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HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


raceface chesters :colbert:

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feelix
Nov 27, 2016
THE ONLY EXERCISE I AM UNFAMILIAR WITH IS EXERCISING MY ABILITY TO MAKE A POST PEOPLE WANT TO READ
Wow I've literally never heard of HT and was going to recommend getting Chesters or Stamps to support a real bike company, and it turns out HT is a real bike company that sponsors UCI champions. $50 is steep though, you can find genuine chesters or stamps cheaper

I would actually say ride the cheap factory ones until they do break. They look fine, and you're going to destroy your shins less. You might have one ride cut short with a broken pedal, up to you

JUST MAKING CHILI
Feb 14, 2008
I like the HTs, and had never heard of
them before I bought them but they were highly rated online from what I found. They’re roughly the same weight and dimensions as Chesters, which I couldn’t find anywhere in stock nearby during last two years of Covid. Wouldn’t be much of a difference to go with another brand though.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

PolishPandaBear posted:

Step 2: Get better pedals in a rad color.

Those will likely fail on your second ride.

The gently caress, no they won't, lol. This isnt a huffy or something. That said, they are inferior to better pedals with metal pins/etc.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah those pedals aren't going to break or anything but they have plastic "pins" which are not nearly as grippy as a pedal with metal pins/screws. $50-55 is pretty standard for a name brand plastic pedal with good pins and yeah those HTs are decent. We go through a lot of kona wah wahs and deity def traps. The trek line elite pedals do come in a matching "mulsanne blue."

jamal fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Nov 13, 2022

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

step 2 get a dropper.
step 3 shred all the things

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

Some of that is countered by the wider bars. Going from 68cm to 78cm helps your leverage and slows down your inputs.
But yeah, might have to experiment with a bunch of $20 stems.



I did 3 hours of mostly red and blue trails today on this slightly odd looking bike.



I feel pretty much the same about mountain biking as I did last time I tried it 3 years ago, which is that I'd probably quite enjoy it with some practice. The dropper post was absolutely a revelation. I'm not sure about the shorter stem, it made the riding position more comfortable but everything felt very twitchy. I'm horribly out of practice though, and wasn't any slower descending than my friend on a cheap modern 29er. I did find myself getting rock strikes on my pedals more often though, which presumably is because of the smaller wheels (or longer cranks).

I ended up having to buy new rotors, pads, cassette and chain on top of a dropper post and stem/bars so it was quite an expensive day out (fortunately 8 speed parts are cheap). My main takeaway was gently caress front derailleurs, topping or bottoming out a chainring on a technical patch really sucks. I know I could get a second hand 1x11 or 1x12 groupset for cheap and still be well under half the cost of a new bike but I should probably just hire one next time I go out and see how different it feels and how much I care.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Yeep posted:



I did 3 hours of mostly red and blue trails today on this slightly odd looking bike.



I feel pretty much the same about mountain biking as I did last time I tried it 3 years ago, which is that I'd probably quite enjoy it with some practice. The dropper post was absolutely a revelation. I'm not sure about the shorter stem, it made the riding position more comfortable but everything felt very twitchy. I'm horribly out of practice though, and wasn't any slower descending than my friend on a cheap modern 29er. I did find myself getting rock strikes on my pedals more often though, which presumably is because of the smaller wheels (or longer cranks).

I ended up having to buy new rotors, pads, cassette and chain on top of a dropper post and stem/bars so it was quite an expensive day out (fortunately 8 speed parts are cheap). My main takeaway was gently caress front derailleurs, topping or bottoming out a chainring on a technical patch really sucks. I know I could get a second hand 1x11 or 1x12 groupset for cheap and still be well under half the cost of a new bike but I should probably just hire one next time I go out and see how different it feels and how much I care.

Someone else correct me but I think you can get a 1x9 drivetrain from Microshift for absurdly cheap and it's fully reliable due to the wider chain that will never die.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

VelociBacon posted:

Someone else correct me but I think you can get a 1x9 drivetrain from Microshift for absurdly cheap and it's fully reliable due to the wider chain that will never die.

Looks like shifter, RD, chain, and cassette are $130. It's a decent deal but probably still a tough decision re upgrading. Especially if you have to pay a shop and need incidentals like cable housing.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

Looks like shifter, RD, chain, and cassette are $130. It's a decent deal but probably still a tough decision re upgrading. Especially if you have to pay a shop and need incidentals like cable housing.

Yeah, 1x cranks are still going to be the expensive part. I could probably get everything I need in 11x Shimano XT for about £150 second hand after a quick look around. My neighbour says he has a big box of stems I can play with so I'll see how it feels with a 50 or 65mm before making a decision.

The weather yesterday was stunning for November which really helped, and I liked that the 4 of us had chilled out chats on the climbs then could take the descents at our own speed. It was a nice day out even if I could currently give or take the mtb part.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I can't imagine being able to chat on climbs, no cardio life.

