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K8.0 posted:I've got a friend with an older VW that is killing batteries. It's a piece of poo poo and not worth chasing the issue beyond the BCM refuses to shut down. They could just throw a hood battery cutoff on it, but in cold weather with ice that would suck. I'd like to put a switch on the dash that cuts the 110A fused line that eventually powers the BCM. Is anyone aware of a product that like integrates a big enough relay, a fuse, and a resistor? Just like to keep it simple so all that has to be done is mounting the thing, splicing the relay in, and fishing two wires through the firewall to dash mount any old switch. That kind of amperage is going to require a beefy contactor instead of a relay - and if it fails while you're driving, things could get a little  spicy. Specifically, the alternator relies on a battery being there; if the battery is suddenly disconnected while running, voltage will spike and you run the real risk of frying just about everything electrical in the car.Also, if you leave that contactor on while parked, the coil for it will probably kill the battery at least as fast as the BCM issue.
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Nov 12, 2022 18:03
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STR posted:So I'm gonna come at this assuming your friend absolutely needs an AWD crossover. If they absolutely need AWD, nothing beats Subaru, but budget for a timing belt job (long overdue by age, slightly overdue by mileage) and start setting aside money for head gaskets - the later EJ25s are better about it, but they do pop them occasionally (later models tend to leak coolant from between the head and block instead of burning it or letting it mix with the oil - that's what my Outback was doing). Thanks. This is helpful. The Subaru is a manual, so I think he’s gonna go with that. They want the AWD. We live in Minnesota and they have three teenagers who will be driving the car through the winter, so they feel more confident with an SUV.
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Nov 12, 2022 18:28
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Hypothetically, if one were to drop a small object (a metal/rubber compressed air blowgun tip for example) into one of the water pump ports on a 454 Chevy, and were unable to get it out, how likely would said small object be to cause a catastrophic failure? It would be downstream of the water pump and dense enough to probably just sit at the bottom of the water jacket, so the main issue would be a restriction in flow and possibly a localized hot spot, right? I'm asking for a friend.
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Nov 12, 2022 18:50
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STR posted:That kind of amperage is going to require a beefy contactor instead of a relay - and if it fails while you're driving, things could get a little I mean thanks for the post but all of this is wrong. 100, 150, 200, and probably higher 12v relays are very common, including continuous duty relays. They aren't the little four plug 30-40 amp plug relays you're probably thinking of, typically they have four screw posts and are flange-mounted. Starter relays, running stuff like electric motors (often for hydraulics), lots of applications. Like I said, I don't want to disconnect the battery but the fused 110A line that runs the BCM and the interior in general. If that shut off while the car was running, the car may or may not keep running but it definitely would not cause alternator problems because the alternator would still be hooked to the battery as well as the ECM and a bunch of other stuff which are on their own circuits. The purpose is to switch off something that's already causing an unacceptable parasitic draw. A wired relay on an open switch has a parasitic draw of literally nothing. The circuit the relay is powering is airgapped by the relay, and the circuit that operates the relay is airgapped by the switch on the dash. Yes, if you forgot to turn it off it would just be increasing the parasitic draw, but that's already killing batteries so they have to either learn to use it or get rid of the car.
