent RGB 120mm case fans? Right now I'm running a taster's board of Corsair, Asus, Deep Cool and NZXT but long-term I'd like to maybe save some dB and have the same model fan all over.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 19:55
|
|
|
CordlessPen posted:Quick (or maybe not) airflow/cooling question. I have a Lian Li O11D Evo case. It used to be set up with a 360 rad as side intake, 3x120 fans as bottom intake, 3x120 fans as top exhaust and 1x120 as rear exhaust [insert a fart joke here]. With my air-cooled 3070 Ti set up horizontally this worked beautifully, but I recently got a hybrid-cooler 3090 Ti with a 240 rad and for a few reasons I have to re-think the whole setup. A little unconventional but I’d do Top 360 CPU exhaust Side 240 GPU + 120mm as exhaust Bottom full intake Rear intake GPU vertical (but I think this would work fine even if it wasn’t). While you can absolutely intake with a Rad, you are technically dumping air hotter than ambient into the case by intaking with the rad. Since you have significantly less heat in the case because you are exhausting all the hottest air out via the rad as exhaust, you don’t need too much intake. And 4 fans as intake would be more than enough even without a double rad setup.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 20:26
|
|
|
It's been about 10 years since my last major upgrade (motherboard/CPU/etc.) -- and some of the less crucial components, such as the case, date back to 2007. It's served me very well, but it's becoming increasingly difficult to slot any meaningful upgrades into this thing -- I think my inability to get an NVME SSD was the last straw. So I'm finally looking to rebuild from the ground up. At the moment, I'm not planning to upgrade my GPU, since I got that in 2020. It'll go from being the only thing making modern gaming remotely possible for me to being the bottleneck, but I'll deal with that some other time, unless a really good deal comes along. But I don't want to skimp too much on the other components right now, since GPU upgrades are pretty easy and I know I'll be looking at that every few years regardless. I want the base system to last me another 10-15 years if at all possible. What country are you in? USA Do you live near Microcenter? Sadly no. (Used to live in NY where they grow on trees, now I'm in the comparable desert of NC.) What are you using the system for? Gaming, some amount of media streaming (Plex), audio editing/mixing, and potentially video editing. What's your budget? Around $1000 that I've saved up throughout the year. Since this is basically my "Christmas gift" I could possibly wrangle some other money together for it, but basically, $1000. Not looking to upgrade monitor or peripherals at this time. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I'm flexible on this, and as mentioned above I'm nebulously assuming I'll do a GPU upgrade at some future point in time. I do care about graphics but I'm pretty much always slightly behind the curve, and I'm okay with that. Currently I'm gaming at 1080p / 60Hz and I have no plans to change that any time soon. Getting my current PC to run DOOM 2016 was a milestone and I'm content with that for now. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? N/A as this mostly will not be any kind of work computer. I did mention some music & video editing above, but only on a hobby basis, and I have not really found my current PC wanting in that regard. Right now I'm kind of stuck in analysis paralysis -- I really have no idea if I want to go AMD or Intel, for example. I have been keeping an eye on the PC Part Picker "build guides", but I've noticed they are often slightly at odds with this thread. They usually recommend AsRock motherboards, for example, whereas this thread seem to have soured on them a bit. I definitely don't want to skimp on the motherboard. I also want the motherboard to have built-in WiFi and Bluetooth, since there are times I've really wished I had those. Their build guides & filters usually don't seem to point me in that direction, though I've found some on my own. Speaking of which, what's the deal with DDR4 vs. DDR5? Seems like I might want to support DDR5 but it also might be cost-prohibitive right now due to some supply chain issues or something? This is another thing I'm kind of willing to just go with the flow on. If future-proofing would be several orders of magnitude more expensive, I'll just deal with it for now. I'm not dead-set on getting 32GB instead of 16, but at these prices I'm kind of figuring why the hell not? Also, I don't need fancy RGB stuff but I admit I'll be kind of sad if stuff ends up not having it  I recently got a new gaming mouse (also for the first time in at least 10 years) and I was like a kid at Christmas seeing all the neat RGB stuff it could do.Oh, I also like the idea of it being a bit quieter and less power-intensive than my current build, but I'm kind of figuring that will just happen. Not looking to spend extra on that, if that's even a thing. Here's the parts list I've been working on, but I'm 100% open to suggestions. (I've included my current graphics card just as a compatibility check, but my understanding is not much about that has changed in years. I'm putting it in strikeout font so that if anybody missed my wall of text, maybe they'll read up here to figure out why the hell I "chose" that card.) PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($279.98 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler ($53.89 @ Amazon) Motherboard: *Gigabyte B660 GAMING X AX DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon) Memory: *Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($40.97 @ Amazon) Memory: *Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($40.97 @ Amazon) Storage: *Silicon Power A60 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.49 @ Newegg Sellers) Case: Antec DF700 FLUX ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 PE 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($121.99 @ Newegg) Total: $942.27 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-11 14:18 EST-0500 Here's my current build if anyone's curious -- as you'll see, it's pretty outdated, to put it lightly. And I've simply been accumulating SATA hard drives for friggin' years. (I may have gotten a few of the parts wrong like the PSU or whatever, but who cares. Since they're on here, I should mention that I have no plans of carrying over my dinosaur optical drives or sound card. I have a portable BD-R drive for whenever I need it, and I'm finally going to kiss sound cards goodbye!) Sir Lemming fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Nov 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 20:29