Cranks are probably the expense (and maybe bb with it) yeah. I would take a look at pinkbike or just live with the 3x.

pinarello dogman
Jun 17, 2013

You can just slap a NW ring / shorter bolts on the ones you've got and spend nothing on cranks.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

pinarello dogman posted:

You can just slap a NW ring / shorter bolts on the ones you've got and spend nothing on cranks.

Or keep an unused ring on there if you wanna save on the bolts, too. Though IME there's some nasty cheap bolts that'll be pretty hard to take off, and need that stupid bolt blade wrench.

Mexican Radio
Jan 5, 2007

mombo with your jombo?
early AM on the first snow of the year. whole house is still asleep. i descend the basement stairs and approach the trainer.

hello darkness my old friend

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Mexican Radio posted:

early AM on the first snow of the year. whole house is still asleep. i descend the basement stairs and approach the trainer.

hello darkness my old friend

All I did was walk the dog and decide to work from home instead of biking in to the office.

PolishPandaBear
Apr 10, 2009

PaintVagrant posted:

The gently caress, no they won't, lol. This isnt a huffy or something. That said, they are inferior to better pedals with metal pins/etc.

Ok, second ride was a pretty big exaggeration.

Assuming by them having reflectors, they were free or extremely cheap from the bike shop since bikes never come with pedals. I've never had a good experience with free or cheap pedals. I had ones once where the spindle didn't go the full width of the pedal and the pedal body kinked and eventually fell off. And they looked exactly like those.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

The pedals are these https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/p/W566275

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Marlins come with pedals. Those pedals. Plenty of lower-mid range bikes do too. It's more the higher end stuff that usually doesn't.

jamal fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Nov 15, 2022

deong
Jun 13, 2001

I'll see you in heck!

spwrozek posted:

All I did was walk the dog and decide to work from home instead of biking in to the office.

quitter.

MarxCarl
Jul 18, 2003

Dumb question, what is the box on the seattube for? This is a new Giant Trance, but I've also seen them on Cannondales.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Magnetic Bluetooth front derailleur

PolishPandaBear
Apr 10, 2009

Slavvy posted:

Magnetic Bluetooth front derailleur

Pretty much, but just a boring old front derailleur mount with a cover on it.

You can also buy bottle opener replacement plates:
https://www.jensonusa.com/MRP-Decapitator-Fd-Mount-Bottle-Opener

Edit: The better use for it, a chain guide:
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/chain-guide-high-direct-mount

feelix
Nov 27, 2016
THE ONLY EXERCISE I AM UNFAMILIAR WITH IS EXERCISING MY ABILITY TO MAKE A POST PEOPLE WANT TO READ
I remember Canyons getting made fun of in reviews for still having cable routing for front derailleurs like a year or two ago, so I'm surprised big brands still have those big mounts

MarxCarl
Jul 18, 2003

Slavvy posted:

Magnetic Bluetooth front derailleur

Thank you. This has been bugging me for awhile. My first thought was it was for a front derailleur, then I doubted that because the location seemed way too high for that. Having looked up the size of a magnetic front, I now see why it is where it is.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
You can probably blame Shimano since they still make front derailleurs. 2x12 xtr is a thing that exists.

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost

I need this but it looks like they don't have a way to buy it here? Is this a common thing or should be I brand aware?

PolishPandaBear
Apr 10, 2009

Nocheez posted:

I need this but it looks like they don't have a way to buy it here? Is this a common thing or should be I brand aware?

Plenty of brands make them.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/gnarwolf-chainguide-high-direct-mount


I also saw a Shimano one on Jenson.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-S...frFlmnNj-UrqbF4

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

PolishPandaBear posted:

Pretty much, but just a boring old front derailleur mount with a cover on it.

You can also buy bottle opener replacement plates:
https://www.jensonusa.com/MRP-Decapitator-Fd-Mount-Bottle-Opener

Edit: The better use for it, a chain guide:
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/chain-guide-high-direct-mount

Odd that when I bought my Giant Trance in 2019 it came with a chain guide mounted there, while my partner got a Liv Intrigue (which is basically the same thing, just the 'womens' version) at the same time and it didn't come with one. They're slightly different spec bikes but both have NW chainrings and clutched derailleurs?

I'm actually not sure what the point of the chain guide is if you have a NW chainring and clutch, I've had to re-adjust the chain guide several times because it keeps shifting and rubbing so I might just take it off entirely one day. Some sort of bash guard to protect the chainring when going over logs/roots/wooden features etc. seems like it would be more useful and less likely to get in the way.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
You can still drop a chain. I've done it a few times, especially on CX bikes and hardtails. But it's also a sign your chain and/or chainring are worn. I don't think I've ever bounced the chain off the ring on my hei hei.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Trying not to skip out on riding in the cold months this year, what warm clothes can you wear biking without being a sweaty mess?

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Basically ride a little slower so you don't sweat as much and bring multiple layers.

For clothes I have some thermal bib tights that are pretty good down to like, low/mid 20s. And I have a couple pairs of pants ranging from fairly light to thermal softhshell. I can layer all this kind of however I want, from just regular liner bibs under pants to full thermal bibs under the softshells. Top layer you'll want to vary depeding on what you're doing. Like I might do a slow, long climb in just a thermal jersey but then have both a jacket plus a light puffy along to put on over top for the way back down. For longer rides it's also nice to have a spare pair of gloves, another under helmet cap, and an extra buff to put on when the ones you're wearing get wet. Some stuff I wear is "bike specific," some stuff is not.