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Nov 12, 2022 19:13
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Still, killing a 110 amp circuit tells me you're trying to kill the main feed for the car (which sometimes does disconnect the alternator - they often run through the beefy main fuse, and a 110 amp circuit is beefy enough to be the main fuse). You'd be better off just switching the BCM circuit.Brrrmph posted:Thanks. This is helpful. The Subaru is a manual, so I think he’s gonna go with that. MN? Absolutely get the Subaru, budget for a timing belt just in case it hasn't been done yet (assuming it's the 4 cylinder - the 6 uses a timing chain). Take a good look at the front and rear subframes for significant rust. I had an older (2003) Outback, with absolutely ancient tires (pushing 10 years old and not much tread left). I was one of the only people who could get out of my apartment complex when Uri hosed up Texas last February. No traction or stability control on that thing either, it was a base model (only options being AC and automatic). I had absolutely zero issues getting around during that clusterfuck, while everyone else on the road seemed to be working on their ditch finding skills. We don't have plows here, or salt - the roads were compacted snow and ice. For reference, I got my SO's Toyota stuck just backing it out of the garage (soon as the front tires hit the cold poo poo, it stopped moving - couldn't even get it back in the garage, had a couple of neighbors help me shove it into a parking space downhill from me so I could at least get the Subaru into the garage). The only issue I ran into was the steep driveway into my apartment complex - I got mildly stuck trying to get back in a couple of times. Since roads were empty, I wound up just backing up across the street (4 lane road, no center median) and getting a running start. If I didn't have decade old nearly bald tires, I'm sure it would have laughed at that driveway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Nov 12, 2022 |
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Nov 12, 2022 19:34
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K8.0 posted:I mean thanks for the post but all of this is wrong. 100, 150, 200, and probably higher 12v relays are very common, including continuous duty relays. They aren't the little four plug 30-40 amp plug relays you're probably thinking of, typically they have four screw posts and are flange-mounted. Starter relays, running stuff like electric motors (often for hydraulics), lots of applications. My gut tells me that installing and debugging this switch and relay is going to be just as much effort, if not more, than tracking down the parasitic draw and fixing it properly.
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Nov 12, 2022 19:39
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Am I missing something obvious with the IIHS ratings? They seem to give good overall grades for models but when you actually read the individual reports they are kind of whack. Example:
The crosstrek is listed as a "Top Safety Pick" but the analysis shows that the side impact is poo poo (rated as "poor"). And it's even weirder because subcomponents of the side impact evaluation for driver head protection is rated as "acceptable" but the analysis says: quote:Driver head protection Hitting my head on the not-airbag during a crash seems like that part of the evaluation should be rated as less than "acceptable". Some cars get good safety ratings from analysis sites like KBB, Edmunds, etc., but when I check IIHS they seem less than stellar. My two questions are:
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Nov 12, 2022 23:18
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JoshGuitar posted:Hypothetically, if one were to drop a small object (a metal/rubber compressed air blowgun tip for example) into one of the water pump ports on a 454 Chevy, and were unable to get it out, how likely would said small object be to cause a catastrophic failure? It would be downstream of the water pump and dense enough to probably just sit at the bottom of the water jacket, so the main issue would be a restriction in flow and possibly a localized hot spot, right? I'm asking for a friend. Your friend is gonna have a bad time come summer.
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Nov 13, 2022 06:03
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What are the water pump blades made of? If they're cheap and lovely I would think they get damaged by the loose thing first if it's downstream.
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Nov 13, 2022 07:28
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Appreciate some feedback on what to look for with this 94 Hiace I'm going to look at tomorrow arvo (and my process):    Going to look at an old (94') 3L diesel Hiace tomorrow evening after work. It has 375k kms (roughly "middle aged" for a Hiace of that vintage) and no service history, but current owner says it runs great. The kms don't necessarily bother me as Hiaces are known survivors and I regularly see them for sale with 5-600k (plus one outlier that was pushing a million). They're asking AUD4k, which is a pretty decent price these days even with those kms, probably because it's in pretty average cosmetic shape inside and out (looks to be an ex-painter's van) - not appealing for the #vanlife crowd. Doesn't faze me as I'll be using it as a mobile darkroom for doing wet plate collodion in the field, I don't want something I'll be too precious about spilling silver nitrate, etc on. The shelving is a nice bonus in that regard. I'm also only going to own it the next ~8 months before I move abroad, so if I buy it, I'd be planning to leave the timing belt replacement for the next owner. If I can't