|
|
|
Pilfered Pallbearers posted:A little unconventional but I’d do That does sound pretty good. I used to only think of rads as exhaust but someone told me to try them as intake to make the hotter things (CPU, GPU) cooler in exchange for making the cooler things (VRM, SSD, RAM) warmer and I guess it stuck. Thanks, I'll come back with pictures and temps once I've received enough of my stuff to get started (seems like CableMods has huge delays at the moment, especially related to the 12VHPWR cables).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 21:19
|
|
|
Sir Lemming posted:It's been about 10 years since my last major upgrade (motherboard/CPU/etc.) -- and some of the less crucial components, such as the case, date back to 2007. It's served me very well, but it's becoming increasingly difficult to slot any meaningful upgrades into this thing -- I think my inability to get an NVME SSD was the last straw. So I'm finally looking to rebuild from the ground up. If you're price constrained (as you are) you are probably just as good going with DDR4-3200 CL16. DDR5 ram of comparable performance (at least in games) seems to be a good 50%-75% more expensive, and DDR5 motherboards are typically $20-$50 more than the DDR4 versions at the moment. I would probably go with 2x16 GB dimms though, not 4x8GB. E.g. Silicon Power GAMING 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory for $69 at the moment. If you want more RGB, you could go for a flashier cooler, e.g. Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler will be fine for an i5-12600k, especially as you won't be able to overclock on that motherboard. Slightly cheaper at $40 too. Edit: If you have a ton of SATA drives you want to connect, note that mobo you picked has only 4 sata connectors. The comparable Z690 boards tend to have 6 or more, but are more expensive of course. Hobnob fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Nov 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 21:24
|
|
|
CordlessPen posted:That does sound pretty good. I used to only think of rads as exhaust but someone told me to try them as intake to make the hotter things (CPU, GPU) cooler in exchange for making the cooler things (VRM, SSD, RAM) warmer and I guess it stuck. Thanks, I'll come back with pictures and temps once I've received enough of my stuff to get started (seems like CableMods has huge delays at the moment, especially related to the 12VHPWR cables). That’s a good way to think of it. Dumping the hot air back into the case mixed with some cool air is preferred to having absolutely no air move into the case. Most people due to case size constraints front mount the rad, and when front mounted you just can’t get enough air into the case if it’s set to exhaust. This is the majority reason why it’s recommended you top mount your rad as a default. Your case is the rare exception where you can actually get intake air in from the bottom. Most cases have 1, if any, bottom fan mounts, and they’re usually blocked off by PSU shrouds or similar. Additionally, most people run an AIO only on the CPU, which means the GPU gets choked out and the ambient case temp is much higher from the GPU dumping heat. My advice probably would have been different if you weren’t running dual AIO. Pilfered Pallbearers fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Nov 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 22:22
|
|
|
How long does a tube of noctua thermal paste last? Website says 3 years, but I want to see if I need to get another tube for when I rebuild my computer.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 23:11
|
|
|
Jeff the Mediocre posted:How long does a tube of noctua thermal paste last? Website says 3 years, but I want to see if I need to get another tube for when I rebuild my computer. I give you mad props if you actually managed to keep the tube that long. Every time I buy one it seems to get immediately lost after I’m done with it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 23:18
|
|
|
I bought a tube of kryonaut in anticipation of a system rebuild that I postponed several months only for me to be completely unable to find it by the time the rebuild actually happened.  Luckily I still had my noctua paste handy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 23:34
|
|
|
I currently have 2 tubes of Arctic MX-4 paste on my desk because everything I bought for this upgrade had a tube of it tossed in.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2022 23:51
|
|
|
Lancool 216 reviews have hit, and it seems like a pretty solid $100 option. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_w0NbB84P0 It's a little gimmicky with the movable motherboard mounts and extra rear fan bracket, but the out-of-the-box configuration seems to work well. Seems like a nice overall case in that price range. It's competing with the Phanteks G360A, and both are likely good options. Corsair's 4000D Airflow has also been around $100 lately, but you need to buy extra fans to make the most out of it. I think GN was probably using the expansion-slot fan wrong. Lian Li showed it off as additional intake, but GN had it configured as exhaust in their testing. The idea is that you have another fan feeding air directly into the GPU. I don't know how good it will actually be like this though, and it's also unfiltered intake, so I still wouldn't bother with it. It also would push up against the exhaust from GPUs with horizontal finstacks. It's such a weird gimmick. Case manufacturers these days seem to be shipping their cases with good fan configurations in order to top the thermal performance charts in reviews, and while this is probably a good thing overall, it does make it tricky trying to find a really good case that doesn't waste money on fans you don't need if you already have good ones.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 00:08
|
|
|
Hobnob posted:Edit: Good inquiry, I have no plans of keeping all those drives, haha. They're all old as hell. I might keep the 2TB around for bulk media storage, but that's probably it. I'm trying to get away from that whole setup -- the only reason I didn't get rid of any of those drives was because they simply refused to die on me
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 01:45
|
|
|