Hands and feet are my limiting factor. Feet is pretty easy- you can just wear some insulated hiking type boots with flat pedals. I have some fancy shimano clipless winter boots that I like but not necessary. Bar mitts/pogies are the way to go when it's really cold. I've been meaning to get a pair or two. Ski gloves keep your hands pretty warm but don't have great dexterity or control.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I use the 45nrth bibs, a 250 weight smart wool top and a breathable softshell coat. That works for me from 45 down to about 25.

For 15 deg to 25 deg I add another merino baselayer under the bibs and do a 100 weight smartwool top, grid fleece, then softshell.

I don’t ride colder than 15, nothing seems to keep the seat making my groin too cold at that temperature. I use pogies and a light wool glove all winter. Pogies are the best.

It’s important to start the ride slightly cold.

dema
Aug 13, 2006

Yeah, I just wear fleece-backed bib tights under my mtb shorts. Like these: https://www.rapha.cc/us/en_US/shop/mens-core-winter-tights-with-pad/product/CPD02XXBLK

And then an appropriate weight jacket, gloves and a buff.

Shoes are sometimes a problem. I might switch from SPDs to flats for this winter.

For sure always start a little under dressed.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

brand engager posted:

Trying not to skip out on riding in the cold months this year, what warm clothes can you wear biking without being a sweaty mess?

How cold are the cold months?

For Midwest US/Canada winter weather go with a merino base layer with synthetic layers on top. Lots of thin layers so you can open/close at will to control how fast you're dumping heat out of your clothing. I recommend chamois shorts not bibs it sucks a ton trying to take a leak in the cold with bibs. Baggy outer layers are usually better for slower more casual rides because the air gap will keep you warmer than something skin tight. Bring extra gloves so you can change into them if they get too sweaty or you get them wet for some reason and they lose their insulating properties. Keep your phone in a ziplok bag with a chemical warmer and enough cash to call a cab if you have an emergency. A lot of things that can happen on a ride in the summer that are an inconvenience at worst can turn into a serious emergency when it gets cold.

Enjoy the snow riding in the winter is a totally different experience.

dema posted:

For sure always start a little under dressed.

Definitely. If you aren't chilly during the first 10 minutes of your ride you're going to be way too hot for the rest of it.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Chemical toe warmers are a game changer.

dema
Aug 13, 2006

Yeah, just don't get them wet, they stop working. They also need a little airflow to work best.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
If it gets insanely cold electric gloves are awesome but DEFINITELY don't get them wet. I did once hunting, it was a shocking experience.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

EvilJoven posted:

How cold are the cold months?

For Midwest US/Canada winter weather go with a merino base layer with synthetic layers on top. Lots of thin layers so you can open/close at will to control how fast you're dumping heat out of your clothing. I recommend chamois shorts not bibs it sucks a ton trying to take a leak in the cold with bibs. Baggy outer layers are usually better for slower more casual rides because the air gap will keep you warmer than something skin tight. Bring extra gloves so you can change into them if they get too sweaty or you get them wet for some reason and they lose their insulating properties. Keep your phone in a ziplok bag with a chemical warmer and enough cash to call a cab if you have an emergency. A lot of things that can happen on a ride in the summer that are an inconvenience at worst can turn into a serious emergency when it gets cold.

Enjoy the snow riding in the winter is a totally different experience.

Definitely. If you aren't chilly during the first 10 minutes of your ride you're going to be way too hot for the rest of it.

It usually doesn't get below freezing or snow here during the day.

Also the local sporting dept store has their clothes on sale so I picked up some more winter layers

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
hoodie + warm baselayers. Heatgear, whatever. Long sweat pants to soak up the snow. works fine for me down into single digit Fahrenheit. Good thick gloves. Good thick wool socks.
Like others said start out a little too cold. Warm up into it. keep running things a little on the hot side to stay warm. You'll be fine.

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EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

brand engager posted:

It usually doesn't get below freezing or snow here during the day.

Also the local sporting dept store has their clothes on sale so I picked up some more winter layers

Then basically ignore most of what I posted. A thicker neoprene cycling glove with a spare pair or a backup that's even warmer just in case, thermal riding leggings or thin synthetic pants on top of chamois shorts or bibs. A Merino top may still be in order because it will still keep you warm if it gets damp. A packable wind/rain jacket to throw on if it gets chilly. Good wool socks, maybe shoe covers.

Avoid anything cotton. It gets mighty cold when it gets wet.

One thing I would recommend if you're riding in the back country in those temps is keep one of those little foil emergency blankets on hand. It won't take up much more space than a thick wallet. At just around freezing temperatures you're going to be cold and grumpy but mostly fine if you slash a tire and have to walk back to the trailhead or something but gently caress up an obstacle bad enough that you're immobilized until someone can come help and that's when it becomes a problem.

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