find a sticker I'd be rolling the dice it was done at 300k and not >10 years ago, I'll guess if I have to make that call I'll base it on the general vibe of the van/seller. I'll probably do a low-level cosmetic tidyup while I have it - sand and repaint the floor/shelving at the end to cover up stains, buy a can of Toyota touch up paint for the exterior and use the polishing wheel on my dremel to address any minor surface rust and bog/sand/repaint if needed so it has a bit more kerb appeal when I go to sell it. I've got a checklist I put together from a couple YT videos from mechanics about how to do a pre-purchase inspection with minimal tools/invasiveness. I'm so far 3/3 on getting very reliable vehicles for pretty cheap using it, but wanted to see if I've missed anything (and I'm also completely clueless about diesels). Before: -bring a towel (makes getting on the ground to look under a bit nicer), a torch, and an inspection mirror along (I broke my inspection mirror so phone camera will have to do) -check under car for stains, leaks, etc. Same undercarriage. -check around for rust (this one does have a few spots of surface rust I can see from the pics) -check tyres for irregular wear (suspension/alignment issues), remaining tread, date codes -give front and rear a good push down and see how they bounce back up (struts) Starting: -key partway turned, make sure CEL comes on (may have been unplugged to hide a problem) -make sure it's a cold start, look for any noticable coloured smoke from tailpipe that might indicate burning oil (blue) or compromised head gasket (white). Diesel might be a bit more sooty than I'm used to? -check all electrics (lights, indicators, wiper, horn) -check radio operation, but leave off for duration of drive (better to hear any weird sounds) -check AC/heater Drive: -clutch bite point in top 1/2 to 3/4 of travel. Not too easy or hard to depress, returns quickly to original position when pressure released, etc. -juddering when slipping the clutch may indicate oil leak/contamination (my old Starlet had this intermittently, maybe once every couple weeks) -start off with window down to better hear any noise. -confirm brakes working, good response. -normal driving - acceleration, turning, braking -shifts up and down throughout the range normally -clutch in, downshift from 3rd to 2nd, let out clutch, make sure revs increase the way you'd expect (if not, indicates clutch may be on the way out) -check CVs (be sure to do a turn in each direction at full lock) -check alignment/braking (hard brake from ~40 kph with hands loosely on wheel, see if it pulls to one side) -check top of oil cap and dipstick after drive. For this car specifically:
Also wondering if a mechanic's pre-purchase inspection would catch much beyond this, or not. Generally the vehicles I've been buying have been cheap beaters and the inspection wasn't really worth doing (so I didn't), but those were with cars that had a known service history. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Nov 13, 2022 |
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Nov 13, 2022 11:18
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Head Bee Guy posted:I'm looking to get a ~12 foot trailer to haul around a churro cart. The load is only about 150 pounds, albeit ten feet long, and it'll be hauled by the glorious Nissan NV200. Any recommended brands? What should I look for in a trailer? this was a few pages ago but the hive mind was stuck on batteries. You probably need to find a single axle farm trailer or landscape trailer with a full gate. However the NV200 only has a tow capacity of 2000 lbs, so you'll need to find the lightest one you can (probably 1500lbs max) . Search for companies in rural areas that specialize in farm or utility trailers and hope you get lucky. Honestly with the length I don't think you'll find much, most single axle trailers I see max out at 10ft, and I can't find a dual axle trailer that's less than 2000lbs. You might have the wrong tow car.
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Nov 13, 2022 13:34
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VelociBacon posted:What are the water pump blades made of? If they're cheap and lovely I would think they get damaged by the loose thing first if it's downstream. Metal (steel I think), but this is downstream of the water pump. It sucks coolant from the lower rad hose and pumps it into 2 ports, 1 on each cylinder bank. I dropped it in one of those ports.
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Nov 13, 2022 14:00
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JoshGuitar posted:Metal (steel I think), but this is downstream of the water pump. It sucks coolant from the lower rad hose and pumps it into 2 ports, 1 on each cylinder bank. I dropped it in one of those ports. Pull the lower rad hose off and drain it. Do not run it with that in there. If you have to pull the water pump, do it. That thing can cause all kinds of holy hell downstream if it gets inside the block.
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Nov 13, 2022 16:42
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Brrrmph posted:Thanks. This is helpful. The Subaru is a manual, so I think he’s gonna go with that. Hello, fellow MN driver here. AWD is cool and good, but if they have the room to store a stack of four tires, absolutely the most impactful money your friend can spend for winter driving would be investing in a set of winter tires. A set of Blizzaks on basic steel wheels will probably be about $1,000. On DiscountTire.com or Tirerack.com you can select the vehicle and it will tell you what size wheels and tires. DiscountTire will have you order them to a store and setup an appointment for install, TireRack will deliver them to your door ready to put on the car.