Owlkill posted:What country are you in? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor (£138.99 @ Technextday) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£24.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B550M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£121.64 @ Box Limited) Memory: Kingston FURY Renegade 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£110.35 @ CCL Computers) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£72.71 @ CCL Computers) Video Card: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB Video Card (£369.00 @ Nvidia) Case: Cooler Master TD300 Mesh MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£84.93 @ Box Limited) Power Supply: Corsair TX650M Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£45.46 @ Scan.co.uk) Total: £967.98 would be excellent at 1080p or reasonable at 1440p. if you're sticking to 1080p with no plans to upgrade beyond that, it'd be reasonable to save a bit by going down to a 6600XT/6650XT or 6600 with the tradeoff of poor raytracing performance. went for a mATX case since you wanted something compact - Pop Air Mini is another reasonable option. if you're fine with another mid tower (around the same size as your old case or maybe slightly bigger) you could go for the Phanteks P300A with three added fans, G360A or P400A, or Lian Li Lancool 215 as very good options around that price too Sir Lemming posted:It's been about 10 years since my last major upgrade (motherboard/CPU/etc.) -- and some of the less crucial components, such as the case, date back to 2007. It's served me very well, but it's becoming increasingly difficult to slot any meaningful upgrades into this thing -- I think my inability to get an NVME SSD was the last straw. So I'm finally looking to rebuild from the ground up. would think about something like this: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($118.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X Refined SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($22.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($68.97 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($157.55 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI MECH 2X OC Radeon RX 6650 XT 8 GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg) Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 215 ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 V2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Newegg) Total: $943.37 the PSU you chose is fine but this one's also great and slightly cheaper with the rebate. still has 10 year warranty and 850W so you have room to re-use it in the future. for the GPU you can go down to the 6600 if you want to save more as previously mentioned. the 5600 is a little worse than the 12600K but it doesn't sound like you're really going to get much extra from the 12600K (& i'd go up to the 13600KF since it's not much more if you really wanted to) - it would only be better for your hobbyist audio/video editing, but if you're not having trouble with an 11-year old CPU then you're not going to notice much. you will get much more out of your system by upgrading the GPU now and the CPU slightly less. lih fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Nov 12, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 02:37
|
|
|
Anything I should look out for on this ASRock z690 itx board? It's the only itx board in ddr4 under 200$ I could find to pair with my i5-13600k. I got a bunch of spare heatsinks I could place on the vram but I don't really plan on OCing the CPU at this moment (but probably will in the future)
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 03:48
|
|
|
I have a FD Torrent Compact on the way, a 13600k with a bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4, and a 6800 XT. Will the two 180mm case fans on the front be enough to cool the system or do I need to purchase fans for the bottom and the rear too? I'm not planning on overclocking anything.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 03:54
|
|
|
ughhhh posted:Anything I should look out for on this ASRock z690 itx board? It's the only itx board in ddr4 under 200$ I could find to pair with my i5-13600k. I got a bunch of spare heatsinks I could place on the vram but I don't really plan on OCing the CPU at this moment (but probably will in the future)
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 04:08
|
|
|
Any idea which of DeepCool's pastes come with thier coolers? Was wondering if I should upgrade to something else.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 04:28
|
|
|
lih posted:i'm a bit confused by what you're going for here. 10-15 years lifetime is just not a reasonable expectation, you will be bottlenecked by something long before then. i'm really not sure what you're going to get by just upgrading the CPU - your GPU is still quite old and very much going to be a bottleneck these days for gaming and you said that your hobbyist video/audio editing isn't taxing on your decade-old CPU. since you're sticking to 1080p 60Hz, i would upgrade your GPU to a 6600 (~$190) or 6600XT/6650XT (~$250) now which will be a significant improvement over the 1060 6GB and run pretty much anything new fine at 1080p. Sorry, I know I get long-winded trying to explain things and end up making it more confusing. I should clarify that I'm expecting/hoping to be able to upgrade the GPU kind of soon, just not right now. (I'm thinking another 6 months or so.) The way I'm thinking, there isn't anything I could buy now that would lock me out of a GPU upgrade for the foreseeable future, so I have time. Like even if they decided tomorrow to immediately ditch PCI Express for all future cards, I doubt I'll be outpacing a GeForce 4000 series any time soon. I will definitely keep my eyes open for a more balanced AMD-based full rebuild though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 04:41
|
|
|
well, what sort of performance are you going to be after when you do upgrade your GPU (even if it is 6 months away) and are you planning to upgrade your monitor then too?
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 06:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 14:53 |
|
|
tofes posted:I have a FD Torrent Compact on the way, a 13600k with a bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4, and a 6800 XT. Will the two 180mm case fans on the front be enough to cool the system or do I need to purchase fans for the bottom and the rear too? I'm not planning on overclocking anything. You'll be fine, a Dark Rock Pro 4 is hella overkill for that CPU anyway, I've seen people put that thing on Threadrippers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2022 08:40
|
|