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Nov 13, 2022 16:59
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PainterofCrap posted:Pull the lower rad hose off and drain it. Do not run it with that in there. If you have to pull the water pump, do it. That thing can cause all kinds of holy hell downstream if it gets inside the block. It's already in the block, and the water pump is out. Basically I had some overheating issues, and the water pump was leaking through the weep hole, so I pulled the pump. The water pump is otherwise fine, impeller looks like new, so I was trying to see if there was a restriction somewhere. That's where the blow gun came in. I should have removed the tip beforehand, but I wasn't thinking. I tried a flexible magnetic pickup tool with no luck... but the metal on the nozzle may be brass. I'm not sure. I'll have to do some more fishing around. Between a claw type pickup tool, some coathanger wire, and a shop vac, SOMETHING has to work.
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Nov 13, 2022 17:10
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JoshGuitar posted:It's already in the block, and the water pump is out. Basically I had some overheating issues, and the water pump was leaking through the weep hole, so I pulled the pump. The water pump is otherwise fine, impeller looks like new, so I was trying to see if there was a restriction somewhere. That's where the blow gun came in. I should have removed the tip beforehand, but I wasn't thinking. I tried a flexible magnetic pickup tool with no luck... but the metal on the nozzle may be brass. I'm not sure. I'll have to do some more fishing around. Between a claw type pickup tool, some coathanger wire, and a shop vac, SOMETHING has to work. I don't know how much money you've got but a borescope would help you track it down. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/mi...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds There are others that you might even be able to hook up to your phone and such but thats the first one that came up in a quick google. You may not like the extra cost involved with getting something like that, but the absolute hassles it might save you could be worth the money. E: Here's another, cheaper one that hooks up to your phone, https://www.amazon.ca/Waterproof-En...3543977023&th=1
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Nov 13, 2022 17:24
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I don't wanna drop the cash for the Milwaukee right now, but for 40ish bucks one of the cell phone scopes, that's the perfect excuse for a new toy. And they even come with screw-on accessories like hooks, that I can drop inside my block to keep the blowgun tip company 
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Nov 13, 2022 18:47
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There ya go. If you aren't even sure where the piece actually is, you can poke around with magnets and claw picker-uppers for a year and not find it. The scope should help.
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Nov 13, 2022 18:56
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JoshGuitar posted:I don't wanna drop the cash for the Milwaukee right now, but for 40ish bucks one of the cell phone scopes, that's the perfect excuse for a new toy. And they even come with screw-on accessories like hooks, that I can drop inside my block to keep the blowgun tip company You can get them even cheaper if you don't mind dealing with it being wired. Mine was $15 like 5 years ago, works great with any laptop or android phone/tablet. Like so: https://smile.amazon.com/Seesi-Endo...aps%2C77&sr=8-3
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Nov 13, 2022 22:43
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Ornery and Hornery posted:Am I missing something obvious with the IIHS ratings? They seem to give good overall grades for models but when you actually read the individual reports they are kind of whack. i will continue my research and update you, my posting comrades, if I find something
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Nov 13, 2022 22:44
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opengl posted:You can get them even cheaper if you don't mind dealing with it being wired. Mine was $15 like 5 years ago, works great with any laptop or android phone/tablet. I clicked on that and got a "Last Purchased March 2021". So yeah, that's the one that replaced the previous one I bought a few years before that that wanted some sketchy sideloaded APK to work. I plugged this one into a windows laptop and it immediately was recognized as a webcam and some default windows app displayed it just fine. Worked great for what I needed to get done.
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Nov 13, 2022 23:01
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Motronic posted:I clicked on that and got a "Last Purchased March 2021". So yeah, that's the one that replaced the previous one I bought a few years before that that wanted some sketchy sideloaded APK to work. I plugged this one into a windows laptop and it immediately was recognized as a webcam and some default windows app displayed it just fine. Worked great for what I needed to get done. Yeah I think I had a similar experience. The app will want a ton of permissions including a VPN which will begin to upload ???data at max transmission speed to an IP overseas. I recommend you don't allow it to do so. OP with the dropped thing in the coolant channel - have you tried getting compressed air in a channel on the other side of the water pump to try to blast it out? If you can 100% confirm that you're pushing from the right direction and not just blowing it deeper into the block.
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Nov 14, 2022 03:34
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VelociBacon posted:OP with the dropped thing in the coolant channel - have you tried getting compressed air in a channel on the other side of the water pump to try to blast it out? If you can 100% confirm that you're pushing from the right direction and not just blowing it deeper into the block. I can try that. I believe I'd have to block off the water pump port on the other cylinder bank and blow compressed air through the upper rad hose - after removing the thermostat. Problem is, just inside that inlet port on the block, there's a vertical drop of a couple inches, so the blowgun tip dropped down to the level of the bottom of the cylinders. I think the path of least resistance for the compressed air would miss the foreign object. I dunno, I think I need to make an MS Paint diagram or some poo poo instead of trying to use my words.
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Nov 14, 2022 12:04
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JoshGuitar posted:I can try that. I believe I'd have to block off the water pump port on the other cylinder bank and blow compressed air through the upper rad hose - after removing the thermostat. Problem is, just inside that inlet port on the block, there's a vertical drop of a couple inches, so the blowgun tip dropped down to the level of the bottom of the cylinders. I think the path of least resistance for the compressed air would miss the foreign object. I dunno, I think I need to make an MS Paint diagram or some poo poo instead of trying to use my words. If that's the case yeah it may not be worth doing. Shops do coolant flushes, maybe they can help (the water they probably flush with might have a better chance of getting the item to move with the current vs air) but you'd have to trailer the vehicle to them etc. E: guessing it's aluminum so you can't put a small magnet on a string.
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Nov 14, 2022 13:25
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Ornery and Hornery posted:IIHS stuff Nobody posted in response to you so you get me posting stupid poo poo. First of all, IIHS isn't a governmental or regulatory body. They're an insurance trade group. Their tests are valid and they generally do good things to advance the state of the collision art, but they're not independent. NHTSA also conducts their own crash tests, results here: https://www.nhtsa.gov/ratings. Methodologies between NHTSA and IIHS vary, so the results are different. IIHS is usually a bit more cutting-edge in terms of inclusion of new test types than NHTSA. Both IIHS and NHTSA periodically revise their respective test regimes, and the test regimes generally become more difficult over time. For instance, in 2012 IIHS introduced a small overlap frontal crash test. The moderate overlap frontal represents a hit on 50% of frontal area of the car. Small overlap represents a hit on 25% of the frontal area. As you can imagine, the small overlap test concentrates a lot more force on fewer components. As a result, pretty much all cars got lousy scores on small overlap. But how do you rate the cars? It's not like the eight generation Honda Accord went from being an extremely safe IIHS Top Safety Pick in 2011 to a wildly unsafe dogshit car in 2012. The car is just as safe as it ever was, the standards just changed. As a result, when IIHS introduces new tests, they do not incorporate the results of the new tests in to Top Safety Pick ratings immediately. In 2021, the side impact test that IIHS conducts was updated to include a higher barrier on the sled, more representative of real world crashes with higher ride height vehicles, and more mass. That's why you'll see a rating for both the original test and the updated side test. Eventually IIHS will just use the results of the new methodology in Top Safety Pick ratings but usually they give a couple years to a) actually test everything, that poo poo's expensive and takes time and b) give the OEMs a chance to redesign cars in response to test results. Would the new side impact results dissuade me from buying a Crosstrek? Probably not if I otherwise liked the vehicle. If comprehensive crash safety was the number one most important thing in the world to me, it might have a bigger impact. At least in my case I regularly drive a car that when new got a "Good" in the IIHS testing regime - which at the time consisted of only a moderate-overlap frontal test. And keep in mind that Crosstrek is still going to be significantly safer than pretty much anything five years old or older, and it will be massively safer than anything before roughly 2010-2012.
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Nov 14, 2022 13:54
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It's the tip on the lower left corner of this image. Different brand, but same basic setup. All the similar tips I'm seeing online look like brass, so yeah a magnet probably won't help me much. I'll have my new toy later today, so we'll see where that gets me.
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Nov 14, 2022 14:00
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Hello AI. I got a letter in the mail yesterday from the local Ford dealer where I've taken my 2015 focus in for some regular maintenance/oil changes. The letter was basically "we want to acquire your 2015 ford focus." While I was not in the market for a new vehicle, this letter has piqued my interest enough to seek more information. Is getting a letter like this just a marketing ploy, or is there actually a significant benefit to trading in car right now? I bought the car used from a different Ford dealer a few states away ~4 years ago with around 28k miles on it and it currently has just over 35k miles. While I have a few specific beefs with the 2015 focus (acceleration has always been shuddery, I sometimes find myself in a bind trying to move stuff that requires a ton of effort to make work with the car, we think we would enjoy some more premium features like heated seats/auto trunk thing) it does the majority of what we need with no issue. That being said, I know that my current vehicle is something I'd probably like to move on from in the next 2 or 3 years, and if there is a window of opportunity for a good deal right now, I'm in a position where I could swing it financially. If anyone has gotten a similar letter and could share their experience, I'd appreciate it!
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Nov 14, 2022 16:08
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Bann posted:Hello AI. I got a letter in the mail yesterday from the local Ford dealer where I've taken my 2015 focus in for some regular maintenance/oil changes. The letter was basically "we want to acquire your 2015 ford focus." While I was not in the market for a new vehicle, this letter has piqued my interest enough to seek more information. Is getting a letter like this just a marketing ploy, or is there actually a significant benefit to trading in car right now? This is a standard marketing ploy. They are not in desperate need of your 7 year old car. They want to sell you a new car while screwing you on the trade in value of your old car.
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Nov 14, 2022 16:12
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As mentioned this is a bog-standard marketing thing dealerships the country over will do. It is on the level of the spam calls people get for their 'car's warranty about to be expired' and can be treated as such. There is no good that can come from taking that thing seriously.
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Nov 14, 2022 16:16
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Ah, that makes sense. I've never gotten anything like this before and feel like I've read some stories about used cars being scarce lately, which led me to think "hmm.... maybe this is a thing?" Thanks for the quick reality check!
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Nov 14, 2022 16:23
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The time to sell that car was 6 months ago when carvana was still loving Around with their algorithm games, not now, when they have Found Out with them.
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Nov 14, 2022 18:55
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KakerMix posted:As mentioned this is a bog-standard marketing thing dealerships the country over will do. It is on the level of the spam calls people get for their 'car's warranty about to be expired' and can be treated as such. poo poo, a few years ago I got one of these for a car I got rid of in 2006.
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Nov 14, 2022 20:14
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Bann posted:Hello AI. I got a letter in the mail yesterday from the local Ford dealer where I've taken my 2015 focus in for some regular maintenance/oil changes. The letter was basically "we want to acquire your 2015 ford focus." While I was not in the market for a new vehicle, this letter has piqued my interest enough to seek more information. Is getting a letter like this just a marketing ploy, or is there actually a significant benefit to trading in car right now? Never a bad time to get rid of a Focus/Fiesta with their lovely dual-clutch automatic. It’s so bad, there was a class action and you may actually be able to get some compensation. Such a shame, too. I love the small Fords with the exception of the terrible automatics.
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Nov 14, 2022 20:53
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Appreciate some feedback on what to look for with this 94 Hiace I'm going to look at tomorrow arvo (and my process): So had a look at it; body not as bad as I thought (no rust under floor mats in back), but no sign of a timing belt change since 1999 at 100k (logbook ends at 117k)  Had asked to do a cold start but on feeling the engine before the test drive was clearly warm. Bit of a red flag but guy did have a washing machine in there he said he'd had to go pick up on short notice, so semi-giving him the benefit of the doubt. Wouldn't buy without seeing an actual cold start though. Somewhat leaky valve cover gasket but whatever, cheap van and not expecting perfection. The CEL did not light up when the key was half-turned, which was another red flag (I do not have a code reader, think it'd be ODB-1 anyways?). The T-belt light doesn't come on after it starts up but I understand that's not hard to reset on one's own so I'd consider it worthless as an indicator, especially given the non-op CEL. Guy had no understanding of the glow plugs or what the light meant, so I assume it's been started with the glow plug light on for the last 6 months (how long he's had it), not sure how bad that is. Drove, turned, and stopped well. Two newish tyres, 1 from 2004, another I couldn't readily find a date code on. Clutch felt plenty meaty but it required a fair bit of effort to go between gears 1-4. No unusual noises like whines or grinds when shifting though - would that still be syncros? Or just a sign of old gearbox oil? It feels like the shifter may have been shortened an inch or two, was a fair bit lower than I'd expect, but I haven't driven a Hiace in yonks. I don't think that alone would account for the difficulty though. tl;dr: -Need to budget for a timing belt, google tells me 800-1600 dollars. I could stomach that if it didn't need anything else major. -At least 2 new tyres -Gearbox issue (shifts with some difficulty, no weird noises or grinding that I could notice) - not sure if that means "new syncros" or maybe just "new gearbox oil"?
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Nov 14, 2022 20:54
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Strange issue on a 1UZ V8 in my collection, It was running just fine, I was starting it occasionally to move the car in and out of the garage, light engine loads only. Now it's got a crank-barely-start, runs rough as gently caress, I checked fuel, timing, ignition, etc all good, checked compression today, and we got 175psi on cylinders 1,2,4,7 0psi on cylinders 3,5,6,8 There's no other tell-tale signs of damage, I stuck a camera down all the cylinders and they all look clean AF, they look good as new. I wasn't able to see the valves with the camera. No water coming out where it shouldn't. No signs of exhaust in the coolant when it was running. Plugs are wet/black, kinda expected. I've verified timing many many times. I just took a valve cover off and stuck a stick in the spark plug hole to verify that the valves are closed on the compresison stroke. The weird thing is that 1. This came out of nowhere, it just went from "all fine" to "im hosed" 2. The 0psi cylinders have no compression at all. Nothing. I can stick my thumb in the spark plug hole and crank the car and feel nothing at all. This points to: 1. Rings? They all look good. No signs of oil/fuel mixing, there used to be small amounts of blue smoke on startup, I figured it was stem seals. Rings wouldn't drop from good to nothing on 4 cylinders at once? 2. Head gasket. On both banks at the same time? With no signs of anything mixing? 3. Valves / Valve seats - valve stuck open? This is a non-interference engine. I can see the shim/bucket returning on each valve, so I imagine the valves are closing? How do 4 valves all poo poo themselves at the same time? Again, there is no compression at all, if a valve is leaking, it's a really big leak. I've stuck some new head gaskets and bolts on my next Japan order, I figure the heads are coming off regardless. My next stage, I guess, is to put compressed air in the spark plug hole and see where it comes out. I'm away from home for the next few weeks and am thoroughly confused. Any ideas?
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Nov 14, 2022 22:32
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Yeah, you need to do a leak down test on the suspect cylinders. Most important is to figure out where the compression is going.....intake, exhaust, oil pan, cooling system are pretty much your options. This reads like a broken or jumped timing chain. I know you said you checked.
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Nov 14, 2022 22:38
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Given that it happened rather suddenly I'm going to guess first at electronics, probably the ECU. Maybe a connector came lose or a wire broke. Something like that.
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Nov 14, 2022 22:41
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Leakdown. It's belt driven. Pull the valve covers. Crank it over. Look for broken cams and fragged lobes.
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Nov 14, 2022 22:43
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Deteriorata posted:Given that it happened rather suddenly I'm going to guess first at electronics, probably the ECU. Maybe a connector came lose or a wire broke. Something like that. How would an electronic issue cause a complete loss of compression? 0 psi.
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Nov 14, 2022 22:54
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I have a 2018 Mazda 6 Grand Touring Reserve with 24,000 miles on it. Every now and then, about 2x a week, when I crank the car the start/stop button flashes amber. If I turn the car off and re-crank it, it does not flash anymore. The car cranks, runs, and drives normally. The only information in the book says to have the dealer inspect it. I cannot find any consistent method to make it happen, so I don't really trust them to diagnose an intermittent thing like that. Any suggestions other than take it to them the next time I crank it and it happens?
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Nov 14, 2022 22:59
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